The route from Montreal may be chosen from three: The North Shore
Railway, the Grand Trunk Railway, and the Richelieu & Ontario Steamship
Line _via_ the St. Lawrence. The latter is a favorite, and unless the
tourist is surfeited with steamboat riding, will be the one generally
chosen. It is a night trip, and therefore less wearisome than a ride by
rail, as the comfortable state rooms of the boat are preferable to the
berths of a sleeping-car.
Leaving Montreal at early evening, passing the fort on the island
directly against the city, and onward past the mouth of the Ottawa River
below the city, the first stop is at the town of Sorel, or William
Henry, at the confluence of Sorel or Richelieu River, forty-five miles
from Montreal. Five miles farther on, the river expands into a lake
about twenty-five miles in length by nine in width, and known as Lake
St. Peter. Next we come to the ancient city of Three Rivers, taking its
name from the fact that the St. Maurice River, which here flows into the
St. Lawrence, is divided by islands into three channels.
[Illustration: CITY OF QUEBEC, FROM THE RIVER.]
The view of Quebec, as approached from the river, is singularly
impressive. Unlike any other city on the American continent, its
situation and surroundings make it an object of striking interest. The
fortifications, with their towers and battlements, frown upon you from
the Plains of Abraham and from the lower town, and there surrounds the
place an air of mediævalism at once novel and attractive.
It is one of the oldest cities in America, as well as one of the most
interesting. It was founded in 1608, and its history is replete with
events of tremendous importance. The scene of many a battle and of
untold carnage, the crowning event of all was the memorable engagement
which transferred half a continent from France to Britain, and
immortalized the names of both commanders, the victor and the
vanquished.
[Illustration: CITY AND HARBOR -OF- QUEBEC, FROM THE CITADEL.]
The city consists of two divisions, known as the upper and the lower
town. The upper town includes within its limits the Citadel of Cape
Diamond, which covers the entire summit of the promontory, embracing an
area of more than forty acres. It rises to the height of 345 feet above
the river, and from its commanding position and the strength of the
fortification, has been not inaptly entitled the “Gibraltar of America.”
The shape of the city is triangular, the St. Lawrence and St. Charles
rivers forming the two sides, with the Plains of Abraham for the base.
The river fronts are defended by a continuous wall on the very brow of
the cliff, with flanking towers and bastions, loopholed for musketry and
pierced for cannon. On the west side, a heavy triple wall, with trenches
between, formerly guarded that approach, but much of it is now
demolished. Between the old town and the outside world, the wall was
formerly pierced with frowning gateways, five in number; but these have
been gradually demolished, in response to the increasing demand for more
free communication, and on the occasion of the writer’s last visit to
the city, the old Saint John’s gate was being entirely removed. We
present views of these gateways, from which the fortified aspect of the
town before their demolition may be readily inferred.
[Illustration: CAPE DIAMOND.]
The nationality of the inhabitants is strongly French, and the visitor
from the States can easily fancy himself in a city in France, so
decidedly un-American are all his surroundings. The quaint houses, the
steep and tortuous streets, especially of the oldest portions of the
city, and the almost universal use of the French language in the
ordinary channels of trade, require no stretch of the imagination to
practically transport one to the old world, and give a glimpse, as it
were, of a foreign country.
[Illustration: WOLFE’S OLD MONUMENT.]
[Illustration: WOLFE’S NEW MONUMENT.]
The view from the Citadel, on account of its elevation, is surpassingly
grand and comprehensive. The majestic St. Lawrence, alive with sailing
craft of every size and kind, stretches before the vision in both
directions, seeming like a band of glistening metal, beautifying the
scene and giving animation to the picture. Directly below lie the
crooked streets of the lower town, teeming with animation, while its
busy population so far beneath, seem like pigmies, and you look upon the
glistening roofs of the houses and down the very throats of the
chimneys, into which it would seem an easy matter to toss a pebble.
Looking to the westward, the Plains of Abraham are spread out before
you, together with the bluffs scaled by Wolfe and his brave soldiers in
the preparation for the assault that ended in a victory, but cost the
lives of both commanders. The spot where Wolfe fell is marked by a
handsome monument. It was erected in 1849, but is still called the “new
monument” in distinction from the simple monolith which previously
occupied its site, an illustration of which is given on the preceding
page. The new monument bears the simple but eloquent inscription, “Here
died Wolfe, victorious.” Directly across the river is the settlement of
Point Levi, and down the stream the beautiful Isle of Orleans may be
seen. This pleasant resort may be reached by ferry from the city, and it
affords delightful drives, giving views of the Falls of Montmorenci, the
Laurentian Mountains, and other objects of interest.
Chaudiere Falls, nine miles above Quebec, on the river of the same name,
are 130 feet high and 400 feet wide. The Falls and Indian village of
Lorette, seven miles from Quebec, are points to which excursions may be
profitably made, either by carriage or the North Shore Railway.
Other points of interest in and about Quebec demand at least a brief
mention. The Dufferin Terrace, which will be included in the visit to
the Plains of Abraham, as will also the Governor’s Garden, where the
monument to Wolfe and Montcalm will be seen; the French Cathedral; the
Laval Seminary, in the chapel of which are some very fine paintings; the
English Cathedral, near by; the Ursuline Convent; the public buildings
in the lower town, and others which the driver will point out to you,
are of sufficient interest to enliven a visit of several days duration,
or they may be hurriedly inspected in a “flying trip.”
[Illustration: PALACE GATE, QUEBEC.]
[Illustration: ST. LOUIS GATE, QUEBEC.]
[Illustration: FRENCH CANADIAN HOME.]