VISIT TO PENSACOLA—DISCOVERY OF MONUMENTS—SEARCH FOR
OTHERS—SUCCESS—DEPARTURE FOR “EL ZAPATERO”—LA CARLOTA—LOS
CORALES—ISLA DE LA SANTA ROSA—A NIGHT VOYAGE—ARRIVAL AT
ZAPATERO—SEARCH FOR MONUMENTS—FALSE ALARM—DISCOVERY OF
STATUES—INDIANS FROM OMETEPEC—A STRONG FORCE—FURTHER
INVESTIGATIONS—MAD DANCE—EXTINCT CRATER AND VOLCANIC LAKE—STONE OF
SACRIFICE—EL CANON—DESCRIPTION OF MONUMENTS, AND THEIR PROBABLE
ORIGIN—LIFE ON THE ISLAND.
Dec. 2, 1849.—This afternoon we prevailed upon Pedro—who, with his six
stout sailors, had been drunk for a week, but were now sober and anxious
to lay in a new supply of reals for another debauch—to take us over to
the little island of Pensacola, almost within cannon-shot of the old
castle of Granada. A young fellow, whilom a sailor, but now in the Dr.’s
service, on half-pay, as honorary man of all-work, averred that upon
this island were “_piedras antiguas_” of great size, but nearly buried
in the earth. It seemed strange that in all our inquiries concerning
antiquities, of the padres and licenciados, indeed of the “best
informed” citizens of Granada, we had not heard of the existence of
these monuments. The Dr. was not a little skeptical, but experience had
taught me that more information, upon these matters, was to be gathered
from the bare-footed _mozos_ than from the black-robed priests, and I
was obstinate in my determination to visit Pensacola.
It was late when we started, but in less than an hour we leaped ashore
upon the island. It is one of the “out-liers” of the labyrinth of small
islands which internal fires long ago thrust up from the depths of the
lake, around the base of the volcano of Momobacho; and its shores are
lined with immense rocks, black and blistered by the heat which
accompanied the ancient disruptions of which they are the evidences. In
some places they are piled up in rough and frowning heaps, half shrouded
by the luxuriant vines which nature trails over them, as if to disguise
her own deformities. In the island of Pensacola these rocks constitute a
semi-circular ridge, nearly enclosing a level space of rich soil,—a kind
of amphitheatre, looking towards the west, the prospect extending beyond
the beach of Granada to the ragged hills and volcanic peaks around the
lake of Managua. Upon a little elevation, within this natural temple,
stood an abandoned cane hut, almost hidden by a forest of luxuriant
plantains, which covered the entire area with a dense shadow, here and
there pierced by a ray of sunlight, falling like molten gold through
narrow openings in the leafy roof.
No sooner had we landed, than our men dispersed themselves in search of
the monuments, and we followed. We were not long kept in suspense; a
shout of “_aqui, aqui!_” “here, here,” from the Dr.’s man, announced
that they were found. We hurried to his side. He was right; we could
distinctly make out two great blocks of stone, nearly hidden in the
soil. The parts exposed, though frayed by storms, and having clearly
suffered from violence, nevertheless bore evidences of having been
elaborately sculptured. A demand was made for the machetes of the men;
and we were not long in removing enough of the earth to discover that
the supposed blocks were large and well-proportioned statues, of
superior workmanship and of larger size than any which we had yet
encountered. The discovery was an exciting one, and the Indian sailors
were scarcely less interested than ourselves. They crouched around the
figures, and speculated earnestly concerning their origin. They finally
seemed to agree that the larger of the two was no other than
“Montezuma.” It is a singular fact that the name and fame of the last of
the Aztec emperors is cherished by all the Indian remnants from the
banks of the Gila to the shores of Lake Nicaragua. Like the Pecos of New
Mexico, some of the Indians of Nicaragua still indulge the belief that
Montezuma will some day return, and reëstablish his ancient empire.
I was convinced that there were other monuments here, but the sun was
going down, and having resolved to return the next day, I gave up the
search,—not, however, without engaging Pedro to be ready, with men and
tools, to return at sunrise the next morning.
Pedro, for a miracle, was true to his word (probably because he had no
money wherewith to get drunk); and the dew was fresh on the leaves, the
parrots chattered vociferously, and the waves toyed cheerfully with the
black basaltic rocks, as we leaped ashore a second time on Pensacola.
The boat was moored, coffee speedily made and despatched, and then
Pedro’s crew stripped themselves naked, and made other formidable
preparations for disinterring the idols. But the preparations were more
formidable than the execution. They commenced very well, but long before
the figures were exposed to view, they were all smitten with a desire to
hunt up others,—a plausible pretext for skulking away and stretching
themselves on the ground beneath the plantains. I was at one time left
wholly alone; even Pedro had disappeared; but the rascals came tumbling
together again when I proclaimed that the “_aguardiente_” was
circulating. By dint of alternate persuasions and threats, we finally
succeeded in getting the smaller of the two figures completely
uncovered. It had evidently been purposely buried, for one of the arms
had been broken in its fall into the pit which had been previously dug
to receive it, and the face had been bruised and mutilated. In this way
the early Catholic zealots had endeavored to destroy the superstitious
attachment of the aborigines to their monuments. It was, however,
satisfactory to reflect that the figures were probably, on the whole,
better preserved by their long interment than if they had been suffered
to remain above ground. The next difficulty was to raise the prostrate
figure; but after much preparation, propping, lifting, and vociferation,
we succeeded in standing it up against the side of the hole which we had
dug, in such a position that my artist could proceed with his sketch. It
represented a human male figure, of massive proportions, seated upon a
square pedestal, its head slightly bent forward, and its hands resting
on its thighs, as represented in the accompanying PLATE, NO. 1. Above
the face rose a heavy and monstrous representation of the head of an
animal, below which could be traced the folds of a serpent, the fierce
head of which was sculptured, open-mouthed and with life-like accuracy,
by the side of the face of the figure. The whole combination was
elaborate and striking.
The stone from which the figure here described was cut, is a hard
sandstone, of a reddish color; but the sculpture is bold, and the limbs,
unlike those of the monoliths of Copan, are detached so far as could be
done with safety, and are cut with a freedom which I have observed in no
other statuary works of the American aborigines.
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[Illustration: IDOL AT PENSACOLA.—No. 1.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
To enable M. to make a drawing of the monument just disclosed, and to
relieve him from the annoyance of our men, I deferred proceeding with
the exhumation of the remaining one until he had finished, and therefore
summoned all hands to search the island for others,—stimulating their
activity by the splendid offer of a reward of four reals (equivalent to
two days’ wages) to any one who should make a discovery. I also joined
in the search, but after wandering all over the little island, I came to
the conclusion that, if there were others, of which I had little doubt,
they had been successfully buried, and were past finding out, or else
had been broken up and removed. So I seated myself philosophically upon
a rock, and watched an army of black ants, which were defiling past, as
if making a tour of the island. They formed a solid column from five to
six inches wide, and marched straight on, turning neither to the right
hand nor to the left, pertinaciously surmounting every obstacle which
interposed. I watched them for more than half an hour, but their number
seemed undiminished; thousands upon thousands hurried past, until
finally, attracted by curiosity, I rose and followed the line, in order
to discover the destination of the procession,—if it were an invasion, a
migration, or a simple pleasure excursion. At a short distance, and
under the cover of some bushes, the column mounted what appeared to be
simply a large, round stone, passed over it, and continued its march.
The stone attracted my attention, and on observing it more closely, I
perceived traces of sculpture. I summoned my men, and after a two hours’
trial of patience and temper, I succeeded in raising from its bed of
centuries another idol of massive proportions, but differing entirely
from the others, and possessing an extraordinary and forbidding aspect.
(See Fig. No. 2.) The lower half had been broken off, and could not be
found; what remained was simply the bust and head. The latter was
disproportionately great; the eyes were large, round, and staring; the
ears broad and long; and from the widely-distended mouth, the lower jaw
of which was forced down by the hands of the figure, projected a tongue
which reached to the breast, giving to the whole an unnatural and
horrible expression. As it stood in the pit, with its monstrous head
rising above the ground, with its fixed stony gaze, it seemed like some
gray monster just emerging from the depths of the earth, at the bidding
of the wizard-priest of an unholy religion. My men stood back, and more
than one crossed himself as he muttered to his neighbor, “_es el
diablo!_” “it is the devil!” I readily comprehended the awe with which
it might be regarded by the devotees of the ancient religion, when the
bloody priest daubed the lapping tongue with the yet palpitating hearts
of his human victims!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: IDOL AT PENSACOLA.—No. 2.]
[Illustration: IDOL AT PENSACOLA.—No. 3.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
It was long past noon before we commenced the task of raising the
largest and by far the most interesting idol to an erect position. This
was no easy undertaking. The stone, although not more than nine feet
high, measured ten feet in circumference, and was of great weight. We
were but eleven men all told; Pedro said it was useless to try, we might
turn it over, but nothing more. Still I was determined it should be
raised, not only for the purpose of observing its effect in that
position, but because I was convinced that the under side must exhibit
more clearly the finer details of the sculpture than the upper, which
had been partially exposed above the ground. I gave each man a
prodigious dram of _aguardiente_, which inspired corresponding courage,
and after procuring an additional number of stout levers and props, we
proceeded to raise the recumbent mass. Our progress was slow and
difficult, the sweat rolled in streams down the glossy skins of our
sailors, who—thanks to the ardiente—worked with more vigor than I
thought them capable of exerting. The aguardiente was worth more than
gold to me that day. The men shouted and cheered, and cried, “_arriba
con la niña!_” “up with the baby!” But before we got it half raised, a
thunder-storm, the approach of which had escaped our notice in the
excitement, came upon us, as only a tropical thunder-storm knows how to
come. I beat a retreat, dripping with perspiration, into the deserted
hut: while the men sat coolly down and took the pelting,—they were used
to it! The storm passed in due time, but the ground was saturated, and
the feet sank deeply in the soft, sticky mass around the “niña.” Still,
in order to save another visit in force the next day, I determined not
to relinquish the task we had begun. But the difficulties were now
augmented, and it was only after the most extraordinary exertions, at
imminent danger of crushed limbs, that we succeeded in our object. With
bleeding hands, and completely bedaubed with mud, I had at last the
satisfaction to lead off in a “_Viva por la niña antigua!_”—“Hurrah for
the old baby!” I am not quite sure but I took a drop of the aguardiente
myself, while the shower was passing. Pedro and his crew responded by a
“_Vivan los Americanos del Norte!_” which, being interpreted, meant that
they “wouldn’t object to another drink.” This was given of course,
whereupon Pedro insinuated that “_Los Americanos son diablos!_”—“The
Americans are devils;” which remark, however, Pedro meant as a
compliment. The figure, when erect, was truly grand. It represented a
man with massive limbs, and broad, prominent chest, in a stooping or
rather crouching posture, his hands resting on his thighs, just above
the knees. (See Fig. No. 3.) Above his head rose the monstrous head and
jaws of some animal; its fore paws were placed one upon each shoulder,
and the hind ones upon the hands of the statue, as if binding them to
the thighs. It might be intended, it probably was intended, to represent
an alligator or some mythological or fabulous animal. Its back was
covered with carved plates, like rough mail. The whole rose from a
broad, square pedestal. The carving, as in the other figure, was bold
and free. I never have seen a statue which conveyed so forcibly the idea
of power and strength; it was a study for a Samson under the gates of
Gaza, or an Atlas supporting the world. The face was mutilated and
disfigured, but it still seemed to wear an expression of sternness, if
not severity, which added greatly to the effect of the whole. The finer
details of workmanship around the head had suffered much; and from the
more decided marks of violence which the entire statue exhibits, it
seems probable that it was an especial object of regard to the
aborigines, and of corresponding hate to the early Christian zealots.
The sun came out brightly after the rain, and although wet and weary,
and not insensible to the comforts of dry clothes and the seductions of
a hammock, I could hardly tear myself away from these remarkable
monuments—overturned perhaps by the hands of Gil Gonzalez himself, at
the time when, in the language of the chronicler, “the great cazique
Nicaragua consented to be baptized, together with nine thousand of his
subjects, and thus the country became converted.” “The great idols in
his sumptuous temples,” continues the historian, “were thrown down, and
the cross set up in their stead.” The same authority assures us that
“Nicaragua was a chief of great good wit, and though the Spanish captain
was a discreet man, it puzzled him much to explain to Nicaragua why it
was that so few men as the Spaniards coveted so much gold.”
M. returned the next day and completed his drawings, while I busied
myself in preparing for a voyage to the great uninhabited island of
Zapatero.
[Illustration: THE BONGO “LA CARLOTA.”]
The T.’s had volunteered one of their _bongos_, one of the largest and
most comfortable on the lake; and as most of this kind of unique craft
are only gigantic canoes, hollowed from a single trunk of the cebia, and
quite as well fitted, and just as much disposed, to sail upon their
sides or bottom up as any other way, it was a gratification to know that
“La Carlota” had been built with something of a keel, by a foreign
shipwright, and that the prospect of being upset in the first blow was
thereby diminished from three chances in four, to one in two. The
voyager who has sailed on the restless lake of Nicaragua in gusty
weather, with bungling sailors, can well comprehend the satisfaction
with which we contemplated “La Carlota,” as she rocked gracefully at her
moorings, off the old castle on the shore. She was perhaps sixty feet
long, and her _chopa_ was capable of accommodating four or five persons
with lodgings,—something in the pickled mackerel order, it is true, but
not uncomfortably, in the moderated views of comfort which the traveller
in Central America soon comes to entertain. In front of the _chopa_ were
ten benches, for as many oarsmen, and places for setting up the masts,
in case the winds should permit of their use. “La Carlota,” withal, was
painted on the outside, and had a figure head; indeed, take her all in
all, she looked a frigate among the numerous strange pit-pans, piraguas,
and other anomalous and nameless water-craft around her. Thus far all
was well. The next thing was to get a crew together; but this devolved
upon the junior Mr. T. After two days of exertion, for there was a great
conjunction of _fiestas_ at the time, they were enlisted and duly
paid,—everybody expects pay in advance in Central America! A fixed
number of reals were counted out for the commissary department, and the
patron, Juan, solemnly promised to be ready to set sail the next morning
at sunrise for the island of _Zapatero_, the “Shoemaker,” where Manuel,
who was to go along as a guide, assured us there were many _frailes_,
friars, some kneeling, others sitting, and still others standing erect,
or reclining as if in death, besides many other wonderful and curious
things, among which was a deep salt lake.
The Dr. and myself completed our arrangements over night. After
breakfast the next morning, which had been fixed for our departure, I
proposed to go down to the lake, supposing that as Juan had promised to
be ready by sunrise, we might possibly succeed in getting off by nine or
ten o’clock at the furthest. The Dr., however, protested that it was
useless to go down so early,—“he was not going to broil in the sun, on
the open beach, all the forenoon, not he;” and he comforted us with the
assurance that he had lived in the country ten years, and that if we got
off before the middle of the afternoon, we might perform any surgical
operation we pleased upon either one of his legs! My time was limited,
and these vexatious delays almost worried me into a fever. At eleven
o’clock, however, I prevailed upon the Dr., much against his will, and
amidst his earnest protestations that he “knew the people, and that it
was no kind of use,” to go down to the shore. There swung our bongo,
precisely as we had left it the day before, and not a soul on board! The
shore was covered with groups of half-naked women, seated just at the
edge of the water, engaged in an operation here called _washing_, which
consisted in dipping the articles in the water, and placing them on a
rough stone, and beating them violently with a club, to the utter
demolition of everything in the shape of buttons! Groups of children
were paddling in little pools, or playing in the sand; sailors just
arrived were landing their cargoes, carrying the bales on their
shoulders through the breakers, and depositing them in creaking carts;
here and there a horseman pranced along under the shadow of the trees on
the shore; and amongst all, imperturbable buzzards in black, and
long-legged cranes in white, walked about with prescriptive freedom!
Altogether it was a singular mixture of civilized and savage life, and
one not likely to be forgotten by the observant traveller.
I was, however, in no mood to enjoy the scene,—and the Dr.’s “I told you
so!” as he quietly seated himself on a log in the shade, was cruelly
provoking. After diligent search, we found two of our crew, with only a
cloth wrapped around their loins, lying flat on the sands, their faces
covered with their sombreros, and the hot sun beating down upon their
naked bodies,—perfect pictures of the intensest laziness. “Where is the
patron?” They simply lifted their hats, and responded, “Quien sabe?”
“Who knows?” The eternal “Quien sabe,” and uttered without so much as an
attempt to rise! This was unendurable; I gave them each an emphatic kick
in the ribs with my rough travelling boots, which brought them to their
feet in an instant, with a deprecatory exclamation of “_Señor!_” One was
despatched to hunt up the others among the pulperias of the town, with
emphatic threats of great bodily harm, if the delinquents were not
produced within a given time. The second one, a strapping Mestizo, who
still rubbed his side with a lugubrious expression of face, was ordered
to deposit himself within short range of my formidable-looking “Colt,”
with an injunction not to move unless ordered. Directly, another
recreant was discovered, doing the agreeable to a plump coffee-colored
washing-girl,—nothing chary of her charms, as may be inferred from the
fact that excepting a cloth, none of the largest, thrown over her lap,
she was _au naturel_. He too was ordered to take up his position beside
the other prisoner, which he did with a bad grace, but greatly to the
pretended satisfaction of the coffee-colored girl, who said that he was
“_malo_,” bad, and deserved all sorts of ill. “A woman is naturally a
coquette, whether in a white skin or black,” philosophized the Dr.;
“that yellow thing don’t mean what she says. I’ll wager they have just
agreed to get married, or what is the same thing in these countries.”
It was high noon long before we got our vagrant crew under our
batteries; and conscious of their delinquencies, and not a little in awe
of our pistol butts, they really exerted themselves in getting the boat
ready. Half a dozen naked fellows plunged into the surf, their black
bodies alternately appearing and disappearing in the waves, and towed
the “Carlota” close in shore, under the lee of the old castle. The
sails, our provisions, blankets, etc., were placed on board, and then we
mounted on the shoulders of the strongest, and were duly deposited on
the quarter-deck. The bells of the city chimed two o’clock, as we swept
outside of the fort into the rough water. It was all the men could do to
overcome the swell, and the sweeps bent under their vigorous strokes.
Once in deep water, the waves were less violent, but they had the long,
majestic roll of the ocean. Here every oarsman pulled off his breeches,
his only garment, deposited his sombrero in the bottom of the boat, and
lighted a cigar; they were now in full uniform, and pulled sturdily at
the oars. Juan, the patron, drew off his breeches also, but, by way of
maintaining the dignity of the quarter-deck, or out of respect to his
passengers, he kept on his shirt, a flaming red check, and none of the
longest, which, as he bestrode the tiller, fluttered famously in the
wind.
One hour’s hard pulling, and we were among the islands. Here the water
was still and glassy, while the waves dashed and chafed with a sullen
roar against the iron shores of the outer rank, as if anxious to invade
the quiet of the inner recesses,—those narrow, verdure-arched channels,
broad, crystal-floored vistas, and cool, shady nooks in which graceful
canoes were here and there moored.
Perhaps a more singular group of islets cannot be found in the wide
world. As I have before said, they are all of volcanic origin, generally
conical in shape, and seldom exceeding three or four acres in area. All
are covered with a cloak of verdure, but nature is not always successful
in hiding the black rocks which start out in places, as if in disdain of
all concealment, and look frowningly down on the clear water, giving an
air of wildness to the otherwise soft and quiet scenery of the islands.
Trailing over these rocks, and dropping in festoons from the overhanging
trees, their long pliant tendrils floating in the waves, are innumerable
vines, with bright and fragrant flowers of red and yellow, mingled with
the inverted cone of the “gloria de Nicaragua,” with its overpowering
odor, with strange and nameless fruits, forming an evergreen roof, so
close that even a tropical sun cannot penetrate. Many of these islands
have patches of cultivated ground, and on such, generally crowning their
summits, relieved by a dense green background of plantains, and
surrounded by kingly palms, and the papaya with its golden fruit, are
the picturesque cane huts of the inhabitants. Groups of naked, swarthy
children in front,—a winding path leading beneath the great trees down
to the water’s edge,—an arbor-like, miniature harbor, with a canoe
lashed to the shore,—a woman naked to the waist, with a purple skirt of
true Tyrian dye, for the famous murex is found on the Pacific shores of
Nicaragua, her long, black, glossy hair falling over neck and breast,
and reaching almost to her knees,—a flock of noisy parrots in a
congressional squabble among the trees,—a swarm of parroquets scarcely
less noisy,—a pair of vociferating macaws like floating fragments of a
rainbow in the air,—inquisitive monkeys hanging among the vines,—active
iguanas scrambling up the banks,—long-necked and long-legged cranes in
deep soliloquy at the edge of the water, their white bodies standing out
in strong relief against a background of rock and verdure,—a canoe
glancing rapidly and noiselessly across a vista of water,—all this, with
a golden sky above, the purple sides of the volcano of Momobacho
overshadowing us, and the distant shores of Chontales molten in the
slanting sunlight,—these were some of the elements of the scenery of the
islands,—elements constantly shifting, and forming new and pleasing
combinations. Seated upon the roof of the chopa, I forgot in
contemplating the changing scenery the annoyances of the morning, and
felt almost disposed to ask the pardon of the marineros whom I had
treated so unceremoniously.
Our men, for we were now in the cool shadow of the mountain, pulled
bravely at the oars, chanting a song which seems to be eminently popular
amongst all classes of the people. I could not catch the whole of it,
but it commenced
“Memorias dolorosas
De mi traidor amante,
Huye de mi un instante
Haced lo por piedad.”
At the end of each stanza they gave a sharp pull at the sweeps, and
shouted “_hoo-pah!_”—a freak which seemed to entertain them highly,
although we “couldn’t exactly see the point of it.” It was nearly sunset
when we arrived at Manuel’s islands; for though Manuel went with us as a
guide, at the rate of three reals per day, he had, nevertheless, a house
in town, not to mention a couple of islands, upon one of which was his
country-seat, and upon the other his plantain walk and fruitery. His
country-seat consisted of a cane hut; but he proudly pointed out to us a
heap of new tiles and a pile of poles, and said he meant one day to have
a _palacio_ on Santa Rosa, for so he called his island. I did not envy
him his prospective palace, but Santa Rosa was a gem. Its outer shore,
fronting the turbulent water, was lined with immense rocks, within which
was a barrier of large trees, draped over with vines, and completely
sheltering Manuel’s hut from the winds and storms of the lake. Upon the
inner side was a little, crescent-shaped harbor, in which our bongo
rocked lazily to and fro. A couple of tall cocoa trees, a cluster of
sugar-canes, and a few broad-leaved plants at the water’s edge, gave a
tropical aspect to the islet, which looked to me, in the subdued
half-light of the evening, as a very paradise for a recluse.
Juan proposed to stay here for the night, as the wind was now too
violent to permit us to venture outside of the islands; besides, our
improvident men had yet to lay in their supply of plantains—the staff of
life to the inhabitants of Central America. A little boat was
accordingly despatched to a neighboring island, for these indispensable
articles, while the remainder of the crew made supper for themselves. A
single kettle, their machetes and fingers were their only service, but
it was an effective one, and they made themselves as merry as if there
was nothing in the wide world left to wish for. For ourselves, a cup of
coffee and a cut of cold chicken sufficed.
The moon was nearly at her full, and the transition from day to night
was so gradual as hardly to be perceived. Rosy clouds hung long in the
west, changing slowly to deep purple and grey; but when the dominion of
the moon came on, they lighted up again with a silver radiance. A mass,
like a half transparent robe, rolled itself around the summit of the
volcano; the verdure of the island looked dense and heavy upon one side,
while the other was light, and relieved by glancing trunks and branches.
Deep shadows fell on water, with shining strips of silver between, and
except the chafing of the lake upon the outer shores, and the prolonged
moan of the howling monkey, there was not a sound to disturb the
silence. It is true our men talked long, but it was in a low tone, as if
they feared to disturb the general quiet. They finally stretched
themselves on their benches, and my companions wrapped themselves in
their blankets and composed themselves for the night. I did so also, but
I could not sleep; it was not the holy calm of the scene—the
remembrance, of dear friends, or those dearer than friends—it was no
sentimental revery, no pressure of official cares, that kept me awake
that night,—but it was “las pulgas,” _the fleas_ from Manuel’s Santa
Rosa! They seemed to swarm in my clothing. I waited in vain for them to
get their fill and be quiet, but they were insatiable, and almost
maddened me. I got out upon the pineta, and there, under the virgin
moon, carefully removed every article of my apparel, and lashed and beat
it angrily over the sides, in the hope of shaking off the vipers. The
irritation which they had caused was unendurable, and, overcoming all
dread of alligators and fever, I got over the side, and cooled myself in
the water. I did not go beneath the chopa again, but wrapped my blankets
around me, and coiled myself on the pineta.
I had just fallen into a doze, when I was awakened by the clattering of
oars, and found Juan, with his flaming, fluttering shirt, standing over
me at the rudder. It was about two o’clock, and as the wind had abated a
little, our patron seized upon the opportunity to run down to Zapatero.
He had no notion, in which I agreed with him, of attempting the trip
with a light boat, in the midst of the fierce northers which prevail at
this season of the year. I had been a little nervous about the business
from the start, for I had spent one night upon this lake which I am not
likely to forget,—and had exacted a promise from the men to load in
stones, at the islands, by way of ballast. They made a show of
compliance, and next morning I succeeded in finding some twenty-five or
thirty small stones deposited near the first mast, weighing in all,
perhaps, two hundred pounds!
A short spell at the oars, and we were outside of the island. A broad
bay stretched dimly inwards towards the city of Nicaragua; and directly
before us, at the distance of twenty miles, rose the high, irregular
island of Zapatero; beyond which a stationary mass of silvery clouds
showed the position of the majestic volcanic cones of the great island
of Ometepec. The wind was still strong and the waves high, and the boat
tumbled about with an unsteady motion. Amidst a great deal of confusion
the sails were raised—sails large enough for an Indiaman, for the
marineros of Lake Nicaragua consider that everything depends on the size
of the canvas. The “Carlota” was schooner-rigged, and no sooner was she
brought to the wind, than her sails filled, and she literally bounded
forward like a race-horse. She heeled over until her guards touched the
water, precipitating the Dr., who insisted on remaining within the
chopa, from one side to the other, amidst guns, books, blankets,
pistols, bottles, and all the et ceteras of a semi-pleasure excursion.
But, as I have said, he was a philosopher, swore a little, rubbed his
shins, and braced himself crosswise. I remained outside, and hung
tightly to the upper guards. The lull, if it can so be called, under
which we had started, was only temporary. Before we had accomplished a
tenth of the distance to the island, the wind came on to blow with all
its original violence. The waters fairly boiled around us, and hissed
and foamed beneath our stern. I cried to Juan, who was struggling at the
rudder, to take in sail, for the canvas almost touched the water, and
seemed really bursting with the strain, but he responded “too late,” and
braced himself with his shoulder against the tiller, holding with both
hands to the guards. I expected every moment that we would go over,—but
on, onward, we seemed actually to fly. The outlines of Zapatero grew
every moment more distinct, and little islands before undistinguished
came into view. As we neared them, the wind lulled again, and we
breathed freer when we dashed under the lee of the little island of
Chancha, and threw out our anchor close to the shore. “Holy Mary,” said
Juan, as he wiped the sweat from his forehead, “the devils are out in
the lake to-night!” We had made upwards of twenty miles in less than two
hours.
I crept within the chopa, where the Dr. was rubbing his bruises with
brandy, and slept until aroused by the loud barking of dogs. The sun was
up; we were close to a little patch of cleared land, upon one side of
which, half-hidden among the trees, was a single hut. The owner, his
wife, his children, and his dogs, were down on the shores, and all
seemed equally curious to know the object of our sudden visit. Juan
frightened them with an account of a terrible revolution, how he was
flying from the dangers of the main, and advised the islander to keep a
sharp look-out for his safety. The Dr., however, delivered the poor man
from his rising fears, and ordered Juan to put on his shirt and pull
across the channel to Zapatero. An inviting, calm harbor was before us,
but we were separated from it by a channel five hundred yards broad,
through which the compressed wind forced the waters of the lake with the
utmost violence. It seemed as if a great and angry river was rushing
with irresistible fury past us. A high, rocky, projecting point of
Zapatero in part intercepted the current below us, against which the
water dashed with a force like that of the ocean, throwing the spray
many feet up its rocky sides. The men hesitated in starting, but finally
braced themselves in their seats, and pushed into the stream. The first
shock swept us resistlessly before it, but the men pulled with all their
force, under a volley of shouts from Juan, who threw up his arms and
stamped on his little quarter-deck like a madman. It was his way of
giving encouragement. The struggle was long and severe, and we were once
so near the rocks that the recoiling spray fell on our heads; but we
finally succeeded in reaching the little, sheltered bay of which I have
spoken, and, amidst the screams of the thousand waterfowls which we
disturbed, glided into a snug little harbor, beneath a spreading tree,
the bow of our boat resting on the sandy shore. “Here at last,” cried
M., and bounded ashore. I seized a pistol and sword, and followed, and
leaving the Dr. and the men to prepare coffee and breakfast, started in
company with Manuel to see the “_frailes_.” Manuel was armed with a
double-barrelled gun, for this island has no inhabitants, and is
proverbial for the number of its wild animals, which find a fit home in
its lonely fastnesses. I carried a first-class Colt in one hand, and a
short, heavy, two-edged Roman sword in the other, as well for defence as
for cutting away the limbs, vines, and bushes which impede every step in
a tropical forest. Manuel said it was but a few squares to the
“_frailes_” but we walked on and on, through patches of forest and over
narrow savannahs, covered with coarse, high, and tangled grass, until I
got tired. Manuel looked puzzled; he did not seem to recognize the
land-marks. When he had been there before, it was in the midst of the
dry season, and the withered grass and underbrush, stripped of leaves,
afforded no obstruction to the view. Still he kept on, but my
enthusiasm, between an empty stomach and a long walk, was fast giving
place to violent wrath towards Manuel, when suddenly that worthy dropped
his gun, and uttering a scream, leaped high in the air, and turning,
dashed past me with the speed of an antelope. I cocked my pistol, and
stood on my guard, expecting that nothing less than a tiger would
confront me. But I was spared the excitement of an adventure, and
nothing making its appearance, I turned to look for Manuel. He was
rolling in the grass like one possessed, and rubbing his feet and bare
legs with a most rueful expression of face. He had trodden on a bees’
nest, and as he had taken off his breeches, to avoid soiling them,
before starting, I “improved” the occasion to lecture him on the
impropriety of such practices on the part of a Christian, a householder,
and the father of a family. I was astonished, I said, that he, a
gentleman past the middle age of life, the owner of two islands, should
make such a heathen of himself as to go without his breeches. And as I
have heard the special interposition of Providence urged on no more
important occasions than this, at home, I felt authorized in assuring
him that it was clearly a signal mark of Divine displeasure. Manuel
appeared to be much edified, and as I was better protected than himself,
he prevailed upon me to recover his gun, whereupon, taking another path,
we pushed ahead.
After toiling for a long time, we came suddenly upon the edge of an
ancient crater of great depth, at the bottom of which was a lake of
yellowish green, or _sulphurous_ color, the water of which Manuel
assured me was salt. This is probably the fact, but I question much if
any human being ever ventured down its rocky and precipitous sides.
Manuel now seemed to recognize his position, and turning sharp to the
left, we soon came to a broad, level area, covered with immense trees,
and with a thick undergrowth of grass and bushes. There were here some
large, irregular mounds composed of stones, which I soon discovered were
artificial. Around these Manuel said the _frailes_ were scattered, and
he commenced cutting right and left with his machete. I followed his
example, and had not proceeded more than five steps, when I came upon an
elaborately sculptured statue, still standing erect. It was about the
size of the smaller one discovered at Pensacola, but was less injured,
and the face had a mild and benignant aspect. It seemed to smile on me
as I tore aside the bushes which covered it, and appeared almost ready
to speak. (_See Monuments of Zapatero, No. 1._) In clearing further, but
a few feet distant, I found another fallen figure. From Manuel’s shouts
I knew that he had discovered others, and I felt assured that many more
would reward a systematic investigation—and such I meant to make.
[Illustration: IDOLS AT ZAPATERO.—No. 1.]
I was now anxious to return to the boat, so as to bring my entire force
on the ground; and calling to Manuel, I started. Either Manuel took me a
shorter path than we came, or else I was somewhat excited and didn’t
mind distances; at any rate, we were there before I expected. The
sailors listened curiously to our story, and Juan, like Pedro before
him, whispered that “_los Americanos son diablos_.” He had lived, man
and boy, for more than forty years within sight of the island, and had
many times been blockaded by bad weather in the very harbor where we now
were, and yet he had never seen, nor ever so much as heard that there
were “_frailes_” there!
During our absence, a weather-bound canoe, with Indians from Ometepec,
discovering our boat, had put in beside us. They were loaded with fruit
for Granada, and “walked into” our good graces by liberal donations of
_papayas_, _marañons_, _oranges_, _pomegranates_, _zapotes_, etc. They
were small but well-built men, with more angular features than the
Indians of Leon, and betraying a different stock. It will be seen, as we
proceed, that they are of Mexican origin. All had their heads closely
shaved, with the exception of a narrow fringe of hair around the
forehead, extending from one ear to the other—a practice which has
become very general among the people. I admired their well-formed limbs,
and thought how serviceable half-a-dozen such stout fellows would be
amongst the monuments, and incontinently invited them to accompany us,
which invitation they accepted, much to my satisfaction.
Leaving a couple of men to watch the boats, I marshalled my forces, and
set out for the “_frailes_.” We mustered twenty-four strong, a force
which I assured myself was sufficient to set up once more the fallen
divinities, and possibly to remove some of them. As we went along, we
cleared a good path, which, before we left, began to have the appearance
of a highway.
While M. commenced drawing the monument which still stood erect, I
proceeded with the men to clear away the bushes and set up the others. I
knew well that the only way to accomplish anything was to keep up the
first excitement, which I did by liberal dispensations of
aguardiente—the necessities of the case admitted of no alternative. The
first monument which claimed our attention was a well-cut figure, seated
crouching on the top of a high, ornamented pedestal. The hands were
crossed below the knees, the head bent forward, and the eyes widely
opened, as if gazing upon some object upon the ground before it. A mass
of stone rose from between the shoulders, having the appearance of a
conical cap when viewed from the front. (_See Plate 2, No. 2._) It was
cut with great boldness and freedom, from a block of basalt, and had
suffered very little from the lapse of time.
A hole was dug to receive the lower end, ropes were fastened around it,
our whole force was disposed to the best advantage, and at a given
signal, I had the satisfaction of seeing the figure rise slowly and
safely to its original position. No sooner was it secured in place, than
our sailors gave a great shout, and forming a double ring around it,
commenced an outrageous dance, in the pauses of which they made the old
woods ring again with their favorite “_hoo-pah!_” I did not like to have
my brandy effervesce in this manner, for I knew the excitement, once
cooled, could not be revived; so I broke into the circle, and dragging
out Juan by main force, led him to the next monument, which Manuel
called “El Canon,” the Cannon.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration:
IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, N^{os}. 2, 3.
_LITH. OF ENDICOTT & CO. N.Y._ _FACE P.
474._
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
It was a massive, cylindrical block of stone, about as long and twice as
thick as the twin brother of the famous “peace-maker,” now in the
Brooklyn navy-yard. It was encircled by raised bands, elaborately
ornamented; and upon the top was the lower half of a small and neatly
cut figure. In the front of the pedestal were two niches, deeply sunk,
and regular in form, connected by a groove. They were evidently
symbolical. Notwithstanding the excitement of the men, they looked
dubiously upon this heavy mass of sculpture; but I opened another bottle
of aguardiente, and taking one of the levers myself, told them to lay
hold. A hole was dug, as in the former case, but we could only raise the
stone by degrees, by means of thick levers. After much labor, by
alternate lifting and blocking, we got it at an angle of forty-five
degrees, and there it appeared determined to stay. We passed ropes
around the adjacent trees, and placed _falls_ above it, and when all was
ready, and every man at his post, I gave the signal for a _coup de
main_. The ropes creaked and tightened, every muscle swelled, but the
figure did not move. It was a critical moment; the men wavered; I leaped
to the ropes, and shouted at the top of my voice, “_Arriba! arriba! viva
Centro America!_” The men seemed to catch new spirit; there was another
and simultaneous effort,—the mass yielded; “_poco mas, muchachos!_” “a
little more, boys!” and up it went, slowly, but up, up, until, tottering
dangerously, it settled into its place and was secured. The men were
silent for a moment, as if astonished at their own success, and then
broke out in another paroxysm of ardiente and excitement. But this time
each man danced on his own account, and strove to outdo his neighbor in
wild gesticulation. I interfered, but they surrounded me, instead of the
figure, and danced more madly than before, amidst “vivas” for North
America. But the dance ended with my patience,—luckily not before. By a
judicious use of aguardiente, I managed to keep up their spirits, and by
four o’clock in the afternoon, we had all the monuments we could find,
ten in number, securely raised and ready for the draughtsman. Besides
these, we afterwards succeeded in discovering a number of
others,—amounting in all to fifteen perfect, or nearly perfect ones,
besides some fragments.
The men, exhausted with fatigue, disposed themselves in groups around
the statues, or stretched their bodies at length amongst the bushes.
Wearied myself, but with the complacency of a father contemplating his
children, and without yet venturing to speculate upon our singular
discoveries, I seated myself upon a broad, flat stone, artificially
hollowed in the centre, and gave rein to fancy. The bushes were cleared
away, and I could easily make out the positions of the ruined
_teocalli_, and take in the whole plan of the great aboriginal temple.
Over all now towered immense trees, shrouded in long robes of grey moss,
which hung in masses from every limb, and swayed solemnly in the wind. I
almost fancied them in mourning for the departed glories of the place.
In fact, a kind of superstitious feeling, little in consonance with the
severity of philosophical investigation, began to creep over me. Upon
one side were steep cliffs, against which the waters of the lake chafed
with a subdued roar, and upon the other was the deep, extinct crater,
with its black sides and sulphurous lake; it was in truth a weird place,
not unfittingly chosen by the aboriginal priesthood as the theatre of
their strange and gloomy rites. While engaged in these fanciful
reveries, I stretched myself, almost unconsciously, upon the stone where
I was sitting. My limbs fell into place as if the stone had been made to
receive them,—my head was thrown back, and my breast raised; a second,
and the thought flashed across my mind with startling force—“_the stone
of sacrifice!_” I know not whether it was the scene, or the current of
my thoughts, perhaps both, but I leaped up with a feeling half of alarm.
I observed the stone more closely; it was a rude block altered by art,
and had beyond question been used as a stone of sacrifice. I afterwards
found two others, clearly designed for the same purpose, but they had
been broken.
[Illustration: THE STONE OF SACRIFICE.]
The relative positions of the mounds or ruined Teocalli, as also of the
monuments, are shown in the subjoined Plan. These mounds are made up of
loose, unhewn stones, heaped together in apparent confusion. But
although they now show no evidence of the fact, yet it is undoubted that
they were originally regular in their forms; for we have the direct
assurances of the early chroniclers, that the adoratorios or altars of
the aboriginal inhabitants were conical and pyramidal in shape, like
those of Mexico, and like them, ascended by steps. It was upon the
summits of these that sacrifices were performed. Their present
dilapidation is probably due no less to the hostile zeal of the
conquerors who “broke down the altars” of the Indians, than to the
destroying assaults of time and the elements. I attempted to penetrate
into one of them, (_A, in the Plan_,) and removed a great quantity of
stones, to the depth of several feet, at imminent risk of being stung by
scorpions, but discovered nothing to repay me for my toil. The whole
seemed to be a mass of rough stones, largely intermixed with broken
pottery, some of the fragments of which were not only of fine material,
but showed that the vessels of which they were once parts had been
elaborately painted in brilliant colors, still retaining their original
freshness and beauty. These mounds do not seem to have been arranged
with any regularity in respect to each other; neither do the monuments
themselves display any apparent design in their relative positions. It
may be questioned, however, whether the latter have not been removed
from the places where they originally stood.
[Illustration: PLAN OF MONUMENTS AT ZAPATERO.]
NO. 1.—This was the first stone which I discovered, and is very
faithfully exhibited in the engraving facing page 52. It is remarkable
as being one of the two which were found standing. I think it more than
probable that it has been placed in that position by the Indians or
others who have lately visited the spot. It projects six feet above the
ground, in which it is probably planted about two feet. It is a flat
slab, thirty-two inches broad by eighteen in thickness. The back is
notched, something like that of the figure which I have already
described as having been obtained from Momotombita, and planted in the
plaza of Leon.
NOS. 2 AND 3.—The first of these I have already described on page 54.
Its position is indicated by the corresponding number of the plan, to
the right of mound H. Near it was found a smaller and very rude figure,
(_No. 3 of Plan_), which is shown lying at the foot of No. 2 in the
plate. It represents a man much distorted in figure, with the head bent
down upon one side, and resting on the left shoulder, the arms crossed,
and the legs flexed together. The design seems to have been suggested by
the natural shape of the stone, which is very little modified by art.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration:
IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, N^{os}.4, 5.
_LITH. OF ENDICOTT & CO. N.Y._ _FACE P.
478._
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration:
IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, N^{os}. 6, 7.
_LITH. OF ENDICOTT & CO. N.Y._ _FACE P.
479._
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOS. 4 AND 5.—Although not the tallest, No. 4 was the heaviest figure of
the group; and, as I have already said (p. 474), was raised to an erect
position with great difficulty. It is nine feet in height, and eight in
circumference at the largest part, cylindrical in form, and encircled by
raised, ornamented bands. The singular niches in front I have already
alluded to, but have no conception of their design. When found, the
preposterous figure on the top was imperfect, but the various fragments
were afterwards discovered, and I was able perfectly to restore it, with
the exception of a portion of the face. It is represented seated upon a
low block, which has a kind of back, like that of a chair. The top of
the cylinder also shelves in from the circumference. Neither of these
features can be exhibited in the engraving. It will be observed that the
head forms a cross, a feature which occurs in some of the other
monuments at the same place, and which recalls to mind the repeated
declaration of the early Catholic priests, that the sign of the cross
was of frequent occurrence amongst the sacred symbols of Yucatan and
Central America. It is impossible to resist the conviction, that this
unique little figure, with its monstrously disproportioned head, was
symbolical in its design, and probably ranked high amongst the objects
of the ancient worship. More labor seems to have been expended upon its
cylindrical pedestal than upon any of the others. The whole is
sculptured from a single, solid block of basalt, of great hardness. The
niches in front are cut with all the clearness and precision of modern
art.
Near the figure just described was found another (_No. 5 of Plan_),
which is shown in the same Plate. It is however of an entirely different
character; and, as I have elsewhere said, represents a Silenus looking
personage, with a large abdomen, reclining in a seat, which has also a
high back, as will be seen by reference to the engraving. The features
of the face are large, and expressive of great complacency. The head
seems to have been crowned in like manner with No. 1, but the conical
projection has been broken off and lost. The hands rest upon the thighs;
but at the elbows, the arms are detached from the body. The point of
view from which the sketch was taken does not permit this feature to be
shown. Below the figure, and between the legs and the seat upon which it
principally rests, the stone is artificially perforated. The whole is
cut with great boldness, and has a striking effect. Our men called it
“el Gordo,” “the Fat,” and it might pass for one of Hogarth’s beer
drinkers petrified.
NOS. 6 AND 7.]—This first figure (No. 6) is amongst the most striking of
the whole group. It is twelve feet high, sculptured from a single block,
and also represents a figure seated, as before described, upon a high
pedestal. In common with No. 4, the stone, behind the head, is cut in
the form of a cross. The limbs are heavy, and the face equally
characteristic with that of No. 5, but grave and severe.
Near the mound, or ruined teocalli, B, and amongst the _debris_ at its
base, I found the statue represented in the same Plate with No. 6. It
had been broken, and the lower part, including its pedestal, if it ever
had one, and part of the legs, could not be found. The face had
evidently suffered from intentional violence, and the monstrous head and
jaws which surmounted the head of the figure had also been much injured.
The carving, in this instance, was comparatively rough, and the figure
produced upon me the impression that it was of higher antiquity than the
others.
A little to the right of this, on the slope of the mound B, about
one-third of the way to its summit, stood another figure, somewhat
smaller than the last, and half buried amongst the stones of the mound.
It was so firmly fixed, as to induce me to believe that it occupied its
original position. Like the one last mentioned, it had suffered much
from violence, and, the stone being defective, from exposure. I could
only make out that it represented some animal springing upon the head
and back of a human figure, very nearly in the same manner as
represented in No. 10. I did not think it worth sketching. Its place is
shown by the figure 8, in the plan.
[Illustration: MONUMENTS AT ZAPATERO.—NO. 9.]
NO. 9.—While cutting a path around the mound indicated by the letter C,
which was covered in part by an immense fallen tree, and overgrown with
a tangled mass of small trees, vines, and bushes, I came upon a flat
slab of stone, resembling a tomb-stone. It had been broken, probably
about in the middle, and the upper half, which is represented in the
accompanying engraving, alone remained. This fragment is about five feet
in length, by three in greatest breadth. The sculpture, differing from
anything else found in the island, is in bas-relief, and represents the
upper half of a human figure with an extraordinary head, which appears
to be surmounted by a kind of skull-cap or casque. The face bears slight
resemblance to humanity; the eyes are represented by two holes deeply
sunk in the stone, and the tongue seems to project from the mouth, and
to rest upon a kind of flap which hangs upon the breast. It appeared to
me that the design was to represent a mask; and the whole probably had a
profound symbolical significance. Manuel pronounced this to be one of
the “frailes,” and said that there was formerly another, in the attitude
of prayer, in the vicinity of this. After much search, we discovered it,
beneath the fallen tree of which I have spoken, but it was impossible to
reach it. The tree was far too large to be cut away with the rude native
axes; I tried to burn it, but without success, and was obliged to leave
the figure to be described by some future traveller.
NO. 10.—This figure, which is now in the Museum of the Smithsonian
Institution at Washington, formerly stood at the base of the mound A. It
represents a man, squatted upon his haunches, after the common manner of
the Indians to this day, with one hand at his side, and the other placed
upon his breast. The head is held erect, and the forehead is encircled
by a kind of ornamented fillet. The features are unlike those of any
other of the figures found here; indeed, each one had its individual
characteristics, which could not be mistaken. Upon the back of this
statue, its fore paws resting upon the shoulders, and its hind ones upon
the hips, is the representation of some wild animal, grasping in its
mouth the back part of the head of the figure. It seems intended to
represent a tiger.
NO. 11.—In the vicinity of the mound D, were several small and
comparatively rude figures. No. 11, shown in the accompanying engraving,
is sculptured upon the convex side of a slab of stone, about five feet
in length by eighteen inches broad. The figure in this instance also is
represented seated. The outlines of the limbs are alone indicated. The
head, however, is cut in rather high relief. The expression of the face
is serious; the forehead is bound by a band or fillet; and is surmounted
by a rudely represented head-dress. The hands rest upon the abdomen, and
support what appears to be a human head, or the mask of a human face. I
brought this figure away, and it is also deposited in the Museum of the
Smithsonian Institution.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: IDOLS AT ZAPATERO.—No. 10.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
NO. 12.—This is also a very rude figure. It consists of a rough block of
stone, slightly modified by art, and seems designed to represent a human
body with the head or mask of an animal. The mouth is widely opened,
exhibiting long tusks or teeth. The stone projects some distance above
this head, and has upon each side a round, cup-shaped hole, smoothly cut
in the stone. The representation of a human head surmounts the whole.
[Illustration: IDOLS AT ZAPATERO.—NOS. 11 AND 12.]
NO. 13.—This is a curious little figure, not more than three feet and a
half high. The original shape of the stone is retained, and the art
expended upon it is but trifling. The engraving on the next page will
sufficiently explain its various features. The position of No. 14 is
indicated in the plan, but it is so much defaced that no engraving of it
is considered necessary.
[Illustration: MONUMENT AT ZAPATERO.—NO. 13.]
NO. 15.—Amongst the heaps of stone surrounding the mound situated at the
extreme left of the group, were found a couple of statues, very
elaborately carved. They were extricated with great difficulty, but
amply repaid the labor.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration:
IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, N^{os}. 15, 16.
_LITH. OF ENDICOTT & CO. N. Y._ _FACE P.
486._
]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
The one first uncovered is a colossal representation of what is here
called a “tiger,” seated upon its haunches. It is very boldly
sculptured. The head is thrown forward, the mouth open, and the entire
attitude and expression that of great ferocity. Indeed, as it stood
erect, beneath the gloomy shadows of the great trees which surrounded
it, I easily comprehended the awe with which it probably was regarded by
the people, in whose religious system it entered as the significant
emblem of a power mightier than that of man. The base or pedestal, it
will be observed, is ornamented in the usual manner. A considerable
portion of it, two feet or more, is buried in the ground. The entire
height is eight feet.
NO. 16—This statue was discovered not far from No. 15, and is one of the
most remarkable of the entire series. It is upwards of twelve feet in
height, and represents a very well-proportioned figure, seated upon a
kind of square throne, raised five feet from the ground. Above the head
is a monstrous symbolical head, similar to those which surmount the
statues in the island of Pensacola. The resemblance to some of the
symbolical heads in the ancient Mexican rituals cannot be overlooked;
and I am inclined to the opinion that I shall be able to identify all
these figures, as I believe I already have some of them, with the
divinities of the Aztec Pantheon. The surmounting head is two feet eight
inches broad, and is smoothly and sharply worked.
The arms of this figure, as in the case of No. 5, are detached from the
body for some distance above and below the elbows. The face has suffered
from violence, and the statue itself is broken in the middle.
NOS. 17 AND 18 of the plan are oblong stones, modified by art, and were
unquestionably the altars whereon human sacrifices were made. There is a
hollow place sculptured nearly in the centre of each stone, which it is
not unreasonable to suppose was designed to receive the blood of the
victims.
NO. 19.—This is a basaltic rock deeply imbedded in the earth. The part
which projects above the surface is somewhat rounded, and is covered
with ornamental figures, sculptured in the stone. Those which could be
distinctly traced are given in the accompanying engraving. They are cut
with great regularity to the depth of from one-fifth to one-third of an
inch, by about half an inch in breadth. They do not appear to form any
intelligible figure.
The shape of this rock favors the suggestion that it was also used as a
stone of sacrifice.
[Illustration: MONUMENTS AT ZAPATERO.—NO. 19.]
Besides these, I discovered many fragments of other figures, of which,
however, I could not make out the design. Some of these fragments were
found at the very edge of the extinct crater of which I have spoken, and
which, as will be seen by reference to the supplementary plan, is only
about one hundred yards distant from this group of ruins. It is not
improbable that, in their zeal to destroy every trace of aboriginal
idolatry, the early Spaniards threw many of these monuments into the
lake. None except those which, from their massiveness, are not easily
broken or defaced, were found to be entire. All the others had been
entirely broken or very much injured. Not a few have been removed at
various times. Those which I have described as still existing in Granada
were obtained here; and it is said that some of the most elaborate have
been taken by the Indians within a comparatively late period, and either
buried or set up in secluded places in the forest. Manuel said that when
he was there, about ten years ago, he noticed a number which were not
now to be found, and which he was confident had been removed, or were so
covered up with grass and bushes as not to be discovered. I myself am
satisfied that other figures exist here, and at other points on the
island, which might be found later in the dry season, when the grass and
underbrush are withered, and may be destroyed by burning. When I speak
of grass and underbrush, it is not to be supposed that I mean anything
like what in the United States would be meant by these terms. Around the
large mound A, there were few trees, but the whole space was covered
with bushes and grass; the stems of the latter were as thick as the
little finger, and if extended would measure from ten to fifteen feet in
length. When matted together they are like tangled ropes, and are almost
impenetrable. The explorer has literally to cut his way inch by inch, if
he would advance at all.
The dry season had just commenced at the time of my visit, and the grass
was only sufficiently withered to be twice as tough as when perfectly
green, without being dry enough to burn. I offered rewards for the
discovery of “piedras,” but the men preferred to lounge in the shade to
clearing away the undergrowth; and although the Dr. and myself worked
constantly, we discovered no new ones after the second day of our stay
on the island. Manuel was certain that there were one or two small, but
very elaborate ones, to the right of the great mound A. I commenced
clearing there on the third day, but had not proceeded far, when I was
startled by the stroke of a rattlesnake, and the next instant discovered
the convolutions of his body amongst the tangled grass. I only saw that
he was a monster, as thick as my arm; and as he had the advantage in a
fight amongst the grass, I beat a retreat, and resigned the grassy
citadel to his snakeship. I was not particularly ambitious to resume my
explorations in that direction, and the Indians, who entertain a
profound dread of “cascabelas,” utterly refused to go near the spot.
There is a part of the island called “Punta Colorada,” where the Indians
told me there were some remains, and where, upon excavation, many
ancient vases were to be discovered. Some of these, from their accounts,
contained the bones and ashes of the dead. This point was on the exposed
part of the island; and with the wind from the north, and a rough, rocky
coast, it was impossible to reach it by water. As to going over land,
the thing was quite out of the question. High volcanic cliffs, walls of
lava, and deep fissures and extinct craters intervened.
In respect to the monuments discovered here, it will be observed that,
although the style of workmanship is the same throughout, each figure
has a marked individuality, such as might pertain to divinities of
distinct attributes and different positions in the ancient Pantheon. The
material, in every case, is a black basalt, of great hardness, which,
with the best of modern tools, can only be cut with difficulty. Like
those described by Mr. Stephens, at Copan, these statues do not seem to
have been originally placed upon the _Teocallis_, but erected around
their bases. They are less in size than those of Copan, and are
destitute of the heavy, and apparently incongruous mass of ornaments
with which those are loaded. They are plain, simple, and severe; and
although not elaborately finished, are cut with considerable freedom and
skill. There is no attempt at drapery in any of the figures; they are
what the dilettanti call _nudities_, and afford strong corroborative
proof of the existence of that primitive worship to which I have
elsewhere alluded, as of common acceptance amongst the semi-civilized
nations of America.
There are reasons for believing that these monuments were erected by the
people who occupied the country, at the time of the Conquest by the
Spaniards, in 1522. I am not disposed to assign to them a much higher
antiquity. Entertaining this opinion, I reserve what further I have to
say concerning them, as also concerning the others which fell under my
notice in this country, for the chapters on the Aboriginal Inhabitants
of Nicaragua.