CHAPTER XIV.

THE PRIESTHOOD IN NICARAGUA—DECLINE IN THE INFLUENCE OF THE

CHURCH—BANISHMENT OF THE ARCHBISHOP—SUPPRESSION OF THE

CONVENTS—PROHIBITION OF PAPAL BULLS—LEGITIMIZATION OF THE CHILDREN

OF PRIESTS—THE THREE ABANDONED CONVENTS OF LEON—PADRE CARTINE, THE

LAST OF THE FRANCISCANS—RECEPTION, OR CLOCK ROOM—THE PADRE’S PETS;

HIS ORATORY; PRIVATE APARTMENTS; WORKSHOP—A SKULL AND ITS

HISTORY—THE EGLESIA DEL RECOLECCION—THE PADRE AS A LANDLORD; AS A

PAINTER; AS AN UNCLE; AND AS NEGOTIATOR IN MARRIAGE—AN AUSPICIOUS

OMEN—DEATH OF THE VICAR OF THE DIOCESS OF NICARAGUA—HIS OBSEQUIES—A

FUNERAL ORATION—PRIESTLY ELOQUENCE—AN EPITAPH—GENERAL FUNERAL

CEREMONIES—DEATH AS AN ANGEL OF MERCY—BURIAL PRACTICES—CAPELLANIAS;

THEIR EFFECTS, AND THE POLICY OF THE GOVERNMENT IN RESPECT TO

THEM—POPULAR BIGOTRY AND SUPERSTITION—AN ANCIENT INDULGENCE—THE

POTENCY OF AN EJACULATION—REMISSION OF SINS—PENETENCIAS—RATIONALE OF

THE PRACTICE—NOVEL PENANCES—TURNING SINS TO GOOD ACCOUNT—GOOD FROM

EVIL—SYSTEM OF THE PADRE CARTINE—THE DIOCESS OF NICARAGUA, AND ITS

BISHOP—GENERAL EDUCATION—PUBLIC SCHOOLS—THE UNIVERSITIES OF LEON AND

GRANADA—A SAD PICTURE.

Although there is probably less religious bigotry in Nicaragua and San

Salvador than in most of the Spanish American States, yet the priests

still exercise considerable influence amongst the popular masses. To

their credit, however, be it said, that many of them, although not

highly educated, are not only men of liberal sentiments, but amongst the

most active promoters of measures of general improvement. Previous to

the Independence, the Church in Central America was well endowed, and

quite as exacting as in any other part of the continent, or in Spain

itself. For some time subsequent to that event, it retained much of its

strength, and was active in the political affairs of the country.

Unfortunately, its influence was seldom felt in behalf of liberal

institutions, general or local.

It is not to be doubted that the men who were the promoters of the

Independence, and most active in the establishment of the Republic, were

very little under priestly influence; for one of the first acts of the

National Constituent Assembly was to prohibit the sale of Papal

indulgences, and to limit the exactions of the Church. This policy

arrayed the priestly influence against the new order of things, and it

was henceforth exercised in favor of the aristocratical, monarchical, or

Servile faction, against the Liberals and the Republic,—thus becoming

one of the causes of many of the disasters to which the country has

since been subjected. Yet the zeal of the Priests did not fail to react

upon themselves. They entered into the arena of politics, and were

treated as partisans in the civil contests. They espoused the cause of

an obnoxious faction, and came to share its odium as well as its

misfortunes. The Liberals, emancipated from the machinery of the Church,

soon began to look with incredulity on its doctrines, and with contempt

on its forms; and although the people of Central America are still

nominally Catholics, yet amongst those capable of reflection, or

possessed of education, there are more who are destitute of any fixed

creed, rationalists, or what are sometimes called free thinkers, than

Catholics, or adherents of any form of religion. Many of the priests

share in the general skepticism.

The first decided encounter between the Church and the Republic, was in

1825, when the people of San Salvador, the stronghold of Liberalism,

dissatisfied with the political tendencies of the Bishop of Guatemala,

under whose ecclesiastical jurisdiction they were, elected a Bishop of

their own, in defiance of the Archbishop and the Pope. This example was

soon after followed by Nicaragua. The ignorant priesthood, the friars of

Quesaltenango, siding with the Archbishop and the Serviles, infuriated

by this and other bold innovations, contrived to excite the Indians in

Los Altos, who in their fury cruelly slaughtered the vice-president of

the Republic; and for a time the Liberals were overwhelmed by the

coalition. They, however, afterwards rallied under Gen. Morazan. During

his enlightened and vigorous sway, in 1829, it was discovered that the

Archbishop was intriguing against the government; and it was then the

Church received a blow from which it can never recover. Morazan was not

a man to be trifled with; he boldly seized the Archbishop, and sent him

out of the country under a guard of soldiers, forbidding his return

under penalty of death. The monks and friars belonging to the various

convents and monasteries of Guatemala, who were deeply concerned with

the Archbishop, were expelled in an equally summary manner. But the

measures thus commenced did not stop here. The Legislature of Guatemala

decreed the suppression of all the male convents, prohibited females

from becoming nuns for the future, and appropriated the revenues of the

suppressed monasteries. This act was ratified by the General Congress,

which, catching the same spirit, within two months after the banishment

of the Archbishop declared all religious orders at an end throughout the

Republic. This decisive measure met with the almost unanimous sanction

of the people, and was at once carried into effect in the several

States. The Congress also decreed not only complete Religious Liberty,

but that the appointment to church dignities pertained to the nation,

and should be made by the President of the Republic; prohibited the

promulgation of all papal bulls, unless they had received the previous

sanction of the Federal Government, as also the sale or use of papal

dispensations, of whatever character. The State of Honduras shortly

afterwards passed a law, which, I believe, was also adopted by all the

other States, legalizing the marriage of the priests, and legitimatizing

their children, so as to permit of their succeeding to their fathers’

property.[22]

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Footnote 22:

In their zeal to educate the people, and to weaken their religious

prejudices, theatres were established, in which the arts and objects

of priestcraft were exposed to ridicule, contempt, and reprobation. A

play called “La Inquisicion por dentro,” or “A Peep into the

Inquisition,” had a great run, and brought that institution into

effectual and lasting odium.

“In Guatemala,” says Mr. Crowe, “Papal bulls of indulgence, which used

to be as much valued as paper currency in other countries, are now

used by the shopkeepers as waste paper for wrapping their goods. In

San Salvador, the Bishop, a few years since, offered first twenty and

afterwards forty days of plenary indulgence, to be deducted from the

period of purgatorial sufferings after death, to all who should aid in

removing an unsightly mound of earth which disgraced one of the

squares of the city, and injured the effect of the Cathedral; but the

mound remained, although the Bishop again doubled the promised

remission.”

-----

Subsequently to the dissolution of the confederacy, and under the

direction of the Serviles, the convents of Guatemala were

re-established, but the other States have persisted in the prohibitory

action of 1829, or rather no attempt has been made to revive the

monasteries suppressed under it. There were formerly, as I have already

said, three convents in Leon; that of San Juan de Dios has been

converted into a hospital; that of La Merced is only used by the

government in case of need as a cuartel, or barracks. The largest, the

Franciscan, although in a state of hopeless decay, is still watched over

faithfully by the Padre Cartine. He has thus far preserved its precincts

sacred from profane intrusion, and lingers silently amongst its

dilapidated corridors, and weed-infested courts, like the antiquary

amongst the tombs, the last of the powerful fraternity of San Francisco

in Leon.

The Padre Cartine is a learned man, in the continental acceptation of

the term of two centuries ago. That is to say, he reads Latin and the

Fathers, and is familiar with the Natural History of Pliny,—the latest

book on the subject with which he is acquainted, and which is his sole

authority. The Padre is withal a mathematician, has a Latin edition of

Euclid, and reads it once a year by way of amusement, and to refresh his

memory. He is an architect, and has made a plan for the restoration of

the convent, on a scale of splendor which would beggar a prince to carry

out, and feels as anxious about its accuracy as if the masons were to

commence to-morrow, and any defect in the plan would ruin the

architectural effect of the structure for ever.

I am not likely to forget my first visit to Padre Cartine. I found him

seated in a broad arm-chair, in the principal room of his house. He had

been a man of fine proportions, but was now a little corpulent, a defect

only to be observed when he was standing. His head was of fine outline,

large, and massive, and his face had an expression of intelligence,

dignity, and equanimity, at once pleasing and impressive. He wore a

dress of coarse, gray serge, bound at the waist by a rough pita cord,

for he still kept up many of the austere practices of his order. The

furniture of the house was plain and simple, and I believe all of the

Padre’s own manufacture. Upon a low bench extending around two sides of

the room, was a most incongruous assortment of clocks, of every date,

pattern, and country, from a tall cupboard contrivance of the last

century, dingy with age, in the corner, through every intermediate

variety, to a little German or French concern, which ticked spitefully

from the opposite wall. There were cases without clocks, and clocks

without cases; besides a wilderness of weights, cords, pulleys, wheels,

and springs; for the Padre was so passionately fond of clocks, that he

not only kept an extensive variety of his own to tinker, but borrowed

all of his neighbors’, and encouraged the distant villagers to bring him

theirs for gratuitous cleansing and repair. No Jew’s second-hand

furniture-shop in Chatham street could afford more than a very faint

counterpart of this curious collection. The Padre observed that they

attracted my attention, and commenced a philosophical lecture on

horology, which I hastily brought to a close by suggesting a walk

through the old convent and the church which had been attached to it. In

the first courtyard were half a dozen deer, tame as kittens, which came

bounding up at the sound of the Padre’s voice; they licked his extended

hand, and held down their heads to have them rubbed, but failing to

cajole the Padre out of a plantain or tortilla, butted him playfully,

and struck at him with well-feigned malice. Upon one side of this court

the Padre had fitted up a private chapel. It contained a marble altar, a

wax figure of Christ, and a great variety of valuable ornaments saved

from the wreck of the monastery, and with which no earthly consideration

could prevail upon the Padre to part. An expression, half of sorrow,

half of pride, passed over the Padre’s face as he held the door open

that we might see the precious contents of his oratory. From this he

took us to a large room, his own private apartment, in which was the

rough hide bed whereon he slept, and which contrasted strangely with a

rich set of travelling wine and liqueur bottles, which he complacently

displayed to us, (not badly filled, by the way), in a secure closet. In

another room the Padre had his workshop. In one corner was a foot-lathe

of his own construction, in which he turned beads from the arm-bones of

defunct Señoras, to be strung on consecrated rosaries, and sold for the

benefit of piety and the church—whose interests have always wonderfully

accorded. Here were kettles containing purified sulphur from the

volcanoes, nitre, and charcoal, to be compounded for the glorification

of the saints, the service of the Lord, and the utter desperation of

heretics, in the form of bombas. Here, too, was a machine, also of the

Padre’s invention and construction, for grinding and polishing the

glasses of spectacles, for the Padre, amongst his multifarious

accomplishments, was an optician, the only one, probably, in all Central

America. He had, in fact, constructed a telescope for the University of

Leon, and astounded the citizens by showing them the rings of Saturn!

“You are a most accomplished man, Padre,” said I, glancing at his

mechanical achievements. “_Juguetes_,” playthings, mere playthings,

responded the Padre, with a complacent smile, which was intended to be

depreciatory. In the third courtyard, next the church, grew a

magnificent mango tree. At its foot a mozo had been digging, to

extirpate some burrowing animal, and had thrown up a variety of human

bones, and amongst them a skull. Its delicate proportions attracted my

attention, and I stepped aside and picked it up.

“Ah, Padre, this is a woman’s skull, a girl’s skull, I am sure! Padre,

how came it here?”

The Padre took it quickly from my hand, looked at it, and then gazed in

an abstracted, reflecting manner upon the spot which it had occupied.

After a few moments’ silence, he spoke, deliberately removing the earth

from the eye sockets with his fore-finger;

“Ah, Señor! she was very beautiful, this girl. She was the youngest

daughter of Señora M——! Heaven rest her soul! She died of the cholera in

the year ’37. Five thousand of our people died in four short months,

Señor! The Señorita Inez! She was only sixteen years old, Señor; but yet

a woman, and beautiful, very beautiful!”

And the Padre held the delicate skull before him, as if it was clothed

with flesh again, and he gazed upon the smiling face once more.

“Very beautiful,” he soliloquized. “She was amongst the first; there are

five hundred buried in this very court, Señor,” said the Padre rapidly,

turning towards me, and crossing himself. “Five thousand in four months!

in four short months!”

The expression of the old man’s face, as the memory of those four months

came back upon him, showed how terrible and ineffaceable were the scenes

which they had witnessed. “She was very beautiful!” and the Padre placed

the skull gently in the earth again, laid the delicate bones carefully

around it, and with his naked hand scraped the loose earth above them.

The interior of the Eglesia del Recoleccion, which has a most elaborate

façade, covered with shields on which are exhibited all the prominent

devices of the church, was dark and gloomy. The altar was a fine one,

and the Padre kept a lamp burning constantly before an image of the

Virgin, which looked spectral enough beneath its feeble rays. A number

of pictures were suspended upon the walls, among which were a variety of

saints frying complacently upon gridirons, smiling from stakes of

impalement, or sailing smoothly away amongst a swarm of baby angels and

bodiless cherubs, to a most substantial looking heaven, elevated only a

few yards above the earth. We ascended into the tower by a series of

rickety stairs, with gaps here and there ranging from one to four steps,

up which the prudent Padre did not essay to go. From this tower we

obtained a fine view, second only to that to be had from the top of the

Cathedral. As we descended, a huge owl, which we had startled from his

roost in some dark corner of the tower, nearly knocked us over in his

flight. We returned through the Golgotha, to the grand reception or

clock room, where the Padre showed us his plan for restoring the

convent, in red and black ink, which required only a single thing to its

realization, and that was precisely what the Padre did not know how to

obtain, viz., money! We nevertheless made him happy before leaving, by

promising to write to the United States, on his behalf, to obtain a

grand clock for his church, which should exhibit three dials, and strike

the hours. “Con tres frentes!” repeated the Padre, calling after us as

we passed down the street, “with three dials!”

The Padre ultimately became my landlord. I hired a house of him, which

he had himself designed and built, opposite the old convento. It had a

grand sala and two rooms on the street, with quarters for the servants,

and a kitchen, arranged after the usual plan,—altogether one of the most

desirable buildings in Leon. It had before rented for six dollars per

month, but as I was a particular friend of the Padre, I got it for nine.

The Padre was really ashamed to ask that sum, but then he had written a

religious pamphlet, which he wanted to publish, and I told him that I

should be too happy to contribute to that laudable object, and that the

house was worth twice the money,—which was pretty good, considering that

the best house in Leon rented for but fourteen dollars per month. The

Padre had achieved a great triumph in painting the interior of this

house. It was done in fresco, in a style as novel as complicated, and

with as many colors as could conveniently be compounded. But the Padre’s

_chef d’œuvre_ was the _menagerie_, as we called it, upon the wall of

the servants’ corridor. His models had been the figures of animals and

objects represented in the Child’s First Primer, or illustrated

alphabet, a copy of which he must have obtained from the United States

or England, for there was the entire series commencing “A was an Ape

that ran after his tail,” down to “Z was a Zebra who came from the

Cape,” all depicted of large size, and in flaming colors. This fact will

perhaps sufficiently illustrate the state of decorative art in

Nicaragua.

The Padre had a niece (_de facto_, oh skeptic!) who, with her mother,

occupied a detached part of his own house, and over whom, as she was

exceedingly pretty, he kept most rigorous watch. He gave out, for the

benefit of gallants, that he would shoot the first who should be seen

around the premises, and really kept a loaded musket for the purpose.

The Padre was a man of his word, and the threat was effectual in its

object; the gallants kept away. The last time I heard from Leon, a young

American, from Boston, was diplomatizing with the Padre for the hand of

his sobrina; it went hard to resign her to a heretic, but the Padre’s

heart is soft, and even rocks yield to time. Boston and Leon;

Massachusetts and Nicaragua; the omen is auspicious and significant!

I have elsewhere mentioned the name of the Vicario of the Bishopric, Don

Desiderio de la Quadra, who was the first of the clergy to pay his

respects to me, upon my arrival in Leon. He was then ill, and died on

the 4th of October following. His funeral was conducted with great

ceremony and solemnity. On the morning of the 5th, circulars, of which

the following is a copy, were directed to all the principal inhabitants,

and left by a messenger bearing a silver cross shrouded in crape, from

the Cathedral.

“AL SEÑOR;——

“A las seis de la tarde de ayer ha muerto nuestro muy amado tio el Sr.

Vicario Capitular y Apostòlico, Presbitero Beneficiado Dr. Don José

Desiderio Quadra: su cadáver será sepultado en la Santa Catedral

Yglesia de esta Ciudad, saliendo el entierro á las cuatro de la tarde

de la casa de su morada. Si U. se dignase honrarle con su asistencia,

le serán muy reconocidos sus mas atentos servidores Q. B. S. M.

MATEO MAYORGA.

“TRINIDAD QUADRA.

_Leon, Octubre 5 de 1849._”

At the appointed hour we proceeded to the house which the Vicar had

occupied. It was a large building, furnished in the simplest manner, for

the Vicar was a practical as well as professed follower of Christ, and

was faithful to his vows of poverty. All of his income, except the small

sum necessary to supply his frugal wants, was devoted to charity. The

courtyard and the corridor were already filled with people; and the

clergy occupied the grand sala in which the corpse was lying. The

ceremonies of the funeral had already commenced, we could hear the

chants and prayers, and see the wax lights, but the place was

overcrowded, and we did not attempt to enter. After a while a passage

was opened through the assemblage for the bearers of the dead, preceded

and surrounded by priests, full robed and with uncovered heads. The

people in the courtyard knelt, as the remains were carried by. In the

street was a sort of car, covered with drapery, upon which the corpse,

dressed in the vicarial robes, was placed. Here another prayer was

chanted; and when it was concluded, the car, surrounded by the entire

body of the clergy, and preceded by the empty ecclesiastical carriage,

moved towards the Cathedral. All the officers of State, and a large

number of the principal citizens, bearing wax candles, followed; and

then came the mass of the people, without order, but silently and

decently. The cortege stopped at each corner, where a prayer was

repeated in low recitative by the priests, who walked slowly around the

car, and sprinkled the ground with holy water. The troops were drawn, up

with arms reversed, in the plaza, which the procession entered amidst

the tolling of the muffled bells of the Cathedral. The body was carried

up the main aisle, and placed upon an elevated platform, immediately in

front of the great altar, while the choir filled the vast building with

the solemn tones of the chant for the dead. The light fell from the dome

full upon the rigid face of the corpse, calm and cold as marble,

surrounded by earnest groups, standing silently in the shadows of the

lofty arches. An extempore funeral oration was pronounced by the SEÑOR

PRESBITERO DEAN D. REMIJIO SALAZAR, of the town of El Viejo. It was

founded on the passage in the eleventh chapter of Leviticus, “Sed

santos, porque yo soy santo.” “Be ye holy, for I am holy,” and was given

with good oratorical effect and much feeling, and was altogether

impressive and appropriate. Its tenor was to show that the deceased,

from his observance of the requisitions of God and the church, was

entitled to be regarded as a saint. The analysis of what constitutes

“the Israelite indeed,” was made with great clearness and eloquence, and

in more pretending countries than those of Nicaragua, would have stamped

its author as a man of no ordinary abilities.

“The true saint,” said the speaker, “walks apart from the glittering

road trodden by the proud and selfish world. His is the path in the

valley of humility. He pants not for the glory of the soldier, or the

fame of the statesman, the splendor of wealth, or the dignity of social

position. Has he talents? He consecrates them to our holy religion. Has

he wealth? It is a free offering at the feet of Charity. Has he a lofty

lineage, and illustrious name? He humbly surrenders them at the shrine

of the Church. All this did the venerated dead! He was a man who feared

God, and adhered steadfastly to his service; irreproachable in conduct,

a faithful son, a true friend, an obedient citizen, a man disinterested

in his views and actions, moderate in his desires, uncomplaining in

adversity, humble, in prosperity; purified in the fire, weighed in the

balance, by the loftiest standard of the Holy Law, he is proved a saint!

And now, amidst the glorious array of saints and martyrs, beyond the

clouded atmosphere of earth, in the eternal sunshine of Divinity, dwells

that pure and immortal spirit whose rejected tenement, cold and

motionless, we have assembled to consign to the silent house appointed

for all living. Our tears fall on the earth, but our smiles are

reflected in Heaven!”

Amongst the many epitaphs and fragmentary poetical tributes elicited by

the death of this Vicar, the subjoined may be taken as a very fair

example. With what has been presented elsewhere, it will no doubt

satisfy the reader that the tropical muse seldom rises to lofty flights.

EPITAFIO

_A la muerte del muy illustre y venerable Prelado, el Señor Presbitero

Dr. Don Desiderio de la Quadra, Vicario Capitular de esta Diócesis._

Despues de tantos años de virtud,

El feudo pagas cual mortal viviente,

Para acercaros al trono Omnipotente

De aquel Dios de eterna beatitud:

Allí, allí la inmensa multitud

De santos que te adoran reverentes,

Abriendo campo à tu espirítu inocente,

Ponen en tus manos sonoro laúd.

Goza esa vida inmortal que te deseo

Al mismo tiempo que tu muerte llóro;

Y mientras entre los justos yo te veo,

Disfruta cantando en alto coro

Safírica corona por troféo

De Opalo una palma, una Silla de oro.

Leon, Octubre 5 de 1849.

The funeral of the Vicar was far more solemn than any other which I

witnessed in the country. In most instances the funeral ceremony has few

of those gloomy accessories which our customs prescribe as no more than

decorous. Youth, innocence, and beauty, like ornaments on the brow of

age, or on the withered limbs of deformity, serve only to heighten the

terrors of our grim conception of death, the gloomy and remorseless

tyrant who gloats, fiend-like, over the victims of his skeleton arm.

Theirs is a happier conception. Death mercifully relieves the infant

from the sorrows and the dangers of life; and withers the rose on the

cheeks of youth, that it may retain its bloom and fragrance in the more

genial atmosphere of Heaven. The tear of grief falls only for those

whose long contact with the world has effaced the stamp of divinity,

whose matured passions have cankered the heart, and whose misdirected

ambitions have diverted the aspirations of the soul and the energies of

the mind from heaven to earth, from the grandeurs of Eternity to the

frivolities of Time.

The youngest daughter of the Licenciado D. died and was buried in the

latter part of October. She was young, scarce sixteen, and the idolized

child of her parents. Her funeral might have been her bridal, in its

total freedom from outward manifestations of grief. The procession

formed before my window. First were musicians playing a cheerful strain,

and next the priests chaunting a song of triumph. After them, on the

shoulders of young men, was borne a litter, covered with white satin and

loaded with orange branches, amidst which, dressed in white as for a

festival, her head wreathed with pure white flowers, and holding in her

hands a silver cross, was the marble form of the dead girl. The bereaved

parents, the sisters and relations of the deceased followed; their eyes

were tearless, and though the traces of sorrow were visible on their

faces, yet over all there was an expression of hope, and of faith in the

teachings of Him who has declared “Blessed are the pure in heart, for

they shall see God.”

The funerals of infants are much the same. The body is invariably

dressed in white, and covered with flowers. Men firing rockets, and

musicians playing lively airs, precede the corpse, and the parents and

relatives follow. The rationale of this apparent want of feeling is to

be found in the Romish doctrine of baptismal regeneration, according to

which the departed spirit being in heaven, there is more cause for

happiness than grief.

When an adult is dangerously ill, or dying, a priest is called, who goes

for the Viaticum. An altar is hastily erected in the sick chamber; a

crucifix is placed upon it, surrounded with lighted candles and flowers,

a place being left for the _Costodia_, a vessel generally of gold and

richly jewelled, containing the consecrated wafer. This is brought by a

priest in a litter or carriage, surrounded by soldiers and boys bearing

lighted candles, and preceded by music,—sometimes consisting only of a

single violin. The people kneel as the procession passes through the

streets. Arrived at the sick chamber, the sacrament and the last rites

of the church are administered to the dying one, whose friends,

gathering close around the bed, whisper “Jesus te ampara,” “Jesus te

auxilie,” “Maria te favoresca,”—Jesus protect thee, Jesus help thee,

Maria favor thee,—and then, when they suppose the final struggle

transpiring, they ejaculate, “Jesus, Jesus, Jesus!”

“Among the more refined inhabitants,” says Mr. Crowe, in his interesting

book on Guatemala, (and the same practice is followed throughout the

country,) “after the coffin, covered with black velvet, has been removed

from between the gigantic candles which cast a pale glare upon it in the

sombre apartment, it is followed by a long train of friends on foot,

bearing lighted candles, to the church, and then to the cemetery. When

the corpse has been finally deposited, the friends return slowly and in

groups to the house of mourning, where the chief mourner has remained,

and is now waiting to receive them in a large room or hall, hung with

black cloth, at one end of which he sits, supported on his left or right

by two near kinsmen or special friends. The visitors sit silently before

him for a few minutes, on seats which are placed for them on either side

of the room, and having thus manifested their participation in the grief

of the family, they rise, one after another, gently press the hand of

the chief mourner, and, if they are intimate friends, perhaps add a word

or two of condolence. They then retire, and are succeeded by others in

the same manner.”[23]

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Footnote 23:

Gospel in Central America, p. 373.

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There is, however, much that is repugnant in the burials, particularly

as practised in Leon. Near most of the towns is what is called the Campo

Santo, an enclosed consecrated cemetery, in which the dead are buried

upon the payment of a small sum, which is devoted to keeping the grounds

in order. But in Leon the practice of burying in the churches has always

prevailed, and is perpetuated through the influence of the priests, who

derive a considerable fee from each burial. The consequence is, that the

ground within and around the churches has become (if the term is

admissible) saturated with the dead. The burials are made according to

the amount paid to the church, for from ten to twenty-five years, at the

end of which time the bones, with the earth around them, are removed and

sold to the manufacturers of nitre! The government has opposed the

entire practice for many years, and during the period of the cholera

prohibited it. But the instability of affairs in the country has been

such, that the authorities have hesitated to provoke the hostility of

the entire priesthood by putting a peremptory end to the practice.

Coffins are rarely used. The corpse is placed at the bottom of the

grave, the earth rudely thrown in, and beaten hard with heavy rammers,

with a degree of indifference, not to say brutality, which is really

shocking, and which I never permitted myself to witness a second time.

Amongst the sources of revenue to which the priesthood has adhered with

greatest tenacity, and the gradual abolition of which is one of the

leading measures of the Government policy of Nicaragua, is what is

called the _capellania_, or lien on property, conveyed to the priests by

proprietors at their death, to secure certain masses or other priestly

interpositions on behalf of their souls, or conveyed to churches for the

same laudable objects. Thus Don Fulano finding his end approaching,

gives to his priest a lien of twenty dollars a year on his estate, in

consideration of which a certain number of masses shall be said for him

annually. Next year the Doña Fulano dies, and, not to be outdone in

piety, she secures to her favorite church another annual sum to be

invested in “villainous saltpetre” for the glorification of her

protecting Santa, and the benefit of her own “alma.” It will readily be

seen that the continuance of this process through a series of years

must, in the end, seriously embarrass the real estate of the country,

and prove an effectual check to the improvement of that species of

property. Thus the most desirable portions of Leon, once covered with

squares of palaces, are now waste and unoccupied, in consequence of the

accumulation of the capellanias, which exceed in amount the market value

of the ground.

During my stay in Leon, and in spite of the opposition of those

interested in maintaining them, the Legislative Chambers decreed the

abolition of ten per cent. of the capellanias, excepting those dedicated

to educational purposes. Previously, I believe, fifteen per cent. had

been appropriated by the Government, and offered for commutation at a

nominal sum. The entire extinction of the capellanias, and the release

of the property which they have so long burthened and rendered

valueless, will be the ultimate and happy result of these advances.

I have said that the masses of the people still cherish something of

their original religious bigotry. It is, nevertheless, fast giving way

to more liberal sentiments, and no objection is made to foreigners on

the score of religion, so long as they preserve a decent respect for the

ceremonies of the church, and do not outrage the prejudices which

education and custom have created, and which are no more numerous nor

stronger than with us, although they have a somewhat different

direction. That there is much of ignorance and superstition amongst the

people, is unfortunately true; nor is the fact at all surprising, in

consideration of their antecedents, and the circumstances under which

they have been placed.[24]

-----

Footnote 24:

An English Protestant Missionary, Mr. F. Crowe, who was established in

Guatemala for some years, until driven out by the servile Government,

has recently published a work entitled the “Gospel in Central

America,” in which he observes:

“Of the fact that infidelity has spread extensively in Central

America, and particularly so amongst the very classes upon which

Romanism had formerly the strongest hold, there can be no doubt. It is

proved by the almost total abandonment of the outward observances of

Popery by the better educated amongst the Ladinos, and, in spite of

their political tendencies, by the whites and pure Creoles also. With

the exception of the more weak amongst the women and children,

scarcely any of these classes are now to be seen attending mass or

confession, and other requirements are generally neglected by them.

Numbers of infidel books are to be found in the libraries, and in the

hands of all classes and sexes. So strongly are the minds of these

classes imbued with deistical and atheistical notions, that it becomes

apparent, and is unblushingly avowed in general conversation. Nay,

some of the more candid among the priests openly espouse these

notions.”—p. 257.

Some of the priests, this author adds, ridicule the pretended

authority of the Pope, and rejoice at the emancipation of the people

from the Church of Rome. Mr. Crowe rejoices also, at the success of

infidelity over Romanism, as likely to result in good. “The change

from Popery, or any other analogous system,” he writes, “to the entire

rejection of revealed religion, is one which believers in Divine

Revelation may hail with satisfaction, if they be prepared to take

advantage of it; for it breaks up prejudices of education, leads to

thought and inquiry, and sometimes to a sincere and earnest search

after truth!”

-----

It is somewhat difficult to ascertain how far the faith of the better

classes in papal infallibility, and other matters to which an apparent

entire deference is accorded, really extends. We can hardly conceive

that the following antiquated indulgence should be posted upon every

door in the houses of the most intelligent families, except in politic

conformity to prejudices, not shared by those families themselves, but

which they do not care to oppose. Yet it met my eye almost everywhere,

in the houses alike of the rich and the poor, of the Indian and the

Caballero:—

ALABADO SEA EL

SANTISIMO

SACRAMENTO

DEL ALTAR!

Nuestro Santìsimo Padre Paulo V. de felìz memoria, en su Bula de 17.

de Abril despachada en Roma del año del Señor de 1612, concediò

indulgencia plenaria, y remision de la tercera parte de los pecados, á

cualquiera persona que en su casa tuviere escrito donde su pueda lér ☞

LA ANTERIOR JACULATORIA; ☜ y la misma indulgencia plenaria, todas las

veces que lo leyéren, y el que no supiere lér, veneráre el escrito.

_Copiado del original de indulgencias._

PRAISE BE TO THE

MOST HOLY SACRAMENT OF THE ALTAR!

“Our most holy Father Paul V. of happy memory, in his Bull from Rome,

April 17, in the year of our Lord 1612, conceded plenary indulgence

and remission of the third part of his sins to whoever should write in

his house where it might be read ☞THE PRECEDING EJACULATION☜; and the

same plenary indulgence every time he should read it, or if he should

not be able to read, every time he should venerate the writing,” i.

e., look upon it with veneration.

“Bendito y alabado sea el Santo Sacramento del Altar,” Blessed and

praised be the holy Sacrament of the Altar, is the common ejaculation of

the servant who in the evening, first brings lighted candles into the

occupied rooms of the various houses. It is uttered mechanically, in a

drawling, nasal tone, and was formerly always responded to by the

members of the family; but like many other customs, the latter part of

the practice has now become obsolete. The recipient of a favor

acknowledges it by “Dios se lo pague,” God repay you; if an engagement

is made, it is with the qualification, “si Dios quiere,” if God wills;

and when a bond is entered into, it is always with the reservation,

“Primero Dios,” i. e., if my first duty to God will permit. The “higher

law” is always recognized, in form if not in spirit. “Dios sobre todos,”

God over all, is the commonest of proverbs.

The public Penitencias, or Penances, afford striking illustrations of

the strength of the popular superstitions, and of the priestly

influence. I witnessed one of these, shortly after my arrival in Leon.

It consisted of a long procession of men and boys, one or two hundred in

number, barefooted and stripped to the waist, their heads and faces

covered with veils so as to prevent recognition, who marched through the

public streets, from one church to another, flagellating themselves with

raw hide thongs. They were preceded by a life-size figure of Christ on

the cross, a score of musicians, and a crowd of priests and women, (all

of the latter barefooted and some bearing heavy crosses on their

shoulders,) who chanted prayers, while the penitents beat time with the

thongs over their own shoulders. Each one carried a little cross before

him in his hand, with his head bent forward as if in earnest

contemplation of the sacred symbol. It was a singular spectacle; for

there were black bodies, and brown, and white bodies, and yellow, and

the sharp strokes of the thongs in the pauses of the slow and mournful

music, fairly made the flesh of the spectator creep. There was, however,

no special occasion for sympathy, for each penitent had it in his power

to graduate the force of his own blows to his own notions of the

enormity of his moral offences. Some laid it on gently,—moderate

sinners!—merely as a matter of form; but there were others who punished

themselves lustily, and drew blood from their quivering flesh at every

blow, which ran down to their very heels, and purpled the ground where

they trod.

It seems almost incredible that these heathenish practices, only one

remove from human sacrifices, should yet be perpetuated amongst nations

claiming to be civilized. Still, when we reflect that fasts and other

mortifications of the body are prescribed by the rituals of our own

churches, and proclaimed from the executive chair of our own nation, we

ought not to be surprised at any manifestation of human folly, or wonder

that the popular conception of God is not yet purified from the horrible

and detestable features with which it was invested in the darkest ages

of the world, and in the most debased stages of the human mind. The

belief that the all-good and omnipotent Ruler of the Universe can be

pleased with the self-inflicted punishment of his creatures, whether it

be through fasting or flagellation, differs in no respect from that

which actuates the frantic Hindoo, who prostrates himself before the

crushing wheels of Jaggenath, or that inflamed the poor Mexican, who

offered his willing breast to the knife of the Aztec priest, that his

palpitating heart might bathe the lips of the idol which was the visible

representation of his sanguinary God!

There were other Penitencias, not public, but which were perhaps more

severe. A hundred or more of the penitents are sometimes locked within a

church, where they remain for nine days, sleeping but four hours out of

the twenty-four, and eating but once in that period. The rest of the

time is divided between the various ceremonies prescribed by the rigid

rules of the penitencia, upon their knees, or prone on the rough floor

of the dark church in which they are confined. While I resided near the

Eglesia de la Merced, one of these penitencias took place, and I was

several times awakened in the dead of night by the wailings of the

penitents, mingling harshly with the low and cheerful melodies of that

Nature which harmonizes with its great Author, and upon whose laws

kingcraft and priestcraft, the world over, and in every age, have waged

a constant and most unnatural and unholy war. The horrible doctrine of

original sin, and the efficacy of austerities, penances, and

immolations, parts of one system, find the best evidence of their truth

in the fact of their existence amongst men! I saw the enthusiasts when

they came out of the church, pale, haggard, and filthy; some, in fact,

so exhausted that they could not walk without assistance, and who

tottered from the scenes of their debasement to beds of sickness and

death.

Very novel penances are sometimes prescribed by the priests by way of

atonement for individual iniquities. The Padre Cartine was particularly

ingenious and happy in imposing them. Lazy fellows and _bon vivants_, to

whom he thought exercise and fasting would prove beneficial, he sent

bare-footed and alone to El Viejo, or some place at a distance, under

the restriction to speak to no human being on the way, nor to eat, nor

yet to sleep, until their return. A heavy stone, rough and angular, had

sometimes to be carried on the naked shoulders of the penitent, or a

cross of heavy wood, according to the more or less heinous nature of the

poor devil’s offences. Carpenters, masons, and all other valuable

sinners, whose labor could be turned to good account, the Padre set to

work in repairing or improving his church and the buildings attached to

it, and never failed to put the good workmen “well in for it.”

Occasionally he got hold of a stupid fellow who failed to perform a

profitable day’s labor. In such cases the Padre had a whip, made of the

skin of the _dante_, or tapir, which he scrupled not to apply to the

delinquent’s back, for the benefit of his soul, and the acceleration of

the particular job in hand. And it is reported that these applications

are sometimes accompanied with terms more forcible than complimentary;

but I don’t vouch for the truth of that.

For one or two months during my stay in Leon, the Padre had under his

surveillance a priest, suspended for licentious conduct, with whom he

was extremely rigorous. I was an accidental witness of his severity on

one occasion, when the Host was passing. The suspended Padre, in common

with all the people, came to the door, but instead of bending like the

rest on the hard threshold, he knelt comfortably in a soft-bottomed

chair. The indignant monk saw the dodge, and rising hastily, with a

vigorous blow of his foot knocked the chair from underneath the

delinquent, who came down with a force which must have jarred every bone

in his sinful body. The course of fasting and prayer through which that

priest was “put” by the Padre Cartine, if report speaks true,—midnight

vigils, and noonday masses,—would have reformed Silenus, and made a

saint of Bacchus.

Nicaragua and Costa Rica together constitute a Diocess of a very ancient

date. It was organized as early as 1526. For the period intervening

between 1832 and 1849, the Bishop’s chair was vacant; but in the latter

year Don GEORGE VITERI Y UNGO, once Secretary of State of Guatemala, and

subsequently Bishop of San Salvador, received the appointment, and is

now in discharge of its functions. I have already described him as a man

of great intelligence, and polished manners. He has travelled much, and

never fails to leave a favorable impression on the minds of foreigners.

Yet in the country he is accounted an _intrigante_, and does not seem to

enjoy the full confidence of the leading inhabitants, who nevertheless

treat him with all respect and courtesy. While Bishop of San Salvador,

he is said to have taken an undue interest in political affairs, and

this was the cause of his deposition from that diocess; for the people

of San Salvador are quite as liberal in religion as politics, and will

tolerate no interference in public affairs by the clergy, as such. They

nevertheless concede to them the utmost latitude as individuals, and

while making no distinctions in their favor, make none against them.

In respect to Education, both amongst the clergy and the people of

Nicaragua, little need be said, except that the standard is exceedingly

low. I spare myself the painful necessity of writing upon the subject,

by translating the following impartial passages from a private letter on

this point, addressed to me by one of the best informed and patriotic

citizens of Leon. A knowledge of their own deficiencies and wants, by

any people, is indispensable to secure a remedy; and the fact that some

of the best men in Nicaragua are looking the evils of ignorance full in

the face, is one of the best signs in the horoscope of the country.

“Education in Nicaragua,” says my correspondent, “is generally much

neglected; particularly in the departments of Chontales and Segovia,

where there are some towns without a single teacher of any grade. Here

the elements of education are only taught, if taught at all, by the

fathers of families to their children, in the evening before going to

bed; but this instruction seldom reaches beyond learning them to repeat

their catechism. In these places, as also in some others where there are

teachers, it is a common thing for parents to send their children to the

house of some poor neighbor, where they are taught the catechism, and to

make certain pot-hooks, called writing. These apologies for teachers

have no recompense beyond an occasional small present. The mode adopted

by them is to repeat the lesson once or twice _viva voce_, with the

children; and their principal occupation consists in permitting the

latter to do what they please, and in assisting them in doing it!

“In the towns where there are teachers, there are seldom more than one

or two public schools; in the larger places there are, perhaps, a few

more, but unfortunately all of pretty nearly the same character with

those above described. In these schools are taught only the fundamental

doctrines of Christianity, reading and writing; nor is this done in

accordance with any good system, but generally by a process which is

little better than a burlesque. The lesson is repeated after the master,

simultaneously by the whole school, and it is difficult to say which

shouts loudest, the master or the scholars; but it is always easy to

tell the proximity of a schoolhouse, from the noise. The localities of

these schools are generally bad and filthy, as is also the clothing of

the scholars, which often consists of nothing more than a shirt. In some

of the towns, as Masaya, Managua, and Chinandega, the public schools are

filled to overflowing, and as each one has no more than a single

teacher, he can only bestow a very superficial attention upon the

individual scholars. In these towns there are also some higher schools,

in which Latin is taught, after the old method, painful alike to teacher

and student, and generally with no result except the knowledge that

Señor Fulano has studied this language for so many years! There are

also, in these towns, phantom classes in what is called Philosophy, the

extent of whose acquirements consists in studying badly, and

understanding worse, some paragraphs in Lugdunensis.

“Besides their public schools, both Granada and Leon have each a

University. That of Leon is oldest, having been founded in the year

1675.

“In these Universities are taught the following branches: Latin and

Spanish Grammar, Philosophy, Civil and Canonical Law, and Theology.

Lately a class in English has been organized in that of Leon; and a

class in both English and French in that of Granada. Of Mathematics and

other cognate branches nothing is taught, nor scarcely anything known.

The authority in Spanish is Alemany; in Latin, Nebrisa; in Philosophy,

Lugdunensis; in Civil Law, Salas; in Canonical Law, Devoti; in Theology,

Larraga. The time devoted to these studies is, to Spanish, Grammar, and

Latin, two years and a half; to Philosophy, two years; Civil and

Canonical Law, and Theology, three years. But many have not the patience

to go through the prescribed time, and leaping over these various

branches of study, succeed in securing their titles. There are priests,

in orders, who have never so much as read the Padre Larraga!

“In order to obtain the degrees and secure the tassel, it is not

necessary to know much; it is enough to have a general idea or two, to

stand well with the professors, be able to pay the fees punctually, to

spread a good table of refreshments, and to have a blazing display of

fireworks. I have known instances in which the candidate did not answer

well more than a single question, and yet obtained unanimously the

degree which he sought. There are more Bachelors than men; Doctors swarm

everywhere; and there are families of wealth and influence in which the

tassel goes (practically) by descent!

“The professors of Languages and Civil Law in 1850, in Leon, were very

good; but the professor in the latter department, occupied with other

matters, has permitted his place to be very poorly filled by certain

Bachelors. In fact, all the professors do but little; principally

because their salaries are insignificant in amount, seldom exceeding

$200 per annum. Their lectures are got through with very rapidly, rarely

occupying more than an hour each, and are scarcely ever illustrated, or

enforced by examples in point.

“Concerning the University of Granada, I am not well informed, but it is

doubtless on about the same footing with that of Leon; or, if any

comparison may be instituted, something worse.

“To the defects in the system of Education in Nicaragua is to be

ascribed, in great part, the troubles with which the State has been

afflicted. There is nothing practical in the lessons which are taught in

the schools; the studies are all abstract, and the fixedness of

character and liberality of views which follow from a knowledge of the

present condition and relations of the world, an understanding of modern

sciences, Geography, Chemistry, Mineralogy, Mathematics, Engineering,

etc., etc., are never attained. The men of education, so called, are

therefore mere creatures of circumstances and impulses, in common with

the most ignorant portion of the population, and fully as vacillating in

their ideas. Their education is just sufficient to give them power to do

mischief, instead performing the legitimate office of truly

comprehensive acquirements, that of a balance-wheel. What may be called

the moral effect of an education, that which contributes to form the

character of the man and mould it upon a just model, is wanting in the

system, or rather no-system, not only of Nicaragua, but of all the other

Spanish American States.

“In Nicaragua, therefore, in the absence of teachers, methods, books,

instruments, and of nearly all the elements of teaching, there is

nothing which can properly be called education.[25] Not because there

are no latent capacities or dispositions for learning amongst the

people; nor do I mean to say that there is a total absence of really

cultivated and well-educated men. On the contrary, there are a number

who have had opportunities of acquiring education through the assistance

of private teachers, or who have perfected themselves abroad; but these

are lost in the mass of ignorance and shallow acquirements which

surround them.

-----

Footnote 25:

“The books employed,” says Mr. Crowe, “besides the gloomy character of

their contents, are in bulk sufficient to discourage the most

enterprising child. They are four or five in number, consisting of

heavy volumes, which make an antique collection, heavy and dry enough

to discourage adults. First ‘La Cartilla,’ containing the alphabet,

the forms of prayer, and the commandments of the Church, with no

attempt at gradation. The second, ‘El Canon,’ the third, ‘El

Catecismo,’ and fourth, ‘El Ramillete.’ All these, which are much

larger than the first, contain theological definitions, digests of

doctrines, creeds, holy legends, and devotional formulas, addressed to

the Virgin and the Saints. Through every one of these the unhappy

scholar is doomed to wade from beginning to end; and so deep is his

aversion to the task, and so great is the triumph when a child has

overcome one of these obstacles to his progress, that the event is

actually celebrated in his family by feasting.”—p. 287.

-----

. “In Leon, I may add, there are ten or a dozen schools, in some of

which there is an average daily attendance of two hundred scholars. The

highest pay of teachers is ten dollars per month.”

But notwithstanding the general deficiency in education, and the means

of acquiring it, there exists a most laudable bn p3820.png ambition to

secure its benefits. The States of Nicaragua, San Salvador, and Costa

Rica, offer the largest encouragement to the establishment of schools of

every grade. Under the old Confederation, during the dominance of the

Liberals, the most effective means were adopted to educate the people.

The officers of the army and the subordinates of the Government, when

not occupied with the immediate duties of their stations, opened free

schools in the barracks of the soldiery, in the offices of customs, and

the rooms of the general and local courts. The house of the National

Government, at the close of office hours, became an academy. But the

system of education, as all the other plans of improvement originating

with the Liberals, were suspended during the disturbances created by the

Serviles, and overthrown whenever and wherever the latter attained

ascendancy. In the new career now opening before Central America, the

subject of education claims and no doubt will receive the first

attention of the respective States. But nothing beneficial can be done

without a complete abandonment of the old systems of teaching—old

authorities and books, and the substitution of others adapted to the

age, and the state of general knowledge amongst civilized nations. If

creeds and catechisms are still required, let them be assigned their

proper time and place; they constitute no part of an education, and are

chilling and oppressing in their influences on the youthful mind. The

sooner this fact is not only understood, but acted upon, in Central

America, the better for its people.

Nicaragua · 第 14 / 26 章