MAGNIFICENT VIEWS OF SCENERY—“RELOX DEL SOL”—JOHN JONES AND
ANTIQUITIES—AN “ALARM;” REVOLVERS, AND A RESCUE—DISTANT BELLS—DON
PEDRO BLANCO—MANAGUA—ANOTHER GRAND ENTREE—OUR QUARTERS—SUPPER
SERVICE—ENACTING THE LION—VIRTUES OF AGUARDIENTE—AN “OBSEQUIO” OR
TORCH-LIGHT PROCESSION IN HONOR OF THE UNITED STATES—A NATIONAL
ANTHEM—NIGHT WITH THE FLEAS—FOURTH OF JULY AND A PATRIOTIC
BREAKFAST—SAINT JONATHAN—LEAVE MANAGUA—MATEARES—PRIVILEGES OF A
“COMPADRE”—LAKE OF MANAGUA—A MAGNIFICENT VIEW—THE VOLCANO OF
MOMOTOMBO—A SOLITARY RIDE—GEOLOGICAL PUZZLE—NAGAROTE—THE
POSADA—MULES ABANDONED—A SICK CALIFORNIAN—DINNER AT A PADRE’S—THE
SANTA ANITA—VIRTUES OF A PIECE OF STAMPED PAPER—A STORM IN THE
FOREST—PUEBLO NUEVO—FIVE DAUGHTERS IN SATIN SHOES—UNBROKEN
SLUMBERS—ADVANCE ON LEON—AXUSCO—A FAIRY GLEN—THE GREAT PLAIN OF
LEON—A “TOUCH” OF POETRY—MEET THE AMERICAN CONSUL—A
PREDICAMENT—CAVALCADE OF RECEPTION—NEW ILLUSTRATION OF REPUBLICAN
SIMPLICITY—EL CONVENTO—A METAMORPHOSIS—THE BISHOP OF
NICARAGUA—FORREST, MISS CLIFTON, MR. CLAY—CRITICISM ON ORATORY—NINE
VOLCANOES IN A ROW—DISTANT VIEW OF THE GREAT CATHEDRAL—THE
CITY—IMPOSING DEMONSTRATIONS—THE GRAND PLAZA—A PANTOMIMIC SPEECH AND
REPLY—THE LADIES, “GOD BLESS THEM!”—HOUSE OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL—END
OF THE CEREMONIES—SELF-CONGRATULATIONS THEREON—A SERENADE—MARTIAL
ASPECT OF THE CITY—TROUBLE ANTICIPATED—PRECAUTIONS OF THE
GOVERNMENT.
Beyond the “mal pais” the road passed over a beautiful undulating
country, with occasional open, grassy spaces, dotted here and there with
little clumps of bushes and trees, from whence the eye caught glimpses
of the distant lakes and mountains. For many miles, scoria and
disentegrating lava showed the extent of volcanic action in ancient
times; in fact, for the whole distance to Managua, volcanic traces and
products were to be seen on every hand. Half way between Masaya and
Managua we came suddenly upon a large, erect stone, which, at first
glance, I supposed was one of the “piedras antiguas” of the country; a
veritable monolith, like those discovered by Mr. Stephens at Copan. It
however proved to be “un relox del sol,” an ancient sun dial, erected by
the early Spaniards for the double purpose of marking the distance and
the hours. There had been an inscription upon it, but it was obliterated
now, and a rude cross had been deeply graven in its place. I dismounted
to examine it more closely, and found “John Jones” scratched upon one of
its sides. Ubiquitous “John Jones!” He had been convicted of bigamy, and
sent to the State prison but two days before I left New York! W.
inquired if “Jones” was an Aztec name, and I felt cheap enough about
“monuments,” and was mounting again in great disgust, when we were all
startled by the sudden discharge of a pistol, in a dark ravine which we
had just passed, followed by a confused shout, and another discharge,
and then a volley in quick succession. An attack, in the present
unsettled state of the country, was by no means an impossibility; and
the firing continuing, we turned our horses’ heads and galloped back,
weapons in hand, to the rescue. A moment brought us within view of half
a dozen of our party, their horses plunging in dire confusion, while
their riders fired their revolvers with the greatest rapidity into the
forest. Glancing amongst the trees, we discovered the enemy, a troop
perhaps thirty or forty strong, crashing amongst the bushes, in full
retreat. It was a squadron of large, yellow monkeys upon which the party
had fired, in frolicksome mood, with a design rather to alarm their
comrades than injure the monkeys, who escaped with no farther damage
than a prodigious fright, sufficient to last them for the remainder of
their natural lives. The cacchinatory exercises following upon such a
feat over, we all moved on together. The road was deeply shaded, but
broad and smooth; and, as the sun went down, conversation gradually
ceased, and the horses, invigorated by the cool atmosphere, all fell
into a rapid pace, the clatter of their hoofs alone disturbing the
silence of the evening.
Hark, a bell! the sound vibrating even into the depths of the leafy
forest! It is the _oracion_, and we are near Managua. But it was nearly
an hour before we emerged into the open fields surrounding the city, and
then it was so dark that we could discern nothing except the lights of
the houses, and the occasional gleaming of the lake beyond.
Here we were met by Don Pedro Blanco, to whom I was specially
recommended by Don Frederico. He had come to put his “pobre casa” at my
disposition. Don Pedro was for doing things in a grand way, and
accordingly desired us to wait for all the stragglers to come up, so as
to make an imposing entrée, which we did, at a round pace, to the great
alarm of the infantile, and the utter indignation of the canine portion
of the population. It was too dark to see much of the town, and I only
remember interminable streets lined with huts and low houses, a big
church with a spectral white archway in front, and a great plaza flanked
by two or three two-story buildings, with another large church in its
centre. All this was out of our way, for Pedro was determined to impress
us with the magnitude of the town, and I began to think that it had no
end, when suddenly Pedro turned short, ducked his head, and dashed
beneath the “Porteria” into the _patio_ or court yard of his own house,
whilst our escort filed off, at a tearing rate, for the public posada.
Fortunate escort!
Don Pedro’s house was not the most aristocratic in the place, nor yet
the cleanest, although his wife was amongst the fattest and fairest. It
had but two rooms, and one of these was a _tienda_, or store, where our
hostess dispensed candles and candy, dry goods and dulces, toys and
tobacco, vegetables and medicines, in quantities to suit purchasers.
Here a couple of new hammocks were forthwith swung, into which we rolled
without ceremony, and with all the satisfaction of tired men. Pedro’s
grand _entrée_ had almost finished us; but he had considerately ordered
supper before leaving home, and I almost forgave him the awful trot he
had given us, when I saw the cloth spread and the savory dishes make
their appearance one by one. M., who had never before ridden two
consecutive miles on horseback, and who, thoroughly “used up,” had lain
like a log in his hammock, began now to show some signs of life, and
even sat up and looked voraciously at the table. I asked for a basin of
water before sitting down, which Don Pedro produced at once, but
protested against our washing ourselves then, as it was “muy malo,” and
would bring on the _calentura_, or fever. This superstition, I
afterwards found, was not only general amongst the natives, but also
amongst foreigners resident in the country. I however never regarded it,
and yet escaped the calentura.
Pedro’s supper was well enough served, only there were neither knives
nor forks. Ben supplied these from his _alforjas_, and we got on very
well, or rather might have done so; but before we had fairly taken the
edge off our appetites we heard a great uproar in the direction of the
plaza, succeeded by the firing of guns and the whizzing discharge of
bombas. I glanced round at our host, who so far from exhibiting any
alarm seemed to be mightily exultant. I had made up my mind to be
surprised at nothing, and so asked no questions. Meantime the tumult
increased, and the squeaking of violins was to be heard in the pauses of
the shouting and firing. By-and-by we distinguished “_Vivan los Estados
Unidos!_” “_Vivan los Americanos del Norte!_” and the appalling
consciousness was forced upon us that we were to be lionized forthwith,
and supper but half finished! I appealed to Pedro to shut the door and
say we were ill, and would see the people in the morning; but he either
did not understand, or affected not to do so, and before I could
explain, the crowd was at the entrance, and pouring into our apartment.
The alcaldes came first, and a dozen fiddlers followed. Then came the
people in solid column, while the outsiders kept up a perfect storm of
vivas,—their upturned, swarthy faces looking singularly wild and
forbidding under the light of their torches. Not a tithe was able to
enter, yet every one seemed determined to find a place inside, and
crowded one upon the other to such a degree that we should have been
suffocated outright, had not the alcaldes formed a cordon around us, and
kept off the crowd with their canes. The principal or first alcalde,
made a speech, full of welcome, and well spiced with patriotism, in
which he called us, and all the people of the United States,
collectively and individually, friends and brothers, and a great many
other endearing names, which I have forgotten; and then everybody wanted
to shake hands, and thrust them forward over the heads and under the
arms of the front rank, a hundred at a time. But as our visitors
generally did not seem to have any clear conception as to which of the
party was the illustrious object of their homage, I instructed my
companions to shake all the hands within their reach, and pass the
owners on. In this wise, and by causing Pedro to invite the entire crowd
to drink my health, at my expense, at the next _pulperia_, I finally
succeeded in clearing the house,—but our chocolate was cold, and some of
our worthy visitors had availed themselves of the “noise and confusion”
to pocket all the baked meats. And as we sat disconsolately waiting for
more to be cooked, we voted the system of lionizing a bore, and M.
quoted Shakspeare:
“Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown,”
with variations suited to our present condition.
The idea of getting the crowd off to the pulperia we all thought was a
particularly happy one; but the sequel proved otherwise. In half an hour
our admiring friends, greatly augmented in numbers, all returned; and if
they were fervent and enthusiastic before, what were they now? I
appeared on the steps of the house and bowed low, and retired. But bows
wouldn’t answer. Nothing short of a grand procession would furnish an
adequate vent to the overflowing feelings of the citizens. Pedro begged
for my flag, while messengers were despatched to the Californians at the
posada, to solicit their participation in the grand “obsequio.” Pending
the completion of the arrangements, the crowd continued to increase,
completely choking up the street for an entire block. The confusion was
dire; the violinists played as if working for their lives, while bombas
were let off as fast as they could be collected. Finally, the
Californians, refreshed by an ample supper, made their appearance, and
at once fell into the spirit of the affair. The flag was unfurled at the
head of the column, surrounded by an armed guard of honor; next came the
officers and the _musicos_, and then, as the programmes at home say,
“the citizens generally.” The procession marched through all the
principal streets, hurrahing at every corner for “El Norte,” the “bello
sexo,” “Gen. Taylor,” the “Supreme Government,” in fact for nearly
everything, but particularly for the “glorious flag of the North.” The
national anthem was sung in the plaza, the multitude joining in the
chorus with almost frantic fervor, and then the Californians were called
upon to sing the national air of the United States, but being unable to
give it to their own satisfaction, they sang “Dearest May” instead, with
great applause, and as Pedro afterwards told us, “con mucho espiritu,”
with great spirit!
It was full midnight when the “obsequio” was brought to a close, and our
dispositions made for the night. And such a night! I had now my first
introduction to the kind of bed in common use in the country, and which
I verily believe was instituted as a punishment for the sins of the
people. It consists of an ox-hide drawn, while green, tightly over a
stout framework of wood, and afterwards elaborately polished, so as to
look like the head of a drum. When dry, a slab of marble is a soft and
downy thing in comparison with it. It was on such a bed as this, with a
smooth and gaudily colored “petate,” or mat, and a single sheet spread
over the hide, that I was invited to repose. I examined this new
instrument of torture narrowly, and finally turned in, with heavy
misgivings, particularly as I found that Pedro’s mansion was fall of
fleas, which had already set my nerves on a gallop. I was weary enough,
but it was impossible to sleep—the fleas came in hungry squadrons, and
the hide bed grew momentarily more rigid and obdurate. I felt my own
pulse; it was up to the fever rate, and I began to wish Don Pedro and
Don Frederico to regions unmentionable for getting me into such a
scrape. A bed on the ground, with my saddle for a pillow and the sky for
a roof, would have been luxury itself, compared with this. I got up,
unbarred the door, and went out on the corridor. The cool evening air
was most welcome, and I vowed audibly not to go inside again. So I
roused Ben, who strung me a hammock between the columns of the corridor,
in which I succeeded in getting an hour or two of slumber.
When morning came, I told Don Pedro that it was the anniversary of
American Independence, and that it was meet and becoming to breakfast
with the rest of the Americans at the posada. And leaving Ben to bring
round the animals and baggage, I got away as fast as possible from Don
Pedro’s hospitable but awfully flea-infested dwelling. I found the
posada a very nice place indeed, and had the satisfaction of learning
that each one of the Californians had had a comfortable _cot_ or camp
bed, with only a reasonable amount of fleas.
We all breakfasted together, and drank patriotic toasts, and sang Yankee
Doodle, and were altogether appropriately patriotic, to the great
delectation of the quidnuncs of Managua, who gathered in crowds around
the open doors and windows. They were properly instructed as to the
nature of “the day we celebrated,” that it was the great feast of St.
Jonathan; whereupon they hurrahed for the saint, and even proposed to
ring the church bells in his honor. But fearful of another “obsequio,”
we discouraged this idea, and made all haste to get off as quietly as
possible.
At eight o’clock we were in the saddle. It was a gorgeous morning, and
the lake of Managua flashed brightly in our eyes as we rode through the
grand plaza. The opposite shore was dim and distant, but high and rough
in outline, while nearer, a volcanic ridge, or succession of volcanic
peaks, projected boldly into the lake, forming a sort of bay, at the
head of which Managua was situated. A broad, well-beaten, and level
avenue led out from the city, lined on both sides by forests, into which
paths diverged in every direction. The road was filled with men and
women going to their day’s labor in the fields; and from their cheerful,
frank air and manner, it was easy to see that we were beyond “war’s
alarms.” At the distance of two leagues we came to the foot of the ridge
which I have already mentioned, rising abruptly before us. Here, under a
gigantic cebia, girths were tightened, and preparations made for the
ascent, which is by a broad path, partly cut in the hill and built up
with masonry. This road was constructed by Gen. Muñoz, to avoid the
circuit of the camino real, or cart road, and is creditable to its
originator. The ascent was laborious, but the toil was repaid by the
views which we caught of the lake and its shores, from places where the
precipices allowed no foothold for trees, and whence the eye roamed
freely over league upon league of forest and undulating hills,
terminating in the blue belt of Chontales and New Segovia. It was a
singular position to be thus perched on the face of a cliff, with high,
black, and frowning volcanic rocks on one hand, and a precipice, sheer
and yawning, upon the other.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: VIEW OF LAKE, FROM BEACH AT MANAGUA.]
[Illustration: THE ROAD TO NAGOROTE.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
After winding about for half an hour, we reached the summit, from which,
upon the other side, the land fell off in a gentle slope. This is the
only hill or mountain to be encountered in the whole length of
Nicaragua, between the lakes and the Pacific; and this may be avoided by
taking the circuit of the cart road. From the summit, two hours and a
half of hard riding, over a beautiful country, brought as to the little
village of Mateares, distinguished as being utterly destitute of a
single object of interest. It is a sort of half-way house in the journey
from Granada to Leon, and has a miserable posada or two, where coffee
and tortillas may be obtained cheaply, and fleas gratis. We divided our
party between the two rival establishments, and ordered water and sacate
for the animals, preliminary to undertaking the hot and unprotected ride
of three leagues upon the sandy shore of the lake, which came within the
next stage of our journey. Don Enrique Pallais, a Frenchman,
domesticated in the country, a man of large experience and a kind heart,
who was of our party, had his “comadre” in the posada where we stopped,
who embraced him affectionately as we entered. She was exceedingly
pretty, with a mild, sweet face, and as she was apparently the mistress
of the mansion, I felt a little scandalized to find Don Enrique on such
familiar terms with her; but he explained this extraordinary relation of
“comadre” and “compadre,” to my entire satisfaction. He had been sponsor
at the baptism of her child, a little yellow chap just tottering about
the house, and had thereby assumed the relation of compadre—a kind of
second husband, without, however, any marital rights beyond the
privilege of an embrace at meeting, after the manner I had witnessed. I
afterwards observed that the fervor of the embrace bore a pretty exact
ratio to the good looks of the señora. The fact is, I am a “compadre”
myself now, and the relation brings to mind a girlish little creature,
singing softly to her baby, at this very hour I dare say, somewhere
amongst the hills of San Salvador!
At Mateares the traveller turns suddenly to the right, and descending a
steep bank comes at once upon the shore of the lake. For two or three
miles a belt of trees intervenes between the water and the cliff,
beneath which passes the broad, gravelly road. I had gone ahead of my
companions, who were deeply engaged in the concoction of lemonades at
the posada, and had this part of the ride alone. I took off my hat, and
throwing the rein upon my horse’s neck, gave myself up to the silence
and the scene. The air was literally loaded with fragrant odors from a
hundred varieties of flowers, which blushed amongst the green thickets
on every hand, while the waters of the lake flashed here and there
between the trees like silver bars; and brilliant birds, noisy parrots,
and dignified macaws in fiery plumage, looked down upon me in a familiar
way, as if I were an old acquaintance. Several portly iguanas, who were
enjoying themselves amongst the loose gravel of the road, seemed to be
doubtful whether they should turn out, or force me to do so; and when
they did leave the path, it was in a very leisurely manner, and with an
expression equivalent to “what a _gringo_, to be riding at noonday, and
disturbing respectable iguanas!”
After riding about a league, the belt of forest terminated in a a few
gigantic cebias, and beyond was a broad beach, the bare cliff rising
abruptly on one side, and the lake spreading out on the other, without
as much as a shrub to break the fervor of the tropical sun. Here a party
of muleteers, returning from Leon, were taking their noonday siesta,
while the mules straggled about at will, nibbling the green bushes. Here
too, for the first time, came fully in sight the great volcano of
Momotombo, with the conical island of Momotombita in front, and the
broken cones of the volcano of Las Pilas upon its flank. The foreground
of rocks and trees, the strolling mules and reclining figures, completed
a picture unsurpassed, in point of novelty and beauty by any which I had
seen before, or have witnessed since. Its predominant features are very
imperfectly conveyed in the accompanying drawing, subsequently taken
from the same point of view.
The muleteers sat up as I rode by, answering my “adios Señores” with
“buen viaje, Caballero,” and then fell back in the sand again, and drew
their sombreros over their faces. The sand of the beach was fetlock
deep, and covered all over with white and rose-colored pebbles of
pumice-stone. I spurred my horse up to the water, and dismounting led
him along its edge, amusing myself by tossing the light pebbles out upon
the tiny waves, and watching them come tipping back again, buoyant as
corks. Hundreds of wild fowl, cranes, herons, and water-hens lined the
shores, or stood soliloquizing on the rocks and sand-spits which
projected into the water. They had the courtesy to give me the road as I
walked along, but hardly anything more; and only ejaculated “cluck!”
when I shouted at them, which I suppose meant “don’t be kicking up a row
here, at noonday.” In fact I began to think that all nature, animate and
inanimate, had entered into a grand compact to take a quiet snooze at
this precise hour every day. The lake itself seemed dreaming, and the
smoke from Momotombo rose in such a sleepy way, that I almost felt
drowsy in watching it, and should certainly have lain down in the sand
and taken a nap, had there been a tree or bush to protect me from the
hot sun. My only alternative was therefore to jog on, which I did until
I came to a place where the cliff projected forward almost to the
water’s edge. Here I paused, and looked back for my companions, but they
were not to be seen.
Beyond this point the lake formed a little bay, and rocks worn into
fantastic shapes by the water supplanted the sandy beach. These rocks
seemed to be composed of a kind of volcanic breccia, for fragments of
pumice-stone, bits of primitive rock, and an occasional large piece of
trachyte were visible in the white and slightly porous masses. Yet, at a
little distance, stratified sand rock appeared, overlying the breccia,
and anon a vein of basaltic or trachytic rock, or a frowning heap of
rough, black, and blistered masses of these materials, superimposed on
the sand rock or conglomerate, would completely confound my uneducated
notions of geological propriety. I presume all this apparent confusion
is of easy explanation amongst those versed in the natural sciences; and
if (as is more than likely) these can make nothing out of my
description, they had better go there and examine for themselves.
Geologically, as well as geographically and topographically, there is no
more interesting region than that of Nicaragua, nor one which can better
repay the investigations of the student of nature.
I continued beneath the broiling sun for nearly a league farther,
passing through patches of chapparal, or thorny bushes, resembling the
willow in the shape and color of their leaves, which found a precarious
hold amongst the rocks and in the barren sands. Beyond these the track
divided, one branch running up a ravine into the woods, and the other
keeping along the lake. I was at a dead loss as to which to take, and
did not much relish the idea of sitting there solus until the party came
up. While in this perplexity I heard the crowing of cocks in the
direction of the ravine, and riding in, soon found myself in a broad
path which led to a cluster of huts, situated so as to command a full
view of the lake, without being seen from the shore. I despatched one of
the niños, under promise of the magnificent reward of one medio, to
watch for my companions, and tossing the bridle to a mozo, walked into
the best hut and took possession of the best hammock, which a motherly
old lady undertook to swing backward and forth for me, while I should
endeavor to compensate myself for my broken slumbers of the preceding
night. Sleep came without coaxing, and I had a grand siesta there
amongst those kind Indians. I was roused by our _comisario_, who was
hurrying on to order dinner for us at Nagarote, and I determined to push
on with him. He had seduced one of the party to take his old mule, and
had now got the best horse in the company, my own excepted. It was a
sharp proceeding, as will be seen in the sequel.
The ride to Nagarote was a fine one; in places the road came down to the
lake, and then wound back again amongst the hills, affording a most
agreeable diversity to the traveller. At one place we reached a small
valley, at the bottom of which flowed a limpid, rippling little
stream—the only one we had encountered since we left Granada. The ground
was beaten hard, and the underbrush removed over a wide space, for this
was a famous resting place with the carreteros and arrieros. Two or
three little groups of travellers were now waiting there, mixing their
cups of _tiste_ from the stream, while their animals were left to roam
at discretion. They invited us to join them, but with the prospect of a
good dinner only one league ahead, we declined, and galloped on, and on,
until I began to think that our going to Nagarote was a grand flam, or
that the town itself had walked off. That famous league we ever
afterwards distinguished as the “five mile league.” We nevertheless
finally came to Nagarote, a little scurvy looking town, redeemed by but
one really good looking house, which I was glad to learn was the posada.
The landlady was “fat and forty,” and welcomed us right cordially; she
liked the Americans, she said; they had “mucho dinero,” much money, and
paid double what other folks did, without grumbling. I ordered the best
dinner she could afford for the entire party, and then took to the
hammock again, to catch another installment of sleep. It was full an
hour before the remainder of the party came dropping in, one by one, for
the order of march had been completely broken up, after leaving
Matearas. Dinner was almost ready, but yet three or four were missing.
Finally these arrived, two of them on foot, and holding one of their
companions in his saddle. He was the verdant young gentleman who had
exchanged his horse for the mule of the comisario, which had completely
broken down some two or three leagues back, and had been abandoned in
the woods. He had attempted to walk the rest of the way, but the
exercise brought on chills and fever. He was put to bed, bathed with
brandy, and wrapped in blankets, and having perspired freely, came on
next morning, all the better apparently for the attack.
I dined with Don Enrique, at the cane-built house of a poor priest, with
whom he was acquainted. The padre was absent, but his housekeeper, a
tall, pale woman, with large, expressive black eyes, welcomed us very
cordially. She had about her some fifteen or twenty little children,
collected from the poorest families, to whom she taught reading and
writing. Her humble dwelling was destitute of a single article of luxury
or embellishment, unless a finely painted face of the Virgin, suspended
over a little altar in an inner room, can be called such. I asked her if
she was paid for her pains? She shook her head, and her eyes kindled and
her brow expanded, as she slowly raised her face to heaven: her reward
was there. How little do the sectaries and bigots of our own country
know of the devotion, and fervent, unselfish piety of many of those whom
they so unsparingly denounce as the impure ministers of a debased
religion! When I last passed through Nagarote, I called to see the
gentle teacher, but the hut was deserted, and rank weeds were growing
around it. I inquired for her at the posada; the old lady did not answer
me, but her eyes filled with moisture. The Santa Anita was dead; she had
gone to the reward for which she had striven; the reward of the meek and
the lowly in spirit! Shall I confess it? The heretic stranger dropped a
tear to the memory of the Santa Anita.
We experienced great tribulation in Nagarote in getting animals to
replace two or three of the scurvy mules which had been imposed upon us
in Granada, and which were here unanimously condemned. We told the man
whom the emprestador had sent with them, that he must supply their
places; but he couldn’t. All the horses and mules in the place had been
sent to the fields, to prevent their being seized for the use of the
army. “No hay, Señor!” there are none, was the invariable response to
our inquiries. But we were bound to get on; so I instructed our
_comisario_ to produce the government order, which he carried in his
pocket, and take it to the first alcalde, with my compliments, and the
intimation that horses must be forthcoming, or his name should be
faithfully reported to the “Gobierno Supremo.” The effect was magical;
horses, and good ones, appeared incontinently; whereupon I conceived a
high respect for the dingy bit of paper which had wrought the miracle,
and copied it for the benefit of future travellers. Here it is:—
_Sebastian Salinas, Ministro de Relaciones del Supmo. Gobno. del Estado
de Nicaragua._
De orden del mismo, hago saber á todas las autoridades de los pueblos
del transito de esta Ciudad á la de Granada, q. el Sr. Oficial Don
Jose Dolores Bermudez, á la cabeza de nueve o diez Norte-Americanos,
va á conducir á esta dicha Ciudad al Exmo. Sr. Jorge Squier Mntro.
Pleinpotenciario del Gobno. Supmo. de los Estados Unidos del Norte
cerca del de Nicaragua residente en Granada. Ordeno y mando á las
espresadas autoridades del transito q. no les pongan embarazo á dichos
Sres, y ademas en su regreso con el Sr. Squier le guarden á este los
respetos y consideraciones q. exije su alto caracter.
Dado en Leon, Sellado con el Sello del Estado, en la Casa de Gobno. a
los 28 dia del mes de Junio, de 1849.
Les prestaran los recursos que necesiten }
previa indennizacion. } [L.S.] S. SALINAS.
It was late in the afternoon, and dark thunder clouds were gathering in
the east, clustering around the bald, burned peak of Momotombo, when we
started from Nagarote for Pueblo Nuevo, where we were to pass the night.
The winds were fitful, but cool and refreshing, and I unstrapped my
poncho and threw it over the saddle bow, preparatory to encountering the
storm that was closing around us. It came, fierce and black, before we
had accomplished a single league of the five which intervened between
the two villages. In an instant we were enveloped in the thick darkness,
and the rain poured down in torrents. We could distinguish each other
only when the lightnings blazed lividly around us. We left the horses to
their own guidance, only taking care not to be dragged from our seats by
the projecting limbs and overhanging branches, which constitute the
chief source of danger in travelling in these countries in the
night-time. The road became one pool of water, and the unshod horses
slipped constantly, in a way not at all calculated to quiet one’s
nerves. By-and-by the storm passed, rushing forth upon the expanse of
the Pacific, and the full moon glanced through the rifts of the passing
clouds, in a strange, fitful way, momentarily revealing tall spectral
trunks and skeleton branches, and then leaving us in utter darkness. It
was a weird looking forest through which we passed, and the entire party
seemed to catch its gloomy influences, and rode on, for more than hour,
slowly and in silence. Suddenly, however, the spell was broken by one of
the number striking up “Hail Columbia;” the others joined spontaneously
in the chorus; and when it was done, a great shout was given, and every
horse was spurred into a gallop, spite of mud and water, nor was a rein
drawn until, emerging from the forest, we found ourselves saluted by a
myriad dogs in the streets of Pueblo Nuevo. Here we were met by two or
three Americans who had started with the escort, but had been left here
in charge of one of their number who had been injured by a fall.
Anticipating our arrival, they had secured places for us in the village,
quartering one detachment here and another there, in true military
style. The house assigned to me and my personal companions was the most
imposing and aristocratic mansion in the place, inasmuch as it was twice
as large as any other, plastered with mud, and whitewashed withal. It
was occupied by a well-dressed Señora and her five daughters, all
attired in their finest array, with satin slippers, and their dark hair
newly braided, and tipped out with a bunch of variegated ribbons. Upon
one side of the principal apartment was an immense hollowed log, which
was the granary; and upon the other a wax figure of Christ on the cross,
surrounded by weeping Marys and bearded Romans, superabundantly
tinselled; the whole enclosed in a large glass case, hung round with
chaplets of fresh flowers. The five daughters were evidently putting
their best feet foremost, but seemed to be greatly perplexed as to which
was “El Ministro.” Bespattered with mud, wayworn and weary, none of the
party looked particularly imposing, and I thought I could discover
symptoms of disappointment amongst the señoritas. They nevertheless were
attentive, and gave us cigaritas all round, and brought coals in a
silver cup for us to light them by; and what was better, they gave us a
capital supper, with knives for three, and forks and spoons for four of
the eight who sat down at the table, which was rather more than the
usual allowance. Before we had finished, however, the alcalde came, but
we declined talking until supper was over; and meantime the municipal
dignitaries perched themselves on the big log, and looked at us in
silence. We were getting very indifferent to official attentions; and so
dismissed our visitors with all practicable expedition, but with a great
profusion of compliments, which they seemed to relish mightily.
I got a bed with a canvass bottom, and slept dreamlessly the entire
night, and until eight o’clock the next morning. The atmosphere was all
the clearer for the storm of the preceding evening, and the village
looked particularly bright and cheerful under the morning sun. Differing
from the other towns which we had passed, each house was here surrounded
by a hedge, or rather fence, of the columnar cactus, which in some
places was low and even, but in others shot up to the height of fifteen
or twenty feet, resembling palisades, above which just appeared the
thatched roofs of the dwellings. “A great country, this,” said W——,
“where they plant their fences!”
We were now within eight leagues of Leon, and, with the whole day before
us, were not so expeditious in our movements as we might have been under
other circumstances. We breakfasted leisurely, and departed with
becoming deliberation. Beyond Pueblo Nuevo, the road, as usual, was
through a forest, with here and there open spaces called “_jicarales_,”
from the _jicara_, or calabash trees, that were scattered over them, and
which in size, and the appearance of the leaves and fruit, resembled the
apple trees at home.
The broad and well beaten road, hard and smooth from the rain of the
preceding night, was lined with palms and trees covered with blossoms,
which loaded the air with their rich perfumes, and from which the white
and rose-tinted petals fell like snow, beneath the touch of the cool
morning breeze. Here a group of monkeys looked down on us with queer
grimaces—there a flock of parroquets, nestling _perdu_ amongst the
leaves, dashed wildly away upon our approach, while pigeons, and
red-legged partridges graciously condescended to step out of the way and
allow us to pass, without, however, exhibiting the slightest degree of
alarm. Hundreds of lizards, bright green and gold, darted like rays of
light before us; and large ants, each bearing a fragment of a green leaf
above its back, marched across the path in solid columns, like fairy
armies with their tiny banners. Their nests, built in the forks of the
trees, resembled large bee-hives, and their paths, from which all
obstacles were removed, for the width of several inches, could be traced
by the eye in every direction amongst the bushes.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: NATIVE HOUSE IN PUEBLO NUEVO.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
We rode briskly along, and in less than two hours came to a ravine, shut
in by high banks, and descended by a series of steep steps which would
have been deemed utterly impracticable at home, but which seemed to be
quite a matter of course to the horses here. This place was called
Axusco; and the ravine once entered, it was picturesque beyond
description. The soil seemed moister than on the higher ground, and the
verdure was correspondingly rich and dense. Masses of vines, leaves, and
flowers were piled one on the other in the utmost luxuriance, and the
shadows fell with a breadth and depth seen nowhere except under the
tropics, and rarely equalled even there. It was a suspicious place
nevertheless; and one or two dilapidated crosses, hardly visible amongst
the undergrowth, showed that it had been the scene of tragic events, of
robbery and murder. I afterwards often passed it in the night, but never
without my hand on my sword-hilt.
We rested awhile at Axusco, then spurring up the opposite bank, resumed
our march. The same forest shut us in, but paths, diverging here and
there to distant estates and haciendas, gave evidence that we were
approaching the city of Leon. Finally we arrived where the trees became
more scattered, and through occasional openings we caught confused
glimpses of broad fields, green hills, and towering volcanoes. These
glimpses revealed a section of country surpassing in its capabilities
any we had yet seen. I hurried on impatiently, and in a few moments,
emerging from the forest, the great plain of Leon opened grandly before
me!
I had left my companions behind, and stood alone on the borders of this
ocean of verdure. Stretching away, chequered with hedge-rows and studded
with tree clumps and tall palms, the eye traversed leagues on leagues of
green fields, belted with forests, and bounded on the right by high
mountains, their regular cones rising like spires to heaven, while low
hills of emerald circled round on the left, like the seats of an
amphitheatre. In front the view was uninterrupted, and the wearied eye
sought in vain to discover its limit. A purple haze rested in the
distance, and beneath it the waves of the great Pacific rolled in,
unbrokenly, from China and the Indies!
It was the beginning of the rainy season, and vegetation had shot up in
renewed youth and vigor; no dust had yet dimmed the almost transparent
green of the leaves, nor had the heat withered the delicate blades of
grass and spires of maize which carpeted the level fields, nor the young
tendrils which twined delicately around the branches of the trees, or
hung, blushing with buds and flowers, from the parent stem. Above all
shone down the glorious sun, and the whole broad expanse seemed
pulsating with life beneath its genial rays.
Never before had I gazed upon a scene so grand and magnificent as this.
Well and truly has the ancient chronicler described it as “a country
plain and beautiful, full of pleasantness, so that he who fared therein
deemed that he journeyed in the ways of Paradise.” The impression
produced upon my companions, who had in the meantime joined me, was not
less striking than on myself. We had heard much of the great plain of
Leon, but the reality far surpassed the anticipations which we had
formed of its extent and beauty. As we rode on, however, we were
surprised to find that, although a great quantity of land was cleared,
not more than half of it was really under cultivation; a remark which we
had subsequently frequent occasion to make, for agriculture, since the
independence, owing to the unfortunate condition of the country, has
very much declined.
We had anticipated some kind of demonstration upon our arrival in Leon,
and remembering our plight at San Carlos, had fixed upon “El Convento,”
about four miles from the city, as the place where we should make the
necessary changes in our garb, preparatory to encountering the
dignitaries and citizens of the capital. The convent was yet a league in
advance, and meantime we wore the soiled and mud-bespattered garments
with which we had passed through the storm of the preceding night. We
had not gone far, however, into the open plain, before we discovered a
party of horsemen galloping rapidly towards us. As they approached, we
perceived that some wore military uniforms, while the others were
dressed as simple citizens. They came near, and one of the party, who
was evidently an American, looked hard at us, and for a moment seemed in
doubt. We bowed, and would have passed on, but turning short, our
supposed countryman inquired, in English, if we had passed a party of
Americans, and the American minister, on the road. The question was an
awkward one; I laughed outright, and matters were taking a very
ridiculous turn, when one of our escort opportunely coming up,
introduced us to Dr. Livingston, American Consul in Leon, by whom we
were duly presented to the accompanying officers. The scene was
sufficiently ludicrous all round, and I thought the seriousness of our
new friends was strongly tried. I might have enjoyed the affair very
much, had I not been at once informed that a large company of gentlemen
from the city, a hundred or two in number, with the principal officers
of State, and the Bishop of the church, in person, at their head, were
coming out to meet us. But when it was added that they had already
passed the convent, and were not half a mile distant, I was horrified. I
entreated the doctor to ride back, and say that we would join them
beyond the convent, but before the movement could be made, the whole
cavalcade came in sight, and descrying our group, approached us at a
gallop. There was no retreat, and we moved on in despair. First came the
Bishop in his purple robes, splendidly mounted, flanked by a group of
priests, and followed by a train of officers, in uniforms absolutely
dazzling in the noon-day sun! ....
Suffice it to say, we met, and there were congratulations, and welcomes,
and many fine things said,—and if we did not leave a sufficiently
distinct idea of republican simplicity on the minds of our new friends,
it will be useless for any one to undertake it hereafter. They were,
however, all well-bred caballeros, and with true Spanish _politesse_,
kept their gravity, which, W. remarked, displayed “extraordinary
self-control!” I nevertheless observed that some of the younger officers
had occasion to wipe their faces with their handkerchiefs very often,
and were long about it. But then it was a hot day, and they had ridden
fast.
I was, however, determined not to enter the city in my present plight,
and when we reached the convent, excused myself, and left the cavalcade
to proceed, promising to rejoin it in a few minutes. The “convento” was
only an Indian hut, of which I incontinently, and not in the best of
humors, took possession, politely turning the family, old ones, babies,
pigs, and chickens, all out of doors. Ben produced the diplomatic suit,
which I had not seen since it left the tailor’s, and displayed
extraordinary address in adjusting it. Ten minutes sufficed to complete
the transformation, but I discarded the _chapeau_, and stuck to the
broad-brimmed Panama which I had purchased in Granada, much to Ben’s
dissatisfaction, who was bent on retrieving the credit of the legation.
We overtook the cavalcade a few hundred yards from where we had left
them. They had halted beneath some large trees, and our escort, which
had meantime come up, we also found on the spot, marshalled in the same
order as when we left Granada. A dashing young officer rode up to me, as
I approached, and begged to be permitted “to carry the glorious flag of
El Norte,” which request was, of course, graciously acceded to. Matters
now began to take a more promising turn, and as per _programme_ of
arrangements, I found myself, with Dr. Livingston and the bishop, placed
at the head of the procession, which formed in column, three deep. The
Bishop, Don George de Viteri y Ungo, impressed me, from the first, as a
man far above the ordinary mark, well informed, courteous, and affable,
with manners which would have graced the proudest courts of Europe. I
soon found that he had been in the United States, had travelled
extensively in the Old World, and altogether knew more of men and things
than could have been surmised of an ecclesiastic, however high in
station, in this secluded part of the world. I was nevertheless taken a
little aback, I must confess, when he inquired of me about Forrest and
Miss Clifton, and whether they were yet on the stage. He had seen them
both at the Park Theatre, and had been delighted, he said, with their
acting, although he had not understood a word which they said. I told
him that the Park had been burned, and that it probably would never be
rebuilt, and concurred with him in regarding it as a “great pity.” Mr.
Clay, too, he had heard speak, and had _felt_ all he said, without
understanding his language. “Ah!” exclaimed the Bishop, “after all,
there is more in the feeling of the speaker himself, and in his manner,
than in his words;—to arouse the sympathy of the hearer is the true
secret of oratory!” Not bad criticism, I thought, for Nicaragua.
As we advanced over the plain, the cultivated fields became more
numerous, and the evidences of industry more abundant. It was with
something, I thought, of the spirit of prophecy, that the Bishop swept
his hand around the horizon and said, “We want only an infusion of your
people, to make this broad land an Eden of beauty, and the garden of the
world.” He pointed out to me the nine volcanoes which skirted the plain;
the gigantic Viejo; the regular Telica; the riven Orota, and lofty
Momotombo, which now rose clear and distinct before our eyes; these,
said he, are the works of the Great Architect, and _that_, the puny
achievement of man! I looked in the direction which he pointed, and
there rose the towers of the great Cathedral, white and massive above a
wilderness of tiled roofs, foliage, and fruit trees. Notwithstanding his
philosophical depreciation, I thought there was an expression of pride
in the face of the Bishop, as his eyes rested upon this architectural
wonder of Nicaragua; nor was his complacency unwarranted, for the
Cathedral of Leon is a structure not unworthy a place beside the most
imposing sacred edifices of either continent.
We now rapidly approached the city, and entered the suburbs, which
corresponded entirely with those of Granada and Masaya. Here was drawn
up the carriage of the Bishop, in readiness for use, in case I should
prefer it. I however, chose to continue on horseback, and the polite
Bishop commended my choice. Passing the Indian barrio, or suburb of
Guadelupe, the people falling on their knees as the Bishop approached,
we descended abruptly into a deep ravine, at the bottom of which flowed
a clear and beautiful stream, and ascended upon the other side by a
broad, graded way, paved with stones, into the city proper. I had merely
time to observe that the streets were in gala dress, when the thunder of
cannon, and the sudden pealing of the bells of the churches, above which
those of the cathedral rose full and distinct, proclaimed our arrival.
“Vivan los Estados Unidos del Norte!” exclaimed the officer who bore my
flag, as he dashed at full speed to the head of the column. The whole
party caught the spirit, and echoed the “viva,” and the Bishop himself
waved his hand and cried “Adelantamos!” On! I remember but little more,
except a confused sound of trampling horses, shouting people, the
ringing of bells, the thunder of cannon, and a cloud of dust, until we
rode into the great plaza. Here the entire garrison was drawn up, who
presented arms and cheered for the United States as we entered. The band
struck up a martial air, and the ladies of the metropolis waved their
handkerchiefs to us from the balconies of the House of the Government.
We halted for a moment, and the alcalde mayor made a speech, which was
delightfully short, but of which, amidst the clangor of the bells and
the shouts of the multitude, I heard not a word. I responded in three
sentences, which I presume were equally unintelligible; and then we
moved our amidst a dense throng, to the house of the American Consul,
above which the stripes and stars floated proudly to the breeze. It was
with unmingled feelings of satisfaction that, shaking hands with the
Bishop, and bowing to the rest of the cavalcade, I spurred through the
archway into the court of the Dr.’s residence, and away from the noise
and the dust of the crowded streets. But the public curiosity was not
yet satisfied, and the people thronged into the courtyard to stare at
the apparition from El Norte. Nor was it until the gateway was closed
and barred that we succeeded in escaping from the multitude, and even
then the iron gratings of the windows were festooned with inquisitive
boys, who seemed to hang one to another like swarming bees. Some
considerate alcaldes, however, by a judicious application of their
canes, finally cleared these away, and then we got an hour for privacy
and dinner.
High mass had been said the day before in the church of La Mercedes for
our safe arrival, and now a Te Deum was chaunted in the cathedral in
acknowledgement of the protection which Heaven had vouchsafed to us. In
the evening fireworks were let off in the plaza, and we were serenaded
by the band attached to the garrison, which, to our surprise, we found
almost as effective as any that we had ever heard.
We found that the city was not free from the alarm which had existed at
Granada; and although no outbreak had occurred in this part of the
state, the government, acting on the principle that “precaution is the
parent of safety,” had taken the most complete measures to guard against
surprise, and to check promptly the first indications of disorder. The
roof and towers of the cathedral, an impregnable fortress in itself,
were occupied by troops; so too was the church of La Mercedes; and the
evacuated convent attached to it had been converted into a cuartel of
cavalry. It was immediately opposite the house of Dr. Livingston, and I
observed that the horses of the lancers were kept constantly saddled, in
readiness for action at a moment’s warning. Advanced posts of troops
were also established in every principal street, and after the eight
o’clock bell had struck, there was no cessation of the fierce “_Quien
vivas?_” and wakeful “_Alertes!_” of the sentinels.
The day subsequent to our arrival was devoted to receiving visits from
the functionaries and leading citizens of Leon. Amongst them all, none
impressed me more favorably than the Presbitero Dr. Disiderio de la
Quadra, then Vicar of the bishopric, a man of great dignity of manners,
and of a character above the remotest taint of suspicion. He was
accompanied by a number of the dignitaries of the church, and spoke of
his country, its wants, and prospects, with a force and freedom which I
had little expected to hear. Indeed, I soon discovered that the better
portion of the population fully comprehended the evils under which they
suffered, and only required that exterior influences should be exercised
in their favor, instead of against them, as it had been hitherto, in
order to effect their removal. The revolutionary spirit had exhausted
itself, and the universal desire was now for peace and quiet, stability
in public affairs, and moderation in their administration. All hoped
much from the sympathy and co-operation of the United States, and took
new energy from the circumstance that they had attracted the attention
and awakened the interest of its government. No better evidence of the
truth of these observations could be desired, than the feeling exhibited
on the occasion of my official presentation, which took place a few days
after my arrival, publicly, in the hall of the Government House, which
was appropriately fitted up for the occasion. The proceedings were
characterized by the greatest decorum, and a degree of enthusiasm which
it would hardly be proper for me to attempt to describe. Indeed, in
introducing my own address on the occasion, with the reply of Señor
Ramirez, the Supreme Director of the State, I am conscious that I am
incurring the risk of being misunderstood and misrepresented; but as I
have set out with the purpose of vindicating the public sentiment of
Nicaragua, not less than of making known the character and condition of
its people, I conceive that I cannot do better than to introduce
occasional documents of this kind, especially when they contribute to
the completeness of my narrative, and to the understanding of the
present posture of affairs in that country.
ADDRESS.
“SEÑOR DIRECTOR OF THE REPUBLIC OF NICARAGUA:
“I have to-day the honor of laying before you my credentials as the
Representative of the United States of North America, near the
Government of this Republic. The personal satisfaction which I feel
upon this occasion is greatly enhanced by the many evidences which I
have already had afforded to me, of the friendly sentiments which are
entertained by the Government and people of Nicaragua towards those of
the United States. I can assure you, upon behalf of my Government,
that these sentiments are fully reciprocated, and that it is its
earnest desire to cultivate, in every way, the most cordial relations
with this Republic. Of this the official letters from the city of
Washington, which I have now the honor to deliver to yourself and his
Excellency the Minister of Foreign Relations, will give abundant
evidence.
“It shall be my aim, Sir, in my official and personal intercourse with
the Government and people of this State, not only to confirm the
present harmony and good correspondence which exist between the two
Republics, but to create new ties of friendship, and to promote a
closer and more intimate relationship between them. They, Sir, possess
common interests; they both stand before the world the avowed
supporters of liberal principles, and the vindicators of Republican
Institutions; the true policy of both is the preservation of order,
and the encouragement of education and industry at home, and the
maintenance of peace abroad. It is proper, therefore, that they should
present an example of that fraternity which it is the desire of my
Government, as I know it is of your Excellency, should exist between
the two Republics.
“To this end, and to secure the permanent welfare of both, it is
essential that they should pursue a system of policy exclusively
American. In the language of an eminent statesman of my own country,
(whose memory is reverently cherished, and whose words are treasured
with care by every American citizen,) ‘in order that the fabric of
international connections between the Republics of this continent may
rise, in the lapse of years, with a grandeur and harmony of
proportions corresponding with the magnitude of the means placed by
Providence in their power, its foundations must be laid in principles
of politics and morals new and distasteful to the thrones and
dominions of the elder world, but coextensive with the surface of the
globe, and lasting as the changes of time.’
“A cardinal principle in this policy is a total exclusion of foreign
influence from the domestic and international affairs of the American
Republics; and while we would cultivate friendly intercourse, and
promote trade and commerce with all the world, and invite to our
shores and to the enjoyment of our institutions the people of all
nations, we should proclaim, in language distinct and firm, that the
American continent belongs to Americans, and is sacred to Republican
Freedom. We should also let it be understood, that if foreign powers
encroach upon the territories or invade the rights of any one of the
American States, they inflict an injury upon all, which it is alike
the duty and determination of all to see redressed.
“Señor Director! Providence has peculiarly favored the country of
which you are the worthy Chief Executive. I have passed through your
territories from the Atlantic ocean, through your rivers and
magnificent lakes, along the bases of your lofty mountains, and over
your broad and beautiful plains, until the wide expanse of the Pacific
opens before me, and I can almost hear the sound of its waves as they
break upon your western shores. At every step I have been deeply
impressed with the capabilities of the country, and the vastness of
its internal resources. I have seen, also, with pleasure, the many
evidences of industry and civilization which exist within your
borders, and I have been led to indulge the belief that the time is
not far distant, when the commerce of two hemispheres shall find
within your territories an easy passage from sea to sea. It is one of
the objects of my mission to assist in an enterprise so important to
the whole world—an enterprise, the successful prosecution of which
must enable this country to attain a degree of prosperity second to
that of no other on the globe. With your cordial co-operation, (of
which I am well assured,) and of that of the citizens of this
Republic, I hope soon to have it in my power to announce to my
Government, that the initiatives to this grand and glorious enterprise
have already been taken.
“And here, Sir, you will permit me to express the profound regret
which I feel, that I find this Republic afflicted by civil commotions.
Both the principles and policy of the United States make us desire
that this and the other Republics of Central America should be
prosperous and powerful. We feel a deep interest in their welfare, but
this we know can only be promoted by enlightened and stable
Governments. The enjoyment of liberty, and the maintenance of
individual rights, cannot be secured without permanent order, and this
can only spring from a sacred observance of law. I trust, Sir, that
the patriotic citizens of Nicaragua, whatever their differences of
opinion, will all unite in an earnest endeavor to restore peace to the
State. Nothing, Sir, could give me personally greater satisfaction,
and I am certain nothing could be more acceptable to the Government
and people of the United States, and to the friends of Republican
Institutions throughout the world.
“I will not, Sir, detain you further. I can only reiterate the
friendly sentiments of my Government and countrymen, and assure your
Excellency, and the distinguished officers of the State and army
around you, as also the illustrious Bishop and reverend prelates and
clergy, of my personal high consideration and regard. Allow me also,
through you, to return my thanks for the many kind attentions which I
have received from the magistrates and citizens of the Republic, and
to express the high pleasure which I have experienced in learning from
my countrymen, who have lately been detained by unforeseen
circumstances in the country, the uniform kindness and courtesy with
which they have been treated. I am proud to learn that the name of
AMERICAN has been a passport to every Nicaraguan heart. That the new
relations which are this day opened between this Republic and my own,
may result in lasting benefit to both, is, Sir, my sincere prayer, and
to this end I shall direct my most earnest endeavors.”
To this address the Supreme Director, Señor Don NORBERTO RAMIREZ,
replied as follows:
REPLY.
“SIR,—The satisfaction which I experience in having the honor of
receiving, for the first time, a representative of the Republic of
North America, is only equalled by the aspirations and high hopes
which that event inspires. The gratitude with which your words have
animated me, the extraordinary intervention of your Government under
the circumstances with which Nicaragua is surrounded, impose on me the
pleasing duty of returning thanks to Divine Providence for its
benefits.
“Nicaragua has long felt the necessity of sheltering itself under the
bright banner of the North American Confederacy; but the time which
the Arbiter of nations had designated for such high happiness and
consequent prosperity had not arrived. Before we despatched a Legation
to the American Minister at Guatemala, and even before the treaty
relative to a canal was entered into with Dr. Brown, (a citizen of
your Republic,) we had made some advances to the American Government
with a view to this happy consummation; but our hopes were scarcely
sustained by their result. But I now see all the elements of a happy
future brought before us; there is good faith in the Government with
which I am connected; the friendliest feelings towards North America
pervades every NICARAGUAN heart; and we have the assurances of the
sympathy and support of the American Government. We have consequently
all things which can be desired to make available the advantages with
which Heaven has surrounded us. Our State, considering its
geographical position, ought to be the most prosperous in Spanish
America; but our inexperience at the time of our separation from
Spain—our limited resources, and the civil commotions that have
intervened, have retarded the happy day which is now dawning upon us.
I am certain that the Government which you represent, can appreciate
the difficulties which have surrounded this Republic. Your Excellency
being able properly to estimate these circumstances, must already have
formed a just idea of the condition of this part of Central America,
and of the position of its Government. Believing therefore that the
best intentions exist upon your part towards us, as I know there is
the happiest disposition on ours, I entertain no doubts that we shall
succeed in establishing the most intimate relations between the two
Republics, and in opening the way to the consummation of that most
glorious enterprise which it has been reserved for the successors of
the immortal Washington to undertake and perfect. I shall have the
greatest pleasure in being able to contribute my humble share towards
this result, and to the consequent happiness of Nicaragua. I thank
you, Sir, and through you, your Government, for its proffered
coöperation in so glorious an enterprise.
“Let us begin, Sir, this great work under these bright auspices, and
we shall be sure of obtaining the best results. The people of the two
American Continents are contemplating us; it is possible that for what
we shall do, future generations shall cherish our memory: at least we
shall have the conscious satisfaction of having neglected no means,
omitted no sacrifice, in securing the grand objects so ardently
desired by two sister Republics, determined mutually to sustain their
interests, their honor, their integrity, and the principles of
continental freedom.”
An incident occurred, at the close of this reply, which perhaps would
have startled more rigid sticklers for form and etiquette than were
assembled on that occasion; but which I mention, for the same reasons
that have induced me to give place to the above quotations. The Director
had just concluded his reply, and the entire assemblage was yet still
and attentive, when a young officer, distinguished not less for his
ardent patriotism than for his bravery in the field, and his usefulness
as a citizen, Col. FRANCISCO DIAZ ZAPATA, advancing suddenly beyond the
line of officers, commenced an impassioned apostrophe to the flag of the
United States, which, entwined with that of Nicaragua, was suspended
above the chair of the Executive. The effect was electrical, and the
whole of the assemblage seemed to catch the spirit of the speaker, whose
appearance, action, and language were those of the intensest emotion.
They pressed eagerly forward, as if anxious to treasure every word which
fell from his lips; and when he had concluded, forgetting all other
considerations, their enthusiasm broke forth in loud and protracted
“vivas,” which were caught up and echoed by the people in the plaza, and
the soldiers of the garrison. I subjoin a literal copy of the address:
SALUTACION A LA BANDERA DE LOS ESTADOS UNIDOS.
POR SEÑOR FRANCISCO DIAZ ZAPATA.
“¡Presajio de poder y de grandeza!
¡Enseña illustre de virtud y gloria!
Yo te contemplo en tu sublime alteza;
Y al contemplarte siento
Que de mi Patria ensalzaras la historia.
Esas franjas hermosas,
Y el emblema feliz de tus Estrellas,
Que ajitadas del viento
Ondean y relucen majestuosas
Como astros rutilantes, y mas bellas:
El hasta fuerte y noble,
Y ese cuadro, del sólido figura;
Que la herida cerviz ya, no mas doble
Nicaragua en su triste desventura;
Revélanme que harás con tu presencia,
Rodeada de esplendor y de potencia.
“Bajo tu sombra, libertad respira
El activo Varon americano,
Que la memoria deificar aspira
De Washington glorioso:
Bajo tu sombra, se alza soberano
El poder de las leyes;
Y el saber y la ventura crecen
Con vigor prodijioso,
Que pesa sobre el cetro de los Reyes.
Y los Heroes de America enaltecen
Su memoria sagrada,
Sus sepulcros, su sangre de guerreros,
Y el triunfo de tu espada,
Bajo el dulce brillar de tus luceros.
Todo bajo tu imperio tiene vida,
Portentosa Bandera esclarecida.
Yo te saludo de entusiasmo lleno;
Y henchido de placer y de esperanza,
Mi corazon palpita dentro el seno
Con tan fuerte latido,
Que el pecho ardiente á respirar no alcanza.
La suave y fresca brisa,
Del alto Sol los claros resplandores,
El aire enrarecido,
De los Cielos la placida sonrisa,
Y el balsamico aliento de las flores,
Saludante conmigo.
Celebrando del modo mas plausible
Tu advenimiento amigo
A mi Patria doliente y compasible,
Llenala de tu honor y tu grandeza,
Y abate á su adversario la cabeza.”