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[Illustration: LAKE OF NICARAGUA AND VOLCANO OF MOMBACHO.—FROM THE
HACIENDA SANDOVAL, NEAR GRANADA.]
NICARAGUA;
ITS
PEOPLE, SCENERY, MONUMENTS,
RESOURCES, CONDITION, AND PROPOSED CANAL;
WITH
ONE HUNDRED ORIGINAL MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
BY E. G. SQUIER,
FORMERLY CHARGE D’AFFAIRES OF THE UNITED STATES
TO THE REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
[Illustration: ESTADO SOBERANO DE NICARAGUA]
“HIC LOCUS EST GEMINI JANUA VASTA MARIS.”—OVID
A REVISED EDITION
NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
1860.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, by
HARPER & BROTHERS,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the Southern District of
New York.
CONTENTS.
----------
NARRATIVE.
CHAPTER I.—The Brig Francis—Departure from New York—San Domingo—The
Coast of Central America—Monkey Point—Shrewd Speculations—A Naked
Pilot—Almost a Shipwreck—San Juan de Nicaragua—Music of the Chain
Cable—A Pompous Official—Delivering a Letter of Introduction—Terra
Firma again—“Naguas” and “Guipils”—The Town and its Laguna—Snakes
and Alligators—Practical Equality—Celt _vs._ Negro—A Wan
Policeman—The British Consul General for Mosquitia—“Our House” in
San Juan—An Emeute—Pigs and Policy—A Viscomte on the Stump—A
Serenade—Mosquito Indians—A Picture of Primitive Simplicity, 17
CHAPTER II.—The Port of San Juan de Nicaragua; its Position;
Climate; Population; Edifices of its Inhabitants; its Insects; The
Nigua; The Scorpion, etc.; its Exports and Imports; Political
Condition; Importance, Present and Prospective; Seizure by the
English, etc.—Mouth of the River San Juan—The Colorado Mouth—The
Tauro—Navigation of the River—Bongos and Piraguas—Los
Marineros—Discovery and early History of the Port of San Juan, 41
CHAPTER III.—The Magnates of San Juan—Captain Samuel Shepherd—Royal
Grants—Vexatious Delays—Imposing Departure—Entrance of the River
San Juan—“Peeling” of the Marineros—Character of the Stream—The
Juanillo—An Immemorial Stopping-place—Bongos and their Equipments
and Stores—Meals—Esprit du Corps among the Boatmen—The
“Oracion”—Queer Caprices—Medio—Our Accommodation—A Specimen Night
on the River—Morning Scenes and Impressions—Bongo Life—The
Colorado Mouth—Change of Scenery—The Iguana—A Solitary
Establishment—Tropical Ease—The Rio Serapiqui—Fight between the
Nicaraguans and the English—“A famous victory”—The Rio San
Francisco—Remolino Grande—Picturesque River Views—The Hills and
Pass of San Carlos—Thunder Storms—The Machuca Rapids—Melchora
Indians—Rapids of Mico and Los Valos—Rapids of the Castillo—Island
of Bartola—Capture by Lord Nelson—The “Castillo Viejo,” or Old
Castle of San Juan—“A Dios California!”—Ascend to the Ruins—Strong
Works—Capture of the Fort by the English in 1780—Failure of the
Expedition against Nicaragua; a Scrap of History—Passage of the
Rapids—Different Aspect of the River—A Black Eagle—Ninety Miles in
Six Days—The Port of San Carlos—Great Lake of Nicaragua—Land at
San Carlos—The Commandante—Hearty Welcome—Novel Scenes—Ancient
Defences—View from the Fort—The Rio Frio—The Gnatosos Indians—A
Paradise for Alligators—Some Happy Institutions of theirs, 55
CHAPTER IV.—San Carlos—Dinner at the Commandante’s—Introduction to
“Tortillas y Frijoles”—A Siesta—News of the attempted
Revolution—Anticipating Events, and what happened to the
Commandante after we left—Departure under a Military Salvo—View of
San Carlos from the Lake—Lake Navigation—Card Playing—Gorgeous
Sunset—A Midnight Storm—San Migueleto, and the “Bath of the
Naides”—Primitive Simplicity—A Day on the Lake—“El Pedernal”—A
Bath with Alligators—An “Empacho”—A Trial at Medicine, and great
Success—Second Night on the Lake—The Volcanoes of Momobacho,
Ometepec, and Madeira—Volcanic Scenery—The Coast of Chontales—The
Crew on Politics—“Timbucos” and “Calandracas,” or a Glance at
Party Divisions—Arrival at “Los Corals”—Some Account of
them—Alarming News—A Council of War—Faith in the United States
Flag—The Island of Cuba—More News, and a Return of the
“Empacho”—Distant View of Granada—Making a Toilet—Bees—Arrival at
the Ruined Fort of Granada—How they Land there—Sensation amongst
the Spectators—Entrance to the City—The Abandoned Convent of San
Francisco—The Houses of the Inhabitants—First Impressions—Soldiers
and Barricades—Thronged Streets—Señor Don Frederico
Derbyshire—“Our Host”—A Welcome—Official Courtesies—Our
Quarters—First Night in Granada, 91
CHAPTER V.—Reception-Day—General Respect and Admiration for the
United States—An Evening Ride—The Plaza—Churches—Hospital—The
“Jalteva”—Deserted Municipality—Melancholy Results of Faction—The
Arsenal—Natural Defences of the City—“Campo Santo”—An Ex-Director
and his “Hacienda”—Shore of the Lake in the Evening—Old Castle—The
“Oracion”—An Evening Visit to the Señoritas—Opera amidst Orange
Groves—“Alertas” and “Quien Vivas?”—The Granadinas at Home—An
Episode on Women and Dress—Mr. Estevens—“Los Malditos Inglesas”—A
Female Antiquarian Coadjutor—“Cigaritas”—Indian
Girls—Countrymen—An American “Medico”—Native Hospitality to
Strangers—The Ways infested by “Facciosos”—An American turned
Back—Expected Assault on the City, and Patriotic Resolves “To Die
under the American Flag”—A Note on Horses and Saddles—Visit to the
Cacao Estates of the Malaccas—The Cacao Tree—Day-Dreams—An
Adventure, almost—Grievous Disappointment—Somoza, the Robber
Chief—Our Armory—Feverishness of the Public Mind—Life under the
Tropics—A Frightened American, who had “seen Somoza,” and his
Account of the Interview—Somoza’s Love for the Americans—Good News
from Leon—Approach of the General-in-Chief, and an Armed American
Escort—Condition of Public Affairs—Proclamation of the Supreme
Director—Decrees of the Government—Official Announcements, and
Public Addresses—How they Exhibited the Popular Feeling—Nicaraguan
Rhetoric—Decisive Measures to put down the Insurgents—General Call
to Arms—Martial Law—Publication of a “Banda”—Great Preparations to
Receive the General-in-Chief and his “Veteranos”—No further Fear
of the “Facciosos”—A Break-neck Ride to the “Laguna de Salinas”—A
Volcanic Lake—Descent to the Water—How came Alligators
there?—Native “Aguardiente” “not bad to take”—Return to the City—A
Religious Procession—The Host—Increasing Tolerance of the
People—Preparations for “La Mañana.” 121
CHAPTER VI.—Discovery of Nicaragua in 1522; Gil Gonzales de Avila,
and his march into the Country; Lands at Nicoya; Reaches Nicaragua
and has an Interview with its Cazique; Is closely questioned;
Marches to Dirianga, where he is at first received, but afterwards
attacked and forced to retreat; Peculiarities of the Aborigines;
Their wealth; Arrival of Francisco Hernandez de Cordova; He
subdues the country, and founds the cities of Granada and Leon;
Return of Gonzales; Quarrels between the Conquerors; Pedro Arias
de Avila, the first Governor of Nicaragua; His death; Is succeeded
by Roderigo de Contreras; His son, Hernandez de Contreras, rebels
against Spain; Meditates the entire independence of all Spanish
America on the Pacific; Succeeds in carrying Nicaragua; Sails for
Panama; Captures it; Marches on Nombre de Dios, but dies on the
way; Failure of his daring and gigantic Project; Subsequent
Incorporation of Nicaragua in the Vice-Royalty of Guatemala—The
City of Granada in 1665, by Thomas Gage, an English Monk;
Nicaragua called “Mahomet’s Paradise;” The Importance of Granada
at that Period; Subsequent Attack by the Pirates, in 1668; Is
Burnt; Their Account of it; The Site of Granada; Eligibility of
its Position; Population; Commerce; Foreign Merchants; Prospective
Importance—Lake Nicaragua; Its Discovery and Exploration;
Interesting Account of it by the Chronicler Oviedo, written in
1541; Its Outlet Discovered by Captain Diego Machuca; The wild
beasts on its Shores; The Laguna of Songozona; Sharks in the Lake,
their Rapacity; Supposed Tides in the Lake; Explanation of the
Phenomenon, 157
CHAPTER VII.—Narrative Continued—Arrival of the General-in-Chief—The
Army—Fireworks by Daylight—Prisoners—Interview with Gen.
Muñoz—Arrival of the Californian Escort—“Piedras Antiguas”—The
Stone of the Big Mouth—“El Chiflador”—Other
Antiquities—Preparations for Departure—Carts and
“Carreteros”—Vexatious Delays—Departure—How I got a Good Horse for
a Bad Mule on the Road—Distant View of the Lakes—The Freedom of
the Forest—Arrival at Masaya—Grand Entree—Deserted Plaza—A
Military Execution—A “Posada”—“Hijos de Washington”—Disappointed
Municipality—We escape an Ovation—Road to Nindiri—Apostrophe to
Nindiri!—Overtake the Carts—“Alguna Fresca”—Approach the Volcano
of Masaya—The “Mal Pais”—Lava Fields—View of the Volcano—Its
Eruptions—“El Inferno de Masaya,” the Hell of Masaya—Oviedo’s
Account of his Visit to it in 1529—Activity at that Period—The
Ascent—The Crater—Superstitions of the Indians—The Old Woman of
the Mountain—The Descent of the Fray Blas Castillo into the
Crater, 173
CHAPTER VIII.—Magnificent Views of Scenery—“Relox del Sol”—John
Jones and Antiquities—An “Alarm;” Revolvers and a Rescue—Distant
Bells—Don Pedro Blanco—Managua—Another Grand Entree—Our
Quarters—Supper Service—Enacting the Lion—Virtues of
Aguardiente—An “Obsequio,” or Torch-light Procession in Honor of
the United States—A National Anthem—Night with the Fleas—Fourth of
July and a Patriotic Breakfast—Saint Jonathan—Leave
Managua—Matearas—Privileges of a “Compadre”—Lake of Managua—A
magnificent View—The Volcano of Momotombo—A Solitary
Ride—Geological Puzzle—Nagarote—The Posada—Mules abandoned—A Sick
Californian—Dinner at a Padre’s—The Santa Annita—Virtues of a
Piece of Stamped Paper—A Storm in the Forest—Pueblo Nuevo—Five
Daughters in Satin Shoes—Unbroken Slumbers—Advance on
Leon—Axusco—A Fairy-Glen—The great Plain of Leon—A “touch” of
Poetry—Meet the American Consul—A Predicament—Cavalcade of
Reception—New Illustration of Republican Simplicity—El Convento—A
Metamorphosis—The Bishop of Nicaragua—Forest, Miss Clifton, Mr.
Clay—Criticism on Oratory—Nine Volcanoes in a row—Distant View of
the Great Cathedral—The City—Imposing Demonstrations—The Grand
Plaza—A Pantomimic Speech and Reply—The Ladies, “God bless
them!”—House of the American Consul—End of the
Ceremonies—Self-congratulations thereon—A Serenade—Martial Aspect
of the City—Trouble anticipated—Precautions of the Government, 201
CHAPTER IX.—The City of Leon—Originally built on the Shores of the
Lake Managua—Cause of its Removal—Its present Site—Dwellings of
its Inhabitants—Style of Building—Devastation of the Civil
Wars—Public Buildings—The Great Cathedral—Its Style of
Architecture; Interior; Magnificent View from the Roof—The “Cuarto
de los Obispos,” or Gallery of the Bishops—The University—The
Bishop’s Palace—“Casa del Gobierno”—“Cuartel General”—The Churches
of La Merced; Calvario; Recoleccion—Hospital of San Juan de
Dios—Stone Bridge—Indian Municipality of Subtiaba—Population of
Leon—Predominance of Indian Population—Destruction of Stocks—Mixed
Races—Society of Leon—The Females; their Dress—Social Gatherings:
the “Tertulia”—How to “break the Ice” and open a Ball—Native
Dances—Personal cleanliness of the People—General
Temperance—“Aguardiente” and “Italia”—Food—The
Tortilla—Frijoles—Plantains—The Markets—Primitive
Currency—Meals—Coffee, Chocolate, and “Tiste”—Dulces—Trade of
Leon, 237
CHAPTER X.—The Vicinity of Leon—The Bishop’s Baths—Fuenta de
Axusco—“Cerro de Los Americanos”—A Military Ball and Civic
Dinner—General Guerrero—Official Visit from the Indian
Municipality of Subtiaba—Simon Roque—A Secret—Address and
Reply—Visit Returned—The Cabildo—An Empty Treasury—“Subtiaba, Leal
y Fiel”—Royal Cedulas—Forming a Vocabulary—“Una Decima”—The
Indians of Nicaragua; Stature; Complexion; Disposition; Bravery;
Industry; Skill in the Arts—Manufacture of Cotton—Primitive Mode
of Spinning—Tyrian Purple—Petates and
Hammocks—Pottery—“Aguacales,” and
“Jicoras”—Costume—Ornaments—Aboriginal Institutions—The Conquest
of Nicaragua—Enormities practised toward the Indians—Present
Condition of the Indians—The Sequel of Somoza’s
Insurrection—Battles of the Obraje and San Jorge—Capture and
Execution of Somoza—Moderate Policy of the Government—Return of
General Muñoz—Medals—Festival of Peace—Novel Procession—A Black
Saint, 261
CHAPTER XI.—Antiquities—Ancient Statue in the Grand Plaza—Monuments
on the Island of Momotombita in Lake Managua—Determine to visit
them—The Padre Paul—Pueblo Nuevo and our Old Hostess—A Night
Ride—“Hacienda de las Vacas”—A Night amongst the “Vaqueros”—The
Lake—Our Bongo—Visit the Hot Springs of Momotombo—Attempt to reach
one of the “Infernales” of the Volcano—Terrible Heat—Give up the
Attempt—Oviedo’s Account of the Volcano—“Punta de los
Pajaros”—Momotombita—Dread of Rattlesnakes—The Monuments—Resolve
to remove the largest—A Nest of Scorpions—Tribulation of our
Crew—Hard Work—How to ship an Idol—Virtues of
Aguardiente—“Purchasing an Elephant”—More “Piedras Antiguas”—The
Island once Inhabited—Supposed Causeway to the Main-land—A
Perilous Night Voyage—Difficult Landing—Alacran, or Scorpion
Dance—A Foot-march in the Forest—The “Hacienda de los Vacas”
again—Scant Supper—Return to Leon—The Idol sent, via Cape Horn, to
Washington—A Satisfied Padre—Idols from Subtiaba—Monstrous
Heads—Visit to an Ancient Temple—Fragments—More Idols—Indian
Superstitions—“El Toro”—Lightning on Two Legs—A Chase after
Horses—Sweet Revenge—“Capilla de la Piedra”—Place of the Idol—The
Fray Francisco de Bobadilla—How he Converted the Indians—Probable
History of my Idols—The Ancient Church “La Mercedes de
Subtiaba”—Its Ruins—“Agarrapatas”—Tropical Insects—Snakes and
Scorpions _versus_ Fleas and Wood-ticks—A Choice of Evils, 285
CHAPTER XII.—Amusements in Leon—Cock Fighting—“Patio de Los
Gallos”—Decline of the Cock-pit—Gaming—Bull Baiting—Novel
Riding—“Una Sagrada Funcion,” or Mystery—A Poem, and a Drama—“Una
Compania de Funambulos,” or Rope Dancers—Great Anticipations—A
Novel Theatre—The Performance—“La Jovena Catalina” and the
“Eccentric Clown, Simon”—“Tobillos Gruesos,” or “Big
Ankles”—“Fiestas,“ and Saints’ Days—The “Fiesta” of St.
Andrew—Dance of the Devils—Unearthly Music—All-Saints’ Day—A
Carnival in Subtiaba—An Abrupt Conclusion, 313
CHAPTER XIII.—A Sortie from Leon—Quesalguaque—El Estero de Doña
Paula—The “Monte de San Juan”—Summary way of disposing of
“Ladrones”—“El Tigre,” Jaguar, or Ounce, Its Habits; How
Hunted—The “Lion,” or Puma—The “Coyote”—Posultega—A Specimen
Padre—Sobrinas—Chichigalpa—Poised Thunder-storm—The
Oracion—Hacienda of San Antonio—Chinandega—A Challenge—El
Viejo—Familiar Fixtures—An Enterprizing Citizen and his Tragic
Fate—A Decaying Town—Horses _vs._ Mules—Visit to the Haciendas—An
Indigo Estate, and a Mayor Domo—Fine View—The Sugar Estate of San
Geronimo—Bachelor Quarters and Hacienda Life—A Fruit Garden—The
Bread-Fruit—Sugar-mills, and the Manufacture of Aguardiente—A
Sinful Siesta—Visit From the Municipality—“Una Cancion”—Chinandega
by Daylight—Realejo—Port and Harbor—The Progress of Enterprize—The
Projected New Town of Corinth—Return to Leon, 329
CHAPTER XIV.—The Priesthood in Nicaragua—Decline in the Influence of
the Church—-Banishment of the Archbishop—Suppression of the
Convents—Prohibition of Papal Bulls—Legitimization of the Children
of Priests—The Three Abandoned Convents of Leon—Padre Cartine, the
last of the Franciscans—Reception, or Clock-room—The Padre’s Pets;
His Oratory; Private Apartments; Workshop—A Skull and its
History—The Eglesia del Recoleccion—The Padre as a Landlord; As a
Painter; As an Uncle; And as Negociator in Marriage—An Auspicious
Omen—Death of the Vicar of the Diocess of Nicaragua—His
Obsequies—A Funeral Oration—Priestly Eloquence—An Epitaph—General
Funeral Ceremonies—Death as an Angel of Mercy—Burial
Practices—Capellanias; Their Effects, and the Policy of the
Government in Respect to them—Popular Bigotry and Superstition—An
Ancient Indulgence—The Potency of an Ejaculation—Remission of
Sins—Penetencias—Rationale of the Practice—Novel Penances—Turning
Sins to Good Account—Good from Evil—System of the Padre
Cartine—The Diocess of Nicaragua, and its Bishop—General
Education—Public Schools—The Universities of Leon and Granada—A
Sad Picture, 355
CHAPTER XV.—Visits to the capital City, Managua—Legislative
Assembly; How to procure a Quorum—Executive Message—Ratification
of Treaty with the United States—Antiquities—Lake of
Nihapa—Huertas—Dividing Ridge—Traces of Volcanic Action—Hacienda
de Ganado—An Extensive Prospect—Extinct Crater—Ancient Paintings
on the Cliffs—Symbolical Feathered Serpent—A Natural
Temple—Superstitions of the Indians—Salt Lake—Laguna de Las
Lavadoras—A Courier—Three Months Later from Home—The Shore of Lake
Managua—Aboriginal Fisheries—Ancient Carving—Population of
Managua—Resources of surrounding Country—Coffee—Inhabitants—Visit
Tipitapa—Sunrise on the Lake—Hot Springs—Outlet of Lake—Mud and
Alligators—Dry Channel—Village of Tipitapa—Surly Host—Salto de
Tipitapa—Hot Springs again—Stone Bridge—Face of the
Country—Nicaragua or Brazil Wood—Estate of Pasquel—Practical
Communism—Matapalo or Kill-tree—Landing and Estero of Pasquel or
Panaloya—Return—Depth of Lake Managua—Communication between the
two Lakes—Popular Errors, 383
CHAPTER XVI.—Second Antiquarian Expedition—The Shores of Lake
Managua once more—Matearas—Don Henrique’s Comadre—I am engaged as
Godfather—An Amazon—Santa Maria de Buena Vista—A “Character” in
Petticoats—“La Negrita y La Blanquita”—Purchase of Buena Vista—A
Yankee Idea in a Nicaraguan Head—Hints for Speculators—Muchacho
vs. Burro—Equestrian Intoxication—Another
Apostrophe!—Pescadors—“Hay no mas,” and “Esta aqui,” as Measures
of Distance—Managua—The “Malpais,” Nindiri and Masaya—Something
Cool—A Pompous Alcalde—How to Arrest Conspirators—Flowers of the
Palm—Descent to the Lake—Memorials of Catastrophes—Las
Aguadoras—New Mode of Sounding Depths—Ill-bred Monkeys—Traditional
Practices—Oviedo’s Account of the Lake in 1529—Sardines—The Plaza
on Market Night—A Yankee Clock—Something Cooler—A State Bedroom
for a Minister—Ancient Church—Filling out a Vocabulary—“Quebrada
de las Inscripciones”—Sculptured Rocks—Their Character—Ancient
Excavations in the Rock—“El Baño”—Painted Rocks of Santa
Catarina—Night Ride to Granada—The Laguna de Salinas by
Moonlight—Granada in Peace—A Query Touching Human Happiness—New
Quarters and Old Friends—An American Sailor—His Adventures—“Win or
Die”—A Happy Sequel, 413
CHAPTER XVII.—Visit to Pensacola—Discovery of Monuments—Search for
others—Success—Departure for “El Zapatero”—La Carlota—Los
Corales—Isla de La Santa Rosa—A Night Voyage—Arrival at
Zapatero—Search for Monuments—False Alarm—Discovery of
Statues—Indians from Ometepec—A Strong Force—Further
Investigations—Mad Dance—Extinct Crater and Volcanic Lake—Stone of
Sacrifice—El Canon—Description of Monuments, and their probable
Origin—Life on the Island, 447
CHAPTER XVIII.—Return to Granada—A Ball in Honor of “El
Ministro”—The Funambulos—Departure for Rivas or Nicaragua—Hills of
Scoriæ—The Insane Girl and the Brown Samaritan—A Way-side
Idol—Mountain Lakes and Strange Birds—A Sudden Storm—Take Refuge
among the “Vaqueros”—Inhospitable Reception—Night Ride; Darkness
and Storm—Friendly Indians—Indian Pueblo of Nandyme—The Hacienda
of Jesus Maria—An Astonished Mayor Domo—How to get a
Supper—Jicorales—Ochomogo—Rio Gil Gonzales—The “Obraje”—Rivas and
its Dependencies—Señor Hurtado—His Cacao Plantation—The
City—Effect of Earthquakes and of Shot—Attack of Somoza—Another
American—His attempt to cultivate Cotton on the Island of
Ometepec—Murder of his Wife—Failure of his Enterprize—A Word about
Cotton Policy—The Antiquities of Ometepec—Aboriginal Burial
Places—Funeral Vases—Relics of Metal—Golden Idols—A Copper
Mask—Antique Pottery—A Frog in Verd Antique—Sickness of my
Companions—The Pueblo of San Jorge—Shore of the Lake—Feats of
Horsemanship—Lance Practice—Visit Potosi—Another Remarkable Relic
of Aboriginal Superstition—The Valley of Brito—An Indigo
Estate—Cultivation of Indigo—Village of Brito—A Decaying Family
and a Decayed Estate—An Ancient Vase—Observations on the Proposed
Canal—Return alone to Granada—Despatches—A forced March to Leon, 491
CHAPTER XIX.—Volcanoes of Central America; their Number—Volcano of
Jorullo—Isalco—The Volcanic Chain of the Marabios—Infernales—“La
Baila de Los Demonios”—Volcanic Outburst on the Plain of
Leon—Visit to the New Volcano, and Narrow Escape—Baptizing a
Volcano—Eruption of Coseguina—Celebration of its
Anniversary—Synchronous Earthquakes—Late Earthquakes in Central
America—Volcano of Telica—El Volcan Viejo—Subterranean Lava
Beds—Activity of the Volcanoes of the Marabios in the 16th
Century—The Phenomena of Earthquakes—Earthquake of Oct. 27,
1849—Volcanic Features of the Country—Extinct Craters—Volcanic
Lakes—The Volcano of Nindiri or Masaya—Descent into it by the Fray
Blas de Castillo—Extraordinary Description, 525
CHAPTER XX.—Christmas—Nacimientos—The Cathedral on Christmas
Eve—Midnight Ceremonies—An Alarm—Attempt at Revolution—Fight in
the Plaza—Triumph of Order—The Dead—Melancholy Scenes—A Scheme of
Federation, 551
CHAPTER XXI.—The “Paseo al Mar”—Preparations for the Annual Visit to
the Sea—The Migration—Impromptu Dwellings—Indian Potters—The
Salines—The Encampment—First Impressions—Contrabanda—Old
Friends—The Camp by Moonlight—Practical Jokes—A Brief Alarm—Dance
on the Shore—Un Juego—Lodgings, Cheap and Romantic—An Ocean
Lullaby—Morning—Sea Bathing—Routine of the
Paseo—Divertisements—Return to Leon, 561
CHAPTER XXII.—Proposed Visit to San Salvador and Honduras—Departure from
Leon—Chinandega—Ladrones—The Goitre—Gigantic Forest Trees—Port of
Tempisque—The Estero Real and its Scenery—A novel Custom house and
its Commandante—Night on the Estero—Bay of Fonseca—Volcano of
Conseguina—The Island of Tigre—Port of Amapala—View from the
Island—Entrance to the Bay—Sacate Grande—Exciting News from
Honduras—English Fortifications—Extent, Resources, and Importance
of the Bay—Departure for the Seat of War, 575
CHAPTER XXIII.—Departure for San Lorenzo—Morning Scenes—Novel
Cavalcade—A High Plain—Life amongst Revolutions—Nacaome—Military
Reception—General Cabañas—An Alarm—Negotiations—British
Interference—A Truce—Prospects of Adjustment—An Evening Review—The
Soldiery—A Night Ride—Return to San Lorenzo, 595
CHAPTER XXIV.—La Union—Oysters—American Books—Chiquirin—French
Frigate “La Serieuse”—Admiral Hornby of the Asia, 84—French and
English war Vessels—Ascent of the Volcano of Conchagua—A Mountain
Village—Peculiarities of the Indians—Las Tortilleras—Volcano of
San Miguel—Fir Forests—An Ancient Volcano Vent—The Crater of
Conchagua—Peak of Scoriæ—View from the Volcano—Enveloped in
Clouds—Perilous Descent—Yololtoca—Pueblo of Conchagua again—An
Obsequio—Indian Welcome—Semana Santa—Devils—Surrender of
Guardiola—San Salvador—Its Condition and Relations, 613
CHAPTER XXV.—Departure for the United States—An American Hotel in
Granada—Los Cocos—Voyage through the Lake—Descent of the River—San
Juan—Chagres—Home—Outline of Nicaraguan Constitution—Conclusion of
Narrative, 633
APPENDIX.
CHAPTER I.—General Account of Nicaragua; its Boundaries, Topography,
Lakes, Rivers, Ports, Climate, Population, Productions, Mines,
etc., etc., 639
CHAPTER II.—The Proposed Inter-Oceanic Canal; Early Explorations;
Survey of Colonel Childs in 1851; Various Lines proposed from Lake
Nicaragua to the Pacific, etc., etc., 657
CHAPTER III.—Outline of Negotiations in respect to the Proposed
Canal, etc., etc. 672
ILLUSTRATIONS.
----------
MAP.
GENERAL MAP OF NICARAGUA.
LITHOGRAPHS.
PAGE
1—IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, Nos. 2 and 3, _Facing_ 474
2—IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, Nos. 4 and 5, ” 478
3—IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, Nos. 6 and 7, ” 479
4—IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, Nos. 15 and 16, ” 486
WOOD ENGRAVINGS.
1—ARMS OF NICARAGUA, _Title_.
2—VIEW OF LAKE NICARAGUA, FROM THE SANDOVAL HACIENDA, NEAR _Frontispiece_.
GRANADA,
3—SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA, 1849, 25
4—“OUR HOUSE,” SAN JUAN, 35
5—HUT OF MOSQUITO INDIANS, 39
6—SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA, 1853, 54
7—THE BONGO “LA GRANADINA,” 60
8—VIEW ON SAN JUAN RIVER, 73
9—EL CASTILLO VIEJO, OR OLD FORT, 77
10—SENTINEL’S BOX AT EL CASTILLO, 82
11—THE IGUANA, 90
12—FORT OF SAN CARLOS, 95
13—STORM ON LAKE NICARAGUA, 99
14—PUEBLO OF SAN MIGUELITO, 99
15—THE PLANTAIN TREE, 119
16—ANCIENT VASE, 120
17—NICARAGUAN MEAT MARKET, 120
18—VIEWS ON ROAD TO THE MALACCAS, 156
19—PIEDRA DE LA BOCA, 179
20—NICARAGUAN CART, 182
21—AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS, 200
22—VIEW OF LAKE MANAGUA, 209
23—VIEW NEAR NAGAROTE, 209
24—HOUSE IN PUEBLO NUEVO, 221
25—PLAN OF HOUSE IN LEON, 241
26—GREAT CATHEDRAL OF LEON, 244
27—CHURCH OF MERCED AND VOLCANO OF EL VIEJO, 247
28—VOLCANOES OF AXUSCO AND MOMOTOMBO, 247
29—ANCIENT METLAL OR GRINDING STONE, 256
30—ORNAMENTS ON SAME, 257
31—MACHETE AND TOLEDO, 260
32—PAROCHIAL CHURCH OF SUBTIABA, 266
33—PRIMITIVE SPINNING APPARATUS, 269
34—SPINNING, FROM A MEXICAN MS., 270
35—PRIMITIVE WEAVING, 271
36—MODERN POTTERY AND CARVING, 273
37—INDIAN GIRL, IN FULL COSTUME, 274
38—COURTYARD OF HOUSE IN LEON, 284
39—IDOL FROM MOMOTOMBITA, No. 1, 286
40—IDOL FROM MOMOTOMBITA, No. 2, 296
41—FRONT VIEW OF SAME, 297
42—COLOSSAL HEAD FROM MOMOTOMBITA, 298
43—IDOL FROM SUBTIABA, No. 1, 302
44—IDOL FROM SUBTIABA, No. 2, 303
45—IDOL FROM SUBTIABA, No. 3, 304
46—SIDE VIEW OF IDOL, No. 1, 311
47—IDOL FROM SUBTIABA, No. 4, 312
48—RUINS OF ANCIENT CHURCH, 312
49—STREET VIEW IN LEON, 323
50—NICARAGUAN PLOUGH, 327
51—PROCESSION OF HOLY WEEK, 328
52—GENERAL VIEW OF CHINENDAGA, 349
53—CHURCH AND PLAZA OF CHINENDAGA, 351
54—PORT OF REALEJO, 351
55—LAKE NIHAPA, AN EXTINCT CRATER, 392
56—PAINTED ROCKS OF MANAGUA, 393
57—SANTIAGO, AN ANCIENT CARVING, 401
58—IDOL AT MANAGUA, 402
59—LAKE AND VOLCANO OF MASAYA, 425
60—RUINED GATEWAY, MASAYA, 425
61—SCULPTURED ROCKS OF MASAYA, 437
62—VIEW IN THE “QUEBRADA DE LAS INSCRIPCIONES,” 439
63—CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO, GRANADA, 443
64—IDOL AT PENSACOLA, No. 1, 451
65—IDOL AT PENSACOLA, No. 2, 455
66—IDOL AT PENSACOLA, No. 3, 455
67—THE BONGO “LA CARLOTA,” 459
68—IDOL AT ZAPATERO, No. 1, 471
69—STONE OF SACRIFICE, 476
70—PLAN OF MONUMENTS, 477
71—IDOL AT ZAPATERO, No. 9, 481
72—IDOL AT ZAPATERO, No. 10, 483
73—IDOLS AT ZAPATERO, Nos. 11 and 12, 485
74—IDOL AT ZAPATERO, No. 13, 486
75—SCULPTURED ROCK, 488
76—BURIAL VASES FROM OMOTEPEC, 509
77—VASES FROM OMOTEPEC, 510
78—COPPER MASK, 511
79—FROG IN GREEN STONE, 511
80—GROUP OF ABORIGINAL RELICS, 515
81—NEW VOLCANO ON PLAIN OF LEON, 515
82—THE PAROQUET, 550
83—VIEW ON LAKE MANAGUA, 560
84—THE TOUCAN, 574
85—THE CRIMSON CRANE, 582
86—VIEW ON THE ESTERO REAL, 587
87—VOLCANO OF COSEGUINA FROM THE SEA, 587
88—VOLCANO OF COSEGUINA, 589
89—MOUNTAIN SCENERY IN HONDURAS, 601
90—LA UNION AND VOLCANO OF CONCHAGUA, 612
91—CHURCH OF LA UNION, 612
92—LAS TORTILLERAS, 621
93—VOLCANO OF OMOTEPEC FROM VIRGIN BAY, 643
94—PORT OF SAN JUAN DEL SUR, 646
95—MOUTH OF RIO LAJAS, 660
PREFACE
TO REVISED EDITION.
----------
Since the publication of the original edition of this work, in 1852, the
beautiful but hapless Republic of Nicaragua has been the theatre of a
series of startling events which have concentrated upon it not only the
attention of the American public, but of all civilized nations. It has
been made the arena of aimless, and not always reputable diplomatic
contests, and of an obstinate and bloody struggle between a handful of
Northern adventurers and an effete and decadent race. And unless the
future shall strangely betray the indications of the present, it is
destined to pass through a succession of still severer throes, in its
advance to that political status and commercial importance inseparable
from its geographical position and natural resources. For, in Nicaragua,
and there alone, has Nature combined those requisites for a water
communication between the seas, which has so long been the dream of
enthusiasts, and which is a desideratum of this age, as it will be a
necessity of the next. There too has she lavished, with a bountiful
hand, her richest tropical treasures; and the genial earth waits only
for the touch of industry to reward the husbandman a hundredfold with
those products, which, while they contribute to his wealth, add to the
comfort and give employment to the laborer of distant and less favored
lands.
Public interest, and especially American interest in Nicaragua must
therefore constantly increase; and the desire to know the
characteristics of the country, its scenery and products, and the habits
and customs of its people, can never diminish. In the Narrative which
follows, these are faithfully presented; and though, in some cases,
there may be a needless amplitude of incidents, yet even this is
probably not without its use in relieving descriptions and details which
might otherwise prove dry and repulsive in form. In all essential
respects, Nicaragua is little changed since 1850, and since a later
visit of the author in 1854. It is true, Granada has been added to its
list of ruined cities, and Rivas and Masaya bear the scars of battles on
their walls. The people have perhaps a more thoughtful look, as becomes
men realizing that the fulness of time has finally brought them within
the circle of the world’s movement, and that they must assume and
discharge the responsibilities of their new position, or give place to
those who are equal to the requirements of this age and prompt to
recognize their duties to their fellow men.
But in all other respects, as I have said, the country is unchanged. Its
high and regular volcanic cones, its wooded plains, broad lakes, bright
rivers, and emerald verdure are still the same. The _aguadora_ still
steps along firmly under her heavy water jar, or climbs, panting, up the
cliffs that surround the Lake of Masaya. The naked children, in average
color possibly a shade lighter than before, still bestride the hips of
nurse or mother. Small and pensive mules still trudge to market, ears
and feet alone visible beneath their green loads of _sacate_. The _mozo_
and his _machete_, the red-belted cavalier, on scarlet _pillion_,
pricking his champing horse through the streets, the languid Señora
puffing the smoke of her cigaretta in lazy jets through her nostrils—the
sable priest, with _gallo_ under his arm, hurrying to the nearest cock
pit—the shrill _quien vive_ of the bare-footed sentinel—the rat-tat-too
of the afternoon drum—the eternal Saints’ days, and banging
_bombas_—all, all are the same!
NEW YORK, September, 1859
[Illustration:
MAP OF
NICARAGUA
Showing its
DEPARTMENTAL DIVISIONS
and proposed Routes of
INTEROCEANIC COMMUNICATION
By E. G. Squier.
1860
]
NARRATIVE.
----------
CHAPTER I.
THE BRIG FRANCIS—DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK—SAN DOMINGO—THE COAST OF
CENTRAL AMERICA—MONKEY POINT—SHREWD SPECULATIONS—A NAKED
PILOT—ALMOST A SHIPWRECK—SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA—MUSIC OF THE CHAIN
CABLE—A POMPOUS OFFICIAL—DELIVERING A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION—TERRA
FIRMA AGAIN—“NAGUAS” AND “GUIPILS”—THE TOWN AND ITS LAGUNA—SNAKES
AND ALLIGATORS—PRACTICAL EQUALITY—CELT VS. NEGRO—A WAN POLICEMAN—THE
BRITISH CONSUL GENERAL FOR MOSQUITIA—“OUR HOUSE” IN SAN JUAN—AN
EMEUTE—PIGS AND POLICE—A VISCOMTE ON THE STUMP—A SERENADE—MOSQUITO
INDIANS—A PICTURE OF PRIMITIVE SIMPLICITY.
The following narrative will serve to give a general, and, on the whole,
it is believed, a correct notion of the State or Republic of Nicaragua,
and of the character and peculiarities of its inhabitants, as they would
be apt to impress themselves on the mind of a traveller without strong
prejudices, with good health and a cheerful temper, and disposed withal
to regard men and things from a sunny point of view. Matters of a
didactic kind, statistics, and information on special subjects, such as
the proposed Interoceanic Canal, are left to find a place, as they best
can, after impressions and incidents—the round of beef, in this
instance, following the sweets and pastry.
The point in Nicaragua most accessible to the traveller from the United
States, is the now well-known port of San Juan de Nicaragua, which our
respected uncle of England, in furtherance of some occult designs of his
own, has vainly endeavored to christen anew with the ghastly name of
“Greytown.” The little brig “Francis” was up for this port in the early
part of May, in the year of grace 1849; and, for satisfactory reasons,
overruling all choice in the premises, berths were engaged in her for
myself and companions. She lay at the foot of Roosevelt street, in the
_terra incognita_ beyond the Bowery,—a pigmy amongst the larger vessels
which surrounded her. We reported ourselves on board, in compliance with
the special request of the owners, at 9 o’clock on the morning of the
11th, just as the human tide ebbed from the high-water mark of Fourth
street and Union Square, and subsided for the day amongst the rugged
banks and dangerous shallows of Wall and Pearl streets.
The Francis had received her freight, and her decks were encumbered with
pigs and poultry, spars and tarpaulins, to say nothing of water casks
and tar barrels, forbidding in advance any peregrinations, by unsteady
landsmen, beyond the quarter deck. The quarter deck was so called by
courtesy only: it was elevated but a few inches above the waist, and,
deducting the room occupied by hen-coops, water-casks, and the man at
the helm, afforded but about ten square feet of space, in which the
unfortunate passengers might “recreate” themselves. This might have
sufficed for men of moderate desires, but then it was far from being
“contiguous territory.”
In a word, we found ourselves in the midst of a confusion which none but
the experienced traveller can coolly contemplate. Our friends, or rather
the more daring of them, scrambled over the intervening decks, or hailed
us from the rigging of the neighboring vessels. We would have invited
them on board, but there was no room to receive them; besides the
descent was perilous. All partings are much alike, but ours were made
with a prodigious affectation of good spirits. We were to have sailed
precisely at ten; but when eleven was chimed, the number which had come
“expressly to see us off,” was sensibly diminished; and at twelve we
were left to our own contemplations.
There was a prodigious pulling of ropes; the same boxes were tumbled
from one place to another and back again; trunks disappeared and came to
light, and it seemed as if everybody was engaged in a grand search for
nobody knew what. At one o’clock the pilot came on board. The delay had
become painful, and now we thought the time for sailing had arrived. But
the pilot was a fat man, and sat down imperturbably upon a water-cask.
“Well, Mr. Pilot, are we off?” He deigned no audible reply, but glanced
upwards significantly towards the streamer at the masthead. The wind
blew briskly in from the Narrows. So we seated ourselves upon the
water-casks also, and watched the men who were painting the next ship,
and almost nodded ourselves to sleep, to the monotonous “yo-ho” of the
sailors unloading an Indiaman near by. The roar of Broadway fell subdued
and distant upon our ears; and the ferry-boats and little steamers in
the river seemed to move about in silence, going to and fro apparently
without an object, like ants around an anthill.
By-and-by a little, black bull-dog of a steamer thrust itself valiantly
through the crowd of vessels, made a rope fast to our bows, and dragged
us, with a jerk, triumphantly into the stream, past Governor’s Island,
down to the outer bay, and then left us to take care of ourselves. That
night the sun went down cold and filmy, and the Francis tumbled roughly
about amidst the dark waves of the Atlantic. * * * A calm under the high
capes of San Domingo,—an infinitude of thunder squalls, with the
pleasant consciousness of a hundred kegs of gunpowder stowed snugly
around the foot of the mainmast,—a “close shave” on the coral reefs
below Jamaica,—for twenty-six mortal days this was all which we had of
relief from the detestable monotony of shipboard. Blessed be steam! * *
* *
It was a dark and rainy morning, when “Land on the lee-bow,” was sung
out by the man at the helm, and in less time than is occupied in writing
it, the occupants of the close little cabin made their way on deck, to
look for the first time upon the coast of Central America. The dim
outlines of the land were just discernible through the murky atmosphere,
and many and profound were the conjectures hazarded as to what precise
point was then in view. The result finally arrived at was, that we were
off “Monkey Point,” about thirty miles to the northward of our destined
port. This conclusion was soon confirmed by observing, close under the
shadow of the shore, an immense rock, rising with all the regularity of
the Pyramids to the height of three hundred feet; a landmark too
characteristic to be mistaken.
We were sweeping along with a stiff breeze, and were comforted with the
assurance that we should be in port to breakfast, “_if_,” as the
cautious captain observed, “the wind held.” But the perverse wind did
not hold, and in half an hour thereafter we were rocking about with a
wash-tubby motion, the most disagreeable that can be imagined, and of
which we had had three days’ experience under the Capes of San Domingo.
The haze cleared a little, and with our glasses we could make out a
long, low line of shore, covered with the densest verdure, with here and
there the feathery palm, which forms so picturesque a feature in all
tropical scenery, lifting itself proudly above the rest of the forest,
and the whole relieved against a background of high hills, over which
the gray mist still hung like a veil.
Some of the party could even make out the huts on the shore; but the old
man at the helm smiled incredulously, and said there were no huts there,
and that the unbroken and untenanted forest extended far back to the
great ridge of the Cordilleras. So it was when the adventurous Spaniards
coasted here three centuries ago, and so it had remained ever since.
These observations were interrupted by a heavy shower, acceptable for
the wind it brought, which filled the idle sails, and moved us towards
our haven. And though the rain fell in torrents, it did not deter us
from getting soaked, in vain endeavors to harpoon the porpoises that
came tumbling in numbers around our bows.
But the shower passed, and with it our breeze, and again the brig rocked
lazily on the water, which was now filled with branches of trees, and
among the rubbish that drifted past, a broken spear and a cocoa-nut
attracted particular attention; the one showed the proximity of a people
whose primitive weapons had not yet given place to those more effective,
of civilized ingenuity, and the other was a certain index of the
tropics. The shower passed, but it had carried us within sight of our
port. Those who had previously seen cabins on the shore could not now
perceive any evidences of human habitation, and stoutly persisted that
we had lost our reckoning, and that we were far from our destined haven.
But a trim schooner which was just then seen moving rapidly along under
a pouring shower, in the same direction with ourselves, silenced the
pretended doubters, and became immediately a subject of great
speculation. It was finally agreed on all hands that it must be the B——,
a vessel which left New York three days before us, the captain of which
had boasted that he would “beat us in, by at least ten days.” So
everybody was anxious that the little brig should lead him into the
harbor, and many were the objurgations upon the wind, and desperate the
attempts of the sailors to avail themselves of every “cat’s-paw” that
passed.
The excitement was great, and some of the impatient passengers inquired
for sweeps, and recommended putting out the yawl to tow the vessel in.
They even forgot, such was the excitement, to admire the emerald shores
which were now distinct, not more than half a mile distant, and prayed
that a black-looking thunder-storm, looming gloomily in the east, might
make a diversion in our favor. And then a speck was discerned in the
direction of the port; and by-and-by the movement of the oars could be
seen, and bodies swaying to and fro, and in due time a _pit-pan_, a
long, sharp-pointed canoe, pulled by a motley set of mortals, stripped
to the waist, and displaying a great variety of skins, from light yellow
to coal black, darted under our bows, and a burly fellow in a shirt
pulled off his straw hat to the captain, and inquired in bad English,
“Want-ee ah pilot?” The mate consigned him to the nether regions for a
lubber, and inquired what had become of his eyes, and if he couldn’t
tell the Francis anywhere; the Francis, which “had made thirty-seven
voyages to this port, and knew the way better than any black son of a
gun who ever put to sea in a bread-trough!” And then the black fellow in
a shirt and straw hat was again instructed to go below, or if he
preferred, to go and “pilot in the lubberly schooner to windward.” The
black fellow looked blacker than before, and said something in an
unintelligible jargon to the rest, and away they darted for the
schooner.
Meantime the flank of the thunder storm swept towards us, piling up a
black line of water, crested with foam, while it approached with a noise
like that of distant thunder. It came upon us; the sails fluttered a
moment and filled, the yards creaked, the masts bent to the strain, and
the little brig dashed rapidly through the hissing water. In the
darkness we lost sight of the schooner, and the shore was no longer
visible, but we kept on our way; the Francis knew the road, and seemed
full of life, and eager to reach her old anchorage.
“Don’t she scud!” said the mate, who rubbed his hands in very glee. “If
this only holds for ten minutes more, we’re in, like a spike!”—and,
strange to say, it did hold; and when it was past we found ourselves
close to “Point Arenas,” a long narrow spit, partly covered with water,
which shuts in the harbor, leaving only a narrow opening for the
admission of vessels. The schooner was behind us, but here was a
difficulty. The bar had changed since his last trip; the captain was
uncertain as to the entrance, and the surf broke heavily under our lee.
Excitement of another character prevailed as we moved slowly on, where a
great swell proclaimed the existence of shallows. The captain stood in
the bow, and we watched the captain. Suddenly he cried, “Hard a-port!”
with startling emphasis, and “Hard a-port!” was echoed by the helmsman,
as he swept round the tiller. But it was too late; the little vessel
struck heavily as the wave fell.
“Thirty-seventh, and last!” muttered the mate between his teeth, as he
rushed to the fastenings, and the main-sail came down on the run. “Round
with the boom, my men!” and the boom swung round, just as the brig
struck again, with greater force than before, unshipping the rudder, and
throwing the helmsman across the deck. “Round again, my men! lively, or
the Francis is lost!” cheered the mate, who seemed invested with
superhuman strength and agility; and as the boom swung round the wave
fell, but the Francis did not strike. “Clear she is!” shouted the mate,
who leaped upon the companion-way, and waved his hat in triumph; and
turning towards the schooner, “Do _that_, ye divil, and call yerself a
sailor!” There was no doubt about it; the Francis was in before the
schooner; and notwithstanding the accident to her rudder, she passed
readily to her old anchoring ground, in the midst of a spacious harbor,
smooth as a mill-pond. There was music in the rattling cable as the
anchor was run out, and the Francis moved slowly round, with her
broadside towards the town. The well was tried, but she had made no
water, which was the occasion for a new ebullition of joy on the part of
the mate.
All danger past, we had an opportunity to look about us. We were not
more than two cable-lengths from a low sandy shore, upon which was
ranged, in a line parallel to the water, a double row of houses, or
rather huts, some built of boards, but most of reeds, and all thatched
with palm-leaves. Some came down to the water, like sheds, and under one
end were drawn up pit-pans and canoes. Larger contrivances for
navigating the San Juan river, resembling canal-boats, were also moored
close in shore, and upon each might be seen a number of very long and
very black legs, every pair of which was surmounted by a very short
white shirt. In the centre of the line of houses, which was no other
than the town of San Juan de Nicaragua, was an open space, and in the
middle of this was a building larger than the others, but of like
construction, surrounded by a high fence of canes, and near one end rose
a stumpy flag-staff, and from its top hung a dingy piece of bunting,
closely resembling the British Union Jack; and this was the custom-house
of San Juan, the residence of all the British officials; and the flag
was that of the “King of the Mosquitos,” the “ally of Great Britain!”
But of this mighty potentate, and how the British officials came there,
more anon. Just opposite us, on the shore, was an object resembling some
black monster which had lost its teeth and eyes, and seemed sorry that
it had left its kindred at the Novelty Works. It was the boiler of a
steamer, which some adventurous Yankees had proposed putting up here,
but which, from some defect, had proved useless. Behind the town rose
the dense tropical forest. There were no clearings, no lines of road
stretching back into the country; nothing but dense, dark solitudes,
where the tapir and the wild boar roamed unmolested; where the painted
macaw and the noisy parrot, flying from one giant cebia to another,
alone disturbed the silence; and where the many-hued and numerous
serpents of the tropics coiled among the branches of strange trees,
loaded with flowers and fragrant with precious gums. The whole scene was
unprecedentedly novel and picturesque. There was a strange blending of
objects pertaining to the extremes of civilization. The boiler of the
steamer was side by side with the graceful canoe, identical with that in
which the simple natives of Hispaniola brought fruits to Columbus; and
men in stiff European costumes were seen passing among others, whose
dark, naked bodies, protected only at the loins, indicated their descent
from the aborigines who had disputed the possession of the soil with the
mailed followers of Cordova, and made vain propitiations to the
symbolical sun to assist them against their enemies. Here they were,
unknowing and careless alike of Cordova or the sun, and ready to load
themselves like brutes, in order to earn a sixpence with which to get
drunk that night, in concert with the monotonous twanging of a
two-stringed guitar!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA.—1849.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Our anchor was hardly down before a canoe came alongside, containing as
variegated an assortment of passengers as can well be conceived. Among
them were the officers of the port, whose importance was made manifest
from the numerous and unnecessary orders they gave to the oarsmen, and
the prodigious bustle they made in getting up the side. They looked
inquiringly at the bright silken flag which one of the party held in his
hands, and which looked brighter than ever under the rays of the setting
sun. The eagles on the caps of the party were also objects which
attracted many inquiring glances; and directly the captain was withdrawn
into a corner, and asked the significance of all this. The answer seemed
to diminish the importance of the officials materially, and one
approached, holding his sombrero reverently in his hand, and said that
“Her Britannic Majesty’s Consul-General in Mosquitia, Mr. C——, was now
resident in the town, and that he should do himself the honor to
announce our arrival immediately, and hoped we had had a pleasant
voyage, and that we would avail ourselves of his humble services;” to
all of which gracious responses were given, together with a drop of
brandy, which last did not seem at all unacceptable. I had warm letters
of introduction to several of the leading inhabitants of San Juan, and
accordingly began to make inquiries as to their whereabouts of a
respectable looking negro, who was amongst the visiting party. To my
first question, as to whether Mr. S—— S—— was then in town, the colored
gentleman uncovered his head, bowed low, and said the humble individual
named was before me. I also uncovered myself, bowed equally low, and
assured him I was happy to make his acquaintance, delivering my letter
at the same time with all the grace possible under the circumstances.
He glanced over its contents, took off his hat again, and bowed lower
than before. Not to be behindhand in politeness, I went through the same
performance, which was responded to by a genuflection absolutely beyond
my power to undertake, without risk of a dislocation; so I resigned the
contest, and gave in “dead beat,” much to the entertainment of the Irish
mate, who was not deficient in the natural antipathy of his race towards
the negro. Ben, my colored servant, next received a welcome not less
cordial than my own; and my new acquaintance “was glad to inform me,
that fortunately there was a new house under his charge, which was then
vacant, and that he was happy in putting it at my disposal.” The
happiness was worth exactly eight dollars, as I discovered by a bill
which was presented to me four days thereafter, as we were on the point
of leaving for the interior; and which, considering that the usual rent
of houses here is from four to five dollars per month, was probably
intended to include pay for the genuflections on shipboard. We were
impatient to land, and could not wait for the yawl to be hoisted over
the side; so we crowded ourselves into the canoe of the “Harbor Master,”
and went on shore.
The population of the town was all there, many-hued and fantastically
attired. The dress of the urchins from twelve and fourteen downwards,
consisted generally of a straw hat and a cigar, the latter sometimes
unlighted and stuck behind the ear, but oftener lighted and stuck in the
mouth; a costume sufficiently airy and picturesque, and, as B——
observed, “excessively cheap.”
Most of the women had a simple white or flowered skirt (_nagua_)
fastened above the hips, with a “_guipil_” or sort of large vandyke,
with holes, through which the arms were passed, and which hung loosely
down over the breast. In some cases the _guipil_ was rather short, and
exposed a dark strip of skin from one to four inches wide, which the
wanton wind often made much broader. It was very clear that false hips
and other civilized contrivances had not reached here, and it was
equally clear that they were not needed to give fullness to the female
figures which we saw around us. All the women had their hair braided in
two long locks which hung down behind, and which gave them a
school-girly look quite out of keeping with the cool, deliberate manner
in which they puffed their cigars, occasionally forcing the smoke in
jets from their nostrils. Their feet were innocent of stockings, but the
more fashionable ladies wore silk or satin slippers, which (it is hoped
our scrutiny was not indelicately close) were quite as likely to be
soiled on the inside as the out. A number had gaudy-colored _rebosos_
thrown over their heads, and altogether, the entire group, with an
advance-guard of wolfish, sullen-looking curs, was strikingly novel, and
not a little picturesque. We leaped ashore upon the yielding sand with a
delight known only to the voyager who has been penned up for a month in
a small, uncomfortable vessel, and without further ceremony passed
through the crowd of gazers, and started down the principal avenue,
which, as we learned, had been called “King street” since the English
usurpation. The doors of the various queer-looking little houses were
all open, and in all of them might be seen hammocks suspended between
the front and back entrances, so as to catch the passing current of air.
In some of these, reclining in attitudes suggestive of most intense
laziness, were swarthy figures of men, whose constitutional apathy not
even the unwonted occurrence of the arrival, at the same moment, of two
ships could disturb. The women, it is needless to say, were all on the
beach, except a few decrepit old dames, who gazed at us from the
door-ways. Passing through the town, we entered the forest, followed by
a train of boys and some ill-looking, grown-up vagabonds. The path led
to a beautiful lagoon, fenced in by a bank of verdure, upon the edges of
which were a number of women, naked to the waist, who had not yet heard
the news; they were washing, an operation quite different from that of
our own country, and which consisted in dipping the clothes in the
water, placing them on the bottom of an old canoe, and beating them
violently with clubs. Visions of buttonless shirts rose up incontinently
in long perspective, as we turned down a narrow path which led along the
shores of the lagoon, and invited us to the cool, deep shades of the
forest. A flock of noisy paroquets were fluttering above us, and strange
fruits and flowers appeared on all sides. We had not gone far before
there was an odor of musk, and directly a plunge in the water. We
stopped short, but one of the urchins waved his hand contemptuously, and
said “Lagartos!” And sure enough, glancing through the bushes, we saw
two or three monstrous alligators slowly propelling themselves through
the water. “Devils in an earthly paradise!” muttered B——, who dropped
into the rear. The urchins noticed our surprise, and by way of comfort,
a little naked rascal in advance observed, looking suspiciously around
at the same time, “_Muchas culebras aqui_,”—“Many snakes here!” This
interesting piece of intelligence opened conversation, and we were not
long in ascertaining that but a few days previously, two men had been
bitten by snakes, and had died in frightful torments. It was soon
concluded that we had gone far enough, and that we had better defer our
walk in the woods to another day. It is scarcely necessary to observe,
that it was never resumed.
Returning, we met my colored friend, who informed me that there was a
quantity of hides stored in the house selected for my accommodation, but
that he would have them removed that evening, and the house ready for
our reception in the morning. Regarding ourselves as guests, whom it
became to assent to whatever suggestion our host might make, we answered
him that the arrangement was perfectly satisfactory, that we could sleep
that night comfortably on board the vessel—a terrible fib, by the way,
for we knew better—and that he might take his time in making such
provision for us as he thought proper. We then sauntered through the
town, looking into the door-ways, catching occasional glimpses of the
domestic economy of the inhabitants, and admiring not a little the
perfect equality and general good understanding which existed between
the pigs, babies, dogs, cats, and chickens. The pigs gravely took pieces
of _tortillas_ from the mouths of the babies, and the babies as gravely
took other pieces away from the pigs. B—— observed that this was as near
an approach to those millennial days when the lion and the lamb should
lie down together as we should probably live to see, and suggested that
a particular “note” should be made of it for the comfort of Father
Miller and the Second-Advent Saints in general. There was one house in
which we noticed a row of shelves containing sundry articles of
merchandise, among which long-necked bottles of various pleasant hues
were most conspicuous, and in front of which was a rude counter, behind
which again was a short lady of considerably lighter complexion than the
average, to whom our colored friend tipped his hat gallantly, informing
us at the same time that this was the “Maison de Commerce de Viscomte A.
de B—— B—— et Co.;” the “Et Co.” consisting of the Viscomte’s wife, two
sons, and five daughters, whose names all appeared in full in the
Viscomte’s circulars. Had we been told that here was the residence of
some cazique with an unpronounceable name, we might have thought the
thing in keeping, and passed on without ceremony; but a Viscomte was not
to be treated so lightly, and we turned and bowed profoundly to the
short lady behind the counter, who rose and courtesied with equal
profundity.
We reached the beach just as the sun was setting, where we found our
mate with the yawl: “An’ it bates any city ye’ve seen, I’ll be bound!
It’s pier number one, is this blessed spot of dirt where ye are just
now; may be ye don’t know it! And yonder hen-coop is the custom-house,
be sure! and that dirty clout is the Nagur King’s flag, bad luck to it!
and it’s meself who expects to live to see the stripes and forty stars
to back ’em, (divil a one less!) wavin’ here! Hurrah for Old Zack!—an’
it’s him that can do it!”
It was clear that our mate, who had not looked at a bottle during the
whole voyage, thought a “d’hrap” necessary to neutralize the miasma of
San Juan.
“Perhaps ye know what ye’r laughing at, my dark boy; an’ it’s meself
that’ll be afther givin’ ye a taste of the way we Yankees do the thing,
savin’ the presence of his honor here,” said the mate, dashing his hat
on the ground, and advancing a step toward my new acquaintance, who
recoiled in evident alarm. We interposed, and the mate cooled at once,
and shook hands cordially with the colored gentleman, although he
spoiled the amende by immediately going to the water’s brink and
carefully washing his palms.
While this scene was transpiring, a ghostly-looking individual, wan with
numberless fevers, approached us. He was dressed in white, wore a jacket
and a glazed cap, and upon the latter, in gilded capitals, we read
“POLICE.” He took off his cap, bowed low, for he was used to it, and
said that Her Britannic Majesty’s Consul General presented his respects
to the gentlemen, regretted that, being confined to his house by bodily
infirmity, he could not wait on them in person, and hoped that under the
circumstances the gentlemen would do him the favor to call upon him.
We responded by following the lead of the wan policeman (there was only
one other, the rest had run away,) who opened a wicket leading within
the cane enclosure of the custom-house, entered that building, and
ascending a rough, narrow, and ricketty flight of stairs, we were
ushered into what at home would be called a shocking bad garret, but
which were the apartments of Her Britannic Majesty’s Consul General. A
long table stood in the centre, and a couple of candles flared in the
breeze that came in at the unglazed openings at either end of the
apartment, giving a dim intermittent light, by means of which, however,
we succeeded in discovering Mr. C——, the Consul General. He was
reclining on a rude settee, and rose with difficulty to welcome us. He
apologized for his rough quarters, betraying by his pronunciation that
his youth at least had been passed among the haunted glens of Scotland.
He had formerly been a member of Parliament, and had been nearly a year
on this coast, in a service clearly little congenial to his feelings,
and far from being in accordance with his notions of honor and justice.
We found him intelligent and agreeable, and as free from prejudices as a
Briton could be, without ceasing to be a Briton and a Scot.
The evening passed pleasantly, (“barring” the mosquitos,) and though we
were told of scorpions, which are often found when people turn down
their blankets, and of numerous lizards, which insinuate themselves over
night in one’s boots, we were too glad to get on shore to be much
alarmed by the recital. Upon leaving, we were pressed to come every day
to the consulate to dine; for we were assured, and with truth, that it
was impossible to procure a reasonably decent meal elsewhere in the
town. The Nicaraguans at the fort above, it was asserted, had bought up
all the vegetables and edibles intended for San Juan, having determined
to starve the hated English out, and there was not a foot of cultivated
ground within fifty miles; consequently the market was poorly supplied,
except with ship provisions, and of these we had had quite enough. This
was far from being comfortable, for we had expected to find at San Juan
a profusion of all the productions of the tropics, concerning which
travellers had written so enthusiastically; to be put, therefore, on
allowances of ship-biscuit and salt pork, was too much to permit any
consideration of delicacy, so we accepted Mr. C——’s generous offer,
returning on board to be phlebotomized by a horde of barbarous
mosquitos, and to get up next morning feverish and unrefreshed, and only
prevented from appealing to the medicine-chest by the happy
consciousness that we were near the land.
[Illustration: “OUR HOUSE” AT SAN JUAN.]
The cook’s nondescript mess to which we had been treated every morning
since we left New York, and which had been called by way of courtesy
“breakfast,” was soon disposed of, and we went on shore, where our
colored friend received us with a low bow, informing us at the same time
that our house was ready. He led the way to a building not far distant
from the “Maison de Commerce,” opening upon aristocratic King street. It
was constructed of rough boards, and was elevated on posts, so that
everybody who entered had to take a short run and flying leap, and was
fortunate if he did not miss his aim and bark his shins in the attempt.
It was satisfactory to know that the structure was comparatively new,
and that the colonies of scorpions, lizards, house-snakes, cockroaches,
and the other numerous, nameless, and nondescript vermin which flourish
here, had not had time to multiply to any considerable extent. And
though there was a large pile of tobacco in bales in one corner, with no
other object movable or immovable in the room, the novelty of the thing
was enough to compensate for all deficiencies, and we ordered our
baggage to be at once brought to the house. By way, doubtless, of
indicating the capacity of the structure, our colored friend told us
that this had been the headquarters of a party of Americans bound for
California for the space of six weeks, and that forty of the number had
contrived to quarter here; a new and practical illustration of the
indefinite compressibility of Yankee matter, which surpassed all our
previous conceptions. Our friend had provided for us in other ways, and
had engaged a place where we might obtain our breakfasts, and proposed
to introduce us to the family which was to furnish that important meal.
The house was close by, and we were collectively and individually
presented to Monsieur S——, who had been a grenadier under Napoleon, had
served in numerous campaigns, had been in many bloody battles, and had
probably escaped being shot because he was too thin to be hit. We were
also introduced to the spouse of Monsieur S——, who was the very reverse
of her lord, and who gave us a very good breakfast and superb chocolate,
for which we paid only a dollar each per day. It was a blessed thing for
our exchequer that we didn’t dine, sup, and lodge there! At the same
place breakfasted a couple of Spanish gentlemen, who had come out in the
schooner, with a valuable cargo of goods for the interior. Our hostess
certainly could not have had the heart to charge them a dollar for
breakfast, for they had heard of revolutions and a terrible civil war in
Nicaragua, and had been frightened out of their appetites. A “bad
speculation” at the best was before them, perhaps pecuniary ruin. We
pitied them, but our appetites did not suffer from sympathy.
The day was passed in receiving visits of ceremony, arranging our new
quarters, rigging hammocks, (which we obtained, at but little more than
twice their actual value, at the “Maison de” Commerce of the Viscomte,)
and dragging to light and air our mildewed wardrobes. We thought of
consigning our soiled linen to the women at the lagoon; but the sturdy
blows of their clubs still sounded in our ears, and we trusted to the
future; but the future brought rough stones in place of the smooth
canoe!
That night we passed comfortably in our new quarters, interrupted only
by various droppings from the roof, which the active fancies of sundry
members of the party converted into scorpions and other noxious insects.
All slept, notwithstanding, until broad daylight next morning, when
every one was roused by the firing of guns, and a great noise of voices,
apparently in high altercation, combined with the cackling of hens, the
barking of dogs, and the squealing of pigs; a noise unprecedented for
the variety of its constituent sounds.
“A revolution, by Jove!” exclaimed M——, whose brain was full of the news
from the interior; “it has got here already!”
The doors were nevertheless thrown open, and every unkempt head was
thrust out to discover the cause of the tumult. The scene that presented
itself passes description. There was a mingled mass of men, women, and
children, some driving pigs and poultry, others flourishing sticks; here
a woman with a pig under one arm and a pair of chickens in each hand;
there an urchin gravely endeavoring to carry a long-nosed porker, nearly
as large as himself, and twice as noisy; there a busy party, forming a
cordon around a mother pig with a large family, and the whole excited,
swaying, screaming mass retreating before the two policemen in white,
each bearing a sword, a pistol, and a formidable looking blunderbuss.
“They are driving out the poor people,” said M——; “it is quite too bad!”
But the manner in which two or three old ladies flourished their sticks
in the faces of our wan friend and his companion, betokened, I thought,
anything but bodily fear. Still, the whole affair was a mystery; and
when the crowd stopped short before our doors, and every dark visage, in
which anger and supplication were strangely mingled, was turned towards
us, each individual vociferating the while, at the top of his voice, we
were puzzled beyond measure. “Death to the English!” was about all we
could gather, until the wan policeman came up and explained, under a
torrent of vituperation, that he and his companion were merely carrying
into effect a wholesome regulation which Her Majesty’s Consul General
had promulgated, to the effect that the inhabitants of San Juan (which
he called Greytown) should no longer allow the pigs and poultry to roam
at large, but should keep them securely “cooped and penned,” under
penalty of having them shot by Her Majesty’s servants; and as the
aforesaid pigs and poultry had roamed at their will since the time “the
memory of man runneth not back thereto,” and as there were neither coops
nor pens, it was very clear that the wholesome regulation could be but
partially complied with. A stout mulatto, behind the policeman, carried
a pig and several fowls, which had evidently met a recent and violent
end; and we had strong misgivings as to the manner in which the various
small porkers and chickens which we had encountered at the consul’s
table had been procured.
The pale policeman grew pathetic, and was almost moved to tears when he
said that, while in the performance of his duty, he was assailed as we
saw, and that all his explanations were unregarded, and he was disposed
to do as his companions had done—run away, and leave the town to the
dominion of the pigs and chickens.
The crowd, which had been comparatively quiet during this recital, now
broke out in reply, and gathering countenance from the presence of the
Americans, fairly hustled the policemen into the middle of the street,
and might have treated them to a cold bath in the harbor, had they not
been recalled by the voice of the Viscomte, who mounted a block and
declaimed furiously, in mingled Spanish and French, against the
“perfidious English,” and talked of natural and municipal rights in a
strain quite edifying, and eminently French. But as the Viscomte had
been instrumental in bringing the English there, he did not get much of
our sympathy. He had lost a pet pig that morning, which gave pith to his
speech; and we determined to pay our particular respects to it that
evening at the consul’s.
To the appeals made to us directly, we were, as became us,
diplomatically evasive; but the people were easily satisfied, and late
that night we were treated to a serenade, the pauses of which were
filled in with, “_Vivan los Americanos del Norte”_; and next day the
news was current that six American vessels of war were on their way to
San Juan to drive out the English, whose effective force consisted of
the wan policeman and his equally wan companion! And the consul himself
did us the honor to hope that we had said nothing to encourage the poor
people in their perversity, for he almost despaired of making them
respectable citizens! They couldn’t discern, he was sorry to say, their
own best interests. We might have suggested to him that circumstances
here were quite different from those which surrounded the little towns
of Scotland, and that which might be “good for the people” in one
instance, might be eminently out of place in another; but then it was
none of our business.
During the day we paid a visit to the other side of the harbor, where
some Mosquito Indians, who came down the coast to strike turtle, had
taken up their temporary residence. They were the most squalid wretches
imaginable, and their huts consisted of a few poles set in a slanting
direction, upon which was loosely thrown a quantity of palm leaves. The
sides were open, and altogether the structure must have cost fifteen
minutes’ labor. Under this shelter crowded a variety of half-naked
figures, begrimed with dirt, their faces void of expression, and
altogether brutish. They stared at us vacantly, and then resumed their
meal, which consisted of a portion of the flesh of the alligator and the
manitus, chopped in large pieces and thrown into the fire until the
outer portions were completely charred. These were devoured without
salt, and with a wolfish greediness which was horrible to behold. At a
little distance, away from the stench and filth, the huts, with the
groups beneath and around them, were really picturesque objects.
[Illustration: HUT OF MOSQUITO INDIANS.]
One hut had been vacated for the moment; against it the fishing-rods and
spears of its occupants were resting, and in front a canoe was drawn up;
this attracted our particular notice, and I had a sketch made of it on
the spot. As we paddled along the shore, we saw many thatched huts in
cool, leafy arbors, surrounded by spots of bare, hard ground, fleckered
with the sunlight, which danced in mazes as the wind waved the branches
above. Around them were dark, naked figures, and before them were light
canoes, drawn close to the bank, filling out the foreground of pictures
such as we had imagined in reading the quaint recitals of the early
voyagers, and the effects of which were heightened by the parrots and
macaws, fluttering their bright wings on the roofs of the huts, and
deafening the spectator with their shrill voices. Occasionally a tame
monkey was seen swinging by his tail from the branches of the trees, and
making grimaces at us as we passed.
The habits of the natives were unchanged in the space of three hundred
years; their dwellings were the same; the scenes we gazed upon were
counterparts of those which the Discoverers had witnessed. Eternal
summer reigned above them; their wants were few and simple, and profuse
nature supplied them in abundance with all the necessaries of existence.
They little thought that the party of strangers, gliding silently before
them, were there to prepare the way for the clanging steamer, and that
the great world without was meditating the Titanic enterprise of laying
open their primeval solitudes, grading down their hills, and opening,
from one great ocean to the other, a gigantic canal, upon which the
navies of the world might pass, laden with the treasures of two
hemispheres!