CHAPTER III

FONTAINEBLEAU AND COMPIÈGNE

Though still a young man when I was appointed to Paris--a man of

thirty-two years is considered to be quite young--I had already a

considerable experience of the world, and knew the society of most

European capitals, having been at every European Court. I was very well

able, therefore, to judge of what I saw, and to form a reliable opinion,

good or bad, of the people with whom I came into contact.

I must confess at once that I arrived in France with certain prejudices

against the regime, and I did not examine it at first with

over-indulgent eyes. But as I grew to know the Emperor and the Empress

well, many of these prejudices vanished. The kindness of the Emperor,

and his boundless generosity, could not but impress favourably, and as

for Eugénie, her powerful charm made one forget other sides of her

character. When in their presence it was difficult to realise that they

were Sovereigns, or to have the feeling, whether at the Tuileries, at

Compiègne, or at Fontainebleau, that one was at a Royal Court. A mixture

of formality and of gaiety without restraint was prevalent, which

entirely upset one’s notions of what should constitute the atmosphere of

a Court. Eugénie was an incomparable hostess, even if sometimes

eccentric; Napoleon was the most thoughtful of hosts, though restless at

times, and showing some impatience at different vagaries indulged in by

his guests; still, though each was addressed as “Your Majesty,” it was

in much the same spirit that one would have said “Monsieur” or

“Madame”; deference was lacking.

In spite of the shade of Bohemianism which presided over the annual

gatherings at Compiègne and at Fontainebleau, the invitations were

always coveted, and with reason, for a week spent at either place was

certainly most enjoyable. The autumn season generally saw the Sovereigns

at Compiègne, which the Empress liked very much, and there could be met

all the celebrities of modern France and a good many foreigners, whom

the Imperial couple liked to encourage to visit France, and on whom they

lavished every attention. They were generally asked to stay a full week,

and privileged persons were sometimes invited to extend their sojourn.

Life was very pleasant in this old home of the Bourbon dynasty, and the

liberty left to the guests to do what they liked added to its charm. One

rode, one hunted, one drove, and one flirted to one’s heart’s content,

and the only thing which was asked was punctuality at meals and

admiration for the beauty of the Empress.

The exceeding charm and beauty of the Empress was never more seen to

advantage than in one of her country homes, where she felt more at her

ease than in Paris. She used to ask privileged persons among her guests

to drink tea with her in the afternoon. On these occasions she appeared

at her best, talking on every subject, and discussing all the new books.

She rather prided herself on being what French people call “un bel

esprit,” and of caring for literature; she considered it a part of her

duty ostensibly to interest herself in the literary and scientific

movements of the day. She liked to make herself popular among writers

and artists, of whom there was generally a good sprinkling at Compiègne.

Among her favourites were Octave Feuillet, Mérimée, and Carpeaux. More

than once Carpeaux implored her to allow him to carve her bust, to

which, however, she would not agree. Mérimée had been a friend of her

mother’s, the Countess de Montijo, and had known her as a little girl;

indeed, people whispered softly that he had had a good deal to do with

her elevation to the throne, having admirably advised her at that

critical period of her existence when first she became the object of

Napoleon’s adoration.

Mérimée was a charming man in spite of his misanthropic tendencies and

his fits of bad temper, which caused him sometimes to say the rudest

things imaginable, but which in reality he did not mean at all. He was,

however, a privileged person, being customarily forgiven words which

would not have been tolerated in anyone else. He was, perhaps, amidst

the crowd which congregated in the vast halls and galleries of

Compiègne, the one who judged most clearly what was going on around him,

and I remember that one evening, when we were discussing the political

situation, he suddenly asked me: “Et vous croyez que cela durera?” (“And

you think that all this will last?”) Noticing my surprise, he did me the

honour of a lengthy explanation: “You see, my friend, here in this

beautiful France of ours we never look beyond the present day; we enjoy

ourselves without any thought of what the morrow may bring. We have seen

so many changes, so many revolutions, that we have entirely lost the

feeling of stability, without which no nation can achieve really great

things. In politics one must have either stability, faith in the

principles which one is called upon to defend, or else enthusiasm like

that felt by our troops at Marengo. Now can you imagine a spirit of

enthusiasm for our master here?” And he winked in the direction of the

Emperor’s private apartments. “He is good, and kind, and weak, but

though the nation and the army shout ‘Vive l’Empereur’ when they see

him, it is very doubtful whether they would sacrifice anything beyond

the interests of their neighbours for him. And the Empress, she is as

much to be pitied as she is to be envied. I am sorry to have to say so,

because I am really attached to her, but what can one do! She does not

realise that she is not by birth the equal of the other Queens of

Europe, and there lies her great mistake. She is so beautiful that one

would have worshipped at once Mademoiselle de Montijo, but the nation

could not bring itself to respect the Comtesse de Téba in the same way

as had she been a Princess born. Now, don’t betray me, please,” he

added, “but I know that you are discreet, and, besides, who minds the

sayings of that old grumbler Mérimée!”

This _boutade_ left a deep impression on my mind at the time I heard it;

it resounded like the “Mene, Tekel, Upharsin” of the Empire, uttered as

it was by a man who was well known to have personally a great and

sincere devotion for the fair Spaniard whom he had helped to place on

the throne of France. Poor Mérimée was not destined to survive the fall

of that Imperial regime of which he had been one of the strongest

supporters. He died broken-hearted a few days after the disaster of

Sedan, writing pathetically to one of his friends just before his end:

“I have tried all my life to fight against prejudices, and to be a

citizen of the world before being a Frenchman. But all these cloaks of

philosophy are now of no avail to me. I bleed to-day of the same wounds

as these idiots of Frenchmen, and I weep over their humiliation.”

Octave Feuillet was a great favourite of the Empress. He was a charming

man, but always ill and always preoccupied with nursing his health, and

his _malade imaginaire_. His novels were undoubtedly pretty, and created

a great sensation at the time. He was the fashionable novelist of his

generation, and certainly some of his works deserve to pass to

posterity because of their fine observation. He was middle-class to the

core, and this made him worship everything that seemed to be above him.

He took himself far too much in earnest, and even carried so far his

appreciation of his own merit that he wrote once or twice to the

Emperor, proffering unsought his advice in political matters. Napoleon

III. was far too kind to rebuff him, and sometimes even replied to him,

flattering his vanity, as he was accustomed to flatter writers and

journalists, in whom he saw the manufacturers of public opinion, and

whom he liked to conciliate as far as possible. Octave Feuillet

professed a great admiration for the Empress, and he must be given his

due--he remained faithful to her after her fall. He was one of the few

who went to Chislehurst to present their respects to the exiled and

dethroned Sovereigns.

In violent contrast to his behaviour can be instanced that of the

architect Viollet-le-Duc, who, after having been loaded with money and

kindnesses by the Emperor and his Consort, turned his back upon them

after the fall of the Empire, and even tried to make excuses for ever

having known them. Unfortunately, he was but one of many, and bitter

must have been the thoughts of Napoleon III. and Eugénie when they saw

that all the good they had done, the boundless generosity they had

exercised, had only made them a few more enemies among the ranks of

those who owed them so much.

Carpeaux, in spite of his rudeness, was very much appreciated at

Compiègne, and I often saw him there, as indeed I met also most of the

illustrious Frenchmen the Empire could boast of at that time. These

celebrities, and the number of pretty women who were also invited, made

the gatherings unique. The members of the fair sex who were nearly

always present were the Princess Metternich, the pretty Comtesse Mélanie

de Pourtalès, the Marquise de Galiffet, then separated from her

husband, who had already struck up that strange friendship with the

Princesse de Sagan, née Seillères, which gave rise to so much talk later

on. Mme. de Galiffet was one of the loveliest women of the Imperial

Court, and certainly the one who knew the best how to dress. She was an

_élégante_ before everything else, and I believe cared even more for her

dresses than for her lovers. Her relations with General Galiffet were

most strange. They used to meet sometimes in society, and he was always

most polite towards her; it was even said that the warmest admirer the

Marquise de Galiffet had ever had was her husband. This did not prevent

them never agreeing upon any subject save one, and that, it was

rumoured, reunited them sometimes, not under the same roof, but under

the same tent, as the Marquise de Caux once said with more wit than

kindness.

Another habitué of Compiègne was the Baronne de Poilly. She was a daring

horsewoman, an eccentric character, full of brusquerie and kindness, but

not liked, and very much talked about. She was, with the Comtesse de

Beaulaincourt, ex-Marquise de Contades, one of the most dreaded persons

in the whole of Paris society.

Speaking of Madame de Beaulaincourt reminds me of various episodes in

that lady’s career, which set me wondering how the strict Faubourg St.

Germain, as well as the frivolous society of the Second Empire, could

have taken her to their hearts in the way they did. She was bad for

badness’ sake, as unsparing in her words as in her judgments; always on

the look out for something evil to do, or something unpleasant to say.

Full of wit with it all, this last circumstance only made her the more

dangerous. She was a rare example of a vicious woman who had no

charitable instincts; it seemed as if she condemned others the more

bitterly because she knew that there was needing much pardon in herself.

Nevertheless, Madame de Beaulaincourt was one of the most remarkable

personalities at the Court of the Emperor Napoleon III., and as such she

deserves to be remembered.

The members of the Cabinet and their wives were generally asked to

Compiègne in turn. At Fontainebleau, where the Court used to spend the

summer months, this was rarely the case. St. Cloud was too near Paris to

be really pleasant as a summer residence. Fontainebleau was quite in the

country, and its lovely forest afforded many opportunities for riding,

driving, or hunting, which appealed to Eugénie’s tastes. There she used

to live a family life free from the restraints of the Court, with the

guests whom she asked to share her _villégiature_. At Fontainebleau,

too, the Emperor, always a great stickler for etiquette, allowed it to

be relaxed, considering his stay there as a kind of holiday. He was more

often in the company of his guests than at Compiègne, and his presence

was very much appreciated. When he liked, Napoleon III. could be a

charming man and an interesting talker, but it was not often that he

allowed himself to become expansive.

Life at Fontainebleau as well as at Compiègne was almost uniform in its

round of gaieties. The company assembled for breakfast at noon, after

which the guests followed their own inclinations during the afternoon. A

few privileged ones, however, were asked to drive or walk with the

Empress, and afterwards to have tea with her. All guests enjoyed perfect

liberty, but this did not prevent them from watching their neighbours to

find out their little weaknesses, for gossip was rife both at Compiègne

and at Fontainebleau, and many unpleasant rumours concerning the Emperor

and the Empress were started there. The manners and customs that

prevailed among the recipients of the Imperial hospitality were publicly

criticised, the feeling being that it would certainly have been better

had more discrimination been exercised. There was little dignity though

much ceremony during these “series,” as they used to be called, and the

extreme liberty granted was the source of all kinds of unmerited rumours

concerning what happened in those vast halls. Somehow it savoured of

desecration to see the gay company of careless men and fashionable women

who thronged Fontainebleau without giving a thought to the great events

which its walls had witnessed.

One evening at Fontainebleau, after the rest of the world had retired, I

was returning late to my bedroom from an enjoyable stroll in the lovely

park. There was a beautiful moon, and it lit up the old castle of

François I., with its many turrets, its old gables, its whole aspect

speaking of the grandeur of many ages. I thought myself the only one to

indulge in such an eccentricity, when suddenly I came face to face with

the Chevalier Nigra, then one of the great admirers of the Empress, and

a general favourite both at Court and in Society. Chevalier Nigra had

been the private secretary of Count de Cavour, and was considered one of

the stars of Italian diplomacy. He professed the greatest devotion for

Eugénie, knew exactly how to flatter her and thus to glean information

as to what was going on in the French Cabinet. More clever than lovely

Madame de Castiglione, who thought that one of her glances was

sufficient to keep the Emperor enchained to her chariot, Nigra did not

attempt to play the lover, but rather the worshipper of the Empress,

whom he used to tell he had set upon a shrine whence he hoped she would

condescend from time to time to smile upon him. He had all the subtlety

of the Italian, and had read, and, what is better, thoroughly digested

and understood, the philosophy expressed by Machiavelli in his works. He

was an ardent patriot, and when he accepted the appointment to Paris it

was with the firm intention of using his best endeavours to bring about

the completion and recognition of Italian unity.

Nigra was an extremely pleasant man, with a sufficient tincture of

cynicism to make him amiable without being aggressive. He rarely spoke

the truth, and never said what he thought; but he had the talent of

convincing people of his entire sincerity. A keen observer, he had

judged better than any of his colleagues the frailty of the Imperial

regime, and was only watching for the moment when the house of cards

should collapse. On the evening I am referring to he was smoking a big

cigar and walking slowly in the flower-garden which stretched in front

of the private apartments of the palace, enjoying the scent of the

roses, and from time to time raising his eyes towards the only row of

windows still showing a light amidst the darkness that enveloped the

venerable pile.

When he saw me, he pointed upwards with his finger to these windows,

saying at the same time:

“She is not sleeping; she is always the last one to go to rest.”

“I wonder what she is doing so late,” I replied.

“Thinking about her dresses, or the last sermon she has listened to,”

was the remark of Nigra. “How little the Empress understands her

situation.”

“She gathers her roses whilst she can,” was my reply.

“Yes,” retorted the Italian diplomatist, “and perhaps she does the best

thing under the circumstances; all this cannot last.”

“You do not believe in the durability of the Empire?” I asked him.

“No,” was the reply. “I do not believe in it at all. The Italian

question will overthrow it sooner than one thinks.”

“You do not admit the possibility of a war between Italy and France on

the subject of the integrity of the Holy See?” I inquired.

“Certainly I don’t,” said Nigra, “but I know one thing; the Emperor has

no likelihood of keeping his crown, or of passing it to his son, unless

he makes up his mind to fulfil the promises which he gave, perhaps in an

unguarded moment, and without thinking of the consequences, but which he

gave all the same. This hesitation of his has not only entirely

destroyed his popularity in Italy, but it has also thrown Italian

politicians into the arms of his foes. You see, we cannot prevent the

natural course of events taking place; the supremacy of the Pope has had

its day, and the Bourbons also have achieved their destiny. Italy, if

she is to be regenerated, can only be so under the sway of an Italian

dynasty. The Bourbons are not Italians; they are French, with a large

admixture of Austrian blood, and their temperament is distinctly hostile

to that of the Italian people. The House of Savoy, on the other hand,

has everything that appeals to the mind and to the imagination of my

country; it will welcome Victor Emmanuel with joy wherever he may

appear. You must not forget, either, a thing of which people generally

lose sight: Italians are superstitious; they are not at all religious,

and they more or less look upon the Pope in the same light as they do

the small princes and dukes who have ruled them for so long. Temporal

Power has far more prestige abroad than is the case with us, and

Italians will only feel wrathful against those who may try to force it

upon them. The people of Italy instinctively guess that the Emperor is

afraid to go against the popular feeling in France, and that he will at

a given moment refuse to help their ambitions if he finds that they

clash with his own personal interests. That is where he makes his

mistake,” continued Nigra, who had become excited, a rare thing with

him; “that is where he makes his mistake. If he upheld our national

ambitions he would find us at his side when his hour of peril will

strike, whereas now we shall merely look on and do what he did in

1859--seek our own advantage, heedless of the danger in which he may

find himself placed.”

I looked at him attentively.

“So you believe that this hour of danger is fast approaching?” I asked.

“Of course it is,” was the reply; “its warning rang long ago, after

Sadowa, and when the bullets of Juarez struck the breast of Maximilian

at Queretaro. It is only blind people, blinded by vanity, like those who

are in power here, who do not see the menace that the armaments of

Prussia constitute for the whole of Europe.”

“You do not believe in the readiness of the French army in case of a

war?” I asked.

“Do you?” retorted Nigra.

I remained silent.

“No, I do not believe in it,” he went on slowly, “the army is not

capable of strong resistance to a well disciplined foe. How can an army

be so in a country where politics are paramount? You see there is no

real patriotism in France, there is only chauvinism, and that is not

quite the same thing. The Frenchman will not admit that he can be

conquered by anyone. Why, we have seen it at Solferino, where our troops

fought desperately, and were not even thanked by the Emperor, whose

soldiers could never have held out alone against the shock of the

Austrian regiments. When we came up and decided the fate of the battle

they were already giving way. You must not forget one thing, the French

soldier gets discouraged at his first reverse, and most certainly the

fate of the next campaign will be decided in its very first days.

“The Emperor also is no longer what he once was,” went on Nigra; “he is

ill, broken down, either by disease or by worry, he has lost very much

of his former elasticity, and is more than ever undecided in the

resolutions he is called upon to make. The Empress, on the other hand,

believes herself to possess political ability, and is encouraged therein

by people who see a source of advantage for them in a Regency over which

she would be called upon to preside. The death of the Emperor, which ten

years ago would have been regarded in the light of a calamity, not only

for France but for Europe, is no longer dreaded, because the feeling is

that he has survived himself, that his lucky star has left him. The

convinced Bonapartists think that a Liberal Empire is an anachronism;

but the Emperor, who was always more or less a conspirator, dreams, on

the contrary, of establishing his dynasty on new lines, in which his

strong sympathies towards Liberalism will take the upper hand. When once

his entourage realise this fact, which so far they do not yet suspect,

they will do their best to bring matters to a crisis, and by means of a

foreign war divert Napoleon’s mind from his present intentions. And that

war----”

He stopped and looked at me significantly.

“That war won’t find Italy the ally of France,” I remarked.

“Certainly not, because there would be no necessity for it. Why should

we lose either men or money when nothing could be gained by it? What we

want is Rome, and Rome we shall get all the same, whether Napoleon

allows it or not. One cannot stop the evolution of history.”

“But she--what will she do?” I asked, pointing up to the windows we had

been looking at a few moments before, when, as if in reply to my

question, the light suddenly went out.

Nigra shrugged his shoulders, as if this matter did not concern him at

all.

“She will never resign herself to her fall, should such a thing occur,”

I remarked.

“Oh yes, she will do so,” was the answer. “She will not even attempt to

fight against her fate should it prove inimical to her,” he concluded

philosophically.

It was during the last time the Imperial Court was at Fontainebleau that

this remarkable conversation took place, and it impressed me so much

that I noted it down at once when I reached my room. I was to think

about it more than once subsequently, and many years later, meeting

Count Nigra, as he had become then, in St. Petersburg, where he had been

appointed Italian Ambassador, I reminded him of it, and asked him to

tell me what had really been the conduct of the Empress Eugénie on that

fateful 4th of September when he and Prince Metternich urged her to fly

before the revolutionaries.

“She did exactly what I told you that night at Fontainebleau,” replied

Nigra; “she declared that she would not go against the wishes of the

country, and that, since it wanted her to leave Paris, she would do so.

Mind, she knew nothing as to whether this was true or not; no one had

told her that the country wanted her to go, one had simply drawn her

attention to the fact that her life was in danger, and she believed it

at once. Metternich at one moment asked her whether she would not take a

few things with her, but she replied that it was not necessary, and she

left the Tuileries without even taking a pocket handkerchief.”

France from Behind the Veil: Fifty Years of Social and Political Life · 第 3 / 33 章