THE COOK.

379. _for the nones_ = _for the nonce_; this expression, if grammatically

written, would be _for then once_, M. E. _for þan anes_, for the once,

i. e. for the occasion; where the adv. _anes_ (orig. a gen. form) is used

as if it were a sb. in the dat. case. Cf. M. E. _atte_ = _atten_, A. S. _æt

þ[=a]m_.

381. _poudre-marchaunt tart_ is a sharp (tart) kind of flavouring powder,

twice mentioned in Household Ordinances and Receipts (Soc. Antiq. 1790) at

pp. 425, 434: 'Do therto _pouder marchant_,' and 'do thi flessh therto, and

gode herbes and _poudre marchaunt_, and let hit well stew.'--Notes and

Queries, Fourth Series, iii. 180. See _Powder_ in the Glossary to the

Babees Book.

'_Galingale_, which Chaucer, pre-eminentest, economioniseth above all

junquetries or confectionaries whatsoever.'--Nash's Lenten Stuff, p. 36,

ed. Hindley. _Galingale_ is the root of sweet cyperus. Harman (ed.

Strother) notices three varieties: _Cyperus rotundus_, _Galanga major_,

_Galanga minor_; Babees Book, ed. Furnivall, pp. 152, 216. See also Marco

Polo, ed. Yule, ii. 181; Prompt. Parv., p. 185, note 4; Rogers, Hist. of

Agriculture and Prices, i. 629; &c. And see Dr. H. Fletcher Hance's and Mr.

Daniel Hanbury's Papers on this spice in the Linnæan Society's Journal,

1871.

382. _London ale._ London ale was famous as early as the time of Henry

III., and much higher priced than any other ale; cf. A. 3140.

_Wel coude he knowe_, he well knew how to distinguish. In fact, we find, in

the Manciple's Prologue (H. 57), that the Cook loved good ale only too

well.

384. _mortreux_ or _mortrewes_. There were two kinds of 'mortrews,'

'mortrewes de chare' and 'mortrewes of fysshe.' The first was a kind of

soup in which chickens, fresh pork, crumbs of bread, yolks of eggs, and

saffron formed the chief ingredients; the second kind was a soup containing

the roe (or milt) and liver of fish, bread, pepper, ale. The ingredients

were first stamped or brayed in a _mortar_, whence it probably derived its

name. Lord Bacon (Nat. Hist. i. 48) speaks of 'a _mortresse_ made with the

brawne of capons stamped and strained.' See Babees Book, pp. 151, 170, 172;

Liber Cure Cocorum, ed. Morris, pp. 9, 19; and the note to P. Plowman, C.

xvi. 47. This line, like ll. 371 and 391, is deficient in the first foot.

386. _mormal_, a cancer or gangrene. Ben Jonson, in imitation of [38] this

passage, has described a cook with an 'old _mortmal_ on his shin'; Sad

Shepherd, act ii. sc. 2. Lydgate speaks of 'Goutes, _mormalles_, horrible

to the sight'; Falls of Princes, bk. vii. c. 10. In Polit. Religious and

Love Poems, ed. Furnivall, p. 218, we are told that the sin of Luxury 'ys a

lyther _mormale_.' In Skelton's Magnificence, l. 1932, Adversity is made to

say--'Some with the _marmoll_ to halte I them make'; and it is remarkable

that Palsgrave gives both--'_Mormall_, a sore,' and '_Marmoll_, a sore';

the latter being plainly a corrupt form. See also Prompt. Parvulorum, p.

343, note 5. In MS. Oo. i. 20, last leaf, in the Camb. Univ. Library, are

notices of remedies 'Por la maladie que est apele _malum mortuum_.' The MS.

says that it comes from melancholy, and shows a broad hard scurf or crust.

387. _blank-manger_, a compound made of capon minced, with rice, milk,

sugar, and almonds; see Liber Cure Cocorum, ed. Morris, p. 9. Named from

its white colour.

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