CHAPTER XII.

THE RETURN TO MUONIOVARA.

Advantages of Lapp Costume--Turning Southward--Departure from

Kautokeino--A Lapp Hut--Religion--The Reindeer--Their Qualities

--Treatment by the Lapps--Annoyances of Reindeer Travel--Endurance

of Northern Girls--The Table-Land--The "Roof of the World"--Journey

to Lippajärvi--Descent to the Muonio--Female Curiosity--The Return

to Muoniovara--Prosaic Life of the Lapps--Modern Prudery. 141

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