NOOKS AND CORNERS
OF
LANCASHIRE AND CHESHIRE.
Of this work 600 copies have been printed, the whole of which were
subscribed for before publication.
NOOKS AND CORNERS
OF
Lancashire and Cheshire.
A WAYFARER’S NOTES IN THE PALATINE COUNTIES,
HISTORICAL, LEGENDARY, GENEALOGICAL,
AND DESCRIPTIVE.
BY
JAMES CROSTON, F.S.A.
_Fellow of the Royal Historical Society of Great Britain;
Member of the Architectural,
Archæological and Historic Society of Chester; Member of the
Council of the Record Society._
Author of “On Foot through the Peak,” “A History of Samlesbury,”
“Historical Memorials of the Church in Prestbury,”
“Old Manchester and its Worthies,”
etc., etc.
JOHN HEYWOOD,
DEANSGATE AND RIDGEFIELD, MANCHESTER;
AND 11, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS,
LONDON.
1882.
JOHN HEYWOOD, PRINTER, HULME HALL ROAD,
MANCHESTER.
[Illustration]
PREFACE.
This volume is not put forth as professedly a history of the places
described, the Author’s aim having been rather to seize upon and
group from such accredited sources of information as were available,
the leading facts and incidents relating to special localities, and
to present the scenes of human life and action in a readable and
attractive form by divesting, in some degree, the tame and uninviting
facts of archæology of their deadly dulness; to bring into prominent
relief the remarkable occurrences and romantic incidents of former
days, and, by combining with the graver and more substantial matters
of history an animated description of the physical features and scenic
attractions of the localities in which those incidents occurred, to
render them more interesting to the general reader.
A popular writer—the Authoress of “Our Village”—has said that she
cared less for any reputation she might have gained as a writer of
romance, than she did for the credit to be derived from the less
ambitious but more useful office of faithfully uniting and preserving
those fragments of tradition, experience, and biography, which give to
history its living interest. In the same spirit the following pages
have been written. There are within the Palatine Counties of Lancaster
and Chester many objects and places, many halls and manor-houses that
possess an abiding interest from the position they occupy in “our
rough island story,” and from their being associated, if not with
events of the highest historic import, yet at least with many of
those subordinate scenes and occurrences—those romantic incidents
and half-forgotten facts that illustrate the inner life and character
of bygone generations. These lingering memorials of a period the
most chivalrous and the most romantic in our country’s annals may
occasionally have received the notice of the precise topographer and
the matter-of-fact antiquary, but, though possessing in themselves
much that is picturesque and attractive, they have rarely been placed
before the reader in any other guise than that in which the soberest
narrative could invest them. In them the romance of centuries seems to
be epitomised, and to the “seeing eye” they are the types and emblems
of the changing life of our great nation; legend and tradition gather
round, and weird stories and scraps of family history are associated
with them that bring vividly before the mind’s eye the domestic life
and manners of those who have gone before, and show in how large a
degree the Past may be made a guide for the Present and the Future.
It only remains for the Author to acknowledge his obligations to those
friends who, by information communicated, and in other ways, have aided
him in his design. His thanks are due to JOHN EGLINGTON BAILEY, Esq.,
F.S.A., of Stretford; JOHN OLDFIELD CHADWICK, Esq., F.S.S., F.G.S., of
London; Dr. SAMUEL CROMPTON, of Cranleigh, Surrey; Lieutenant-Colonel
FISHWICK, F.S.A., of Rochdale; and THOMAS HELSBY, Esq., of the Inner
Temple. He is also indebted to the kindness of GILBERT J. FRENCH, Esq.,
of Bolton, for the loan of the several engravings which add interest to
the story of Samuel Crompton.
UPTON HALL, PRESTBURY, CHESHIRE,
DECEMBER, 1881.
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. PAGE
A Railway Ramble—The Roman City on the Ribble—A
Day Dream at Ribchester 1
CHAPTER II.
Marple Hall—The Bradshaws—Colonel Henry Bradshaw—The
Story of the Regicide 21
CHAPTER III.
Over Sands by the Cartmel Shore—Wraysholme Tower—The
Legend of the Last Wolf 76
CHAPTER IV.
An Afternoon at Gawsworth—The Fighting Fittons—The
Cheshire Will Case and its Tragic Sequel—Henry
Newcome—“Lord Flame” 102
CHAPTER V.
The College and the “Wizard Warden” of Manchester 157
CHAPTER VI.
Beeston Castle 213
CHAPTER VII.
Whalley and its Abbey—Mitton Church and its Monuments—The
Sherburnes—The Jesuits’ College, Stonyhurst 242
CHAPTER VIII.
Adlington and its Earlier Lords—The Leghs—The Legend of
the Spanish Lady’s Love—The Hall 283
CHAPTER IX.
The Byroms—Kersall Cell—John Byrom—The Laureate of
the Jacobites—The Fatal ’45 361
CHAPTER X.
Hall-i’-th’-Wood—The Story of Samuel Crompton, the Inventor
of the Spinning Mule 408
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
PROSPECT TOWER, TURTON 3
RIBCHESTER BRIDGE 7
MARPLE HALL 20
AUTOGRAPH AND SEAL OF COLONEL BRADSHAW 34
PRESIDENT BRADSHAW 47
AUTOGRAPH OF JOHN BRADSHAW 49
GEORGE FOX’S CHAPEL, SWARTHMOOR 77
GRANGE-OVER-SANDS 79
WRAYSHOLME TOWER 89
HERALDIC GLASS AT WRAYSHOLME 91
GAWSWORTH OLD HALL 105
GAWSWORTH CROSS 109
THE REV. HENRY NEWCOME 143
“LORD FLAME’S” TOMB, GAWSWORTH 153
JOHN DEE, THE “WIZARD WARDEN” 156
THE MANCHESTER COLLEGE 196
MORTLAKE CHURCH 207
BEESTON CASTLE 212
THE PHŒNIX TOWER, CHESTER 240
ABBOT PASLEW’S GRAVE STONE, WHALLEY CHURCH 246
ANCIENT CROSS, MITTON CHURCHYARD 263
THE HODDER BRIDGE 265
STONYHURST 269
ADLINGTON HALL 282
AUTOGRAPH OF SIR URIAN LEGH 326
SIR ALEXANDER RIGBY 333
AUTOGRAPH OF THOMAS LEGH 338
KERSALL CELL 360
JOHN BYROM’S HOUSE, MANCHESTER 381
HALL-I’-TH’-WOOD 409
HALL-I’-TH’-WOOD: SOUTH FRONT 412
STAIRCASE, HALL-I’-TH’-WOOD 415
HERALDIC SHIELD, HALL-I’-TH’-WOOD 417
OLDHAMS 429
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
SUBSCRIBERS.
ADSHEAD, G. H., Esq., Fern Villas, Bolton Road, Pendleton, nr. M’chester.
ANDREW, FRANK, Esq., Ashton-under-Lyne.
ARDERN, L., Jun., Esq., Hazel Grove, Cheshire.
ARMITAGE, ELKANAH, Esq., The Rookery, Pendleton, Manchester.
ARMSTRONG, THOMAS, Esq., F.R.M.S., Highfield Bank, Urmston.
ARNOLD, HENRY, Esq., Blackley, near Manchester.
ASHTON, J. T., Esq., Wellington Road South, Stockport.
ASHWORTH, CHARLES E., Esq., Fairfield, Manchester.
ASHWORTH, GEORGE, Esq., 3. Charlotte Street, Manchester.
ASCROFT, W. T., Esq., 3, Stamford Street, Altrincham.
ASPLAND, L. M., Esq., 47, Linden Gardens, South Kensington, London, S. W.
ASQUITH, D., Esq., Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway Offices, Manchester.
ATKINSON, GEORGE, Esq., Stockport.
ATHERTON, W. H., Esq., Southbank Road, Southport.
ATHENÆUM, The, Manchester.
ATTOCK, F., Esq., Somerset House, Newton Heath.
BAILEY, J. EGLINTON, F.S.A., Egerton Villa, Stretford.
BARLOW, J. R., Esq., Edgeworth, near Bolton.
BARNES, ALFRED, Esq., Farnworth.
BARNES, THOMAS, Esq., Farnworth.
BARTON, RICHARD, Esq., West Leigh Lodge, West Leigh, Lancashire.
BAYLEY, WILLIAM, Esq., Craybrow, Lymm, Warrington.
BAZLEY, Sir THOS., Bart., Eyford Park, Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire.
BEAMAN, Mrs., Haydock Lodge, Ashton-in-Makerfield, Lancashire.
BEALES, ROBERT, Esq., M.D., J.P. (Mayor), Congleton.
BELLIS, THOMAS, Esq., Northenden, near Manchester.
BERRY, JAMES, Esq., Jun., Palatine Square, Burnley.
BESWICK, JOHN, Esq., Victoria Hotel, Strangeways, Manchester (2 copies).
BIBBY, W. H., Esq., Levenshulme.
BIRCH, HERBERT, Esq., The Vicarage, Blackburn.
BIRLEY, HUGH, Esq., M.P., Moorland, Withington.
BIRLEY, J. SHEPHERD, Esq., Moss Lee, Bolton-le-Moors.
BLEASDELL, The Rev. J., Henry Square, Ashton-under-Lyne.
BODDINGTON, HENRY, Jun., Esq., Strangeways Brewery, Manchester.
BOLGER, Miss SARAH, Atherton, Bournemouth, Hants.
BOLTON, JOHN, Esq., Southfield, Blackburn.
BONE, JOHN W., Esq., F.S.A., 26, Bedford Place, Russell Square, London.
BOOTH, AARON, Jun., Esq., 4, South Street, Albert Square, Manchester.
BOOTH, JAMES, Esq., 52, Todmorden Road, Burnley.
BOOTE, DANIEL, Esq., Oakfield, Ashton-on-Mersey.
BOURNE, Sir JAMES, Heathfield, Liverpool.
BOWDLER, WILLIAM HENRY, Esq., J.P., Kirkham, Lancashire.
BOWES, Dr. JOHN, The Blue Coat School, Warrington.
BOWKER, S. J., Esq., 42, Great Ancoats Street, Manchester.
BOULTON, ISAAC WATT, Esq., J.P., Stamford House, Ashton-under-Lyne
(2 copies).
BRADSHAW, CHRISTOPHER, Esq., Kenwood, Ellesmere Park, Eccles.
BRADSHAWE, GEORGE PARIS, Esq., 30, Gloucester Street, Warwick Square,
London.
BRADSHAWE-ISHERWOOD, Mrs., Marple Hall, Stockport.
BRADSHAW, S., Esq., 241, Broad Street, Pendleton.
BRADWELL, DENNIS, Esq., J.P., Higher Daisy Bank, Congleton.
BRAMWELL, ROBERT, Esq., 5, Green Street, Ardwick Green.
BRAGG, HARRY, Esq., The Mount, Blackburn.
BRANSBY, WILLIAM, Esq., 46, Deansgate, Manchester.
BROWN, Rev. Canon, M.A., Staley Vicarage, Stalybridge.
BROWNHILL, JOHN, Esq., Alderley, Cheshire.
BRIDGEMAN, Rev. The Honble. G. T. O., Wigan Hall, Wigan.
BROADBENT, GEO. HARRY, Esq., L.K.Q.C.P.I. and L.M., Ashton-under-Lyne.
BROADBENT, EDWIN, Esq., Reddish, near Stockport.
BROCKBANK, W., Esq., Pall Mall, Manchester.
BUCKLEY, Mr., Strangeways Brewery.
BUDD, Mrs. M., Cedar Villa, Wilbraham Road, Fallowfield, Manchester.
BULTEEL, S. W., Esq., Victoria Park, Manchester.
BURGESS, SAMUEL, Esq., Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway Offices,
Manchester.
BURTON, ALFRED, Esq., 37, Cross Street, Manchester.
BURGHOPE, WILLIAM, Esq., Albert Villa, near Malvern.
BURTON, JOSEPH, Esq., Lyme View, Bramhall, Cheshire.
BURTON, J. H., Esq., F.R.H.S., 5, Trafalgar Square, Ashton-under-Lyne.
BURTON, Mrs. LINGEN, Abbey House, Shrewsbury.
BUSTARD, J., Esq., Summer Lane, Barnsley.
CALDERBANK, Captain, Stockport.
CAMERON, JOHN D., Esq., The Grove, Sale, Cheshire.
CARRINGTON, H. H., SMITH, Esq., Whaley Bridge, near Stockport
CARVER, Mrs. J., Sunnyside, Whalley Range, Manchester.
CARR, JOHN, Esq., 2, McDonald’s Lane, Manchester.
CASSON, E., Esq., Raper Lodge. Bramhall Park, Cheshire.
CHADWICK, T., Esq., The Grove, Urmston, near Manchester.
CHETHAM’S LIBRARY, Manchester.
CHORLTON, THOMAS, Esq., 32, Brasenose Street, Manchester.
CHORLTON, WILLIAM, Esq., Fairfield, near Manchester.
CHORLTON, THOMAS, Esq., 32, Brazenose Street, Manchester.
CHRISTY, RICHARD, Esq., Poynton Towers, Cheshire.
CLARE, CHARLES LEIGH, Esq., Park Lane, Higher Broughton, Manchester.
COATES, The Misses, Sunnyside, Crawshawbooth, Lancashire.
COLLINS, JAMES, Esq., Ada Villa, Old Trafford, Manchester.
COOMBES, The Rev. G. F., B.A., Portwood, Stockport.
COOPER, EDWARD, Esq., 10, Downing Street, Manchester.
COOPER, THOMAS, Esq., Mossley House, Congleton.
COULTATE, WILLIAM MILLER, Esq., F.R.C.S., J.P., 1, Yorke Street, Burnley.
COWIE, Very Rev. B. MORGAN, D.D., Dean of Manchester, The Deanery,
Manchester.
CRAIG, ANDREW L., Esq., 148, Cheapside, London.
CRAVEN, JAMES, Esq., Woodland House, Whalley Range, Manchester.
CREEKE, Major A. B., Monkholm, near Burnley.
CRONKESHAW, JOHN, Esq., White Bull Hotel, Blackburn.
CROSS, JOHN, Esq., Cambridge Villa, Heaton Norris.
CROSS, The Right Hon. Sir R. A., M.P., Eccle Riggs, Broughton-in-Furness.
CROMPTON, SAMUEL, Esq., M.D., Cranleigh, Surrey.
CUNLIFF, JOHN, Esq., Lomber Hey, near Stockport.
CURZON, N. C., Esq., Lockington Hall, Derby.
CUFF, JAMES HENRY, Esq., Millington, near Altrincham.
CUNLIFFE, EDWARD THOMAS, Esq., Handforth.
DALE, THOMAS, Esq., J.P., Bank House, Park Road, Southport.
DAVENPORT, E. H., Esq., Davenport, Bridgnorth, Shropshire.
DAY, Mr. T. J., Heaton Moor, Stockport.
DEVONSHIRE, His Grace the Duke of, Chatsworth, Chesterfield.
DILLON, Rev. GODFREY, Radcliffe (2 copies).
DOBSON, MATTHEW, Esq., Cheadle.
DORRINGTON, JAMES T., Esq., Bonishall, near Macclesfield.
DOWNING, WILLIAM, Esq., Springfield Olton, Acock Green, Birmingham.
DYER, A. C., Esq., National Provincial Bank of England, Manchester.
EARWAKER, J. P., Esq., M.A., F.S.A., Pensarn, Abergele.
EASTWOOD, J. A., Esq., 49, Princess Street, Manchester.
EATON, C., Esq., 3, St. Edward Street, Leek.
ECKERSLEY, C., Esq., Tyldesley, Lancashire.
EDGAR, ROBERT A., Esq., Seymour Lodge, Heaton Chapel.
EDGE, J. BROUGHTON, Esq., Broad Oak Park, Worsley.
EILBECK, H., Esq., Ashton-upon-Mersey, Cheshire.
ELLISON, JOHN, Esq., Stockport Road, Ashton-under-Lyne.
ELWEN, GEORGE, Esq., 11, Knott Street, Higher Broughton, Manchester.
ENION, J. C., Esq., Piccadilly, Manchester.
EQUITABLE CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, Greenacres Hill, Oldham.
EVANS, Miss LYDIA, The Heys, near St. Helens, Lancashire.
EVANS, JOHN, Esq., 1, Mitton Street, Greenheys.
EYRE, The Rev. W. H., Stonyhurst College, near Blackburn (_5 copies_).
FAIRBROTHER, HENRY, Esq., 106, Albert Square, Manchester.
FEATHER, The Rev. GEORGE, The Vicarage, Glazebury, Leigh, Lancashire.
FIELDEN, JOHN, Esq., Dobroyd Castle, Todmorden (_2 copies_).
FLETCHER, J. SHEPHERD, Esq., M.D., 75, Lever Street, Manchester.
FLETCHER, THOMAS, Esq., Lever House, near Bolton-le-Moors.
FOLLY, THOMAS, Esq., Warrington.
FOYSTER, J. ASHER, Esq., 5, Norfolk Street, Manchester.
FRANKLAND, GEO., Esq., _Express_ Office, Burnley.
FRESTON, T. W., Esq., 8, Watling Street, Manchester.
FRY, JOSEPH, Esq., Manchester.
GAMBLE, Colonel, Windlehurst, St. Helens.
GARTSIDE, R. A., Esq., Dacres, Greenfield, near Manchester.
GASKELL, A. E., Esq., 255, Moss Lane, East, Manchester.
GASKELL, JOSIAH, Esq., Burgrave Lodge, Ashton-in-Makerfield.
GEE, CHARLES, Esq., Gorton, Manchester.
GERARD, Major, Aspull House, Wigan.
GIBBONS, BENJAMIN, Esq., London Road, Manchester.
GILL, RICHARD, Esq., 7, Pall Mall, Manchester.
GILBODY, A. H., Esq., Edge Lane, Chorlton-on-Medlock.
GOODMAN, DAVENPORT, Esq., Eccles House, Chapel-en-le-Frith.
GRAHAM, JOSEPH, Esq., Carlton Road, Burnley.
GRAHAM, Rev. PHILIP, Turncroft, Darwen.
GRANTHAM, JOHN, Esq., 2, Rothsay Place, Old Trafford, Manchester.
GRAY, ROBERT, Esq., Greenfield House, Hyde.
GRADWELL, SAMUEL, Esq., Holmes Chapel, Cheshire.
GRATRIX, SAMUEL, Esq., J.P., West Point, Whalley Range, Manchester.
GREAVES, GEORGE, Esq., Hayfield.
GREENALL, Sir GILBERT, Bart., Walton Hall, Warrington.
GREENALL, Colonel, Lingholme, Keswick.
GREENALL, Major, The Old Rectory, Grappenhall.
GREENE, Mrs. TURNER, Southworth House, Wigan.
GREENHALGH, JOSEPH DODSON, Esq., Gladstone Cottage, Bolton.
GREENWAY, C., Esq., J.P., Darwen Bank, Darwen.
GREENWOOD, CHARLES, Esq., 26, Aked’s Road, Halifax.
GROVES, G. H., Esq., Kent Villa, Urmston, near Manchester.
GRUNDY, ALFRED, Esq., Whitefield, near Manchester.
GUEST, W. H., Esq., 78, Cross Street, Manchester.
HADFIELD, GEORGE, Esq., 110, King Street, Manchester.
HAGUE, JOHN SCHOLES, Esq., White Hall, Chinley, Derbyshire.
HALL, JOSHUA, Esq., Kingston House, Hyde.
HALL, JOHN, Esq., The Grange, Hale, Cheshire.
HALL, ROBERT, Esq., Anes House, Hyde.
HALSTEAD, LOUIS, Esq., Redwaterfoot, Corneholme.
HAMPSON, WILLIAM, Esq., Rose Hill, Marple, Cheshire.
HAMPSON, J. R., Esq., Old Trafford.
HAMPSON, J. T., Esq., Solicitor, Ashton-under-Lyne.
HARLOW, Miss, Heaton Norris, Stockport
HARTLEY, WILLIAM, Esq., Greek Street, Stockport.
HARTLEY, Mrs., Brierfield House, near Burnley.
HARTLEY, JOB W., Esq., Westgate, Burnley.
HARDWICK, C., Esq., 72, Talbot Street, Moss Side, Manchester.
HARWOOD, Alderman JOHN J., Northumberland Street, Higher Broughton.
HAWORTH, The Rev. J. G., Tunsteads Vicarage, Stacksteads.
HAWORTH, S. E., Esq., Holyrood, restwich.
HAWORTH, RICHARD, Esq., J.P., 28, High Street, Manchester.
HEGINBOTTOM, THOMAS, Esq., J.P., (Mayor), Stamford House,
Ashton-under-Lyne.
HELSBY, THOMAS, Esq., Lincoln’s Inn, London.
HIBBERT, HENRY, Esq., Broughton Grove, Grange-over-Sands.
HICKS, JOHN, Esq., Mytton Hall, Whalley, Lancashire.
HIGGINS, ARTHUR, Esq., King Street, Salford.
HIGGINS, JAMES, Esq., Woodhey, Kersal, Manchester.
HIGSON, THOMAS, Esq., Red Cliffe, Alderley Edge, Cheshire.
HILL, T. D., Esq., Fairfield.
HINDLEY, THOMAS, Esq., Stockport.
HIRST, JOHN, Esq., Ladcastle, Dobcross.
HODGSON, T., Esq., Cravenholme, Didsbury.
HOOLEY, SAMUEL J., Esq., Manchester and Liverpool District Bank Limited,
Tunstall.
HOWE, JAMES, Esq., Bellfield House, Ashton-under-Lyne, near Manchester.
HODGKINSON, JAMES B., Esq., Green Bank, Sale, Cheshire.
HODGKINSON, S., Esq., Marple, Cheshire.
HOLDEN, THOMAS, Esq., Bolton.
HOLMES, JAMES, Esq., Egerton Road, Fallowfield, Manchester.
HORNBY, JAMES, Esq., Wigan.
HYDE, WALTER, Esq., Cromwell House, Heaton Chapel.
INGHAM, B., Esq., York Chambers, Brasenose Street, Manchester.
JACKSON, ALFRED, Esq., Burnley Lane, Burnley.
JACKSON, B., Esq., Heathfield, Ashton-upon-Mersey.
JACKSON, HARTLEY, Esq., Pickup Terrace, Burnley.
JACKSON, H. J., Esq., Ashton-under-Lyne (_2 copies_).
JOHNSON, J. A., Esq., 73, Albert Road, Southport.
JOHNSON, J. H., Esq., F.S.A., 73, Albert Road, Southport.
JONES, JOHN JOSEPH, Esq., Abberley Hall, Stourport.
KAY, JACOB, Esq., 5, Booth Street, Manchester.
KEENE, R. Esq., Irongate, Derby.
KETTLE, A. J., Esq., Addiscombe, Prestwich Park, near Manchester.
KETTLE, W. C., Esq., Addiscombe, Prestwich Park.
KENDERDINE, FREDERICK, Esq., Morningside, Old Trafford.
KNOTT, JAMES, Esq., 55, Higher Ardwick, Manchester.
KNOTT, JOHN, Esq., Dartmouth House, Hurst, Cheshire.
LANCASTER, ALF, Esq., Manchester Road, Burnley.
LAWTON, JAMES KINDER, Esq., Hazel Grove, near Stockport.
LEEDHAM, F. H., Esq., Burnage Lane, near Manchester.
LEECE, JOSEPH, Esq., Mansfield Villa, Urmston, near Manchester..
LEES, EDWARD B., Esq., Kelbarrow, Grasmere.
LEIGH, JAMES, Esq., 66, Deansgate, Manchester.
LEVER, ELLIS, Esq., Culcheth Hall, Bowdon.
LEES, SAMUEL, Esq., Park Bridge, Ashton-under-Lyne.
LEIGH, JOHN, Esq., The Manor House, Hale, Cheshire.
LEIGH, CHARLES, Esq., Bank Terrace, Wigan.
LEYLAND, JOHN, Esq., The Grange, Hindley, near Wigan.
LIBRARIES, FREE PUBLIC, Manchester.
LIBRARY, FREE PUBLIC, Town Hall, Rochdale.
LIBRARY, FREE, Peel Park, Salford.
LIBRARY, FREE, The Stockport.
LIBRARY, FREE, The Wigan.
LIBRARY, FREE, The Heywood, near Manchester.
LIBRARY, FREE, The Bolton-le-Moors.
LINFOOT, JOSEPH, Esq., Cannon Street, Manchester.
LINGARD-MONK, RICHARD, B. M., Esq., Fulshaw Hall, Wilmslow.
LLOYD, THOMAS, Esq., Brooklands House, Brooklands, Cheshire.
LONG, JOHN F., Esq., 135, Great Ancoats Street, Manchester.
LONGDEN. A. W., Esq., Marple, Cheshire.
LONGWORTH, SOLOMON, Esq., Whalley, Lancashire.
LONGSHAW, Mrs., Beech Priory, Southport.
LONGTON, EDWARD JOHN, Esq., M.D., The Priory, Southport.
LORD, HENRY, Esq., 42, John Dalton Street, Manchester.
LUPTON, ARTHUR, Esq., 136, Manchester Road, Burnley.
LUPTON, BENJAMIN, Esq., Cumberland Place, Burnley.
LUPTON, JOSEPH TOWNEND, Esq., 28, Manchester Road, Burnley.
LOWE, J. W., Esq., St James’s Square, Manchester.
MARSDEN, Rev. Canon, Great Oakley, Harwich, Essex.
MARSDEN, The Rev. W., Fullarton House, Upper Brook Street, M’chester.
MARSHALL, E. W., Esq., 38, Barton Arcade, Manchester.
MARSON, GERVASE, Esq., Thorncliffe House, Higher Broughton, Manchester.
MARSON, JAMES, Esq., High Cliffe, Warrington.
MASSEY, JOHN, Esq., J.P., Hawk’s House, near Burnley (_2 copies_).
MAYOR’S LIBRARY, The, Manchester, per Alderman Patteson.
McQUHAE, WILLIAM, Esq., 5, Stamford Street, Brooks’s Bar, Manchester.
McKENNA, BERNARD, Esq., Lea Grange, White Moss, Blackley, nr. M’chester.
McKERROW, Alderman JOHN B., J.P., Norcliffe, Broughton Park.
METCALF, WILLIAM, Esq., 2, Vernon Avenue, Eccles.
MIDDLETON, THOMAS, Esq., Springfield, Adlington, Lancashire.
MIDWOOD, G. H., 55, Faulkner Street, Manchester.
MILLS, WILLIAM, Esq., 12, New Brown Street, Manchester.
MILNER, GEORGE, Esq., 57a, Mosley Street, Manchester.
MITCHELL, WILLIAM, Esq., Brook Villa, Golbourne.
MOORE, D., Esq., Woodville, Bramhall, Cheshire.
MOORHOUSE, CHRISTOPHER, Esq., 4, St Paul’s Road, Kersal, Manchester.
MORTON, WILLIAM, Esq., 12, Brown Street, Manchester.
MOTHERSILL, EDWARD, Esq., Dane House, Sale, Cheshire.
MOULTON, GEORGE, Esq., Hall’s Crescent, Collyhurst.
MUIRHEAD, THOMAS S., Esq., Ash Lodge, Halliwell Lane, Cheetham.
MURRAY, Alderman (the late), Apsley House, Hyde Road, Manchester.
MYERS, HENRY, Esq., 140, Newcastle Street, Stretford Road, Manchester.
NAPIER, GEORGE W., Esq., Merchistoun, Alderley Edge.
NEAL, WILLIAM, Esq., Ashton-under-Lyne.
NEWTON, WALTER, Esq., 69, Bridge Street, Manchester.
NEW, PHILIP N., Esq., 15, Baillie Street, Rochdale.
NORREYS, Miss, Davyhulme Hall, Lancashire.
NORTHCOTT, JAMES B., Esq., King Street, Manchester.
OWEN, WILLIAM, Esq., Palmyra Square, Warrington.
PARK, Rev. R., M.A., 3, The Crescent, Salford.
PARKER, EDWARD, Esq., Browsholme Hall, Yorkshire.
PATTESON, Alderman, J.P., Victoria Park, Manchester.
PEACOCK, RICHARD, Esq., Gorton Hall, near Manchester.
PERKINS, STANHOPE, Esq., 6, Healey Terrace, Fairfield, near Manchester.
PHILLIPS, JOHN WILLIAM, Esq., Brown Hill, Burnley.
PHILLIPS, Miss, Welcombe, Stratford-on-Avon.
PICCLES, THOMAS L., Esq., Rock Cottage, New Mills, Derbyshire.
PILKINGTON, JAMES, Esq., Swinithwaite Hall, Bedale, Yorkshire.
PINK, WM. DUNCOMBE, Esq., Leigh.
POOLEY, C. J., Esq., Knutsford.
POLLITT, JAMES, Esq., Guide House, Ashton-under-Lyne.
POOLEY, W. ORMSBY, Esq., J.P., Knutsford.
PORTICO LIBRARY, The, Mosley Street, Manchester.
POTTER, RUPERT, Esq., 2, Bolton Gardens, South Kensington, London, S.W.
POTTS, ARTHUR, Esq., Hoole Hall, Chester.
PRESTON, THOMAS, Esq., 92, Manchester Road, Burnley.
RABY, WILLIAM, Esq., 78, Cross Street, Manchester.
RALPHS, SAMUEL, Esq., 56, Sandy Lane, Stockport.
RAMSBOTTOM, G. H., Esq., Altham Hall, near Accrington.
RAMSBOTHAM, JOHN, Esq., 22, Arbour Street, Southport (2 copies).
RAWSTHORNE, H., Esq., East Street, Preston.
REDHEAD, R. MILNE, Esq., Springfield, Seedley, Manchester (2 copies).
RICHMOND, T. G., Esq., Ford House, Prestbury.
RICHMOND, FRED, Esq., 163, Radnor Street, Hulme, Manchester.
RICHMOND, JAMES, Esq., Mosely House, Burnley.
RICKARDS, CHARLES H., Esq., J.P., Seymour Grove. Old Trafford, Manchester.
RIGBY, S., Esq.
ROBINSON, WILLIAM, Esq., The Hollies, Talbot Road, Old Trafford.
ROBSON, THOMAS W., Esq., 18, Aytoun Street, Manchester.
ROOKE, GEORGE, Esq., Moorside, Sale.
ROUNDELL, C. J., Esq., M.P., Osborne, Fernhurst, Hazlemere.
ROYLE, JOHN, Esq., 53, Port Street, Manchester.
ROYLANCE, E. W., Esq., Brookfield, Bury Old Rd., Cheetham Hill, M’chester.
RUMNEY, THOMAS, Esq., Hallcroft Cottage, Carnforth.
RUSHTON, THOMAS LEVER, Esq., Moor Platt, Horwich, near Bolton.
RYDER, T. D., Esq., St James’s Square, Manchester.
RYLANDS, J. PAUL, Esq., F.S.A., Highfields, Thelwall.
RYLANDS, W. HARRY, Esq., F.S.A., Biblical Archæological Society,
11, Hart Street, Bloomsbury, London.
SCHUNCK, J. EDGAR, Esq., Wicken Hall, near Rochdale.
SEVERS, FRED, Esq., 1, Dalton Terrace, Clayton St., Chorlton Rd.,
M’chester.
SCOTT, JOHN OLDRED, Esq., 31, Spring Gardens, London, S.W.
SCHOFIELD, THOMAS, Esq., J.P, Thornfield, Old Trafford.
SHAW, GILES, Esq., 72, Manchester Road, Oldham.
SHIERS, GEORGE ALFRED, Esq., Tyntesfield, Ashton-upon-Mersey.
SHIERS, RICHARD, Jun., Esq., Earlscliffe, Bowdon, Cheshire.
SIDEBOTHAM, JOSEPH, Esq., F.R.A.S., F.L.S., F.S.A., Erlesden, Bowdon,
Cheshire.
SITWELL, R., Esq., Morley, Derby.
SLARK, J. and A., Esqrs., 41, Fishergate, Preston.
SMEAL, A., Esq., Ravensla, Whalley Road, Whalley Range, Manchester.
SMITH, ASTON W., Esq., The Old Hall, Bootle.
SMITH, BRYCE, Esq., 16, Nicholas Street, Manchester.
SMITH, GEORGE J. W., Esq., Savings Bank, Stockport.
SMITH, JAMES, Esq., Highfield, Edge Lane, Chorlton-cum-Hardy.
SMITH, Rev. J. FINCH, M.A., F.S.A., Aldridge Rectory, Walsall.
SMITH, J., Jun., Esq., Legh Street, Warrington.
SMITH, ROBERT McDOWELL, Esq., Crumpsall, near Manchester.
SMITH, WILLIAM, Esq., Adswood Grove, Stockport.
SMITH, J. J., Esq., King Street, Manchester.
SOWLER, Lieut.-Colonel, Oak Bank, Victoria Park, Manchester.
STANLEY, C. J., Esq., Halscote, Grange-over-Sands.
STANTON, HENRY, Esq., Greenfield, Thelwall.
STEVENS, JAMES, Esq., F.R.I.B.A., Lime Tree House, Macclesfield.
STEINTHAL, H. M., Esq., The Hollies, Fallowfield, near Manchester.
STUBS, PETER, Esq., Statham Lodge, Warrington.
STANYER, The Rev. W., 41. Corporation Street, Manchester.
STARKEY, Miss, Northwich, Cheshire.
STEVENS, EDWARD, Esq., Alderley Edge, Cheshire.
STRANGEWAY, WILLIAM N., Esq., 59, Westmoreland Rd., Newcastle-on-Tyne.
STANNING, Rev. J. H., The Vicarage, Leigh.
SUTCLIFFE, FRED, Esq., Ash Street, Bacup.
SYDDALL, JAMES, Esq., Chadkirk, Romily, Cheshire.
TAYLOR, THOMAS, Esq., 33, St. James Street, Burnley.
THOMPSON, Alderman JOS., J.P., Riversdale, Wilmslow.
THORLEY, WILLIAM, Esq., Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway Offices,
Manchester.
TOLLEY, THOMAS, Esq., Warrington.
TOPP, ALFRED, Esq., J.P., Farnworth.
TOULMIN, GEORGE, Esq, _Guardian_ Office, Preston.
TURNER, W., Esq., Rusholme.
TURNER, JOHN, Esq., Woodville, Lytham.
TWEEDALE, CHARLES LAKEMAN, Esq., Holmefield House, Crawshawbooth.
UNDERDOWN, R. G., Esq., M. S. & L. Railway Company, Manchester.
WADDINGTON, WILLIAM, Esq., Market Superintendent, Burnley.
WADDINGTON, WM. ANGELO, Esq., 5, Carlton Road, Burnley.
WALKDEN,—Esq., 16, Nicholas Street, Manchester.
WALKER, THOMAS, Esq., Oldfield, Cheshire.
WALMESLEY, OSWALD, Esq., Shevington Hall, near Wigan.
WALSH, Dr. JOHN, Stonyhurst, near Whalley, Lancashire.
WALTERS, CHARLES, Esq., Clegg Street, Oldham.
WARRINGTON, the Museum and Library.
WATTERSON, WM. CRAVEN, Esq., Hill Carr, Bowdon, Cheshire.
WAINWRIGHT, JOHN, Esq., Carlton Lodge, Stretford.
WARBURTON, JOHN, Esq., Fairlie Villas, Raspberry Road, Fallowfield.
WARBURTON, SAMUEL, Esq., Sunnyhill, Crumpsall, Manchester.
WARBURTON, HENRY, Esq., The Elms, Hendham Vale, Manchester.
WATERS, — Esq., Manchester.
WATTS, JAMES, Esq., Portland Street, Manchester.
WATTS, JOHN, Esq., 23, Cross Street, Manchester.
WEBB, F. W., Esq., Chester Place, Crewe.
WEBSTER, WILLIAM, Esq., Abbotsfield, St. Helens.
WHITE, CHARLES, Esq., Holly Villa, Warrington.
WHITTAKER, W. WILKINSON, Esq., Cornbrook Park, Manchester.
WHITEHEAD, EDWIN, Esq., The Hurst, Taunton Road, Ashton-under-Lyne.
WHITTAKER, ROBERT, Esq., Birch House, Lees, near Manchester.
WILD, ROBERT, Esq., 134, St. James’s Street, Burnley.
WILKINSON, A., Esq., Westbourne Grove, Harpurhey, Manchester.
WILKINSON, T. R., Esq., The Polygon, Ardwick, Manchester.
WILKINSON, JOHN, Esq., 25, Manor Street, Ardwick, Manchester.
WILKINSON, WILLIAM, Esq., M.A., Middlewood, Clitheroe.
WILSON, WILLIAM, Esq., Savings Bank, Stockport.
WILSON, C. M., Esq., Lancaster Villa, Broughton Park, Manchester.
WINTERBOTHAM, HENRY, Esq., F.R.C.S., Bury New Road, Manchester
WOLSTENHOLME, CHARLES, Esq., Richmond Hill, Bowdon, Cheshire.
WOOD, JOHN, Esq., J.P., Arden, near Stockport,
WOOD, RICHARD, Esq., J.P., Plimpton Hall, Heywood, near Manchester.
WOOD, WILLIAM, Esq., Woodville, Bramhall, Cheshire.
WOOD, W. C., Esq., Brimscall Hall, Chorley, Lancashire.
WORTHINGTON, ED., Esq., Appley Bridge, near Wigan.
WOODHOUSE, GEORGE, Esq., Heath Bank, Chorley New Road, Bolton.
WOOD, ROBERT, Esq., Drywood Hall, Worsley.
WORTHINGTON, Alderman T., 33, Church Street, Manchester.
WRIGHT, E., ABBOTT, Esq., Castle Park, Frodsham, Cheshire.
YATES, J. W., Esq., Ashton-upon-Mersey.
YEOMAN, JOHN, Esq., 30, Union Street, Ardwick, Manchester.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
BOOKSELLERS.
BEMROSE & SONS, Derby.
BROWN & SONS, Macclesfield.
BUTLER, S., Altrincham.
BURGHOPE & STRANGE, Burnley.
BURGESS, HENRY, Northwich.
COOKE, Stretford Road, Manchester.
CORNISH, J. E., Piccadilly and St. Ann’s Square, Manchester.
DODGSON, J., Leeds.
DAY, T. J., Market Street, Manchester.
DOOLEY, HENRY, Stockport.
GALT, J. & CO., Corporation Street, Manchester.
GRAY, HENRY, Topographical Bookseller, 25, Cathedral Yard, Manchester.
GRUNDY, 68, Woodhouse Lane, Wigan.
HOWELL, E., Liverpool.
HOLDEN, ADAM, 48, Church Street, Liverpool.
HEYWOOD, ABEL & SON, Oldham Street, Manchester.
KENYON, W., Newton Heath, Manchester.
LITTLEWOOD, JAMES, Ashton-under-Lyne.
LUPTON, J. & A., Burnley.
MINSHULL & HUGHES, Chester.
PEARSE, J. C., Southport.
PEARSE, PERCIVAL, Warrington.
PHILLIPSON & GOLDER, Chester.
PLATT, RICHARD, Wigan.
RIDER, Leek.
ROWORTH, St Ann’s Square, Manchester.
ROBINSON, Preston.
SMITH, W. H. & SON, 1, New Brown Street, Manchester.
SMITH, W. H. & SON, L. & N. W. Railway and M. S. & L. Railway
Bookstalls, London Road Station, Manchester.
STOCK, ELLIOT, 62, Paternoster Row, London, E.C.
TUBBS & BROOK, Market Street, Manchester.
TRÜBNER & CO., London.
WALMSLEY, G. G., 50, Lord Street, Liverpool.
YABSLEY & CO., Sale, Cheshire.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
NOOKS AND CORNERS
OF
LANCASHIRE AND CHESHIRE.
CHAPTER I.
A RAILWAY RAMBLE—THE ROMAN CITY ON THE RIBBLE—A DAY-DREAM AT
RIBCHESTER.
On a bright morning in the exuberant summer time, ere the country had
lost the freshness of its earlier beauty, or the forest trees had
begun to bend beneath the weight of their blushing burdens, we found
ourselves on the platform of the Victoria Station with a friend, the
companion of many a pleasant wandering, equipped for a journey to the
fair country which skirts the base of Pendle Hill. We were both in high
spirits, and the beauty of the opening day added to our enjoyment The
morning was cool and clear, and radiant with the early sunshine—one
of those genial days when, as Washington Irving says, we seem to draw
in pleasure with the very air we breathe, and to feel happy we know
not why—the invigorating freshness of the atmosphere giving a pleasant
impulse to the spirits. There had been a slight fall of rain during the
night, but the breeze which followed had dried up the roadways, and
now all was bright and clear, and the unclouded sun poured down a flood
of brilliance that added to the charms of the early morn, imparting a
gladdening influence which even the sparrows seemed to share as they
flitted to and fro about the eaves with unceasing twitter.
For some distance the railway is carried over the house-tops, and
as the train speeds along we can look down upon the dreary web of
streets, the labyrinth of dwellings, the groves of chimneys, the mills,
workshops, and brick-kilns, and the strange admixture of squalor,
wretchedness, and impurity that go to make up the royal borough of
Salford. Soon we reach the outskirts, where the country still struggles
to maintain its greenness; then, after a short stoppage at Pendleton,
we enter upon the pleasant vale of Clifton, where we are enabled to
breathe the balmy atmosphere and drink in the fresh fragrance of the
flower-bespangled meads. Pleasant is it to escape from the gloomy
hives of brick, with their busy human throng, and to look abroad upon
the expanse of country reposing in the summer sunshine. The gentle
showers of the night seem to have refreshed the thirsty soil, and to
have given an invigorating aspect to the landscape, imparting to the
turf a brighter hue, and to the trees which clothe the folding bluffs a
brighter tinge of colouring, whilst the sunlight gleams upon the fields
and on the already ripening grain, and sparkles upon the lingering
rain-drops that hang like strings of pearls from every bush and twig.
On the left the quaint old hall of Agecroft, with its picturesque black
and white gables, twinkles through the wind-shaken leaves; the Irwell
meanders pleasantly through the fertile meadows on the right; and
beyond, the grey embattled tower of Prestwich Church may be seen rising
prominently above the umbraged slopes that bound the opposite side of
the valley.
[Illustration]
On, on we go with a screech and a roar, rattling over viaducts,
rumbling through rocky cuttings, rushing along steep embankments;
then rolling rapidly again over the level country, from whence we
can look back upon the dingy town of Bolton, memorable in the
annals of the great civil war as the place where the martyr Earl of
Derby sealed his loyalty with his life. The changing aspect of the
country now becomes manifest. Every mile brings a fresh picture, and
the variety itself adds to the interest of the journey. The land is
prettily featured—green and undulating, with well-wooded cloughs and
shady dingles, backed by lofty gritstone ridges, which here and there
soften into slopes of fertile beauty that form an admirable relief
to the pale blue hills which stretch away to the furthest point of
distance. Just before reaching the station at Chapeltown we get sight
of Turton Tower, a fine old relic of bygone days, once the home of
Manchester’s most noted “worthy”—Humphrey Chetham—and for a time, as
tradition tells us, the abode of Oliver Cromwell; and close by is
a picturesque gabled summer-house, surmounting a gentle eminence,
that forms a conspicuous object for miles around. Still onward, past
scattered hamlets, past mills, bleachworks, and collieries; past
farms, cottages, and old-fashioned timber-built dwellings that more or
less merit the appellation of “hall” applied to them; past meadows,
fields, and pastures, where the hedgerows and trees seem to revolve
in a never-ending reel, while the telegraph wires that stretch from
post to post rise and fall in a succession of graceful genuflexions.
On, on! Small streams are crossed, bridges are shot through, and then
the “express” thunders past with a deafening roar, almost terrifying
the life out of a nervous old lady who sits opposite to us, and who,
on recovering her breath, feels instinctively inside her left-hand
glove to make sure that her ticket has not been spirited away by the
fiery iron monster. Darwen—cold, stony-looking Darwen—is passed, and
presently Blackburn is reached, where a few minutes is considerately
allowed to stretch our legs and look about us. The prospect, however,
is not altogether lovely, and the people are as little prepossessing in
appearance as the place itself, so that we are not sorry when our brief
respite is brought to an abrupt termination by the sharp “Now then,
gentlemen,” of the guard, when, resuming our seats, the carriage door
is slammed to by that energetic official.
A few puffs, a whistle, and a screech, and we are moving swiftly over
the green landscape again. The meadows widen, and the trees and hedges
fly past as if driven by the whirlwind. Onwards, on and on, until
we reach the little roadside station that forms the terminus of our
railway journey.
Ribchester, for that is the name of the station, is Ribchester station
only by courtesy[1]—the old Roman town whose name has been somewhat
unceremoniously appropriated being a good three miles away; so that
we shall have to lengthen our walk considerably before we reach the
Roman _Rigodunum_. On leaving the station we turn to the left, and
then, crossing the railway bridge, follow an ascending path that leads
past a few squalid-looking cottages which stand irregularly along the
edge of a tract of common land—the grazing ground of an impassive
donkey and of a flock of geese that begin to sibilate and crane their
necks spitefully as we go by. A little brick chapel with a bell-cot at
one end stands on the further side of the green, and close by is the
village school. Leaving this uninviting spot, we continue our walk past
a few waste-looking fields and across the level summit of an eminence
the verdant slopes of which stretch away on either side. Presently the
road descends, winding hither and thither between pleasant hedgerows
and embossed banks, garlanded with the gaily-coloured flowers of the
exuberant summer time, “the jewels of earth’s diadem,” speaking of Him
Whose hand hath shed wild flowers
In clefts o’ the rock, and clothed green knolls with grass,
And clover, and sweet herbs and honey dews,
Shed in the starlight bells, where the brown bees
Draw sweets.
[Note 1: Wilpshire is the name now given to the station.]
At every turn we get pretty snatches of scenery, with glimpses of
cattle-dappled pastures and green fields, where the black, glossy rooks
are hovering about and cawing loudly to each other as if discussing the
result of their recent entomological researches. Looking across the
country the high downs are seen with their broad green cloud-mottled
shoulders, half-hiding the undulating hills that stretch away along
the dim blue line of the horizon. By-and-by Ribblesdale, one of the
prettiest vales in the kingdom, opens upon us. Below, the river winds
its snake-like course through the meadows, its ample bosom gleaming
in the sun like molten silver. On the right, lying low among the tall
ash-trees, is Salesbury Hall, a quaint half-timbered mansion, once the
abode of a branch of the great family of the Talbots, one of whom aided
in the capture of the unfortunate Henry VI., and previously the home
successively of the Salesburys, the Cliderhows, and the Mauleverers.
Conspicuous on the further side of the valley are seen the stately
towers of Stonyhurst crowning a wooded slope, that swells gradually up
from the margin of the Hodder, forming one of the spurs of Longridge
Fell. Looking up the valley, the eye takes in the long-backed slopes
of Pendle Hill, the abrupt elevation on which stands the ruined keep
of Clitheroe Castle, the wooded heights of Wiswell and Whalley, the
dark-hued moorlands that extend to the ancient forests of Bowland, with
Bleasdale Moor, Waddington Fell, and the screen of hills that sweep
round in an irregular circle to meet the huge form of Longridge Fell
lying upon the landscape like a monster couchant.
A quaint relic of the olden time stands by the wayside on the left. A
gabled mansion of the time of the Second Charles, now occupied by a
farmer, but still bearing the name of New Hall, though, as the date
(1665) testifies, the storms of more than two hundred winters have
broken upon it since George Talbot, a younger son of Sir John of
that name, placed his initials and the crest of his family above the
doorway. At this point the road diverges to the right, and a few paces
bring us to the margin of the Ribble, when a charming prospect meets
the eye, a prospect that would have delighted the heart of Cuyp had
he had the opportunity of sketching it. There was no stir or fret—no
excitement. All was calm, placid, and serene. The swift and shallow
Ribble lay before us, sparkling and glistening all over, save on the
further side, where a row of trees that fringed the roadway flung the
broad shadows of their spreading branches upon its placid bosom. There
was a Sabbath-like peace in the air, and the stillness of a summer
day lay profoundly as a trance upon the scene. An old-fashioned punt,
moored to the side, lazily dragged its creaking chain, and now and
then chafed itself against the bank as the motion of the water gently
swayed it to and fro. Before us Ribchester Bridge lay bestriding the
stream—its broad circular arches reflected in the water with a distinct
vividness that was interrupted only at intervals when their image was
broken into a quivering indistinctness as a passing gust rippled the
mirrored bosom of the water. As we stood gazing upon the scene, a boat
borne by the current slowly glided down the river, looking like a bird
suspended in the blue of heaven. The oars were poised in the rowlocks,
and the water, dripping from their flashing blades, fell upon the
glassy surface, and spread out in widening silver rings that floated
slowly onwards.
[Illustration: RIBCHESTER BRIDGE.]
Crossing the bridge, at the foot of which stands a comfortable inn—the
De Tabley Arms—we wound away to the left, following the bold sweep of
the Ribble, and a few moments later entered the “Aunciente Towne” of
Ribchester. Ribchester! What visions of antiquity float before the
imagination as the stranger enters this little unpretending village,
for town it can now hardly be called. What memories of the past are
awakened at the mere mention of the name. The old distich, which the
inhabitants still take pride in repeating, tells us that
It is written upon a wall in Rome
Ribchester was as rich as any toune in Christendome.[2]
[Note 2: Camden’s Britannia, Ed. 1586, p. 431.]
The first glimpse, even were we unsupported by tradition, would lead
us to believe that this part of the valley of the Ribble was even in
earliest times a place of some importance, for, admirably protected by
Nature, and adapted as it must then have been to the requirements of
an untamed and uncivilised race, it was hardly likely to have escaped
the searching eye of our Celtic forefathers, being then protected by
naked marshes, and flanked on each side by lofty eminences, with a
wide river between on which their slim coracles might float; whilst
adjacent was the great forest of Bowland, the haunt of the wolf, the
boar, and other wild animals, whose skins would supply clothing, and
their flesh sustenance, to the hardy hunter. Whether the primeval
Britons established a colony here or not, certain it is that when the
more refined subjects of the Cæsars had established themselves as
conquerors of the country, Ribchester attained to a high degree of
eminence, and became one of the richest and most important stations
in the newly-acquired territory. For the greater protection and
security of the conquered lands in the North, Agricola constructed
a chain of forts from one extremity of Lancashire to the other,
and occupying the sites now held by Lancaster, Ribchester, Walton,
Blackrod, Manchester, Overborough, and Colne. The most important
of these stations, as evidenced by the richness and variety of the
remains that have at different times been discovered, was the one at
Ribchester. The place lost its pre-eminence after the fall of the
Roman government in Britain, but the foundation of its buildings long
defied the ravages of time, though now the searching eye can scarce
discover the faintest relic of their former existence. Leland, the
old topographer, who visited the place in the early part of the 16th
century, says: “Ribchester is now a poore thing; it hath beene an
Auncient Towne. Great squared stones, voultes, and antique coynes be
found ther: and ther is a place wher that the people fable wher that
the Jues had a temple.”[3] No doubt the temple existed, for the remains
of it have been traced in later times, but it was Pagan and not Jewish,
and was dedicated, as Dr. Whitaker supposed from an inscription found
upon the site, by an empress or princess of the Imperial Roman family
to the goddess Minerva. Ribchester has been prolific in remains of
Roman art, and many of the altars, statues, bronzes, and “antique
coynes” that have been dug up have been carried away to enrich the
archæological museums of other parts of the country, or have found
their way into those of private collectors, where they are practically
lost to the student of antiquity, for, unfortunately, there is hardly
a town in Lancashire which possesses a museum worthy of the name where
such exhumed treasures might find a fitting resting-place. Pennant
mentions having seen a sculpture, discovered on digging a grave in
the churchyard, representing a Roman soldier carrying a _labarum_,
or standard of cavalry; but perhaps the most remarkable relic is
the elaborately ornamented bronze helmet found in 1796, familiar to
antiquaries by the engravings which have appeared in the _Vetusta
Monumenta_, and in the histories of Whitaker and Baines. So lately as
the beginning of the present century a Roman house and hypocaust were
brought to light whilst excavating the foundations for a building on
the banks of the river; altars dedicated to various divinities have on
different occasions been unearthed, with other memorial stones, coins,
pottery, glass, articles of personal adornment, ampullæ, fibulæ, &c;
and even in recent times, though less frequently than of yore, when the
earth is removed to any considerable depth relics are turned up which
help to illustrate the habits and customs of the Roman settlers, and
prove the wide diffusion of the elegant and luxurious modes of life it
was their aim to introduce.
[Note 3: Itinerary IV., fol. 39.]
It requires no great stretch of the imagination to picture the
Ribchester of those far-off days. The picture, it is true, may be only
shadowy and indistinct seen through the long distance which intervenes;
but, carrying the mind back to those remote times, let us contemplate
the scene presented to our fancied gaze. It is Britain—Britain in
the darkest period of its history, the Britain of Caractacus and
Boadicea—but how great the contrast from the Britain of to-day! A broad
flowing river separates us from the opposite land, the tide flows up,
and the wavelets break monotonously upon the shore. Before us and on
each side rise gently swelling hills clothed with dense forests of
oak—primeval monarchs that have budded and flourished and shed their
leaves through long centuries of silent solitude. There are no towns
or villages, no fertile meadows and rich pasture fields; not a sign of
a habitation can we discern save here and there where the dark woods
have been thinned, and a solitary hut, rudely constructed of wood and
wattles, bears evidence of man’s existence. Looking more closely into
the picture, we can discover the naked and painted forms of human
beings—men eager, impetuous, brave, armed with javelin and spear, and
ready to engage with any chance foe that may cross their path whilst
seeking for their prey among the wild beasts of their native woods.
Gradually the view dissolves. Softly, slowly, it fades away, and
darkness overspreads the scene. Hark! The sound of distant strife
breaks faintly upon the ear; there is a rumble of war chariots and
the hollow tramp of legionaries; then a fire blazes on the top of
Longridge Fell, lighting up the heavens with a ruddy glare; the signal
is answered by successive flashes from Pendle Hill and from beacons
more remote. In a moment the scene is alive with the forms of men armed
with spear and shield, hurrying to and fro, brandishing their javelins
with impatient haste, eager to meet the coming foe. Meanwhile the
conquering eagles of imperial Rome are seen advancing. Cohort follows
cohort, and legion succeeds to legion. With measured pace and steady
tread they come. There is the shock of mortal combat; the valley echoes
with the clang of arms and the fell shout of war; and Briton and Roman
are struggling together for conquest and for life.
The hardy Briton struggled with his foe,
Dared him to battle on the neighb’ring height;
And dusky streamlets reddened with the flow
From heroes dying for their country’s right.
Their simple weapons ’gainst the serried ranks,
Full disciplined in war, were hurled in vain;
Well greaved and helmeted, the firm phalanx
Received their fierce attack in proud disdain.
It is over. Undisciplined valour yields to superior military skill, and
the heroic Britons, defeated but not subdued, are driven for refuge
within the fastnesses of their native woods, leaving those green slopes
crimsoned with the life-blood of a people who, if they knew not how to
fight, knew at least how valiant men should die.
Another tableau of history succeeds. Order arises out of disorder.
After many struggles, in which her greatest generals have taken part,
Rome, by her obstinate bravery, has succeeded in carrying her eagles
northward as far as the banks of the Tay. The line of conquest is
marked by a chain of forts erected with masterly judgment to keep
in check the more disaffected of the northern tribes, and these
strongholds are connected by a network of military ways, the course of
which, after a lapse of eighteen centuries, may still be discerned—a
proof that the Roman road makers were no despicable engineers.
One of these military ways—the one from _Mancunium_ (Manchester)—led
through Ribchester, and, passing Stoneygate, climbed the rugged slopes
of Longridge Fell and along the tops of the hills, whence, taking an
easterly direction, it traversed the Forest of Bowland, and thence
continued to _Eboracum_ (York). Though their levels were chosen on
different principles, the lines they followed were indicated by the
great features of nature, and were pretty much the same as those
adopted by the makers of our modern iron roads. Long centuries after
the Roman had taken his departure these military roads formed the
great highways of traffic. The tracks traversed by Agricola and his
victorious legionaries have since been trodden in succession by Pict
and Scot, by Plantagenet and Tudor, by Cavalier and Roundhead, by the
hapless followers of the ill-fated Stuart, and by the ruthless soldiery
of the Hanoverian King, and in later and more peaceful times by long
lines of pack-horses, laden with the products of the Lancashire looms.
Agricola, having now satisfied his thirst for military glory, has
become a pacificator and law-giver in the newly-acquired provinces. The
subjugated natives, attracted by the fame of the illustrious Roman,
steal from their hiding places in the woods, and learn the manners and
customs of civilisation, and with them, it is to be feared, vices which
before they knew not of.
Turn we again. Another picture dawns upon us, dimly and obscurely
enough at first, but becoming more distinctly visible as the darkness
fades away. The appearance of the people is changed, and the aspect of
the country has changed with them. Time has passed on—the river that we
before gazed upon still flows on as of yore, though somewhat narrowed
in its proportions. The woods now ring with the war clarion of the
invincible auxiliaries; the wattled huts have disappeared; and in the
assart space they occupied a flourishing city is seen, with halls and
porticoes and statues, in humble imitation of the then magnificence
of the city that crowns the seven hills. Where the oaks grew thick,
and the wild bull, the wolf, and the boar reigned in undisputed
possession, a military fortification has been built, with ramparts
and towers and turrets, and close by, to celebrate the subjugation
of the brave Brigantes, a pagan temple has been reared in honour of
Minerva, for the sound of glad tidings has not yet come across the
sea. The scene is one of bustle and organisation. Here, on the quay,
merchants are congregated with traders from Gaul and Phœnicia, and
adventurers from more distant lands, bartering earthenware, implements
of agriculture, and other commodities which those colonists of the old
world have brought with them, for the treasures of the soil. There a
gang of labouring captives, sullen and unwilling, are toiling under
the eye of their relentless taskmasters. Strange-looking vessels
are borne upon the bosom of the stream, unwieldy in form, with long
lines of oars shooting out from each side, and prows resplendent with
paint and gilding, standing high up out of the water. Now and then a
gaily-decorated galley floats past, freighted with fair Olympias, or
bearing, perchance, some tender Sistuntian maid, whose loving heart,
flinging aside the trammels of religion and race, has cast her lot
with the conquerors of the land. Under the shadow of that wall a
sentinel, in classic garb, with helmet and sandal, paces his measured
round, and, pausing now and then, leans upon his spear, and muses
upon the scenery of his own German home. Within the garrison all is
gaiety and enthusiasm; there are marchings and countermarchings, and
transmissions of signals, and relievings of guard. How the lances
glitter in the light, and the brazen helmets reflect the glory of
the midday sun. Here are gathered fighting men from all parts of
Europe—Dalmatians, Thracians, and Batavians—who are talking over the
victories of the past, and thinking, perhaps, of those timorous eyes
that beamed tenderly upon them, and wept their departure from their
distant homes—Moors of swarthy hue from the shores of Africa, whose
dark skins have flashed terror into the souls of the pale Northern
tribes; stern-visaged Frisians from the marshes of Holland; and
stalwart Asturians, with veteran warriors who have fought through many
a campaign and earned for themselves the proud title of conquerors of
the world.
The conquerors of the world! Time has passed rapidly on, and Rome,
the vaunted mistress of the world, with difficulty grasps her own.
Pierced by barbarian hordes, torn by intestine wars, weakened at heart
and tottering to her ruin, her last legions have been recalled for
her own defence, and the fair provinces of the West are abandoned to
the Northern savages, who come, as Gildas relates, “like hungry and
ravening wolves rushing with greedy jaws upon the fold.”
Yet once again, a change—and lo!
The Roman even himself must go;
While Dane and Saxon scatter wide
Each remnant of his power and pride.
Enfeebled by long submission to the Roman yoke, deprived of the
protection of the forces of the empire, the flower of her youth drafted
away to swell the armies of the Emperors Maximus and Constantine,
Britain is left in a state of utter defencelessness, and speedily
becomes a prey to those warlike hordes that come pouring in from the
maritime provinces of Germany, Norway, and Sweden. The period that
follows is one of anarchy and confusion, of Saxon conquest and Danish
spoliation.
But we pass on. Another picture is shadowed forth, and what is this
that meets the gaze? The scene of fierce war and angry passions, of
conquest and oppression, of barbaric rudeness and pagan splendour, is
now a desolate and deserted waste, where the frail creations of man
are blended with the ever-enduring works of God. The relentless foot
of Time has pressed heavily upon these wrecks of human greatness—a few
straggling walls, a ruined temple, pavements worn down by the tread of
many a Roman foot, broken columns, with fragments of masonry, are all
the vestiges that remain to denote the ancient importance of the Roman
_Rigodunum_—all the signs that are left to point out where merchants
gathered and where warriors prepared for conquest and for fame.
The departure of the Roman legionaries inflicted a heavy blow on the
fortunes of the city. The period of Saxon conquest was followed by the
descent of the wild Scandinavian marauders—the Jarls and sea-kings of
the North, who, with their piratical hordes, swept the country, leaving
the red mark of death and desolation in their wake.
What time the Raven flapped his gory wing,
And scoured the White Horse o’er this harried realm;
His crowded galley brought the dread Viking,
Lust at his prow, and rapine at the helm.
The splendour of Ribchester must have waned rapidly, for after the
overthrow of Harold on the red field of Hastings, when the victorious
Norman made his great survey of the conquered country, it had become
so insignificant as to be accounted a mere village dependent upon
Preston, then rising into note. Yet it did not escape the fury of the
invading Scot, whose footsteps were everywhere marked with blood and
destruction, for in one of those frequent incursions after the defeat
at Bannockburn—when, as old Hollinshead tells us, the victorious Bruce
marched his army through Cumberland, Westmoreland, and Lancaster to
Preston—the miserable inhabitants were driven from their homes, and the
place burned to the ground. Subsequently its fortunes revived, and for
a time it could boast of having no less than three fairs, an evidence
of its increased importance. In the unhappy struggle between Charles
the First and his Parliament it was the scene of an encounter (April,
1643) between the Royalist forces, led by the Earl of Derby, and the
Parliamentarian levies, commanded by Colonel Shuttleworth, resulting
in a victory for the latter; and tradition says that five years later
(August, 1648) Cromwell slept at the old white house, opposite the
Strand, on the night before the memorable battle of Ribblesdale, and
there, with Major-General Ashton, matured the plan of those operations
which ere the next setting of the sun had proved fatal to the Duke of
Hamilton, and tinged the flowing river with the blood of his Scottish
followers as deeply as their ancestors had dyed it with English blood
three centuries before. In more peaceful times, when the cotton trade
was yet in its infancy, hand-loom weaving flourished, and formed the
staple industry; but the day of prosperity has passed, and the place
has now dwindled down to the condition of a mean and insignificant
country village, old-fashioned in aspect and quiet enough for the grass
to grow in the narrow and painfully-ill-paved streets that struggle on
towards the river. So lifeless looking is it that were it not for a few
loiterers standing about the doorway of the “Bull,” and that we now and
then hear the clack of the shuttle, it would seem
Like one vast city of the dead,
Or place where all are dumb.
After long centuries of vicissitude and change, except the shadowy
memories of the past, the ancient parish church is almost the only
object that remains to arrest the steps of the inquiring wayfarer,
and this well deserves examination. Tradition hovers about the place,
and tells us that after the conversion of King Edwin, the great
missionary Paulinus here proclaimed the glad tidings of salvation, in
commemoration of which event the symbol of the Christian’s faith—the
cross—was planted, contemporaneously with those in the neighbouring
churchyard of Whalley; and that the first “modest house of prayer”
was erected on the spot once occupied by the temple of Minerva. The
late Canon Raines believed the church at Ribchester was coeval in
antiquity with that at Whalley. It is the work of many hands and many
separate eras, and, as may be supposed, exhibits many different styles
of architecture. The oldest part is undoubtedly the chancel, the
windows of which are, for the most part, of the narrow lancet style,
showing that it must have been built about the year 1220. Portions of
the nave and the north aisle exhibit the rich detail of the Decorated
period, and the tower bears evidence that it is of later date, the main
features being of Perpendicular character. In the south wall of the
chancel is an ancient arched sedilia, with a piscina and credence table
attached, and on the north side is a solid block of stone, whereon
are carved three heraldic shields bearing the arms of the Hoghtons
and some of their alliances. This stone is commonly supposed to be a
tomb, but it is more probable that it was intended as a seat in times
when only the patron and some of his more influential neighbours were
so accommodated, the general body of worshippers standing or kneeling
during the services of the Church. The Hoghtons, whose arms it bears,
were for generations lords of Ribchester, and one of them, Sir Richard
Hoghton, in 1405, founded and endowed the chantry on the north side
known as the “Lady Chapel,” in which are still preserved the remains of
the ancient altar and piscina.
Our story is told, and we now draw the veil over these grass-grown
by-ways of the past. Eighteen centuries have rolled by since Agricola
planted his eagles on the northern shores of the Ribble; for 400
years the Roman wrought and ruled; Saxon and Dane and Norman have
followed in his wake, and each successive race has left its distinctive
peculiarities stamped upon the institutions of the country. In that
time kingdoms and empires have risen and passed away, generation after
generation has come and gone. The old hills still lift their heads to
the breezes of heaven, the stream flows on as of yore, and the sun
shines with the same splendour as it shone in those ancient days—but
where are they who peopled the busy scene?
They are vanished
Into the air, and what seemed corporal melted.
With Cassius we might exclaim,—
They are fled away and gone,
And in their stead the ravens, crows, and kites
Fly o’er our heads.
The splendid civilisation which the Roman colonists brought with them
did not long outlive their departure. The strongholds they built, the
palaces they reared, have disappeared. Where once gleamed the spears of
the Imperial soldiery the plough now passes and the harvest smiles. The
Roman has passed away, and the glory of Ribchester has passed away with
him, scarcely a stone now remaining to tell the story of its former
greatness.
[Illustration: MARPLE HALL.]
[Illustration]