Where is the little gipsy’s home?
Under the spreading greenwood tree,
Wherever she may roam,
Where’er that tree may be;
Roaming the world o’er,
Crossing the deep blue sea,
She finds on every shore
A home among the free!
A home among the free,
Ah, voilà la gitana, voilà la gitana.
_Drama, of “Notre Dame.”_ By HALLIDAY.
PURCHASES--ZACHARIAH’S TROUBLE--ESMERALDA’S PHOTOGRAPH--THE
KIÖD--PRICE OF MEAT--THE YACHTSMEN--THE THREE PEAKS--THE
SPIRIT-WORLD--FROST BITES--ULTIMA THULE--ESMERALDA
GALVANISED--THE FJORD--HEEN KIRKE--PARELIUS--EIDER
DUCKS--BEAUTIFUL BOUQUETS.
Our gipsies had breakfast ready soon after 7 o’clock, and taking Noah
with us, we found Mr. L. at Veblungsnœs. With his assistance we obtained
from an excellent general shop, the only one of the kind apparently in
Veblungsnœs, two bottles of very good port wine, for one dollar two
marks twelve skillings, twelve pounds of brown sugar, for one dollar
four skillings, or about eight shillings and eight pence English money;
some brimstone and treacle for the gipsies, soap, and some small items
came to another dollar. The owner of the shop, which contained a variety
of almost everything, had a counting-house attached, where he changed
for us a ten-pound Bank of England note, into a quantity of small money
of the country. We forget his name. All tradesmen should have their name
and address printed at the head of their bills, and give one on all
occasions, so that chance customers may have some means of reference and
recommendation. Noah was heavily weighted; more bread cost two marks
four skillings, and some sundries, and gurnet for dinner, made our
expenditure nearly another dollar. Mr. L. had read much in English, and,
although he had never been in England, conversed with great ease and
fluency in the English language. We returned to our camp, to meet Herr
Solberg, the photographer.
The day was beautiful, Herr Solberg was ready with his apparatus. The
photographer came from Molde; he is a tall, pale, quiet, intelligent
man. Esmeralda had put our things ready, so that our toilette was soon
made. As to herself, she was resplendent in the blue dress, plaid braid,
and silver buttons. Her brothers had very few additions they could make,
but Noah contrived to buy at Veblungsnœs a paper front and collar, which
gave him immense satisfaction. Zachariah was in a melancholy temper; no
one had bought him a churie (gip. shut-knife) at Veblungsnœs. His
existence was blurred, his cheerfulness clouded, and his smile was gone.
[Illustration: THE ENGLISH GIPSIES’ CAMP AT VEBLUNGSNŒS.]
About 12 o’clock Herr Solberg took his first stereoscopic view. Mr. L.,
some ladies, and one of our former visitors, a Norwegian captain and his
son and children, came to our camp. The stereoscopic view was pronounced
perfect. The donkeys were a success, and the wooded hill above our camp
came out with the background exceedingly well. Another photograph of
ourselves, tents and donkeys, was afterwards made, and also a carte de
visite of Esmeralda, standing under a birch-tree, with her tambourine in
her hand. On her finger is a silver ring, presented to her by one of our
friends, as a memento of Veblungsnœs. As the ladies sat on the grass
looking on, we set our musical-box to play near them, and so the day
passed until 3 o’clock, when the sun having been too high and powerful
for a good single photograph, Herr Solberg left us to have our dinner,
and to return again at 4 o’clock. Our gurnet was very good, but
exceedingly reduced in substance in boiling. Upon Herr Solberg’s return,
he took another successful photograph of our camp, and left. The donkeys
are very difficult to take, but by a happy chance they were exceedingly
quiet at the right moment. The engraving now given, is taken from Herr
Solberg’s photograph of our gipsy camp at Veblungsnœs.
Noah was soon required on duty. Having sufficient time before tea, we
went to Veblungsnœs, and bought some sealing-wax and glue, whilst Noah
went to a spirit store, kept by an old man, who had all the appearance
of a jovial Bacchanalian. Two or three bottles of aquavit, or
brændeviin, a sort of corn brandy, was bought by Noah. We afterwards
imagined the bottles were filled with the dregs of one of the casks,
perhaps, the brandy was therefore more potent. Certain impurities
floating about did not inspire confidence. It was inferior to that we
had purchased from the steward of the steamer at Lillehammer. The brandy
was intended for our peasant visitors at camp. We were annoyed, but
found they were not very squeamish, and seemed to like it; yet we
wished to give them the very best, and were always ready to give the
highest price.
Meat, or as it is called in Norwegian, kiöd, is not very obtainable. No
butchers’ shops are to be met with at Veblungsnœs. No joints of meat
hanging up for sale. Mr. L. believed that a large ox had been killed for
the funeral of a substantial bonde, residing at a large house, on the
high-road near Veblungsnœs church, and he would inquire. We had just
returned to our camp when we received a letter from Mr. L. and went with
the bearer to the bondegaard. They could let us have ten or fifteen
pounds of beef, at ten skillings per pound. We went up some steps from
the road to the house-door; but the atmosphere was too close for us to
remain inside. Going with a man to a door at one end of the house, he
entered a kind of cellar, and we were shown the meat in a cask. They
kindly sold us ten pounds of the beef, which Noah took away. We paid
four marks four skillings, or three shillings and nine pence English
money value. Being uncertain when we should have another chance of
buying fresh meat, we thought it desirable to save our stores as much as
possible.
Visitors were at our tents when we returned for tea. Sounds of voices
speaking nautical English met our ear: the skipper of the yacht
“Claymore” introduced himself, with one of the yacht’s crew and their
Norwegian pilot. The skipper said two or three young English gentlemen
were cruising with their yacht, and she was at anchor in the Fjord[67]
near Veblungsnœs. The yacht had reached Christiansand about the time we
reached Christiania. We gave them some brandy, and the skipper seemed
quite delighted to see anyone who could talk English. He told us they
had an ancient claymore for a figure-head on board, and three dogs and a
monkey. On leaving they said we might probably come to see the yacht
before she left.
The Norwegian Sunday commences at 5 o’clock on Saturday afternoon. As
usual, we determined not to allow any music in the evening, and we heard
afterwards, the farmer, who was very scrupulous upon the observance of
the Sunday, was much pleased.
When our Visitors from the “Claymore” were gone we were ready for tea.
Zachariah was unable to eat any of the fried meat. Our can of water was
boiled, and our beef fried, at our camp fire, at the bottom of the
grassy knoll, on which our tents were pitched. A clear, winding, narrow
brook, shaded by alder and birch bushes, rippled below us; the grass was
short, having been newly mown, and the hay was taken away. A fine bold
mountain rose before us, with rocky peaks, as we looked from
Veblungsnœs. The summer’s sun had not melted all its winter snow. Its
three peaks were called the King, Queen, and Bishop. After tea Captain
C. came by our tents _en route_ to the telegraph office. All were
anxious to hear tidings of the war. Mr. L. coming to our camp soon
after, told us the news, and we all walked together to Aak.
The walk from our camp to Aak must have been about two miles. Mr. L.
conversed with a young Norwegian gentleman who joined us, and we
sauntered along with Captain C. The calm stillness of the Norwegian
evening was very refreshing. By some chance our conversation turned
upon ghost lore as one of our subjects. Each had our idea. Captain C.
related one or two singular instances of undoubted occurrences. Wraiths,
it has been said, may be accounted for by the wave of thought in distant
manifestation. The body in one place and the spirit in another; voices
as sounds seemingly distinct, sometimes heard through the wide distance
between two souls inseparable. Before departure from the world, the
spirit sometimes manifests itself to some loved friend. The wraith has
accomplished its mission, and it is gone for ever. People who dwell with
Nature seem peculiarly susceptible to such influences. In the regions of
the mightiest works of our Creator’s hand, we find them naturally most
prone to such impressions. Gipsies are not without their experiences on
such subjects. More than one instance has found a place in our gipsy
lore.
We have reached Aak, our discussion on a variety of subjects, ends in
our finding ourself in a most comfortable room, hung round by
photographs of Norwegian scenery, and seated at a small table, quaffing
a glass of sparkling baiersk öl. The presence of English travellers was
evident, from a marked attention to ventilation. A tidy pige, or
waiting-girl, with quiet manner, and ready attention, attended to some
travellers, who were taking their evening meal, at a long table near us.
All was cleanliness and comfort at Aak.
Our stay at Aak was brief. We returned to our tents with Mr. L., who was
full of information about his country. Those who are accustomed to our
English climate, can scarcely realize the length of a Norwegian winter.
It is very cold at Veblungsnœs, from about the middle of September to
the middle of March. All that we now saw before us, so pleasant and
smiling, would in a short time be covered with a white fleecy mantle of
deep snow. Many scarcely venture out from September to March, and the
cold winds sometimes produce on the face, not inured to continued
exposure, what is called the Rose. It is a pink tinge upon the
countenance, which in some is not altogether a blemish. Frost-bites and
chilblains are of course the occasional result of so much cold.
Frost-bites should be rubbed at once with snow. The oil from reindeer
cheese is said to be a cure for frost-bites. Although the cold is
intense at times, the atmosphere is dry and not unhealthy. If the
Norwegian summer were twice the length, Norway would be a paradise.
The morning was windy, Noah’s tent was almost blown over. Our breakfast
consisted of tea and bread and butter. Esmeralda was not well; Zachariah
was still afflicted with a churie (gip., shut-knife) monomania. Two
days’ inactivity, and extra good living, was evidently plunging our
gipsies, into the depths of biliousness. It was in vain we had dosed
Zachariah with brimstone and treacle, until he was a qualified inmate
for Dotheboys’ Hall, and a fortnight with Wackford Squeers, would have
done him an immense amount of good. Noah was always lively. A few hours’
rapid movement would restore all.
With all their waywardness, and restlessness of spirit, we had the
elements for rapid action, and a physical energy, with which to push
through any obstacle. Veblungsnœs, it was determined, should be our
Ultima Thule, and striking our tents on Monday morning, we should seek
new scenes in the wild Norwegian fjelds. Still wandering south--still on
our homewards route, our little band of hardy nomads, would have to
brace themselves to fresh exertion. What a vast expanse of mountain,
glen and forest lay before us, which we must traverse, before we again
reached the sea.
At half-past nine o’clock Esmeralda was ready to accompany me to
Veblungsnœs. She looked well in her blue dress, plaid braid, and silver
buttons, and her heavy boots were blacked and shining, specially for the
visit. As we entered the avenue of trees all was quiet and repose. A
Sunday in England could not have been more calm, and free from busy
turmoil and bustle. The town of Veblungsnœs seemed to have a perpetual
Sunday, for it was the same on week days; there was nothing dull, or
dreary about the place, yet there was nothing to see in it; it possessed
an indefinable charm, arising out of its attempt at nothing. We left it
as we found it, to be remembered with pleasure.
Esmeralda had been promised to see the telegraphic apparatus. Our word
to our gipsies was always relied upon by them; if it was said to them,
it was done. Mr. L. was ready to receive us, and the apparatus was
explained, and Esmeralda was electrified. With a present of a quantity
of strawberries from Mr. L. she departed for our camp, whilst Mr. L.
arranged for our departure in a boat to see the “Heen Kirke,” on the
Isfjord.
The Isfjord is a fine expanse of water. Our two oarsmen were ready,
strong hardy men, chewing tobacco without intermission, and spitting
perpetually. Their pallor of countenance may have been produced by
immoderate chewing. The yacht, “Claymore,” was resting at anchor; the
owners of the craft were enjoying a sporting tour. There is a great
enjoyment of independence in a yacht cruise. Norway is admirably adapted
for yachting; but our time was limited, and getting the wind, our sail
was hoisted, and we soon left Veblungsnœs in the distance. Gentle slopes
rise from the margin of the Fjord for a short distance, dominated by
lofty steeps and rising hills; here and there small log houses, being
the residences of the peasant owners, come into view. The small property
round each, is their farm.
The cost of an ordinary sized farm on the shores of the Fjord, would
average about 600 to 700 dollars, or about £157. 10s. English money,
according to the size of the farm. Few attempts are ever made to give to
the Bondegaard, the picturesque appearance of the Swiss cottage. With
very little more expense and labour, the Norwegian peasant’s cottage,
might be made exceedingly pretty, and ornamental.
The “Heen Kirke” had no unusual attraction in itself; one Norwegian
church is so like another. No old monuments to please the antiquarian
taste; no mediæval tombs; no brasses, Norman arches, Saxon doorways, and
decorated windows; no corbels, bosses, and grotesque imagery of ancient
stone sculpture; no tesselated pavement, and richly ornamented
cloisters, dark with age, and dim with poetic light. No peel of bells,
and massive tower covered with ivy, resorted to by owls, and jackdaws.
No ecclesiastical library of black-lettered books, curiously and
substantially bound, in dark and dusty covers, crammed into shelves, and
forgotten in some corner of the vestry. The worm-eaten oak chest was
wanting also, containing well-thumbed registers and sacramental plate,
secured by three large locks, one for the vicar and one for each of the
churchwardens. The Norman stone font, with elaborate carving was absent.
The crypt and sedilia,[68] were not to be found, and a chained Bible we
did not see.[69] Yet, withal, the people are earnest in their prayer,
their ways are those of peace, and their pastors appear to hold the
affections of their flock.
We had a beautiful view of the “Kavlee Fjeld” as we returned. Stretching
forests of pine extended beyond the head of the Fjord. On our left we
saw the once abode of “Parelius,” a wild spot beneath a precipice, near
the margin of the Fjord. Parelius was a great linguist. No one appears
to have chronicled his linguistic skill, though he learned a living
language, which few if any can. Even the Parisien of the Jardin des
Tuileries, whose command over birds is wonderful, did not seem to know
their language; even Mademoiselle Vanderschmeck, could not rival
Parelius, who lived in the solitary Bondegaard, on the shore of the
Isfjord. Parelius conversed with birds; he is said to have known their
language. On one occasion some peasants asked him, when he was in
another parish, away from home, what the crows hard by were
saying--“They say,” said Parelius, “that a bear has just killed one of
my oxen, and must go home.” He returned to verify his loss. Whilst
Parelius was from home one day, an avalanche from the precipice above,
destroyed his house. We were told he lived some fifty years ago.
Parelius is gone--the house is gone. Whether he was a native of
Veblungsnœs we cannot say. No record appears to have been made of this
eminent man, some account of his life, scanty though it be, may rescue
his name from oblivion.
The fjords of this coast are well stocked with fish, and the islands and
rocks with wild fowl. The eider ducks are numerous; their nests are made
on the ground, and the down is taken from the nest after it is placed
there by the bird. About half-a-pound of down is taken from each nest,
which is reduced to a residue of about a quarter-of-a-pound for sale or
use; a very small quantity of the down is sufficient to stuff a
coverlet; its wonderful lightness and warmth renders it extremely
valuable. There is now a law for the protection of the eider duck; they
may not be caught or killed from 15th April to 15th August.[70]
Fiva is said to have the best salmon fishing on the Rauma. We had a
fresh wind on the Fjord as we returned. Birch twigs are used as
fastenings for the boat sail instead of rope, in fact, the birch twigs,
or withes, are substituted for rope in every variety of way. After a
pleasant cruise we landed, and left our friend, and reached our camp
with an excellent appetite.
Our dinner consisted of soup, meat, and bread and butter. Esmeralda was
unwell and could not eat anything. Zachariah was still murmuring about
the churie (shut knife) no one had bought for him. He received a
lecture; the shadows of his future were forcibly set before him.
After dinner the “Lehnsmœnd’s” lady from Aak, and her two daughters came
to see the donkeys. A very beautiful bouquet of flowers she brought for
our acceptance. Lady Di Beauclerk, in her Journal,[71] speaks of the
beautiful flowers of Aak. Whilst our visitor and her daughters sat in
our tents, we sent for the donkeys, which were much admired. Zachariah
was presented with a box of ornaments before they left. So our visitors
came and went in succession during the evening, and our first idea of
strict seclusion, by camping in private ground, we found an illusory
dream.