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_TENT LIFE WITH
ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY._
[Illustration: CARL XV.
KING OF NORWAY AND SWEDEN.
OBIIT 18 SEPT. 1872.]
_TENT LIFE
WITH
ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY._
BY
HUBERT SMITH,
MEMBER OF THE ENGLISH ALPINE CLUB; NORSKE TURIST FORENING;
AND FELLOW OF THE HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF GREAT BRITAIN.
WITH
_FIVE FULL-PAGE ENGRAVINGS, THIRTY-ONE SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS,
AND MAP OF THE COUNTRY, SHOWING ROUTES_.
HENRY S. KING & CO.,
65, CORNHILL, & 12, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON.
1873.
[_The Right of Translation is reserved by the Author._]
In Memoriam.
DEDICATED
AS A SINCERE TRIBUTE
TO
HIS LATE MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY
CARL XV.
BY
THE KIND AND SPECIAL PERMISSION OF THIS
PRESENT MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY
OSCAR II.
KING OF NORWAY AND SWEDEN.
PREFACE.
We awoke one morning; our gipsies were gone; our camp was gone; no light
shining through as we lay in our tent. No freshness of the morning air;
no wafted perfume of fragrant wild flowers; no music of the waterfall in
the glen below. We were left to pursue the pathway of our journey alone.
Yet our notes _de voyage_ remained to us. Impressions caught on the
wayside of travel--written by the light of actual circumstance--we give
them to our readers. They are a true episode in a life.
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTION xxi
CHAPTER I.
Norway--Our gipsy tent--Tent fittings--Cooking apparatus--Commissariat--Gipsies’
tent--Bagage de luxe--Weight of baggage--Transit--Donkeys--Our
party--Esmeralda 1
CHAPTER II.
Gipsy equipment--Norwegian gipsies--Prœsten Eilert Sundt--The
Hull steamer--The tourist’s friend--Our gipsy song 11
CHAPTER III.
A friend’s misgiving--Dark forebodings--A sleepless night--The
railway station--The Albion--A philosopher--The street boy--Distinguished
travellers 19
CHAPTER IV.
England’s farewell--Summer tourists--The chevalier--Seafaring--A
gipsy reception--Change of plans--Norwegian pilot--The Birmingham
bagman--Inducement to authorship--Strange wills--A
sailor’s philosophy--Icelandic language--Prognostications 26
CHAPTER V.
A seaman’s adventures--The unfortunate tourist-An apt quotation--Freemasonry--Christiansand--Past
recollections--The Runic
stone--Overpayment--Two salmon fishermen--A traveller’s
curiosity--Norwegian snakes--Scenery--We are one--Golden
opinions 36
CHAPTER VI.
Mariner’s life--The evasive answer--A true presentiment--The King
of Norway and Sweden--The beautiful fjord--Gipsy music--A
custom-house difficulty--Another Freemason--Appropriate verses
Christiania--Horse money--17, Store Strandgade 46
CHAPTER VII.
The Victoria Hotel--The Gipsies’ friend--The passe-partout-Prœsten
Eilert Sundt--The Christiania railway--Our donkeys appreciated--Gipsy
spirit--The “tolk”--Norwegian money--Linguistic difficulties--Gipsy
authors--Gipsy numerals--Departure from
Christiania 54
CHAPTER VIII.
A Norwegian officer--Norwegian emigration--Eidsvold--The Skydskiftet--Quiet
retreat--Happy hours--Baiersk öl--Esmeralda’s
toilette--The transformation--Curious address--New acquaintance--Noah’s
engagement--Noah’s conquest--An ungrateful
visitor--A reluctant parting 64
CHAPTER IX.
Moderate bill--Provisions lost--We meet again--Gipsies in advance--Left
alone--A welcome telegram--Norwegian bath room--Singular
paintings--Once more farewell--The telegraph clerk--The
Mjösen Lake--The Dronningen--Ruined cathedral--Utilitarianism--Lillehammer--Once
more in camp 75
CHAPTER X.
Our first camp--Camp visitors--Gipsy music-Foreign tableau--Curious
observations--Preparations for departure--Early start--Laing’s
suggestions--The Gudbransdalen--The Hunnefos--The
Australian meat--Camp rules--The pair of gloves--Sudden
Shadows--Our talisman--New friends 89
CHAPTER XI.
Night alarm--The Puru Rawnee--Donkeys admired--Norwegian
ponies--Our gipsy life--Norwegian flowers--Wild forest--The
pipe of tobacco--Pictures of imagination--The crippled man--Camp
near Holmen--Noah’s self-denial--Wet night--Peasant
girls’ serenade--Zachariah’s gaiety--Lovely nature--Norwegian
newspaper--The mystery explained--Frokost spoilt 102
CHAPTER XII.
Unsuccessful fishing--A military officer--The _dernier ressort_--Our
gipsy reception--Interrupted toilette--Fête champêtre--Dancing
on the greensward--Tincture of cedar--The disappointment--The
Losna Vand--The kettle prop lost--Peasant children--Interesting
discussions--Writing under difficulties--The kindly
heart 118
CHAPTER XIII.
Wet travelling--Vodvang--Our Russian lamp--Swedish visitors--All
well--Our hobbinengree--The child of nature--Guitar songs--The
village beau--Merles gone--The musketos’ victory--More
rain--Scotch traveller--Timber floaters--Gipsies--Enraged
Englishman--The frightened skydskarl--Gipsies’ endurance--The
Listari commotion--Listad scenery 129
CHAPTER XIV.
A gorgio--Comfortable bondegaards--More speile--The lost key--Den
Asen toujours--Vegetable substitute--The goodlo discussion--Wives’
utility--Friendly peasants--Norwegian waltz--Gipsy
chaff--The dark woman--Anxious querists--Early visitors--Timid
woman--Gipsies appreciated--The charming post-mistress--The
mansion near Harpe Brö 145
CHAPTER XV.
The velocipede--Roadside halt--Lovely scenery--Disappointed
audience--The little gipsy--The lost pocket--The search--Gipsy
lamentation--Amused peasant girls--Norwegian honesty--The
pocket found--A noble heart--Pleasant voyageurs--Patrins--Storklevstad--Tambourine
lost--Norwegian honesty--Eccentric
visits--Interrogatory--The captain--The interview--The
village magnate--Meget godt--Esmeralda in camp--The last
visit--The moorland maiden 158
CHAPTER XVI.
Colonel Sinclair--Qvam church--Death of Sinclair--Monsieur le
Capitaine--The Highflyer--The Hedals--Romantic legend--Antique
mansion--The Kringelen--Kind reception--Warm welcome--The
broken tent-pole--The reindeer hunter--The
Rudane Fjelde--Gipsy-looking woman--More fish--Chiromancy
Esmeralda’s fortune--The handsome captain--His sporting adventure--Esmeralda’s
gift--Our soirée dansante--Gipsies’ glee 174
CHAPTER XVII.
Gipsies’ affection--Laurgaard adieu--Beautiful gorges--Onward ever--Esmeralda’s
Irish song--Dovre--Friendly travellers--The
Landhandelri--The Herr Tofte--King’s visit--Our night camp--Night
disturbance--Kindness to animals--Our beautiful
bouquet--Snehætten Fjeld--Dombaas--Comfortable situation--Wild
scenery--Opportune visit--Illusory hope 190
CHAPTER XVIII.
The new tent pole--What is indigestion?--Peasants at camp--A new
friend--Holaker station--Norwegian honesty--Lœsje Vand--The
tetteramengry--An unsolved mystery--The gipsy collapse--Good
advice--Interest in donkeys--A mountain district--No
church bells--The boy’s questions--The Kjölen Fjeldene 202
CHAPTER XIX.
Esmeralda at the lake--Our cadeau--The visitors--Disappointment--An
Adonis--The silent visit--The old mill--A Norwegian fox--The
Puru Rawnee’s fall--The forest scene--Zachariah’s torment--Under
discipline--Music in the forest--Distant admirers--The
English hunter’s gift--Our gipsies fishing--The militia
camp--Silent visitor--Ornamental fladbröd--A forest concert 213
CHAPTER XX.
Noah unwell--The tine--New scenes--The leper--Hasty departure--Lesjevœrks
Vand--Well met--Agreeable wanderers--Specialty
of travel--Delicious trout--Lake scenery--Norwegian postman--Night
visitor--More tourists--Molmen church 227
CHAPTER XXI.
The Rauma--A lofty climb--More rain--The forest walk--Tent life--Peasant
fête--Norwegian dancing--Zachariah’s ride--The
wood carvings--A psalmodion--Stueflaaten--The Romsdal--Magnificent
scenery--English spoken 237
CHAPTER XXII.
The Dontind--Ormein--Mountain road--Our bivouac--Delighted
visitor--The water elf--Excited gipsies--Tage en Stol--Norwegian
girls--Sunday on the Rauma--Carriole travelling--Coming
to grief--“Spille” a little--Esmeralda’s birthday--The
Norwegian climate--The Sjiriaglns--Uncomfortable bed--The
large ant 248
CHAPTER XXIII.
Musical peasant--Cascades--The leaning-stone--The serious peasant--Zachariah
ill--No ventilation--The Magician’s Peaks--The
Mangehöe--“Ramulous”--Romantic valley--Agreeable visitors--The
serenade--Future route--Horgheim--Rip van Winkle 261
CHAPTER XXIV.
The invalid--Restive donkeys--Fiva--Aak--Veblungsnœs--The
Norwegian farmer--The grassy knoll--A Norwegian town--The
fjord’s shore--The Veblungsnœs’ baths--Herr Solberg--Homme
galant--Musical conversazione--Gipsy music 273
CHAPTER XXV.
Purchases--Zachariah’s trouble--Esmeralda’s photograph--The kiöd--Price
of meat--The yachtsmen--The three peaks--The spirit-world--Frost-bites--Ultima
Thule--Esmeralda galvanised--The
fjord--Heen Kirke--Parelius--Eider ducks--Beautiful
bouquets 285
CHAPTER XXVI.
Our guide--To the mountains--Mystic light--The photographs--The
“Claymore” yacht--Norwegian gipsies--Singular race--Occupations--Gipsy
burials--Romantic love--Predestination--The
bondegaard--The high demand--Esmeralda’s souvenir 297
CHAPTER XXVII.
Adieu, Aak--Romsdalshorn--Troldtinderne--Fladmark--Young
Norwegian ladies--Our fair visitors--A night scene--Morning
meal--Exhausted peasants--Esmeralda’s compliment--A gipsy
cuisine--How gipsies sleep--Our guide arrives--The invisible
bather--The race--The river Gröna 307
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Botanising--Esmeralda lost--Found again--The Eagle--Mountain
difficulties--Mountain bivouac--Esmeralda ill--Ole’s bed--Hotel
bills--Rough route--Donkeys in snow--The Puru Rawnee
down--The Ny sœter--Gipsy discussion--The Englishman’s
house--Hospitality--Norwegian names--Fillingshö--Large lake 319
CHAPTER XXIX.
The peasants’ wood--Skeaker--Our fair visitor--Esmeralda’s indignation--The
gipsy hornpipe--The fate of Ezekiel--Feeble
advocacy--The Rankny rackly--The Otta Vand 332
CHAPTER XXX.
The wasps’ nest--Lom--Kind friends--Songs of Björnsen--The
Prœsten’s ministration--The repulsed student--Beautiful valley--The
two artists--The Bœver Elven--Rödsheim--The ravine--The
lost stardy--Ascent of Galdhöpiggen--The highest mountain
in Norway--The night ascent--The dome of snow--The
sunrise 340
CHAPTER XXXI.
The reindeer’s fate--Desolate scene--Several ascents--The frightened
peasants--A coat lost--Esmeralda’s views--Absent treasures--Ole
re-engaged--A new kettle prop--The handsome artist--Comfortable
station--Adieu, Rödsheim--Our excellent guide--Crossing
the bridge--Zachariah’s escape 352
CHAPTER XXXII.
The Elv Sœter--A mountaineer--The Ytterdal Sœter--To make gröd--The
gröd stick--Evening concert--A wild night--The waterfall--Mountain
glaciers--The Lera Elv--Camp by a glacier--Nomadic
happiness--A gipsy maëlstrom--Insect life 363
CHAPTER XXXIII.
The Virgin Peak--Esmeralda in the Lera--A dripping Nereid--Heavy
clouds--The Church Mountain--Wild reindeer--Where’s
the tea?--Singular glacier--Valley of red sandstone--The
Hunter’s Cave--The Utladal Stöl--The Mumpley Valley--Flödsgröd--A
mountain stöl--A rough path--The Puru Rawnee’s
escape--The narrow bridge 374
CHAPTER XXXIV.
A difficult crossing--Again en route--Skögadal Sœter--Sœter accommodation--Splendid
scenery--The Skögadals Elv--The mysterious
bone--Mountain exploration--The pack horses--A
slippery floor--Music in the Sœter--Flœskedal Stöl--The Mörk
Fos--Magnificent fall--The cliff’s edge--The iris--All pay and
no comfort--A reindeer shot--The deserted farm--A mountain
shadow 389
CHAPTER XXXV.
The Meisgrie--We cross a river--The slippery rock--An active guide--The
carrier’s aid--The lame horse--Melkedalstinderne--The
stony way--The Nedrevand--Ole’s night quarters--The lake by
moonlight--Early rising--Eisbod on the Bygdin Lake--The
poet’s house--Vinje, the poet--The poetical mortgage--Pleasant
acquaintance--Old Norwegian poetry--The reindeer hunter--Esmeralda
condoned 404
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Lake Tyen--The Tourist Club châlet--Lortwick Sœter--Lake driftwood--A
cold morning--A cheap meal--Thunder in the air--Sunshine
again--The separation--The gallant Ole farewell--To
Christiania--Energy always--Push on--The Bergen road--The
violinist--One dollar more--Picturesque scene 420
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Camp on Lille Mjösen--The Skjyri Fjeld--An acquaintance from
Eisbod--Camp rules confirmed--Our gipsy Noah--English
spoken--Singular stone--Öiloe station--Our friend from Eisbod--Artist
souvenirs--Zachariah’s sport--Fast travelling--Harvest
time--Secluded camp--Able pleading--The Stee Station--Obliging
hostess--Tether rope lost--The kindly welcome--An
Englishman’s wish--An open-air concert--Esmeralda’s
flowers--Adieu, but remembered--A mid-day rest 433
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
An English fisherman--The haunted mill--The tourist’s purchase--Noah’s
good fortune--The Strand Fjord--A woman’s curiosity--The
heroine of our book--A Norwegian seaman--The mistaken
mansion--The Aurdal church--Frydenlund Station--A roadside
halt--The appreciated gift--The severe young lady--The kind-hearted
peasant--Krœmmermoen--Impulse and reason 449
CHAPTER XXXIX.
The gipsy signal--Our Australian meat--The fair poetess--Our
friend from Eisbod ill--The Rye’s unwell--The Lehnsmœnd of
Bang--The ferryman and son--We cross to Beina--Tatersprog--A
kind family--Storsveen Station--Secluded valley--A
tourist lels us--Esmeralda’s adventure--The peasant women’s
song--Sorum Station--Tents pitched by a lagoon--Nœs--No
horseboat--Impromptu horseboat--How we got across--A river
scene 460
CHAPTER XL.
We leave the Beina--The Lille pige--Any port in a storm--The
fairies’ visit--The Spirilen--Ytre Aadalen Val--Large bondegaard--Heen
woodland camp--Evening visitors--The Hönefos--Intelligent
postmaster--Norderhoug church--Halt near Vik--The
gipsies’ political philosophy--Noah and the philanthropist
Steens Fjord--The Krogkleven--Beautiful gorge--Camp near
the King’s View 477
CHAPTER XLI.
Summer waning--Norwegian scenery--Splendid views--The cross
fire--Sorte Död--Romantic camp--Mandy’s a Rye--The tourist’s
dog--The Hobbenengree’s surprise--The Baron at Bœrums Verk--Snake
killed near our tent--Our last night in camp--Adieu,
camp life 490
CHAPTER XLII.
Christiania--Generous offer--Advice we do not take--The paper-viken
fishermen--Christophersen’s--Norway, farewell--Donkeys’
accommodation--Want of feeling--Our steward--The gipsies’
friends--The Spanish courier--The literary American--The
gipsies’ mal de mer--The donkeys in a smoke room--The lost
necklace--England’s shore--To our readers 500
CHAPTER XLIII.
Alluring promises--Compliment to Englishmen--True sketches of
gipsy life--The gipsies’ origin--Yet a mystery--Esmeralda--Noah
and Zachariah--Before the curtain--The end 511
APPENDIX I. 517
APPENDIX II. 527
APPENDIX III. 529
APPENDIX IV. 532
APPENDIX V. 538
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
⁂ The engravings are by Edward Whymper, author of “Scrambles
amongst the Alps,” and have been taken from sketches made by the
author during his wanderings in Norway, or from photographs
obtained by him specially for this work.
PAGE
1. His late Most Gracious Majesty Carl XV., King of Norway and
Sweden (_Full page, facing Title_)
2. Breaking up Camp; Gipsy pocket, and loaded donkey 14
3. The gipsies’ Norwegian song--ornamental bordure 17 and 18
4. The Chevalier 28
5. We are one 44
6. Prœsten Eilert Sundt 56
7. Norwegian fence 78
8. Norwegian bath-room 80
9. Jeg maa gaae til bunden, I must go to the bottom 81
10. Der gaae er dampen, There goes the steamer 82
11. Peasant girls’ serenade 112
12. Ornamental fladbröd 225
13. Primitive weighing machine 244
14. Camp at Leaning Stone, Sjiriaglns 262
15. Troldtinderne, Magicians’ or Witches’
Peaks (_Full page, facing_) 271
16. The English gipsies’ camp at Veblungsnœs (_Ditto_) 287
17. Veblungsnœs and church (_Ditto_) 299
18. The Romsdalshorn (_Ditto_) 307
19. “Now look at these chokas!!!” 356
20. Gröd stick, spoon, and bowl, Leirdalen 367
21. Norwegian birchwood crupper 372
22. Kirken (Church Mountain), from Gravdal 377
23. The ice cliff, Storbeatind Glacier 381
24. Utladal Stöl, Mumply Valley 385
25. Lusehaug Bro, Utladal: restive donkeys 390
26. View of Melkedalstind from the Valley of Skögadal,
Skögadals Elv 406
27. Melkedals Nedre Vand, with gipsy camp on the lake shore 411
28. Norwegian Tourist Club Châlet, Tvindehougen, Lake Tyen 421
29. The Norwegian violin, Skogstad 431
30. Norwegian maiden’s belt, Öiloe 439
31. Esmeralda 499
32. The last camp of the English gipsies in Norway,
Christiania Fjord 504
33. Ole Halvorsen of Rödsheim, our guide 514
34. Last group. Farewell 515
35. The author’s final Vignette 516
INTRODUCTION.
“Nullus dolor est quem non longinquitas temporis minuat, ac molliat.”
There is no grief time does not lessen and soften.
Since the succeeding pages were written, Norway and Sweden have mourned
the death of their King, Carl XV., at Malmoe, on the 18th September,
1872.
The dedication of this work is, therefore, with the kind and special
permission of his present Majesty, King Oscar II., inscribed “In
Memoriam.” Thus the work opens to the reader with a shadow of
melancholy; for, in our experience, few kings have had the love and
affection of their subjects in a greater degree.
One memorable event marked the close of his late Majesty’s reign, as if
to illumine the last sands of the hour-glass of his life--the millennial
period of the unity of Norway as one kingdom was accomplished on the
19th July, 1872.
A thousand years had elapsed since Harald Haarfager (the Fair Hair)
gained the battle of Hafsfjord, and united Norway under one crown.[1]
At Hafsfjord, by a strange coincidence, King Harald Haarfager, having
reigned, it is said, from about 861 to 931, was buried, according to the
ancient sagas, near the town of Haugesund, not far from the scene of his
memorable victory, the last of a series of conquests which gave to
Norway one king.
The battle of Hafsfjord also accomplished King Harald’s vow, and gave to
him the hand of Gyda, the handsome daughter of Eric, King of Hordaland,
who, in answer to his proposals, had said, she would never throw herself
away, even to take a king for a husband, who had only a few districts to
rule over.[2]
The obelisk of granite, erected near Haugesund, on the grave of Harald
Haarfager, to commemorate the event, is seventy feet high. Surrounding
its base, twenty-one pillars, eight feet high, are inscribed with the
names of the twenty-one petty kingdoms, into which ancient Norway was
formerly divided. Bronzed reliefs on the pedestal record that Harald
Haarfager is buried beneath, and that the monument was erected one
thousand years after he had consolidated Norway into one kingdom.
At a grand National Jubilee Festival, at Haugesund, on the 19th July,
1872, his present Majesty the King of Norway and Sweden,[3] then Prince
Oscar, with a large assemblage of the people of Norway, inaugurated the
monument.
The day was fine, and the associations of a thousand years carried the
mind back through the far distance of time to the battle of Hafsfjord,
when, to apply the words of “Sigvat the Scald,”--
Loud was the battle-storm there,
When the King’s banner flamed in air,
The King beneath his banner stands,
And the battle he commands.
His late Majesty was also a poet and an artist. Two interesting volumes
of the late King’s poems, entitled “En Samling Dikter” (a collection of
poems), and “Smärre Dikter” (short poems) are the scintillations of a
bright and imaginative mind--“Till Sverige” (To Sweden), “Borgruinen”
(the Castle Ruins), “Fjerran” (Afar), “Ensamheten” (solitude),
“Trosbekännelse” (Confession of Faith), “I drömmen” (I Dream), “Hvar bor
Friden” (Where dwelleth Peace), “Kallan” (The Fountain), “Ziguenerskan”
(The Gipsy Girl), with other poems form the Innehål, or contents of the
“Smärre Dikter.” The larger volume--“En Samling Dikter”--includes “Heidi
Gylfes Dotter” (Heidi Gylfe’s Daughter), “En Viking Gasaga” (A Viking
Saga)[4] “Hafsfrun” (The Mermaid), “Tre Natter” (Three Nights), and
several other poems.
The full-paged portrait of his late Majesty Carl XV. is an excellent
likeness. He was cast in Nature’s most perfect mould; whilst his mind
had true greatness and noble-hearted chivalry.
It is beautifully engraved by the author of “Scrambles Amongst the
Alps,” indeed, this and the engravings illustrating this work, which
have all been taken from original sketches of the author, or photographs
obtained specially for the work, are by Mr. Edward Whymper,[5] to whom
the author is much indebted for his prompt attention, when a very short
space of time could only be allowed for their completion.
An additional interest will also be felt by the reader in knowing that
the work is true, even to the names of the gipsies.
So must close our Introduction; and, as we look back to our tented
wanderings, they seem as a bright summer’s day, whose sun, setting on
the horizon of our fate, reflects itself, though with imperfect gleams,
within this book, whilst the day is gone for ever!
THE AUTHOR.
_7th May, 1873._
THE GIPSY GIRL.
Passing, I saw her as she stood beside
A lonely stream between two barren wolds;
Her loose vest hung in rudely-gathered folds
On her swart bosom, which in maiden pride
Pillowed a string of pearls; among her hair
Twined the light blue bell and the stonecrop gay;
And not far thence the small encampment lay,
Curling its wreathèd smoke into the air.
She seemed a child of some sun-favoured clime;
So still, so habited to warmth and rest;
And in my wayward musings on past time,
When my thought fills with treasured memories,
That image nearest borders on the blest
Creations of pure art that never dies.
DEAN ALFORD.
[Illustration:
MAP
Showing the Route and Camping grounds
of the
ENGLISH GIPSIES
through
NORWAY.
Henry S. King & Co, 65 Cornhill, London.]
TENT LIFE WITH ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY.
CHAPTER I.
“The best books are records of the writer’s own experiences of
what he himself has seen or known, or--best of all--has done.
The writing then becomes naturally concrete, perspicuous, a
mirror of the fact; and whether it be a book for the world and
for ages, or for nations and generations, there is this common
to them all, that they are genuine records of genuine things,
and throw light on the subject.”--N. P. WILLIS.
NORWAY--OUR GIPSY TENT--TENT FITTINGS--COOKING
APPARATUS--COMMISSARIAT--GIPSIES’ TENT--BAGAGE DE LUXE--WEIGHT
OF BAGGAGE--TRANSIT--DONKEYS--OUR PARTY--ESMERALDA.
The picturesque and lovely scenes of Norway offered many inducements for
our campaign. The peculiar advantages of tent life would enable us to
wander in its wildest Dals. Its beautiful fjelds, fjords, and fosses
could be seen at our ease. We might bivouac in the silent forest; we
could sleep in its lonely glens, and wander in its deepest recesses,
independent of the chance accommodation of the “gjœstgiver-gaard,” or
the more doubtful comfort of the mountain “sœter.” The result of a
former visit had not been without its practical utility, and the tent
carried the day.
In previous travels we had used many kinds of tents, including Mr.
Whymper’s very useful Alpine Tent. For this campaign we had a new one
made, such as gipsies use. All experience inclined us to adopt this form
of tent as the most comfortable.[6] It was made by gipsies, whom we had
often befriended in our search after gipsy lore,--and who now no longer
regarded us with distrust, as belonging to the kairengroes
(house-dwellers). When it was completed, my people declared it was the
best they had ever seen. A stout back pole, with strong pliable raniers
or rods, fitted into it, and a cover made of two pairs of light gray
blankets, of strong but fine texture, sewn together, with a broad edging
of scarlet bocking, gave it an appearance which the gipsies declared to
be perfection.
The interior fittings of our tent were not neglected. One of Edgington’s
waterproofs costing twenty-five shillings, was laid on the ground as a
substratum. A handsome carpet, of strong but light material and warm
colouring, was cut to the size of the tent as usually pitched, and then
neatly bound with scarlet braid by my housekeeper, who made nearly
everything used for the expedition. When the carpet was placed on the
waterproof rug, it formed an excellent floor to the tent. Our large
railway-rug, which had been with us all round the world, was still
serviceable. An extra rug for use if necessary, and two air pillows
covered with scarlet flannel, completed the bed accommodation. A blue
partition-curtain, with broad yellow braid artistically elaborated in
zigzag pattern, to be suspended _à volonté_ from the tent raniers for
privacy and seclusion, left nothing more to be desired. We had not yet
sunk so low in effeminacy as to use beds, though there are instances of
gipsies in England who have descended to that melancholy state.
It was necessary that our _batterie de cuisine_ should be as simple as
possible. In the first place we had our kettle prop which had done duty
in camp life in the previous year. A kettle prop is a stout bar of iron
bent at one end so as to have a projecting portion for hanging the
kettle upon to boil water. The other end of the prop is sharpened so as
to make holes in the ground to fix the tent raniers or rods into. (The
three stakes joined together at the top, with a large witch’s caldron
suspended over the fire, as seen in many representations of gipsy life,
have now passed away with the gipsies’ scarlet cloaks once so
fashionable.) We had our large fish kettle for boiling anything; our tin
can for boiling and making tea for four persons; two larger tin cans for
boiling or fetching milk or water, all with lids; two large zinc bowls;
four smaller soup bowls, fitting one within the other; a round tin with
lid to hold three pounds of butter; a quart tin can with handle; two
sets of tin pannikins, four each set, fitting one within the other;[7]
eight pewter plates; seven knives and six forks; eight spoons; a tin
salt box; a tin pepper box; a sardine box opener; a frying pan, with
handle to remove; a tin box containing the exact measure of tea for four
persons. This was very useful, not only for economy, but in wet
weather,--the box, being filled in the tent, could be carried in the
hand,--in readiness for the boiling water. A Russian lamp; a small axe;
two tin boxes of wax lucifer matches, and eight small cloths for
cleaning, completed our _service de ménage_. All the articles enumerated
could be conveniently put into the fish-kettle, except the two large
cans, the two large bowls, the pewter plates, the frying-pan, and one or
two other articles. These were all placed at one end of a bag called the
kettle-bag, tied in the middle; our bags of tea and sugar, &c., for
present use, being placed at the other end, ready to be slung over the
donkey for transit.[8]
Our commissariat was selected with a care commensurate to the
requirements of the expedition and of the four hungry _voyageurs_ to be
fed.
Our provisions were procured at Hudson Brothers, Ludgate Hill, London
(with whom we had before had dealings), and were all we could desire for
quality. Our purchase included 28lbs. of Australian meat (costing 7½_d._
per lb.)--which for the first time, we ventured, with some hesitation,
to take--two hams, some bacon, a dozen boxes of sardines, 2 cheeses, a
number of jars of Liebig’s essence of meat, some tins of potted meats,
2 tins of biscuits,--some of which were college biscuits,--rice,
oat-meal, pea flour, beans, &c.; which, together with 12lbs. of tea from
Messrs. Phillips, King William Street, in small bags of 3lbs. each, were
placed in a large stout “pocket” as far as space would allow, and then
packed in a wooden case, and forwarded to the care of Messrs. Wilson &
Co., Hull, ready for the steamer. The weight of the provisions when
sent, was 150lbs. These articles, with 30lbs. of sugar in six small bags
of 5lbs. each, which we had before forwarded to Hull, completed our
stock of provisions for the expedition.
The gipsies brought their own tent rods; we found blankets for the tent
cover. The gipsies’ tent cover is formed of two blankets, fastened with
pin thorns over their tent frame of raniers or rods. They had for use
one of Edgington’s waterproofs and two double blankets.
We also took a railway rug ornamented with foxes’ heads, which we often
used with the aid of our Alpine stocks, as a balk to keep off the wind,
and to close in the space between our tents when we required more room
or shelter. We had, besides, a very large but exceedingly light
waterproof sheeting, purchased from Edmiston, made to loop over our
tents, so as to enlarge them considerably and protect us from heavy
rain. The blanket covers of our tents were not waterproof; and this
waterproof sheeting, which only weighed 4½ lbs., was invaluable. When we
were resting during the day, it effectually protected our provisions,
baggage, and ourselves from the heavy showers of rain which sometimes
occurred during our wanderings.
Our additional baggage consisted of one salmon rod, three trout rods,
four Alpine stocks, two long ropes for tethering the animals, a fishing
basket, a tin box with padlock, a musical box, a moderate allowance of
clothes, a small tin of blacking with brushes, hair brushes and combs,
soap, towels, pocket mirrors, writing-case, maps, stout straps, books
(guide books and others), fishing tackle, &c., two courier bags with
locks, and a plaid haversack, which contained a small case of
medicaments for use when we were beyond all chance of medical
advice--for, although fresh air is peculiarly health-giving, there were
times and seasons when we had to officiate as the “cushty drabengro”
(good doctor) of the party. We had also in this plaid bag a
silver-mounted glass flask of imposing appearance, which was kept filled
with Brændeviin, to be poured out into a thick-set, solid-looking
drinking glass, that had been purchased, once upon a time, at Épernay,
in France; it was fitted to stand the hard usage of this world, even to
receiving libations of brændeviin instead of champagne. The glass is
still unbroken, and ready to do duty in another campaign; and when we
look at it, our brain becomes puzzled as to the number of bold
Norwegians whose lips it has touched as they quaffed its contents to
_gamle Norge_.
The weight of baggage is given in the following divisions:--
The kettle and articles packed into it weighed 10½ lbs.; bowls and
pewter plates, packed separately, 6¾ lbs.; the frying pan, 3½ lbs.; our
boiling can for making tea for our party, four in number, 1¼ lbs.; our
large boiling can, for a larger number than four persons, weighed 1¾
lbs.; the large iron kettle-prop, 6 lbs. 6 ozs., making the total
weight of cooking apparatus and _service de ménage_, 30 lbs. 2 ozs.
The tent rods and pole weighed 14½ lbs.; the tent blanket, cover, and
partition-curtain, 17½ lbs.; large waterproof siphonia cover, 4½ lbs.;
small spade to dig trenches round tent in wet weather, 1 lb. 15 ozs.;
total weight, 38 lbs. 7 ozs.
One of Edgington’s waterproof rugs, the tent carpet, two rugs, and two
air-pillows, weighed, together, 20 lbs.
Our large tent and fittings, with cooking apparatus and _service de
ménage_, therefore weighed 88 lbs. 9 ozs.; and with books, fishing-rods,
clothes, the provisions, and other baggage, made a total of about 360
lbs. weight, which allowed 120 lbs. for each donkey to carry.
The method of transit for baggage of all kinds, that impediment to rapid
movement, required careful consideration. We had 360 lbs. weight of
baggage to carry across the sea, to take with us through the valleys of
Norway, to convey over mountains, and rugged paths, across rivers and
shaky wooden bridges. The kind of animal suited to our expedition had
also to be considered; ponies and mules had their claims. Excellent
ponies might be purchased in Norway upon our arrival, but then we had
the risk of delay. If we took mules they were oftentimes vicious and
troublesome. At last we commissioned a gipsy to purchase three strong
donkeys, to be specially selected for the purpose. It is said in one of
Dickens’s works, that no one ever saw a dead donkey or a dead
postboy--and this inspired additional hope that the animals would
survive the journey. We had no reason to regret our choice. Donkeys will
endure want of food better than even mules or horses; they are patient,
quiet, and tractable; they soon take to the camp, and seldom stray far.
The weight would be about 120 lbs. each, decreasing as they progressed
on their journey. A strong donkey has been known to carry for a short
distance, 4 cwt., but this is exceptional; 200 lbs. for a journey on
good roads they can manage without difficulty; for rough mountain roads
and paths, this load ought to be reduced to less than 100 lbs. Donkeys
were much valued in early times; and in New South Wales they were
recently more expensive than horses. Fortunately our gipsy was able to
procure them at a moderate rate; and in a short time I was the
possessor--to use gipsy language--of three “cushty merles” (good
donkeys). They were to travel with the gipsies’ camp until we were ready
to start, and so become used to camp-life. Very good ones they were:[9]
Content with the thistle they tramped o’er the road,
And never repined at the weight of the load.
It was necessary for the success of the expedition, that the party
should be composed of not less than four; but one who had before
accompanied our wanderings, was unable to come. Our preparations were
partly made, and his loss as a fellow _compagnon de voyage_ was
irreparable. Skilful in designing and making a tent, full of resource
in camp life, never without an expedient to overcome a difficulty, a
sketcher from nature, cheerful under all exposure, temperate in all his
pleasures, ever ready with his song and guitar; at eveningtide, by the
flickering embers of the camp fire, by the silent lake, or in the
mountain _cwm_, or lonely glen--his loss was indeed to be regretted. His
lithe figure, and luxuriant raven-black hair, shading in heavy tresses
his ample forehead, jet-black eyes, and thoughtful countenance bronzed
by exposure, strongly resembled the true gipsy type. By other gipsies
whom we had chanced to meet, he had been thought of better gipsy blood
than our own gipsy people.
Our right hand seemed gone. As we lounged into the gipsies’ camp, there
was no sun to illumine our way to the north. The party _must_ be made up
to four; but no other friend would venture on the exposure of a camp
life in a foreign country. The romantic scenery, the novelty and charm
of a nomadic life in nature’s wildest scenes, completely failed to
allure them from their comfortable homes.
So the party was to be made up to four. The Rye was not to go without a
sufficient escort to take care of him. Tall Noah would pitch the tents
and pack the animals. Esmeralda, as the forlorn hope, would do all the
cooking, and undertake the arrangements of the tent, which our friend
had beforetime done with our joint assistance. Zacharia, the
“boshomengro” (violin-player), would again obtain water, and make the
fire. They would each have one animal under their charge. With this
arrangement we were obliged to content ourselves. Esmeralda, who was
nearly sixteen years old, was tall, spare, and active, and wonderfully
strong for her age. She had dark hair, and eyes full of fathomless fire.
Zacharia had certain nervous misgivings about being chopped up by a bear
in his tent some night; tigers and lions were also inquired after; but,
all being settled, there was no flinching, and our gipsies were ready on
the day named.