CHAPTER X. BÊTE-NI-PIÉ.

I.

St. Pierre is in one respect fortunate beyond many tropical cities;--she

has scarcely any mosquitoes, although there are plenty of mosquitoes

in other parts of Martinique, even in the higher mountain villages. The

flood of bright water that pours perpetually through all her streets,

renders her comparatively free from the pest;--nobody sleeps under a

mosquito bar.

Nevertheless, St. Pierre is not exempt from other peculiar plagues of

tropical life; and you cannot be too careful about examining your bed

before venturing to lie down, and your clothing before you dress;--for

various disagreeable things might be hiding in them: a spider large as a

big crab, or a scorpion or a _mabouya_ or a centipede,--or certain large

ants whose bite burns like the pricking of a red-hot needle. No one who

has lived in St. Pierre is likely to forget the ants.... There are three

or four kinds in every house;--the _fourmi fou_ (mad ant), a little

speckled yellowish creature whose movements are so rapid as to delude

the vision; the great black ant which allows itself to be killed before

it lets go what it has bitten; the venomous little red ant, which is

almost too small to see; and the small black ant which does not bite at

all,--are usually omnipresent, and appear to dwell together in

harmony. They are pests in kitchens, cupboards, and safes; but they are

scavengers. It is marvellous to see them carrying away the body of

a great dead roach or centipede,--pulling and pushing together like

trained laborers, and guiding the corpse over obstacles or around them

with extraordinary skill.... There was a time when ants almost destroyed

the colony,--in 1751. The plantations, devastated by them are described

by historians as having looked as if desolated by fire. Underneath the

ground in certain places, layers of their eggs two inches deep were

found extending over acres. Infants left unwatched in the cradle for a

few hours were devoured alive by them. Immense balls of living ants

were washed ashore at the same time on various parts of the coast (a

phenomenon repeated within the memory of creoles now living in the

north-east parishes). The Government vainly offered rewards for the best

means of destroying the insects; but the plague gradually disappeared as

it came.

None of these creatures can be prevented from entering a dwelling;--you

may as well resign yourself to the certainty of meeting with them from

time to time. The great spiders (with the exception of those which are

hairy) need excite no alarm or disgust;--indeed they are suffered to

live unmolested in many houses, partly owing to a belief that they bring

good-luck, and partly because they destroy multitudes of those enormous

and noisome roaches which spoil whatever they cannot eat. The scorpion

is less common; but it has a detestable habit of lurking under beds; and

its bite communicates a burning fever. With far less reason, the mabouya

is almost equally feared. It is a little lizard about six inches long,

and ashen-colored;--it haunts only the interior of houses, while the

bright-green lizards dwell only upon the roofs. Like other reptiles of

the same order, the mabouya can run over or cling to polished surfaces;

and there is a popular belief that if frightened, it will leap at one's

face or hands and there fasten itself so tightly that it cannot be

dislodged except by cutting it to pieces. Moreover, it's feet are

supposed to have the power of leaving certain livid and ineffaceable

marks upon the skin of the person to whom it attaches itself:--_ça ka

ba ou lota_, say the colored people. Nevertheless, there is no creature

more timid and harmless than the mabouya.

But the most dreaded and the most insolent invader of domestic peace is

the centipede. The water system of the city banished the mosquito; but

it introduced the centipede into almost every dwelling. St. Pierre has a

plague of centipedes. All the covered drains, the gutters, the crevices

of fountain-basins and bathing-basins, the spaces between floor and

ground, shelter centipedes. And the _bête à-mille-pattes_ is the terror

of the barefooted population:--scarcely a day passes that some child or

bonne or workman is not bitten by the creature.

The sight of a full-grown centipede is enough to affect a strong set

of nerves. Ten to eleven inches is the average length of adults; but

extraordinary individuals much exceeding this dimension may be sometimes

observed in the neighborhood of distilleries (_rhommeries_) and

sugar-refineries. According to age, the color of the creature varies

from yellowish to black;--the younger ones often have several different

tints; the old ones are uniformly jet-black, and have a carapace of

surprising toughness,--difficult to break. If you tread, by accident or

design, upon the tail, the poisonous head will instantly curl back and

bite the foot through any ordinary thickness of upper-leather.

As a general rule the centipede lurks about the court-yards,

foundations, and drains by preference; but in the season of heavy rains

he does not hesitate to move upstairs, and make himself at home in

parlors and bed-rooms. He has a provoking habit of nestling in your

_moresques_ or your _chinoises_,--those wide light garments you put on

before taking your siesta or retiring for the night. He also likes to

get into your umbrella,--an article indispensable in the tropics; and

you had better never open it carelessly. He may even take a notion to

curl himself up in your hat, suspended on the wall. (I have known a

trigonocephalus to do the same thing in a country-house). He has also a

singular custom of mounting upon the long trailing dresses (douillettes)

worn by Martinique women,--and climbing up very swiftly and lightly to

the wearer's neck, where the prickling of his feet first betrays his

presence. Sometimes he will get into bed with you and bite you, because

you have not resolution enough to lie perfectly still while he is

tickling you.... It is well to remember before dressing that merely

shaking a garment may not dislodge him;--you must examine every part

very patiently,--particularly the sleeves of a coat and the legs of

pantaloons.

The vitality of the creature is amazing. I kept one in a bottle without

food or water for thirteen weeks, at the end of which time it remained

active and dangerous as ever. Then I fed it with living insects,

which it devoured ravenously;--beetles, roaches, earthworms, several

_lepismaoe_, even one of the dangerous-looking millepedes, which have a

great resemblance in outward structure to the centipede, but a thinner

body, and more numerous limbs,--all seemed equally palatable to the

prisoner.... I knew an instance of one, nearly a foot long, remaining in

a silk parasol for more than four months, and emerging unexpectedly

one day, with aggressiveness undiminished, to bite the hand that had

involuntarily given it deliverance.

In the city the centipede has but one natural enemy able to cope with

him,--the hen! The hen attacks him with delight, and often swallows him,

head first, without taking the trouble to kill him. The cat hunts him,

but she is careful never to put her head near him;--she has a trick of

whirling him round and round upon the floor so quickly as to stupefy

him: then, when she sees a good chance, she strikes him dead with her

claws. But if you are fond of your cat you will let her run no risks, as

the bite of a large centipede might have very bad results for your pet.

Its quickness of movement demands all the quickness of even the cat for

self-defence.... I know of men who have proved themselves able to seize

a fer-de-lance by the tail, whirl it round and round, and then flip it

as you would crack a whip,--whereupon the terrible head flies off; but I

never heard of anyone in Martinique daring to handle a living centipede.

There are superstitions concerning the creature which have a good effect

in diminishing his tribe. If you kill a centipede, you are sure

to receive money soon; and even if you dream of killing one it

is good-luck. Consequently, people are glad of any chance to kill

centipedes,--usually taking a heavy stone or some iron utensil for the

work;--a wooden stick is not a good weapon. There is always a little

excitement when a _bête-ni-pié_ (as the centipede is termed in the

patois) exposes itself to death; and you may often hear those who kill

it uttering a sort of litany of abuse with every blow, as if addressing

a human enemy:--"_Quitté moin tchoué ou, maudi!--quitté moin tchoué

ou, scelerat!--quitté moin tchoué ou, Satan!--quitté moin tchoué

ou, abonocio!_" etc. (Let me kill you, accursed! scoundrel! Satan!

abomination!)

The patois term for the centipede is not a mere corruption of the French

_bête-à-mille-pattes_. Among a population of slaves, unable to read or

write, [48] there were only the vaguest conceptions of numerical values;

and the French term bête-à-mille-pattes was not one which could appeal

to negro imagination. The slaves themselves invented an equally vivid

name, _bête-anni-pié_ (the Beast-which-is-all-feet); _anni_ in creole

signifying "only," and in such a sense "all." Abbreviated by subsequent

usage to _bête-'ni-pié_, the appellation has amphibology;--for there are

two words _ni_ in the patois, one signifying "to have," and the other

"naked." So that the creole for a centipede might be translated in three

ways,--"the Beast-which-is-all-feet"; or, "the Naked-footed Beast"; or,

with fine irony of affirmation, "the Beast-which-has-feet."

II.

What is the secret of that horror inspired by the centipede?... It

is but very faintly related to our knowledge that the creature is

venomous;--the results of the bite are only temporary swelling and a

brief fever;--it is less to be feared than the bite of other tropical

insects and reptiles which never inspire the same loathing by their

aspect. And the shapes of venomous creatures are not always shapes of

ugliness. The serpent has elegance of form as well as attractions

of metallic tinting;--the tarantula, or the _matoutou-falaise_, have

geometrical beauty. Lapidaries have in all ages expended rare skill

upon imitations of serpent grace in gold and gems;--a princess would not

scorn to wear a diamond spider. But what art could utilize successfully

the form of the centipede? It is a form of absolute repulsiveness,--a

skeleton-shape half defined:--the suggestion of some old reptile-spine

astir, crawling with its fragments of ribs.

No other living thing excites exactly the same feeling produced by the

sight of the centipede,--the intense loathing and peculiar fear. The

instant you see a centipede you feel it is absolutely necessary to kill

it; you cannot find peace in your house while you know that such a life

exists in it: perhaps the intrusion of a serpent would annoy and

disgust you less. And it is not easy to explain the whole reason of this

loathing. The form alone has, of course, something to do with it,--a

form that seems almost a departure from natural laws. But the form alone

does not produce the full effect, which is only experienced when you see

the creature in motion. The true horror of the centipede, perhaps, must

be due to the monstrosity of its movement,--multiple and complex, as of

a chain of pursuing and inter-devouring lives: there is something about

it that makes you recoil, as from a sudden corrupt swarming-out. It is

confusing,--a series of contractings and lengthenings and, undulations

so rapid as to allow of being only half seen: it alarms also, because

the thing seems perpetually about to disappear, and because you know

that to lose sight of it for one moment involves the very unpleasant

chance of finding it upon you the next,--perhaps between skin and

clothing.

But this is not all:--the sensation produced by the centipede is still

more complex--complex, in fact, as the visible organization of the

creature. For, during pursuit,--whether retreating or attacking, in

hiding or fleeing,--it displays a something which seems more than

instinct: calculation and cunning,--a sort of malevolent intelligence.

It knows how to delude, how to terrify;--it has marvellous skill in

feinting;--it is an abominable juggler....

III.

I am about to leave my room after breakfast, when little Victoire who

carries the meals up-stairs in a wooden tray, screams out:--"_Gadé,

Missié! ni bête-ni-pié assous dos ou!_" There is a thousand-footed beast

upon my back!.

Off goes my coat, which I throw upon the floor;--the little servant, who

has a nervous horror of centipedes, climbs upon a chair. I cannot see

anything under the coat, nevertheless;--I lift it by the collar, turn it

about very cautiously--nothing! Suddenly the child screams again; and I

perceive the head close to my hand;--the execrable thing had been hiding

in a perpendicular fold of the coat, which I drop only just in time to

escape getting bitten. Immediately the centipede becomes invisible.

Then I take the coat by one flap, and turn it over very quickly: just

as quickly does the centipede pass over it in the inverse direction, and

disappear under it again. I have had my first good look at him: he

seems nearly a foot long,--has a greenish-yellow hue against the black

cloth,--and pink legs, and a violet head;--he is evidently young.... I

turn the coat a second time: same disgusting manreuvre. Undulations of

livid color flow over him as he lengthens and shortens;--while running

his shape is but half apparent; it is only as he makes a half pause in

doubling round and under the coat that the panic of his legs becomes

discernible. When he is fully exposed they move with invisible

rapidity,--like a vibration;--you can see only a sort of pink haze

extending about him,--something to which you would no more dare advance

your finger than to the vapory halo edging a circular saw in motion.

Twice more I turn and re-turn the coat with the same result;--I observe

that the centipede always runs towards my hand, until I withdraw it: he

feints!

With a stick I uplift one portion of the coat after another; and

suddenly perceive him curved under a sleeve,--looking quite small!--how

could he have seemed so large a moment ago?... But before I can strike

him he has flickered over the cloth again, and vanished; and I discover

that he has the power of _magnifying himself_,--dilating the disgust of

his shape at will: he invariably amplifies himself to face attack....

It seems very difficult to dislodge him; he displays astonishing

activity and cunning at finding wrinkles and folds to hide in. Even at

the risk of damaging various things in the pockets, I stamp upon the

coat;--then lift it up with the expectation of finding the creature

dead. But it suddenly rushes out from some part or other, looking larger

and more wicked than ever,--drops to the floor, and charges at my feet:

a sortie! I strike at him unsuccessfully with the stick: he retreats

to the angle between wainscoting and floor, and runs along it fast as

a railroad train,--dodges two or three pokes,--gains the

door-frame,--glides behind a hinge, and commences to run over the wall

of the stair-way. There the hand of a black servant slaps him dead.

--"Always strike at the head," the servant tells me; "never tread on the

tail.... This is a small one: the big fellows can make you afraid if you

do not know how to kill them."

... I pick up the carcass with a pair of scissors. It does not look

formidable now that it is all contracted;--it is scarcely eight

inches long,--thin as card-board, and even less heavy. It has no

substantiality, no weight;--it is a mere appearance, a mask, a

delusion.... But remembering the spectral, cunning, juggling something

which magnified and moved it but a moment ago,--I feel almost tempted to

believe, with certain savages, that there are animal shapes inhabited by

goblins....

IV.

--"Is there anything still living and lurking in old black drains

of Thought,--any bigotry, any prejudice, anything in the moral world

whereunto the centipede may be likened?"

--"Really, I do not know," replied the friend to whom I had put the

question; "but you need only go as far as the vegetable world for a

likeness. Did you ever see anything like this?" he added, opening a

drawer and taking therefrom something revolting, which, as he pressed it

in his hand, looked like a long thick bundle of dried centipedes.

--"Touch them," he said, holding out to me the mass of articulated flat

bodies and bristling legs.

--"Not for anything!" I replied, in astonished disgust. He laughed, and

opened his hand. As he did so, the mass expanded.

--"Now look," he exclaimed!

Then I saw that all the bodies were united at the tails--grew together

upon one thick flat annulated stalk... a plant!--"But here is the

fruit," he continued, taking from the same drawer a beautifully embossed

ovoid nut, large as a duck's egg, ruddy-colored, and so exquisitely

varnished by nature as to resemble a rosewood carving fresh from the

hands of the cabinet-maker. In its proper place among the leaves and

branches, it had the appearance of something delicious being devoured

by a multitude of centipedes. Inside was a kernel, hard and heavy as

iron-wood; but this in time, I was told, falls into dust: though the

beautiful shell remains always perfect.

Negroes call it the _coco-macaque_.

Two Years in the French West Indies · 第 10 / 14 章