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[Illustration]
A
YACHT VOYAGE
TO
NORWAY,
DENMARK, AND SWEDEN.
BY
W. A. ROSS, ESQ.
Ver erat: errabam: Zephyrus conspexit: abibam:
Insequitur: fugio.
OVID. _Fast._, Lib. v.
Second Edition.
LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1849.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY T. R. HARRISON,
ST. MARTIN'S LANE.
TO
AN AMIABLE AND A GENEROUS FRIEND,
ROBERT, LORD RODNEY,
I DEDICATE THIS VOLUME,
IN TOKEN
OF ADMIRATION, GRATITUDE,
AND
AFFECTION.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Greenwich--The History of the Iris Yacht
--Sheerness--Harwich--Under Weigh--The North Sea--Sail
in Sight--The Mail Overboard--Speaking the Norwegian 1
CHAPTER II.
Foggy Weather--First View of Norway--Christiansand Fiord
--Arrival at Christiansand--Description of the Town--The
Toptdal River--Excursion Inland--The Enthusiastic
Angler--Rustic Lodgings--Hunting the Bear--The Trap--The
Death--Norwegian Liberality 13
CHAPTER III.
Departure from Christiansand--The Pilot's Pram--Skaw Point
--Delinquencies of Jacko--Expensive Cannonading--Elsineur
--Hamlet's Walk--The Minister, Struensee--Story of Queen
Caroline-Matilda--Legend of the Serf 46
CHAPTER IV.
The Pilot--Tempestuous Weather--Distant View of Copenhagen
--Lord Nelson--The Battle of the Baltic--The Harbour-Master
--Interest excited by the Yacht's Arrival--The Artist--The
Angler--We go Ashore 58
CHAPTER V.
Copenhagen--The Cape--The Dilemma--The Guard--Compliment to
England--Description of the Harbour and Fortifications--
Delinquent Sailors--The City on Sunday--Negro Commissionaire
--A Walk through the City--Notices of the various Public
Buildings 74
CHAPTER VI.
The Casino--The Royal Family of Denmark--Succession to
Holstein--The English Consul--Visit to the English Ambassador
--Colossal Statue of Christian the Fifth--Anecdote of Belzoni
--Trinity Church--Extraordinary Feat of Peter the Great
--Ducking an Offender--Palace of Christiansborg--The Exchange
--The Castle of Rosenberg 91
CHAPTER VII.
Dinner at the Embassy--Manners and Customs of the Danes--The
Spanish Ambassador and the English Exile--The Citadel--Story
of the Two Captives--Joe Washimtum, again--A Danish Dinner
--Visit to the Theatre--Political Reflections--Festivities
on Board the Yacht--Merry Party at the American Ambassador's
--The Duchies of Schleswig and Holstein 106
CHAPTER VIII.
The Exile's Souvenir--The Disappointed Artist--Departure
from Copenhagen--Arrival at Elsineur--Description of the
Town--The Castle of Cronenborg--Hamlet's Garden--Esrom
Lake--The Legend of Esrom Monastery--The French War-Steamer
--Sailing up the Cattegat 140
CHAPTER IX.
Arrival at Falkenborg--The Storm--The Yacht in Danger--Safe
Anchorage--Visit to Falkenborg--Ludicrous Adventure--A
Drive into the Interior--Great Scarcity experienced by the
Inhabitants--Description of the Country--The Disappointed
Anglers--Kongsbacka--The Yacht runs aground--Gottenborg 154
CHAPTER X.
The Casino at Gottenborg--Awkward Dilemma--The Watchman
and the Northern Star--Swedish Artillery--The Grove--An
Old Man's History--The Alarm of Fire--The Carriage
overturned--The River Gotha--Washing in the Stream--The
Narrow Streets--Description of Gottenborg--Its Decayed
Commerce--The Herring Fishery 172
CHAPTER XI.
Return to Norway--Sail up the Gulf--Approach to Christiania
--Its Appearance from the Water--Anecdote of Bernadotte--
Description of the City--The Fortress--Charles the XIIth
--The Convicts--Story of the Captured Cannon--The Highwayman
--Prospect from the Mountains--The Norwegian Peasant Girl 204
CHAPTER XII.
A Drive into the Interior--Extensive and Sublime Prospect
--Norwegian Post-Houses--Repair of the Roads--Preparations
for Departure 215
CHAPTER XIII.
The Yacht under sail--Jacko overboard--Fredricksvaern--The
Union Jack--Scenery on the Larvig River--Transit of Timber
--Salmon Fishing--The Defeated Angler--Ludicrous Adventure
with an Eagle--Result of the Angling Expedition--The Bevy of
Ladies--Norwegian Dinner-Party, Singular and Amusing Customs 240
CHAPTER XIV.
Another Fishing Excursion--Landing a Salmon--The Carriole--
Boats rowed by Ladies--Departure from Larvig--Christiansand
Harbour--Return to Boom--Sincere Welcome--Angling at the
Falls--The Forsaken Angler--A Misunderstanding--Reconciliation
--St. John's Day--Simplicity of Manners 260
CHAPTER XV.
Sailing up the Gron Fiord--Dangerous Swell--Excursion Ashore
--Trout-Fishing--Mountain Scenery--Ant-Hills--Hazardous
Drive--The Scottish Emigrant--Miserable Lodging--Condition
of the Peasantry--A Village Patriarch--Costume of the Country
People--Arrival at Faedde 287
CHAPTER XVI.
Return to the Yacht--Poor Jacko--Ascending the Stream--
Description of the Faedde Fiord--Adventures of an Angler--Sail
to the Bukke Fiord--The Fathomless Lake--The Maniac, and her
History--The Village of Sand--Extraordinary Peculiarities of
the Sand Salmon--Seal Hunting--Shooting Gulls--The Seal
caught--Night in the North 303
CHAPTER XVII.
The Dangerous Straits--British Seamanship--The Glaciers
of Folgefonde--Bergen--Habits of the Fishermen--The Sogne
Fiord--Leerdal--Arrival at Auron--A Hospitable Host--
Ascending the Mountains--The Two Shepherdesses--Hunting
the Rein-Deer--Adventure on the Mountains--Slaughtering
Deer--The Fawn 336
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Sick Sailor--The Storm--The Lee-Shore--"Breakers
a-head"--The Yacht in Distress--Weathering the Storm--Return
to Bergen--The Physician--The Whirlpool--The Water-Spout
--Homeward Bound--Scarborough--Yarmouth Roads--Erith--
Greenwich Hospital--Conclusion 397
ERRATA.
Page
79, line 14, _for_ "Nelson," _read_ "Gambier."
92, omit "to the eye."
100, line 12, _for_ "Nelson's," _read_ "Gambier's."
145, last line, _for_ "Braggesen," _read_ "Baggesen."
165, line 31, _for_ "they had endured," _read_ "each of them had endured."
201, line 9, _read_ "as here at Gottenborg."
239, line 33, _for_ "immovably," _read_ "immoveably."
243, line 6, _for_ "jibbed," _read_ "jibed."
286, line 18, _for_ "everywhere," _read_ "ever where."
327, line 10, _for_ "than me," _read_ "than I."
338, line 31, _for_ "jibbing," _read_ "jibing."
A YACHT VOYAGE
TO
NORWAY, SWEDEN, & DENMARK.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM GREENWICH--THE HISTORY OF THE IRIS
YACHT--SHEERNESS--HARWICH--UNDER WEIGH--THE NORTH
SEA--SAIL IN SIGHT--THE MAIL OVERBOARD--SPEAKING
THE NORWEGIAN.
I believe the old Italian proverb says, that every man, before he dies,
should do three things: "Get a son, build a house, and write a book."
Now, whether or not I am desirous, by beginning at the end, to end at
the beginning of this quaint axiom, I leave the reader to conjecture. My
book may afford amusement to him who will smile when I am glad, and
sympathise with the impressions I have caught in other moods of mind;
but I have little affinity of feeling, and less companionship with him
who expects to see pictures of life coloured differently from those I
have beheld.
At three o'clock on the boisterous afternoon of the 1st of May, 1847, I
left Greenwich with my friend Lord R----, in his yacht, to cruise round
the coasts of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden; and, although the period of
the year at which I quitted London was the one I most desired to remain
in it, and join, as far as I was able, in the pomps and gaieties of Old
Babylon, I did not like to miss this opportunity, offered under such
favourable circumstances, of seeing countries so rarely visited by
Englishmen, more particularly as the invitation had been pressed upon me
so unaffectedly and kindly, that I could not, with any reason, decline
it.
Dropping down with the tide, we arrived the same evening alongside the
guard-ship at Sheerness; and, being desirous of making ourselves snug,
and of landing two unfortunate friends whom we had originally promised
to send ashore at Gravesend, we made fast to a Government buoy, and
remained in smooth water till the following morning.
The "Iris" cutter belongs to the R.Y.S., and is the sister-vessel of the
"Corsair." She was built by Ratsey for the late Mr. Fleming, with whom
she was a great favourite, and for whom she won many valuable prizes.
From England to the Mediterranean, she safely bore her first master many
times; but with flowing canvass and with rapid keel at last enticed him
once too often from his native shore; for, during a cruise in the
Mediterranean, after many months of pain, he died while gazing on her.
Passing through several hands, serving all equally well in gale or calm,
she came at last into the possession of Lord R----, who has travelled
farther, and made more extraordinary voyages in her than any member of
the Squadron; and in spite of all improvements adopted of late years in
yacht-building, there are but few, if any, vessels of seventy-five tons,
that can surpass her in speed and symmetrical beauty, or in the buoyant
ease with which she has encountered the fiercest storms.
Her crew consisted of seven or eight regular seamen, a sailing-master,
mate, cook, steward, and a boy to assist him. A fine Newfoundland dog,
called "Sailor," and a droll little ring-tail monkey, called "Jacko,"
also joined in the mess for'ard. Lord R----, with Captain P---- and
myself, made up the entire complement.
On Sunday morning, the 2nd, at eleven, as the church bells of Sheerness
were chiming a merry peal, we commenced preparations for our departure,
by sending our two friends off in the jolly-boat, in which they must
have got pretty wet; for a sea was running sufficiently high to cause
them some little discomfort. After a gloomy day's work, we reached
Harwich, and at nine in the evening rested again in five fathoms water.
We rose betimes the following day, and strolled about the town in search
of stores. We collected on board every kind of preserved meat and
vegetable one could think of; and every kind of wine, from champagne
down to cherry cordial, the taste of man could relish. We had milk, too,
in pots, and mint for our peasoup; lard in bladders, and butter, both
fresh and salt, in jars; flour, and suet, which we kept buried in the
flour; a hundred stalks of horseradish for roast beef; and raisins,
citron, and currants, for plum-pudding.
We had rifles and guns to shoot bears and wolves; and large rods, large
as small maypoles, to catch salmon, and small rods to secure the bait.
We had fishing-tackle which, when unwound, went all the way into the
after cabin, and then back again ten times round the main cabin.
We had water-proof boots, reaching up to the hips, for wading the
rivers; and India-rubber pilot-jackets for keeping the chest and back
secure from the spray of foss, or wave. Indeed, we had all that the
heart of man could wish, and all that his judgment could devise.
I contrived, before the day had passed, to become very sick of Harwich
and myself; for of all dull holes in this kingdom of England, does not
this one claim the superlative degree? Tuesday, the 4th, still found me
on the same spot, gazing on the two lighthouses; and, to enhance my
gaiety, R---- and P---- went to Ipswich to see a schooner yacht, being
built for an old friend of R---- and at that moment on the stocks. They
returned laden with turnips, carrots, radishes, and cabbages. The
luckless schooner was rated in great style--berths too numerous, and
cabin not lofty enough. A fiddle also was bought to-day for Jerome, a
sailor, who, though self-taught, had some idea of music and afterwards,
wiled away, in Norway, and on the ocean, during the calm evenings, many
a weary hour, by playing to us some of Old England's most plaintive
airs.
The following day came and went in the same monotonous fashion as its
predecessor, since I find its events recorded thus:--"Fine day--nothing
new. Went ashore. Bought fish, mutton, and beef. Eat all the fish, and
some of the beef. Wind E.S.E."
Thursday dawned beautifully calm, and not a cloud was visible between
earth and the blue Heaven. As I paced up and down the deck, yet damp
with dew, I thought the serenity of the morning emblematic of our future
wanderings--and was I wrong? As the sun gained altitude and power, the
water became rippled with a light air, and nine o'clock found us fairly
under weigh.
There was not a heavy heart on board; even Jacko chirupped, and,
swinging by his tail from the bowsprit shroud, revelled in the warm
sunshine. Being desirous of showing the exuberance of our spirits,
R----, who had observed an old dame and her maid plying in a wherry
round the cutter--probably to take a nearer view of our beautiful craft
and her adventurous crew, or, perhaps to breathe the morning air, I know
not which--ordered the two quarter swivels to be loaded, and watching
his opportunity, when the cautious wherry came rather near, fired both
of them right over the old lady's black bonnet, and sent the wad fizzing
and smoking into the servant-girl's lap. I need not describe the alarm
of the old woman, nor the shriek of the young one; but the grin of the
well-seasoned tar who rowed, coupled with his efforts to keep the fair
freight quiet where he had stowed it, were worth our whole cargo.
We shipped from this port a man named King, who was to act as
interpreter. He had been in Norway, and was well acquainted with the
people and language, having been for many previous years of his life
employed in the lobster fisheries. He proved a most willing, honest,
good-tempered servant, and a most useful linguist.
The wind being light, the Iris found it tough work in stemming the
strong tide which sets into Harwich; but we contrived at half-past
eleven to pass Orfordness Light. At six, the breeze having eastern'd a
little, and increased till it became what sailors term "pleasant," we
lost sight of Lowestoff; and lastly, being this day's work, as well as
for the information of all nautical men, we sounded at half-past seven
on Smith's Knoll, in seven fathoms.
Friday morning, the 7th, dawned upon our glorious craft dashing through
the water in great style, with a moderate breeze from S. to S.S.E. As I
cast my eye round the horizon, and descried no land, thoughts of old
days crowded to my recollection, when I left home for the first time,
and England for the West Indies. How all the high hopes of youth had
vanished; and how unaltered my condition _now_ from what it was _then_!
Had an angel come down from Heaven and told me, twelve years ago, when
I, a boy, stood on the hencoop of a West Indiaman, gazing at the Lizard,
that I should be the same creature in feeling and condition, I should
have questioned the prophecy. But the wind is fair, and this is no time
for sorrowful thoughts.
"Hard-up the helm! Dick," said D----.
"Ay, ay, sir."
"Steady!--So."
"Steady, sir."
"Some man there, heave the lead!" and down it went, rushing, in
five-and-twenty fathoms on the Silver Pits. At nine, the vessel was hove
to, and we tried our lines for fish, but did not succeed. We filled on
her again, and stood away, as before, to the N.E. At two o'clock, while
we were trying our lines for the second time, I felt, suddenly,
squeamish; and, in spite of the splendid weather and pure air, wished
myself most heartily in the middle of Bond-street, or any, the most
ignoble alley in the neighbourhood of Leicester-square. I closed my eyes
and fancied myself seated on a bench in the Green Park, watching the
sheep browsing round me, and listening to the rumbling of carriages as
they passed along Piccadilly. I opened my eyes; the vision fades, and,
lo!
"Nil nisi pontus et aer."
However, I plucked up courage, and remained on deck until half-past six,
when the gaff-topsail was unbent and the top-mast struck; D----, the
sailing-master, anticipating no good from the calm, and the dense fog,
which had succeeded a fine wind and cheerful sunshine.
Early in the morning, about four o'clock, I was awakened by a good deal
of laughing and shuffling of feet on deck, and by an occasional thump,
as if a cargo of pumpkins was being taken on board.
I leaped out of my berth, and, putting my head above the companion, saw
all the men who composed the watch hard at work with their
fishing-lines, and the main-deck covered with several large codfish.
Witnessing the pugnacity of one or two fish when they were hauled out of
the water, I turned in again: for it was no easy matter to stand, the
swell increasing as we got more on the Dogger Bank.
While we were at breakfast, eating cods' sound and talking of smoked
salmon, the sailing-master came below and told us a small vessel was in
sight, and, by running down to her, we might speak her and send letters
home by her. Of course, all the married men commenced scratching in
great style both paper and their pates, and in a shorter time than could
be imagined, made up a small mail. The more strenuously, however, we
endeavoured to approach the vessel, the more she bore away; and, being a
long way to the eastward of us, and going before the wind with her
square-sail set, it was doubtful whether we should fetch her. At last,
we fancied she mistook us for pirates; for, I must confess, we looked
suspicious; and the squadron ensign flying at the peak made our cutter
appear more warlike and determined than she really was. By eleven,
notwithstanding our friend's manoeuvring, we were pretty close to her,
and, lowering the dingy as quickly as possible, two men were ordered to
pull to the strange smack, and, ascertaining her destination, to deliver
the letters. This last action on our part took the poor craft by
surprise; for it was curious to observe the pertinacity with which this
little vessel avoided our boat, although we used every stratagem devised
by seafaring men to allay the consternation of the weak: such as the
waving of our caps, the hoisting of pacific signals, the lowering of our
gaff-topsail, &c., &c.; nor could she be persuaded of our amicable
intentions before poor King had shouted, at the top of his lungs, that
we were Englishmen in search of pleasure, and destined for no marauding
purpose.
She turned out to be, what our glasses had anticipated at daylight, a
Norwegian, laden with dried fish, and bound to the coast of Holland;
and, therefore, our letters were brought back.
Scarcely had the incident I have just mentioned come to a conclusion,
than another sail, just emerging from the horizon, was discovered on our
weather bow. We rubbed our hands, plucked our caps over the forehead,
and walked up and down the deck more briskly than ever; for there is no
man who has not been to sea can imagine the feelings of sailors when,
far from land, a sail is seen.
Every minute now brought us closer, and at two P.M. we had come
within hail. There was little wind, but a nasty short sea was running;
and it was comical in the extreme to observe each man endeavouring to
steady himself, and place his hands to his mouth for the purpose of
hailing, when a sudden swell would send him rolling over Sailor's hutch,
or seat him gently on the sky-light behind. After a little trouble, the
speaking-trumpet was found and brought on deck, and by its assistance a
communication was opened with the vessel. She was a large Norwegian
bark from Christiansand, and bound to London. To our request that they
would take charge of some letters, the captain, leaning over the
weather-quarter, assented in a loud Norwegian dialect. The question
which now arose was, how were we to get the said letters on board; but
necessity, being here established as the mother of invention, gave a
prompt answer. P----, holding the letters in his hand, desired that a
potato might be brought. The largest from the store was presented. It
was then lashed with a piece of twine to the letters, now transposed
into a tidy brown-paper parcel, which P----, balancing in the palm of
his left hand, suggested was not of sufficient weight to reach the ship.
We were not long at a loss, for the cook appeared, grim and smiling,
with a tolerable-sized coal exposed to view and approbation, between his
thumb and forefinger. Side by side, like a fair-haired youth with his
swarthy bride, the coal and potato were placed; and P----, poising for
the second time the precious parcel, rolled up his shirt-sleeve, and,
throwing himself well back, hurled, with all the elegance of a Parthian,
coal, potato, and parcel toward the Norwegian captain's head. But,
horror! the potato and coal combined proved rather too heavy, and,
retaining their impetus longer than intended, carried the luckless
brown-paper bundle over the lee-side and into the North Sea.
The ship immediately backed her main-yard, and, lowering one of her
stern boats, sent her off in search of the unhappy letters; but having
rowed about for some time without catching a glimpse of coal, paper, or
potato, the search was abandoned, and the boat came alongside of us.
After delivering another packet of brown paper, and presenting each man
(there were four) with a bottle of brandy, we parted company with mutual
good wishes conveyed through our interpreter, King, not omitting sundry
well-meaning gesticulations telegraphed between the fat Norwegian
captain on the weather quarter and ourselves. This was the first
specimen we had met with of northern kindness; and, although we had
heard a great deal of their unaffected goodness of heart, this act of
civility made no slight impression upon us. At four o'clock, while our
Norwegian bark was just _hull down_, the gaff-topsail was taken in, a
strong S.E. wind with rain having arisen. The wind still increasing, at
seven the first reef in the mainsail was also taken in, jibs shifted,
and the bowsprit reefed.
During the rest of the evening I was a martyr to all the miseries of
sea-sickness, and, stretched at full length on the cabin sofa, I closed
my eyes, and, allowing my thoughts to wander where they would, hoped to
cheat myself out of my present discomfort; but nausea, like no other ill
to which we are subservient, is not to be pacified, and I lay the whole
night sensible of the keenest pain.