OUR JOURNEY CONTINUED--BEAUTIFUL SCENERY--PREPARING TO CROSS THE
PARAMO--DESCRIPTION OF A PARAMO--COMMENCE THE PASSAGE--SKELETONS OF MEN
AND MULES--INTENSITY OF THE COLD--ANTONIO SUFFERS GREATLY--HE RECOVERS
BY DRINKING A DRAUGHT OF COLD WATER--DARKNESS--OUR SUFFERINGS ON THE
INCREASE--A STRONG INCLINATION TO SLEEP--I SINK TO THE GROUND--LION
AROUSES ME--WE REACH THE TAMBO--A NIGHT IN THE HUT--INTENSE COLD--
DAYLIGHT AT LAST--OUR PASSAGE ACROSS THE PARAMO--SAD SIGHTS--THE DESCENT
OF THE MOUNTAINS--REACHING A FOREST--PADILLO GOES OFF TO OBTAIN
INTELLIGENCE--WE BUILD A HUT, AND GO TO SLEEP--OUR HUT ON FIRE--A NARROW
ESCAPE.
For several days we had been travelling westward over the mountains.
The young Indian, Padillo, as he called himself, had proved a faithful
guide. If we were pursued, we had evaded our enemies, and, we hoped,
had done so effectually. The scenery through which we passed was
extremely wild and grand. Round us appeared mountains piled on
mountains, rocks heaped on rocks; and when we fancied that we had
reached the summit of an elevation whence we could look down below,
another mountain, more grand and terrific, appeared through the veil of
mist which before had shrouded it from our sight. It seemed as if we
should never escape from this chaos of rocky pinnacles and snow-covered
heights. The sky above us was of a clear, bright blue; in some places
beautifully streaked, and varied with a silvery hue or pale straw
colour, but not a cloud dimming its lustre. Severe as was the cold, as
we were in constant exercise we scarcely felt it; while the rarity of
the air imparted wonderful lightness and elasticity to our frames, so
that sometimes I could scarcely help leaping and bounding forward. At
night we generally found shelter in a cave or under an overhanging
rock--always keeping up a blazing fire, to scare wild beasts, as well as
to afford us warmth.
At last we reached the entrance of a gloomy valley, between lofty and
snow-topped mountains, their sides in some places almost perpendicular.
"We must be prepared to push rapidly across the Paramo," observed
Padillo. "It is late in the year, and I do not altogether like the look
of the weather. We shall require two days at least to get to the
further end. Frequently three days are occupied by persons on
horseback, but you march so quickly that we may do it in less time; and
there is a tambo about midway where we can obtain shelter."
"Cross it we must, at all risks," answered Uncle Richard, who was
especially eager to get back to the neighbourhood of Popayan, to
ascertain how his family were faring. He intended also to try and raise
a corps.
It was not without reason that we dreaded passing across this bleak
region. The name of Paramo is given to those inhospitable
desert-regions high up among the mountains, of which there are so many
in the Andes. No human being can exist in them without keeping in
incessant and violent motion. Artificial means are incapable of
sustaining life while a person is exposed to the inclement air. Ardent
spirits are entirely void of any good effect, and generally increase the
evil consequences. These Paramos are usually long deep valleys between
lofty elevations, so shut in and obscured by the neighbouring hills as
to possess all the severities of their extreme height, while not a ray
of sunshine can enter to shed its gentle influence through them. Death
almost invariably overtakes those who attempt to rest in them
unsheltered at night. The extent of some of them is so great that it
requires two or three days to cross them; and in these small houses have
been erected, in which cooking utensils and other articles of
convenience are kept for the accommodation of travellers, as well as
stabling for their mules. Here, by means of large fires, they may
manage to keep themselves warm, though even then people suffer greatly.
In consequence of the highly rarefied air, the traveller at first
experiences great difficulty in breathing, accompanied by a sharp,
piercing pain at each inspiration. This increases until he becomes what
the natives call "emparamento,"--when his extremities are benumbed, and
he can no longer continue in motion. Soon after this he is seized with
violent raving and delirium; froth issues from his mouth; he tears the
flesh from his hands and arms with his teeth, pulls his hair, and beats
himself against the ground, meanwhile uttering the most piercing cries,
until he is quite exhausted. The cold then deprives him of all motion
and feeling, his body becomes much swollen, and fearful distortion of
the features is produced by the dreadful convulsions he is suffering,
while the surface of his skin becomes nearly black. The only remedy the
natives know of is to scourge each other, and to drink the cold water
from the springs, which are found here and there in most of the Paramos.
We had all of us heard this account of the Paramos, and were fully
prepared for the danger we must encounter. Being on foot, we should the
better be able to keep ourselves warm; at the same time, we should be
the longer exposed to the piercing wind. Already, as we mounted towards
this fearful region, we began to experience unpleasant sensations when
breathing.
Having taken an ample breakfast, we determined to push on to the tambo,
where we must rest until the following morning. It was most important
to reach it before dark, for should we be benighted our position would
become critical in the extreme. Nerving ourselves for the undertaking,
we marched forward. Providentially there was but little wind. As we
advanced we saw the skeletons and carcasses of numerous mules; some
perfectly blanched by the wind, others still partly covered with flesh,
on which numberless galenachas, or black vultures, were busily feasting.
The stench proceeding from others not long dead, close to which we had
to pass, was most offensive.
"At all events, no human beings appear to have died here," I observed to
our guide.
"Don't say that, until you have got further," he answered.
In a few minutes we came in sight of a grinning skull placed on the top
of a rock, the body lying below it. A few steps further on we came upon
the skeletons of several persons lying with their legs across their
mules; both the animal and its rider having evidently succumbed at the
same moment.
"This does not look pleasant," observed Uncle Richard; "but we must not
allow it to depress our spirits."
In spite, however, of the severe exertions we were making, we felt the
cold every instant becoming greater. Antonio, though apparently as
strong as any of us, became so benumbed that he could scarcely walk. He
had brought a small flask of aguardiente, which he confessed he had
drained to the bottom, but it had apparently had a bad effect on him.
At length his sufferings became so great that we began to fear we must
leave him behind, as to carry him on to the tambo would be impossible;
though, if left behind, he would certainly die in a few minutes. While
he was in this state, Padillo volunteered to go forward, recollecting
that there was a spring in the neighbourhood, and urging us to try and
reach it. In a short time Padillo returned with the information that
the spring was only a little way on; so, while Uncle Richard took one of
Antonio's arms, I took the other, and Padillo, with a stick, kept
beating him severely about the body. Whenever Antonio cried out,
Padillo answered, "Never mind, friend, never mind; it's all for your
good." At length, what with pinching his arms, and Padillo's
flagellation, he was kept alive until we reached the spring. Here we
compelled him to drink a draught of water, though at first he showed a
great unwillingness to swallow it, like a person afflicted with
hydrophobia. In a wonderfully short time, however, he perfectly
recovered, and declared that he felt warm and comfortable.
Uncle Richard and I then tried the experiment, as we were beginning to
feel the sensations Antonio had at first complained of. The attempt,
however, was extremely painful; indeed, I felt as if I had swallowed a
handful of needles, the which were pricking and tearing the whole
interior of my throat in their passage downwards. Directly I had
swallowed the water, however, I began to feel a comfortable glow, which
in a short time spread equally over me.
The delay, however, might have been fatal to all of us, as darkness had
already begun to spread over the deep valley, and we could see no tambo
ahead. From the experience we had had, we were sure we could not rest
anywhere for an instant, while the danger was great in proceeding in the
dark. Still Padillo said he could find the way, and led us on at a
swinging trot, we doing our utmost to keep up with him; often, however,
I felt a strong inclination to sink down and enjoy a short sleep, if
only for a minute or two. I thought that I should soon catch up my
companions. The wind had increased, too, and a thick sleet drove
through the air, which made us feel as if pins and needles were sticking
in our faces.
"This is very unpleasant," cried Uncle Richard; "but it won't last for
ever, that's one comfort."
The darkness increased, and the thought that we should have to go on
through such weather as this during the whole night was terrible.
Padillo was leading. Uncle Richard made Antonio walk before him; I,
with Lion, who kept close to my heels, continued talking to Uncle
Richard for some time, until the desire to stop suddenly overpowered me.
"I hope we shall soon reach the hut," I said.
"Cheer up--in a few minutes we shall be there," I heard Uncle Richard
say, and at that instant I sank to the ground. I heard the footsteps of
my companions as they moved on; but, seized with a kind of insanity, I
flattered myself that after a few minutes' rest I should be able to get
up and follow them. For some time, as it appeared to me, though it may
have been only for a moment or two, my senses completely left me; then I
became conscious that Lion had placed himself above me, and was licking
my hands and face. Then I heard him utter a loud bark; after which he
began to pull at my clothes, and bark louder and louder, until he
succeeded in arousing me. Mercifully, I had still strength sufficient
to get up; and as I did so, Lion still pulling at my trousers, I heard
Uncle Richard's voice shouting out, "Duncan! Duncan! come along."
Presently he appeared through the gloom; when he took my hand, and I
stumbled forward.