On the ax more than on anything else depends the comfort and success
of the northern forest traveler, whatever his calling. He may, to
lighten his load, discard all of the articles in his outfit which are
not absolutely essential, but never by any chance is the ax among
those cast aside, because this tool is the most necessary and the
most useful article used by the bushman. Not a day passes that the ax
is not put to strenuous use, and on the trap line nearly every hour
of the day finds the ax at work, smoothing the rough path of the
traveler and providing for his comfort and welfare.
How could the wilderness trapper exist without the aid of this most
useful tool? On it he must depend for his night's supply of firewood,
and when the weather is cold this means not only comfort, but life
itself, for the hardiest trapper could not long survive a temperature
of forty below without a good warm fire beside which to spread his
bed. With the ax he cuts poles for the frame work of his night's
camp; he uses it to blaze the trail that he may follow it again when
he goes the rounds to glean his harvest from the traps which he has
set; he uses it when making the sets themselves; for cutting the
drooping, snow-laden branches across his trail, and many minor uses
which cannot now be mentioned. When making a hard trip he may leave
his gun in camp, and may even travel and camp without blankets,
shelter or cooking utensils, but the ax must go with him on every
trip.
We are told that in early days the Indians paid fabulous prices for
the most simple and common tools, and it has been said that as much
as a hundred dollars in furs has been paid by an Indian hunter for an
ax. It seems like wholesale robbery, but the bargain had two
sides--two points of view. The Indian simply exchanged what was
practically worthless to him for what was of priceless value, and
from his point of view he drove as shrewd a bargain as did the
trader. When we leave civilization behind us values change, and
utilitarian worth counts more than intrinsic value, therefore, the ax
becomes more valuable than a whole season's catch of furs.
If any class of people need perfect goods it is the class who must
depend on these goods for their existence. The woodsman should have a
perfect gun, perfect traps, perfect camp equipment, the best food he
can buy, but above all a perfect ax. It should be of the finest
material and of the best temper, tough but not hard. When put to a
great strain steel will do one of two things--it will bend or it will
break. If of good quality, with the proper proportion of carbon, it
will stand an unusually severe test before it will do either, but
when it does give it should bend rather than break. Of this kind of
steel the trapper's ax should be made, and it should have a temper
which will enhance these good qualities. If the ax is tempered a
little too hard the edge will break when cutting into hard knots or
frozen wood, or when the frost has not been drawn from the edge
before using. When once the edge becomes dulled it is difficult to
sharpen, for the trapper of the great woods has no grindstone, and
must depend on file and whetstone to keep his cutting tools in
perfect condition. A hard ax cannot be filed, so that puts the taboo
on the ax with high temper.
I have emphasized the necessity for perfection in the trapper's ax,
and that you may realize the seriousness of this, I will repeat what
I said at the beginning of this article, that often the camper's life
depends on the ax and its ability to stand the woodsman's test. The
northern or western trapper frequently finds it necessary to make
long trips in terribly cold weather, camping out night after night.
Since the entire camp outfit and food supply must be carried on these
journeys the outfit taken must of necessity be meager. Only a single
blanket and a small, light canvas shelter can be taken and to sleep
without a fire under such conditions is out of the question. A good
hot fire must be kept going and such a fire will consume nearly half
a cord of wood during the long northern night. This must be cut into
lengths that can be handled and what would become of the camper if
his ax were to break before the night's wood was cut; he far from the
home camp, darkness at hand, and the temperature far below the zero
mark. Freezing to death could be the only possible outcome, unless he
could retrace his steps in the dark and travel all the long night. So
you see it will pay you to test your ax well before you take it into
the woods, and take only one that will stand the most severe trial,
even if you break a dozen axes before you get one that is
satisfactory.
What I have said of the material of the ax head applies with
equal force to the ax handle. It should be of sound, strong,
straight-grained, springy wood, for sometimes a broken ax handle is
as disastrous as a broken blade. I have never found a better wood for
ax handles than good second-growth hickory, but young white oak, the
sapwood, is almost as good.
Even if the temper and material of the ax and handle leave nothing to
be desired, if the ax is not of the right pattern, weight and length,
it will be unsatisfactory. Perhaps the most useful pattern for the
wilderness trapper is that having a long narrow blade, but this
should not be carried to the extreme, as a narrow blade is more
easily broken. The long blade is very useful when cutting holes into
the sides of trees for setting marten traps or in making deadfalls,
and for many similar uses about camp where the simplicity of the
outfit necessitates making of the ax a general utility tool. If made
extremely long and narrow, however, the consequent weakening and the
fact that a narrow blade is not so satisfactory for hewing and for
chopping in heavy wood more than offset the good qualities of the
long blade. The eye of the ax should be large, so that the handle may
be large in the eye of the ax and close by the head, and it should be
enlarged slightly at both edges. This will make it possible to wedge
the handle so that it will hold the head solidly, and it will leave
the handle if fitted well, thickest where the greatest strain comes,
close to the eye of the ax.
[Illustration: THE WOODMAN'S PERFECT AX.]
In the shaping of an ax blade there are some rules that must be
remembered and adhered to if the maximum of efficiency is desired.
These same rules must be known to the user of the tool, for in the
grinding, a bad chopping ax may often be made better, while bad
grinding makes it worse. One of these rules, and the most important,
is to have the blade or bit thinnest on the "inside corner," which is
the end of the blade nearest to the user. The hasty conclusion would
be that if this corner were thinnest, the opposite side of the blade
should be thickest. This is wrong. The thickest part of the blade
should be two-thirds of the way across from the inside corner, the
place marked X in the drawing of what I call "the woodsman's perfect
ax." A blade so shaped will have the maximum chopping power, will
sink easily into the tree, will burst the chip well, and will not
bind in the wood.
I think it best that the ax head be made of wrought iron, split, and
a welded-in steel bit. This gives the maximum strength. The butt of
the ax might also be of steel, and would be more convenient for the
trapper if it had a claw for drawing trap staples. If the eye of the
ax is not tempered in the least the entire head may be made of steel
and will be almost, if not fully, as strong, while the making is
simplified.
You may wonder why a trapper need concern himself with the making of
the ax if he can buy it ready made, but if there is a trapper's
perfect ax made, I do not know of it. I know, however, that many
readers of this article have in their locality a blacksmith who is
fully capable of making such an ax to order.
For the northern forest and the western mountain district the ax that
I would recommend would weigh only about two pounds, handle not
included in the weight. Some of you may think this entirely too
light, but the northern Indians use axes of only one and a half
pounds, and find them heavy enough for practical purposes, while
light to carry on the trail. To make a light ax effective, however,
it must have a long handle. An ax like this should have a handle of
from thirty to thirty-four inches over all, and with such a tool you
will be surprised to see what heavy work can be done.
As said before, I do not know of a better wood for ax handles than
hickory. It is very strong and springy and it always stays smooth; as
cold to the touch as the ax head itself. It is difficult to get ax
handle wood when we reach the upper part of the northern tier of
states or Canada, for hickory is not found there. Hard maple is used
extensively for ax handles in these places; but it does not compare
well with hickory. About the only way to get a handle of the proper
length for the woodsman's ax is to remove the handle from a large ax
and work it over into the proper shape and thickness. The full size
single bit axes usually have clubs of handles and there is plenty of
wood on which to work.
Did you ever wonder why an ax handle is curved in an S shape? It is
made to fit the hands of the user without strain on the arms or
wrists, and this curved shape enables him to hold the ax more solidly
when striking a blow than could be done with a straight handle. The
handle should be quite thick and "hand-fitting" near the end where it
is grasped by the left hand (or right, according to whether the user
is right or left handed), but the other part should be shaped so the
hand can slide easily back and forth while chopping.
The handle should be fastened into the ax with a wedge, which in turn
is held in place by a screw. The wedge has a head so that when the
screw is removed it is easily pried out, and then if it is necessary
to remove the handle the ax can be driven into the top of a stump or
into a log, and the handle easily detached. Such wedges may be bought
from almost any hardware company.
This is my idea of what a woodsman's ax should be, and such a tool
weighing two pounds, with a well-shaped handle thirty or thirty-two
inches long from the end to the ax eye makes an efficient tool of
light weight and a great article for use on the trail or trap line. I
might say of it, as Davy Crockett said of his knife: "It will jump
higher, dive deeper, shave more hogs and stand more bending without
breaking than any other made."
As nearly all woodsmen are good axmen, it may seem superfluous to
give advice regarding the care of an ax, the way to grind it, and how
to use it, but this article is not intended for those who know, but
for these who do not, and are desirous to learn. By a reckless,
careless blow at a hemlock knot I have seen the entire bit broken off
an ax, while other axes of no better temper but properly ground and
well handled have gone through an entire season of "bark peeling"
without a nick of any consequence. I have seen axes ruined in a half
day's work cutting brush close to the ground, and have myself used an
ax day after day at the same kind of work without making a nick which
could not be whetted out in a few minutes with a small ax stone.
There is also a lot of danger in the careless use of an ax. I have
known of at least two men who have cut their heads by splitting wood
under a clothes line. The same thing may happen when working under a
tree with low, drooping branches. In the woods it will pay double to
make it a rule on every occasion to be sure that there is not even
the smallest twig in the way to catch the ax before you make a stroke
with it. Trim all brush away from around a tree before you commence
to cut it, and observe the same precautions when you cut it into
lengths or when lopping the branches. When cutting the fallen tree
into lengths, the common and most convenient way is to stand on the
log and chop it half way through between the feet, then turn and cut
the other side in the same way. Use double precaution when doing
this, for I have known of an ax being deflected and a nasty cut being
the result. It seems that the smallest branch or sprout can turn the
ax toward the foot of the chopper.
When chopping down timber the tree can nearly always be thrown either
of three ways--the way the tree inclines or to either side, but not
the opposite way from its inclination. In addition to the incline of
the tree, the influence of the wind and the weight of the branches
must be considered, and when all of these forces are brought to bear
the timber cutter must be well "onto his job" to know just how to cut
the tree to make it fall in the desired direction. A good chopper,
however, can throw the tree to any spot designated within the falling
zone almost every time. The wind is a great factor and must be
considered, especially when the breeze is strong or when the tree
appears to stand perfectly straight. A tree on a slope that appears
to be perpendicular will, in nearly every case, fall down hill if
free to fall as it wills, providing there is no contrary wind. If the
tree really stands perfectly upright and there is no wind, it will
fall best toward the side that has the most branches, or to the side
having the greatest weight. If allowance must be made, however, for
both wind and gravity, it is then the judgment of the chopper is put
to the test. If he can estimate accurately the power of each of these
forces, he can drop his tree exactly where he wants to, but how?
It is very simple. In cutting a tree a notch is cut on the side
toward which the tree is to fall. Remember that this notch should be
cut into the center of the tree, and when finished, should be exactly
at a right angle to the line on which the tree is to fall. A notch is
then cut on the opposite side, just a little higher on the tree, and
when this notch is cut in almost to the center the tree will fall. If
the tree is notched to fall the way it inclines and there is nothing
to prevent it going that way, the second notch should be cut exactly
parallel to the first. If, however, the tree leans a little to one
side, if there are more branches on that side, or if the wind blows
in that direction, the second cut should not be parallel with the
first, but should be farther from it on the side from which the wind
comes, so that there will be more wood to break on that side. In no
case should the notches entirely meet on the other side, for if they
do, should the tree be cut entirely off on one side, it will settle
farther over to that side. Just how near you dare cut it off on the
one side and how much you must hold on the opposite side can be
learned only from experience.
There are other little things that have a certain amount of
influence. For instance, if there is nothing to interfere, the tree
in falling will draw slightly toward the high side of the notch first
cut. Then, too, if the notch is not perfectly cut, if it is more
acute on one side than on the other, as the tree falls the top and
bottom of the notch will meet on one side before they do on the
other, and this is certain to swing the tree slightly toward the wide
or obtuse side of the notch. A heavy weight of branches, too, on one
side may cause the tree to roll slightly in falling.
For your own safety it is always best to get back a safe distance
from the tree when it starts to fall, because if it falls over a
rock, a log, or a little rise in the ground the butt of the tree will
kick and may lift your head off, which would be decidedly unpleasant.
If there are other trees in the way, look out for falling branches.
I have already told how to cut the tree in sections, but the branches
must be trimmed off before it can be cut up entirely. In trimming,
work from the butt toward the top, as the branches usually grow that
way, cut easier, and are not in the way while chopping. Hold the ax
rigidly when trimming, as the knots are likely to be hard and an ax
that is not held firmly may break or bend. Make it a rule to do no
more trimming than necessary on such woods as hemlock and fir, which
have very hard knots. Frozen wood is also likely to break the ax.
When splitting wood strike straight and don't try to spring the split
open by prying with the ax, for that is the easiest way I know to
break an ax handle. Usually it is easier and better to merely start
the split with the ax and finish opening it up with wooden wedges,
using the ax only to drive the wedges and to cut the contrary fibres.
Just how to split a block easiest can be learned only from
experience. Sometimes it is best to go right at a knot or the
toughest place, and sometimes you must attack the clearest place,
depending on circumstances. Ordinarily a piece of wood splits easiest
by starting the end of the block with the ax and following up with a
pair of wedges, using the ax to cut the binding splints.
Learn to cut close to the ground without striking the stones. It
requires care, that is all, but one careless stroke may mean a badly
damaged ax and an hour or more of hard work to make it sharp again.
Don't strike downward when cutting brush; grasp the shrub, if a small
one, with the left hand, and cut it by a single stroke, as
illustrated, using the ax with one hand only. If the shrub is a large
one, handle the ax with both hands and cut close to the ground,
making a strong, slashing blow.
Grinding an ax requires some care, but it is really quite easy and it
is surprising how many axmen will not attempt to grind an ax. I have
known many good choppers, working in log camps, who could not grind
an ax, or at least thought they could not.
As the ax comes from the store it usually has a decided bevel on the
edge, and the first grinding means considerable work, for this bevel
must be ground entirely away. Start well back on the blade and grind
it slightly rounding down to the edge, until the edge is clean and
even, then grind the other side in the same way. Some axmen maintain
that the ax cuts better, or to use the woodsman's expression, "draws"
better if in finishing the grinding the ax is given a wabbling
motion. Keep in mind what I said about the shape of the blade, and if
it is not already the proper form, try to improve it each time you
put it on the grindstone. After grinding, whet the edge thoroughly
with a fine whetstone until the scratched effect caused by grinding
has given place to a smooth surface and a clean keen edge. If you do
not whet it after grinding, the edge will crumble away and the ax
will cut "dead."
The first grinding will tell you whether the ax is hard or soft. You
can tell by the sound of it and by its grip on the grindstone. If it
is soft it cuts rapidly, grips the stone hard and gives a dull, dead
sound. If hard, it gives a ringing sound and the stone glides
smoothly under it, cutting slowly and wearing the steel bright.
The woodsman cannot take a grindstone into the woods and the best
substitute is a file. I always choose a flat mill file about eight
inches long. Always push the file from well back on the bit down to
the edge, and never from the edge towards the eye of the ax, or you
will be almost certain to cut your hands before you have finished.
After the filing, whet the ax until you have a smooth, sharp edge.
It will be evident that an ax that must be kept sharp with a file and
whetstone must not be too hard, for a file will not cut hard steel.
The axes sold by the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indian trappers are
very soft, so that they may be filed easily, and the Indian files
only on the edge, so that the ax soon has a bevel almost equal to a
chisel. The average Indian takes just about as much care of an ax as
a woman does of a butcher knife.
As the minister says, "Just one word more," and that is in regard to
carrying the ax on the trail. I have tried many ways, but do not find
anything more satisfactory than having a leather pouch to slip over
the head of the ax and tucking it head down in the pack. When drawing
a toboggan it is slipped under the binding cords. If I am carrying my
outfit and do not have a gun, I carry the ax in my hand, which is the
most satisfactory way on such occasions. The Indian thrusts his ax
through his sash, handle to the rear and blade down, but I never
fancied that way of carrying an ax.