Most fires to-day are started by means of matches, so, as a starting
place we will first consider the match. Insignificant little
stick--500 for five cents--yet that tiny match can start a fire that
would destroy a city or lay a hundred miles of forest in ruin! Many a
life has been saved by a match, and many millions, yes billions of
dollars worth of property has been destroyed by the same
insignificant little stick. It is on one hand one of the greatest
providers of comfort that science has produced, and on the other the
most powerful destroyer known to man. There are various kinds of
matches, each having properties peculiar to itself, but we will
compare only the most common kinds and judge them from the woodsman's
standpoint.
I believe the first matches to come into use were made of a sulfurous
compound and such matches are still used in large quantities in
Canada. They are generally considered superior to ordinary parlor
matches for woodsman's use, but I cannot see that they possess any
advantages whatever. They are just as difficult to light as parlor
matches, if not more so, just as easily blown out, and just as
susceptible to dampness. They are noiseless, which is in their favor,
but they throw off disagreeable fumes when lighted. They are reliable
matches for the woodsman, although I would take parlor matches in
preference.
We have also the little, so-called "safety" matches now so much used
by smokers. They are convenient for carrying and get their name from
their refusal to light when struck on any surface other than the side
of the box in which they are packed. But this very quality makes them
unfit to light a fire in a wind if one must hold in his hand the
match-box as well as the burning match, for he cannot "cup" his hands
perfectly. This is worth remembering, for out of doors, there is
nearly always enough wind to make trouble when building a fire.
Another fault of the safety match is its small size; it is apt to be
entirely consumed before the fire can be started. The parlor match
then is the match for the woodsman, and he should have a bountiful
supply when he turns his back on civilization.
The stock of matches should be kept in a waterproof case of some
kind. A screw top jar is very good if one has it in camp, but
glassware is not practical for camping trips and something less
fragile but equally waterproof should be found. I have a kodak tank
developing outfit, the metal tank of which is excellent for holding
matches. The cover locks on by a partial turn and is watertight,
while the tank holds enough matches for a whole winter's use.
Of course the woodsman will carry with him on his sojourns from camp
only a small quantity of matches and at least a few of them should
either be so treated as to render them impervious to water, or be
carried in a watertight box. It sometimes happens that the traveler
in the woods gets caught in a drenching rain, or he may fall into the
water, and unless some provision has been made for keeping the
matches dry there will be no more smokes or tea until he gets back to
camp. Sometimes more serious consequences may follow such negligence;
for instance, the traveler may break through the ice and without a
fire may freeze to death. Almost every outdoor man can recall
instances where dry matches would at least have added materially to
his comfort.
There are various ways of waterproofing matches. They may be dipped
in melted paraffine, which will keep them perfectly dry, and when the
protecting wax is removed they will be in first class condition.
Varnishes of one kind or another will serve the same purpose.
But a waterproof box is more reliable and convenient. There is one
match-box on the market that is very efficient. It is somewhat
difficult to open, especially when one's hands are cold, but for all
of that it is the best thing I know of, and as its contents are to be
used only in emergency cases the woodsman may be content with the box
as it is. I have seen match-boxes made from brass shotgun shells
which were practically waterproof if kept tightly closed, but
sometimes it is difficult to remove the cover. A small glass bottle
is also good for carrying matches and is frequently used for this
purpose.
[Illustration: LIGHTING A MATCH IN THE WIND.]
It is an easy matter to light a match; but to start a fire is
something different, and to build a fire when the wind is blowing is
often difficult. Even the simple lighting of a pipe in the wind is
very uncertain with many smokers. I have seen men out in an exposed
place strike match after match in a vain endeavor to light a pipe.
Yet rightly done the trick is easy. It is all right to get behind a
tree if one is near; but it is not at all necessary. In all cases the
man should turn his face towards the wind and as soon as he strikes
the match, form a cup of his hands and thus shelter the burning
match. Then it is easy to thrust the bowl of the pipe into his hands
to the burning match. A fire can be started in the same way, but it
is a little more difficult and less certain. The kindling must be
properly arranged with the part to be lighted projecting towards the
breeze, and sufficiently separated from other objects, so that the
fire builder may enclose this part in the shelter of his hands, along
with the match, and thus protect the flame until the kindling is
fairly lighted. Often a sheet of bark dropped against the tiny flame
will protect it until it gathers strength. A dry surface on which to
strike a match is essential and the woodsman must use his knowledge
of suitable surfaces to help him out of his trouble. A pocket
match-box usually has one side roughened for this purpose. A very
practical idea is to sew a small strip of emery cloth on the inside
of the coat, the upper half being loose so that it folds down over
the other half and thus keeps the rough surface from contact with the
clothing. The back of a pocket-knife, the butt plate of a gun, or a
key may also be made to answer. Of natural surfaces the side of a
stone or the dry trunk of a tree may serve. But the most common
scheme is to utilize the trouser leg for striking matches and as long
as the clothing is dry it is certainly the most convenient surface
for this purpose.
When a match gets wet, if the head is not so much softened that it
rubs off the stick, there is hope. Rubbing the match through the hair
will dry it in an amazingly short time.
There is no right or wrong way to make a fire unless it is to be used
for some special purpose, in which case we must know how the fire is
to be used and build it accordingly. As a rule a cooking fire is
built differently from one that is designed merely to give warmth.
But we must always take into consideration the strength of the wind,
whether the fire is for boiling, baking or frying food, and whether a
quick or slow heat is wanted, for each and all call for a different
kind of fire. The variety of wood and its condition must also be
considered.
For most kinds of cooking only a small fire is required, in fact we
get better results from a small flame. But it is essential that we
have some arrangement whereby the cooking utensils will be held
steadily and securely. The most common practice is to place the
kettle or frying pan on top of the fuel, shifting the wood about
until the utensils set level. It is about the most unsatisfactory
method, outside of holding them by hand, and many a meal has been
upset into the fire simply because the cook would not take the
trouble to provide a suitable place to prepare the meal. The simplest
way of suspending a kettle over the fire is by hanging it from the
end of a stick which has been thrust into the ground at an angle of
about 20 degrees. In the woods of the north this method is used
generally for boiling. When the bushman stops for tea, which is
always the most essential and important part of his repast, he builds
a fire, then cuts a stick an inch or a little more in thickness and
about four feet long, and thrusts it into the ground in such a way
that when the tea-pail is suspended from the end it hangs at just the
right height above the fire. Only a small fire is required, but it
should give a clear, steady flame, for the water should be brought to
a boil quickly.
For frying, baking, etc., I find an arrangement of two small green
logs, flattened on top and bottom, and placed side by side about a
half foot apart, the most satisfactory thing for holding the utensils
securely. Between these logs a small fire is made, and there is no
danger of the food spilling into the fire, or the handles of the
utensils becoming so hot that they have to be moved with sticks. For
a single utensil, like a frying pan, I find two straight-sided stones
placed the right distance apart, fully as good as the logs, and only
a few embers from the camp fire will be needed for the cooking.
[Illustration: FIRES FOR COOKING.]
Almost everybody who camps for the night builds a campfire, in fact,
without it a camp would seem far from complete, even though the night
is a warm one. Cooking, however, should be done over a smaller fire
placed nearby.
There are a lot of little helpful wrinkles regularly used by woodsmen
that can hardly be imparted to the green-hand because of their
number, their insignificance, and the fact that each must be adapted
to the prevailing condition, but they immediately brand the user as
an old hand at the game. They are simply the result of experience and
are used almost unconsciously. I refer to such things as the manner
of placing wood on the fire, handling embers, moving cooking
utensils, etc. It is the knowledge of how to do such little things as
this that makes the work of the expert look so easy and run along so
smoothly, while Mr. Amateur is having all kinds of trouble. There is
no way to acquire this knowledge except by long experience, or by
working in company with one who has "been there."
I know a way of building a very good combination heating and cooking
fire, which may be used during rainy weather more satisfactorily than
any other kind with which I am acquainted. Two small green logs about
five feet long, are placed side by side about 20 inches apart. Two
shorter logs are then placed across the ends and another five-foot
log laid lengthwise on top. The fire is built between the two bottom
logs and directly under the one which has been placed on top. Then
pieces of green wood are stood up against one side so that they rest
against the top and one of the bottom logs. This forms a roof over
the fire and the cooking is done over the open front, between the
logs. The roof burns away slowly on the under side and as the sticks
burn off they are added to the fire beneath and others placed on top
to keep the roof built up. This is a good style of fire to reflect
heat into the camp and is excellent for use with a metal baker.
[Illustration: A FIRE FOR RAINY DAYS.]
The regulation method of building a fire for heating an open-camp is
to place it against a large green log, or against a ledge of rock, a
wall of stones built up artificially, or a pile of short green logs
resting against two stakes which have been driven at a slight
incline. The fire burns best when there are two short pieces of wood
placed crosswise on the ground on which the fuel may rest and leave
an opening for draft beneath. Green wood is best for holding fire;
but it must be mixed with good dry wood, or it will not burn well.
The selection of wood for the camp-fire is important. Standing dead
trees are always drier than those which have fallen, unless the
fallen trees are held up sufficiently above the ground to keep them
well dried. Wood cut on low, damp ground is not as good as that found
on higher places and usually pops and throw sparks into the blankets,
which make it objectionable.
Almost all kinds of dry, hard wood burn readily and throw off plenty
of heat. They also burn to embers and hard wood therefore should be
selected when a bed of live coals is needed. Of the soft wood dry
pine and cedar burn freely, but are consumed quickly, leave no embers
and make a lot of smoke. They are excellent wood for kindling and for
use in connection with green, hard wood. Green pine, cedar, fir and
tamarack burn slowly and require much dry wood to help keep them
burning. White birch is excellent for camp-fires; dry or green and
dry tamarack is one of the best of camp-fire woods.
There are various woods that answer well for kindling and the camper
must always find something that will be good for this purpose. Dry
white-pine and cedar shavings and splints light readily from the
match, but dead "fat" pine is much better. Pine knots, remaining
after the log has rotted away, when split are heavy and yellow with
dried pitch and if split into splinters will burn like oil. An old
pine log is often in the same condition, and if the camper can find
any wood of this kind he should take some to camp so that he will not
need to hunt about for a suitable wood for starting a fire. In the
north where there is little pine timber such kindling is scarce; but
nature has provided an excellent substitute in white-birch bark. The
loose bark hanging to the tree trunks contains an oil which causes it
to light readily from the match and burn with a bright flame and a
hissing noise. When traveling in the northern bush during cold
weather I frequently carried a bunch of birch bark in the top of my
pack, so that if I wanted to build a fire quickly I would not have to
hunt for kindling.
There is one more woodcraft trick that I think everybody who goes
into the woods should know. While the woodsman invariably carries an
axe with which to cut firewood, there may come a time when he has no
axe and is obliged to camp out over night. Then getting together
sufficient wood to keep fire over night is a real problem. Sometimes
he can find a place where one tree has fallen across another, or if
not, perhaps he can throw one over the other, and at the place where
they cross he should build his fire. Then when the logs burn through
he can move them and either keep shoving the ends into the fire as
they burn away, or perhaps cross the pieces again and burn them into
shorter and lighter pieces which can be handled readily.
In building any kind of a fire the camper should remember that flame
naturally moves upward, so that the wood should be lighted from
beneath. It is hard to get a fire started in any other way. He should
also remember that the wind drives the fire forward and should light
the wood under the windward side. The finest kindling should be
placed first, then finely split dry wood on top, coarser wood on top
of this, etc. The heavy wood should never rest too much on the
kindling or the latter will be crushed down into such a dense mass
that it will not burn and the wood must never be placed so that the
sticks fit closely together; a criss-cross style is much better.
These are all simple little rules and easy to remember, but it is
necessary to know them that camp-fire troubles may be avoided.