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RAMBLES in YUCATAN
[Illustration: MOON LIGHT, UXMAL RUINS.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
RAMBLES in YUCATAN
INCLUDING
A VISIT TO THE REMARKABLE RUINS
OF
CHI-CHEN, Kahbah, ZAYI, UXMAL &c.
[Illustration: SISAL.]
BY B. M. NORMAN.
NEW•YORK,
J. & H. G. LANGLEY, 57 CHATHAM STREET.
MDCCCXLIII.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
RAMBLES in YUCATAN;
OR,
NOTES OF TRAVEL THROUGH THE PENINSULA,
INCLUDING
A VISIT TO THE REMARKABLE RUINS
OF
CHI-CHEN, Kahbah, ZAYI, AND UXMAL.
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.
BY B. M. NORMAN.
SECOND EDITION.
NEW YORK:
J. & H. G. LANGLEY, 57 CHATHAM STREET.
PHILADELPHIA: THOMAS, COWPERTHWAIT, & CO.
NEW ORLEANS: NORMAN, STEEL, & CO.
MDCCCXLIII.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1842,
BY J. & H. G. LANGLEY,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, for
the Southern District
of New York.
STEREOTYPED BY REDFIELD AND SAVAGE,
13 Chambers street, N. Y.
R. CRAIGHEAD, PRINTER, 112 FULTON ST.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
PREFACE.
-------
To those who intend to bestow upon the following pages the honor of a
perusal, it may seem almost supererogatory for the author to mention,
that it has formed no part of his purpose to prepare a book which should
owe its leading interest to its literary merits. His life has been
necessarily more devoted to the dissemination of books than to the study
of their internal fabrication; he has had but slender opportunities for
the cultivation of letters, and little of the preparation requisite for
a task, to the results of which he now solicits the candid consideration
of the public.
Circumstances, however, of which all that is worthy of detail will be
found in the following pages, brought under the author’s observation a
portion of our continent which was strewed with gigantic and monumental
ruins of ancient cities, and which, to the several departments of
Cosmogony, Archæology, and Ethnography, appeared in his eyes to be of
vast importance. Impressed with this conviction, although the author
left his country without the remotest intention of making a book upon
any subject whatever, or even of seeing the wonderful places he has
attempted to describe, yet, with very inadequate scientific
qualifications—without instruments, except a knife and compass, and
without a companion, save an Indian boy—entirely ignorant of the country
and its people—he was enabled to explore many objects of interest and
curiosity; and he has resolved to present the substance of his
observations and researches, in as succinct a manner as possible, that
those who are competent to avail themselves of his labors may digest and
present them to the public in such a form as will most contribute to the
advancement of true science.
It is, therefore, to the facts which it has been the author’s privilege
to witness and reveal, and not to the garniture of those facts, that he
looks, for the interest which he desires to awaken in the minds of his
readers, and upon which he relies for his own justification in having
for once trespassed _ultra crepidam_ into the charmed circle of literary
enterprise. The almost universal curiosity which has manifested itself
in every quarter through which public feeling has utterance, concerning
the vast and unexplained ruins of our hemisphere, found in Central
America and Yucatan, has not been, in modern times at least, excelled by
that upon any subject not involving some immediate and practical
interest, not even excepting the discoveries of modern antiquarians in
Egypt. It is neither the author’s duty nor purpose to analyze this
movement, or to discern its cause; it only concerns him to show that he
had good reason for presuming that further developments of, and
explorations among these mysterious relics of antiquity, could not fail
to awaken some portion of that interest which the public mind, in this
country at least, has already manifested.
A portion of the ruins which are noticed in detail in the following
pages had never been visited, to the author’s knowledge, by any modern
traveller before his arrival. Others, which had been summarily alluded
to, he has portrayed as elaborately and adequately as his circumstances
and scientific qualifications would admit; and, he has no hesitation in
saying, far more minutely than they had ever before been described. In
corroboration of these remarks, he ventures to call the reader’s
attention to the chapters which include the ruins of Chi-Chen, of
Kahbah, Zayi, and Uxmal, of which cities, the last only excepted—to
which Mr. Stephens devotes a few sentences near the conclusion of his
recent popular work upon this subject—no other published accounts, it is
believed, have appeared.
The author avails himself of the present opportunity to make those
acknowledgments to the people of Yucatan which could not be incorporated
with propriety in the body of his work. He feels himself under grateful
obligations for the uniform kindness which he received at their hands;
and he begs to assure those of his American friends who may feel
disposed to visit the province of Yucatan, that whatever inconveniences
they may experience indirectly from an unfavorable climate and an
unsettled political organization, they may count upon meeting, among the
higher ranks of the Yucatecos, a kindliness of feeling and a spontaneity
of hospitality which will compare favorably with their experience in any
other portion of the globe.
In acknowledging his obligations to the friends who have assisted him in
the preparation of these pages, he would be guilty of great injustice
did he not tender his most sincere thanks to an American gentleman, who
has long resided in Yucatan, to whom he is indebted for most of the
facts connected with the political history of that country, which are
embodied in the thirteenth chapter. The long residence of that gentleman
in the country, and his evident familiarity with its political history,
give the author reason to rely implicitly upon his acquaintance with the
subject, as well as upon his fidelity as an historian.
The author regrets that he is not permitted to give the name of the
gentleman to whose aid he is indebted for the philological remarks
contained in the fourteenth chapter, which he ventures to believe will
prove to the scholar and the antiquarian not the least interesting
feature of the work.
It has been the author’s intention upon all occasions to acknowledge his
indebtedness to any preceding or cotemporary writer in appropriate modes
and places in the text, and he believes that he has seldom failed in his
aim; at the same time, he feels that to Waldeck, a distinguished French
traveller, who spent a number of years in Central America and Yucatan,
his obligations are of a character not to be passed over without a
special acknowledgment.
The illness of the writer during the time the following pages were
passing through the press, must constitute his apology, should
inaccuracies be found to disfigure the work.
The Map is intended to show the geographical position of the ruins, and
of the towns passed through before arriving at them; and the Plans to
define the relative locations of the structures, neither of them,
however, is laid out with scientific exactness; it is hoped,
nevertheless, they will still be found sufficiently correct to
illustrate the descriptions.
If the public shall find the work now submitted to them possessed of
sufficient merit to deserve their regard, or if others shall be induced,
by reading it, to extend their researches in a similar direction, or
shall, through its aid, eliminate one new ray of light to illumine the
dark mystery of its subject, the author will feel amply compensated for
the trouble he has taken, and will think himself entitled to indulge the
assurance that his life has not been altogether without profit.
NEW ORLEANS, November, 1842.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CONTENTS.
CHAP. PAGE
I. Setting Out—Accommodations—Arrival at 13
Sisal—Geographical and Political view
of Yucatan—A Christening—Lady
Smokers—Off for the Interior—Merida—A
Feast-day—Christmas Eve—Christmas
Day—Conclusion of a Feast—Holy
Unction—Indian Character—Soldiers’
Return—Holy Days—Gaming
II Description of Merida, Geographical and 34
Historical—The City—Public Squares—The
Market—Trade—Habits and
Customs—Health—The Public Buildings—A
way to get a Husband—New Year Eve—New
Year Day—The City and Environs—A Touch
of Music—A Country Seat—Congress of
Yucatan—Franciscan Ruins—More
Holy-days—Cock-fighting—A Drill—The
Bishop at Home—The College—Miracles
III Mechanical Pursuits—The Circulating 53
Medium—A Ball—A Remnant of
Franciscans—Signs of Decay in the
Suburbs—The Cemetery—The Weather—A
Whole Congregation Flogged—The Wise
Men—The Gentlemen—Extra Civilities—The
Appearances of Trade—Products of the
Soil—Education—Language of the
Indians—The Ancient People—Waldeck’s
Opinion of them—The Maya Language—The
Lord’s Prayer in Maya—Grammars of that
Dialect—Difficulties in Speaking
it—Traits of the Indian Character
IV Preparations for the Interior—Outfit, 73
&c.—The Indian Boy—Departure from
Merida—Arrival at Tixcoco—Calcachen—A
Feast-day—Isamal at a distance—Arrival
there—Our Palace—A Procession—Ancient
Mounds—The Church—A striking
Indian—Wrong Impressions—Tuncax—A
Dilemma—Philosophy of the Road-side—A
Dinner—Visit to a Curate—A Touch of
Comfort—Mail Carrier—Sitax—An Indian
Alcalde—Tinum—An Allusion—Valladolid—A
Mistake rectified in time
V Festival of the Purification—A Factory 91
discovered—New Quarters—Appearance of
Public Buildings—Church—Singular
Display of Taste—Population and
Health—The Town—Its Suburbs—Monastic
Ruins—Remarkable Sonato—Amusements—The
Riband Dance—The Market
Place—Cotton—Ancient
Ruins—Difficulties of Strangers—A
Norther—Kaua—The Churlish Curate—End
of a Feast—The Route—Approach to
Chi-Chen—A Glimpse of the Ruins
VI A Visit to the Ruins—Reflections—Indian 108
Visiters—Detail of the Ruins of
Chi-Chen—The Temple—The Pyramid—The
Dome—The House of the Caciques—General
Ruins—Mounds—Foundations—Characteristics
of the Ruins—Materials and Manner of
Building—The Finish—Fresco Paintings
VII An Arrival—Unexpected Honors—Usurpation 129
of Office—Prices of Labor—Indian way
of Living—A Sonato—An
Incident—Departure—Yacaba—Sonato at
Tabi—Arrival at Sotuta—“Las Ruinas”—A
Benediction—Cantamayec—Turn
Physician—Successful Practice—The
Reward of Merit—Route to Teabo—Its
Curate—Mani—Arrival at
Ticul—Description of Ticul—The
Church—Curate—Market-place—Pretty
Women—Convent—Occupations—Health—Roads—Sugar
Estates—Ruins of
Ichmul—Departure—Cross the Cordilleras
VIII The Ruins of Kahbah—Those of 148
Zayi—Scattered Ruins—Church at
Nohcacab—The Padre—The Town—Departure
for Uxmal—Arrival at the
Hacienda—Quarters and Arrangements—The
Scenery—General Character of the Ruins
of Uxmal—The Governor’s House—The
Nuns’ House—The Pyramid—Other
Remains—Pyramids, Walls, and
Mounds—Reservoir—Moonlight
IX Introductory Facts—Ruins of Yucatan and 168
other parts of Mexico—Ruins of North
America—Mississippi and
Missouri—Look-Out Mountain—Ohio
River—Mount Joliet and others—Indian
Races—Ledyard—Bradford—Dr.
Morton—Diversity of Opinions—Pyramids
of
Egypt—Speculations—Vassalage—Comparison—Traditions—Embalming—Priesthood—
Siamese—Japanese—Astronomy and
Mythology
X Waldeck’s Remarks on Uxmal—Ancient 183
Tools—Soil and Health—Ancient
Customs—End of Time—The Coronation of
an Emperor—Religious Beliefs—Marriage
Ceremony—Infant Baptism—Origin of
those Rites—Horse
Worship—Amusements—Markets—Idols—Candidates
for Matrimony—Their Worship
Varies—Refinements
XI Departure from Uxmal—Abala—The Road—The 199
Curate’s Hacienda—Arrival at
Merida—Hotel de Diligencias—Bishop
Preaching—Strange Scenes—Parting with
José—Departure from Merida—Coach and
Passengers—Scenes of the
Road—Zibackchen—Accommodations—Arrival
at Campeachy
XII Reception at Campeachy—The City—Public 209
Buildings—The Convent—The
Market—Charity—An Ancient
Custom—Population—The
College—Foundations of the
City—Subterraneous Caverns—The
Suburbs—The Harbor—Climate and
Health—Various Ruins—The Author’s
Collection of Idols—Dr. Morton on the
Archæology of Yucatan—Other
Ruins—Reptiles and Insects—A Concealed
Nation—The Brothers Camachos
XIII Political History of Yucatan—The 224
Rochelanos—A Civil Revolution—A
Tumultuary Movement in the
Interior—Santiago Iman—Attack on
Espita—Retreat to San Fernando—Quiet
Restored for a Time—Colonel
Roqueña—Attack on Tizimin—Return of
the Troops—Attack on
Valladolid—Capitulation—Succession of
Events—A New Constitution—The New
Congress—New Party—Opinions—Physical
Incapacity for Independence—The Press
of Yucatan
XIV Remarks on American Languages in 236
general—Conflicting Opinions of
Philologists—Religious Zeal a Stimulus
that has produced the Grammars and
Vocabularies of the American
Languages—Sketch of the Grammar of the
Maya Tongue—Concluding Observations
respecting its Origin
------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPENDIX.
A Brief Maya Vocabulary 303
Numbers, 1 to 100 311
Tradition of the Mexican Natives respecting 313
their Migration from the North
Traits of the Mosaic History found among the 317
Azteca Nations
Origin of Fire-Worship 327
Great Stone Calendar of the Mexicans 329
Scientific Acquirements of Ancient Builders 333
in the West
Predilection of the Ancients to Pyramids 336
The Remains of Cities 339
Ruins of the City of Otolum, discovered in 340
North America
Ancient Languages of the First Inhabitants of 349
America
Historical Sketch of Mexico 354
FOOTNOTES. 363
------------------------------------------------------------------------
LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS.
PAGE
MAP 12
Moonlight—Uxmal Ruins FRONTISPIECE
Vignette Title-page
Indians of Yucatan 30
The Plantain Tree 33
Yucateco Indian’s House 72
The Road-side 90
Sonato near Valladolid 98
PLAN OF THE RUINS OF CHI-CHEN 108
Indian knife and sheath 111
Ornaments of Buildings 112
The Temple 112
The Pyramid 115
The Dome 118
The Front of the House of the Caciques 119
The House of the Caciques 120
Ornaments of Buildings 121
The Agave Americana 128
Zayi Ruins 150
PLAN OF THE RUINS OF UXMAL 155
Façade of the Governor’s House 156
Ornaments of Building 157, 158
The Governor’s House 158
The Nuns’ House 160
Ornaments 159, 159, 162
The Pyramid 162
The Pigeon Houses 165
Yucatan Coach Crossing the Mountains 199
Campeachy 209
Plate No. I.—Idols 216
Plate No. II.—Four Idols 216
Plate No. III.—Four Idols 216
Plate No. IV.—Fragments of Idols or Ornaments 216
Plate No. V.—Vessels 216
Plate No. VI.—Turtle and Household Utensils 216
Vignettes, &c., &c.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration: Map of Yucatan Mexico]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
RAMBLES IN YUCATAN.
CHAPTER I.
Setting Out—Accommodations—Arrival at Sisal—Geographical and Political
view of Yucatan—A Christening—Lady Smokers—Off for the
Interior—Merida—A Feast-day—Christmas Eve—Christmas Day—Conclusion of
a Feast—Holy Unction—Indian Character—Soldiers’ Return—Holy
Days—Gaming.
The prospect of leaving one’s country for a season, affects different
people in very different ways. To some, it suggests only the loss of
friends, and the want of the conveniences which habit may have made to
them the necessaries of life. By their formidable equipments, their
groaning trunks, and systematic leave-takings, they intimate a foregone
conclusion, that every nation except their own is peopled with
Ishmaelites, whose hands are ever raised against the rest of mankind.
There is another class, who have faith in man wherever he exists, and
who rely upon the permanence of the laws of Nature; who do not imagine
that a man is necessarily a cannibal or a troglodyte because born in a
different degree of latitude, nor that water will refuse to run down
hill at a foreigner’s request. Through their confidence in the
uniformity of Nature’s laws, they feel it unnecessary to equip
themselves for a campaign into chaos when they leave their native land,
always presuming every corner of this planet, however remote from the
illuminating centres of civilization, to be possessed of some of the
elements of existence, such as air, fire, water, &c., which a traveller
may spare himself the trouble of bringing from home in his trunk. With
the latter class, kind reader, the author of the following notes
deserves to be associated. He would require nothing but a valise to
contain his outfit for a circumnavigation of the globe, and would
include the moon in his circuit, if practicable, without materially
enlarging his equipage, except, perhaps, by some device that would
diminish the inconveniences of a rarefied atmosphere. This faith in the
future, this trust in the resources which a mind of ordinary
intelligence can always command under any sun and in any clime,
sustained the writer in his determination, last fall, to visit some of
the islands of the West India seas, almost without notice, and with
scarcely more preparation than a domestic man would deem essential for
an absence from home of a single week. The cork-legged merchant of
Rotterdam did not commence his journeyings more unexpectedly to himself,
nor less formidably panoplied against the emergencies of his unfortunate
tour. To the writer’s unpreparedness, a term which, in such cases,
usually signifies freedom from anxiety, he feels indebted for most of
the pleasure which this excursion has afforded him; and he has only
cause to regret the want of more elaborate preparation, inasmuch as it
may have deprived these pages of a portion of their interest and value.
It was at the conclusion of the long and frightful season of epidemic
disease, which caused many a desolated home in New Orleans to be hung
with cypress during the summer of the year 1841, and on the 26th day of
November, that I embarked from the Crescent city for Havana. My original
intention had been, to visit the Windward Islands; but, not finding the
facilities of intercommunication which I had anticipated, and excited by
the curiosity of seeing a region of country of which but little is known
to citizens of the United States, I was induced to change my
contemplated route. Accordingly, after a detention of ten days in Cuba,
where I had passed some of the happiest days of my youth, I resolved to
embrace the first opportunity that presented itself to run down to the
coast of Mexico. I was soon enabled to secure a passage on board of a
Spanish brig bound to Sisal, of which I was prompt to avail myself.
Early on the morning of the 9th of December, we slipped by the Moro
Castle with a fine breeze, and had but just effected a good offing when
the vessel was suddenly hove to, much to our surprise and alarm, and
without any apparent reason. Our alarms were soon dispelled, however, by
the welcome intelligence, through the cabin-boy, that “breakfast was
ready!” Our own countrymen are not indifferent to the “family comforts,”
and the English relish still less any interruption at their meals; but
with the Spaniard eating seems to have risen to the importance of a
religious ceremony. Heaving to for breakfast, in a Yankee craft, would
be looked at with astonishment by an American tar—we question if it
would not cancel the ship’s insurance policy. Every country, however,
has its customs, and this is one peculiar to the flag under which we
were now sailing. The meal happily ended, the yards were squared away,
and the brig quietly pursued her course.
The cabin formed a part of the hold, without berths, bulk-heads, tables,
or chairs. Planks were laid down for our accommodation, upon which our
mattresses were distributed, the cargo forming sides, which, as the
vessel rolled, served to retain us in our places. There were eight
Mexican fellow-passengers, perfect out-and-outers in the way of eating,
sleeping, and smoking, which they seemed to consider the ends for which
they lived and moved and had their being. The captain proved to be a
right good sailor, and his vessel, which was dignified by the name of a
packet, shall be suffered to pass without censure, as deserving a better
fate than awaited Sodom, in having at least one good man on board in the
person of her excellent commander. After eleven days of continually
pleasant weather we arrived in sight of the port of Sisal, on the
north-west coast of Yucatan, on the 20th of the month; and, as the bills
of lading might conscientiously have testified, “in good order and
well-conditioned.”
This coast presents a line of shore scarcely merging from the ocean,
with no distinguishing highland to conduct the mariner to his destined
port. The unpretending little town to which our course was directed, at
this time, however, very innocently on its own part, loomed up from the
horizon to an immense height, and it was not until we had approached
very near the land that our false impressions were corrected.
We came to anchor about two miles from the shore, that being as near as
it was deemed prudent for vessels of our burden to venture. A felucca,
manned by three Indians, now boarded us, for the purpose of receiving
the passengers. The place of landing was a long pier-head, loosely put
together, composed of spiles and plank, the only one in the harbor where
the imports and exports are received and shipped. When once fairly on
terra firma, we all started under the escort of our worthy captain for a
public house, followed by a retinue of Indians, that gave us for a time
at least the consequential appearance of Eastern nabobs. This numerous
troop belonged professionally to the class which in our Northern cities
besiege the wharves upon the arrival of a steamboat, as hackmen,
porters, dock loafers, &c., but in justice to the Indians be it
observed, that they are much less clamorous and more civil than their
more pretentious brethren of the North.
Early on the morning of our arrival, our baggage was sent to the
custom-house; but the politeness of the gentlemen attached to that
establishment made the examination a matter of mere form. This civility
is acknowledged with the greater pleasure, in consequence of its having
been accorded without solicitation, and contrary to our expectation.
With the permission of my reader I will here step aside, for one moment,
from the detail of my ramblings, to say a single word about the
geographical and political condition of the country in which I now found
myself a denizen, pledging myself, however, to detain the narrative upon
nothing which will not be pertinent to and explanatory of the subsequent
pages.
The peninsula of Yucatan extends over a surface of some eighty thousand
square miles, lying in a north-east direction from Laguna de Términos,
and jutting out north into the Gulf of Mexico, between the Bay of
Campeachy and Honduras. It is about five hundred miles long, and one
hundred and sixty broad, and is divided into five departments, eighteen
districts, and containing two hundred and thirty-six towns. It is
inhabited by something short of half a million of people, the majority
of whom are Indians.
The country is almost one entire plain, half of which, to the north,
consists of a light soil formed upon solid and broken masses of a white
lime and flint rock. The other, the southern half, is a deep rich loam,
but much affected by the heavy rains of summer, which present serious
obstructions to the exertions of the agriculturist. There are no rivers
in the interior. The inhabitants are supplied with water from sonatos,
or natural wells, which are liberally distributed throughout the country
by the formation of supposed subterraneous rivers.
Yucatan was formerly a part of the Mexican confederacy, but having
recently declared her independence, she has her own President and
Congress of legislators, elected by a limited class of qualified
electors. Various attempts have been made, by menaces and by offers of
negotiation on the part of the Mexicans, to reduce the refractory
provincials to their allegiance, but hitherto without success. The
deficiency of means, and the distracted condition of the Confederacy at
home, have doubtless prevented the Mexicans from qualifying their
diplomacy with physical force, which is probably the only kind of logic
that will be conclusive.
Sisal, the place (as I have already mentioned) at which I disembarked,
is situated upon the north-west side of the peninsula of Yucatan, and is
the second port of the province. It presents an open roadstead, which,
during the prevalence of the northerly winds, is considered very
dangerous. The continuance of these storms frequently compels vessels to
get under way and stand out to sea. The town has little of interest to
strangers. Its population is about one thousand, consisting principally
of Indians, and the residue are Mexicans. The houses are built of stone,
are one story high, covering a large space of ground, with a court in
the centre, embellished with trees and plants of the tropics. The roofs
of the dwellings being thatched, give to the streets a somewhat singular
aspect to strangers. The rooms of these buildings are large and airy,
and their floors are formed of mortar and sand. Glass is not used; but
large openings are formed, protected by gratings and doors, which admit
the necessary supply of light and air.
Near the beach is a small square fortification, rudely constructed and
oddly enough garrisoned, if one may judge from the appearance of the
soldiers upon guard. The Indians, who exclusively perform the menial
services required throughout the country, seem to be happy and
contented. Their wants are few and simple. The men wear loose white
cotton trousers, extending a little below the knee, with a shirt of the
same, or striped gingham, a palm-leaf hat and sandals. The women wear a
simple loose dress hanging from the shoulders, loose about the neck, and
falling negligently to the ankles. These garments are more or less
ornamented with needle-work, according to the taste or the means of the
wearer.
Although so near home, this scene was so entirely new to me, that I was
exceedingly anxious to get a glimpse of the surrounding country.
Unsuccessful, however, in finding an immediate conveyance to Merida, the
capital of the province, we loitered about the town during the day, but
could not discover any very especial signs of business. Every thing
appeared to be dull and inanimate.
In the evening we were invited, through the politeness of the Collector
of the Port, to attend the baptismal ceremony of his infant. The priest
was early at his post, and the whole population of Indians was soon
collected about the dwelling, and preparations were made for a grand
procession to the church, where the child was to be baptized. Every
thing being in readiness, the whole mass started, led off by half-breed
Indians and boys, making all kinds of discordant sounds, with drums,
horns, and whistles; then the priest and the parents, with the child
dressed out with flowers and ribands, and gold and silver ornaments;
after these came the relations and friends, followed by the multitude.
When they had arrived at the church, the performances were conducted in
the usual Catholic style. The child appeared to be the only one who had
any cause of complaint. The rough hands of the priest, and the continual
pouring of cold water upon its delicate head, fully justified its
boisterous protestations against such harsh treatment. Its restoration
to the arms of its mother seemed to give great satisfaction to all
parties present, except perhaps to the deaf and the blind.
The company now returned to the house. On the route, small pieces of
silver coin were distributed among the Indians. The evening was spent,
as is the custom on such occasions, in the greatest hilarity; and none
appeared to enjoy it with a better relish than the priest. Dancing was
kept up till nine o’clock, when supper was announced. The ladies being
seated, a place was assigned to me by the side of the divine, to whom I
had previously been introduced. This secured to me a seat in the
vicinity of the choicest wit as well as wine, that was in circulation;
for, after paying his respects once or twice to the wine that was before
him, his good humor and sociability soon convinced me that he would not
willingly become the victim of too rigid fastings and carnal
mortifications.
Supper being over, dancing was resumed. Those ladies and gentlemen who
were not upon the floor, were smoking. The ladies here are general
smokers; and do it, too, with a grace which, to a smoker, is a study. At
first, it appeared rather strange to receive, from the delicate fingers
of a female, a lighted cigar, yet fresh with the flavor which her own
lips had imparted to it; but, with such tuition, we were quickly
qualified to assume the customs of the country, and we now flatter
ourselves that we can go through all that delicate etiquette with as
much ease as though we were “to the manner born.” The ladies were
dressed in the Spanish style, and appeared quite charming; they chiefly
require animation. Their complexion is rather brunette, their hair dark,
eyes black; and, generally, they are of a low stature.
We withdrew from the party at an early hour, after presenting our
sincere congratulations to the mother of the “orator of the day,” and
bidding adieu to the hospitable family. Once more in the street, we were
lost in meditation. The incidents of the day came into review before
us—the first day that we had passed here among strangers in a strange
land. We found ourselves absolutely regretting to part from friends of
an hour’s creation. He who has wandered much in the world may have
experienced similar sensations. These are some of the transitory
passages, “the sunny spots” of life, which memory most dearly cherishes.
They are snatched, as it were, from the dull round of existence, and are
sanctified by the unexpected gratification that attends them. These are
a part of the items that constitute what man calls happiness—the jewels,
no doubt; and we shall make them lawful prize wherever and whenever they
fall in our way. These reflections brought us to our lodgings, where
preparations were yet to be made for our departure for Merida the next
morning; and, in spite of old philosophy or new acquaintance,
“The hour approaches, Tam maun ride.”
At nine o’clock in the morning my conveyance was ready at the door. It
was a rude vehicle, called here a _calesa_, somewhat resembling the
old-fashioned New England chaise, but as heavy and uncouth as wood and
trappings could make it. The machine was drawn by three mules abreast,
attached to it by plaited ropes. All the preparations having been
completed, we started under whip and spur, Jehu-like, rattling over the
rocks, to the no small hazard of bones and baggage. Fortunately, this
speed did not continue long. The road, for two miles, was overflowed;
and the Indian guide was necessarily compelled to direct his team with a
greater degree of circumspection.
The road, for the first sixteen miles, was over a low marshy country,
partially Macadamized, and raised in the form of a causeway; rather
rough, but smooth compared with very many of our own, even in the State
of New York. The sides were filled in with brush-wood as far as
Hunucuma, about sixteen miles from Sisal. We stopped here, at noon, two
hours, to give our faithful mules an opportunity to refresh, after a
sultry morning’s travel. This pleasant village stands about half way
between Sisal and Merida, and is surrounded by beautiful shrubbery. From
this town, which possesses little interest to the foreign tourist, the
open country appears to advantage; but it is not under a high state of
cultivation. The road hence to Merida is finished in a style that would
have done credit to the imperial enterprise of Hadrian. We passed
through several small villages, occupied principally by the huts of the
Indians, and, at five o’clock in the afternoon of the 22d instant,
arrived at the metropolis, thirty-six miles distance from the place of
landing, and drove up to the door of the amiable Doña Michaelé, who
keeps the only public house in the city—not for her own personal
advantage, as she informs her guests, but solely for their
accommodation. Blessings on her kind heart, although her professions of
philanthropy “something smacked, something grew too,” yet we believed
every word of them, and made ourselves perfectly at home in the shortest
possible time.
The residence of this lady stands in about the centre of the city,
occupying a large space of ground, is one story high, with ranges of
rooms and stables, forming a square, which is filled with fruit-trees of
the tropics. The rooms are spacious and airy: they have large doors, and
balconied windows, grated, but without glass. The floors are laid with
stone, set in mortar. Of the Doña and her table, I may be permitted to
say, that when I paid my bill I felt that I had cancelled all the
obligations which her bounty had imposed upon me. Chocolate, with
“panadulza,” a sweet bread made by the nuns, is served early in the
morning, according to the general custom of the country; breakfast is
ready at nine o’clock, made up of Spanish American dishes, composed of
strips of meat, eggs, tortillas, and frejoles, (that is, corncake and
black beans,) with coffee and wine. Her guests consisted of two
Americans besides myself, who came here to trade, and remained, not to
pray, but to be preyed upon by the most dismal prospects—three Mexican
officers, who were exiled by Santa Ana; and three Spanish Jews, who were
from Havana, with merchandise. Dinner was served at three o’clock. The
Doña undoubtedly gave her boarders the best the market afforded, for she
certainly exerted herself to render them satisfied with their fare. It
would be absurd to enumerate dishes, and to object to the style of
cooking because it did not happen to be in accordance with my own
preferences or habits. Among the Mexicans of our company, however, it
may not be improper to remark, that etiquette in the disposition of
their food was but little observed; and knives and forks were
unceremoniously thrown aside for the more primitive utensils with which
nature had provided them.
The 23d of December was the festival of St. Christoval. It was made,
like all the saints’ days in Catholic countries, a gala-day. Measures
were taken accordingly, a week previous, to give to this festival its
full effect. In front of the church is a large square, around the sides
of which were placed poles and staging, forming an amphitheatre, adorned
with rude paintings of various animals, and dressed off with flags and
evergreens; the area of which was to be the scene of a modern
_bull-fight_. The morning was ushered in by the firing of guns and
squibs. The stores were closed, churches opened, bells ringing, and the
population was literally emptied into the streets. At twelve o’clock
signal rockets were fired, and the gates of the amphitheatre, which
appeared to be the principal point of attraction, were thrown open, and
a bull was led in by four Indians. Indians, mounted on horses, attacked
him with spears, whilst others goaded him almost to madness with barbed
sticks. A great noise was made with drums and horns, and by the
acclamations of the audience, composed of ladies and gentlemen of Merida
and its vicinity. The major part, however, of the assembly was composed
of Indians. This portion of the festival was continued during the day;
at the close of which the amphitheatre was deserted, and the neighboring
houses were filled with people, abandoning themselves to the excitements
of every variety of games, and to the dance.
This was the first bull-bait I had ever witnessed, and the impression it
left upon me I shall never forget. These spectacles, however, have been
so often and so graphically described by others, that it would be almost
presumption in me to attempt a description of the scene, or an analysis
of my own feelings. The performance disgusted me to a degree, and has
struck me as one of the most extraordinary psychological phenomena in
nature, that any body of human beings could be found to whom such
exhibitions should be, as they are to the Spanish, sources of the
deepest interest and excitement.
To-day I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of several
gentlemen of the place, who gave me a most cordial reception; among whom
was the President of Yucatan. He is a successful merchant, a plain,
unassuming, practical man; apparently, however, not much versed in
political intrigues. The people have recently declared themselves
independent of Mexico, and the government is now about sending
commissioners to the capital of that republic to treat with Santa Ana,
offering again to return to the Mexican Confederacy upon certain
conditions; which, if acceded to, will give to this province most
decided advantages, besides being still under the protection of the
Confederacy.
Christmas eve we passed upon the Alameda, the public promenade of the
city. The occasion brought together the great mass of the population.
The ladies were prettily dressed, with veils tastefully thrown over
their heads; and a beautiful moonlight evening was rendered still more
charming by their smiles. The great majority were Indians. Their white,
loose, cotton dress, bordered with colored needlework, with the janty
veil, carelessly worn, gives them an airy appearance, and embellishes
features that are naturally pleasant and mild. There probably were six
thousand Indians in this collection, mingling with the multitude,
without any apparent distinction of rank or race, quietly indulging
themselves in their walks. No loud talking or noisy merriment could be
heard. Everything appeared to be conducted in a spirit of harmony and
kind feeling. The temperance pledge was alike unnecessary and unknown.
At twelve o’clock (midnight) the crowd dispersed; a portion of them to
the cathedral, to attend the performance of high mass. An immense crowd
was assembled in this place. The aisles, domes, and fretted work of the
windows were illuminated. The sound of music and the voice of the priest
only were heard—all else was silence. The multitude knelt. It was an
imposing sight—the dark ages were forgotten; and the prejudices of a
thousand years were subdued in a moment. At two o’clock I left the
cathedral and returned to my lodgings, with more liberal feelings, and a
better man.
Christmas, as a holy-day, is strictly observed by the general suspension
of business, and service is performed at all the churches, as in most
other Catholic countries. The only exception to this uniformity perhaps
consists in the devotional ceremonies usually offered to a cross affixed
to the walls of the Bishop’s palace, which rites concluded the religious
offices of the day. These services were performed by the Indians—and
give but too painful evidence of the influence of their priesthood.
The next day was Sunday, and concluded the feast of St. Christoval. The
churches were crowded, as is usual, during the morning; but the majority
of the multitude that attended the service consisted of females, mostly
Indian. In the afternoon we proceeded towards the church of St.
Christoval, for the purpose of witnessing the closing scene of a
festival which is finished by a procession. Before reaching our
destination, however, we met it, and took a position in a door-way, the
better to observe it and be out of the crowd. It was headed by eight or
ten Indians, with long brass and tin horns, making the most discordant
sounds imaginable. Then followed Indian boys, drumming on hollow pieces
of wood, squalid and dirty in their appearance, and who were the only
ones of a like character that presented themselves to view among the
immense multitude. Next came the priests, chanting for the saints, and
waving the burning incense, followed by drums and fifes in advance of a
large image of the Virgin, decked in various colors, interspersed with
tinsel ornaments, surmounted with glass vases, in which a lighted candle
or a bouquet of flowers was alternately placed. This imposing display
was borne upon the shoulders of eight Indians, surrounded by priests.
The rear was brought up by a company of soldiers with fixed bayonets;
the whole surrounded by an immense crowd, filling up the streets for a
great distance. All were uncovered, and many knelt during the haltings
of the procession, which were purposely frequent, so as to enable the
people to salute the image. This grand display occupied about three
hours, the procession passing through the principal streets and back to
the church, where it was dismissed. The whole dispersed with the utmost
quietness; some to their homes, and others to places of gaming and
dancing.
In returning to our lodgings we met a calesa, preceded by two Indians
with lanterns, tinkling small bells, followed by four Indian soldiers,
armed with muskets. The carriage contained a priest, who was going to
administer holy unction. The people, as is the universal custom here,
knelt as he passed. To obviate a similar necessity, we retreated into
the nearest house; thereby escaping a charge of heresy, and the
unpleasantness of coming in contact with muddy streets.
A stranger, on his first arrival in this country, is at a loss where to
place the Indian in the scale of social life. He sees him clean and well
dressed, mingling with the whites, and without distinction. To have
Indian blood is no reproach, and family groups, in many cases, show this
most palpably. It is not unusual to hear mothers threaten to send their
children home to their respective fathers, whenever their rudeness
requires chiding. The Indian, however, performs the menial labor of the
country—and there is an appearance of apathy in his looks and actions,
which seems to carry with it the signs of a broken, or at least a
subdued spirit—resting upon him like a melancholy vision, a dreamy
remembrance, of better days. For, say what we please of him, he is the
humble descendant of a once great and powerful people—the “children of
the sun,” who were lords of that soil on which their offspring are now
held in humiliating vassalage.
We were roused early this morning by the tramp of horses. It was a body
of cavalry returning from a neighboring town, where they had been
ordered for the purpose of quelling an _émeute_. They were headed by a
small bloody-looking Mexican, with a pair of mustachios that the
proudest Castilian might have envied. He was dressed in a blue
roundabout, loose white trousers, and a glazed Mexican hat. His
followers were mounted upon mules of the most jaded appearance, saddled
and caparisoned with manilla matting and ropes. Each wore a shirt,
trousers, and straw hat; and was bare-footed, except a pair of huge
spurs, which embellished the otherwise naked heel of each rider. Their
usual arms were the broadsword and pistols, but this squadron was not
well equipped; and the common bayonet, with them, was frequently
compelled to do duty for one or both of the other weapons. After so
particular a description of these soldiers, it is a matter of extreme
regret that the result of the expedition cannot be minutely stated. I
feel entitled, however, to indulge a little pride in making the
announcement, that they did return crowned with wreaths of victory.
[Illustration: INDIANS OF YUCATAN.]
This season of the year is the high noon of the holy-days, which
engrosses the best part of the year, and which formerly included
two-thirds of it. Their number, some time since, was reduced by a bull
from the Pope. The people testify their respect for these festival days
(for such they are denominated) by processions and such amusements as
are suited to their taste. Notwithstanding the acknowledged debasing
effects of their sports and pastimes, which wholly consist of
bull-baiting, cock-fighting, and gambling, they are not disgraced by any
riotousness or drunkenness. It is a singular fact, that, although the
degrading habit of gambling is general among all classes of society,
male and female, drunkenness and its concomitant vices are unknown. The
priests give countenance to these recreations, if they may be so called,
both by their presence and participation. It is but due to the Yucatecos
to say, that during my residence in their province, I never observed any
cheating or quarrelling at the gaming table, nor have I observed others
tempted by improper means to participate in the hazard of the gaming
table, after the manner of people at the North. Gambling seems to be a
passion peculiar to the Mexican’s character, which he indulges from
motives quite independent of mercenary considerations. They usually
gamble with cards; but of the skill or even the names of their games, I
must plead an utter ignorance. Their interest would sometimes become
perfectly intense, as every lineament of their countenances abundantly
testified. Hope, fear, satisfaction, and disappointment followed each
other in quick succession over their faces, while the portly priest and
the flippant señora, who stood near, with their bets vibrating with the
chances of the game, seemed scarcely less interested in the result than
the more immediate parties. Had a spell of enchantment been laid upon
the whole group, they could not have been more completely at the mercy
of the uncontrollable hazards of their game. All moral accountability
seemed to disappear before its irresistible fascinations.
[Illustration: THE PLANTAIN TREE.]
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