Plan of the Ruins.--An Edifice called
Akatzeeb.--Doorways.--Apartments.--Circular Mass of
Masonry.--Mysterious Chamber.--Sculptured Stone Tablet.---Majestic
Pile of Building called the Monjas.--Hieroglyphics.--Rich
Ornaments.--Doorways, Chambers, &c.--Remains of Painting.--The Eglesia,
or Church.--Ornaments on the Facade.--Cartouches in Plaster.--Circular
Edifice called the Caracol.--Apartment.--Staircase, having on each Side
entwined Serpents.--Gigantic Head.--Doorways.--Paintings.--Building
called Chichanchob.--Ornaments.--Row of Hieroglyphics.--Another
Building.--Vestiges of Mounds and ruined Buildings.--Extraordinary
Edifice, to which the Name Gymnasium or Tennis-court is
given.--Ornamented Columns.--Sculptured Figures in Bas-relief.--Massive
Stone Rings, with entwined Serpents.--Indian Sports.--Two Ranges of
Buildings.--Procession of Tigers.--Sculptured Columns.--Figures
in Bas-relief.--Richly-carved lintel.--Paintings. The
Castillo.--Staircase.--Colossal Serpents' Heads.--Doorways.--Carved
Lintels.--Jambs ornamented with Sculptured
Figures.--Corridors.--Apartments.--Square Pillars, covered with
Sculptured Figures.--Rows of Columns.--Occupation and Abandonment of
Chichen by the Spaniards.--First Discovery of Chichen.--Senotes.
[Engraving: General Plan of the Buildings at Chichen Itza]
The plate opposite represents the general plan of the ruins of Chichen.
This plan is made from bearings taken with the compass, and the
distances were all measured with a line. The buildings are laid down on
the plan according to their exterior form. All now standing are
comprehended, and the whole circumference occupied by them is about two
miles, which is equal to the diameter of two thirds of a mile, though
ruined buildings appear beyond these limits.
[Engraving 37: The Akatzeeb]
By referring to the plan the reader will see the position of the hut in
which we lived, and, following the path from our door through the
cattle-yard of the hacienda, at the distance of two hundred and fifty
yards he will reach the building represented in the plate opposite. It
does not stand on an artificial terrace, but the earth seems to have
been excavated for some distance before it, so as to give it elevation
of position. It faces the east, and measures one hundred and forty-nine
feet in front by forty-eight feet deep. The whole exterior is rude, and
without ornament of any kind. A grand staircase, forty-five feet wide,
now entirely in ruins, rises in the centre to the roof of the building.
On each side of the staircase are two doorways; at each end is a single
doorway, and the front facing the west has seven. The whole number of
apartments is eighteen. The west front opens upon a large hollow
surface, whether natural or artificial it is not easy to say, and in
the centre of this is one of those features before referred to, a solid
mass of masonry, forty-four feet by thirty-four, standing out from the
wall, high as the roof and corresponding, in position and dimensions,
with the ruined staircase on the eastern front. This projection is not
necessary for the support of the building; it is not an ornament, but,
on the contrary, a deformity; and whether it be really a solid mass, or
contain interior chambers, remains to be ascertained by the future
explorer.
[Engraving 38: Sculptured Stone Tablet]
At the south end the doorway opens into a chamber, round which hangs a
greater and more unpenetrable mystery. This chamber is nineteen feet
wide by eight feet six inches deep, and in the back wall a low, narrow
doorway communicates with another chamber in the rear, of the same
dimensions, but having its floor one step higher. The lintel of this
doorway is of stone, and on the soffite, or under part, is sculptured
the subject represented in the engraving opposite. This tablet, and the
position in which it exists, have given the name to the building, which
the Indians call Akatzeeb, signifying the writing in the dark; for, as
no light enters except from the single doorway, the chamber was so dark
that the drawing could with difficulty be copied. It was the first time
in Yucatan that we had found hieroglyphics sculptured on stone, which,
beyond all question, bore the same type with those at Copan and
Palenque. The sitting figure seems performing some act of incantation,
or some religious or idolatrous rite, which the "writing in the dark"
undoubtedly explains, if one could but read it. Physical force may raze
these buildings to the ground, and lay bare all the secrets they
contain, but physical force can never unravel the mystery that involves
this sculptured tablet.
[Engraving 39: End Facade of the Monjas]
Leaving this building, and following the path indicated in the map, at
the distance of one hundred and fifty yards westward we reach a modern
stone fence, dividing the cattle-field of the hacienda, on the other
side of which appears through the trees, between two other buildings
the end facade of a long, majestic pile, called, like one of the
principal edifices at Uxmal, the Monjas, or Nuns; it is remarkable for
its good state of preservation, and the richness and beauty of its
ornaments, as represented in the plate opposite. The view comprehends
the corner of a building on the right, at a short distance, called the
Eglesia, or Church. The height of this facade is twenty-five feet, and
its width thirty-five. It has two cornices of tasteful and elaborate
design. Over the doorway are twenty small cartouches of hieroglyphics
in four rows, five in a row, barely indicated in the engraving, and to
make room for which the lower cornice is carried up. Over these stand
out in a line six bold projecting curved ornaments, like that presented
from the House of the Governor at Uxmal, resembling an elephant's
trunk, and the upper centre space over the doorway is an irregular
circular niche, in which portions of a seated figure, with a head-dress
of feathers, still remain. The rest of the ornaments are of that
distinctive stamp, characteristic of the ancient American cities, and
unlike the designs of any other people, with which the reader must now
be familiar. The tropical plants and shrubs growing on the roof, which,
when we first saw it, hung over the cornice like a fringe-work, added
greatly to the picturesque effect of this elegant facade.
[Engraving 40: Front of the Monjas]
The plate opposite represents the front of the same building. It is
composed of two structures entirely different from each other, one of
which forms a sort of wing to the principal edifice, and has at the end
the facade before presented. The whole length is two hundred and
twenty-eight feet, and the depth of the principal structure is one
hundred and twelve feet. The only portion containing interior chambers,
is that which I have called the wing. This has two doorways opening
into chambers twenty-six feet long and eight feet deep, behind each of
which is another of corresponding dimensions, now filled up several
feet with mortar and stones, and appearing to have been originally
filled up solid to the ceiling, making again casas cerradas, or closed
houses. The whole number of chambers in this wing is nine, and these
are all the apartments on the ground floor. The great structure to
which the wing adjoins is apparently a solid mass of masonry, erected
only to hold up the two ranges of buildings upon it. A grand staircase
fifty-six feet wide, the largest we saw in the country, rises to the
top. On one side of the staircase a huge breach, twenty or thirty feet
deep, has been made by the proprietor, for the purpose of getting out
building stone, which discloses only solid masonry. The grand staircase
is thirty-two feet high, and has thirty-nine steps. On the top of the
structure stands a range of buildings, with a platform of fourteen feet
in front extending all round.
From the back of this platform the grand staircase rises again, having
the same width, fifteen steps to the roof of the second range, which
forms a platform in front of the third range; this last is
unfortunately, in a ruinous condition, and it is to be observed that in
this, as in all the other cases, these ancient architects never placed
an upper building on the roof of a lower one, but always back, so as to
rest on a structure solid from the ground, the roof of the lower range
being merely a platform in front of the upper one.
The circumference of this building is six hundred and thirty-eight
feet, and its height, when entire, was sixty-five feet. It seems to
have been constructed only with reference to the second range of
apartments, upon which the art and skill of the builders have been
lavishly expended. It is one hundred and four feet long and thirty feet
wide, and the broad platform around it, though overgrown with grass
several feet high, formed a noble promenade, commanding a magnificent
view of the whole surrounding country.
On the side of the staircase are five doorways, of which the three
centre ones are what are usually called false doors, appearing to be
merely recesses in the wall. The compartments between the doorways
contained combinations of ornaments of unusual taste and elegance, both
in arrangement and design. The two extreme doorways open into chambers,
in each of which are three long recesses in the back wall, extending
from the floor to the ceiling, all of which, from the remains still
visible, were once ornamented with paintings. At each end of the
building was another chamber, with three niches or recesses, and on the
other side, facing the south, the three centre doorways, corresponding
with the false doors on the north side, opened into an apartment
forty-seven feet long and nine deep, having nine long niches in the
back wall; all the walls from the floor to the peak of the arch had
been covered with painted designs, now wantonly defaced, but the
remains of which present colours in some places still bright and vivid;
and among these remains detached portions of human figures continually
recur, well drawn, the heads adorned with plumes of feathers, and the
hands bearing shields and spears. All attempt at description would
fail, and much more would an attempt to describe the strange interest
of walking along the overgrown platform of this gigantic and desolate
building.
[Engraving 41: The Eglesia, or Church]
Descending again to the ground, at the end of the wing stands what is
called the Eglesia, or Church, a corner of which was comprehended in a
previous view, and the front of which is represented in the plate
opposite. It is twenty-six feet long, fourteen deep, and thirty-one
high, its comparatively great height adding very much to the effect of
its appearance. It has three cornices, and the spaces between are richly
ornamented. The sculpture is rude but grand. The principal ornament is
over the doorway, and on each side are two human figures in a sitting
posture, but, unfortunately, much mutilated. The portion of the facade
above the second cornice is merely an ornamented wall, like those
before mentioned at Zayi and Labna.
The whole of this building is in a good state of preservation. The
interior consists of a single apartment, once covered with plaster, and
along the top of the wall under the arch are seen the traces of a line
of medallions or cartouches in plaster, which once contained
hieroglyphics. The Indians have no superstitious feelings about these
ruins, except in regard to this building; and in this they say that on
Good Friday of every year music is heard sounding; but this illusion,
brought with us from Santa Cruz del Quiche, was here destined to be
broken. In this chamber we opened our Daguerreotype apparatus, and on
Good Friday were at work all day, but heard no music. This chamber,
by-the-way, was the best we had found for our Daguerreotype operations.
Having but one door, it was easily darkened; we were not obliged to
pack up and carry away; the only danger was of cattle getting in and
breaking; and there was no difficulty in getting an Indian to pass the
night in the room and guard against this peril.
South of the end of the Monjas, and twenty-two feet distant, is another
building, measuring thirty eight feet by thirteen, having the exterior
above the cornice decorated in the usual manner, but which I do not
think it worth while to present.
[Engraving 42: The Caracol, a Circular Edifice]
Leaving this pile of buildings, and passing on northward from the
Monjas, at the distance of four hundred feet we reach the edifice
represented in the opposite engraving, conspicuous among the ruins of
Chichen for its picturesque appearance, and unlike any other we had
seen, except one at Mayapan much ruined. It is circular in form, and is
known by the name of the Caracol, or winding staircase, on account of
its interior arrangements. It stands on the upper of two terraces. The
lower one measures in front from north to south two hundred and
twenty-three feet, and in depth from east to west one hundred and fifty
feet, and is still in good preservation. A grand staircase forty-five
feet wide, and containing twenty steps, rises to the platform of this
terrace. On each side of this staircase, forming a sort of balustrade,
were the entwined bodies of two gigantic serpents, three feet wide,
portions of which are still in place; and among the ruins of the
staircase we saw a gigantic head, which had terminated at one side the
foot of the steps.
The platform of the second terrace measures eighty feet in front and
fifty-five in depth, and is reached by another staircase forty-two feet
wide, and having sixteen steps. In the centre of the steps, and against
the wall of the terrace, are the remains of a pedestal six feet high,
on which probably once stood an idol. On the platform, fifteen feet
from the last step, stands the building. It is twenty-two feet in
diameter, and has four small doorways facing the cardinal points. A
great portion of the upper part and one of the sides have fallen. Above
the cornice the roof sloped so as almost to form an apex. The height,
including the terraces, is little short of sixty feet, and, when
entire, even among the great buildings around, this structure must have
presented a striking appearance. The doorways give entrance to a
circular corridor five feet wide. The inner wall has also four
doorways, smaller than the others, and standing at intermediate points
of the compass, facing northeast, northwest, southwest, and southeast.
These doors give entrance to a second circular corridor, four feet
wide; and in the centre is a circular mass, apparently of solid stone,
seven feet six inches in diameter; but in one place, at the height of
eight feet from the ground, was a small square opening choked up with
stones which I endeavoured to clear out; but the stones falling into
the narrow corridor made it dangerous to continue. The roof was so
tottering that I could not discover to what this opening led. It was
about large enough to admit the figure of a man in a standing position,
to look out from the top. The walls of both corridors were plastered
and ornamented with paintings, and both were covered with the
triangular arch. The plan of the building was new, but, instead of
unfolding secrets, it drew closer the curtain that already shrouded,
with almost impenetrable folds, these mysterious structures.
At the distance of four hundred and twenty feet northwest from the
Caracol stands the building represented in the following engraving. It is
called by the Indians Chichanchob, meaning in Spanish, Casa Colorada,
and in English, Red House. The terrace is sixty-two feet long and
fifty-five wide, and is still in good preservation; the staircase is
twenty feet wide, and as we approached it on our first visit, a cow was
coming quietly down the steps.
[Engraving 43: The Casa Colorada]
The building measure forty-three feet front and twenty-three feet deep,
and is still strong and substantial. Above the cornice it was richly
ornamented, but the ornaments are now much decayed. It has three
doorways, which open into a corridor running the whole width of the
building; and along the top of the back wall was a stone tablet, with a
row of hieroglyphics extending all along the wall. Many of them were
defaced, and, from their height, in an awkward position to copy; but we
had a scaffold erected, and obtained copies of the whole. The plate
opposite represents these hieroglyphics, so far as they could be made
out. When not distinct, to avoid misleading they are not given at all.
Under the hieroglyphics, in the plate, is given a plan of the building,
with its terrace and staircase. It has a back corridor, consisting of
three chambers, all of which retain the marks of painting; and, from
the convenience of its arrangements, with the platform of the terrace
for a promenade, and the view of a fine open country in front, but for
the greater convenience of being near the hacienda we should have been
tempted to take up our abode in it.
[Engraving 44: Hieroglyphics]
[Transcriber's Note:
The text within the engraving is as follows:
Above first row of hieroglyphics: _The Hieroglyphics commence at this
end and continue in an uninterrupted line to the end._
Above second row of hieroglyphics: _Recommence here._
At end of hieroglyphics: _94 in. End of Line of Hieroglyphcs._
_Ground plan of the Building containing the row of Hieroglyphics which
are place over the three inner doorways._
Within ground plan: (width:)_Platform 62 (depth:) feet 56 feet._
At right of ground plan: A _First Room in which are the Hieroglypics.
Room 39 ft. 6 in. long by 7 ft. 6 in. broad._
B B B _Small inner rooms with remains of painting._
Lower left of engraving: _CHICHEN-ITZA._
Across bottom of engraving: _Scale in feet._]
At the short distance of two hundred feet is the building represented
in the following engraving. The platform of the terrace was sixty-four
feet square, the building had three rooms, but both terrace and
building are ruined, and the view is presented only because it was so
picturesque that Mr. Catherwood could not resist the temptation to draw
it.
[Engraving 45: Picturesque View]
All these buildings are within three hundred yards of the staircase of
the Monjas; from any intermediate point all are in full sight; the
field is open, and intersected by cattle-paths; the buildings,
staircases, and terraces were overgrown, but Indians being at hand in
sufficient force, they were easily cleared, and the whole was finished
with a despatch that had never before attended our progress.
These are the only buildings on the west side of the camino real which
are still standing; but great vestiges exist of mounds with remains of
buildings upon them, and colossal stones and fragments of sculpture at
their feet, which it would be impossible to present in detail.
[Engraving 46: Gymnasium, or Tennis Court]
Passing among these vestiges, we come out upon the camino real, and,
crossing it, again enter an open field, containing the extraordinary
edifice represented in the plate opposite, which, on first reaching the
field of ruins, we rode in on horseback to examine. It consists of two
immense parallel walls, each two hundred and seventy-four feet long,
thirty feet thick, and one hundred and twenty feet apart. One hundred
feet from the northern extremity, facing the open space between the
walls, stands on an elevation a building thirty-five feet long,
containing a single chamber, with the front fallen, and, rising among
the rubbish, the remains of two columns, elaborately ornamented with
sculpture; the whole interior wall being exposed to view, covered
from the floor to the peak of the arch with sculptured figures in
bas-relief, much worn and faded. The engraving represents the two
walls, with this building in the distance. And at the other end,
setting back, too, one hundred feet, and commanding the space between
the walls, is another building eighty-one feet long, also ruined, but
exhibiting the remains of two columns richly ornamented with sculptured
figures in bas-relief. The position in which these walls and buildings
stand to each other is laid down on the general plan.
In the centre of the great stone walls, exactly opposite each other,
and at the height of twenty feet from the ground, are two massive stone
rings, four feet in diameter, and one foot one inch thick; the diameter
of the hole is one foot seven inches. On the rim and border were two
sculptured entwined serpents, one of which is represented in the
engraving below.
[Engraving 47: Sculptured Entwined Serpents]
These walls, at the first glance, we considered identical in their uses
and purposes with the parallel structures supporting the rings at
Uxmal, of which I have already expressed the opinion that they were
intended for the celebration of some public games. I have in all cases
adopted the names of buildings which I found assigned to them on the
spot, where any existed, and where there were none I have not attempted
to give any. At Chichen all the principal buildings have names; this is
called an Eglesia, or Church, of the antiguos, which was begun, but not
finished, and the great open walls present not a bad idea of one of
their gigantic churches before the roof is put on; but as we have
already one Eglesia, and there is historical authority which, in my
opinion, shows clearly the object and uses of this extraordinary
structure, I shall call it, as occasion requires, the Gymnasium or
Tennis-court.
In the account of the diversions of Montezuma, given by Herrera, we
have the following:
"The King took much Delight in seeing Sport at Ball, which the
Spaniards have since prohibited, because of the Mischief that often
hapned at it; and was by them call'd _Tlachtli_, being like our Tennis.
The Ball was made of the Gum of a Tree that grows in hot Countries,
which, having Holes made in it, distils great white Drops, that soon
harden, and, being work'd and moulded together, turn as black as
Pitch.[3] The Balls made thereof, tho' hard and heavy to the Hand, did
bound and fly as well as our Foot-balls, there being no need to blow
them; nor did they use Chaces, but vy'd to drive the adverse Party that
is to hit the Wall, the others were to make good, or strike it over.
They struck it with any Part of their Body, as it hapned, or they could
most conveniently; and sometimes he lost that touched it with any other
Part but his Hip, which was look'd upon among them as the greatest
Dexterity; and to this Effect, that the Ball might rebound the better,
they fastned a Piece of stiff Leather on their Hips. They might strike
it every time it rebounded, which it would do several Times one after
another, in so much that it look'd as if it had been alive. They play'd
in Parties, so many on a Side, for a Load of Mantles, or what the
Gamesters could afford, at so many Scores. They also play'd for Gold,
and Feather-work, and sometimes play'd themselves away, as has been
said before. The Place where they play'd was a ground Room, long,
narrow, and high, but wider above than below, and higher on the Sides
than at the Ends, and they kept it very well plaster'd and smooth, both
the Walls and the Floor. _On the side Walls they fix'd certain Stones
like those of a Mill, with a Hole quite through the Middle_, just as
big as the Ball, and he that could strike it through there won the
Game; and in Token of its being an extraordinary Success, which rarely
hapned, he had a Right to the Cloaks of all the Lookers-on, by antient
Custom, and Law amongst Gamesters; and it was very pleasant to see,
that as soon as ever the Ball was in the Hole, the Standers-by took to
their Heels, running away with all their Might to save their Cloaks,
laughing and rejoicing, others scouring after them to secure their
Cloaks for the Winner, who was oblig'd to offer some Sacrifice to the
Idol of the Tennis-court, and the Stone through whose Hole the Ball had
pass'd. Every Tennis-court was a Temple, having two Idols, the one of
Gaming, and the other of the Ball. On a lucky Day, at Midnight, they
performed certain Ceremonies and Enchantments on the two lower Walls
and on the Midst of the Floor, singing certain Songs, or Ballads; after
which a Priest of the great Temple went with some of their Religious
Men to bless it; he uttered some Words, threw the Ball about the
Tennis-court four Times, and then it was consecrated, and might be
play'd in, but not before. The Owner of the Tennis-court, who was
always a Lord, never play'd without making some Offering and performing
certain Ceremonies to the Idol of Gaming, which shows how superstitious
they were, since they had such Regard to their Idols, even in their
Diversions. Montezuma carry'd the Spaniards to this Sport, and was well
pleas'd to see them play at it, as also at Cards and Dice."
With some slight variation in details, the general features are so
identical as to leave no doubt on my mind that this structure was
erected for precisely the same object as the Tennis-court in the city
of Mexico described by Herrera. The temples are at hand in which
sacrifices were offered, and we discover in this something more
important than the mere determining of the character of a building; for
in the similarity of diversions we see a resemblance in manners and
institutions, and trace an affinity between the people who erected the
ruined cities of Yucatan and those who inhabited Mexico at the time of
the conquest. In the account of Herrera, moreover, we see incidentally
the drawing of a funeral pall over the institutions of the natives, for
we learn that the sport which "Montezuma took much delight in seeing,"
and which, beyond doubt, was a favourite diversion of the people, "the
Spaniards have since prohibited."
[Engraving 48: An Edifice]
At the southern extremity of the eastern wall, and on the outer side,
stands the building represented in the engraving opposite, consisting
of two ranges, one even with the ground, and the other about
twenty-five feet above it, the latter being in a good state of
preservation simple, tasteful in its arrangement of ornaments, and
having conspicuous a procession of tigers or lynxes, which appear on a
small scale in the engraving. From its lofty position, with trees
growing around it and on the roof, the effect is beautifully
picturesque but it has, besides a far higher interest, and on some
considerations may perhaps be regarded as the most important structure
that we met with in our whole exploration of ruins.
The lower building, standing on the ground, is in a ruinous condition:
the front has fallen, and shows only the remains of two columns covered
with sculptured figures; the fall of the front has laid bare the entire
wall of the chamber, covered from one end to the other with
elaborately-sculptured figures in bas-relief.
[Engraving 49: Figures in Bas-relief]
[Transcriber's Note:
Text at end of line of Bas-relief: _This part is covered with
sculpture of the same character._
Text below last line of Bas-relief: _This part is covered with
sculpture of the same character._
Text below Bas-relief: _Portion of a Painted Bas-relief on the Wall of a
Building at CHICHEN-ITZA._
Bottom line: _Scale of English feet._]
The plate opposite represents a portion of these figures. Exposed for
ages to a long succession of winds and rains, the characters were faded
and worn; under the glare of a tropical sun the lines were confused and
indistinct, and the reflection of the heat was so intense that it was
impossible to work before it except for an hour or two in the
afternoon, when the building was in the shade. The head-dress of the
figures is, as usual, a plume of feathers, and in the upper row each
figure carries a bundle of spears or a quiver of arrows. All these
figures were painted, and the reader may imagine what the effect must
have been when all was entire. The Indians call this chamber Stohl, and
say that it represents a dance of the antiguos; and these bas-reliefs,
too, have a distinct and independent value. In the large work of Nebel,
entitled "Voyage Pittoresque et Archeologique dans le Mexique," lately
published at Paris, is a drawing of the stone of sacrifice in the
Museum of Mexico, and now for the first time published. It is nine feet
in diameter and three feet thick, and contains a procession of figures
in bas-relief, which, though differing in detail, are of the same
general character with those sculptured on the wall of this building.
The stone was dug up in the plaza of Mexico, near the spot on which
stood, in the time of Montezuma, the great teocalis of that city. The
resemblance stands upon a different footing from any which may exist in
Mitla, or Xocichalco, or other places, the history of which is unknown,
and forms another connecting link with the very people who occupied the
city of Mexico at the time of the conquest. And the proofs go on
accumulating. In the upper building, the back of which appears in the
engraving, is presented a casket containing, though broken and
disfigured, perhaps the greatest gem of aboriginal art which on the
whole Continent of America now survives.
[Engraving 50: Paintings]
[Transcriber's Note:
Text within Engraving above each group: No. 1, No. 2, No. 3, No. 4.
Text at Bottom: Outlines from paintings on the walls of a room at
CHICHEN-ITZA. The colors are vivid and well preserved and consist of
Green, Yellow, Red, Blue and a Reddish brown, which last color is
invariably used for the color of flesh, the color of the women is
somewhat lighter than that of the men. On the line marked No. 1 the
figures follow as shewn in the drawing. On line No. 2 the figures are
all on the same line but some figures occur between the first two and
the last two which are omitted from being much defaced. Line No. 3
represents figures taken from various groups. No. 4 the same. Figures
9 in. high.]
The steps or other means of access to this building are gone, and we
reached it by clambering over fallen stones. The door opens upon the
platform of the wall, overlooking the Tennis-court. The front corridor
was supported by massive pillars, portions of which still remain,
covered with elaborate sculptured ornaments. The lintel of the inner
doorway is a beam of sapote richly carved. The jambs are partly buried,
and above the rubbish appear sculptured figures with rich head-dresses,
which anywhere else we should have considered it necessary to bring to
light and copy; but between these jambs we enter an inner chamber, the
walls and ceiling of which are covered, from the floor to the peak of
the arch, with designs in painting, representing, in bright and vivid
colours, human figures, battles, houses, trees, and scenes of domestic
life, and conspicuous on one of the walls is a large canoe; but the
first feeling of gratified surprise was followed by heavy
disappointment, for the whole was mutilated and disfigured. In some
places the plaster was broken off; in every part deep and malignant
scratches appeared in the walls, and while individual figures were
entire, the connexion of the subjects could not be made out. For a long
time we had been tantalized with fragments of painting, giving us the
strong impression that in this more perishable art these aboriginal
builders had made higher attainments than in that of sculpture, and we
now had proofs that our impression did them justice. The plate opposite
represents detached portions of these paintings. The colours are green,
yellow, red, blue, and a reddish brown, the last being invariably the
colour given to human flesh. Wanting the various tints, the engraving,
of course, gives only an imperfect idea of them, though, even in
outline, they exhibit a freedom of touch which could only be the result
of discipline and training under masters. But they have a higher
interest than any that attaches to them as mere specimens of art; for
among them are seen designs and figures which call forcibly to mind the
well-known picture writings of the Mexicans; and if these analogies are
sustained, this building attached to the walls of the Tennis-court
stands an unimpeachable witness that the people who inhabited Mexico at
the time of the conquest belonged to the same great race which
furnished the builders of the ruined cities in Yucatan.
[Engraving 51: The Castillo]
But to continue. At the distance of five hundred feet southeast from
this rises the Castillo, represented in the plate opposite, the first
building which we saw, and from every point of view the grandest and
most conspicuous object that towers above the plain. Every Sunday the
ruins are resorted to as a promenade by the villagers of Piste, and
nothing can surpass the picturesque appearance of this lofty building
while women, dressed in white, with red shawls, are moving on the
platform, and passing in and out at the doors. The mound measures at
the base on the north and south sides one hundred and ninety-six feet
ten inches, and on the east and west sides two hundred and two feet. It
does not face the cardinal points exactly, though probably so intended;
and in all the buildings, from some cause not easily accounted for,
while one varies ten degrees one way, that immediately adjoining varies
twelve or thirteen degrees in another. It is built up apparently solid
from the plain to the height of seventy-five feet. On the west side is
a staircase thirty-seven feet wide; on the north, being that presented
in the engraving, the staircase is forty-four feet wide, and contains
ninety steps. On the ground at the foot of the staircase, forming a
bold, striking, and well-conceived commencement to this lofty range,
are two colossal serpents' heads, ten feet in length, with mouths wide
open and tongues protruding, as represented in the following engraving.
No doubt they were emblematic of some religious belief and in the minds
of an imaginative people, passing between them to ascend the steps,
must have excited feelings of solemn awe.
[Engraving 52: Staircase, with colossal Serpents' Heads]
[Engraving 53: Sculptured Figure]
[Transcriber's Note:
Text immediately below Figure: _4 feet 8 in._
Bottom line: _Figure in Bas-relief on Stone on one of the Jambs of the
TEOCALLIS at CHICHEN-ITZA._]
The platform on the top of the mound measures sixty-one feet from north
to south, and sixty-four from east to west; and the building measures
in the same directions forty-three feet and forty-nine. Single doorways
face the east, south, and west, having massive lintels of sapote wood
covered with elaborate carvings, and the jambs are ornamented with
sculptured figures, one of which is represented in the engraving
opposite. The sculpture is much worn, but the head-dress, ornamented
with a plume of feathers, and portions of the rich attire still remain.
The face is well preserved, and has a dignified appearance. It has,
too, earrings, and the nose bored, which, according to the historical
accounts, was so prevalent a custom in Yucatan, that long after the
conquest the Spaniards passed laws for its prohibition.
All the other jambs are decorated with sculpture of the same general
character, and all open into a corridor six feet wide, extending round
three sides of the building.
[Engraving 54: An Apartment]
The doorway facing the north, represented in the engraving, presents a
grander appearance, being twenty feet wide, and having two short
massive columns, eight feet eight inches high, with two large
projections at the base, entirely covered with elaborate sculpture.
This doorway gives access to a corridor forty feet long by six feet
four inches wide and seventeen feet high. In the back wall of this
corridor is a single doorway, having sculptured jambs, over which is a
richly-carved sapote beam, and giving entrance to an apartment
represented in the engraving opposite, nineteen feet eight inches long,
twelve feet nine inches wide, and seventeen feet high. In this
apartment are two square pillars nine feet four inches high and one
foot ten inches on each side, having sculptured figures on all their
sides, and supporting massive sapote beams covered with the most
elaborate carving of curious and intricate designs, but so defaced and
timeworn that, in the obscurity of the room, lighted only from the
door, it was extremely difficult to make them out. The impression
produced on entering this lofty chamber, so entirely different from all
we had met with before, was perhaps stronger than any we had yet
experienced. We passed a whole day within it, from time to time
stepping out upon the platform to look down upon the ruined buildings
of the ancient city, and an immense field stretching on all sides
beyond.
[Engraving 55: Rows of Columns and Castillo]
And from this lofty height we saw for the first time groups of small
columns, which, on examination, proved to be among the most remarkable
and unintelligible remains we had yet met with. They stood in rows of
three, four, and five abreast, many rows continuing in the same
direction, when they changed and pursued another. They were very low,
many of them only three feet high, while the highest were not more than
six feet, and consisted of several separate pieces, like millstones.
Many of them had fallen, and in some places they lie prostrate in rows,
all in the same direction, as if thrown down intentionally. I had a
large number of Indians at work clearing them, and endeavouring to
trace their direction to the end. In some places they extended to the
bases of large mounds, on which were ruins of buildings and colossal
fragments of sculpture, while in others they branched off and
terminated abruptly. I counted three hundred and eighty, and there were
many more; but so many were broken, and they lay so irregularly, that I
gave up counting them. They were entirely too low to have supported a
roof under which persons could walk. The idea at times suggested itself
that they had upheld a raised walk of cement, but there were no remains
visible. The plate opposite will give some idea of these columns, with
the Castillo and part of the Tennis-court appearing in the background.
They enclose an area nearly four hundred feet square; and,
incomprehensible as they are in their uses and object, add largely to
the interest and wonder connected with these ruins.
I have now closed my brief description of the ruins of Chichen, having
presented, with as little detail as possible, all the principal
buildings of this ancient city. Ruined mounds exist, and detached
portions of sculpture strew the ground, exhibiting curious devices,
which often arrested us in wandering among them, but which I shall not
attempt to give. They were the ruins which we had had longest in
prospect, of which we had formed the largest expectations, and these
expectations were not disappointed, but more than realized. And they
had additional interest in our eyes from the fact that the broad light
of day beams upon their history. The first settlement of the Spaniards
in the interior was made at this very spot.
The reader may remember that in the early part of these pages he
accompanied Don Francisco Montejo to Chichen, or Chichen Itza, as it
was called, from the name of the people who occupied the country. The
site of this place is identified beyond all peradventure as that now
occupied by these ruins; and the reader, perhaps, will expect from Don
Francisco Montejo, or the Spanish soldiers, some detailed account of
these extraordinary buildings, so different from any to which the
Spaniards were accustomed. But, strange as it may appear, no such
account exists. The only existing notice of their journey from the
coast says, that from a place called Ake they set out, directing their
course for Chichen Itza, where they determined to stop and settle, as
it appeared a proper place, on account of the strength of the great
buildings that were there, for defence against attacks by the Indians.
We do not even learn whether these buildings were inhabited or
desolate; but Herrera says that the Indians in this region were so
numerous, that in making the distribution which the adelantado was
allowed by the terms of the royal grant, the least number which fell to
the lot of a Spaniard was two thousand.
Having regard, however, to the circumstances of the occupation and
abandonment of Chichen by the Spaniards, their silence is perhaps not
extraordinary. I have already mentioned that at this place the
adelantado made a fatal mistake, and, lured by the glitter of gold in
another province, divided his forces, and sent one of his best
captains, with fifty men, in search of it. From this time calamities
and dangers pressed upon him; altercations and contests began with the
Indians; provisions were withheld, the Spaniards were obliged to seek
them with the sword, and all that they ate was procured at the price of
blood. At length the Indians determined upon their utter destruction.
Immense multitudes surrounded the camp of the Spaniards, hemming them
in on all sides. The Spaniards, seeing themselves reduced to the
necessity of perishing by hunger, determined to die bravely in the
field, and went out to give battle. The most sanguinary fight they had
ever been engaged in then took place. The Spaniards fought for their
lives, and the Indians to remain masters of their own soil. Masses of
the latter were killed, but great slaughter was made among the
Spaniards, and, to save the lives of those who remained, the adelantado
retreated to the fortifications. One hundred and fifty of the
conquerors were dead; nearly all the rest were wounded, and if the
Indians had attacked them in their retreat they would have perished to
a man.
Unable to hold out any longer, they took advantage of a night when the
Indians were off their guard, and making sallies in the evening so as
to keep them awake, that weariness might afterward overtake them, as
soon as all was still they tied a dog to the clapper of a bell-rope;
putting some food before him, but out of his reach, and with great
silence marched out from the camp. The dog, when he saw them going,
pulled the cord in order to go with them, and afterward to get at the
food. The Indians, supposing that the Spaniards were sounding the
alarm, remained quiet, waiting the result, but a little before
daylight, perceiving that the bell did not cease ringing, they drew
near the fortification, and found it deserted. In the mean time the
Spaniards escaped toward the coast, and in the meager and disconnected
accounts of their dangers and escape, it is, perhaps, not surprising
that we have none whatever of the buildings, arts, and sciences of the
fierce inhabitants of Chichen.
I shall close with one general remark. These cities were, of course,
not all built at one time, but are the remains of different epochs.
Chichen, though in a better state of preservation than most of the
others, has a greater appearance of antiquity; some of the buildings
are no doubt older than others, and long intervals may have elapsed
between the times of their construction.
The Maya manuscript places the first discovery of Chichen within the
epochs corresponding with the time between A.D. 360 and A.D. 432. From
the words used, it may be understood that the discovery was then made
of an actual existing city, but it is a fair construction of these
words to suppose that nothing more is meant than a discovery of what
the words Chi-chen import, viz., the mouths of wells, having reference
to the two great senotes, the discovery of wells being, among all
primitive people, and particularly in the dry region of Yucatan, an
event worthy to be noted in their history.
One of these senotes I have already mentioned; the other I did not
visit till the afternoon preceding our departure from Chichen. Setting
out from the Castillo, at some distance we ascended a wooded elevation,
which seemed an artificial causeway leading to the senote. The senote
was the largest and wildest we had seen; in the midst of a thick
forest, an immense circular hole, with cragged, perpendicular sides,
trees growing out of them and overhanging the brink, and still as if
the genius of silence reigned within. A hawk was sailing around it,
looking down into the water, but without once flapping its wings. The
water was of a greenish hue. A mysterious influence seemed to pervade
it, in unison with the historical account that the well of Chichen was
a place of pilgrimage, and that human victims were thrown into it in
sacrifice. In one place, on the very brink, were the remains of a stone
structure, probably connected with ancient superstitious rites; perhaps
the place from which the victims were thrown into the dark well
beneath.