MEASUREMENTS, MAP MAKING AND KNOTS
1. MEASUREMENTS
Every country has national standards of measures and weights which are
made and kept by the governments as patterns, for measuring and
comparing the instruments made for business purposes. The units of
measure have been fixed by law, for it is most important that people and
countries in dealing with each other shall know exactly what is meant by
such words as yard, foot, pint and pound.
The unit of length used in this country is the yard. It is divided into
three feet and each foot into twelve inches. The foot refers to the
length of a man's foot. It is said that the length of the yard was based
upon the length of the arm of an English king, but that sounds like a
fairy tale. Many of our units of distance and weight have been borrowed
from the English and are more complicated than those used by the French,
whose unit of length is the meter. In 1799, or thereabouts, an
international convention met at Paris to decide what the exact length of
a meter should be, for several countries at that time were using what
was known as the Metric System of Weights and Measures. It was finally
agreed that the length of a meter should be equal to one ten-millionth
of the distance on the earth's surface, from the pole to the equator, or
39.37 inches.
At the same convention a unit of weight was determined. Because water is
so important and familiar it was chosen as the basis for this unit. A
cube of water at 40 centigrade, and measuring on each edge 1/100 of a
meter was taken and called a gram, which is about equal to 15 of our
grains.
All peoples find it necessary in the house, out in the open and in
nearly all forms of occupation to measure and weigh in order to
accomplish their work.
It is part of a Scout's preparedness to know how to measure and weigh
and how to judge measurements and numbers without using measures and
weights.
There are rules for determining length and weight, and it is important
to understand them. Measuring a distance means to find out the length of
the straight line from one point to another. To get a straight line in
the open when walking fix the eyes upon two objects directly in front,
one nearer and smaller than the other. With eyes high walk toward these
objects keeping them always in line. When approaching the first one
choose another to take its place in line with it and the second. Always
have two objects in direct line with the eyes.
This method can be used in marching, rowing, swimming, and when staking
out the points of triangles for measuring distance and height, as it
will give the shortest distance between two points.
There are three general methods of measuring distance accurately. (1)
chaining or taping; (2) telemetry, and (3) triangulation. Less accurate
means of measuring are by sound, pacing and timing.
(1) Chaining and Taping. The regulation chain or tape used by surveyors
is 100 feet long. A Scout may use a shorter line but must follow the
same rules.
Three things must be kept in mind when using a line. a. The straight
distance between two points is to be obtained. b. The point where the
end of the line comes each time must be marked. c. The line must be
stretched tight.
This method can be used in measuring off the distance for pacing to
obtain the average length of one's pace, as suggested in a later
paragraph under Useful Personal Measurements.
(2) Telemetry. The second method is used in determining long distances
for artillery practice and in surveying. It is called telemetry and the
use of an instrument is necessary.
(3) Triangulation. This is a long word but one a Scout can learn to know
and use. It means that the length of the distance can be computed by
means of triangles staked out on the ground, when to measure with a line
would be impossible or not satisfactory. It is not necessary to make the
sides of the triangles, only the points need to be indicated as it is
the relative position of the points which make a triangle and not the
lines. These can be marked in the country with poles, stakes or stones;
in the city Scouts could stand in position at the necessary points.
When using triangles where shall a Scout place the points?
If the width of a stream, road or field is wanted choose a place where
its sides are on about the same level and if possible fairly straight.
Then proceed as shown in the accompanying diagram A. Select a
conspicuous object on the farther bank of the stream, such as a tree,
bush or stone and call it X. Stand opposite it at the near edge of the
stream or on the bank, and place a stake A in front of you keeping X and
A in direct line, walk backward a few feet and plant a stake B in direct
line with them. Right or left face--(for a right angle is necessary at
this point). Pace a straight line for say 20 feet and plant a stake C,
one high enough to be plainly seen; continue the straight line for say
10 feet more and plant a stake D. Turn inland, (another right angle is
here necessary) and pace to the point where the object X on the far
side of the stream can be seen in direct line with the stake C. At this
point place stake E. Measure the distance from E to D. With paper and
pencil mark down the example--for such it is--in this way:
DC : CB :: DE : BX
or
as the length from D to C is to the length of C to B
so
is the length from D to E to the length from B to X
or as in this example,
as 10 is to 20 so 8 is to the distance from B to X, which would be 16.
Having discovered the distance between A and B in the case given, to be
4 feet, take this from the distance between B and X and the result will
give the width of the stream, which is 12 feet.
[Illustration: Diagram A. To Measure Width of Stream or Road]
It may not be always necessary to use the line A--B but if the edge of
the stream or road is crooked it is necessary in order to make B--D a
straight line at right angles to A--X.
In calculating a height, as that of a tree, house or tower, the
triangles can again be used, as shown in diagram B. Choose a level strip
of ground; pace the distance in a straight line, from the base of the
tree A, or tower, to a point some distance from the tree, and plant a
pole or stake say 5 feet high B; continue pacing the straight line to
the point where, lying down with eyes level with the tree base, the top
of the tree can be seen on a line with the top of the pole; plant here
stake C. The height of the tree AA' will be to the length of the
distance from C to A as the height of the pole, BB' is to the distance
between B and C. A Scout can stand in the place of the stake B.
[Illustration: Diagram B. To Measure Height of Tree, Etc.]
[Illustration: Diagram C. To Measure Height with a Mirror]
There are other ways of determining height. As shown in the diagram C,
place a mirror (M) horizontally on the ground reflector side up, some
distance from the base of the object to be measured, in this case a
tent. Walk backward from the mirror in a straight line until the top of
the tent pole can be seen in it. The problem will read in this way: the
distance from the mirror to your heels (MS) is to the distance from your
heels to your eyes (GS) as the distance from the mirror to the base of
the object (MT) is to the height of the object (TT'). Water in a dark
pan or tray or a pool on a still day will answer for a mirror.
[Illustration: Diagram D. To Test a Right Angle]
A right angle can be tested by measuring off 3 feet on one side of the
corner and 4 feet on the other side, as shown in diagram d. If the
distance between the two points is 5 feet the angle is true; if not 5
feet move one point as much as is necessary to make 5 feet.
South American natives estimate height fairly correctly by turning the
back to the object, walking straight away from it to the point where the
top of the object can be seen by bending over and looking between the
legs. Plant a peg at this point and the distance from the peg to the
base of the object is roughly equal to the height.
Sound travels at the rate of 365 yards every second, as many yards as
there are days in the year. By counting the seconds between seeing the
flash from a gun, or the steam puff from a locomotive and hearing the
sound of the explosion or whistle it is possible to figure the length of
the distance between yourself and the gun or locomotive.
It is said that the number of seconds between a flash of lightning and
the thunder will give the distance between you and the place where the
lightning struck.
We use weighing machines or scales in buying food, so that we may
compare the actual amount of food we buy with a standard weight,
otherwise there would be much confusion and business could not be
carried on between peoples. For this reason we use pint, quart, peck
and bushel measures, all of which are regulated by law as to the amount
they hold.
There are some people who have a true feeling or sense for weight and
can tell almost to an ounce the weight of a parcel by lifting it. Others
have a good memory and can tell the weight of a quantity by looking at
it. Others know distance and can estimate it correctly without use of
rule or measure, and likewise judge numbers.
Very few people have this ability naturally, but many have acquired it
by practice and patience and a Scout can do so: she will find many times
that this particular form of knowledge whether in or out of doors is of
benefit.
How often a housekeeper wishes she could tell about how much material to
buy for this or that purpose without getting the yard stick and
measuring. The seamstress and dressmaker must judge length and width and
even height, and the cook constantly has need of a sense of quantity and
size. The photographer, the pioneer, the camper, all must know
measurements. This matter of judging is something we are called upon to
do much more than we have realized. The point is how can we learn the
trick? We should start with something we know and compare to it
something whose size we do not know. This is where knowing your personal
measurement will be of value. Always prove when practicing your idea,
otherwise you will not improve your ability. That is, make your
estimate, then see how near right it is by measuring. Learn to know how
an inch, a foot, a yard look. Then work with longer lengths out of doors
with several feet, and several yards. Fences, roads, streets, dooryards,
houses, all can be judged as to length.
Height is less easy to estimate for we are not so accustomed to looking
up and down as we are to looking forward or back and forth, but the
same rules hold good. Learn to know the height of a chair seat, a table,
your own height, a room, a house, trees: by measuring and looking, and
looking and measuring, you will accomplish much.
To learn to judge weight begin by holding in your hand something that
weighs a pound; after holding it a few moments put it down and then take
it up again always trying to sense the weight. Do not use your eyes,
only your hand. Try a two pound weight and so on. Then take up something
else the weight of which you do not know and see if you can tell its
weight. Practice, patience and memory are necessary in this work.
There is another way of judging weight, one in which our eyes help us.
Knowing how a pound of butter looks as to size we can judge the weight
of a mass of butter by looking at it and comparing it mentally with what
we know. We can follow this method in judging the weight of different
goods, but as each kind when put in pound quantities looks more or less
different from every other kind, experience and knowledge of the
character of the goods is necessary. A pound of butter and a pound of
feathers do not make the same size bundle so the weight of each could
not be judged by the same eye standard.
By practice a Girl Scout should be able to do the following things in
the way of judging height, weight and distance:
(1) Be able to judge within 25 per cent the
following: Height of a tree, house, pole, etc.,
not exceeding 50 feet. Material, 1, 3, 15, 18, 27,
30, 36, 42 and 56 inches. Diameter of the trunk of
a tree, a pole, water pipe or similar object.
Distance of 6, 10, 15, 25 and 100 feet. (This is
useful in camera work.)
(2) Pick out from a miscellaneous assortment
bottles of 2, 4, 6 and 8 ounces. Bottles of 1
pint, 1 quart, 1 gallon. Pails, 1 pint, 1 quart, 2
quarts, 1 gallon.
(3) Be able without scales to weigh out specified
amounts of sugar, flour or other household
materials, for example, 1, 5 or 10 pounds.
(4) Be able to pick out from an assortment,
packages of rice, tea, cornmeal, etc., weighing
1/2, 1, 2, 5 and 10 pounds.
(5) Be able to give in the usual measures, either
avoirdupois or metric, capacity of the standard
teaspoon, tablespoon, teacup.
(6) Be able to tell when you have walked a mile in
open country. This may be done by using Scout's
Pace for 12 minutes, on a fifty walk, fifty run
rhythm, or by knowing one's own walking step
length.
(7) Be able to judge of spaces between distant
objects such as the distance between two trees,
the width of a road, or a brook, by the
triangulation method.
USEFUL PERSONAL MEASURES
It is sometimes a great convenience to measure a length of ribbon, lace
or other goods without the use of a rule or tape measure; but what shall
we use in their place? Look at your thumb--how long is it from the end
to the first joint? And the middle finger, from the end to the knuckle
on the back of the hand? Isn't it nearly four and one-half inches or
one-eighth of a yard? That is what the average grown person's finger
measures. To get the correct length of your finger, hold the end of a
tape line to the end of the finger with the thumb of the same hand, draw
the tape measure tight over the bent finger to the knuckle. This is a
very useful measure for short lengths.
Another measure for longer lengths is the distance from the end of your
nose, when your head is turned sharply to one side, to the end of your
thumb when your arm is stretched straight out from the shoulder in the
opposite direction. Measure and find out this distance for yourself by
holding the very end of a ribbon, tape or rope with the left hand to the
end of the nose, head turned to the left, and with the right hand run
the fingers along the edge of the ribbon until it is stretched to arm's
length. Marking the ribbon with a pin where the right thumb and
forefinger have held it, measure the distance with a yard measure or
rule from the end of the ribbon to the pin. This length will be about
the same as the standard unit of length used in this country. When
measuring a long length of goods, use the point held by the right hand
as the starting point to be held by left hand.
If you know the distance between the end of your little finger and the
end of your thumb when they are stretched apart, the palm of the hand
being flat, you can measure a distance such as the length of a table,
shelf, pole, etc. When judging the height of a person, remember that the
distance from the top of the head to the chin is about one-ninth of the
height of the body. The distance between the middle fingers when the
arms are stretched straight out from the shoulders is about equal to the
height of the body.
Another personal measure that is of value is the length of one's average
pace or stride; that is, the distance from the toe of one boot to the
toe of the other when walking a natural gait. It is also useful to know
the average number of paces taken in walking a given distance, such as a
mile, and the time required to make them. All of this information can be
obtained in a very simple way. Measure off as accurately as possible 220
yards, which is one-eighth of a mile, or take a known distance, and
pace it back and forth at least eight times, but not all in one day.
Each time keep a record of the number of paces taken and the time
required to pace the distance. Divide the sum of the paces by the number
of times paced and the result will be the average number of paces for
the distance. Then divide the whole distance by the average number of
paces and get the average length of your pace. Divide the sum of the
minutes spent in pacing the distance by the number of times paced, and
get the average length of time required to walk the distance. When the
average length of pace is known, the distance between two points can be
quite accurately estimated by pacing, if the ground is open, level and
solid. If up or down grade, if the ground is muddy or heavy, or there
are other causes which retard the gait, a reduction must be made.
None of the above methods for measuring are scientific, therefore are
not accurate, but they are useful ways of measuring _approximately_
lengths and distances by means of a guide always at hand.
2. MAP MAKING FOR GIRL SCOUTS
The word map calls to our mind a picture of lines, angles, dots and
circles which tell us something about a position of the surface of the
earth. It gives us an idea of distance and direction, indicates heights
and sometimes tells of interesting land conditions. What we see are but
symbols representing a more or less true picture. This method of telling
a story is very old; as long ago as 1370 B. C. it was used to show the
location of the then famous Nubian Gold Mines. This ancient map is now
preserved in the Museum of Turin.
Later, in 611 B. C. the first map of the world was made--the world as
men knew it then. They thought it was like a hollow cylinder and
surrounded by a river. By 276 B. C. maps were used and understood quite
generally.
They were named originally after the material upon which they were
painted or drawn. Map from Mappa, meaning cloth, and chart from charta,
meaning parchment. Even today maps are made on cloth when for use in the
open by cyclists, military men, and so forth, and charts are those maps
filling the needs of seamen. Savage tribes used maps made of horn, bone
and wood.
In the 15th century the first printed maps were made and now many
processes are used in reproducing these valuable and necessary graphic
pictures, every line and dot of which have been made out of someone's
experience. The explorer, the pioneer, the navigator, all contributing
to the store of knowledge of the earth's surface, and many times having
thrilling adventures, surviving terrible conditions that the earth may
be known as it really appears.
Although maps are made to scale and every distance computed most
accurately by the use of very fine instruments, Scouts can accomplish
the real purpose of maps in a small and simple way, for they are after
all, but guides to those who follow.
Knowing a delightful road or trail, one can by a map guide others to it,
or by making a map of a city, or country district helps a stranger to
find his way about. Our maps must contain as the all important features:
Direction, Distance, Points of Identification, and the explanation on
the margin of the map of all symbols or conventional signs used. For
hiking purposes a starting-point and a goal are necessary, all
cross-roads must be indicated--streams, bridges, trails, springs, points
of interest, vantage points for extended views, and so forth.
A city map should note beside streets, the car lines or bus lines,
public buildings, library, churches, hotels, stores, police station,
public telephone booths, a doctor's office, fire alarm box and post
box.
A village map should show in addition the way to the nearest large town
or city, give the railroad station, and so forth.
Direction is shown by symbol, an arrow or a line with an N pointing to
the North, which should be at the top of the map, and all lines and
signs should be made in relation to it.
Distance is shown by what is known as scale. It would be impossible and
unnecessary in making a map to use the exact measurements of distances
existing in any given portion of the country, but we can indicate those
distances by drawing our map even though very small so that lines,
angles, circles and dots will bear the same relation to each other as
the points they represent bear to each other. This is done by using a
small measure to represent a large measure. If 1 inch was used to
represent a mile, a map showing 80 square miles of ground, measuring
8×10 miles could be drawn on a comparatively small piece of paper.
Whatever scale is used must be noted on the map, however.
The true distances are found by pacing or by triangulation. The
interesting, helpful and necessary points are learned by observation.
These are the real guides when using a map and these should be placed
most correctly. Some of the symbols most generally used in map making
are shown in the accompanying cut.
To be able to read a map is quite as important as making one. Signs must
be understood, distances read, and directions known. It will help in
ascertaining the latter point to hold the map so its position will be
true to the points of the compass--the East to the East. This is called
orienting a map.
[Illustration: CONVENTIONAL SIGNS OF MAP MAKING
Camp Post office Telegraph
office
City, Town or Buildings Church
village
School W. W. Hos.
Water works Hospital
Windmill cem. Ruins
Cemetery
Fence Barbed smooth Stone
(any or board) Wire Fence Fence
Wagon Footpath or Wagon Road
Road Trail (unfenced)
Railroad Double Track Trolley
Station R. R. Line]
[Illustration:
general symbol streams spring
or
Foot Falls and
Rapids or
Bridges
Telegraph Lines
Ferries Grassland Cultivated
Fields
Lake or Pool Corn Cotton
Marshes Orchard
Woods of Any Kind Pine Woods
MORE CONVENTIONAL SIGNS OF MAP MAKING]
A sketch map, not made to scale or true as to direction or distance, but
giving enough accurate information to serve in guiding a stranger truly,
can be made very quickly and easily if the district sketched has
been observed closely. Observation is at the root of map making.
[Illustration: MAP OF GIRL SCOUT CAMP MADE BY SCOUT]
The reproduced sketch of a map made by Girl Scout, will be a guide to
the Scout who is learning how to tell a story by symbols.
THE COMPASS
The Mariner's Compass is an instrument which shows
where the North, and other directions, are. Boxing
the Compass consists in enumerating the points
beginning with North and working around the circle
as follows:
NORTH
North by East
North, Northeast
Northeast by North
Northeast
Northeast by East
East, Northeast
East by North
EAST
East by South
East, Southeast
Southeast by East
Southeast
Southeast by South
South, Southeast
South by East
SOUTH
South by West
South, Southwest
Southwest by South
Southwest
Southwest by West
West, Southwest
West by South
WEST
West by North
West, Northwest
Northwest by West
Northwest
Northwest by North
North by West
NORTH
How to Find Points of Compass Without a Compass
Every Scout should be able to find the North
without a compass. By day the sun will tell you
where the North is, and the stars by night.
How to Tell the Points of the Compass by the Sun
The sun rises in the east and sets in the west.
Any time before noon, if you stand facing the sun,
North is at your left hand: after noon, if you
face the sun, North is at your right hand.
The Phoenicians, who sailed round Africa in
ancient times, noticed that when they started the
sun rose on their left-hand side--they were going
south. Then they reported that they got to a
strange country where the sun got up in the wrong
quarter, namely on their right hand. The truth was
that they had gone round the Cape of Good Hope and
were steering north again up the coast of Africa.
[Illustration: Mariner's Compass]
Probably the most accurate way to find North, if you have no compass, is
to use an open-faced watch. Holding the watch flat, turn it so that the
small or hour hand points directly toward the sun. The South will then
be half way between the hour hand and the figure XII on the dial. Before
noon the halfway point is between the hour hand and XII clockwise, and
after noon it is between the hour hand and XII counter-clockwise.
How to Find North by the Stars
All stars appear to rise in the east and set in the west, which is
really due to our earth turning around under them. But one star never
moves in relation to us, and that is Polaris, the North Star, which
stands still over the north pole to show us where North is.
3. KNOTS AND THEIR USES FOR GIRL SCOUTS
It doubtless seems very strange to you that a Girl Scout should have to
know how to handle a rope and tie knots according to rules. Most people
have never dreamed that there are rules for these things; they have made
knots, when necessary, in a way peculiar to themselves and have been
quite surprised that the knots come out when they are expected to hold
fast and hold fast when they are expected to come out.
Ropes and knots have been in use by all peoples for many years. The
rules concerning them have been developed and perfected as time has
passed until now there is no question as to the usefulness of these
things and the way to handle them correctly.
As the sailors and the engineers have worked with ropes and knots more
than others, it is to them that we go for our information. We need all
we can get, for today in nearly all forms of occupation twine, cord and
rope are used and knots are tied. As the Girl Scout who wants to be a
Golden Eaglet takes up many of these occupations, she needs to know how
to tie knots quickly, in the dark if necessary, and correctly, for then
they will hold fast yet can be readily untied. These are essential
requirements to be remembered, but just as important is the fact that
purposes and uses of knots differ greatly.
Every Scout should have five feet of one-quarter inch Manila rope,
whipped at both ends. With this small piece, which only represents the
much larger rope needed in many cases for practical purposes, all of the
required knots can be made and nearly all of their uses demonstrated.
Have you ever made a blanket roll, put it across your shoulder, hiked
through the woods or over the hills for a sleep in the open? Where would
all your necessary articles have been if you had not tied them snugly
in the roll? Without them you would have been far from happy.
Or have you pulled a sled up a long hill over and over again for the
sake of the slide down? How about the little knots that held the rope in
place--did you ever think of them? There are many things we do for the
sake of a good time where knots and rope are indispensable.
An interesting story is told by a Girl Scout who watched two men trying
to hang a very large and heavy curtain which was to be used as part of
the stage setting for an entertainment. The men tried to tie two ropes
together, one of which was considerably larger than the other. Every
knot they tied was pulled out by the weight of the curtains. Finally the
men were quite ready to say "It cannot be done." It was then that the
Girl Scout offered her services. The men looked at her doubtfully, but
said, "Go ahead." Of course she tied a knot that held fast; then she had
to teach it to the men. You see, she could be helpful, for she knew the
kind of knot that would hold two ropes of unequal thickness together and
knew how to make it.
Did you ever notice how few people know how to tie bundles and packages
securely and neatly? Yet this is a most helpful thing to do. Parcels
that go through the post or by express are handled roughly and unless
tied with special care they are not delivered in good condition.
Sometimes we find ourselves in the midst of unusual surroundings where
we can be of service if we know what to do and how to do it. A Scout is
sometimes called upon to give First Aid, possibly to tie on splints, a
bandage, or a sling; or use a life-line.
Once a boat was swept over one of the lesser falls at Niagara. In it
were three people--a father, mother and their son. A group of men and
women standing on the bridge saw the accident; one of them ran for a
rope and threw the end over the side of the bridge calling to those in
the water to catch it. One succeeded, but the rope slipped through his
hands almost immediately because there was neither a loop nor a knot to
hold on to.
[Illustration: 1. Square or Reef Knot]
These stories, which are true, make us realize the importance of
knowing something of ropes and knots, that we may Be Prepared when our
services are needed.
Parts of a Rope
The three parts of a rope are:
1. The End, the part used in leading;
2. The Bight, a loop made by bending the rope back
on itself and holding it in place;
3. The Standing Part, the long portion of the rope
not used when tying a knot.
1. Square or Reef Knot
The name of the knot the purpose of which is to tie together two ends of
equal thickness, either to make them fast or to lengthen a rope, is the
Square or Reef knot. It is made so that the ends come out alongside of
the standing part and the knot will not jam. It is used when tying
bundles, such as the blanket-roll, and packages; for tying on splints,
fastening the ends of a sling or mending broken strings, ropes or cords,
as shoestrings, clotheslines, etc. It is the knot used more commonly
than any other.
To make the Square Knot:
Take an end in each hand;
Cross the end in the right hand over the end in the left hand;
Bend it around the rope in the left hand;
Cross the end in the left hand over the end in the right hand;
Bend it around the rope in the right hand;
Pull tight.
2. Sheet-bend
Another knot that is used for tying two ends together, generally those
of unequal thickness, or for fastening an end to a permanent loop, is
the Sheet-bend.
[Illustration: 2a. Sheet Bend: Loose]
[Illustration: 2b. Sheet Bend: Drawn Tight]
To make a Sheet-bend:
Make in the end of the larger rope a small bight or use the permanent
loop in its place;
Pass the end of the smaller rope up through the bight;
Under the bight;
Over the bight;
Under its own standing part;
Pull the loops tight.
This is the way the Girl Scout tied the rope together for the stage
hands.
3. Bowline-Knot
If the people on the bridge at Niagara Falls had made a Bowline-knot in
the end of the rope before throwing it as a life-line they might have
saved one if not three lives. A Bowline is used chiefly for hoisting and
lowering; it can be used for a halter or with the Sheet-bend in making a
guard-line or fence. It is a knot holding fast a loop which can be made
of any size and which will not jam or give.
To make a Bowline-knot:
Take the end in the right hand;
Draw the rope toward you over the palm of the left hand, measuring off
as much as is needed to make the required size loop;
Drop the end;
Make a small bight in the palm of the left hand by turning the rope
toward the ends of the fingers;
Take the end in the right hand;
Pass it up through the bight;
Back of and around the standing part;
Down through the bight;
Pull the end and the rope forming the loop against the standing part.
When the Bowline is used for hoisting or lowering a person as in case of
fire, the loop should be large enough to be used as a seat; it should be
passed over the head and shoulders, the standing part in front of the
body, to be held on to with both hands.
When using a rope for a life-line:
Fasten securely one end to something that will not give.
Make a Bowline at the other end of the line large enough to go over the
head and shoulders;
Hold the knot in the right hand, the end toward you;
Take the standing part in the left hand, measure off about three feet of
rope;
Draw the rope toward you, pass it over the palm of the right hand and
hold fast.
Again measure off the same amount, draw the rope toward you, pass it
over the palm of the right hand, and hold fast;
Continue this process until enough rope is coiled to more than cover the
distance to the person in the water.
Grasp the coil firmly in the right hand;
Hold the standing part in the left hand;
Draw the right arm back from the shoulder;
[Illustration: 3. Bowline]
Swing the arm forward and throw the coil out over the water to the
person in distress;
Make sure that the person in the water gets a firm grasp on the rope;
Quickly take the standing part in both hands;
Pull on the rope with a hand over hand motion, keep the line taut and
pull the person to safety.
Do not make the mistake of throwing the coil "up"; throw it _out_ over
the water.
The important points to remember when using a rope for rescue work are
to fasten the free end so the rope will not slip out of reach; to coil
the rope properly so it will not kink or knot when let out; and to make
a Bowline large enough to go around the body.
When a group of Scouts make a guard line, each girl makes a Bowline in
the end of her rope, large enough to put her hand through, fasten her
right-hand neighbor's rope to it by means of a Sheet-bend and holds her
portion of the line in place by using the Bowline in her rope for a
handle.
[Illustration: 4. Two Half-Hitches]
Two Half-hitches are used to make fast an end of rope to a pole, post,
etc. It is a knot that can be easily undone. It is used for hauling,
fastening awning ropes, flag ropes, etc.
To make a Half-hitch:
Take the end in the right hand;
Pass the end under and around the pole;
Around the standing part:
Under itself, forming a bight out of which the standing part comes.
Repeat this for the second half-hitch, using standing part in place of
pole.
[Illustration: 5. Clove-Hitch]
The purpose of a Clove-hitch, which is also called the Builders' Knot,
is to make fast an end of rope, generally to a post or tree. This knot
holds securely and does not slip laterally. It is of value when
tethering an animal or tying a boat. It can be used for fastening an
awning rope, tent ropes, for tying on splints or fastening the end of a
bandage when it is used to confine a delirious person.
A fence or guard-line can be made where trees or posts are available by
tying the end of the rope by means of a Half-hitch to the first tree,
and then using a Clove-hitch on the other trees or posts.
To tie the Clove-hitch:
Take the end in the right hand;
Pass it around the post;
Over the standing part;
Continue around the post;
Under the standing part;
Slip the end up through the lower loop;
Pull tight.
[Illustration: 6. Sheep-Shank]
The purpose of a Sheep-shank is to take up slack or shorten a rope
temporarily. It is used on tent ropes, tow lines.
To make the Sheep-shank:
Cross the hands and take hold of the rope;
Take up the slack by drawing the hands past each other;
Hold the two long loops firmly in one hand;
Make a bight in the rope between the loop and the end;
Pass the loop through the bight;
Do the same thing at the other end.
The knot will stay in place so long as the rope is taut.
If it is necessary to shorten a rope when neither end is held fast, make
the Sheep-shank and pass each end through the bight nearest to it.
[Illustration: Ready For Transportation or Storage]
When in uniform a Girl Scout hangs her rope on a belt-hook placed in her
belt or skirt-binding.
_To have the rope in a convenient form:_
Make two loops five or six inches long at one end of the rope;
Leaving a small bight at the top to go over the hook, bind the loops
together by winding the standing part around them;
Hold the end fast by putting it through the remaining bight.
_To serve or whip the ends of a Scout rope so they will not fray:_
Take a piece of soft twine twelve or fourteen inches long;
Make a loop two inches long at one end;
Lay the loop on the rope, the end of the twine extending beyond the rope
end an inch;
Bind the rope and loop together by winding the standing part tightly and
closely around them;
Slip the end down through the loop, which must not be entirely covered
by the binding;
Pull the other end of the twine and draw the loop under the binding.
As the twine will be held fast, the ends can be cut off close to the
rope.
A "knot board," showing the various knots tied perfectly and names
attached, ends of rope whipped, bights, loops and coils, is an
interesting bit of work for a Troop of Girl Scouts to do. The board hung
in the Troop room would be a help to new Scouts, and it could be loaned
to Troops that are not registered, but are learning the Tenderfoot test,
which includes knot-tying.
Glossary
Belt-hook--A double hook in the form of the letter
S. Sometimes called S-hook.
Bight--A loop made by bending a rope back on
itself and holding it in place.
Coil--A series of rings, one on top of another,
into which a rope is wound.
Cord--A string or small rope composed of several
strands of thread or vegetable fiber twisted and
woven together.
End--One of the terminal points of that which has
more length than breadth. The part of a rope used
in leading.
Hemp--An annual herbaceous plant. The fiber,
obtained from the skin or rind by rotting the
stalks of the plant under moisture is prepared in
various ways for twisting into ropes, cables, and
weaving coarse fabrics.
Knot--An interlacement of twine, cord, rope or
other flexible material formed by twisting the
ends about each other and then drawing tight the
loop thus made.
Life-line--A rope used in rescuing; it should have
a Bowline in one end and the other end should be
secured to something that will not give.
Loop--An opening through which something can be
passed.
Manila rope--A rope made from Manila hemp, a
fibrous material which is obtained from the leaves
of plants which grow in the Philippine Islands.
Rope--A cord of considerable thickness,
technically over one inch in circumference. Ropes
are made of hemp, manila, flax, cotton or other
vegetable fiber or of iron, steel or other
metallic wire. A rope is sometimes called a line.
They are composed of threads which are spun or
twisted into strands and the finished ropes have
special names, according to the number of the
strands, and the various sizes are indicated by
the circumference in inches.
Standing part--The long portion of a rope not used
when tying a knot.
String--A slender cord, a thick thread.
Twine--A double thread; a thread made of two
strands twisted.