LETTER FROM DR. LE PLONGEON.

ISLAND OF COZUMEL, YUCATAN,}

June 15, 1877. }

_Stephen Salisbury, jr., esq., Worcester, Mass.:_--

Dear Sir,-- ... The London Times of Wednesday, January 3, 1877,

contains views on the projected congress of the so-called

Americanists, that is expected to be held at Luxembourg in

September next. Was the writing intended for a damper? If so, it

did not miss its aim. It must have frozen to the very core the

enthusiasm of the many dreamers and speculators on the prehistoric

nations that inhabited this western continent. As for me, I felt

its chill even under the burning rays of the tropical sun of

Yucatan, notwithstanding I am, or ought to be, well inured to them

during the four years that my wife and myself are rambling among

the ruined cities of the Mayas.

True, I am but a cool searcher of the stupendous monuments of the

mighty races that are no more, but have left the history of their

passage on earth written on the stones of the palaces of their

rulers, upon the temples of their gods. The glowing fires of

enthusiasm do not overheat my imagination, even if the handiwork of

the ancient artists and architects--if the science of the Itza

_H-Menes_--wise men, fill my heart with a surprise akin to

admiration. Since four years we ask the stones to disclose the

secrets they conceal. The portraits of the ancient kings, those of

the men with long beards, who seem to have held high offices among

these people, have become familiarized with us, and we with them.

At times they appear to our eyes to be not quite devoid of life,

not entirely deaf to our voice. Not unfrequently the meaning of

some sculpture, of some character, of some painting,--till then

obscure, unintelligible, puzzling,--all of a sudden becomes clear,

easy to understand, full of meaning.

Many a strange story of human greatness and pride, of human, petty

and degrading passions, weakness and imperfections, has thus been

divulged to us;--while we were also told of the customs of the

people; of the scientific acquirements of the _H-Menes_; of the

religious rites observed by the _kins_ (priests); of their

impostures, and of the superstition they inculcated to the masses;

of the communication held by the merchants of Chichen with the

traders from Asia and Africa; of the politeness of courtiers and

gracefulness of the queen; of the refinement of the court; of the

funeral ceremonies, and of the ways they disposed of the dead; of

the terrible invasions of barbarous Nahua tribes; of the

destruction, at their hands, of the beautiful metropolis

Chichen-Itza, the centre of civilization, the emporium of the

countries comprised between the eastern shores of Mayapan and the

western of Xibalba; of the subsequent decadence of the nations; of

their internal strife during long ages. For here, in reckoning

time, we must not count by centuries but millenaries. We do not, in

thus speaking, indulge in conjectures--for, verily, the study of

the walls leaves no room for supposition to him who quietly

investigates and compares.

How far Mrs. Le Plongeon and myself have been able to interpret the

mural paintings, bas-reliefs, sculptures and hieroglyphics, the

results of our labors show. (Some of them have been lately

published in the "Illustration Hispano-Americana" of Madrid.) The

excavating of the magnificent statue of the Itza king, Chac-Mool,

buried about five thousand years ago by his wife, the queen of

Chichen, at eight metres under ground (that statue has just been

wrenched from our hands by the Mexican government, without even an

apology, but the photographs may be seen at the residence of Mr.

Henry Dixon, No. 112 Albany street, Regent park, London, and the

engravings of it in the "Ilustracion Hispano-Americana"); the

knowledge of the place where lies that of Huuncay, the elder

brother of Chac-Mool, interred at twelve metres under the

surface--of the site where the _H-Menes_ hid their libraries

containing the history of their nation--the knowledge and sciences

they had attained, would of itself be an answer to Professor

Mommsen's ridiculous assertion, that we are anxious to find what

_cannot be known_, or what would be _useless_ if discovered. It is

not the place here to refute the learned professor's sayings; nor

is it worth while. Yet I should like to know if he would refuse as

_useless_ the treasures of King Priam because made of gold that

belongs to the archaic times--what gold does not? Or, if he would

turn up his nose at the wealth of Agamemnon because he knows that

the gold and precious stones that compose it were wrought by

artificers who lived four thousand years ago, should Dr. Schliemann

feel inclined to offer them to him. What says Mr. Mommsen?

Besides my discovery of the statues, bas-reliefs, etc., etc., which

would be worth many thousands of pounds sterling to--if the Mexican

government did not rob them from--the discoverers, the study of the

works of generations that have preceded us affords me the pleasure

of following the tracks of the human mind through the long vista of

ages to discover that its pretended progress and development are

all imaginary, at least on earth. I have been unable to the present

day to trace it. I really see no difference between the civilized

man of today and the civilized man of five thousand years ago. I do

not perceive that the human mind is endowed in our times with

powers superior to those it possessed in ages gone by, but clearly

discern that these powers are directed in different channels. Will

Professor Mommsen pretend that this is also _useless_ after being

found? Man today is the same as man was when these monuments, which

cause the wonder of the modern traveller, were reared. Is he not

influenced by the same instincts, the same wants, the same

aspirations, the same mental and physical diseases?

I consider mankind alike to the waters of the ocean; their surface

is ever changing, while in their depths is the same eternal,

unchangeable stillness and calm. So man superficially. He reflects

the images of times and circumstances. His intellect develops and

expands only according to the necessities of the moment and place.

As the waves, he cannot pass the boundaries assigned to him by the

unseen, impenetrable Power to which all things are subservient. He

is irresistibly impulsed toward his inevitable goal--the grave.

There, as far as he positively knows, all his powers are silenced.

But from there also he sees springing new forms of life that have

to fulfil, in their turn, their destiny in the great laboratory of

creation. The exploration of the monuments of past generations, all

bearing the peculiarities, the idiosyncracies of the builders, has

convinced me that the energies of human mind and intellect are the

same in all times. They come forth in proportion to the

requirements of the part they are to represent in the great drama

of life, the means in the stupendous mechanism of the universe

being always perfectly and wisely adapted to the ends. It is

therefore absurd to judge of mental attainments of man in different

epochs and circumstances by comparison with our actual

civilization. For me the teachings of archæology are these:

"Tempora mutantur, mores etiam in illis; sicut ante homini etiam

manent anima et mens."

Alchemists have gone out of fashion, thank God! Would that the old

sort of antiquaries, who lose their time, and cause others to lose

theirs also, in discussing idle speculations, might follow suit.

History requires facts,--these facts, proofs. These proofs are not

to be found in the few works of the travellers that have hastily

visited the monuments that strew the soil of Central America,

Mexico and Peru, and given of them descriptions more or less

accurate--very often erroneous--with appreciations always affected

by their individual prejudices. The customs and attainments of all

sorts of the nations that have lived on the western continent,

before it was America, must be studied in view of the monuments

they have left; or of the photographs, tracings of mural paintings,

etc., etc., which are as good as the originals themselves. Not even

the writings of the chroniclers of the time of the Spanish conquest

can be implicitly relied upon. The writers on the one hand were in

all cases blinded by their religious fanaticism; in many by their

ignorance; on the other, the people who inhabited the country at

the time of the arrival of the conquerors were not the builders of

the ancient monuments. Many of these were then in ruins and looked

upon by the inhabitants, as they are today, with respect and awe.

True, many of the habits and customs of the ancients, to a certain

extent, existed yet among them; but disfigured, distorted by time,

and the new modes of thinking and living introduced by the

invaders; while, strange to say, the language remained unaltered.

Even today, in many places in Yucatan the descendants of the

Spanish conquerors have forgotten the native tongue of their sires,

and only speak _Maya_, the idiom of the vanquished. Traditions,

religious rites, superstitious practices, dances, were handed down

from generation to generation. But, as the sciences were of old the

privilege of the few, the colleges and temples of learning having

been destroyed at the downfall of Chichen, the knowledge was

imparted by the fathers to their sons, under the seal of the utmost

secrecy. Through the long vista of generations, notwithstanding the

few books that existed at the time of the conquest, and were in

great part destroyed by Bishop Landa and other fanatical monks, the

learning of the _H-Menes_ became adulterated in passing from mouth

to mouth, merely committed to memory, and was at last lost and

changed into the many ridiculous notions and strange practices said

to have been consigned afterward to these writings.

Withal the knowledge of reading those books was retained by some of

the descendants of the _H-Menes_. I would not take upon myself to

assert positively that some of the inhabitants of Peten--the place

where the Itzas took refuge at the beginning of the Christian era

after the destruction of their city--are not still in possession of

the secret. At all events, I was told that people who could read

the Maya _pic-huun_ (books), and to whom the deciphering of the

_Uooh_ (letters) and the figurative characters was known, existed

as far back as forty years ago, but kept their knowledge a secret,

lest they should be persecuted by the priests as wizards and their

precious volume wrenched from them and destroyed. The Indians hold

them yet in great veneration. I am ready to give full credit to

this assertion, for during my rambles and explorations in Peru and

Bolivia I was repeatedly informed that people existed ensconced in

remote nooks of the Andes, who could interpret the _quippus_

(string writing) and yet made use of them to register their family

records, keep account of their droves of llamas and other

property.

I will not speak here at length of the monuments of Peru, that

during eight years I have diligently explored; for, with but few

exceptions, they dwindle into insignificance when compared with the

majestic structures reared by the Mayas, the Caras, or Carians, and

other nations of Central America, and become, therefore, devoid of

interest in point of architecture and antiquity; excepting,

however, the ruins of Tiahuanaco, that were already ruins at the

time of the foundation of the Incas' empire, in the eleventh

century of our era, and so old that the memory of the builders was

lost in the abysm of time. The Indians used to say that these were

the work of giants who lived _before the sun shone in the heavens_.

It is well known that the Incas had no writing characters or

hieroglyphics. The monuments raised by their hands do not afford

any clew to their history. Dumb walls merely, their mutism leaves

large scope to imagination, and one may conjecture any but the

right thing. Of the historical records of that powerful but

short-lived dynasty we have nothing left but the few imperfect and

rotten _quippus_ which are occasionally disinterred from the

_huacas_.

If we desire to know anything about the civil laws and policy, the

religious rites and ceremonies of the Incas, their scanty

scientific attainments, and their very few and rude artistic

attempts, we are obliged to recur to the "Comentarios reales" of

Garcilasso de la Vega, to the _Décadas_ of Herrera, to Zarata and

other writers of the time of the conquest of Peru by Francisco

Pizarro. None of them--Montesinos excepted--try to shed any light

on the origin of _Manco-Ceapac_ and that of his sister and wife,

_Mama-Oello_, nor on the state of the country before their arrival

at Cuzco.

I have been most happy in my researches into the history of this

founder of the Inca dynasty, whom many consider a mere mythical

being. In the library of the British Museum I came across an old

Spanish manuscript, written by a Jesuit father, A. Anilla, under,

as he asserts, the dictation of a certain _Catári_, an

ex-_quippucamayoe_,--archive-keeper.

Writing now from memory, far away from my books, notes, plans,

etc., etc., left for safe-keeping in the hands of a friend in

Merida, I do not remember the number of the catalogue. But it is

easy to look for "_Las vidas de los hombres ilustres de la compania

de Jesus en las Provincias del Peru_," where I have read of the

origin of Manco-Ceapac, of his wanderings from the sea coasts to

those of the lake of Titicaca, and hence through the country till

at last he arrived at the village of Cuzco, where he was kindly

received by the inhabitants and established himself. This MS. also

speaks of the history of his ancestors, of their arrival at Tumbes

after leaving their homes in the countries of the north in search

of some lost relatives, of their slow progress toward the South,

and the vain inquiries about their friends, etc., etc. Now that I

have studied part of the history of the Mayas and become acquainted

with their customs, as pictured in the mural paintings that adorn

the walls of the inner room of the monument raised to the memory of

Chac-Mool by the Queen of Itza, his wife, on the south end of the

east wall of the gymnasium, at Chichen (the tracings of these

paintings are in our power), and also in the traditions and customs

of their descendants, by comparing them with those of the Quichuas,

I cannot but believe that Manco's ancestors emigrated from Xibalba

or Mayapan, carrying with them the notions of the mother country,

which they inculcated to their sons and grandsons, and introduced

them among the tribes that submitted to their sway.

Let it be remembered that the Quichua was not the mother-tongue of

the Incas, who in court spoke a language unknown to the common

people. They, for political motives, and particularly to destroy

the feuds that existed between the inhabitants of the different

provinces of their vast dominions, ordered the Quichua to be taught

to and learned by everybody, and to be regarded as the tongue of

_Ttahuantinsuyu_. Their subjects, from however distant parts of the

empire could then also understand each other, and came with time to

consider themselves as members of the same family.

I have bestowed some attention upon the study of the Quichua. Not

being acquainted with the dialects of the Aryan nations previous

to their separation, I would not pretend to impugn the grand

discovery of Mr. Lopez. But I can positively assert that

expressions are not wanting in the Peruvian tongue that bear as

strong a family resemblance to the dialects spoken in the Sandwich

Islands and Tahiti, where I resided a few months, as the ruins of

Tiahuanaco to those of Easter Island, that are composed of stones

not to be found today in that place. When I visited it I was struck

with the perfect similitude of the structures found there and the

colossal statues, which forcibly recalled to my mind those said by

Pinelo to have existed in Tiahuanaco even at the time of the

Spanish conquest. This similarity in the buildings and language of

the people separated by such obstacles as the deep water of the

Pacific, hundreds of miles apart, cannot be attributed to a mere

casual coincidence. To my mind it plainly shows that communications

at some epoch or other have existed between these countries. On

this particular point I have a theory of my own, which I think I

can sustain by plausible facts, not speculative; but this is not

the place to indulge in theories. I will, therefore, refrain from

intruding mine on your readers. On the other hand, they are welcome

to see it in the discourse I have pronounced before the American

Geographical Society of New York in January, 1873, which has been

published in the New York Tribune, lecture sheet No. 8.

The Quichua contains also many words that seem closely allied to

the dialects spoken by the nations inhabiting the regions called

today Central America and the Maya tongue. It would not be

surprising that some colony emigrating from these countries should

have reached the beautiful valley of Cuzco, and established

themselves in it, in times so remote that we have no tradition even

of the event. It is well known that the Quichua was the language of

the inhabitants of the valley of Cuzco exclusively before it became

generalized in _Ttahuantinsuyu_, and it is today the place where it

is spoken with more perfection and purity.

In answer to the question, if man came from the older (?) world of

Asia,--and if so how, there are several points to consider, and not

the least important relates to the relative antiquity of the

continents. You are well aware that geologists, naturalists and

other scientists are not wanting who, with the late Professor

Agassiz, sustain that this western continent is as old, if not

older, than Asia and Europe, or Africa. Leaving this question to be

settled by him who may accomplish it, I will repeat here what I

have sustained long ago: that the American races are autochthonous,

and have had many thousand years ago relations with the inhabitants

of the other parts of the earth just as we have them today. This

fact I can prove by the mural paintings and bas-reliefs, and more

than all by the portraits of men with long beards that are to be

seen in Chichen Itza, not to speak of the Maya tongue, which

contains expressions from nearly every language spoken in olden

times (to this point I will recur hereafter), and also by the small

statues of tumbaya (a mixture of silver and copper) found in the

huacas of Chimu, near Trujillo on the Peruvian coast, and by those

of the valley of Chincha.

These statues, which seem to belong to a very ancient date,

generally represent a man seated cross-legged on the back of a

turtle. The head is shaved, except the top, where the hair is left

to grow, and is plaited Chinese fashion. Not unfrequently the arms

are extended, the hands rest upon pillars inscribed with characters

much resembling Chinese. I have had one of these curious objects

long in my possession. Notwithstanding being much worn by time and

the salts contained in the earth, it was one of the most perfect I

have seen. It was found in the valley of Chincha. I showed it one

day to a learned Chinaman, and was quite amused in watching his

face while he examined the image. His features betrayed so vividly

the different emotions that preyed upon his mind,--curiosity,

surprise, awe, superstitious fear. I asked him if he understood the

characters engraved on the pillars? "Yes," said he, "these are the

ancient letters used in China before the invention of those in

usage today. That"--pointing to the image he had replaced, with

signs of respect and veneration, on the table--"is very old; very

great thing,--only very wise men and saints are allowed to touch

it." After much ado and coaxing, he at last told me, in a voice as

full of reverence as a Brahmin would in uttering the sacred word

O-A-UM, that the meaning of the inscription was _Fo_.

Some families of Indians, that live in the remote _bolsones_ (small

valleys of the Andes), sport even today a cue as the inhabitants of

the Celestial empire, and the people in Eten, a small village near

Piura, speak a language unknown to their neighbors, and are said to

easily hold converse with the coolies of the vicinage. When and how

did this intercourse exist, is rather difficult to answer. I am

even timorous to insinuate it, lest the believers in the chronology

of the Bible, who make the world a little more than 5800 years old,

should come down upon me, and, after pouring upon my humble self

their most damning anathemas, consign me, at the dictates of their

sectarian charity, to that place over the door of which Dante

read,--

Perme si vá tra la perduta gente.

* * * * *

Lasciate ogni speranza voi ch' entrate.

And yet mine is not the fault if reason tells me that the climate

of Tiahuanaco, situated near the shores of the lake of Titicaca,

13,500 feet above the sea, must not have always been what it is

now, otherwise the ground around it, and for many miles barren,

would not have been able to support the population of a large city.

Today it produces merely a few _ocas_ (a kind of small potato that

is preserved frozen), and yields scanty crops of maize and beans.

Tiahuanaco _may_, at some distant period, have enjoyed the

privilege of being a seaport. Nothing opposes this supposition. On

one hand, it is a well-known fact that, owing to the conical motion

of the earth, the waters retreat continually from the western

coasts of America, which rise at a certain known ratio every

century. On the other hand, the bank of oysters and other marine

shells and debris, found on the slopes of the Andes to near their

summits, obviously indicate that at some time or other the sea has

covered them.

When was that? I will leave to sectarians to compute, lest the

reckoning should carry us back to that time when the space between

Tiahuanaco and Easter Island was dry land, and the valleys and

plains now lying under the waters of the Pacific swarmed with

industrious, intelligent human beings, were strewn with cities and

villas, yielded luxuriant crops to the inhabitants, and the figure

should show that people lived there before the creation of the

world. I recoil with horror at the mere idea of being even

suspected of insinuating such an heretical doctrine.

But if the builders of the strange structures on Easter Island have

had, then, communications with the rearers of Tiahuanaco by _land_,

then we may easily account for the many coincidences which exist

between the laws, religious rites, sciences,--astronomical and

others,--customs, monuments, languages, and even dresses, of the

inhabitants of this Western continent, and those of Asia and

Africa. Hence the similarity of many Asiatic and American notions.

Hence, also, the generalized idea of a deluge among men, whose

traditions remount to the time when the waters that covered the

plains of America, Europe, Africa and Asia left their beds, invaded

the portions of the globe they now occupy, and destroyed their

inhabitants.

Since that time, when, of course, all communications were cut

between the few individuals that escaped the cataclysm by taking

refuge on the highlands, their intercourse has been renewed at

different and very remote epochs--a fact that I can easily prove.

But, why should we lose ourselves in the mazes of supposition,

where we run a fair chance of wandering astray, when we may recur

to the monuments of Yucatan? These are unimpeachable witnesses that

the Peninsula was inhabited by civilized people many thousand years

ago, even before the time ascribed by the Mosaic records to the

creation.

Among the ruins of Aké, a city unique in Yucatan for its strange

architecture, evidently built by giants, whose bones are now and

then disinterred, a city that was inhabited at the time of the

conquest, and where the Spaniards retreated for safety after the

defeat they suffered at the hands of the dwellers of the country

near the ruins of Chichen-Itza, is to be seen an immense building

composed of three superposed platforms. The upper one forms a

terrace supporting three rows of twelve columns. Each column is

composed of eight large square stones, piled one upon the other,

without cement, to a height of four metres, and indicate a lapse of

160 years in the life of the nation. These stones are, or were,

called _Katun_. Every twenty years, amid the rejoicings of the

people, another stone was added to those already piled up, and a

new era or epoch was recorded in the history and life of the

people. After seven of these stones had thus been placed--that is

to say, after a lapse of 140 years--they began the _Ahau-Katun_, or

King Katun, when a small stone was added every four years on one of

the corners of the uppermost, and at the end of the twenty years of

the _Ahau-Katun_, with great ceremonies and feasting, the crowning

stone was placed upon the supporting small ones. (The photographs

of this monument can be seen at the house of Mr. H. Dixon.) Now, as

I have said, we have thirty-six columns composed of eight stones,

each representing a period of twenty years, which would give us a

total of 5760 years since the first Katun was placed on the terrace

to the time when the city was abandoned, shortly after the Spanish

conquest.

On the northeast of the great pyramid at Chichen-Itza, at a short

distance from this monument, can be seen the graduated pyramid that

once upon a time supported the main temple of the city dedicated to

_Kukulcan_ (the winged serpent), the protecting divinity of the

place. On three sides the structure is surrounded by a massive wall

about five metres high and eight wide on the top. On that wall are

to be seen the columns of the Katuns. The rank vegetation has

invaded every part of the building, and thrown many of the columns

to the ground. I began to clear the trees from the pyramid, but was

unable to finish work because of the disarming of my workmen, owing

to a revolution that a certain Teodosio Canto had initiated against

the government of Yucatan. I counted as many as one hundred and

twenty columns, but got tired of pushing my way through the nearly

impenetrable thicket, where I could see many more among the shrubs.

Those I counted would give an aggregate of 19,200 years,--quite a

respectable old age, even for the life of a nation. This is plainly

corroborated by the other means of reckoning the antiquity of the

monuments,--such as the wear of the stones by meteorological

influences, or the thickness of the stratum of the rich loam, the

result of the decay of vegetable life, accumulated on the roofs and

terraces of the buildings, not to speak of their position

respecting the pole-star and the declination of the magnetic

needle.

The architecture of the Mayas is unlike that of any other people of

what is called the Old World. It resembles only itself. And,

notwithstanding that Mayapan, from the most remote times, was

visited by travellers from Asia and Africa, by the wise and learned

men who came from abroad to consult the _H-Menes_; notwithstanding,

also, the invasion of the Nahuas and the visitation of the

pilgrims, the Maya art of building remained peculiar and unchanged,

and their language was adopted by their conquerors. The Nahuas,

after destroying the city of the wise men, established themselves

in Uxmal, on account of its strategic position, in the midst of a

plain inclosed by hills easily defended. To embellish that city,

where dwelt the foes of Chichen, they copied the complex

ornamentation of the most ancient building of that metropolis,--the

palace and museum,--disdaining the chastity, the simplicity, the

beautiful and tasteful elegance of the monuments of the latter

period. These, of graceful and airy proportions, are utterly devoid

of the profusion and complexity of ornamentation and design that

overload the palaces and temples of Uxmal. When gazing on the

structures of that city, and comparing them with those of Chichen,

it seemed that I was contemplating a low-born, illiterate man, on

whom Fortune, in one of her strange freaks, has smiled, and who

imagines that by bedecking himself with gaudy habiliments and

shining jewelry he acquires knowledge and importance. All in Uxmal

proclaims the decadency of art, the relaxation of morals, the

depravity of customs, the lewdness of the inhabitants. In Chichen

they represent the life-giving power of the universe under the

emblems of the Sun and Kukulcan. In Uxmal they worshipped the

phallus, which is to be seen everywhere, in the courts, in the

ornaments of the temples, in the residences of the priests and

priestesses, in all the monuments except the house of the governor,

built by Aac, the younger brother and assassin of Chac-Mool.

The edifices of Uxmal are evidently constructed with less art and

knowledge than those of Chichen. The latter remain whole and nearly

intact, except in those places where the hand of man has been busy;

the former have suffered much from the inclemencies of the

atmosphere, and from the ignorance and vandalistic propensities of

the visitors. I have been present at the destruction of magnificent

walls where the ruins stand. Some prefer to destroy these relics of

past ages, rather than to pick up with more ease the stones that

strew the soil in every direction.

The ornaments of temples and palaces are mostly composed of

hieroglyphics, highly adorned, of the emblems of religious rites,

of statues of great men and priests, surrounded by many

embellishments. In Uxmal the columns are representations of the

phallus-worship of the Nahuas. In Chichen the base is formed by the

head of Kukulcan, the shaft by the body of the serpent, with its

feathers beautifully carved to the very chapter. On the chapters of

the columns that support the portico, at the entrance of the castle

in Chichen-Itza, may be seen the carved figures of long-bearded

men, with upraised hands, in the act of worshipping sacred trees.

They forcibly recall to the mind the same worship in Assyria, as

seen on the slabs found by Layard in the ruins of Nineveh, now in

the Assyrian gallery of the British Museum. No one can form an

exact idea of the monuments of Mayapan by reading mere

descriptions. It is necessary to either examine the buildings

themselves (and this is not quite devoid of danger, since the most

interesting are situated in territories forbidden to white men,

and occupied by the hostile Indians of Chan-Santa-Cruz, who since

1849 wage war to the knife on the inhabitants of Yucatan, and have

devastated the greatest part of that State), or to study my

magnificent collection of photographs where they are most

faithfully portrayed; that can be done with more ease, without

running the risk of losing one's life.

It is said that the deciphering of the American hieroglyphics is a

rather desperate enterprise, because we have no Rosetta stone with

a bilingual inscription. I humbly beg to differ from that opinion;

at least as regards the inscriptions on the walls of the monuments

of Mayapan. In the first instance, the same language, with but few

alterations, that was used by the builders of these edifices is

today commonly spoken by the inhabitants of Yucatan and Peten, and

we have books, grammars and dictionaries compiled by the Franciscan

friars in the first years of the conquest, translated in Spanish,

French and English. We do not, therefore, require an American

Rosetta stone to be discovered. Secondly, if it is undeniable that

Bishop Landa consigned to the flames all the books of the Mayas

that happened to fall into his hands, it is also true that by a

singular freak he preserved us, in great part at least, the Maya

alphabet in his work, "Las Cosas de Yucatan," discovered by

Brasseur de Bourbourg in the national library of Madrid. The

Americanists owe much to the researches of the abbé. I consider his

works as deserving a better reception than they have ever had from

the scientific world at large. It is true that he is no respecter

of Mosaic chronology,--and who can be in presence of the monuments

of Central America? Reason commands, and we must submit to evidence

and truth! I have carefully compared the characters of said

manuscript with those engraved upon the stones in Chichen, which I

photographed, and found them alike. Some on the frontispieces of

the palaces and temples differ, it is true, but do not our

ornamented capital letters from the small? Their deciphering may

give a little more trouble.

The Mayas, besides using their alphabet, employed at the same time

a kind of pictorial writing, something not unlike our _rebus_. They

also would record domestic and public life-customs, religious

worship and ceremonies, funeral rites, court receptions, battles,

etc., etc., just as we do in our paintings and engravings,

portraying them with superior art and perfect knowledge of drawing

and colors, which also had their accepted and acknowledged meaning.

These we have already partly deciphered, and now understand.

I have said it was my firm conviction that among the inhabitants of

Peten--nay, perchance, also, of Chan-Santa-Cruz--some one may be

found who is still possessed of the knowledge of reading the

ancient _Pic-huun_. But the Indians are anything but communicative,

and they are at all times unwilling to reveal to the white men

whatever may have been imparted to them by their fathers. To keep

these things a secret they consider a sacred duty. They even refuse

to make known the medicinal properties of certain plants, while

they are willing, provided they feel a liking for you, or are asked

by a person whom they respect or love, to apply these plants,

prepared by them, to heal the bite of a rattlesnake, tarantula, or

any of the many venomous animals that abound in their forests.

During the many years that I have been among the Indians of all

parts of America,--now with the civilized, now amidst those that

inhabit the woods far away from the commerce of people,--strange to

say, reciprocal sympathy and good feeling have always existed

between us; they have invariably ceased to consider me a stranger.

This singular attractive feeling has often caused them to open

their hearts; and to it I owe the knowledge of many curious facts

and traditions that otherwise I should never have known. This

unknown power did not fail me in Espita, a pretty little town in

the eastern part of Yucatan, where I received from a very old

Indian not only the intelligence that forty years ago men still

existed who could read the ancient Maya writing, but also a clue to

decipher the inscriptions on the buildings.

Conversing with some friends in Espita about the ancient remains to

be found in that vicinity, they offered to show me one of the most

interesting relics of olden times. A few days later they ushered

into my presence a venerable old Indian. His hairs were gray, his

eyes blue with age. The late curate of the place, Senor Dominguez,

who departed this life at the respectable age of ninety, was wont

to say that he had, since a child, and as long as he could

remember, always known Mariano Chablé, the same old man. They give

him 150 years at least; yet he enjoys perfect health; still works

at his trade (he is a potter); is in perfect possession of his

mental faculties, and of an unerring memory. Having lost his wife,

of about the same age as himself, but a short time before my

interview with him, he complained of feeling lonely, and thought

that as soon as the year of mourning was over he would take another

wife to himself. It was a Sunday morning that we met for the first

time. He had been to church, assisted at mass. There the

recollection of his departed life-companion had assailed him and

filled his old heart with sadness,--and he had called to his relief

another acquaintance--rum--to help him to dispel his sorrow. Sundry

draughts had made him quite talkative. He was in the right

condition to open his bosom to a sympathizing friend,--so I was to

him already. The libation I offered with him to the _manes_ of his

regretted mate unsealed his lips. After a few desultory questions,

with the object of testing his memory and intelligence, with great

caution I began to inquire about the points I had more at heart--to

wit, to gather all possible information and traditions upon the

ruins of Chichen-Itza I was about to visit. The old man spoke only

Maya; and my friend Cipriano Rivas, well versed in that language,

was my interpreter, not being myself sufficiently proficient in it

to hold a long conversation.

"Father," said I, "have you ever been in Chichen? Do you know

anything about the big houses that are said to exist there?"

"I have never been in Chichen, and of my own knowledge know nothing

of those big houses; but remember what the old men used to say

about them when I was young."

"And what was that, pray. Will you tell me?"

"Oh yes! I had a friend in _Saci_ (Valladolid today),--he died

forty years ago or so,--a very, very old man. His name was Manuel

Alayon. He used to tell us all about these enchanted houses. He had

a book that none but he could read, which contained many things

about them. We used to gather at his house at night to listen to

the reading of that book."

"Where is the book now, father?"

"Don't know. Alayon died. No one ever knew what became of the

sacred book. Afterwards came the insurrection of the Indians, and

the old friends also died."

"Do you remember what the book said?"

"Now, one of the things comes to my mind. It said that there was a

very old house called the _Akab-sib_, and in that house a writing,

which recited that _a day would come when the inhabitants of Saci

would converse with those of Ho [Merida] by means of a cord, that

would be stretched by people not belonging to the country_."

When I heard this, the idea occurred to me that the old fellow was

quietly having his little bit of fun at my expense. In order to be

sure of it I inquired:--

"What do you say, father? How can that be? Do you imagine how

people forty leagues apart can converse by means of a cord?"

But when my interlocutor answered that he could not either know or

imagine how that could be done, and particularly when my friends

assured me that Chablé had no idea of the electric telegraph, I

then became convinced of his good faith, and began to ponder on the

strange disclosure we had just listened to. The old man soon rose

to take his departure, and I invited him to call again, when he had

not been to church and consoled himself with his spiritual friend,

in order that I might be able to take his portrait. He repeated his

visit a few days later, as requested. I took his portrait, and

asked him again about the monuments of Chichen. But, alas! that day

his lips were sealed, or his memory failed, or his Indian secrecy

had returned. He knew nothing of them; had never been there; did

not remember what the old men said of the enchanted houses when he

was young, except that the place had been enchanted for many, many

years, and that it was not good to sleep near them, because the

_Xlab-pak-yum_, the lord of the old walls, would be angry at the

intrusion, and chastise the offender by disease and death within

the year.

Some months later I arrived at Chichen. The revelation of the old

man recurred vividly to my mind. I immediately went in quest of the

building he had mentioned--the _Akab-sib_. [This name literally

means--_Akab_, dark, mysterious; _sib_, to write. But we believe

that anciently it was called _Alcab-sib_; that is, _Alcab_, to run

in a hurry; _sib_, to write.] We had some trouble in finding it,

concealed and confounded as it was among the tall trees of the

forest, its roof supporting a dense thicket. We visited its

eighteen rooms in search of the precious inscription, and at length

discovered it on the lintel of an inner doorway in the room

situated at the south end of the edifice. The dust of ages was

thick upon it and so concealed the characters as to make them

well-nigh invisible. With care I washed the slab, then with black

crayon darkened its surface until the intaglio letters appeared in

white on a dark background. (The photographs of this inscription

can be seen at Mr. H. Dixon's.)

While thus employed Mrs. Le Plongeon stood by my side, studying the

characters as they gradually appeared more and more distinct. To

our astonishment we soon discovered the cord mentioned by Chablé.

It started from the mouth of a face (which represents the people of

Saci), situated near the right-hand upper corner of the slab, then

runs through its whole length in a slanting direction and

terminates at the ear of another head (the inhabitants of Ho). The

inclined direction of the cord or line indicates the topographical

position of the respective cities--Saci (Valladolid)--being more

elevated above the level of the sea than Ho (Merida). But imagine

now our amazement at noticing the strange fact that the mode of

communication that Chablé ignored was ... by means of electric

currents! Yes, of electricity! This fact is plainly indicated by

the four zigzag lines, representing the lightning, coming from the

four cardinal points and converging toward a centre near the upper

or starting station, and also by the solitary zigzag seen about

the middle of the cord--following its direction--indicating a

half-way station. Then the electric telegraph, that we consider

_the discovery par excellence_ of the nineteenth century, was known

of the ancient Itza sages 5000 or 10,000 years ago. Ah, _Nihil

novum sub solem!_ And in that slab we have a clue to the

deciphering of the Maya inscriptions,--an American Rosetta stone.

I will now say a few words of that language that has survived

unaltered through the vicissitudes of the nations that spoke it

thousands of years ago, and is yet the general tongue in

Yucatan--the Maya. There can be no doubt that this is one of the

most ancient languages on earth. It was used by a people that lived

at least 6000 years ago, as proved by the Katuns, to record the

history of their rulers, the dogmas of their religion, on the walls

of their palaces, on the façades of their temples.

In a lecture delivered last year before the American Geographical

Society of New York, Dr. C. H. Berendt has shown that the Maya was

spoken, with its different dialects, by the inhabitants of Mayapan

and Xibalba and the other nations of Central America south of

Anahuac. He ought to be a good authority on the subject, having

dedicated some years in Yucatan to its study.

The Maya, containing words from almost every language, ancient or

modern, is well worth the attention of philologists. And since, as

Professor Max Muller said, philology is the shining light that is

to illuminate the darkness of ethnology, besides the portraits of

the bearded men discovered by me in Chichen, those of the princes

and priests, and the beautiful statue of Chac-Mool, which serve to

determine the different types, may be a guide to discover whence

man and civilization came to America, if the American races can be

proved not to be autochthonous. Notwithstanding a few guttural

sounds, the Maya is soft, pliant, rich in diction and expression;

even every shade of thought may be expressed.

* * * * *

Whence, then, are the Maya language and the Mayas? I should like to

learn from the Americanists who are soon to congregate in

Luxembourg.

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