CHAPTER IX

THE IMPERIAL FAMILY IN THE FIRST DAYS OF THE WAR--OUR JOURNEY TO MOSCOW

(AUGUST, 1914)

At the moment when this historic scene was taking place in the Foreign

Minister’s room at St. Petersburg, the Czar, the Czarina, and their

daughters were attending evensong in the little Alexandria church. I had

met the Czar a few hours before, and been much struck by the air of

weary exhaustion he wore. The pouches which always appeared under his

eyes when he was tired seemed to be markedly larger. He was now praying

with all the fervour of his nature that God would avert the war which he

felt was imminent and all but inevitable.

His whole being seemed to go out in an expression of simple and

confident faith. At his side was the Czarina, whose care-worn face wore

that look of suffering I had so often seen at her son’s bedside. She too

was praying fervently that night, as if she wished to banish an evil

dream....

When the service was over Their Majesties and the Grand-Duchesses

returned to Alexandria Cottage. It was almost eight o’clock. Before the

Czar came down to dinner he went into his study to read the dispatches

which had been brought in his absence. It was thus, from a message from

Sazonoff, that he learned of Germany’s declaration of war. He spoke to

his Minister on the telephone for a short time and asked him to come

down to Alexandria Cottage the moment he could get away.

Meanwhile the Czarina and the Grand-Duchesses were waiting for him in

the dining-room. Her Majesty, becoming uneasy at the long delay, had

just asked Tatiana Nicolaïevna to fetch her father, when the Czar

appeared, looking very pale, and told them that war was declared, in a

voice which betrayed his agitation, notwithstanding all his efforts. On

learning the news the Czarina began to weep, and the Grand-Duchesses

likewise dissolved into tears on seeing their mother’s distress.[30]

At nine o’clock Sazonoff arrived at Alexandria. He was closeted with the

Czar for a long time, and the latter also received Sir George Buchanan,

the Ambassador of Great Britain, in the course of the evening.

I did not see the Czar again until after lunch the next day, when he

came up to kiss the Czarevitch[31] before leaving for the solemn session

at the Winter Palace, at which, in accordance with traditional usage, he

was to issue a manifesto to his people announcing the war with Germany.

He looked even worse than on the previous evening, and his eyes sparkled

as if he had the fever. He told me he had just heard that the Germans

had entered Luxemburg and attacked French customs houses before war was

declared on France.

I will reproduce here some of the notes I made in my diary about this

time.

_Monday, August 3rd._--The Czar came up to Alexis Nicolaïevitch’s

room this morning. He was a changed man. Yesterday’s ceremony

resolved itself into an impressive manifestation. When he appeared

on the balcony of the Winter Palace the enormous crowd which had

collected on the square fell on their knees and sang the Russian

National Anthem. The enthusiasm of his people has shown the Czar

that this is unquestionably a national war.

I hear that at the Winter Palace yesterday the Czar took a solemn

oath not to make peace while a single enemy soldier remains on

Russian soil. In taking such an oath before the whole world

Nicholas II. shows the true character of this war. It is a matter

of life and death, a struggle for existence.

The Czarina had a long talk with me this afternoon. She was in a

state of great indignation, as she had just heard that on orders

from the Emperor William II. the Dowager-Empress of Russia had been

prevented from continuing her journey to St. Petersburg and had had

to go from Berlin to Copenhagen.

“Fancy a monarch arresting an Empress! How could he descend to

that? He has absolutely changed since the militarist party, who

hate Russia, have gained the upper hand with him. But I am sure he

has been won over to the war against his will. He’s been dragged

into it by the Crown Prince, who openly assumed the leadership of

the pan-German militarists and seemed to disapprove of his father’s

policy. He has forced his father’s hand.

“I have never liked the Emperor William, if only because he is not

sincere. He is vain and has always played the comedian. He was

always reproaching me with doing nothing for Germany, and has

always done his best to separate Russia and France,[32] though I

never believed it was for the good of Russia. He will never forgive

me this war!

“You know that the Czar received a telegram from him the night

before last. It arrived several hours after the declaration of war,

and demanded ‘an immediate reply, which alone could avert the

terrible disaster.’ He thus tried to deceive the Czar once more,

unless the telegram was kept back at Berlin by those who were bent

on war in any case.”

_Tuesday, August 4th._--Germany has declared war on France and I

hear that Switzerland also has mobilised. I have been to the

Legation to get the orders for my ultimate departure.

_Wednesday, August 5th._--I met the Czar in the park. He told me

with immense pleasure that, as a result of the violation of the

neutrality of Belgium, England has joined the great cause. The

neutrality of Italy seems assured as well.

We have already won a great diplomatic victory. Military victory

will follow, and, thanks to the help of England, it will come

sooner than we think. The Germans have against them the whole of

Europe, with the exception of Austria. Their insolence and

despotism have at last been too much even for their allies. Look at

the Italians!

This evening I had another long talk with the Czarina, who will

not hear of my leaving for Switzerland.

“It’s ridiculous! You will never get there. All communications are

interrupted.”

I told her that an arrangement had been made between the French

Embassy and the Swiss Legation, and that we should all go home

together _via_ the Dardanelles.

“The trouble is that, if you have some chance--it’s a very small

one--of getting home, you will have _no_ chance of getting back

here before the end of the war. As Switzerland will not fight, you

will be at home doing nothing.”

At that moment Dr. Derevenko entered the room. In his hand he held

an evening paper announcing the violation of Swiss neutrality by

Germany.

“Again! They must be crazy, mad!” cried the Czarina. “They have

absolutely lost their heads!”

Realising she could not keep me now, she abandoned her resistance

and began to speak kindly of my relations, who will be without news

of me for some considerable time.

“I myself have no news of my brother,” she added. “Where is he? In

Belgium or on the French front? I shiver to think that the Emperor

William may avenge himself against me by sending him to the Russian

front. He is quite capable of such monstrous behaviour! What a

horrible war this is! What evil and suffering it means!... What

will become of Germany? What humiliation, what a downfall is in

store for her? And all for the sins of the Hohenzollerns--their

idiotic pride and insatiable ambition. Whatever has happened to

the Germany of my childhood? I have such happy and poetic memories

of my early years in Darmstadt and the good friends I had there.

But on my later visits Germany seemed to me a changed country--a

country I did not know and had never known.... I had no community

of thought or feeling with anyone except the old friends of days

gone by. Prussia has meant Germany’s ruin. The German people have

been deceived. Feelings of hatred and revenge which are quite

foreign to their nature have been instilled into them. It will be a

terrible, monstrous struggle, and humanity is about to pass through

ghastly sufferings....”

_Thursday, August 6th._--I went into the town this morning. The

violation of the neutrality of Switzerland is not confirmed and

seems most improbable. It is impossible to travel _via_ the

Dardanelles. Our departure is thus postponed, and we cannot say

when it will take place. This uncertainty makes me anxious.

_Sunday, August 9th._--The Czar has had another long talk with me

to-day. As before, he expressed himself with a confidence and

frankness which can only be explained by the exceptional

circumstances through which we are passing. Neither he nor the

Czarina ever used to discuss political or personal questions with

me. But the amazing events of the last few days, and the fact that

I have been so intimately associated with their troubles and

anxieties, have drawn me closer to them, and for the time being the

conventional barriers of etiquette and Court usage have fallen.

The Czar first spoke to me about the solemn session of the Duma on

the previous day. He told me how

[Illustration: THE CZAR AND THE CZAREVITCH EXAMINING THE FIRST

MACHINE-GUN CAPTURED FROM THE GERMANS. PETERHOF, AUGUST, 1914.]

[Illustration: THE CZAR AND THE CZAREVITCH BEFORE THE BARBED WIRE. WHITE

RUSSIA, AUTUMN, 1915.

{_Facing page 110._]

tremendously pleased he had been with its resolute and dignified

attitude and its fervent patriotism.

“The Duma was in every way worthy of the occasion. It expressed the

real will of the nation, for the whole of Russia smarts under the

insults heaped upon it by Germany. I have the greatest confidence

in the future now.... Speaking personally, I have done everything

in my power to avert this war, and I am ready to make any

concessions consistent with our dignity and national honour. You

cannot imagine how glad I am that all the uncertainty is over, for

I have never been through so terrible a time as the days preceding

the outbreak of war. I am sure that there will now be a national

uprising in Russia like that of the great war of 1812.”

_Wednesday, August 12th._--It is Alexis Nicolaïevitch’s birthday.

He is ten to-day.

_Friday, August 14th._--The Grand-Duke Nicholas Nicolaïevitch,[33]

Commander-in-Chief of the Russian Armies, has left for the front.

Before leaving Peterhof he came to Alexandria to give the Czar the

first trophy of the war, a machine-gun captured from the Germans in

one of the skirmishes which have marked the commencement of

operations on the East Prussian frontier.

_Saturday, August 15th._--I was told last night that my return to

Switzerland has been officially excused. I am told this is the

result of the action M. Sazonoff has taken at Berne at Her

Majesty’s suggestion. In any case, it is more and more doubtful

whether the Swiss will be able to get away.

The Imperial family is to go on the 17th to Moscow where the Czar

will observe the traditional custom and ask the blessing of God on

himself and his people in the tragic hours through which the

country is passing.

_Monday, August 17th._--The arrival of Their Majesties at Moscow

has been one of the most impressive and moving sights I have ever

seen in my life.

After the customary reception at the station we went in a long file

of carriages towards the Kremlin. An enormous crowd had collected

in the squares and in the streets, climbed on the roofs of the

shops, into the branches of trees. They swarmed in the shop windows

and filled the balconies and windows of the houses. While all the

bells of the churches were ringing as if they would never stop,

from those thousands of throats poured that wonderful Russian

National Anthem, so overwhelming with its religious grandeur and

pent emotion, in which the faith of a whole race is embodied:

“God save the Czar!

Mighty and powerful, let him reign for our glory,

For the confusion of our enemies, the orthodox Czar.

God save the Czar!”

On the steps of the churches, through the great doorways of which

one could see the light of the candles burning before the

reliquaries, the priests in vestments, and holding their great

crucifixes in both hands, blessed the Czar as he passed. The hymn

stopped, and then began again, rising like a prayer with a mighty

and majestic rhythm:

“God save the Czar!”

The procession arrived at the Iberian Gate.[34] The Czar got out of

his carriage and, in accordance with custom, entered the chapel to

kiss the miraculous image of the Virgin of Iberia. He came out,

walked a little way, and then stopped, high above the immense

multitude. His face was grave and composed. He stood motionless to

hear the voice of his people. He seemed to be in silent communion

with them. Once again he could hear the great heart of Russia

beating....

He then turned again towards the chapel, crossed himself, put on

his cap, and slowly walked to his carriage, which disappeared under

the old gate and went towards the Kremlin.

* * * * *

Alexis Nicolaïevitch is complaining a good deal of his leg again

to-night. Will he be able to walk to-morrow or will he have to be

carried when Their Majesties go to the Cathedral? The Czar and

Czarina are in despair. The boy was not able to be present at the

ceremony in the Winter Palace. It is always the same when he is

supposed to appear in public. You can be practically certain that

some complication will prevent it. Fate seems to pursue him.

_Tuesday, August 18th._--When Alexis Nicolaïevitch found he could

not walk this morning he was in a terrible state. Their Majesties

have decided that he shall be present at the ceremony all the same.

He will be carried by one of the Czar’s cossacks. But it is a

dreadful disappointment to the parents, who do not wish the idea

to gain ground among the people that the Heir to the Throne is an

invalid.

At eleven o’clock, when the Czar appeared at the top of the Red

Staircase, the huge crowd in the square gave him a magnificent

reception. He came down slowly, with the Czarina on his arm, and at

the head of a long procession slowly crossed the bridge connecting

the palace with the Cathedral of the Assumption and entered the

church amid a frantic outburst of cheering from the crowd. The

Metropolitan Bishops of Kiev, St. Petersburg, and Moscow and the

high dignitaries of the Orthodox clergy were present. When Mass was

over, the members of the Imperial family in turn approached the

holy relics and kissed them. Then they knelt at the tombs of the

patriarchs. Afterwards they went to the Monastery of Miracles to

pray at the tomb of St. Alexis.

Long after Their Majesties had returned to the palace the crowd

continued to collect in the square in the hope of seeing them

again. Even when we came out several hours later there were still

hundreds of peasants outside the palace.

_Thursday, August 20th._--Popular enthusiasm is waxing from day to

day. It seems as if the people of Moscow are so proud of having

their Czar with them, and so anxious to keep him as long as

possible, that they mean to hold him here by manifest proofs of

their affection. The manifestations are increasingly spontaneous,

enthusiastic, and expressive.

Alexis and I drive out in a car every morning. As a rule we go to

the Monks’ Hill, from which there is a magnificent view of the

valley of the Moskova and the city of the Czars. It was from this

spot that Napoleon gazed on Moscow before entering it on September

14th, 1812. It is certainly a marvellous view. In the foreground,

at the foot of the hill, is the Monastery of Novo-Dievitchy, with

its fortified _enceinte_ and sixteen castellated towers. A little

further back is the Holy City, with its four hundred and fifty

churches, its palaces and parks, its monasteries with their

crenellated walls, its gilded cupolas and innumerable domes of

brilliant colours and strange shapes.

As we were coming back from our usual drive this morning, so dense

was the crowd that the chauffeur was obliged to stop in one of the

rather narrow streets in the Yakimanskaïa quarter. The crowd

consisted of humble folk and peasants from the district who had

come into the city to shop or in the hope of seeing the Czar. All

at once there was a loud shout: “The Heir!... The Heir!...” The

crowd surged towards us, surrounded us, and came up so close that

our way was blocked, and we, so to speak, found ourselves prisoners

of these _moujiks_, workmen and shopkeepers who struggled and

fought, shouted, gesticulated, and behaved like lunatics in order

to get a better view of the Czarevitch. By degrees some of the

women and children grew bolder, mounted the steps of the car,

thrust their arms over the doors, and when they succeeded in

touching the boy they yelled out triumphantly: “I’ve touched

him!... I’ve touched the Heir!...”

Alexis Nicolaïevitch, frightened at these exuberant demonstrations,

was sitting far back in the car. He was very pale, startled by this

sudden popular manifestation, which was taking extravagant forms

which were quite novel to him. He recovered himself, however, when

he saw the kindly smiles of the crowd, but he remained embarrassed

at the attention bestowed upon him, not knowing what to say or do.

Personally, I was speculating, not without considerable anxiety,

how all this would end, for I knew that no police regulations are

issued for the Czarevitch’s drives as neither the time nor the

route can be fixed beforehand. I began to fear that we might meet

with some accident in the middle of this unruly crowd swarming

round us.

To my relief two huge _gorodovy_ (policemen) came up, puffing and

blowing, shouting and storming. The crowd displayed the

unquestioning and resigned obedience of the _moujik_. It began to

waver, then slowly drifted away. I then told Derevenko, who was

following in another car, to go ahead, and by degrees we succeeded

in getting clear.

_Friday, August 21st._--Their Majesties, before returning to

Tsarskoïe-Selo, decided to visit the Troïtsa Monastery, the most

celebrated sanctuary in Russia after the world-famed _Laure_ of

Kiev. The train took us as far as the little station of Serghievo,

from which we reached the monastery by car. Perched on a hill, it

would be taken for a fortified city from a distance if the

bright-coloured towers and gilded domes of its thirteen churches

did not betray its true purpose. In the course of its history this

rampart of Orthodoxy has had to resist some formidable assaults,

the most famous being the sixteen months’ siege by an army of

thirty thousand Poles at the beginning of the seventeenth century.

This monastery, like Moscow and the towns of the Upper Volga, is a

spot where the past seems ever present. It calls up visions of the

Russia of the boyarin, the Grand-Dukes of Moscow, and the first

Czars, and vividly explains the historical evolution of the Russian

people.

The Imperial family were present at a _Te Deum_ and knelt before

the relics of St. Sergius, the founder of the monastery. The

Archimandrite then handed the Czar an icon painted in a fragment of

the coffin of the saint, one of the most revered in Russia. In

olden times this image always accompanied the Czars on their

campaigns. On the Czar’s orders it is being sent to General

Headquarters and placed in the “field chapel” of the

Commander-in-Chief of the Russian Armies.

The Czar, Czarina, and their children visited the little church of

Saint Nicon and then stayed a few minutes in the ancient residence

of the patriarchs. As time was pressing, we had to abandon the idea

of visiting the hermitage of Gethsemane, which is a little distance

from the monastery. In accordance with a practice still frequently

observed in Russia, certain hermits still have themselves shut up

here in subterranean walled cells. They live in prayer and fasting

to the end of their days, completely isolated from the world, and

the slit through which their food is passed is their sole means of

communication with their fellow-men.

The Imperial family bade the Archimandrite farewell and left the

monastery, accompanied by a crowd of monks who swarmed round the

cars.

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