OLD SQUARES.
The old, smaller squares in London are very interesting from their
tranquil, retired air and antique pattern, and venerable trees. None is
more characteristic than Queen Square in Bloomsbury, with its pleasant
Queen Anne and Georgian houses running round. Most of these inclosures
were laid out originally after the Dutch manner, which is still
apparent. It must be a curious solitary sensation to live in one of
these retreats, and they are affected by students and literary men. Old
fashion, indeed, reigns in Queen Square, though now they have pulled
down some of the houses to rear hospitals. The houses have a pleasant,
tranquil air, though within they are gloomy enough. Everyone knows the
curious half solemnity, half chill, inspired by an old Queen Anne house,
such as one has experienced in Church Row, Hampstead. Here, you would
think you were miles away from town, in some sleepy suburb. At the upper
end lived Dr. Charles Burney--the father of the brilliant Fanny
Burney--in a house which had been inhabited by Alderman Barber, and to
which Swift was accustomed to resort. This house, I fancy, was one of
those recently pulled down to give place to the hospital. In this worthy
mansion one has the interest that one takes in all connected with
Johnson.
Not far away is another antique square, very old-fashioned, and with
good houses, Red Lion Square. The inclosures of both these places have
more the air of “grounds” than of the prim and trim modern square. There
is a certain wildness, and the grass grows carelessly. But it is now
completely invaded by business, and every house is subdivided into
offices. Curious little foot-alleys lead into it from various quarters.
Another interesting little square is the one yclept Golden. Many a
Londoner scarcely knows of its existence, and many more have never seen
it; yet it is within a stone’s throw of Regent Street. It is prettily
proportioned, the grass flourishing with extraordinary greenness, and in
the centre rises an effective statue. Not so many years ago private
persons of high respectability lived here, among others Cardinal
Wiseman. Now it is entirely given over to commercial offices, and has a
busy air in consequence. It would seem strange now to look for any
person of condition residing here. Some of the most forlorn and dismal
places are those curious squares found in the long roads that lead out
of London. There is one such near the Old Kent Road, built in a
pretentious style and now utterly gone to seed and decay. All the
doorways, of a curious pattern, are the same, so are all the windows. No
one walks there, no custom appears to visit it. It seems one mass of
abandonment and we hurry away depressed. Soho Square is really quaint
and interesting: it is in a sound and flourishing condition; and so full
of interest, that a small book has been written on its history. Nothing
is more pleasing than the sudden glimpse that is obtained of it from
Oxford Street, or from Dean Street, its fine old trees spreading out
umbrageously. The old houses have a quaint, solid air, notably those at
the corners. Still flourishes the old Soho Bazaar at one corner, a visit
to which in days gone by was thought a treat and a wonder for children.
The houses, with the streets surrounding, are valuable as suggesting how
old London of a hundred and fifty years back must have looked. It can
have been little altered, and though shops have been opened in many of
the lower stories, these have in many instances retained their old
parlour shape. One is struck by the handsome quality of the mansions,
the sound, solid doors, and the “detached” character of each house; that
is, each was finished by itself, and not built in “rows.” A long blank
wall pierced with windows, now a chapel, was formerly Mrs. Cornely’s
Ridotto Rooms. On the same side of Soho Square we may note a singularly
handsome house, architectural in its bold pilasters and cornices, and
the cheerful red of its brick, which suggest that famous old Inigo
Jones’s house in Great Queen Street. This imposing-looking edifice
belongs to the flourishing firm of Crosse and Blackwell, who have taken
pains to keep it in sound condition, and have fitted up one of the
handsome old chambers as a sort of baronial hall, with oaken panellings
and ornamental chimney. Wardour Street is suspiciously close at hand,
but the spirit that prompted the work was good. Some of the houses
display curious devices--faces, roses, and fleur-de-lys. Close by, in
Oxford Street, we find the wine-famed Messrs. Gilbey in occupation of a
rather stately building with a heavy porch and architectural front. It
is long forgotten now that this was erst the Pantheon, originally one of
the most beautiful buildings ever erected in London, as we can learn
from the fine series of engraved plates published in its heyday. The
interior was burnt early in the century, and it was reconstructed, but
not with the same magnificence. It has a curious history
therefore--being used as an opera house, and a place of entertainment
for assemblies. A well-known man of fashion in Sheridan’s days, Colonel
Greville, was much concerned with its fortunes.
Indeed, a history of the London squares would have extraordinary
interest and romance, and there are many odd details associated with
them. Who knows, for instance, that the eminently grave and respectable
mansions round Russell Square were actually built out of the square
itself?--the bricks being obtained from an immense pit dug in the
centre, which still lies in a hollow. The air of Portman Square used to
have a reputation for extreme salubrity and mildness, and Mrs.
Montagu--who lived in one of the corner houses, and entertained her
chimney sweeps there--used to declare that “it was the Montpelier of
England.” One of the most genuine and truly old-fashioned squares is
Berkeley Square--where the trees are ancient, their branches spreading
away close to the ground. The grass seems extra rich and green, as
though long laid down. Of a sunny day there is a most picturesque effect
from the shade cast on the grass by the branches. We seem to be straying
in some old park, and there is a tranquil, retired air. These little
effects are overlooked by the incurious sojourners in town. Belgrave
Square dates from only the year 1825, and was the work of the Messrs.
Cubitt, the houses being designed by an Italian. Hanover Square, and
George Street adjoining, is certainly one of the most notable and
characteristic portions of London, for its almost picturesque old
houses. These are in fine condition, but so familiar is the locality
that few will perhaps have taken note of them. The square and street
date from the time of George I., and, it is stated, “exhibit many
examples of the German style of architecture in private houses.” Indeed,
we have only to pause before some of the houses at the upper end of
George Street to see the truth of this. Within there are fine specimens
of staircases and panellings. “The view down George Street, from the
upper end of the square, is one of the most interesting in the whole
city; the sides of the square, the area in the middle, the breaks of
building that form the entrance of the vista, the vista itself, but
above all, the beautiful projection of the portico of St. George’s
Church, are all circumstances that unite in beauty, and render the scene
perfect.” Mr. Malton says, “This view has more the air of an Italian
scene than any other in London.” Harewood House, on the north side of
the square, was built for the late Duke of Roxburghe, but purchased by
Lord Harewood: it was designed, as can be seen at the first glance, by
the Adams. These tall houses of George Street, with their bright
cheerful tint, their long windows, have within fine spacious staircases
of infinite variety, walls handsomely panelled and richly decorated,
and, above all, fine ceilings elaborately wrought in good old stucco
work. In some of the houses the drawing-room walls are set off with
medallions in low relief of the Wedgwood pattern. This old stucco work
is now a lost and beautiful art. Mr. Aitcheson, the accomplished
architect, has recently explained its true principles, which are totally
at variance with the modern system. One of
[Illustration: BERKELEY SQUARE.]
the most attractive of the houses here is the Arts Club--a fine,
interesting specimen, with rather florid ceilings exhibiting very
delicate work, fine inlaid marble chimney-pieces, and a “flowing”
staircase. Though a small mansion, it offers that curious air of
spaciousness which arises from the sense of proportion being duly felt
and carried out.
While wandering through the immediate district of Hanover Square, where
the same school of architects seems to have inspired the work, I came on
a house of pretension which many an explorer would overlook, and which
has certainly escaped the notice of the careless wanderer. At the top of
Old Burlington Street is a large mansion, a centre block and two wings,
which now does duty as two or three distinct establishments. One wing
forms the entrance and hall, with a circular stair built into a sort of
rotunda, from which open richly-carved doors and doorways. The other
wing is pierced by a long tunnel which leads by a kind of alley to St.
George’s Church. The centre block is given over to a house agent. Here
too is abundance of mouldings and decorations, with a monumental
fireplace, over which is a sort of panelled chimney-piece. This contrast
with the practical uses for which the place serves is curious. Behind is
a large building or hall which can scarcely be made out from the street,
so built in is it. This is now known as the Burlington Hall, and used as
a Young Men’s Association. This place, with all its dependences, must
date from the middle of last century.
Portman and Cavendish Squares offer a great variety of mansions, well
built and well designed--such specimens of the interiors as I have seen
are remarkable for their noble stone staircases, florid ironwork
railings, and heavily panelled walls. The beautiful solid work with
which noblemen and gentlemen used to adorn their mansions can be well
illustrated by a casual instance which lately came under my notice. A
gentleman who was fitting up his West End house was informed by his
builders that a mansion was being pulled down in Grosvenor Street, I
think, and that some of the fittings could be secured for the usual “old
song.” Among these were a set of massive mahogany doors--_portes
battantes_--of the finest description, the mouldings being set off with
richly gilt brass.
St. James’s Square has a cheerful dignity of its own: one of the most
dramatic incidents of the century took place in one of the houses. When
the issue of the battle of Waterloo was unknown, a wealthy Mrs. Boehm
was giving a grand ball, at which the Regent was present. All the rank
and fashion of London were there, the windows lit up and open, for the
night was sultry; the crowd gathered thickly, looking up at the
festivity and the clustered figures. It was after midnight, when a roar
came from the distant streets, which increased and swelled, and was
borne into the room. The dancing stopped, and those looking on witnessed
an indescribable scene of tumult and joy. A chaise and four
approached--flags projecting from the windows: an officer, Major Percy,
leaped out, carrying his flags, rushed upstairs, and coming up straight
to the Prince, knelt on one knee and announced the great victory. Poor
Mrs. Boehm’s ball was ruined, for the Prince and everyone departed
instantly. But the scene rises before us on some of the summer nights
when festivity is going on in the square.[16]
How very few “West-enders” have penetrated so far as Fitzroy Square,
which, though close to Tottenham Court Road, is somewhat difficult to
find. There is an attraction in its stately façades, one side of which
is the work of the Brothers Adam, and has quite the flavour of Bath.
Another side was designed by an inferior artist; while the remaining
ones are in the ordinary style. Anyone who would wish to feel thoroughly
“old-fashioned” should come and live here. Not many years ago, before
the era of studio building set in, it was much affected as a haunt of
artists; but now it offers a curious “running to seed” air. It is,
however, well worth a visit, and a person of taste, by contrasting the
two sides, will see how skilfully a true architect can lay out a pile of
buildings.
[Illustration: MANSION IN CAVENDISH SQUARE.]