[Illustration: Wᵐ. STUKELEY M.D.]
[Illustration: _Frontispiece._
+Itinerarivm. Cvriosvm. Centvria. i.+
_Stukeley delin._]
ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM:
OR,
AN ACCOUNT OF THE
ANTIQUITIES,
AND REMARKABLE
CURIOSITIES
IN
NATURE +OR+ ART,
OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH
GREAT BRITAIN.
ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES.
CENTURIA I.
THE SECOND EDITION,
WITH LARGE ADDITIONS.
By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M.D. F.R. & A.S.
_O Patria, O Divûm domus, Albion, inclyta bello!
O quam te memorem, quantum juvat usque morari
Mirarique tuæ spectacula plurima terræ!_
LONDON:
Printed for Messrs. +Baker+ and +Leigh+,
in York-Street, Covent-Garden.
M.DCC.LXXVI.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PREFACE
ITER DOMESTICUM. I. 1
ITER OXONIENSE. II. 34
ITER CIMBRICUM. III. 51
ITER SABRINIUM. IV. 62
ITER ROMANUM. V. 75
ITER DUMNONIENSE. VI. 134
ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII. 176
THE PLATES
INDEX
PREFACE.
The intent of this Treatise is to oblige the curious in the Antiquities
of Britain: it is an account of places and things from inspection, not
compiled from others’ labours, or travels in one’s study. I own it is a
work crude and hasty, like the notes of a traveller that stays not long
in a place; and such it was in reality. Many matters I threw in only
as hints for further scrutiny, and memorandums for myself or others:
above all, I avoided prejudice, never carrying any author along with
me, but taking things in the natural order and manner they presented
themselves: and if my sentiments of Roman stations, and other matters,
happen not to coincide with what has been wrote before me; it was
not that I differ from them, but things did not so appear to me. The
prints, beside their use in illustrating the discourses, are ranged in
such a manner as to become an index of inquiries for those that travel,
or for a British Antiquary. I shall probably continue this method at
reasonable intervals. The whole is to invite Gentlemen and others in
the country, to make researches of this nature, and to acquaint the
world with them: they may be assured, that whatever accounts of this
sort they please to communicate to me, they shall be applied to proper
use, and all due honour paid to the names of those that favour me with
a correspondence so much to the glory and benefit of our country, which
is my sole aim therein.
It is evident how proper engravings are to preserve the memory of
things, and how much better an idea they convey to the mind than
written descriptions, which often not at all, oftener not sufficiently,
explain them: beside, they present us with the pleasure of observing
the various changes in the face of nature, of countries, and the
like, through the current of time and vicissitude of things. These
embellishments are the chief _desiderata_ of the excellent Mr. Camden’s
_Britannia_, and other writers of this sort, whose pens were not so
ready to deliver their sentiments in lines as letters: and how hard it
is for common artificers to draw from mere description, or to express
well what they understand not, is obvious from our engravings in all
sciences. I am sensible enough, that large allowances must be made for
my own performances in this kind, and some for the artificers parts
therein, who, for want of more practice in such works, cannot equal
others abroad. I know not whether it will be an excuse, or a fault, if
I should plead the expedition I used in the drawing part; but I may
urge, that a private person, and a moderate fortune, may want many
useful assistants and conveniences for that purpose. It is enough for
me to point them out; to show things that are fine in themselves, and
want little art to render them more agreeable, or that deserve to be
better done; or any way to contribute toward retrieving the noble
monuments of our ancestors; in which case only, we are behind other
the learned nations in Europe. It is not that we have a less fund of
curiosities than they, were the description of them attempted by an
abler hand, and more adequate experience.
Two or three of the plates are inserted only as heads, being not
referred to in the discourse, as Tab. VIII. the ground-plot of the
ruins of Whitehall. I myself never saw the palace, but was pleased
that I chanced to take this draught of its ruinous ichnography, but
the very week before totally destroyed. Thus much I thought owing to
the venerable memory of that name, which is ever the word at sea with
British ships, and which makes the whole world tremble. Tab. X. is an
ancient seal of the bishops of Norwich.[1] This plate the learned and
curious Mr. le Neve, Norroy king at arms, lent me out of his good will
to promote the work: the seal is remarkable for having letters upon
the edge, represented in the empty ringlet; the manner of it is like
our milled money; but how it was performed in wax, is not easy to say.
Tab. XV. was likewise lent me by Mr. Norroy abovesaid. I design always,
in these collections of mine, to insert one plate in a hundred, of
some person’s _effigies_ that has deserved well of the antiquities of
Britain: it is but a just piece of gratitude to their memory. Tab. XL.
(the Greek view at Athens) I took from an original drawing in Mr.
Talman’s collection. I have some more of that sort: though they relate
not to Britain, I do not fear the reader will be displeased with me on
that account. How much rather ought we to lament the scarcity of such!
What noble monuments of Greece are sunk into eternal oblivion, through
want of Drawing in travellers that have been there in great numbers, or
for want of encouragement to those that are able! With what regret do I
mention that most beautiful temple of Minerva in the citadel of Athens,
without dispute the finest building upon the globe, _anno_ 1694! that
year it was casually blown up with gunpowder, and not a drawing of it
preserved.
[Illustration: _Guil: Faithorne Sculp:_
_HENRICUS SPELMANNUS._
_Eques Auratus._]
[Illustration: PALACES.
_The Groundplot of the Ruins of Whitehall June 14. 1718._
_Stukeley del_ _JVᵈᵉʳ. Gucht Sculp_]
[Illustration: _Ex autographo penes Maiorem et Com̃unitat._
_Villæ Lenne Regis in Com Norff._
I. Harris Sculpᵗ.]
[Illustration: _A View at Athens._
_Ex collectionᵉ Joh̄īs̄ Talman Ar._]
[Illustration: _101. 2ᵈ._
_A View of the Temple of the Winds at Athens._
_A Lyon Cast in brass standing by yᵉ Port of Athens._]
[Illustration: _102. 2ᵈ._
_The Temple of Minerva at Syracuse._
_The Ichnography of the same Temple._
_Stukeley del._]
[Illustration: _Insignis Synodus quinq, Planetarum Anno 1722, Mense
Decembrifacta ad ho:7 .matutinas._
_Gradus Sigittary._
_Celeberrimo Hallejo Astronomo Regio tabulam reddit L. M. Wˢ.
Stukeley._]
The last plate, of the great conjunction of the five planets, I
added as an _æra_ of my book. This memorable appearance, because it
affected not the vulgar like a solar eclipse, was almost neglected
by the learned. I had a mind to do it justice by printing the type
of it from the diagram sent me by the great Dr. Halley. For my part,
I congratulate myself for living in an age fruitful of these grand
phænomena of the celestial bodies, and am pleased, that beside the
total eclipse 1715, we have in the space of two years this great
conjunction, a transit of Mercury across the sun, a comet, the last
eclipse of the sun, and in March next another great conjunction.
The numerous plates I have given the reader, of ground-plots and
prospects of Roman cities, I thought contributed much towards fixing
their site, and preserving their memory: they may be useful to curious
inhabitants, in marking the places where antiquities are found from
time to time, and in other respects. There are some few errors of the
press escaped me, notwithstanding all my care; but none, I think, of
any consequence. I have taken care to make the Index as instructing as
I could. The title of _Roman roads_ belongs to such as are anonymous,
or not commonly taken notice of: that of _Roman coins_ points to such
places as are not Roman towns, or particularly described. _Etymology_
includes only such words as are scattered casually in the work, or
matters that are not comprehended under any other head; and so of the
rest.
One general observation I have made within the short space of time
my travels were limited to, that husbandry, grazing, cultivation of
waste lands, all sorts of trades and manufactures, towns and cities,
are hugely improved; and especially the multitude of inhabitants is
increased to a high proportion: the reason of it is not difficult to be
guessed at.
What I shall next trouble the reader withall, will be my intended work,
of the history of the ancient Celts, particularly the first inhabitants
of Great Britain, which for the most part is now finished. By what I
can judge at present, it will consist of four books in folio. I. The
history of the origin and passage of the Celts from Asia into the west
of Europe, particularly into Britain; of their manners, language, &c.
II. Of the religion, deities, priests, temples, and sacred rites, of
the Celts. III. Of the great Celtic temple at Abury in Wiltshire, and
others of that sort. IV. Of the celebrated Stonehenge. There will be
above 300 copper plates of a folio size, many of which are already
engraven; and many will be of much larger dimensions. Upon account,
therefore, of the vast expence attending this work, I shall print no
more than are subscribed for; the money to be paid to me only. Thus
much I thought fit to advertise the friendly reader.
_Ormond-street, 26 Dec. 1724._
GULIELMO STUKELEY, _M. D._
_Amicus Amico_, &c.
_Lubrica Romani dum Tu monumenta pererras
Nominis, & tacito saecula lapsa pede:
Docte opifex, variis seu vim sermonibus addas,
Seu placet artifici pagina picta manu;
Quanta vetustatis summae miracula promis,
Obrutaque indigno moenia celsa situ!
Vindice Te, fossas video procedere longas.
Per loca constratum devia ducit iter.
Nunc via sublimi conscendit vertice montes,
Flumina declivis nunc per aperta ruit.
Castra quot immenso retegis constructa labore?
Et tua non sinit ars oppida posse mori.
Hic mira antiquae pendent compagine portae,
Hic tremulo fulget lumine grata pharos.
Celsior exsurgit chartis Romana potestas
Clara tuis; ultro est fassa ruina decus.
Ecce iterum ingenti pandunt curvamine sedes,
Et plausu resonant amphitheatra novo.
Roma triumphato jamdudum languida mundo
Nequicquam invictam se superesse dolet.
Nec te dira cohors morborum sola tremiscit,
Ast tempus medicas sentit inerme manus.
Quantum Roma tibi, quantum Brittannia debet.
O ingens patriae, Romulidumque decus!
Accipe Phoebea merito dignissime lauro,
Sint, quæ das aliis, saecula sera tibi._
I. S.
GULIELMO STUKELEY, _M. D._ &c.
_Nec sola est medicina Tui, sed Apolline dignam
Artem omnem recolis, mente, manuque potens.
Non modo restituis senio morbisque gravatos,
Ad vitam reddis sæcla sepulta diu.
Te Lindensis ager gestit celebrare nepotem,
Quæque dedit, patriæ lumina grate refers._
GEOR. LYNN, Interior. Templ. Soc.
In Itinerarium Curiosum amici sui charissima viri
doctissimi & Cl. Domini +Gulielmi Stukeleii+
M. D. CML. SRS. & Antiquar. Secretar.
_O Jane bifrons! Temporis inclyte
Vindex remoti, de superis videns
Post terga solus, nunc adesto et
Egregium tueare amicum
Opusque. templi janua sit tui
Serata, dum ex bis nostra quietior
Discat juventus, quid avorum
Indomitæ potuere dextræ.
Quicquid Britannus ferre recusans
Servile collo Romulidum jugum,
Terra sua contentus egit,
Artibus ingenitis beatus.
Quicquid Quirites gentibus asperis
Cultu renidens tradere providi:
Victoriam, Musasque & artes,
Arma simul rapiente dextra.
Nec vestra omittit pagina Saxonem
Sicâ timendum, relligionibus
Valde revinctum: bellicosis
Horribilemve Dacum carinis.
Nec tu recondis facta silentio
Præclara Normanni immemor inclyti;
Quorum omnium est imbutus Anglus
Sanguine, moribus, & vigore.
Quæ mira doctus condidit artifex
Excelsa prisci mœnia seculi,
Quæ strata, pontes, templa, castra,
Amphitheatra, asarota, turres!
Plaudit sibi jam magna Britannia
Antiqua splendet gloria denuo.
Chartis resurgit Stivecleji
Celsa canens iterum triumphos._
MAUR. JOHNSON, J. C.
Interioris Templi Soc. +MDCCXXIV.+
In +Stukelejanas+ Antiquitates.
_Deperditorum restitutor Temporum
Et veritatis in tenebris abditæ
Scrutator eruditus, arte quâ mirâ valet!
Retegit vetustum quicquid obscuro sinu
Abscondit Ævum. Tempus, hic aciem tuæ
Falcis retundit invidam: frustra omnia
Comples ruinis. jam tuæ pereunt minæ.
Ipsæ perire nam ruinæ nesciunt._ M. M.
Ad +Itinerarii Curiosi+ auctorem.
_Quantum Roma tibi, et Romana Britannia debet,
Ingenui Vates, Vir celebrande, canant.
Me nec Roma modos suaves, nec Celtica tellus
Argutæ docuit stringere fila lyræ.
Muneris hoc igitur vani cur hybrida tentem
Normannus, Cimber, Saxo, Britannus ego?
Musa negat, Natura negat, sed suggerit unus
Qualiacunque potest carmina noster Amor._
_Gratulor inceptum tibi nobile, gratulor illis,
Inter quos nomen glorior esse meum:
Qui patriæ priscas arteis, loca, nomina, & ipsas
Relliquias sancta relligione colunt;
Quo brevis ostendis conclusus limite campi,
Limite quam nullo clauditur ingenium.
Quòque tuos sensus permulcet amore_ +Vetustas+,
_Qui nullos casus, ardua nulla fugis.
Per salebras asp’ras, per tortas ambitiones,
Et cæcos calles, improbe, carpis_ +Iter+.
_Stagna lacúsque inter, limosáque pascua Lindi,
Romanæ explorans avia strata viæ.
Hic ubi sorte dolens, pelagi tot jugera rector
Æquoris herbosi non sua, rapta tenet.
Plura quidem tenuit, sed jussit Jupiter acres
Martigenas patrui vim cohibere sui.
Haud secus ac jussi faciunt, partémque receptam
Terreni, ut par est, æquoris esse jubent.
Cætera raptori quæ nunc manet Ennosigæo,
Si quibus est armis, est repetenda tuis.
Qui terræ pelagíque adeo declivia monstras,
Et quò præcipites Nereus urget equos;
Tanta mathematicis se tollit gloria vestra
Artibus; at numeris grandior illa meis.
Me rapit addictum veterum admiratio rerum,
Plenáque deliciis pagina quæque suis.
Tu monumenta pius, monumentis adstruis ipsis,
Perdita quæ fuerant, posse perire vetans.
Quid referam quantum tibi debet Classicus auctor,
Qui priscas urbes, castràque prisca doces?
Mercator siccis quærens adamantas in oris,
Non tam conductam versat avarus humum,
Quam tu cum nummos, urnas, & cætera signa
Antiquæ effodias indubitata notæ.
Nomina, quæ fuerant olim, Romana reducis,
Perdita restituens, obsolefacta novans.
Nec te, antiquarum tam mira peritia vocum est,
Fallunt Teutonici, barbaricique soni.
Historiam quantum decoras, si dicere vellem,
Historiam videar scribere, non literas._
_Tu das præteritis veluti præsentibus uti,
Et redeunt scriptis secula lapsa tuis.
Detrahis ancipiti Jano mirabile monstrum,
Et recta facie cernere cuncta jubes.
Sed dum commendo tua, carmine digna Maronis.
Ingenii culpâ detero, scripta, mei.
Macte tua virtute esto, patriamque quotannis
Quo pede cæpisti demereare._ Vale.
R. AINSWORTH.
To Dr. +Stukeley+, upon his _Itinerarium Curiosum_.
Hail, Baxter lives! in each descriptive page
Are seen the labours of the Roman age:
What ere the sons of Rome or Albion knew,
We here discern at one compendious view.
Thus taught we pass the Caledonian flood,
Or fertile plains that smile from Cimbric blood:
Where Vaga’s streams glide murmuring near the tomb, }
(Darksome recess) where mighty Chiefs of Rome }
Have slumber’d ages in its silent gloom: }
Where airy lamps the distant sailor guide,
Or where the labour’d arch deceives the tide:
Where Geta kept the Belgic youth in awe,
Or where Papinian gave the Roman law.
Pleas’d I behold Sabrina’s silver stream,
Or hear the murmurs of the doubtful Teme.
With you, methinks, from Cred’nil I survey
Th’ important conflict of the furious day:
See, see! Frontinus fierce in armour shine,
Where the war burns upon the vale of Eigne.
Here on the plains of Aricon we learn
Life’s various period from the peaceful urn.
Yon hoary Druids pray celestial aid,
Where sacred oaks diffuse a solemn shade;
Each branch aspiring to the blest abode
Lifts up the vows of Britain to the God.
Go on, my friend! the curious theme pursue, }
The mystic scenes of early time review, }
And tell Britannia, Baxter lives in you. }
JAMES HILL, J. C.
_Middle-Temple, London, Dec. 1. 1724._
[Illustration: _Ingratiam Itinerantium Curiosorum. +Antonini+_ Aug.
_+Itinerarium+_ per +Britanniam+. tentavit _W. Stukeley_ 1723.]
ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, &c.
ITER DOMESTICUM. I.
_I, fuge, sed poteras tutior esse domi._ +Mart.+
_To_ MAURICE JOHNSON, Jun. _Esq._
_Barrister at Law of the_ Inner-Temple.
The amity that long subsisted between our families giving birth to an
early acquaintance, a certain sameness of disposition, particularly a
love to antient learning, advanced our friendship into that confidence,
which induces me to prefix your name to this little summary of what
has occurred to me worth mentioning in our native country, HOLLAND,
in Lincolnshire; but chiefly intended to provoke you to pursue a full
history thereof, who have so large a fund of valuable papers and
collections relating thereto, and every qualification necessary for
the work. That these memoirs of mine are so short, is because scarce
more time than that of childhood I there spent, and when I but began to
have an inclination for such enquiries: that the rest which follow are
grown to such a bulk as to become the present volume, is owing to my
residence at London. Great as are the advantages of this capital, for
opportunities of study, or for the best conversation in the world, yet
I should think a confinement to it insupportable, and cry out with the
poet,
_Invideo vobis agros, formosaque prata._ Virg.
I envy you your fields and pastures fair.
which engages me to make an excursion now and then into the country:
and this is properly taking a review of pure nature; for life here
may be called only artificial, especially when fixed down to it;
like the gaudy entries upon a theatre, where a pompous character is
supported for a little while, and then makes an exit soon forgotten.
My ancestors, both paternal and maternal, having lived, from times
immemorial, in or upon the edges of our marshy level, perhaps gave me
that melancholic disposition, which renders the bustlings of an active
and showy life disagreeable. The fair allurements of the business of
a profession, which have been in my road, cannot induce me wholly to
forsake the sweet recesses of contemplation, that real life, that
tranquillity of mind, only to be met with in proper solitude; where I
might make the most of the pittance of time allotted by Fate, and if
possible doubly over enjoy its fleeting space. I own a man is born for
his country and his friends, and that he ought to serve them in his
best capacity; yet he confessedly claims a share in himself: and that,
in my opinion, is enjoying one’s self; not, as the vulgar think, in
heaping up immoderate riches, titles of honour, or in empty, irrational
pleasures, but in storing the mind with the valuable treasures of the
knowledge of divine and human things. And this may in a very proper
sense be called the study of Antiquities.
[Sidenote: _Of the study of_ +Antiquities+.]
I need not make an apology to you for that which some people of
terrestrial minds think to be a meagre and useless matter; for
truly what is this study, but searching into the fountain-head of
all learning and truth? Some antient philosophers have thought that
knowledge is only reminiscence. If we extend this notion no further
than as to what has been said and done before us, we shall not be
mistaken in asserting that the past ages bore men of as good parts as
we: enquiry into their thoughts and actions is learning; and happy for
us if we can improve upon them, and find out things they did not know,
by help of their own clue. All things upon this voluble globe are but
a succession, like the stream of a river: the higher you go, the purer
the fluid, less tainted with corruptions of prejudice or craft, with
the mud and soil of ignorance. Here are the things themselves to study
upon; not words only, wherein too much of learning has consisted. If
we examine into the antiquities of nations that had no writing among
them, here are their monuments: these we are to explore, to strike
out their latent meaning; and the more we reason upon them, the more
reason shall we find to admire the vast size of the gigantic minds
of our predecessors, the great and simple majesty of their works,
and wherein mainly lies the beauty and the excellence of matters of
antiquity. But more especially it is not without a happy omen, that
the moderns have exerted themselves in earnest, to rake up every dust
of past times, moved by the evident advantages therefrom accruing, in
the understanding their invaluable writings, which have escaped the
common shipwreck of time. It is from this method we must obtain an
accurate intelligence of those principles of learning and foundations
of all science: it is from them we advance our minds immediately to the
state of manhood, and without them the world 5000 years old would but
begin to think like a child. Nothing more illustrates this than looking
into the comments that were wrote upon them 200 years ago, voluminous
enough, but barbarous, poor, and impertinent, when compared to the
solid performances of learned men since, whose heads were enriched with
an exact search into the customs, manners and monuments of the writers.
Hence it is, that history, geography, mathematics, philosophy, the
learned professions, law, divinity, our own faculty, and the muses in
general, flourish like a fresh garden richly watered and cultivated,
weeded from rubbish of logomachy and barren mushrooms, gay with
thriving and beautiful plants of true erudition, inoculated upon the
stocks of the antients.
[Sidenote: _Of_ +Britain+.]
If ruminating upon antiquities at home be commendable, travelling at
home for that purpose can want no defence; it is still coming nearer
the lucid springs of truth. The satisfaction of viewing realities has
led infinite numbers of its admirers through the labours and dangers
of strange countries, through oceans, immoderate heats and colds, over
rugged mountains, barren sands and deserts, savage inhabitants, and a
million of perils; and the world is filled with accounts of them. We
export yearly our own treasures into foreign parts, by the genteel and
fashionable _tours_ of France and Italy, and import ship-loads of books
relating to their antiquities and history (it is well if we bring back
nothing worse) whilst our own country lies like a neglected province.
Like untoward children, we look back with contempt upon our own mother.
The antient Albion, the valiant Britain, the renowned England, big with
all the blessings of indulgent nature, fruitful in strengths of genius,
in the great, the wise, the magnanimous, the learned and the fair,
is postponed to all nations. Her immense wealth, traffic, industry;
her flowing streams, her fertile plains, her delightful elevations,
pleasant prospects, curious antiquities, flourishing cities, commodious
inns, courteous inhabitants, her temperate air, her glorious show of
liberty, every gift of providence that can make her the envy and the
desirable mistress of the whole earth, is slighted and disregarded.
You, Sir, to whom I pretend not to talk in this manner, well know that
I had a desire by this present work, however mean, to rouse up the
spirit of the Curious among us, to look about them and admire their
native furniture: to show them we have rarities of domestic growth.
What I offer them is an account of my journeyings hitherto, but little
indeed, and with expedition enough, with accuracy no more than may be
expected from a traveller; for truth in every particular, I can vouch
only for my own share, strangers must owe somewhat to informations. I
can assure you I endeavoured as much as possible not to be deceived,
nor to deceive the reader. It was ever my opinion that a more intimate
knowledge of Britain more becomes us, is more useful and as worthy a
part of education for our young nobility and gentry as the view of any
transmarine parts. And if I have learnt by seeing some places, men and
manners, or have any judgment in things, it is not impossible to make a
classic journey on this side the streights of Dover.
Thus much at least I thought fit to premise in favour of the study of
antiquities. And with particular deference to the society of British
Antiquaries in London, to whom I remember with pleasure you first
introduced me: since for some time I have had the honour of being their
secretary; to them I beg leave to consecrate the following work. To
the right honourable the Earl of Hartford the illustrious and worthy
President, the right honourable the Earl of Winchelsea, Peter le Neve,
esq; Roger Gale, esq; the illustrious and worthy Vice-presidents, and
to the learned Members thereof. Then, lest I should fall under my own
censure passed upon others, that know least of things nearest them,
I shall deliver my thoughts about the history of +Holland+ before
mentioned, which may serve as a short comment upon the map of this
country which I published last year, with a purpose of assisting the
gentlemen that are commissioners of sewers there, though it is of such
a bulk as cannot conveniently be inserted into this volume.
If we cast our eyes upon the geography of England, we must observe that
much of the eastern shore is flat, low ground, whilst the western is
steep and rocky. This holds generally true throughout the globe as to
its great parts, countries or islands, and likewise particularly as to
its little ones, mountains and plains. I mean, that mountains are steep
and abrupt to the west,[2] especially the north-west, and have a gentle
declivity eastward or to the south-east, and that plains ever descend
eastward. I wonder very much that this remark has never been made. I
took notice of it in our own country, almost before I had ever been
out of it, in the universal declivity of that level eastward, in those
parts where it did not by that means regard the ocean; particularly in
South Holland, or the wapentake of Elho: the natural descent of water
therein is not to the sea, as the rivers run, but directly eastward,
and that very considerable. Beside, the current of every river is lower
as more eastward: thus the Welland is higher in level than the Nen, the
Nen than the Ouse; and probably at first both emptied themselves by the
Ouse or Lyn river as most eastward. I observed in June 1732, that the
Peterborough river Nen would willingly discharge itself into Whitlesea
mere, and so to the Ouse at Lyn, if it were not hindered by the sluice
at Horsey bridge by the river Nen. I see no difficulty to attribute the
reason of it to the rotation of the globe. Those that have gone about
to demonstrate to us that famous problem of the earth’s motion, have
found out many mathematical and abstracted proofs for that purpose, but
neglected this which is most sensible and before our eyes every minute.
It is a property of matter, that when whirled round upon an _axis_, it
endeavours to fly from the _axis_, as we see in the motion of a wheel,
the dirt and loose parts are thrown the contrary way in a tangent
line. This is owing to the natural inactivity of matter, which is not
easily susceptible of motion. Now at the time that the body of the
earth was in a mixt state between solid and fluid, before its present
form of land and sea was perfectly determined, the almighty Artist
gave it its great diurnal motion. By this means the elevated parts or
mountainous tracts, as they consolidated whilst yet soft and yielding,
flew somewhat westward, and spread forth a long declivity to the east:
the same is to be said of the plains, their natural descent tending
that way, and, as I doubt not, of the superfice of the earth below the
ocean. This critical minute is sublimely described by the admirable
poet and observer of nature,
_Namque canebat, uti magnum per inane coacta
Semina terrarumque, animæque, marisque fuissent,
Et liquidi simul ignis. Ut his exordia primis
Omnia, & ipse tener mundi concreverit orbis.
Tum durare solum & discludere nerea ponto
Cœperit, & rerum paulatim sumere formas._ +Virg.+ Ecl. +VI.+
which may thus be englished.
He sang, how from the mighty void, in one
Large space, collected were the fluid seeds
Of earth, air, sea and fire; from these came all.
The callow world became one massive globe;
The ocean by the hard’ning ground disjoin’d,
New forms surpris’d the beauteous face of things.
The truth of this observation I have seen universally confirmed in all
my travels, and innumerable instances of it will occur to the reader
throughout these discourses. I design another time professedly to treat
of it in a philosophical way. But consequent to this doctrine it is
that we have so large a quantity of this marshland in the middle of
the eastern shore of England, seeming as if made by the washings and
_eluvies_ of the many rivers that fall that way, such as the Welland,
the Witham, the Nen, the Ouse great and little, together with many
other streams of inferior note. These all empty themselves into the
great bay formed between the Lincolnshire wolds and cliffs of Norfolk,
called by Ptolemy _Mentaris æstuarium_, as rightly corrected by Mr.
Baxter, seeing it is composed of the mouths of so many rivers; _Ment_,
or _Mant_, signifying _ostium_ in the British language. Beside the
great quantity of high and inland country that discharges its waters
this way, even as far as Fritwell in Oxfordshire; all the level
country lies before it, extending itself from within some few miles of
Cambridge south, to Keal hills near Bolingbroke in Lincolnshire north,
about sixty miles long, known by the names of the Isle of Ely, Holland
and Marshland. This country, since the flood, I believe was much in
the same state as at present, and for its bulk the richest spot of
ground in the kingdom; once well inhabited by gentry, especially the
religious. I apprehend the more inland part of it, the Isle of Ely,
Deeping Fen, &c. was not in distant ages in so bad a condition as now,
because the natural drainage of it was better, before the sea had by
degrees added so much solid ground upon the coasts.
[Sidenote: +Holland+, _its name_.]
In this country I have observed abundance of old Welsh words left among
us; and I am persuaded that the name of Holland is derived from that
language, though now terminated by a later word, as is frequent enough.
It signifies no more than salt or marsh land, such as is gained from
the sea; and to this day we call the marshes adjoining to, and sometime
overflowed by the sea, _salt marshes_. Likewise upon the sea shore
they formerly made salt in great abundance. The hills all along upon
the sea bank, the remains of such works, are still called salt hills:
such are at Fleet, Holbech, Gosberton, Wainflet,[3] &c. Many names of
rivers and roads, thence derived, remain still, such as Salters Lode,
Salteney Gate, &c. _Hallt_ in the British is _salsus_, salt, as ἅλς
in the Greek is _mare_, the sea; and most evidently borrowed from the
British, because of its most notorious quality. The adjoining part of
this country in Norfolk, is called marsh land, in the very same sense:
so is Zeland and Holland at the mouth of the Rhine, where our Cimbric
ancestors once lived. In the Cimbric Chersoness, now Denmark, is
Halland, a division of the country by the Saxons called _Halgo land_.
Vid. Spelman’s Glassary, voce _Sciringes heal_. Holsatia, Holstein, &c.
and our Holderness in Yorkshire, must thus be understood. Hence the
isle of Ely too is denominated, the very word _heli_ being _salsugo_
in the British. This, in the most antient British times, was as much
marsh land as our wapentake of Elho is now, which acknowledges the same
original; _hoe_ signifying a parcel of high ground.
[Sidenote: _First Inhabitants the_ +Britons+.]
We may be assured that this whole country was well inhabited by the
antient Britons, and that as far as the sea coasts, especially the
islets and higher parts more free from ordinary inundations of the
rivers, or though not imbanked above the reach of the spring tides;
for the nature of this place perfectly answered their gusto, both as
affording abundant pasturage for their cattle, wherein their chief
sustenance and employment consisted, and in being so very secure from
incursion and depredations of war and troublesome neighbours, by the
difficult fens upon the edge of the high country. Here I have not been
able to meet with any remains of them, except it be the great quantity
of _tumuli_, or barrows, in all these parts; scarce a parish without
one or more of them. They are generally of a very considerable bulk,
much too large for Roman; nor has any thing Roman been discovered in
cutting them through; though, a few years ago, two or three were dug
quite away near Boston, and another at Frampton, to make brick of, or
to mend the highways. I guess these were the high places of worship
among our Cimbrian predecessors, purposely cast up, because there
are no natural hills in these parts; and we know antiquity affected
places of elevation for religious rites. No doubt, some are places of
sepulture, especially such as are very frequent upon the edges of the
high countries all around, looking down upon the fens. Hither seem to
have been carried the remains of great men, whose habitations were in
the marshy grounds, who chose to be buried upon higher ground than
where they lived; as is the case all over England; for the _tumuli_ are
commonly placed upon the brink of hills hanging over a valley, where
doubtless their dwellings were.
[Sidenote: +Romans.+]
[Sidenote: _The_ +Hermen Street.+]
[Sidenote: TAB. LVI.]
But when the Romans had made considerable progress in reducing this
island into the regular form of a province, and began the mighty work
of laying down the great military ways; then I suppose it was, that
they cast their eyes upon this fertile and wide-extended plain, and
projected the draining it. In the reign of Nero, in all probability,
they made the _Hermen Street_,[4] as now called by a Saxon word
equivalent to the Latin _via militaris_. That this was the first,
seems intimated by the name, in that it has retained κατ’ εξοχην, what
is but a common appellative of such roads. This noble work, taking
in the whole of it, was intended to be a meridian line running from
the southern ocean, through London, to the utmost bounds of Scotland.
This may be inferred from the main of it, which runs directly north
and south. And another argument of its early date, drawn from three
remarkable particularities, I have observed in travelling upon it,
and which show it was begun before that notable people had a thorough
knowledge of the geography of the island. One is, its deviation
westward as it advances towards these fens from London: another is,
the new branch, drawn a little beyond Lincoln westward into Yorkshire,
out of the principal stem going to the Humber: a third is, that it is
double in Lincolnshire. Of these I shall speak again when we come to
the following _Iter Romanum_. Now we will only consider such part of
it as has relation to the country we are upon; and that is the road
going from Caster by Peterburgh to Sleford in this county, which is
undoubtedly Roman, and which first occasioned the draining this fenny
tract, and surely more antient than that which goes above Stanford, and
along the heathy part of the county to Lincoln. My reasoning depends
upon the manner of the road itself, and upon that other great work
which accompanies it, called the _Cardike_, equally to be ascribed to
the same authors. This road is nearer the first intention of a meridian
line than the other: but, when they found it carried them through a low
country, where it perpetually needed reparation, and that they must
necessarily decline westward to reach Lincoln, they quitted it, and
struck out a new one, more westerly, that should run altogether upon
better ground. This, if we have leave to guess, was done after the time
of Lollius Urbicus, lieutenant under Antoninus Pius, who with great
industry and courage had extended and secured the whole province as far
as Edinburgh. Then it was they had time and opportunity to complete the
work in the best manner, being perfect masters of the country, and of
its geography: and this road was for the ready march of their armies
and provisions to succour those northern frontiers. But it seems as
if they had long before that time brought the Hermen Street as far as
Lincolnshire,[5] especially that eastern branch, or original stem, of
which we are treating, and that as early as the reign of Nero, and
at the same time made the Cardike. I shall give you my further reasons
for this conjecture, and nothing more than conjecture can be expected
in such matters.
[Illustration:42·2ᵈ.
+Bricantiæ Pars+]
[Sidenote: _Old_ +Hermen Street+.]
[Sidenote: _The_ +Cardike+.]
The road which we suppose the original stem of the Hermen Street goes
in a direct line, and full north and south from Durobrivæ, or Caster,
to Sleford; and there, for aught I know, it terminates. It is manifest,
that if it had been carried further in that direction, it would have
passed below Lincoln heath, and arrive at the river where it is not
fordable. It parts from the present and real Hermen Street at Upton,
a mile north of Caster; but this is continued in a strait line, which
demonstrates that it is the original one: the other goes from it with
an angular branching. This traverses the river Welland at Westdeeping,
and is carried in a high bank across the watery meadows of Lolham
bridges.[6] These are numerous and large arches made upon the road, to
let the waters pass through, taken notice of by the great Camden as
of antiquity; and no doubt originally Roman: then it crosses the Glen
at Catebridge, (whereabouts it is now called King’sgate, _via regia_)
to Bourn, (where Roman coins are often found, many in possession of
Jos. Banks, jun. esq.) so to Fokingham and Sleaford. It is now called
Longdike. All along parallel to this road runs a famous old drain,
called _Cardike_.[7] Mr. Morton has been very curious in tracing it out
through his county, Northamptonshire. I am sorry I have not yet had
opportunity to pursue his laudable example, in finishing the course of
it through Lincolnshire: but as far as I have observed it, it is marked
in the map. This is a vast artificial canal drawn north and south upon
the edge of the fens, from Peterburgh river to Lincoln river, about
fifty mile long, and by the Romans without all peradventure. It is
taken notice of by serjeant Callis, our countryman, in his readings
on the sewers. That wise people, with a greatness of thought peculiar
to themselves, observed the great use of such a channel, that by
water carriage should open an inland traffic between their two great
colonies of Durobrivæ and Lindum, or Lincoln, without going round the
hazardous voyage of the Estuary: just such was the policy of Corbulo
in Tacitus, Annal. xi. _Ne tamen miles otium indueret inter Mosam
Rhenumque trium & viginti millium spatio fossam produxit, qua incerta
oceani evitarentur._ And lest the soldiery should be idle, he drew a
dike for the space of three and twenty miles between the Maese and the
Rhine, whereby the dangers of the ocean are avoided; which is exactly
a parallel case with ours. Besides, it is plain that by intercepting
all the little streams coming down from the high country, and naturally
overflowing our levels, it would much facilitate the draining thereof,
which at this time they must have had in view. This canal enters
Lincolnshire at Eastdeeping, proceeding upon an exact level, which it
takes industriously between the high and low grounds all the way, by
Langtoft and Baston: passing the river Glen at Highbridge, it runs in
an uninterrupted course as far as Kyme: beyond that I have not yet
followed it; but I suppose it meets Lincoln river near Washenburgh, and
where probably they had a fort to secure the navigation, as upon other
proper intermediate places, such as Walcot, Garick, Billingborough,
Waldram-hall, Narborough, Eye antiently Ege, _agger_; and I imagine St.
Peter’s de Burgo hence owes its original: and a place called Low there,
a camp ditched about, just where the Cardike begins on one side the
river: another such fortification at Horsey bridge on the other side
the river: all these names point out some antient works. It is all the
way threescore foot broad, having a large flat bank, on both sides,
for the horses that drew their boats. Roman coins are frequently found
through its whole length, as you well know, who are possessed of many
of them of different emperors. Now it seems to me highly probable that
Catus Decianus, the procurator in Nero’s time, was the projector both
of this road and this canal, two notable examples in different kinds of
Roman industry and judgment; and the memorial of the author of so great
a benefit to the country is handed down to us in several particulars;
as that of Catesbridge before mentioned upon the road, and of Catwater,
a stream derived from this artificial channel, at the very place where
it begins, to the Nen at Dovesdale bar: likewise at Dovesdale bar
comes in another stream from the north, from a place by Shephey bank,
called Catscove corner; and this was first hinted to me by our deceased
friend, the learned and reverend Mr. John Britain, late schoolmaster
of Holbech: to which we may add Catley, a town near Walcot upon the
Cardike beyond Kyme; and Catthorp, a village near Stanfield, upon the
road. We may likewise upon the same grounds conjecture that Lollius
Urbicus repaired this work; whence it seems that his name, though
corrupted, is preserved in Lolham bridges; for there is no town of that
kind near it. Vid. Gale’s _Itinerar._ pag. 28. Lowlsworth upon the
Hermen Street without Bishops-Gate, in Spittle-Fields. Certainly this
is a good hint for our imitation, had we a like public spirit. Now this
road thus accompanying the canal, was of great service to the traders,
who might have an eye upon their vessels all the while. And even after
the projection of the other branch which goes to Lincoln upon the
higher ground, the navigation here was undoubtedly continued in full
perfection, till the Romans left the island; for such is its advantage
of situation, that it could never want water, nor ever overflow: that
stream of Catwater seems to be cut on purpose, at least scoured up, to
preserve these uses in drawing off the floods of Peterburgh river into
the Nen, if its proper channel was not sufficient. The meaning of the
word _Cardike_ is no more than Fendike: we use the word still in this
country, to signify watery, boggy places: it is of British original.
I doubt not but that the Romans likewise made that other cut, between
Lincoln river and the Trent, called the Foss: the name seems to
indicate it, as well as the thing itself; for it is but a consequent of
the Cardike, and formed on the same idea: so that I suppose it was not
originally cut, but scoured by Henry I. as Hoveden mentions: then the
navigation was continued by land from Peterborough quite to York, and
this was very useful to the Romans in their northern wars. The other
way they might come from Huntingdon.
The 20th of October, 1726, I traced the Cardike round the out-skirts of
Sir William Ellys’s park of Nockton: it runs near the site of the old
priory, whose ruins are just visible: it bounds the park entirely on
the fen side, and is very perfect thereabouts; the high-country streams
from Dunston, and others, running along it. We saw where it crossed a
marshy valley, and reached the opposite high ground in its course to
Washenburgh. A well of the old priory is well preserved, remarkably
good water.
That part of the Cardike between Lincoln and the Trent was begun to be
cleansed by bishop Atwater, but he died before completed. It is highly
probable that the Romans called our Cardike _Fossa_, which happens to
be preserved only on that part between Lincoln and the Trent.
The Fossdike in being in Edward the Confessor’s time. Vide Camden,
_Nottingham_.
Cardike runs close by Thurlby town end.
The marquis of Lindsey gave me an exceeding fair Maximinus; the
reverse, +GENIO POP. ROM.+ found at Grimsthorp.
Mrs. Tichmus of Stamford told me she once had many Roman coins, from a
great parcel found at or near Sleford.
The 18th of October, 1728, I travelled on the Roman road, the eastern
branch of the Hermen Street from Sleford, for about three miles
southward. I observed that it went not to Sleford town directly, but to
the old house of Sir Robert Carr’s, formerly Lord Hussey’s (attainted
for treason in time of Henry VIII.) called Old Place. We saw by the
way, on the east side the road, a mile or more south of Sleford, an old
work, square, ditched about, large, with an entry from the road; the
earth of the vallum thrown on both sides.
[Sidenote: +Sleaford+ Ro. _town_.]
[Sidenote: +Stanfield+ Ro. _town_.]
But it was not enough for the Romans thus to provide for commerce
and travelling, without they set proper stations or mansions for the
reception of negociators and the like. Accordingly we find the distance
between Caster and Lincoln, about 40 miles, has two towns upon it at
proper intervals for lodging; these are Sleaford and Stanfield: the
original names of them are in irrecoverable silence, but the eternity
of the Romans is inherent. At Sleaford they have found many Roman
coins, especially of the Constantine family and their wives, about the
castle and the spring-head a little above the town. It is probable that
Alexander, the bishop of Lincoln, built his work upon the site of a
Roman citadel. Beside, at Sleaford comes in the other Roman road from
the fen country by Brig-end causeway, and at the intersection of these
two roads the old town stood. At Stanfield, which is a little village
near Burn, they find daily the foundations of buildings, innumerable
coins and other antiquities, of which yourself and our friend Mr. John
Hardy have a good quantity. These are chiefly dug up in a close called
Blackfield, from the extraordinary richness of the ground. It stands
half a mile off the road upon elevated ground, whence you may see
Spalding, Boston, and the whole level: it is now only of some note for
a good chalybeat spring.
I shall rehearse a few things I have noted hereabouts, and then we
will descend into Holland. The following antient part of the genealogy
of the inheritors of Brun, or Bourn, contains several antiquities
hereabouts. The spring-head at Bourn, near the castle belonging to
them, is remarkable for its largeness and quickness.