MISCELLANEOUS SYSTEMS.
_Horizontal Training._--There are very few types of horizontal shoot
training now in use. The best is probably that shown in fig. 35. This
particular vine is a Delaware, to which this training is well adapted.
It will be noticed that this picture represents the end of a trellis,
and the diagonal stick seen near the ground is a brace for the end post.
Two wires run from post to post, one about two and one-half feet above
the ground and the other five and one-half feet high. The posts are set
at the ordinary distance of 16 or 18 feet apart. The vines are set six
or eight feet apart, if Delawares. A strong stake is driven in the
ground behind each vine, standing as high as the top of the trellis when
set. The permanent trunk or head of the vine stands about a foot high.
The vine is renewed back to the top of this trunk every year. One cane
is left at each pruning, which, when tied up to the stake, is as high as
the trellis. From this perpendicular cane, the bearing shoots are
carried out horizontally. About six of these shoots are allowed to grow
upon either side of the cane. As the shoots grow, they are tied to
perpendicular slats which are fastened on the wires. These slats do not
touch the ground. Two slats are provided upon either side, making four
to a vine. They stand a foot or fifteen inches apart. The clusters hang
free from the horizontal shoots. If the shoots grow too long, they are
pinched in when they have passed the second slat. While these shoots are
covering the trellis, another shoot is taken out from the head or trunk
of the vine and, without being allowed to fruit, is tied up along the
central stake. This shoot is to form the top next year, for all the
present vine is to be entirely cut away at the winter's pruning. So the
vine starts every spring with but a single cane.
[Illustration: 35. HORIZONTAL TRAINING.]
Excellent results are obtained from the slender growing varieties by
this method of training, but it is too expensive in trellis and in labor
of tying to make it generally practicable. Delaware, however, thrives
remarkably well when trained in this fashion.
_Post Training._--There are various methods of training to posts, all of
which possess two advantages--the saving of the expense of trellis and
allowing of cultivation both ways. But they also have grave
disadvantages, especially in the thickness of the head of foliage which
harbors rot and mildew and prevents successful spraying, and hinders the
fruit from coloring and ripening well. These faults are so serious that
post training is now little used for the American grapes. The saving in
cost of trellis is not great, for more posts are required to the acre
than in the trellis systems, and they do not endure long when standing
alone with the whole weight of the vines thrown upon them.
[Illustration: 36. LOW POST TRAINING.]
There are various methods of pruning for the stake training, but nearly
all of them agree in pruning to side spurs upon a permanent upright arm
which stands the full height of the vine. There may be one or two sets
of these spurs. We might suppose the Kniffin vine, shown in fig. 22, to
be tied to a post instead of stretched on a trellis; in that event,
the four canes would hang at will, or they might be wrapped about the
post, the shoots hanging out unsupported in all directions. The post
systems are essentially Kniffin in principle, for the shoots hang free.
In low styles of post training, the permanent head of the vine may be
only three or four feet high. This head will have a ring of spurs on it,
and at the annual pruning three to five canes with from six to ten buds
each are left. Fig. 36 is a view in such a post vineyard.
The main trunk is usually tied permanently to the post. The canes left
after pruning are variously disposed. Sometimes they are bent upwards
and tied to the post above the head of the vine, but they are oftenest
either wound loosely about the post, or are allowed to hang loose. Two
trunks are frequently used to each post, both coming from the ground
from a common root. These are wound about the post in opposite
directions, one outside the other, and if the outside one is secured at
the top by a small nail driven through it, or by a cord, no other tying
will be necessary. Sometimes two or three posts are set at distances of
one foot or more apart, and the vines are wrapped about them, but this
only augments the size and depth of the mass of foliage. Now and then
one sees a careful post training, in which but little wood is left and
vigorous breaking out of shoots practiced, which gives excellent
results; but on the whole, it cannot be recommended. The European post
and stake systems or modifications of them, are yet occasionally
recommended for American vines, but under general conditions, especially
in commercial grape growing, they rarely succeed long. One of the latest
recommendations of any of these types is that of the single pole system
of the Upper Rhine Valley, by A. F. Hofer, of Iowa, in a little treatise
published in 1878.
_Arbors._--Arbors and bowers are usually formed with little reference to
pruning and training. The first object is to secure shade and seclusion,
and these are conditions which may seriously interfere with the
production of fine grapes. As a rule, too much wood must be allowed to
grow, and the soil about arbors is rarely ever cultivated. Still, fair
results in fruit can be obtained if the operator makes a diligent use of
the pruning shears. It is usually best to carry one main or permanent
trunk up to the top or center of the arbor. Along this trunk at
intervals of two feet or less, spurs may be left to which the wood is
renewed each year. If the vines stand six feet apart about the
arbor--which is a satisfactory distance--one cane three feet long may be
left on each spur when the pruning is done. The shoots which spring from
these canes will soon cover up the intermediate spaces. At the close of
the season, this entire cane with its laterals is cut away at the spur,
and another three-foot cane--which grew during the season--is left in
its place. This pruning is essentially that of the Kniffin vine in fig.
22. Imagine this vine, with as many joints or tiers as necessary, laid
upon the arbor. The canes are tied out horizontally to the slats instead
of being tied on wires. This same system--running up a long trunk and
cutting in to side spurs--will apply equally well to tall walls and
fences which it is desired to cover. Undoubtedly a better plan, so far
as yield and quality of fruit is concerned, is to renew back nearly to
the root, bringing up a strong new cane, or perhaps two or three every
year, and cutting the old ones off; but as the vines are desired for
shade one does not care to wait until midsummer for the vines to reach
and cover the top of the arbor.
_Remodeling Old Vines._--Old and neglected tops can rarely be remodeled
to advantage. If the vine is still vigorous, it will probably pay to
grow an entirely new top by taking out a cane from the root. If the old
top is cut back severely for a year or two, this new cane will make a
vigorous growth, and it can be treated essentially like a new or young
vine. If it is very strong and ripens up well, it can be left long
enough the first fall to make the permanent trunk; but if it is rather
weak and soft, it should be cut back in the fall or winter to two or
three buds, from one of which the permanent trunk is to be grown the
second season. Thereafter, the instructions which are given in the
preceding pages for the various systems, will apply to the new vine.
The old trunk should be cut away as soon as the new one is permanently
tied to the wires, that is, at the close of either the first or second
season of the new trunk. Care must be exercised to rub off all sprouts
which spring from the old root or stump. If this stump can be cut back
into the ground and covered with earth, better results may be expected.
Old vines treated in this manner often make good plants, but if the
vines are weak and the soil is poor, the trouble will scarcely pay for
itself.
These old vines can be remodeled easily by means of grafting. Cut off
the trunk five or six inches below the surface of the ground, leaving an
inch or two of straight wood above the roots. Into this stub insert two
cions exactly as for cleft-grafting the apple. Cions of two or three
buds, of firm wood the size of a lead-pencil, should be inserted. The
top bud should stand above the ground. The cleft will need no tying nor
wax, although it is well to place a bit of waxed cloth or other material
over the wound to keep the soil out of it. Fill the earth tightly about
it. Fig. 37 shows the first year's growth from two cions of Niagara set
in a Red Wyoming root. Great care must be taken in any pruning which is
done this first year, or the cions may be loosened. If the young shoots
are tied to a stake there will be less danger from wind and careless
workmen. In the vine shown in the illustration, no pruning nor rubbing
out was done, but the vine would have been in better shape for
training if only one or two shoots had been allowed to grow. Such a vine
as this can be carried onto the trellis next year; or it may be cut back
to three or four buds, one of which is allowed to make the permanent
trunk next year, like a two-year set vine.
[Illustration: 37. A YEARLING GRAFT.]
If it is desired, however, to keep the old top, it will be best to cut
back the annual growth heavily at the winter pruning. The amount of wood
which shall be left must be determined by the vigor of the plant and the
variety, but three or four canes of six to ten buds each may be left at
suitable places. During the next season a strong shoot from the base of
each cane may be allowed to grow, which shall form the wood of the
following season, while all the present cane is cut away at the end of
the year. So the bearing wood is renewed each year, as in the regular
systems of training. Much skill and experience are often required to
properly rejuvenate an old vine; and in very many cases the vine is not
worth the trouble.
[Illustration: (Drawing of grapes}]
INDEX.
Page
Adlum, quoted, 10
Arbor Kniffin, 72
Arbors, 88
Arm, defined, 13
Barns, W. D., quoted, 63
Bass bark, 33
Bleeding, 22
Breaking-out, 23
Brocton, Training at, 37
Bull cane, 50, 66
Cane, defined, 13
Chautauqua County, Training in, 37
Contraction of wires, 30
Cornell, William T., 56
Cornhusks, for tying, 33
Crittenden training, 74
Cross-wire training, 74
Crotch Kniffin, 66
Double Kniffin, 66
Drooping systems, 56
Eight-cane Kniffin, 70
Fan training, 54
Forestville, Training at, 37
Four-cane Kniffin, 58
Fuller, quoted, 10, 34
Girdling, 69
Grafting, 90
Haviland, Sands, 72
Heading-in, 23
High Renewal training, 39
Hofer, A. F., 88
Horizontal Arm training, 34
Horizontal training, 83
Husks, for tying, 33
Improved Kniffin, 66
Kniffin systems, 58
Kniffin training, Comparison of, 26
Kniffin, William, 56
Low Kniffin, 69
Marlboro', Training at, 72, 74
Modified Kniffin, 63
Munson training, 78
Munson, T. V., 78
Objects of pruning, 24
Old vines, Remodeling of, 89
One-wire Kniffin, 69
Overhead Kniffin, 72
Planting, 20
Posts, 28
Post training, 85
Pruning, 11
Pruning, Objects of, 24
" of young vines, 20
" Summer, 23
" Time for, 22
Raffia, 32
Raphia Ruffia, 32
Reasons for pruning, 24
Remodeling old vines, 89
Renewal, defined, 18
Renewal Kniffin, 77
Rubbing off, 14, 23
Rye straw for tying, 33
Sagging of wires, 30
Setting, 20
Shoot, defined, 13
Six-cane Kniffin, 70
Spur, defined, 17
Spur training, 34
Staples, 29
Stopping, 23
Stripping, 22
Summer pruning, 23
Superfluous shoots, 23
Systems compared, 25
T-head, 41
Thomas' Fruit Culturist, quoted, 10
Tightening wires, 31
Trellis, Making, 27
True Kniffin, 58
Twine for tying, 32
Two-cane Kniffin, 66
Tying, 31
Umbrella training, 66
Upright training, 34
Walls, Training on, 89
Weeping, 22
Willows, for tying, 32
Wire, for trellis, 28
" for tying, 33
" weights and sizes, 29
Wool-twine, 32
Y-trunk Kniffin, 66
Yeoman's patent trellis, 30
Yields of grapes, 14, 63, 69, 70
Young vines, Pruning of, 20
[Illustration: (Drawing of grapes}]
[Illustration]
=THIS ILLUSTRATION= was made from a photograph of fair
samples of the different grades of our grape vines, reduced to one-tenth
their natural size.
We take great pride and comfort in our ability to furnish _strong_,
_fibrous-rooted_ stock, so well appreciated by intelligent and
experienced fruit growers.
WHOLESALE TRADE ESPECIALLY SOLICITED. CATALOGUE FREE.
LEWIS ROESCH, FREDONIA, N. Y.,
Grape Vine Specialist And General Nurseryman.
When writing name this book.
Hardy
Native
Grapes.
We desire to call the attention of planters to our large and complete
stock of Grape Vines.
We propagate and offer for sale upwards of sixty varieties, embracing
the popular old sorts as well as the new ones which seem to have merit.
Our catalogue contains accurate descriptions, and classifies the
different varieties according to color.
Besides the above we offer an immense collection of all kinds of Fruit
and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Hardy Plants, etc. Our General
Catalogue (160 pages), embellished with numerous engravings of the most
popular Trees, Shrubs, etc., and enclosed in an illuminated cover, will
be mailed free to all who have not received it.
Our Supplementary Catalogue (28 pages) of Rare and Choice Trees, Shrubs,
etc., including several valuable novelties and many specialties of
superior merit, will also be mailed free.
ELLWANGER & BARRY,
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53rd Year. ROCHESTER, N. Y.
Pleasant Valley Nurseries
PEAR TREES.--Lincoln, Coreless, Bessemianka, Japan Golden Russet,
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[Illustration: FRUIT TREES! BERRY PLANTS!]
STRAWBERRIES, Van Deman, E. P. Roe, and other new varieties; all the old
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J. S. COLLINS & SON, Moorestown, N. J.
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POPULAR ERRORS ABOUT PLANTS.--By A. A. CROZIER. A collection of errors
and superstitions entertained by farmers, gardeners and others, together
with brief scientific refutations. Highly interesting to students and
intelligent readers of the new and attractive in rural literature, and
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THE NURSERY BOOK.--By L. H. BAILEY. A complete handbook of Propagation
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CONTENTS:
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II.--SEPARATION.
III.--LAYERAGE. Propagation by Layering.
IV.--CUTTAGE. Propagation by Cuttings.
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length, root readily in sharp sand. Give a temperature of about 60 deg., and
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VII.--POLLINATION.
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THE CAULIFLOWER.--BY A. A. CROZIER. Teacher and Practical Origin and
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The Cauliflower Industry.--In Europe. In the United States. Importation
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Cabbage-worm. Stem-rot. Damping-off. Black-leg.
Cauliflower Seed.--Importance of careful selection. Where the seed is
grown. Influence of climate. American-grown seed.
Varieties.--Descriptive catalogue. Order of earliness. Variety tests.
Best varieties.
Broccoli.--Difference between Broccoli and Cauliflower. Cultivation, use
and varieties of Broccoli.
Cooking Cauliflower.--Digestibility. Nutritive value. Chemical
composition. Recipes.
Price, cloth, $1.
PRACTICAL FARM CHEMISTRY.--A Practical Handbook of Profitable
Crop-Feeding, written for Practical Men. By T. GREINER.
Part I. The Raw Materials of Plant-Food.
Part II. The Available Sources of Supply.
Part III. Principles of Economic Application, or Manuring for Money.
This work, written in plainest language, is intended to assist the
farmer in the selection, purchase and application of plant-foods. If you
wish to learn ways how to save money in procuring manurial substances,
and how to make money by their proper use, read this book. If you want
your boy to learn the principle of crop-feeding, and become a successful
farmer, give him a copy of this book. The cost of the book will be
returned a hundred-fold to every reader who peruses its pages with care
and applies its teachings to practice.
Price, cloth, $1.
SPRAYING CROPS.--Why, When and How to Do It.--By PROF. CLARENCE M.
WEED. A handy volume of about 100 pages; illustrated. Covers the whole
field of the insect and fungous enemies of crops for which the spray is
used. The following topics are discussed in a concise, practical manner:
Spraying Against Insects. Feeding Habits of Insects. Spraying Against
Fungous Diseases. The Philosophy of Spraying. Spraying Apparatus.
Spraying Trees in Blossom. Precautions in Spraying. Insecticides used in
Spraying. Fungicides used in Spraying. Combining Insecticides and
Fungicides. Cost of Spraying Materials. Prejudice Against Spraying.
Spraying the Larger Fruits. Spraying Small Fruits and Nursery Stock.
Spraying Shade Trees, Ornamental Plants and Flowers. Spraying
Vegetables, Field Crops and Domestic Animals.
Price in stiff paper cover, 50 cents; flexible cloth, 75 cents.
TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE:
Illustrations have been moved to the nearest appropriate paragraph
break. For the benefit of readers of the text version of this e-book,
a small description was added to 5 decorative line drawings which have
no caption or description in the original text. This addition appears
in parentheses as: "(Drawing of grapes)".
An asterism in the text is represented as: *.*
Inconsistencies in the author's spelling and use of punctuation are
unchanged in this e-text.
Obvious typographical and printer errors have been corrected without
comment.
In addition to obvious errors, the following changes have been made:
1. On page 87: "arguments" was changed to "augments" in the phrase,
"... this only augments the size and depth...."
2. On page 90: "side" was changed to "size" in the phrase, "...
wood the size of a lead-pencil...."