CHAPTER II.

PRELIMINARY PREPARATIONS FOR TRAINING--THE TRELLIS--TYING.

Training the grape vine is practiced for the purpose of keeping the vine

in convenient shape and to allow each cluster to receive its full amount

of space and light. A well trained vine is easily cultivated and

sprayed, and the grapes are readily harvested, and it is only upon such

vines that the best and fairest fruit is uniformly produced. Some kind

of training is essential, for a vine will not often bear good fruit when

it lies upon the ground. In essence, there are three general types or

styles of training, which may be designated as the upright, drooping and

horizontal, these terms designating the direction of the bearing shoots.

The upright systems carry two or more canes or arms along a low

horizontal wire, or sometimes obliquely across a trellis from below

upwards, and the shoots are tied up as they grow to the wires above. The

horizontal systems carry up a perpendicular cane or arm, or sometimes

two or more, from which the shoots are carried out horizontally and are

tied to perpendicular wires or posts. The drooping systems, represented

in the Kniffin and post-training, carry the canes or arms upon a high

horizontal wire or trellis and allow the shoots to hang without tying.

To one or another of these types all the systems of American

grape-training can be referred.

There is no system of training which is best for all purposes and all

varieties. The strong-growing varieties more readily adapt themselves to

the high drooping systems than the weaker varieties, although the

Delaware is often trained on a comparatively low Kniffin with good

effect. The high or drooping systems are of comparatively recent date,

and their particular advantages are the saving of labor in summer tying,

cheapness of the trellis, and the facility with which the ground can be

cultivated without endangering the branches of the vine. The upright

training distributes the bearing wood more evenly upon the vine and is

thought, therefore, to insure more uniform fruit, it keeps the top near

the root, which is sometimes thought to be an advantage, and it is

better suited to the stature of the small-growing varieties. There is,

perhaps, a greater temptation to neglect the vines in the drooping

systems than in the others, because the shoots need no tying and do not,

therefore, demand frequent attention; while in the upright systems the

shoots soon become broken or displaced if not watched. For very large

areas, or circumstances in which the best of care cannot be given the

vineyard, the Kniffin or drooping systems are perhaps always to be

recommended. Yet the Kniffin profits as much from diligence and skill as

the other systems; but it will give better results than the others

under partial neglect. The strong varieties, especially those making

long and drooping canes, are well adapted to the Kniffin styles; but the

smaller sorts, and those stronger sorts which, like Catawba, make an

upright and stocky growth, are usually trained upon the upright systems.

But the merits of both systems are so various and even so little

understood, that it is impossible to recommend either one unqualifiedly.

The advantages in either case are often little more than matters of

personal opinion. It should be said, however, that the Kniffin or

drooping systems are gaining in favor rapidly, and are evidently

destined to overthrow much of the older upright training. This fact does

not indicate, however, that the upright system is to be entirety

superseded, but rather that it must be confined to those varieties and

conditions for which it is best adapted. The two systems will

undoubtedly supplement each other. The horizontal systems are

occasionally used for choice varieties, but they are little known.

_Making the Trellis._--The fall or winter following the planting of the

vineyard, the trellis is begun if the upright systems are used; but this

operation is usually delayed a year longer in the Kniffin systems, and

stakes are commonly used, or at least recommended, during the second

season. In the South the trellis is made the first year. The style of

trellis will depend upon the style of training, but the main features

are the same for all. Strong posts of some durable timber, as cedar,

locust or oak, are placed at such distance apart that two vines can be

set between each two. If the vines are set nine feet apart, the posts

maybe eighteen or twenty feet apart, and a vine will then stand four or

five feet from each post. If the posts in the row are eighteen feet

apart and the rows eight feet apart, about 330 posts will be required to

the acre. Except in very hard and stony lands, the posts are driven with

a heavy maul, although many people prefer to set the end posts in holes,

thinking that they endure the strain better. In all loose soils,

however, posts can be made as firm by driving as by setting with a

spade. All posts should be as firm as possible, in order to hold up the

heavy loads of vines and fruit. In setting posts on hillsides, it is a

common practice to lean them slightly uphill, for there is always a

tendency for the posts to tilt down the slope. For the Kniffin systems,

especially for the strong-growing grapes, the posts must stand six or

six and one-half feet high when set, but a foot less will usually be

sufficient for the upright and horizontal systems. The posts should

stand higher at first than is necessary for the support of the wires,

for they will need to be driven down occasionally as they become loose.

The end posts of each row should be well braced, as shown in several of

the illustrations in this volume.

The wire ordinarily used is No. 12, except for the top wire in the

Kniffin training, which is usually No. 10, as the greater part of the

weight is then upon the top wire. No. 9 is sometimes used, but it is

heavier than necessary. No. 14 is occasionally used for the middle and

upper rows in the upright systems, but it is not strong enough. The

following figures show the sizes and weights of these and similar iron

and steel wires:

No. Diameter in inches. Weight of 100 feet. Feet in 2,000 pounds.

9 .148 5.80 pounds. 34,483

10 .135 4.83 " 41,408

11 .120 3.82 " 52,356

12 .105 2.92 " 68,493

13 .092 2.24 " 89,286

14 .080 1.69 " 118,343

15 .072 1.37 " 145,985

16 .063 1.05 " 190,476

The plain annealed iron wire costs about 3 cents per pound, and the

galvanized--which is less used for vineyards--3-1/2 cents. Of No. 12

wire, about 160 pounds is required per acre for a single run on rows

eight feet apart, and about 500 pounds for three runs. The cost of No.

12 wire per acre, for three runs, therefore, is about $15.

The wire is secured to the intermediate posts by staples driven in

firmly so that the wire will not pull through readily of its own weight,

but still loosely enough to allow of the tightening of the wires. In

other words, the head of the staple should not quite touch the wire.

Grape staples are of three lengths, about an inch, inch and a quarter,

and an inch and a half respectively. The shortest length is little

used. The medium length is used for hard-wood posts and the longest for

soft posts, like chestnut and cedar. These staples cost five cents per

pound usually, and a pound of the medium length contains from 90 to 100

of the No. 10 wire size. An acre, for three wires, will therefore

require, for this size, about nine or ten pounds of staples. In windy

regions, the wires should be placed upon the windward side of the posts.

There are various devices for securing the wire to the end posts, but

the commonest method is to wind them about the post once and secure them

with a staple, or twist the end of the wire back upon itself, forming a

loop. The wires should be drawn taut to prevent sagging with the weight

of fruit and leaves. In order to allow for the contraction of the wires

in winter, some growers loosen the wires after harvest and others

provide some device which will relieve the strain. The Yeoman's Patent

Grape-Vine Trellis is a simple and effective lever-contrivance attached

to each wire, and which is operated to loosen the wires in fall and to

tighten them in spring. The end post is sometimes provided upon the back

with a square-headed pin which works tightly in an inch and a half augur

hole and about which the end of the wire is wound. A square-headed iron

wrench operates the pin, while the tension of the wire around the side

of the post keeps the pin from slipping. This device is not durable,

however. An ingenious man can easily contrive some device for relieving

the tension, if he should think it necessary. As a matter of practice,

however, the wires soon stretch and sag enough with the burden of fruit

and vines to take up the winter contraction, and most growers do not

release the wires in fall. It will be found necessary, in fact, to

tighten the wires and to straighten up the posts from year to year, as

they become loose. It is always a profitable labor to tamp the ground

firmly about all the posts every spring. The wires should always be kept

tight during the growing season to prevent the whipping of the vines by

wind. This is especially important in white grapes, which are discolored

by the rubbing of leaves and twigs. Unless the vines are very strong it

will be necessary to stretch only one wire the first winter.

Trellises are often made of slats, as shown in Fig. 18, but these are

always less durable than the wire trellises and more expensive to keep

in repair; and in the older portions of the country, where timber is

dear, they are also more expensive at the outset. They catch the wind,

and, not being held together by continuous strands, are likely to blow

down in sections. Fuller particulars concerning the styles of trellis

are given in the discussions of the different systems of training.

_Tying._--Probably the best material for tying the canes and shoots to

the trellis is raffia. This is a bast-like material which comes in

skeins and which can be bought of seedsmen and nurserymen for about 20

cents a pound. A pound will suffice to tie a quarter of an acre of

upright training throughout the season. Raffia is obtained from the

strippings of an oriental palm (_Raphia Ruffia_). Wool-twine is also

still largely used for tying, but it is not so cheap and handy as

raffia, and it usually has to be cut when the trellis is stripped at the

winter pruning, while the raffia breaks with a quick pull of the vine.

Some complain that the raffia is not strong enough to hold the vine

during the season, but it can easily be doubled. Osier willows are much

used for tying up the canes in the spring, and also for summer tying,

especially in the nursery regions where the slender trimmings of the

cultivated osier willows are easily procured. Wild willows are often

used if they can be obtained handily. These willows are tied up in a

small bundle, which is held upon the back above the hips by a cord

passed about the body. The butts project under the right hand, if the

person is right-handed, and the strands are pulled out as needed. The

butt is first used, the tie being made with a twist and tuck, the strand

is then cut off with a knife, and the twig is operated in like manner

until it is used up. When wool-twine is used, the ball is often held in

front of the workman by a cord which is tied about it and then passed

about the waist. The ball is unwound from the inside, and it will hold

its shape until the end becomes so short that it will easily drag upon

the ground. Some workmen carry the ball in a bag, after the manner of

carrying seed-corn. Raffia is not so easily carried in the field as the

wool-twine or the willow, and this fact interferes with its popularity.

Green rye-straw, cut directly from the field, is much used for tying the

shoots in summer. Small wire, about two-thirds the size of broom-wire,

is used occasionally for tying up the canes in spring, but it must be

used with care or it will injure the vine. Corn-husks are also employed

for this purpose when they can be secured. Bass-bark is sometimes used

for tying, but in most of the grape regions it is difficult to secure,

and it has no advantage over raffia.

It is very important that the canes be tied up early in spring, for the

buds are easily broken after they begin to swell. These canes are tied

rather firmly to the wires to hold them steady; but the growing shoots,

which are tied during the summer, are fastened more loosely, to allow of

the necessary increase in diameter.

[Illustration: (Drawing of grapes)]

American grape training · 第 2 / 5 章