CHAPTER XVI.

A Journey to the King's Country.--An Experienced

"Whip."--Volcanic Hills.--A New Zealand Forest.--A Strangely

Afflicted Boy.--Lake Rotorua.--Ohinemutu.--Funeral of a

Maori Chief.--Wailing and Weeping.--Moonlight on the

Lake.--Wonderland.--Spouting Geysers and Boiling

Pools.--Savage Mode of Slaughter.--Maori Houses.--Chivalry

and Cannibalism.--Savage and Civilized Life.

Here in Auckland we were also in the vicinity of the Hot Lake District

of North New Zealand, and a week was devoted to a visit to the

remarkable points of interest connected therewith. To accomplish this,

one goes from the capital of the Province a hundred and thirty miles to

Oxford, and thence thirty miles by stage to the native town of

Ohinemutu. This route carries the traveller in a southeast course, and

leads into the very heart of the North Island, among the Maori tribes.

The cars took us over a level country, which however is bounded on

either side, five or six miles distant, by lofty serrated hills,

presenting a confusion of irregular forms. These hills contain an

abundance of mineral wealth in the form of gold, silver, iron, coal, and

manganese. Many low-lying marshy fields of native flax were observed,

and the Waikato River was three times crossed in its winding course.

Large plantations containing several thousand each of young pine-trees

of the American species were seen, covering gentle slopes and many broad

acres of level land, where Government is endeavoring to establish

artificial forests throughout wide reaches of unwooded country. These

trees grow more rapidly here than they do even in their native soil.

Miles upon miles of this level country were covered only by the

low-growing ti-tree and the ever present ferns; the former, being a sort

of tall heath, was in some places in bloom, producing an effect as if a

light fall of feathery snow had lodged upon the delicate branches.

Flocks of sheep and lambs were numerous, but the population was sparse.

The whole landscape was lighted up here and there by the bright yellow

leaves of the wattle-tree, which contrasted strongly with the black

beech, the deep green of the cabbage-palm, and what is called the

white-pine, which is totally unlike any pine we ever saw. Several

miniature villages were passed through, where a few small European

houses clustered in the neighborhood of the railroad depots, consisting

of a blacksmith's forge, a grocery-store, a one-story inn, and three or

four dwellings. There was plenty of water everywhere. Now it was a small

and pretty stream, and again it was a large river's course. At one rural

hamlet a rustic water-wheel was revolving, splashing and sparkling in

the sunshine with a noisy, gleeful sound, telling how easily and

thoroughly these fields might be irrigated. We passed through what is

called the Waikato Pastures, a rural district where herds of

fine-looking cattle were browsing, and where cheese-making is a

flourishing industry. Some coal mines were being worked upon the route,

connected by side-tracks with this main branch of the railroad; the

coal, it was plain to see, was a good article for domestic use or for

manufacturing purposes. Small Maori encampments, composed of a dozen

lodges each, were scattered along our way, the lazy, tattooed

natives--men and women--lingering about the stations with blackened

pipes in their mouths, smoking the rankest sort of tobacco, while they

kept up a chattering like Benares monkeys. Why Maori women and savage

squaws generally are so fond of wearing men's hats, with a feather stuck

into them, we cannot understand; for though serving the purpose of a

head-covering, they are far from being ornamental. The awkward Maori men

looked doubly outre in their ill-fitting European clothes.

Oxford is the somewhat pretentious name given to the hamlet where the

railroad ends, containing five houses, one of which is the Oxford

Royal,--a neat but circumscribed inn, affording us a sleeping apartment

measuring exactly seven feet wide by nine in length. The stage-drive

from here to Ohinemutu--the centre of the geysers, boiling springs, and

mud caldrons, and also of the Maori reservation--is by a road a little

over thirty miles in length, which we do not hesitate to pronounce to be

the hardest to travel that it has yet been our misfortune to encounter.

The patient reader will bear witness that we do not often parade the

hardships of travel, but it makes our bones ache to recall those seven

hours of staging; and yet they were by no means without their

compensation. It was the author's good fortune to sit upon the box with

an experienced and admirable "whip,"--Harry Kerr by name,--who was fully

equal to his business. The vehicle was an American stage, the harnesses

on the horses were American made, and the stage line was owned by an

American,--a resident in New Zealand for many years, during which time

he has held a mail contract throughout the country. We travelled

lightly, there being no other passenger, and four stout horses forming

the motive power; but had not the stage been constructed of the best

seasoned material, and put together in the most thorough manner, it

would have been left upon the road in fragments before it had completed

the trip. The traveller under such circumstances is always more or less

dependent upon the intelligence of the driver who takes him through a

new country, and we cheerfully acknowledge our indebtedness on this

occasion. We can well understand why Harry Kerr is a favorite in the

Auckland district.

On leaving Oxford the journey takes one at first through a section of

country where the hills were thrown about in the wildest fashion during

the ancient volcanic period, causing them to present a grotesqueness of

aspect which is quite beyond description. Here the bowels of the earth

vomited forth their fiery secretions of molten lava, and as it cooled,

it formed itself into countless ridges and hills, no two of which are

alike. The road wound over hills, down into gulches, and skirted

precipices where to have deviated a few inches only from the proper

track would have been instant destruction. As we rose to the summit of

some elevation loftier than the rest, the view became expansive. From

one of these summits was seen, nearly one hundred miles away on the far

horizon, the broad, bold, snow-covered mountain Ruapehu, ten thousand

feet high. The last portion of the journey from Oxford to Ohinemutu took

us through one of the grandest forests in all New Zealand, extending

eighteen or twenty miles without a human habitation or any sign of life,

save the flutter of an occasional bird.

In this forest, mingled with tall columnar trees of various species,

were seen frequent examples of the fern-tree thirty feet in height and

of surpassing beauty, spreading out their plumed summits like an

Egyptian palm, while the stem had the graceful inclination of the

cocoanut-tree. Well has the fern-tree been called the forest Houri. The

picturesque effect of the birches was also remarkable, flanked by the

massive outlines and drooping tassels of the rimu, the soft luxuriance

of the undergrowth adding charms to the whole. For miles of the way on

either side of the road the forest was impenetrable even to the eye save

for the shortest distance, presenting a tangled mass of foliage, vines,

and branches such as can be matched only by the virgin forests of Brazil

or the jungles of India. Ground-ferns were observed in infinite

variety, sometimes of a silvery texture, sometimes of orange-yellow, but

oftenest of the various shades of green. Here too we made acquaintance

with the sweet-scented manuka, the fragrant veronica, and the

glossy-leaved karaka,--this last the pride of the Maoris. A dark-colored

shrub, with leaves like the orange-tree, their under side being of a

quicksilver hue, was pointed out to us by the driver, which though

poisonous, as he declared, to horses, sheep, and cattle, is nevertheless

eaten by them with avidity whenever they chance to come upon it. Its

first effect is to intoxicate them, and it will ultimately prove fatal

unless an antidote is given. Many specimens of the lofty rimu-tree were

seen, about whose tall white stems a parasitic vine was slowly and

treacherously weaving itself, clasping and binding the upright body with

such a marvellous power of compression as literally to strangle it,

until ultimately the vine becomes a stout tree in place of the original.

The most noted and destructive of these vegetable boa-constrictors is

the gigantic rope-like rata, whose Gordian knot nothing can untie. The

tree once clasped in its toils is fated, yielding up its sap and life

without a struggle to cast off its deadly enemy. Many trees were

observed whose stems bore branches only far above the surrounding woods,

laden with bunches of alien foliage,--parasites like the mistletoe.

Indeed, this forest seemed like vegetation running riot; and with its

clumps of abnormal foliage, fixed like storks' nests in the tops of the

trees, it recalled similar effects seen on the banks of the St. John's

River in Florida.

Midway in these almost impenetrable woods, where the soil was literally

smothered by vegetation and a wilderness of undergrowth, we came upon a

lonely cottage, with a large barn and some outbuildings attached, which

had been established by the owner of the stage line; and here our four

jaded horses were changed for fresh ones.

At this isolated spot we saw a remarkably handsome boy between six and

seven years of age, large and well-formed for one of his years, wearing

only a blouse reaching to his knees,--otherwise being entirely without

clothing. It was instantly apparent that he was mentally deficient, and

his eccentric gambols caused us to make further inquiries. It seems that

his mother, an intelligent Englishwoman, four or five months before the

boy was born had been so terribly frightened by a furious bull as to

throw her into convulsions, from which she was with difficulty restored.

The eccentricities of the child began to exhibit themselves as soon as

he had reached a twelvemonth, and from that period his actions became

more animal than human. He cares only for vegetable food, living mostly

on potatoes. The use of the knife and fork he utterly ignores, taking

his food from the plate with his mouth, not using his hands. He smells

of every new thing or person when first presented to his notice. He will

not abide clothing beyond the blouse already spoken of, and when he is

restrained in any purpose butts with his forehead like a bull. The boy

has never uttered any words distinctly, though he makes half-articulate

sounds of assent and negation. Sometimes he walks about with his head

extended before him, mooing like a bovine, and on such occasions he

takes no notice of any words addressed to him or any attempt to divert

him. He is quite mischievous, but not viciously so; it is necessary to

keep wire screens over the glass windows, which he would otherwise put

his head through when he desired to get into the open air. He was

running about the space before the house and roadway when we saw him,

and submitted to our kindly caress, even uttering sympathetic sounds in

response, while his large black eyes looked into our own with a

half-pleading, half-grateful expression. The father told us that the

favorite amusement of the boy was tossing small articles high into the

air and seeing them fall to the earth. Having this in mind, we

commissioned Harry Kerr to purchase a strong ball for the unfortunate

child, and to bring it to him on the return trip. The health of the boy

has always been perfect, and his strength is equal to that of a youth of

twice his age. He has brothers, one older and one younger than himself,

both of whom seem to be of even more than ordinary intelligence, and all

are over-fond of the unfortunate one.

After leaving the forest and crossing a volcanic mountain, the road

winds across the broad reach of table-land which borders Lake Rotorua,

whose waters lay shimmering under the warm and brilliant tints of the

afternoon sun. We drove for three or four miles along the side of this

beautiful and romantic sheet of water, concerning whose one island the

Maoris have many curious legends, prominent among which is one nearly

identical with that of Leander and the Hellespont,--possibly antedating

that classic story, and thus proving that "there is nothing new under

the sun." This lake is justly celebrated for its scenic beauty and

remarkable surroundings, being about ten miles long by eight or nine in

width.

As we approached the quaint little settlement of Ohinemutu, over which

floated a heavy sulphurous cloud of steam, a motley cortege was met,

consisting of men, women, and children decked in all the gay colors

which delight the Maori heart. Their heads were dressed in gorgeous

feathers, yellow wattle-blossoms, and other fantastic ornaments, their

faces rendered hideous by tattooing. Each of the women had an infant

upon her back, held in position by a tawdry shawl arranged in the form

of a sack and tied across the breast. These natives called to mind the

feather-crowned Crow Indians of the Yellowstone Valley, both races

living in a wonderland of geysers, boiling springs, and sulphurous

vapor. This display proved to be a funeral procession in honor of a dead

chief named Rotohika. Curiosity led us to follow the procession to the

grave near at hand, where the ceremony was brief but peculiar. Two of

the dead chief's wives knelt by the coarse wooden box which supplied

the place of a coffin, and made sacrifice of their long dark locks of

hair, cutting them from their heads and placing them in the box

containing the body of the deceased. The box was then lowered into the

grave, each relative throwing a shovelful of dirt upon it, and others

followed, quickly filling up the cavity. The throng then returned to

their huts with manifest eagerness, to participate in a grand feast.

After the burial is completed the grave is placed under what is termed

"tapu,"--or in other words the spot is made sacred, to be avoided

always; to tread upon it is considered a desecration.

We were told that formerly the burial ceremony of a chief involved the

sacrifice of at least one human life. If the tribe had a prisoner of war

on hand, his life sufficed. After sprinkling his blood upon the grave,

his body was roasted and eaten at the grand feast which followed. The

Maori "wakes" his dead after the Irish fashion, the revel lasting as

long as the money holds out, and almost any excess is condoned on these

occasions, which are characterized by the strangest and most weird

dances, the wildest shouts and wailings, the most fantastic distortion

of body and limbs that can be conceived of. On the occasion at which we

were present the performers, especially the women, seemed to us for the

time being to lose their reason, and to become maniacs, exciting one

another to a state of frenzy. To listen to the native _tangi_, or wail

for the dead, one would think it represented the most natural and

heart-broken grief, accompanied as it is by a copious fall of tears; but

this is all pretence. It is wonderful how these Maori women can summon

such perfect showers of tears at will; we saw them shed Niagaras of

brine, which of course deceived no one. It was as purely a mechanical

operation as is the work of a hydraulic ram. A wail of grief is started

by some one among the mourners, when it is taken up and continued for

hours by the others, now one and now another prolonging the note with

unabated vigor. Though realizing that this is so largely mere pretence,

one cannot listen to the sad note of the _tangi_ without a corresponding

sense of sorrowful emotion. The present occasion being the decease of a

great man among them, drew forth the most exaggerated expressions, and

the wailing was at times almost deafening.

The Lake House, presided over by the intelligent and lady-like Mrs.

Graham, afforded us every comfort as well as admirable service, hardly

to be anticipated in so isolated a spot. The window of our chamber

overlooked Lake Rotorua; and as the moon was at its full on that first

evening of our arrival, the scene was indescribably lovely. It was an

inspiration to stand on the shore of the lake, beholding the heavens

above, and their reflected glory in the mirror-like waters below. The

wailing, singing, and dancing among the natives had ceased; the

performers had rolled themselves in their blankets, and worn out with

excess were sleeping; the night and its peace were over all,--and yet

it was as light as mid-day. One certainly feels inclined to give New

Zealand moonlight precedence over anything of the sort elsewhere. How it

silvered the unruffled surface of the lake! So calm, so intense, so

dazzlingly brilliant were its shining waters that they seemed to put the

stars out of countenance. With a couple of tawny, tattooed natives we

took a long, lazy row upon Rotorua at midnight, "the dusky hour

friendliest to sleep and silence," permitting the boat at times to float

after its own fancy, while we dreamed a dream of peace. So quiet were

the scene and the hour that both oarsmen leaned upon the thwarts and

slept. It was enchantment verified; one was loath to break the spell by

arousing the sleepers and turning shoreward. By and by the silence, only

slightly broken by the light dip of the oars, became almost oppressive,

and we said, "Give us a song, men! a Maori song;" and those rough,

dark-hued rowers broke forth in a low, weird chant as we glided smoothly

over the water, seeming to be the only adjunct needed to fill the

measure of that midnight hour.

And yet it is difficult to say which was the more inspiring,--the sweet,

suggestive hours of the moon's reign, or those of the delicious break of

day across the lake, so quickly followed by the sunrise. How responsive

were the waiting waters to every fresh hue and color of the returning

morn! The moonlight had recalled many thoughts of the past, memories

both sad and joyous; while the sunlight was full of hope, promise, and

present grandeur. Those of our readers who have seen at the foot of the

Maritime Alps, on the shores of the Mediterranean, the change of night

into morning, will most readily understand what the break of day really

is over Lake Rotorua.

Once fairly within the area of this south land of varied wonders, the

most active volcanic region of the Antipodes, nothing seems too strange

to be true; geysers, fumaroles, boiling springs, and dry stones burning

hot beneath one's feet, as though the surface of the land covered

Nature's chemical laboratory, are all regarded by the visitor as quite

the proper thing,--in fact, just what is to be expected. Even the scores

of naked Maori bathers, of both sexes, outrage no sense of propriety in

this weird atmosphere of Ohinemutu. One seems to be surrounded by a race

upon whose semi-civilization the era of clothes has not yet dawned. The

Maori inhabitants of Wairoa, the native town which was so recently

buried with all its people by a volcanic outburst, had no more reason to

anticipate any immediate danger than have these natives on the banks of

Lake Rotorua. Indeed, so far as external evidence of subterranean

volcanic force is concerned, the inhabitants of Wairoa had not one half

the threatening tokens about them that exist here at every turn.

Sulphur, alkaline, and iron-impregnated pools of inviting temperature

induce one to indulge in frequent baths, and it seems but natural that

the natives in their semi-nude condition should pass so much of their

time in the water, both sexes mingling in this pleasure as they would do

in the ordinary avocations of life. Near to the shore, where the lake

is shallow, a boiling spring forces its way to the surface of the

surrounding cold water, telling of a submerged fiery caldron underlying

the lake at that particular point. It was, however, no more significant

than the scores of other steam-holes and spouting geysers which force

themselves to the surface all about this sulphurous region. In short,

the town of Ohinemutu is built on a thin crust, roofing over, as it

were, a vast fiery furnace, whose volcanic eccentricities form the

marvel of the locality.

Here then the traveller eats, drinks, and sleeps above a series of

suppressed volcanoes. One could not but recall the fate of Lisbon and of

half-exhumed Pompeii. Many of these springs and geysers are so hot that

a mere touch of the water will blister the human flesh as quickly as

contact with red-hot iron. Others are of a temperature suitable for

boiling vegetables; and still others by artificial means--that is, the

introduction of cool surface-water--are rendered of a temperature

suitable for bathing purposes. One must walk cautiously among these

boiling mud-pits, open springs, and steam-holes; a misstep might prove

instantly fatal. Caldrons lie on either side of the path, within a few

inches of where one may be walking all unsuspiciously. A Maori child

lately disappeared while playing near some sulphurous jets. A full-grown

aboriginal met the same fate not long ago; he had been partaking too

freely of intoxicants, and sank into the Stygian darkness without

uttering a cry. One coolly records these facts; but what an awful fate

to encounter!

The natural conclusion as to the cause of these remarkable phenomena

would seem to be that the waters of the lakes, rivers, and springs

descend by various channels to the fiery regions below, and are returned

by the force of the steam thus created, bringing up with them the debris

which is deposited about the surface. Of the hundreds of these boiling

springs only a score or so have been analyzed; no two, however, exhibit

the same properties. The various chemical combinations seem to be

without limit, and bathing in them is considered to be a specific for

some skin-diseases as well as for rheumatic affections. There can be no

doubt but that all the virtues possessed by similar springs in Europe or

America are equally combined in these of New Zealand, and the list of

remarkable cures which they have accomplished is annually increasing.

White faces are here the exception; dusky, bronzed ones, the rule. This

is the real home of the natives, and for ages has formed the chief

settlement of the Arawa tribe. Nothing could possibly be more grotesque

than to see groups of the native women--from the wrinkled old grandams

to the girls of a dozen years--bathing at all hours in the warm,

steaming pools without any apparent thought of undue exposure. It is

their daily, almost hourly resort. As a rule, a blanket forms their only

covering; and if they are cold, day or night, they at once resort to the

hot springs for warmth. Their chief occupations are literally bathing,

and smoking tobacco,--the women using the pipe even more freely than the

men. Of regular occupation they have none. A few potatoes are planted

and allowed to grow without cultivation, and these with pork form their

chief food. Some small lake fish are added to their diet occasionally;

but this amounts to very little, as a lake so under volcanic influences,

so impregnated by sulphur springs and super-heated waters, as is

Rotorua, is not a favorable place for fish breeding.

The revels incident upon a funeral are often kept up for a week or more.

To conduct the ceremonies with due eclat for the death of the late chief

of whom mention has been made, much extra food was necessary to

entertain the visiting representatives of other tribes, men and women,

who had come to Ohinemutu. We chanced to witness the preparing of a

portion of the feast on the second day after our arrival. A native

seized a large pig by the hind leg, in the midst of the animals feeding

about among the fern-roots, and pulled him backwards toward the lake.

The animal took matters very coolly, much to our surprise, and made no

noise about it. Maori and pig thus backed into the water until the man

was waist-deep, when he suddenly seized the other hind leg of the animal

and threw him upon his back, at the same time putting his foot upon him,

thus holding the pig under water for the space of a couple of minutes,

until life in the animal became extinct. With the aid of one or two

companions, the native then proceeded to chop the pig into small pieces

with an axe and a hatchet. A large camp-kettle stood hard by, in which

some herbs and a few potatoes with spring water had been placed. Into

this kettle the crude, unwashed portions of the carcass were thrust

until it was full to its brim, and then a sheet-iron cover was pressed

on the top and held down by a couple of large stones. A small fire of

chips built upon the hot stones on which the kettle stood in the open

air, soon set the pot to boiling, and in half an hour's time the mess

was quite sufficiently cooked for Maori taste. It was then devoured

eagerly by the hungry mourners who sat round the pot without any attempt

at ceremony, and, so far as we could discover, without the use of knives

or plates; hands and fingers seemed to be all-sufficient. The natives

sometimes partake of bread, when they can get it; but potatoes

constitute their chief diet. The little cooking in which they indulge is

usually performed by the boiling springs, in which they suspend their

potatoes in small wicker nets; and for baking purposes they use the

red-hot stones that are to be found in plenty in this vicinity. These

broad flat stones are the identical ones on which the natives in the

past used to roast their prisoners of war before eating them. It is

impossible to bear one's hand on them for an instant; the wonder is that

stones subjected to such constant heat do not become calcined and break

in pieces.

There are no means for building fires inside the native cabins, which

have little or no furniture; in place of using chairs, the natives squat

upon their hams, like nearly all savage races, and most of the Eastern

tribes. Their beds are composed of dried fern-leaves, sometimes raised a

few inches above the level of the earth floor; but quite as often

nothing but the fern-leaves intervene between the body and the ground.

The _wharry_, or cabin, is always the same, and contains but one

apartment, with a low doorway and an overhanging thatch of dried ti-tree

interwoven with long grasses. There is no matting or flooring of any

sort upon the ground within the cabin. Ohinemutu is built over a region

so heated by internal fires that the earth is dry and warm,--too warm we

thought. There is one compensation, however, for the risk of thus

building one's home over burning sulphurous regions,--no insects or

vermin can exist in these ground-floor huts, which the uncleanly habits

of their occupants would otherwise tend to make swarm with such

parasites. In these cabins there is sometimes seen a rude attempt at

ornamentation in carving, but the images are grotesque, and to us were

quite unmeaning,--consisting generally of hideous heads with blood-red

lolling tongues and dwarf-shaped bodies. The natives have very little

idea of decoration, except tattooing and the wearing of a few personal

ornaments.

There is a green stone--nephrite--native to New Zealand, which is prized

by the women for personal wear, and which admits of a high degree of

polish. This stone in various shapes is worn as ear-rings, amulets tied

about the neck, or made into beads; it is sometimes worn

bracelet-fashion about the wrists or ankles. There is another and less

common ornament worn by the Maori women; namely, a small pink or white

feather thrust through the cartilage of the nose, the ends hanging down

on either side, shading the upper lip like a moustache. This recalled

the brass and silver rings worn through nose and lips, as seen in South

Africa and the Straits Settlements. The young women of the tribes that

are brought most in contact with the whites are giving up the tattooing

process upon their faces; but those of middle age, or older, are defaced

by blue lines about the lower lip and the chin. The pride of the women

is to wear a short skirt of some high-colored material, and to wrap

themselves in a blanket of the "loudest" pattern,--flaming red or yellow

being preferred. The men affect more the dress of Europeans.

The Maoris differ in many essential particulars from most savage races

with whom we have chanced to meet. Unlike the American Indian, the Maori

is neither treacherous nor deceitful. He does not, like our American

savage, foster a spirit of secret revenge, but when his enmity is

aroused it is openly displayed and exercised, man-fashion. This has been

a tribal trait with the Maoris for centuries. Before declaring war the

Maori always gives his enemy fair notice. But for ages he has been

accustomed to go to war upon imaginary grievances; or, to put it more

clearly, his great object was to make prisoners, and when made, to cook

and eat them.

The early Maoris, even so late as sixty years ago, looked upon war--what

we should call civil war; that is, fighting one tribe with another--as

being the only legitimate object of life. No two tribes, however nearly

allied, were proof against an ever present liability to fall out with

each other and engage in internecine strife. An authentic anecdote was

told to us illustrative of this propensity to fight where no principle

whatever was involved. A certain chief of a tribe living near Rotorua

received a message from a neighboring chief which he construed into an

insult; and he indignantly declared that the sender would not have

ventured upon such a message had he not known and counted upon the

superiority of the weapons of war which he possessed, which, it seemed,

embraced a number of European fire-arms. When this imputation of

unfairness and cowardice came to the ears of the first chief, he divided

all his weapons into two lots, and sent for his rival to come and choose

between them. This done, of course there was no further excuse for not

fighting. The tribes fought a long and bloody battle, followed on both

sides by a great feasting upon each other's prisoners! Here was united,

most indisputably, a spirit of chivalry with that of ferocity. In these

days, however, the Maoris have settled down to a life of quiet, and

could hardly be more peacefully inclined; they are now as lazy and

listless as the Arabs.

It is surprising how well these Maoris got along without civilization.

It is fully as surprising to see how they wilt and fade away with it.

Whether the white man has been upon the whole of any advantage to them

is certainly an open question. They originally possessed a language

composed of a copious vocabulary, and also a complete social system that

answered their purpose. Their houses, rude as they were, kept out the

heat of the summer sun and retained the necessary warmth in winter,--and

this in a degree quite superior to European houses. Their food-supply,

eked out by cannibalism, was ample though not varied, while their

natural condition involved few necessities. Their wars promoted a

condition of robustness as well as a spirit of enterprise and activity.

But with civilization came rum, tobacco, and laziness. Far be it from us

to argue in favor of the savage life above that of the civilized; but to

judge these savage races correctly or fairly, we must look at them from

their own standpoint, not from ours.

Under the Southern Cross Or Travels in Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand, Samoa, and Other Pacific Islands · 第 16 / 17 章