Arrival at Cincinnati—Entertainments given by that city—Swiss of
Vevay—State of Ohio—The Vinton family—Journey from Wheeling to
Uniontown—Speech of Mr. Gallatin—New Geneva—Bradock’s
field—General Washington’s first feat of arms—Pittsburgh.
On the 19th of May, at 10 o’clock in the morning, we arrived on the left
bank of the Ohio. The first object that attracted my view on the side,
and almost opposite to us, was the handsome city of Cincinnati,
majestically covering a large amphitheatre, at the foot of which, the
river, upwards of half a mile in width, flows peaceably. Several boats,
carrying a deputation from the city of Cincinnati, and some officers of
the staff, had been waiting since morning for the arrival of General
Lafayette. We entered, with our fellow travellers from Frankfort, into
the handsomest of these boats, and rapidly crossed the river. We landed
under a salute of thirteen guns, and cries of “Welcome, Lafayette,”
repeated by thousands of voices in honour of the guest of America. In
presence of the people assembled on the banks of the river, and of
several regiments of militia formed in line, Governor Morrow received
him in the name of the state, and having placed him by his side in a
calash, conducted him to the hotel in the midst of enthusiastic
testimonies which it would be impossible to describe.
It was General Harrison, whose name is so gloriously associated with the
principal events of the last war, who received General Lafayette at his
quarters, and addressed him in the name of the state of Ohio. In a
discourse, filled with sentiments of tenderness and gratitude towards
Lafayette, General Harrison drew a picture of the prodigious increase
and prosperity, of which the state of Ohio and city of Cincinnati
offered a most admirable example.
When the address was concluded, the crowd, which filled the apartments,
pressed with ardour around General Lafayette, each anxious to be
personally introduced to him. Many revolutionary soldiers were present,
who were not the least zealous in claiming the right to shake hands with
their ancient comrade. There was also a citizen of Cincinnati, whose
name and aspect excited the most tender emotions in the general’s heart.
This was Mr. Morgan Neville, son of Major Neville, his former
aide-de-camp and friend, and maternal grandson of the celebrated Morgan,
who, by his talents and bravery, at the head of his corps of partizans,
during the war of independence, gained great reputation. After some
moments devoted to official introductions, and reciprocal felicitations,
the general returned his thanks to General Harrison, and we proceeded
with a numerous train of free masons to the masonic hall, where many
lodges had met to receive the nation’s guest, and offer fraternal
congratulations upon his arrival in the state of Ohio.
A public dinner and display of fire-works from the highest part of the
town, terminated the day, which was only the prelude to entertainments
on the morrow, more splendid than had ever before been witnessed in
Ohio.
The first honours which the general received at sunrise, were from the
boys and girls belonging to the public schools. Assembled to the number
of six hundred, under the superintendance of their teachers, these
children were ranged in the principal street, where they made the air
echo with _Welcome, Lafayette_. When the general appeared before them,
their young hands scattered flowers under his feet, and Dr. Ruter
advancing, delivered him an address in their name, the sentiments of
which sensibly affected the general, who wished to express his
acknowledgements to the doctor, but, at the moment, was surrounded by
the children, who in a most lively manner stretched out their little
hands to him, and filled the air with their cries of joy. He received
their caresses and embraces with the tenderness of a parent who returns
to his family after a long absence, and then replied to Dr. Ruter’s
address.
Whilst this ceremony was going on, the militia were called to arms, and
at eleven o’clock appeared, formed in line of battle, upon the public
square. In front appeared the fine companies commanded by Captains
Harrison, Emerson, and Avery. The general passed them in review.
Immediately afterwards came the mechanics, forming a long procession, in
the midst of which floated the flags representing their various trades.
The barge in which Lafayette had the preceding evening crossed the Ohio,
followed, mounted upon four wheels, with its oars trimmed and flag
floating in the air. A detachment of revolutionary soldiers marched
around her. We were desired to place ourselves in the middle of this
procession, with which we made various turns through the town on our way
to a large square near the court-house. There the general mounted an
elegant platform, decorated with verdure. The people pressed around him,
and the harmony of a fine band of music having gained the attention of
the multitude, Mr. Lee sung, to the air of the Marseillaise, a martial
ode, of which the last words of each stanza were enthusiastically
repeated by the spectators. A discourse upon the solemnity of the day,
succeeded these patriotic songs. The orator who was to pronounce it
arose, advanced towards the expecting multitude, before whom he remained
some moments silent, his countenance depressed, his hand placed upon his
breast, as if overcome by the greatness of the subject he was to treat.
At length his sonorous voice, although slightly tremulous, was heard,
and the whole assembly soon became fascinated by his eloquence. The
benefits and advantages of freedom, the generous efforts made for its
establishment in the two hemispheres by Lafayette, the picture of the
present and future prosperity of the United States, furnished the topics
of Mr. Benham’s address. He took such possession of the imagination of
his auditors, that even after he had ceased speaking, the attentive
crowd remained some time silent as though they still heard his voice.
Popular eloquence is one of the distinctive characteristics of the
Americans of the United States. The faculty of speaking well in public
is acquired by all the citizens from the universality and excellence of
their education, and is developed in a higher degree by the nature of
their institutions, which call upon each citizen for the exercise of
that power in the discussion of public affairs. In each town, in every
village, the number of persons capable of speaking before a numerous
assembly, is truly surprising; and it is not uncommon to meet among them
men, who, although born in obscurity, have justly acquired great
reputation for eloquence. At the head of such speakers, we may mention
the names of Messrs. Clay and Webster, whose parents were, I think,
farmers, and who, at the present day, might appear with advantage in
comparison with our most distinguished European orators.
After the address of Mr. Benham, the people dispersed, and the
ceremonies were suspended until the hour for the public dinner, to allow
the general some repose. We had hardly returned to Mr. Febiger’s, in
whose hospitable house we lodged, when we saw thirty or forty persons
arrive, who entered the drawing room, and requested permission to speak
to Lafayette. “We are citizens of Vevay,” said an old man at their head,
who spoke to me in French, and for whom all the rest seemed to possess
great deference. “We were induced to hope that the friend of America and
of liberty, would come and visit our little town, and that we should
have the pleasure of showing him our vineyards, and inducing him to
taste the wines of our vintage; but his passage through Kentucky
deprived us of this happiness. Nevertheless, we could not miss seeing
the man whose name was dear to us even before we left our country, and
we resolved upon coming here to salute him.”
I communicated this to the general, who, being unable to come down at
the moment, sent his son to request the visiters to wait for him a short
time. They received Mr. George Lafayette with great tenderness, and
after having repeated to him nearly what they had said to me, they
informed us that they were all Swiss, for the most part from the canton
of Vaud; that the persecutions of the local authorities, the desire of
ameliorating their condition, and love of liberty, had determined them
to leave their country and come to settle in the New World; that they
had founded in the state of Indiana, on the banks of the Ohio, about one
hundred and fifty miles from Cincinnati, a town to which they had given
the name of Vevay; and that about one hundred and fifty-six families
lived there, principally by the produce of their vines, the culture of
which they had succeeded in introducing into this portion of the United
States. Whilst we were listening to these details, the general arrived,
and immediately the Swiss of Vevay having formed a semicircle to receive
him, the most aged among them, whom I had heard called Father Dufour,
advanced and welcomed him by an address full of feeling. When he had
finished speaking, all these inhabitants of Vevay threw themselves into
the arms of the general and tenderly embraced him. They had brought with
them some wine of their vintage, which they presented us, and we joined
them in drinking to the prosperity of their new and the regeneration of
their old country.
It must be confessed that the wine of Vevay is by no means exquisite.
Nevertheless, it is quite a pleasant drink, and, according to my taste,
the best of the wines made in the United States.[15] Although the vine
grows naturally in the forests of North America, it nevertheless submits
to cultivation with difficulty, and, to the present time, it is only by
the greatest care that it can be rendered productive. The sudden changes
of temperature cause it to be affected with diseases which show
themselves by the appearance of numerous little black spots on the
leaves; and the cold nights of autumn often prevent the fruit from
arriving at perfect maturity. The vine-dressers of Vevay have however
succeeded tolerably well in acclimating some of the plants of Europe,
which promise an abundant produce. On our way to the dinner, as we
crossed the public square, we saw the gunners stationed at their park of
artillery. Their elegant and martial uniform, was that of the French
artillery. We were informed that this was the Vevay Artillery Company.
It was, in fact, composed almost entirely of Swiss, among whom a great
number had served in the artillery of the French army. Their manœuvres
appeared to be executed with a precision and rapidity altogether
remarkable.
In the ball which succeeded the banquet, the citizens of Cincinnati
displayed the good taste and elegance which characterize a rich city,
fruitful in resources and long polished by civilization. But that which
charmed the general most, was the delicate attentions offered him on all
sides. More than five hundred persons animated this patriotic party, at
which Messrs. Morrow, governor of Ohio; Desha, governor of Kentucky;
Duval, governor of Florida; Scott, major-general of the United States
army; with many other personages of distinguished rank and character,
were present.
At midnight, at a signal given by the Vevay artillery, we took our leave
of the citizens of Cincinnati, and embarked in the Herald to continue
our journey. The general could hardly force himself away from the circle
of his friends, nor could he cease from expressing his admiration at the
prosperity of Cincinnati, and the state of Ohio, which he denominated
the eighth wonder of the world. One cannot, in fact, avoid being struck
with astonishment at the sight of such prodigious creations of liberty
and industry, of which this state offers so many examples. The simple
progress of its population borders on the marvellous. In 1790, there
were in it only 3,000, whilst at present there are nearly 800,000. In
1820, the town of Cincinnati contained only 9,642 inhabitants, now it
has 18,000. Ohio is both an agricultural and manufacturing state. Its
fertile soil produces abundance of grain and a variety of fruits. In the
southern part they raise a little cotton, whilst the northern section is
celebrated for its rich pasturage. Agriculture is said to occupy 112,000
individuals, while only about 19,000 are annually engaged in
manufacturing. Last year the manufactures of wool, cotton, and thread;
of leather, iron, nails, and maple sugar, amounted to nearly two
millions of dollars. All these products, along with those of
agriculture, have a prospect of increasing considerably every year, and
the excess over the internal consumption always finds an easy market,
the state of Ohio being admirably situated as to facilities of
exportation. For more than four hundred miles, the beautiful river which
waters its south and south-east limits is navigable for large vessels.
Its northern frontiers are for seventy-five miles washed by the waters
of Lake Erie, and a canal running across the whole state joins these two
points, so that Ohio stands upon the great line of internal navigation
which connects New York with New Orleans, passing beyond the Alleghany
mountains.
To all these natural sources of prosperity, Ohio unites another
advantage, which she owes to the happy construction of her constitution;
namely, the abolition of slavery and involuntary servitude. A slave
becomes free as soon as he touches the happy soil of Ohio; and if he
does not enjoy the right of suffrage, and some other political
privileges, he ought not to ascribe it to the partiality of legislators,
but to the melancholy state of ignorance in which his unfortunate race
still exist.
It was on the 22d of May at midnight, when we embarked on board the
Herald, which was to carry us to Wheeling, a small town in Virginia,
situated on the banks of the Ohio, almost on the frontiers of
Pennsylvania. Although we had to run more than three hundred miles, we
nevertheless landed there on the 24th before night. It is true, that,
during our passage, we did not stop except to take in the necessary
supplies of wood, and visit some establishments which we found on the
banks of the river, such as Portsmouth, Galliopolis, Marietta, &c.
which, for the most part, were founded by the French, but the population
is now altogether American, at least with very few exceptions. It was in
one of these small towns, Galliopolis, I believe, that we visited the
family of Mr. Vinton, one of the Ohio representatives to congress, who
was of the small minority that voted against the national recompense
given to Lafayette. Mr. Vinton had not yet returned from Washington
city, but his family received the general in his behalf, with every mark
of tenderness and veneration; and Mrs. Vinton did not leave him until he
returned on board the Herald, whither she wished to accompany him on
foot with all her relatives. This civility in the Vinton family,
sensibly touched the heart of the general, and afforded him a proof,
that the members of the small opposition who had voted against the
proposition of the 20th of December, were not the less his sincere
friends; and that, if they had hazarded their popularity among their
constituents in such a case, it was, as I have before said, only from
motives of public order, and a steady resolution to oppose every
extraordinary measure of finance.
From Wheeling we again entered the state of Pennsylvania, by Washington,
Brownsville, Uniontown, &c. In all this route, the general found the
Virginia and Pennsylvania population in the same dispositions as in the
preceding year; that is to say, the people every where crowding his way,
and conferring upon him the greatest honours. The little town of
Washington, the seat of justice for the county of the same name,
distinguished itself by the brilliancy of its festivals. At Brownsville
we crossed the Monongahela in a batteau, bearing twenty-four young girls
dressed in white, who came to receive the general, and who crowned him
with flowers the moment he came within the limits of the town. At
Uniontown, the seat of justice for the county of Lafayette, he was
received with a simplicity and cordiality calculated to recall the
character of the founders of Pennsylvania. For the purpose of addressing
their national guest, the inhabitants of Uniontown employed, as their
organ of communication, one of his oldest and best friends, Mr.
Gallatin, known in Europe from his diplomatic labours, and whom the
American leaders have always reckoned among the number of their most
able defenders.
Placed upon a stage raised in the centre of the town, Mr. Gallatin
received General Lafayette, and addressed him in the name of the
surrounding people, who listened in silence.
Mr. Gallatin is not of the number, unfortunately too great, of those
foreigners, who, from ignorance or envy, incessantly confound the cause
of legitimacy, and the happy results of the French revolution, with the
horrible and sanguinary excesses afterwards perpetrated by those
wretches, who were only the instruments of the servile partizans of
privilege, and who, for the purpose of checking liberty in its noble
career, thought to bring it into disrepute by the crimes committed in
its name. The justice Mr. Gallatin rendered to the courage and wisdom of
the French patriots of 1789, deeply affected General Lafayette, who
expressed to him his gratitude, in a reply distinguished by its
eloquence and the elevation of its sentiments.
After twenty-four hours passed, I will not say amidst entertainments,
but rather in the reception of the most tender and affectionate
testimonials of attachment from the inhabitants of Uniontown, the
general accepted the invitation of Mr. Gallatin, to repose himself a
short time in the bosom of his family; and we accordingly set out with
him for New Geneva, a charming residence, situated on the high and rocky
banks of the Monongahela, at some miles distance from Uniontown. A
detachment of militia from the county of Lafayette, in whose ranks was a
son of Mr. Gallatin, escorted us; and through the whole route we met
groups of the inhabitants, who, in their joyous acclamations, blended
the name of Lafayette with that of Gallatin, to which were associated
the remembrance of innumerable services rendered to this part of
Pennsylvania. We found at New Geneva all that could contribute to the
pleasure of a visit. To the advantages of a situation happily chosen,
are added the charms of an amiable and intelligent society. But the
general was very far from finding there the solitude which his friend
had promised him. During twenty-four hours which we remained at this
delightful place, the doors remained open, to give free access to the
good people of the neighbourhood, who came in crowds to salute their
well beloved guest.
On the 28th of May Mr. Gallatin reconducted us to Uniontown, when we
took leave of him to go to Elizabethtown, a little village situated on
the banks of the Monongahela. We arrived there about twelve o’clock;
when a boat, propelled by four oars, received us on board, and we
descended the river to the famous Braddock’s Field, which we reached
some time after sunset. We were favoured with delightful weather during
our sail, which was rendered highly interesting by the conversation of
our companions, the members of the committee from Uniontown. We surveyed
the shores, which in times past echoed with the cries of victory from
the adventurous sons of France, and which were also the witnesses of
disasters which the faults of a government as presumptuous as imbecile
drew upon them. The recital of the events of that period, chained our
attention until the moment of our landing. It was nine o’clock when we
arrived at Braddock’s field, where the English troops, under the command
of a general of that name, were completely defeated in the month of
July, 1755, by the French and Indians united. The principal
circumstances of that memorable event are too familiar to all those
whose attention has been directed to American history, for me to relate
them here. I will content myself by only repeating, that, it was on that
day, so fatal to British arms, that the man who has since established
the glory and independence of his country, gave the first proofs of his
military talents, and calm intrepidity in battle. If General Braddock
had not scorned the advice of his young aide-de-camp, Washington, he
would not have fought upon ground where every thing was in favour of the
enemy, and thus have sacrificed his army, his fame, and his life.
Although his advice was rejected, the young Washington did not fight the
less heroically; and it was owing to his courage and coolness that the
wreck of the conquered army was saved.
Upon the field of battle, where, even at this day, the plough could not
trace a furrow without turning up bones whitened by time, and fragments
of arms corroded by rust, is situated the large and elegant mansion of
Mr. Wallace, by whom we, as well as our companions, were received with
the most touching and amiable hospitality. We there found already
assembled a numerous deputation sent by the city of Pittsburg, to meet
the general, and the next morning at daylight, detachments of volunteer
cavalry arrived to serve as an escort on our route to that city.
The road which led from Braddock’s field to Pittsburg, although many
miles long, was soon covered by a considerable crowd, in the midst of
which the cavalcade advanced slowly towards the city. On the road we
visited the United States arsenal, which was about half way. The
discharge of twenty-four guns announced the entrance of General
Lafayette into that establishment, when Major Churchill, and the
officers under his command, invited him to breakfast. After having
examined the armoury and workshops, in which we remarked great
regularity, order, and activity, we continued our route towards
Pittsburg, where the general was received, on his entrance into the
city, by the magistrates, at the head of the people, and the militia in
order of battle.
I have had to describe so many triumphal entries into great and rich
cities, whilst narrating General Lafayette’s incomparable journey
through the twenty-four states of the American Union, that, to avoid
repetition, I am obliged to pass over in silence a great number of
receptions whose principal features were alike. It is for this reason I
omit the account of his reception at the national hotel at Pittsburg;
although that city yielded to no other in the United States in the
splendour of her festivals, and in the expression of her sentiments of
patriotic gratitude. But I have yet before me so long a route to survey,
and so many things to relate, that I am forced to imitate Lafayette, who
was obliged to shorten the delicious moments that friendship had every
where prepared for him on his journey, that he might be present at the
celebration at Bunker’s Hill. I will not, however, quit Pittsburg
without paying my tribute of admiration to the eloquence of Mr. Shaler,
who addressed the general in the name of the citizens, and that of Mr.
Gazzam, charged with the presentation of the children of the public
schools. These two orators, so remarkable for elevation of thought, and
elegance of expression, obtained the approbation of their auditors, and
excited in the heart of him whom they addressed the most profound
sentiments of gratitude.
Among the persons or corporations officially presented to General
Lafayette, was a group of old men, who, by their enthusiasm in speaking
of old times, were easily recognized for soldiers of 1776. One of them
addressing his old general, asked him if he still remembered the young
soldier who first offered to carry him on a litter, when he was wounded
at the battle of Brandywine? Lafayette, after having attentively
surveyed him, threw himself into his arms, crying, “No, I have not
forgotten Wilson, and it is a great happiness to be permitted to embrace
him to-day!” Wilson himself, who asked the question, was much affected,
and the incident penetrated the spectators in the most touching manner.
General Lafayette recognized one of his old companions in arms during
the revolution, in the person of the Reverend Joseph Patterson, who came
to visit him with the ministers of different denominations in the city
and neighbouring counties. Joseph Patterson, although a clergyman, had
shouldered his musket, and fought for the independence of his country
through two terrible campaigns of the revolution, and had assisted at
the battle of Germantown.
After having devoted the day of his arrival at Pittsburg to public
ceremonies, the general wished to employ a part of the next day in
visiting some of the ingenious establishments which constitute the glory
and prosperity of that manufacturing city, which, for the variety and
excellence of its products, deserves to be compared to our
Saint-Etienne, or to Manchester in England. He was struck by the
excellence and perfection of the processes employed in the various
workshops which he examined; but that which interested him above all was
the manufacture of glass, some patterns of which were presented to him,
that, for their clearness and transparency, might have been admired even
by the side of the glass of Baccarat.
Pittsburg is situated on the point where the rivers Alleghany and
Monongahela mingle their waters, forming the majestic river Ohio, which,
flowing towards the western and southern states, and even to the
Atlantic, afford an easy outlet for the products of its industry. These,
with the population, increase each year with wonderful rapidity.
Pittsburg now contains eight thousand inhabitants, and a great many
workmen, strangers, who are drawn hither by the prosperity of the
manufactories, coming every year to communicate to them secret processes
and improvements, brought to light by the activity of the European
manufacturers.