of Valparaiso; and soon after falling calm, a great western swell
hurried us in very fast towards the shore. We dropped the lead several
times, but had such deep water we could not anchor. They were all much
alarmed, when the jesuit came out of the cabin for the first time,
having been sea-sick the whole passage. As soon as he was informed of
the danger, he went back into the cabin, and brought out the image of
some saint, which he desired might be hung up in the mizen-shrouds;
which being done, he kept threatening it, that if we had not a breeze
of wind soon, he would certainly throw it overboard. Soon after,
we had a little wind from off the land, when the jesuit carried the
image back with an air of great triumph, saying he was certain that we
should not be without wind long, though he had given himself over for
lost some time before it came. Next morning we anchored in the port of
Valparaiso. In that part which is opposite to the fort, ships lay so
near the land, that they have generally three anchors ashore, as there
is eight or ten fathom close to; and the flaws come off the hills with
such violence, that if it was not for this method of securing them,
they would be blown out. This is only in summer time, for in the winter
months no ships ever attempt to come in here; the northerly winds then
prevail, and drive in such a sea that they must soon be ashore. The
Spanish captain waited upon the governor of the fort, and informed him
that he had four English prisoners on board. We were ordered ashore in
the afternoon, and were received as we got upon the beach, by a file
of soldiers, with their bayonets fixed, who surrounded us, and then
marched up to the fort, attended by a numerous mob. We were carried
before the governor, whose house was full of officers. He was blind,
asked a few questions, and then spoke of nothing but the strength of
the garrison he commanded, and desired to know if we had observed that
all the lower battery was brass guns. We were immediately after, by his
order, put into the condemned hole. There was nothing but four bare
walls, excepting a heap of lime that filled one third of it, and made
the place swarm with fleas in such a manner that we were presently
covered with them. Some of Admiral Pizarro's soldiers were here in
garrison that had been landed from his ships at Buenos Ayres, as he
could not get round Cape Horn. A centinel's box was placed at our door,
and we had always a soldier with his bayonet fixed, to prevent our
stirring out. The curiosity of the people was such, that our prison
was continually full from morning till night, by which the soldiers
made a pretty penny, as they took money from every person for the
sight. In a few days, Captain Cheap and Mr. Hamilton were ordered up
to St. Jago, as they were known to be officers by having saved their
commissions; but Mr. Campbell and I were to continue in prison. Captain
Cheap expressed great concern when he left us; he told me it was what
he had all along dreaded, that they would separate us when we got into
this country; but he assured me, if he was permitted to speak to the
president, that he would never leave soliciting him till he obtained
a grant for me to be sent up to him. No sooner were they gone than we
fared very badly. A common soldier, who was ordered to provide for us
by the governor, brought us each, once a day, a few potatoes mixed with
hot water. The other soldiers of the garrison, as well as the people
who flocked to see us, took notice of it, and told the soldier it was
cruel to treat us in that manner. His answer was, "The governor allows
me but half a real a day for each of these men; what can I do? It is
he that is to blame: I am shocked every time I bring them this scanty
pittance, though even that could not be provided for the money he gives
them." We from this time lived much better, and the soldier brought us
even wine and fruit. We took it for granted, that our case had been
represented to the governor, and that he had increased our pay. As to
the first, we were right in our conjectures; it had been mentioned to
him, that it was impossible we could subsist on what he allowed; and
his answer to it was, that we might starve; for we should have no more
from him, and that he believed he should never be repaid even that.
This charitable speech of the governor was made known every where, and
now almost every one who came to see us gave us something; even the
mule-drivers would take out their tobacco pouch, in which they kept
their money, and give us half a real. All this we would have given to
our soldier, but he never would receive a farthing from us, telling us
we might still want it; and the whole time we were there, which was
some weeks, he laid aside half his daily pay to supply us, though he
had a wife and six children, and never could have the least hope or
expectation of any recompence. However, two years after this, I had
the singular pleasure of making him some return, when my circumstances
were much better than his. One night, when we were locked up, there
happened a dreadful shock of an earthquake. We expected, every moment,
the roof and walls of our prison to fall in upon us, and crush us to
pieces; and what added to the horror of it was, the noise of chains and
imprecations in the next prison which joined to ours, where there were
near seventy felons heavily loaded with irons, who are kept here to
work upon the fortifications, as in other countries they are condemned
to the gallies. A few days after this, we were told an order was come
from the president to the governor to send us up to St. Jago, which is
ninety miles from Valparaiso, and is the capital of Chili. There were
at this time several ships in the port from Lima delivering their
cargoes; so that almost every day there were large droves of mules
going up to St. Jago with the goods. The governor sent for one of the
master-carriers, and ordered him to take us up with him. The man asked
him how he was to be paid our expences, as he should be five days upon
the road. The governor told him he might get that as he could, for he
would not advance him a single farthing. After taking leave of our
friendly soldier, who even now brought us some little matters to carry
with us, we set out, and travelled about fourteen miles the first day,
and lay at night in the open field, which is always the custom of these
people, stopping where there is plenty of pasture and good water for
the mules. The next morning we passed over a high mountain, called
Zapata; and then crossing a large plain, we passed another mountain,
very difficult for the mules, who each carried two heavy bales: there
were above a hundred of them in this drove. The mules of Chili are the
finest in the world; and though they are continually upon the road,
and have nothing but what they pick up at nights, they are as fat and
sleek as high-fed horses in England. The fourth night we lay upon a
plain in sight of St. Jago, and not above four leagues from it. The
next day, as we moved towards the city, our master-carrier, who was
naturally well disposed, and had been very kind to us all the way upon
the road, advised me, very seriously, not to think of remaining in
St. Jago, where he said there was nothing but extravagance, vice, and
folly, but to proceed on with them as mule-driver, which, he said, I
should soon be very expert at; and that they led an innocent and happy
life, far preferable to any enjoyment such a great city as that before
us could afford. I thanked him, and told him I was very much obliged
to him; but that I would try the city first, and if I did not like it,
I would accept of the offer he was so good to make me. The thing that
gave him this high opinion of me was, that as he had been so civil to
us, I was very officious in assisting to drive in those mules that
strayed from the rest upon those large plains we passed over; and this
I thought was the least I could do towards making some returns for the
obligations we were under to him.
When we got into St. Jago, the carrier delivered us to the captain of
the guard, at the palace gate; and he soon after introduced us to the
president, Don Joseph Manso, who received us very civilly, and then
sent us to the house where Captain Cheap and Mr. Hamilton were. We
found them extremely well lodged at the house of a Scotch physician,
whose name was Don Patricio Gedd. This gentleman had been a long time
in this city, and was greatly esteemed by the Spaniards, as well for
his abilities in his profession, as his humane disposition. He no
sooner heard that there were four English prisoners arrived in that
country, than he waited upon the president, and begged they might
be lodged at his house. This was granted; and had we been his own
brothers, we could not have met with a more friendly reception; and
during two years that we were with him, his constant study was to make
every thing as agreeable to us as possible. We were greatly distressed
to think of the expence he was at upon our account; but it was in vain
for us to argue with him about it. In short, to sum up his character in
a few words, there never was a man of more extensive humanity. Two or
three days after our arrival, the president sent Mr. Campbell and me
an invitation to dine with him, where we were to meet Admiral Pizarro
and his officers. This was a cruel stroke upon us, as we had not any
clothes fit to appear in, and dared not refuse the invitation. The
next day, a Spanish officer belonging to Admiral Pizarro's squadron,
whose name was Don Manuel de Guiror, came and made us an offer of two
thousand dollars. This generous Spaniard made this offer without any
view of ever being repaid, but purely out of a compassionate motive
of relieving us in our present distress. We returned him all the
acknowledgments his uncommon generous behaviour merited, and accepted
of six hundred dollars only, upon his receiving our draught for that
sum upon the English consul at Lisbon. We now got ourselves decently
clothed after the Spanish fashion; and as we were upon our parole, we
went out where we pleased to divert ourselves.
This city is situated about 33 degrees and 30 minutes, south
latitude, at the west foot of the immense chain of mountains called
the Cordilleras. It stands on a most beautiful plain of about thirty
leagues extent. It was founded by Don Pedro de Baldivia, the conqueror
of Chili. The plan of it was marked out by him in squares, like Lima;
and almost every house belonging to people of any fashion, has a large
court before it, with great gates, and a garden behind. There is a
little rivulet, neatly faced with stone, runs through every street;
by which they can cool the streets, or water their gardens, when
they please. The whole town is extremely well paved. Their gardens
are full of noble orange-trees and floripondies, with all sorts of
flowers, which perfume the houses, and even the whole city. Much about
the middle of it, is the great square, called the Plaça Real, or the
Royal Square; there are eight avenues leading into it. The west side
contains the cathedral and the bishop's palace; the north side is the
president's palace, the royal court, the council house, and the prison;
the south side is a row of piazzas, the whole length of which are
shops, and over it a gallery to see the bull-feasts; the east side has
some large houses belonging to people of distinction; and in the middle
is a large fountain, with a brass bason. The houses have, in general,
only a ground floor, upon account of the frequent earthquakes; but they
make a handsome appearance. The churches are rich in gilding as well
as in plate: that of the jesuits is reckoned an exceeding good piece
of architecture; but it is too high built for a country so subject to
earthquakes, and where it has frequently happened that thousands of
people have been swallowed up at once. There is a hill, or rather high
rock, at the east end of the city, called St. Lucia, from the top
of which you have a view of all the city, and the country about for
many leagues, affording a very delightful landscape. Their estancias,
or country houses, are very pleasant, having generally a fine grove
of olive trees, with large vineyards to them. The Chili wine, in my
opinion, is full as good as Madeira, and made in such quantities that
it is sold extremely cheap. The soil of this country is so fertile,
that the husbandmen have very little trouble; for they do but in a
manner scratch up the ground, and without any kind of manure it yields
an hundred fold. Without doubt the wheat of Chili is the finest in the
world, and the fruits are all excellent in their kinds. Beef and mutton
are so cheap, that you may have a good cow for three dollars, and a
fat sheep for two shillings. Their horses are extraordinary good; and
though some of them go at a great price, you may have a very good one
for four dollars, or about eighteen shillings of our money. It must
be a very poor Indian who has not his four or five horses; and there
are no better horsemen in the world than the Chileans; and that is not
surprising, for they never choose to go a hundred yards on foot. They
have always their laço fixed to their saddle: the laço is a long thong
of leather, at the end of which they make a sliding noose. It is of
more general use to them than any weapon whatever; for with this they
are sure of catching either horse or wild bull, upon full gallop, by
any foot they please. Their horses are all trained to this, and the
moment they find the thong straitened, as the other end is always made
fast to the saddle, the horse immediately turns short, and throwing
the beast thus caught, the huntsman wounds or secures him in what
manner he may think proper. These people are so dexterous, that they
will take from the ground a glove or handkerchief, while their horse
is upon full stretch; and I have seen them jump upon the back of the
wildest bull, and all the efforts of the beast could not throw them.
This country produces all sorts of metals; it is famous for gold,
silver, iron, tin, lead, and quicksilver, but some of these they do not
understand working, especially quicksilver. With copper they supply
all Peru, and send, likewise, a great deal to Europe. The climate of
Chili is, I believe, the finest in the world. What they call their
winter does not last three months; and even that is very moderate, as
may be imagined by their manner of building, for they have no chimneys
in their houses. All the rest of the year is delightful; for though
from ten or eleven in the morning till five in the afternoon, it is
very hot, yet the evenings and mornings are very cool and pleasant; and
in the hottest time of the year, it is from six in the evening till
two or three in the morning, that the people of this country meet to
divert themselves with music and other entertainments, at which there
is plenty of cooling liquors, as they are well supplied with ice from
the neighbouring Cordilleras. At these assemblies, many intrigues are
carried on; for they think of nothing else throughout the year. Their
fandangoes are very agreeable; the women dance inimitably well, and
very gracefully. They are all born with an ear for music, and most of
them have delightful voices; and all play upon the guitar and harp.
The latter, at first, appears a very aukward instrument for a woman;
yet that prejudice is soon got over, and they far excel any other
nation upon it. They are extremely complaisant and polite; and when
asked either to play, dance, or sing, they do it without a moment's
hesitation, and that with an exceeding good grace. They have many
figure-dances; but what they take most delight in, are more like our
hornpipes than any thing else I can compare them to; and upon these
occasions they shew surprising activity. The women are remarkably
handsome, and very extravagant in their dress. Their hair, which is
as thick as is possible to be conceived, they wear of a vast length,
without any other ornament upon the head than a few flowers; they plait
it behind in four plaits, and twist them round a bodkin, at each end
of which is a diamond rose. Their shifts are all over lace, as is a
little tight waistcoat they wear over them. Their petticoats are open
before, and lap over, and have commonly three rows of very rich lace
of gold or silver. In winter they have an upper waistcoat of cloth of
gold or silver; and in summer, of the finest linen, covered all over
with the finest Flanders lace. The sleeves of these are immensely
wide. Over all this, when the air is cool, they have a mantle, which
is only of bays, of the finest colours, round which there is abundance
of lace. When they go abroad, they wear a veil, which is so contrived
that one eye is only seen. Their feet are very small, and they value
themselves as much upon it as the Chinese do. Their shoes are pinked
and cut; their stockings silk, with gold and silver clocks; and they
love to have the end of an embroidered garter hang a little below the
petticoat. They have fine sparkling eyes, ready wit, a great deal of
good nature, and a strong disposition to gallantry.
By the description of one house you have an idea of all the rest. You
first come into a large court, on one side of which is the stable: you
then enter a hall; on one side of that is a large room, about twenty
feet wide, and near forty feet long; the side next the window is the
estrado, which runs the whole length of the room. The estrado is a
platform, raised about five or six inches above the floor, and is
covered with carpets and velvet cushions for the women to sit on, which
they do after the Moorish fashion, cross-legged. The chairs for the
men are covered with printed leather. At the end of the estrado, there
is an alcove, where the bed stands; and there is always a vast deal of
the sheets hanging out, with a profusion of lace to them, and the same
on the pillows. They have a false door to the alcove, which sometimes
is very convenient. Besides, there are generally two other rooms, one
within another; and the kitchen and other offices are detached from the
house, either at one side or the end of the garden.
The ladies are fond of having their Mulatto female slaves dressed
almost as well as themselves in every respect, excepting jewels, in
which they indulge themselves to the utmost extravagance. Paraguay
tea, which they call Matte, as I mentioned before, is always drunk
twice a-day: this is brought upon a large silver salver, with four
legs raised upon it, to receive a little cup made out of a small
calabash, or gourd, and tipped with silver. They put the herb first
into this, and add what sugar they please, and a little orange juice;
and then pour hot water on them, and drink it immediately, through the
conveyance of a long silver tube, at the end of which there is a round
strainer, to prevent the herb getting through. And here it is reckoned
a piece of politeness for the lady to suck the tube two or three times
first, and then give it the stranger to drink without wiping it.
They eat every thing so highly seasoned with red pepper, that those
who are not used to it, upon the first mouthful would imagine their
throats on fire for an hour afterwards; and it is a common custom here,
though you have the greatest plenty at your own table, to have two or
three Mulatto girls come in at the time you dine, bringing, in a little
silver plate, some of these high-seasoned ragouts, with a compliment
from Donna such-a-one, who desires you will eat a little bit of what
she has sent you; which must be done before her Mulatto's face, or it
would be deemed a great affront. Had this been the fashion at Chiloe,
we should never have offended; but sometimes here we could have wished
this ceremony omitted.
The president never asked any of us a second time to his table. He
expected us once a fortnight to be at his levee, which we never failed;
and he always received us very politely. He was a man of a very amiable
character, and much respected by every body in Chili, and some time
after we left that country, was appointed viceroy of Peru.
We had leave, whenever we asked it, to make an excursion into the
country for ten or twelve days at a time; which we did sometimes
to a very pleasant spot belonging to Don Joseph Dunose, a French
gentleman, and a very sensible, well-bred man, who had married a
very agreeable lady at St. Jago, with a very good fortune. We also
sometimes had invitations from the Spaniards to their country-houses.
We had a numerous acquaintance in the city, and in general received
many civilities from the inhabitants. There are a great many people
of fashion, and very good families from Old Spain settled here. A
lady lived next door to us, whose name was Donna Francisca Giron;
and as my name sounded something like it, she would have it that we
were Parientes. She had a daughter, a very fine young woman, who both
played and sung remarkably well: she was reckoned the finest voice in
St. Jago. They saw a great deal of company, and we were welcome to
her house whenever we pleased. We were a long time in this country,
but we passed it very agreeably. The president alone goes with four
horses to his coach; but the common vehicle here is a calash, or
kind of vis-à-vis, drawn by one mule only. Bull-feasts are a common
diversion here, and they far surpass anything of that kind I ever saw
at Lisbon, or any where else. Indeed, it is amazing to see the activity
and dexterity of those who attack the bulls. It is always done here
by those only who follow it as a trade, for it is too dangerous to be
practised as a diversion; as a proof of which, it is found that though
some may hold out longer than others, there are few who constantly
practice it, that die a natural death. The bulls are always the wildest
that can be brought in from the mountains or forests, and have nothing
on their horns to prevent their piercing a man the first stroke, as
they have at Lisbon. I have seen a man, when the bull came at him with
the utmost fury, spring directly over the beast's head, and perform
this feat several times, and at last jump on his back, and there sit
a considerable time, the bull the whole time attempting every means
to throw him. But though this practitioner was successful, several
accidents happened while I was there. The ladies, at these feasts, are
always dressed as fine as possible; and, I imagine, go rather to be
admired than to receive any amusement from a sight that one should
think would give them pain. Another amusement for the ladies here, are
the nights of their great processions, when they go out veiled; and as
in that dress they cannot be known, they amuse themselves in talking
to people much in the manner that is done at our masquerades. One
night in Lent, as I was standing close to the houses as the procession
went by, and having nothing but a thin waistcoat on under my cloak,
and happening to have my arm out, a lady came by, and gave me a pinch
with so good a will, that I thought she had taken the piece out; and,
indeed, I carried the marks for a long time after. I durst not take
the least notice of this at the time; for had I made any disturbance,
I should have been knocked on the head. This kind lady immediately
after mixed with the crowd, and I never could find out who had done
me that favour. I have seen fifty or sixty penitents following these
processions; they wear a long white garment with a long train to it,
and high caps of the same, which fall down before, and cover all their
faces, having only two small holes for their eyes; so that they are
never known. Their backs are bare, and they lash themselves with a
cat-o'-nine-tails till the long train behind is covered all over with
blood. Others follow them with great heavy crosses upon their backs;
so that they groan under the weight as they walk barefooted, and often
faint away. The streets swarm with friars of all the different orders.
The president has always a guard at his palace regularly clothed. The
rest of their forces consists of militia, who are numerous.