introduce myself, I found only two women, who, upon first seeing a
figure they were not accustomed to, and such a figure too as I then
made, were struck with astonishment. They were sitting by a fire, to
which I approached without any apology. However inclined I might have
been to make one, my ignorance of their language made it impossible to
attempt it. One of these women appeared to be young, and very handsome
for an Indian; the other old, and as frightful as it is possible to
conceive any thing in human shape to be. Having stared at me some
little time, they both went out; and I, without any farther ceremony,
sat me down by the fire to warm myself, and dry the rags I wore. Yet I
cannot say my situation was very easy, as I expected every instant to
see two or three men come in and thrust me out, if they did not deal
with me in a rougher manner.
Soon after the two women came in again, having, as I supposed,
conferred with the Indian, our conductor; and appearing to be in great
good-humour, began to chatter and laugh immoderately. Perceiving the
wet and cold condition I was in, they seemed to have compassion on
me, and the old woman went out and brought some wood, with which she
made a good fire; but my hunger being impatient, I could not forbear
expressing my desire that they would extend their hospitality a little
further, and bring me something to eat. They soon comprehended my
meaning, and the younger beginning to rummage under some pieces of bark
that lay in the corner of the wigwam, produced a fine large fish: this
they presently put upon the fire to broil; and when it was just warm
through, they made a sign for me to eat. They had no need to repeat
the invitation; I fell to, and dispatched it in so short a time, that
I was in hopes they would comprehend, without further tokens, that I
was ready for another; but it was of no consequence, for their stock of
eatables was entirely exhausted.
After sitting some time in conference together, in which conversation
I could bear no part, the women made some signs to me to lay down and
go to sleep, first having strewed some dry boughs upon the ground. I
laid myself down, and soon fell fast asleep; and about three or four
hours after awaking, I found myself covered with a bit of blanket, made
of the down of birds, which the women usually wear about their waist.
The young woman, who had carefully covered me, whilst sleeping, with
her own blanket, was lying close by me: the old woman lay on the other
side of her. The fire was low, and almost burnt out; but as soon as
they found me awake they renewed it, by putting on more fuel. What I
had hitherto eat served only to sharpen my appetite; I could not help,
therefore, being earnest with them to get me some more victuals. Having
understood my necessities, they talked together some little time;
after which getting up, they both went out, taking with them a couple
of dogs, which they train to assist them in fishing. After an hour's
absence, they came in trembling with cold, and their hair streaming
with water, and brought two fish; which having broiled, they gave me
the largest share; and then we all laid down as before to rest.
In the morning my curiosity led me to visit the neighbouring wigwams,
in which were only one or two men; the rest of the inhabitants were all
women and children. I then proceeded to enquire after Captain Cheap and
our Indian guide, whom I found in the wigwam they at first occupied:
the authority of the cacique had procured the Captain no despicable
entertainment. We could not learn what business the men, whose wives
and children were here left behind, were gone out upon; but as they
seldom or never go upon fishing-parties (for they have no hunting here)
without their wives, who take the most laborious part of this pursuit
upon themselves, it is probable they were gone upon some warlike
expedition, in which they use bows and arrows sometimes, but always
the lance. This weapon they throw with great dexterity and force, and
never stir abroad without it. About this time their return was looked
for; a hearing by no means pleasant to me; I was, therefore, determined
to enjoy myself as long as they were absent, and make the most of the
good fare I was possessed of; to the pleasure of which I thought a
little cleanliness might in some measure contribute; I therefore went
to a brook, and taking off my shirt, which might be said to be alive
with vermin, set myself about to wash it; which having done as well
as I could, and hung on a bush to dry, I heard a bustle about the
wigwams; and soon perceived that the women were preparing to depart,
having stripped their wigwams of their bark covering, and carried it
into their canoes. Putting on, therefore, my shirt just as it was, I
hastened to join them, having a great desire of being present at one of
their fishing parties.
It was my lot to be put into the canoe with my two patronesses, and
some others who assisted in rowing; we were in all four canoes. After
rowing some time, they gained such an offing as they required, where
the water here was about eight or ten fathom deep, and there lay upon
their oars. And now the youngest of the two women, taking a basket in
her mouth, jumped overboard, and diving to the bottom, continued under
water an amazing time: when she had filled the basket with sea-eggs,
she came up to the boat-side; and delivering it so filled to the other
women in the boat, they took out the contents, and returned it to her.
The diver, then, after having taken a short time to breathe, went down
and up again with the same success; and so several times for the space
of half an hour. It seems as if Providence had endued this people
with a kind of amphibious nature, as the sea is the only source from
whence almost all their subsistence is derived. This element too,
being here very boisterous, and falling with a most heavy surf upon a
rugged coast, very little, except some seal, is to be got any where
but in the quiet bosom of the deep. What occasions this reflection is
the early propensity I had so frequently observed in the children of
these savages to this occupation; who, even at the age of three years,
might be seen crawling upon their hands and knees among the rocks and
breakers; from which they would tumble themselves into the sea without
regard to the cold, which is here often intense; and showing no fear of
the noise and roaring of the surf.
This sea-egg is a shell-fish, from which several prickles project in
all directions, by means whereof it removes itself from place to place.
In it are found four or five yolks, resembling the inner divisions of
an orange, which are of a very nutritive quality, and excellent flavour.
The water was at this time extremely cold; and when the divers got
into the boats, they seemed greatly benumbed; and it is usual with
them after this exercise, if they are near enough their wigwams, to
run to the fire; to which presenting one side, they rub and chafe it
for some time; then turning the other, use it in the same manner,
till the circulation of the blood is restored. This practice, if it
has no worse effect, must occasion their being more susceptible of
the impressions of cold, than if they waited the gradual advances of
their natural warmth in the open air. I leave it to the decision of the
gentlemen of the faculty, whether this too hasty approach to the fire
may not subject them to a disorder I observed among them, called the
elephantiasis, or swelling of the legs.[5]
[FOOTNOTE 5:
There are two very different disorders incident to the human body,
which bear the same name, derived from some resemblance they hold with
different parts of the animal so well known in the countries to which
these disorders are peculiar. That which was first so named is the
leprosy, which brings a scurf on the skin not unlike the hide of an
elephant. The other affects the patient with such enormous swellings of
the legs and feet, that they give the idea of those shapeless pillars
which support that creature; and therefore this disease has also been
called elephantiasis by the Arabian physicians; who, together with the
Malabarians, among whom it is endemial, attribute it to the drinking
bad waters, and the too sudden transitions from heat to cold.]
The divers having returned to their boats, we continued to row till
towards evening, when we landed upon a low point. As soon as the canoes
were hauled up, they employed themselves in erecting their wigwams,
which they dispatch with great address and quickness. I still enjoyed
the protection of my two good Indian women, who made me their guest
here as before; they first regaled me with sea-eggs, and then went out
upon another kind of fishery by the means of dogs and nets. These dogs
are a cur-like looking animal, but very sagacious, and easily trained
to this business. Though in appearance an uncomfortable sort of sport,
yet they engage in it readily, seem to enjoy it much, and express
their eagerness by barking every time they raise their heads above the
water to breathe. The net is held by two Indians, who get into the
water; then the dogs, taking a large compass, dive after the fish, and
drive them into the net; but it is only in particular places that the
fish are taken in this manner. At the close of the evening, the women
brought in two fish, which served us for supper; and then we reposed
ourselves as before. Here we remained all the next day; and the morning
after embarked again, and rowed till noon; then landing, we descried
the canoes of the Indian men, who had been some time expected from an
expedition they had been upon. This was soon to make a great alteration
in the situation of my affairs, a presage of which I could read in the
melancholy countenance of my young hostess. She endeavoured to express
herself in very earnest terms to me; but I had not yet acquired a
competent knowledge of the Indian language to understand her.
As soon as the men were landed, she and the old Indian woman went up,
not without some marks of dread upon them, to an elderly Indian man,
whose remarkable surly and stern countenance was well calculated to
raise such sensations in his dependents. He seemed to be a cacique, or
chief man among them, by the airs of importance he assumed to himself,
and the deference paid him by the rest. After some little conference
passed between these Indians, and our cacique conductor, of which,
most probably, the circumstances of our history, and the occasion of
our coming here, might be the chief subject, for they fixed their
eyes constantly upon us, they applied themselves to building their
wigwams. I now understood that the two Indian women with whom I had
sojourned, were wives to this chieftain, though one was young enough to
be his daughter; and as far as I could learn, did really stand in the
different relations to him both of daughter and wife. It was easy to be
perceived that all did not go well between them at this time: either
that he was not satisfied with the answers that they returned him to
his questions, or that he suspected some misconduct on their side; for
presently after, breaking out into savage fury, he took the young one
up in his arms, and threw her with violence against the stones; but his
brutal resentment did not stop here, he beat her afterwards in a cruel
manner. I could not see this treatment of my benefactress without the
highest concern for her, and rage against the author of it; especially
as the natural jealousy of these people gave occasion to think that
it was on my account she suffered. I could hardly suppress the first
emotions of my resentment, which prompted me to return him his
barbarity in his own kind; but besides that this might have drawn upon
her fresh marks of his severity, it was neither politic, nor indeed in
my power, to have done it to any good purpose at this time.
Our cacique now made us understand that we must embark directly, in the
same canoe which brought us, and return to our companions; and that
the Indians we were about to leave, would join us in a few days, when
we should all set out in a body, in order to proceed to the northward.
In our way back, nothing very material happened; but upon our arrival,
which was the next day, we found Mr. Elliot, the surgeon, in a very bad
way; his illness had been continually increasing since we left him. Mr.
Hamilton and Mr. Campbell were almost starved, having fared very ill
since we left them: a few sea-eggs were all the subsistence they had
lived upon; and these procured by the cacique's wife, in the manner I
mentioned before. This woman was the very reverse of my hostess; and as
she found her husband was of so much consequence to us, took upon her
with much haughtiness, and treated us as dependents and slaves. He was
not more engaging in his carriage towards us; he would give no part of
what he had to spare to any but Captain Cheap, whom his interest led
him to prefer to the rest, though our wants were often greater. The
captain, on his part, contributed to keep us in this abject situation,
by approving this distinction the cacique showed to him. Had he treated
us with not quite so much distance, the cacique might have been more
regardful of our wants. The little regard and attention which our
necessitous condition drew from Captain Cheap, may be imputed likewise,
in some measure, to the effects of a mind soured by a series of crosses
and disappointments; which, indeed, had operated on us all to a great
neglect of each other, and sometimes of ourselves.
We were not suffered to be in the same wigwam with the cacique and his
wife; which, if we had had any countenance from Captain Cheap, would
not have been refused. What we had made for ourselves was in such a
bungling manner, that it scarce deserved the name even of this wretched
sort of habitation. But our untoward circumstances now found some
relief in the arrival of the Indians we waited for; who brought with
them some seal, a small portion of which fell to our share. A night
or two after they sent out some of their young men, who procured us a
quantity of a very delicate kind of birds, called shags and cormorants.
Their manner of taking these birds resembles something a sport called
bat fowling. They find out their haunts among the rocks and cliffs in
the night, when taking with them torches made of the bark of the birch
tree, which is common here, and grows to a very large size, (this bark
has a very unctuous quality, and emits a bright and clear light, and in
the northern parts of America is used frequently instead of a candle,)
they bring the boat's side as near as possible to the rocks, under the
roosting-places of these birds; then waving their lights backwards and
forwards, the birds are dazzled and confounded so as to fall into the
canoe, where they are instantly knocked on the head with a short stick
the Indians take with them for that purpose.
Seals are taken in some less frequented parts of these coasts, with
great ease; but when their haunts have been two or three times
disturbed, they soon learn to provide for their safety, by repairing to
the water upon the first alarm. This is the case with them hereabouts;
but as they frequently raise their heads above water, either to breathe
or look about them, I have seen an Indian at this interval, throw his
lance with such dexterity as to strike the animal through both its
eyes, at a great distance; and it is very seldom that they miss their
aim.
As we were wholly unacquainted with these methods of providing food
for ourselves, and were without arms and ammunition, we were driven
to the utmost straits; and found ourselves rather in worse condition
than we had been at any time before. For the Indians having now nothing
to fear from us, we found we had nothing to expect from them upon any
other motive. Accordingly, if ever they did relieve us, it was through
caprice; for at most times they would shew themselves unconcerned at
our greatest distresses. But the good Indian women, whose friendship
I had experienced before, continued, from time to time, their good
offices to me. Though I was not suffered to enter their wigwams, they
would find opportunities of throwing in my way such scraps as they
could secrete from their husbands. The obligation I was under to them
on this account was great, as the hazard they ran in conferring these
favours was little less than death. The men, unrestrained by any
laws or ties of conscience, in the management of their own families,
exercise a most despotic authority over their wives, whom they consider
in the same view as any other part of their property, and dispose of
them accordingly: even their common treatment of them is cruel; for
though the toil and hazard of procuring food lies entirely upon the
women, yet they are not suffered to touch any part of it till the
husband is satisfied; and then he assigns them their portion, which is
generally very scanty, and such as he has not a stomach for himself.
This arbitrary proceeding, with respect to their own families, is not
peculiar to this people only. I have had occasion to observe it in
more instances than this I have mentioned, among many other nations of
savages I have since seen.
These Indians are of a middling stature, well set, and very active;
and make their way among the rocks with an amazing agility. Their
feet, by this kind of exercise, contract a callosity which renders
the use of shoes quite unnecessary to them. But before I conclude the
few observations I have to make on a people so confined in all their
notions and habits, it may be expected I should say something of their
religion; but as their gross ignorance is in nothing more conspicuous,
and as we found it advisable to keep out of their way when the fits
of devotion came upon them, which is rather frantic than religious,
the reader can expect very little satisfaction on this head. Accident
has sometimes made me unavoidably a spectator of scenes I should have
chosen to have withdrawn myself from; and so far I am instructed. As
there are no fixed seasons for their religious exercises, the younger
people wait till the elders find themselves devoutly disposed; who
begin the ceremony by several deep and dismal groans, which rise
gradually to a hideous kind of singing, from which they proceed to
enthusiasm, and work themselves into a disposition that borders on
madness; for suddenly jumping up, they snatch firebrands from the fire,
put them in their mouths, and run about burning every body they come
near: at other times, it is a custom with them to wound one another
with sharp muscle-shells till they are besmeared with blood. These
orgies continue till those who preside in them foam at the mouth, grow
faint, are exhausted with fatigue, and dissolve in a profusion of
sweat. When the men drop their part in this frenzy, the women take it
up, acting over again much the same kind of wild scene, except that
they rather outdo the men in shrieks and noise. Our cacique, who had
been reclaimed from these abominations by the Spaniards, and just knew
the exterior form of crossing himself, pretended to be much offended
at these profane ceremonies, and that he would have died sooner than
have partaken of them. Among other expressions of disapprobation, he
declared that whilst the savages solemnized these horrid rites, he
never failed to hear strange and uncommon noises in the woods, and to
see frightful visions; and assured us, that the devil was the chief
actor among them upon these occasions.