Hills should be made for the culture of these, in the same manner and
at the same time as described for cucumbers, cantaloupes, etc. These
hills should be at some distance from the vines above mentioned, as
there is danger of the pollen mixing and spoiling the melons, etc.
There are some localities where the winter squashes do not do well or
are difficult of cultivation; but the small summer squashes are of
easy culture in any locality, though of finer quality on a warm sunny
slope than elsewhere. The only trouble in growing them is to protect
them from the ravages of the Striped Squash Bug while young, for which
purpose I use slug shot, dusted on the leaves early in the morning,
while the dew is still on them.
The vines should be allowed plenty of room to run, at least four feet
on every side. The vines soon cover the ground and prevent using the
cultivator; but the large leaves so shade the soil that few weeds grow,
and where they rear their heads above the vines they can be cut out
with hand hoes or pulled out after a rain, by hand.
As we can hardly use the product of more than a dozen hills, I
divide the long row across the garden into three parts, planting the
squashes at one end, watermelons in the centre, while the other end is
occupied by cucumbers, which prevents any mixing of pollen, and gives
a sufficient quantity of each fruit without disturbing the symmetry
of the garden. In gathering the squashes for table use, care must be
taken that they are not too old, or they will be tough and stringy when
cooked; the easiest way to judge them is to try them with the nail or
small stick; if it does not cut the skin freely and easily they are
too old; no push should be required to make the cut. This is also a
good test when in doubt about the proper condition of sweet corn, and
should be applied to grains near the base of the ear. No old squashes
should be allowed to remain on the vines of the summer varieties, for
if they are allowed to ripen, the vine, having fulfilled its natural
purpose, will dry up and die, while if the fruits are picked off, it
will continue to grow and produce fruit.
The winter squashes are raised in the same manner, but are more
difficult to start, as the young plants are subject to a borer which
eats them off under ground. Plenty of seed should be sown in each hill,
and as soon as you see a plant wilting or cut off, dig around its
roots with your fingers or a stick until you find and kill the borer,
otherwise, he will continue his labors on the other plants in the hill.
The plants should also have careful watching and dusting, to preserve
them from the usual insects that prey on young vines. When the plants
are about one foot in length they should be thinned out to two or three
in a hill, though the danger from borers is hardly passed yet, but to
allow them to stand too thickly after attaining this size would stunt
them and lessen the crop. The squashes should be gathered before there
is any hard frost and stored in a cool, well-aired cellar. Some of the
winter varieties are equally good for summer use before they become too
old and hard; if these are planted, the one planting will furnish fruit
for both seasons.