These are universal favorites, and too frequently are not grown by the
kitchen gardener, who labors under the idea that they must have a sandy
soil in some particularly favored section, and that they require great
skill to grow them. If a variety suited to your soil is planted and
given the same amount of attention and careful cultivation as the rest
of the garden receives, melons may be had in abundance from the first
of August till frost comes in the fall, though when the first cool
nights come they lose their fine flavor. If the garden has a southern
slope, that will be the place for the melons and other warmth-loving
vegetables; but they will do almost as well in the level field. The
rows of hills should be five feet apart and the hills at least four
feet apart in the row, to allow the vines plenty of room to run. It is
a good plan to make the hills break joint, as they will then cover
the ground to better advantage. When the line is set, a hole should be
scraped with the hoe or shovel where the hill is to stand; this should
be six inches deep and about twelve inches in diameter. Compost is
then shoveled in, two rows being done at once; two or three shovelsful
are put in each hill. The dirt thrown out in making the hole is then
carefully made into a hill over the compost by using a sharp steel
rake, care being taken to remove all stones and hard lumps of dirt. The
seed is then scattered on the top of the hill, generally from twenty
to thirty seeds being planted in each hill, that there may be an ample
supply for the insects and yet leave a good stand. They should be
thinned out gradually, extra ones being left in until they are at least
a foot in length, as the insect pests are both numerous and destructive.
The hills should not be made until it is time to plant the seed, or
they will get packed and too hard for the young roots to penetrate.
When the seed has been planted on the hill it should be covered with
about half an inch of fine soil, sifted and crumbled on with the
fingers, and the whole top patted down with the palm of the hand. The
seed should be planted as soon as the ground is thoroughly warm in
the spring and when the temperature does not fall below sixty degrees
at night. The melons will commence ripening about August 1st, and two
rows across the garden should yield from one half-bushel to one bushel
daily if the variety planted is of the small Netted Gem or Jenny Lind
type. These small, round melons, of the size of a croquet ball, are
very prolific, and if carefully grown, the quality is very fine. Some
prefer the larger melons, which fill the basket more quickly, but in
my experience the small ones have been so much more prolific that the
yield has been almost double in bulk on the same amount of ground. The
melon rows should be gone over early every morning while ripening, as
they should not be allowed to become yellow on the vines. The quality
deteriorates very rapidly when allowed to ripen in the hot sun, so
that they should be picked while still green. The right stage for
picking can readily be told by examining the point where the stem joins
the melon; as soon as the stem begins to crack away from the melon
slightly, or when the little drops of red juice form round the base of
the stem, it is time to pick the melon. When picked, they should be put
in a cool cellar or spring house until wanted for the table.
Seed may be saved from the largest and finest-flavored melons; but if
your garden is on heavy soil, or if two or three varieties are grown
near together, it is best to procure fresh seed from some melon-growing
district every year.
The ground between the hills should be cultivated frequently, as
long as it can be done without interfering with the vine; the soil
in the hills should be kept loose and drawn up around the vines with
the hoe. When the vines have grown too long to allow the passage of
the cultivator, the patch can be kept clean by pulling out the large
weeds by hand, which can be done very quickly after a good rain. The
dense shade caused by the luxuriant vines will cause the small and
low-growing weeds to rot off. While the vines are still small, it will
be necessary to dust them every few mornings with road dust, soot,
plaster or slug shot, to destroy the flies and striped bugs that infest
them. When healthy young vines suddenly wilt and droop in the hot sun
without apparent cause, dig around the root of the plant with the
fingers or a stick until the grub is found which has cut the plant off
underground. He should be searched for and “made an example of” as soon
as the first vine is discovered to be flagging, or he will proceed to
eat the whole hill.