It is common in most gardens to plant blackberries, raspberries,
currants, etc., around the fences. This is not only a waste of half
the fruit, as it can only be borne on one side, but involves much
needless labor in keeping the plants trimmed and worked, and unless
hoed frequently the plot becomes a harbor for weeds. The only advantage
in so planting is the protection the fence affords in winter, as it
catches the flying leaves and weeds in the fall, and these with the
shade afforded by the fence and drifted snow make a natural protection
for the roots and canes. It is not the severity of the frost which
determines the hardiness of a plant, so much as its ability to
withstand freezing and thawing in rapid succession. For this reason I
would have the small fruits planted at the north side of the garden,
especially if it be the highest part, and if there is some kind of
wind-break or protection, as this will cause the snow to drift and
lie longer, making a natural covering, while the slope will drain the
surface water quickly away, so that it does not form hard ice around
the crowns.
If it were possible, I would prefer to have no fence around the
garden, as it makes it much easier to keep clean. A fence is always
a nuisance and waste of ground unless absolutely necessary; but if a
fence is needed, have one that will not only keep out stock, but also
the gardener’s most aggravating enemy, the poultry. A scratching hen
seems to have an instinct which tells her as soon as the seed has been
planted, and which are the hills containing the choicest varieties.
In plowing the ground in the early spring, I think it is best not
to plow more than is needed for the first planting, and to plow the
remainder somewhat later, when it has become more dry and friable, as
it will not then become packed and hard again by the heavy spring
rains. For the first planting the ground should be plowed and planted
as soon as it can be got in order; the hardier vegetables will even
stand a light frost, and while adapting their growth to the weather,
will be ready to take advantage of the first warm spring days. I shall
speak of the time of planting and sowing in the chapters devoted to the
separate treatment of the different vegetables.
The following simple test will be of use to the novice in determining
not only when to plow, but also when to cultivate and hoe the ground.
Take a portion of the soil in the hand and try to press it into a
ball; if it makes a ball and sticks to the hand it is too wet, while
if it crushes hard it is too dry. In both cases, if worked in this
condition, it will be left in a hard and lumpy state, that will take a
long time to bring into good order. To be in good working condition the
soil should crumble easily and finely in the hand, and should leave no
dirt adhering to the fingers. It will not only give the best results
when worked in this state, but it can also be done in half the time.
Sometimes we cannot wait until the ground is in the very best order,
as in a drought in summer, when it is needed for the second crop. In
such a case it must be brought into as fine condition as possible
by repeated harrowing and rolling; the latter is an operation too
frequently neglected in the ordinary garden; every farmer knows the
value of having the soil firmly compacted round the fresh-sown grain,
and it is of equal value in every variety of seed sown in the garden.
Where there is not room for the roller to be used after sowing a row,
I always have it pressed in by the broad sole of the gardener’s boot,
which nature usually provides shall be of generous size. It is even
more important that the soil should be firmly pressed around the roots
of newly-set plants, as if this is not done the first heavy rain uses
the roots as water courses, and deprived of contact with the soil, the
roots rot off and the plants are stunted or die.
Among the first things to be planted in the spring are the small
fruits, such as grapes, blackberries, raspberries, currants,
strawberries, etc. These should all be in the kitchen garden, and
with them the rhubarb and asparagus beds, where they can and will be
cultivated as well as the vegetables, the soil kept loose and free from
weeds, that they may devote their energies to making strong canes and
bearing fine fruit, instead of wasting their strength in a continuous
battle for life with grass and weeds, leaving them an easy prey to
insects and disease. Those who have never given them this thorough
cultivation will be surprised at the large crops and superior quality
of the fruit that can be raised under these favorable circumstances.
These fruits, when once planted, with the exception of strawberries,
last for many years if well manured, trimmed and cultivated. They
should all be at one side of the garden, where they will not be in
the way of working the garden with the large plow in the spring and
fall, but should have their own plowing with the small plow, two to
four inches in depth, spring and fall. In the fall plowing the furrows
should be turned toward the row, which will bank them up slightly and
afford additional protection through the winter. In the spring this
ridge can be worked down level again with the plow and cultivator, the
dirt from around the crowns being drawn away with an ordinary hand hoe.
In planting the rows in the spring, the width of the cultivator and
swingle tree must be taken into account. If the ground has been heavily
manured the vegetables can be planted as closely as will admit of
working, and allowing a good supply of light and air to the roots,
excepting melons, and other vines, which should have plenty of room
in which to spread and sun themselves. Thus, peas, beets, bush beans,
etc., can be sowed as closely as two and one-half feet apart, while
corn, pole beans, etc., which grow as high as the horse’s sides and the
cultivator handles, should have the rows four or four and one-half feet
apart, not only to allow of working but to admit of the sunshine and
air penetrating to the roots.