CHAPTER XVII.

EXPLORATIONS ALONG THE AMERICAN COAST.--STELLER'S CENSURE OF BERING

FOR UNDUE HASTE.--BERING DEFENDED.--DALL, THE AMERICAN WRITER,

REPRIMANDED.--THE RETURN VOYAGE.

It is by no means an easy matter to form an unbiased opinion of

Bering's stay off Kayak Island. Steller is about our only authority,

but just at the point where it is most difficult to supplement his

account, he gives vent to most violent accusations against the

management of the expedition from a scientific standpoint. On the 16th

of July, when land was first seen, he says: "One can easily imagine

how happy all were to see land. No one failed to congratulate Bering,

as chief of the expedition, to whom above all others the honor of

discovery belonged. Bering, however, heard all this, not only with

great indifference, but, looking toward land, he even shrugged his

shoulders in the presence of all on board." Steller adds that on

account of this conduct charges might have been preferred against him

in St. Petersburg, had he lived.

As Bering during the first few succeeding days did not make any

preparations for a scientific exploration of the country, as he even

tried, according to Steller's assurance, to dissuade the latter from

making the island a visit, and as Steller only through a series of

oaths and threats (for thus p. 30 must undoubtedly be interpreted)

could obtain permission to make, without help or even a guard for

protection, a short stay on the island, his anger grew to rage, which

reached its culmination on the following morning when Bering suddenly

gave orders that the St. Peter should leave the island. "The only

reason for this," he says, "was stupid obstinacy, fear of a handful

of natives, and pusillanimous homesickness. For ten years Bering had

equipped himself for this great enterprise; the explorations lasted

ten hours!" Elsewhere he says derisively that they had gone to the New

World "simply to bring American water to Asia."

These accusations must seem very serious to every modern reader.

Unfortunately for Bering, his second voyage is of interest principally

from the standpoint of natural history. It is especially naturalists

that have studied it. They are predisposed to uphold Steller. Hence

his account threatens wholly to undermine Bering's reputation, and

as a matter of course, W. H. Dall, in discussing this subject, finds

opportunity to heap abuse upon Bering. He says: "On the 18th of July,

Bering saw land. On the 20th he anchored under an island. Between

two capes, which he called St. Elias and St. Hermogenes, was a bay

where two boats were sent for water and to reconnoitre. * * * With

characteristic imbecility, Bering resolved to put to sea again on the

next day, the 21st of July. Sailing to the northward, the commander

was confused among the various islands, and sailed hither and thither,

occasionally landing, but making no explorations, and showing his total

incapacity for the position he occupied. He took to his bed, and

Lieutenant Waxel assumed charge of the vessel."[81]

This is not writing history. It is only a series of errors and

incivilities. It was _not_ the 18th of July that Bering first saw land.

He did _not_ sail north from Kayak, but southwest, and hence could not

have lost his course among islands, for here there are no islands. Nor

did he sail hither and thither, but kept the course that had been laid

out, and charted the coasts he saw in this course. The most ridiculous

part of this is what this nautical author tells of the bay between

Cape St. Elias and Cape St. Hermogenes (Marmot Island off the coast of

Kadiak Island), for these points are farther apart than Copenhagen and

Bremen. If, according to this writer, Bering was unpardonably stupid,

he must have been, on the other hand, astonishingly "far-sighted."

After these statements it will surprise no one that this author

considers illness a kind of crime, and blames a patient, sixty years of

age, suffering with the scurvy, for taking to his bed! If Mr. Dall had

taken the trouble to study the Bering literature to which he himself

refers in his bibliography of Alaska, he would have been in a position

to pass an independent opinion of the navigator, and would certainly

have escaped making this series of stupid statements. His words now

simply serve to show how difficult it is to eradicate prejudice,

and how tenacious of life a false or biased judgment can be. Death

prevented Bering from defending and explaining his conduct. No one has

since that time sought to render him justice. I therefore consider it

my duty--even if I should seem to be yielding to the biographer's

besetting sin--to produce everything that can be said in Bering's

defense.

In the first place, then, it must be remembered that on the 21st of

July Bering had provisions left for no more than three months, and

that these were not good and wholesome. His crew, and he himself,

were already suffering from scurvy to such an extent that two weeks

later one-third of them were on the sick-list. Furthermore, he was

over fifty-six degrees of longitude from his nearest port of refuge,

with a crew but little accustomed to the sea. The American coast in

that latitude was not, according to Bering's judgment, nor is it

according to our present knowledge, in any way a fit place to winter,

and besides, he knew neither the sea nor its islands and depths, its

currents and prevailing winds. All this could not but urge him to

make no delay. And, in fact, Steller himself expressly says that it

was a series of such considerations that determined Bering's conduct.

"Pusillanimous homesickness" can scarcely have had any influence on a

man who from his youth had roamed about in the world and lived half a

generation in the wilds of Siberia. "The good Commander," thus Steller

expresses himself, "was far superior to all the other officers in

divining the future, and in the cabin he once said to myself and Mr.

Plenisner: 'We think now that we have found everything, and many are

pregnant with great expectations; but they do not consider where we

have landed, how far we are from home, and what yet may befall us. Who

knows but what we may meet trade winds that will prevent our return? We

are unacquainted with the country, and are unprovided with provisions

for wintering here.'"

It must be conceded that his position was one fraught with

difficulties. At this point there are two things which Steller

either has not correctly understood, or suppresses. According to

his instructions, Bering was authorized to spend two years and make

two voyages in the discovery of America, and to undertake another

expedition afterwards with new preparations and equipments. And in his

explanations to the crew he calls special attention to this point.

Under these circumstances it would not have been right in him to

assume any more risks than absolutely necessary. But here again the

old opposition between Bering's nautico-geographical and Steller's

physico-geographical interests breaks out. As a discoverer of the old

school Bering's principal object was to determine some elementary

geographical facts: namely, the distribution of land and water along

the new coast, and hence he left Kayak Island, not to reach Avacha

as soon as possible, but to follow the coast of the newly discovered

country toward the west and north. All authorities agree on this

point. It was illness and the Aliaska peninsula, projecting so far

into the ocean as it does, that prevented him from sailing up toward

latitude 65°, his real goal. Even Steller testifies to this, and

although he repeats his former accusations against Bering, it does

not signify anything, as he was excluded from the councils and was

obliged to guess at what was adopted. His accusations are especially

insignificant from the fact that he definitely contradicts himself on

this point, for later on in his narrative he says that not until the

11th of August was it resolved, on account of the approaching autumn

and the great distance from home, to start immediately on the return

voyage to Kamchatka. That is to say, they had not then made a start.

Until the 11th of August, for three weeks after their departure from

Kayak, Bering pursued his task of nautical discovery along the new

coast, and it would seem that he can be blamed for nothing more than

considering this work of the expedition more important than that of the

physico-geographical investigation which Steller represented. This was

but natural. It was merely accidental that Steller accompanied Bering,

and through him the expedition received a modern cast, which was not

at all designed, and which Bering desired to make use of only under

favorable circumstances. We may regret his haste, and we may especially

regret the fact that so keen and clever a naturalist as Steller did

not get an opportunity to explore the regions west of Mount St. Elias

before European trade and white adventurers put in an appearance; but

it hardly seems a question of doubt whether anyone for that reason has

a right to make accusations against the chief of the expedition.

It was very early on the morning of July 21 that the chief suddenly,

and contrary to his custom, appeared on deck and gave the command to

weigh anchor and stand out to sea. In doing this he set aside his

instructions from headquarters to act in accordance with the ship's

council. He acted as a sovereign chief, and notwithstanding the fact

that both of his lieutenants thought it wrong to leave the newly

discovered coast without an adequate supply of water, he overruled all

objections and informed them that he assumed all responsibility for

his conduct. He was convinced of the entire necessity of it, he said,

and thought it unsafe to remain longer in this exposed anchorage. Time

did not permit him to go in search of the harbor found by Khitroff on

the day previous, and there was moreover a seaward breeze. One fourth

of the water-casks remained unfilled.

Before a strong east wind, the St. Peter on that day made fifty miles

on a southwesterly course. During the two succeeding days, he continued

in this general direction. It was misty, and the coast was invisible,

but the sounding-line continued to show a depth of from forty to fifty

fathoms. In a council, concerning the deliberations of which Steller

has a very confused and incorrect account, it was decided, on July 25,

to sail slowly towards Petropavlovsk and, at intervals as wind and

weather permitted, to head for the north and west, in order to explore

the coast they had left.

They continued on their southwesterly course, and on the next morning,

July 26, they were off the Kadiak archipelago. In a latitude of

66° 30', and about sixteen miles toward the north, they saw a high

and projecting point, which Bering called St. Hermogenes, in honor

of the patron saint of the day. He thought that this point was a

continuation of the continent they had left behind them, and as such

it is represented on both Müller's and Krasilnikoff's manuscript

maps in the archives of the Admiralty. On his third voyage, Cook

explored the Kadiak group, which he too had assumed to be a part

of the mainland. He now found that Bering's promontory was a small

island east of Afognak, but out of respect for Bering, he retained the

original name. Krusenstern also calls it St. Hermogenes Island, but

later the Russians changed it to Euratchey Island, on account of the

great number of marmots there, and since the United. States came into

possession of it, the name has been translated, and it is now known as

Marmot Island.[82] Steller has not a single word in his diary about

St. Hermogenes, and besides, his account at this point is full of

inaccuracies.

"Consequently, until July 26," he says, "we sailed along the coast, as

these gentlemen thought it was necessary to follow it, while it would

have been sufficient, at intervals of a hundred versts, to have sailed

a degree or two toward the north." He thus blames them for not having

followed the method which at about that time they had agreed upon, and

later did follow. His story of their having, for the first five days,

sailed along the coast, simply proves, in connection with a series of

other incidents in his work, that things were not entered in his diary

daily, but written down later from memory; hence its value as proof is

considerably diminished.

Along the southeastern coast of Kadiak the voyage was very dangerous.

The average depth was twenty-five fathoms; the water was very roily,

the weather heavy with fog and rain, and the wind violent. Not until

the 31st of July was the weather clear enough for an observation, when

they found themselves in a latitude of 54° 49', and had passed the

Kadiak archipelago.

In accordance with the plan adopted, they here veered to the northwest

to seek the mainland for the purpose of determining its trend. On

the night of August 1 (and 2), they suddenly approached land, having

only four fathoms of water below the keel. There was a heavy fog,

no wind, and a swift current, but they succeeded in shifting about

and getting out into eighteen fathoms of water, where they anchored

to await daybreak. In the morning, at eight o'clock, a small island

was seen at a distance of four miles. It was three miles long, with

an east to west trend. A long reef extended out into the sea from

the eastern point, seen by them in a direction E. S. E. by E. In the

evening they weighed anchor, having a heavy fog, and on the next

morning, the island was seen at a distance of seven geographical miles

toward the south. Its latitude was calculated as 55° 32', but as all

of Bering's determinations of latitude on his return voyage from

America show an error of from 30' to 45' less than the true latitude,

it must be concluded that the island was in latitude 56° and some

minutes. He called the island St. Stephen from the calendar day, but

his crew or lieutenants must have called it Foggy Island (Tumannoi),

as even Krasilnikoff's manuscript map, in the possession of the

Admiralty, has this name. Later the cartography of this region became

considerably confused. The name St. Stephen disappeared. Cook called

another island Fog Island, while it became customary to consider the

island discovered by Bering as identical with Ukamok (Chirikoff Island,

Vancouver's Island), where the Russians had a colony, and thus the

island itself was finally lost to geography. Notwithstanding the fact

that Admiral Krusenstern, in a clever essay, has given an able review

of the literature pertaining to this question, and has shown that where

Bering saw St. Stephen, Cook, Sarycheff, and Vancouver likewise saw an

island, different from Ukamok, and regardless of the fact that for

these reasons he restored St. Stephen on his map, Lieutenant Sokoloff,

who most recently, in Russian literature, has treated Bering's voyage

to America, has wholly disregarded Krusenstern's essay, and says

that St. Stephen is identical with Ukamok. Sokoloff's essay is very

superficial, and, compared with Krusenstern's weighty reasons, is based

on mere supposition. But, although the map of the North Pacific, in

the Russian Admiralty (1844), has a Tumannoi Island (that is, Foggy

Island, St. Stephen) somewhat northeast of Ukamok, it must be admitted

that, until the United States undertakes a new and careful survey of

the Aliaska peninsula and its southern surroundings, this question

can not be thoroughly decided, probable as it may be that Bering and

Krusenstern are both right.

August 3, the voyage was continued toward the northwest. In a latitude

of 56° (according to Steller) they saw the high snow-capped mountain

peaks of the Aliaska peninsula in a direction N. N. W. by W., but on

account of stormy and foggy weather they sought, with an easterly wind,

to get back into their main course. Thus they reached, August 4, the

Jefdokjejefski Islands in a direction S. S. E. 3/4 by E., at a distance

of twenty miles from 55° 45' N. These form a group of seven high and

rocky islands, which on Russian maps still bears the same name, but in

West Europe this name has been displaced, and they are usually called

the Semidi, or Semidin, Islands, the name of the largest of the group.

On August 7, they found themselves south of the Jefdokjejefski Islands.

But now misfortunes began to pour in upon them. They encountered

adverse winds which continued with but few interruptions during the

succeeding months. The St. Peter was tossed about on the turbulent

and unfamiliar waters of the Aleutian archipelago, where the crew

experienced an adventure so fraught with suffering and dire events

that it is quite beyond compare in the history of discoveries. At the

same time, the scurvy got the upper hand. Bering had a severe attack

which rendered him unfit for service. With his illness the bonds of

discipline were relaxed. Under these circumstances there was called,

on the 10th of August, an extraordinary council, in which all the

officers participated. At this meeting it was finally decided to give

up the charting of the American coast, and immediately start out upon

the direct route homeward on parallel 52°, the latitude of Avacha. The

whole crew, from the highest to the lowest, signed this resolution.

The facts taken into consideration were that September had been fixed

as the extreme limit of time within which to return home, and that

they were then in the middle of August. Avacha was at least 1600 miles

distant, autumn was at hand with dark nights and stormy weather, and

sixteen of the crew were already sick with the scurvy.

With a strong head-wind, in raw and foggy weather, and now and then

overtaken by fierce storms, they worked their way slowly along

until the 27th of August. The condition of affairs on board had

grown continually worse, when it was finally announced that through

carelessness and irregularity the supply of water had been reduced to

twenty-five casks, a quantity that could not possibly suffice for

the 1200 miles which, according to their calculations, yet remained.

Hence it was necessary once more to find land to take in water, and

on the 27th the St. Peter's prow was again headed for Aliaska. They

sailed north one degree and a half, and after a lapse of three days

they reached a multitude of high islands, behind which the coast of the

mainland arose in the distance.

August 30, the St. Peter lay at anchor off the Shumagins, a group of

thirteen treeless, barren, and rocky islands near the coast of Aliaska.

The journal gives their situation as latitude 54° 48' N. and longitude

35° 30' E. from Avacha. While the latitude as here determined has the

usual error, referred to several times before, the longitude has an

error of 6-1/2°. Among these islands the first death on board occurred.

It was the sailor Shumagin, who, on the 30th, died in the hands of

his mates as they were taking him ashore. The islands were named in

honor of him. On the whole the situation was most deplorable. Bering

had fallen away so much in his illness that he could not stand, and

the others that were sick were carried ashore, and lay scattered along

the coast, giving this a very sad and sorrowful aspect. Confusion and

uncertainty grew apace, as those in command could not maintain their

authority. Waxel and Khitroff, the highest in command, bandied words,

whereas the situation demanded firmness and vigor. The only one that

preserved any manner of self-possession and forethought was Steller.

He immediately went ashore, examined the vegetation of the island,

and collected a large number of anti-scorbutic plants, especially

scurvy-grass and berries, with which, in the course of a week, he

succeeded in restoring Bering to sufficient strength to be able to use

his limbs. Through the use of the same remedies the other sufferers

were relieved. But Steller thought also of the future. The medicine

chest contained "plasters and salves for half an army," but only

extremely few real medicines, and hence he suggested to Lieut. Waxel,

who was then in command, that he send a number of sailors ashore to

gather anti-scorbutic plants, but this excellent and timely advice was

rejected.

Furthermore, Steller used all his influence to procure good water. He

went ashore with the sailors for this purpose, and as they began to dip

water from the first pool they found, one, too, which was connected

with the sea during high tide, he directed them to fresh springs a

little farther in the interior, but the crew sent some samples on

board, and from there came the report that the water was good enough.

Thus it was that a new cause of disease--in spite of Steller's

protestations--was added to all the others. The water was brackish, and

on standing in the casks became unfit for use.

On the whole the stay at the Shumagins, which was unnecessarily

prolonged, was very unfortunate. The St. Peter lay at anchor south of

them in a very exposed position. On the evening of August 29, a fire

was seen on one of the islands, and on this account, Khitroff wished to

explore them more thoroughly, although Waxel firmly opposed releasing

both of the ship's boats under the present dangerous circumstances.

By applying to Bering, who was in the cabin, and hardly understood

the situation, Khitroff had his way, and left the ship with the yawl

and five men. He was gone four days, during which time the St. Peter

was forced to lie at anchor, while a favorable east wind might have

carried them several hundred miles toward home. The yawl was dashed to

pieces off one of the neighboring islands, and no more came from the

expedition than that Lieutenant Waxel, under great difficulty, found

it necessary to rescue the six shipwrecked adventurers. Moreover,

they experienced a somewhat uninteresting clash with the Innuit

(Esquimo)[83] inhabitants of the Aliaska peninsula, of which Müller and

Steller both give a detailed account.

FOOTNOTES:

[81] Note 62.

[82] Note 63.

[83] For a full description of these people see H. H. Bancroft, Native

Races, Vol. I.--TR.

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