The extremities are tendinous, without fat and without flesh; and are
therefore viscid, contain little nourishment, and are laxative of the
belly, except those of birds owing to their great dryness. The snout and
ears are gristly and indigestible. The tongue is spongy, full of blood,
and gives little nourishment. The glands are sweet and friable; and those
of the breast are sweeter than the others, and, in particular, those of
swine which are giving milk. These are no less nutritious than the flesh.
The kidneys and testicles are strong-smelled and indigestible, but those
of cocks fed upon grain are sweet, and supply a good nourishment to the
body; whereas those of bulls, buck-goats, and rams are indigestible, and
contain bad juices. The brain produces phlegm, thick and bad chyme, is
difficult to evacuate and digest, injurious to the stomach, and occasions
nausea; but when properly digested it is sufficiently nutritious.
The marrow is oily and sweeter than the brain, but in other respects
resembles it. Fat and suet contain little nourishment, and are hurtful
to the stomach. The heart and liver contain thick juices, are difficult
to digest and evacuate. But the liver of swine is better. The spleen
contains bad juices, and occasions melancholic humours. The lungs are
more digestible as being spongy, but contain less nourishment and form
phlegm. The stomach, womb, and intestines are hard, indigestible, and
form phlegm. In general, the nourishment from wild animals is drier and
less excrementitious than that from tame. All blood is of difficult
digestion, especially the thick and melancholic, as is that of oxen; but
that of hares is esteemed very delicious, and many are in the practice of
boiling it with the liver, and some with the other viscera. Some eat also
that of young swine; and even Homer was aware that the blood of goats is
eaten by certain people.
* * * * *
COMMENTARY. Since our author has stated very distinctly the characters of
the parts of animals (having abridged the fuller account of Galen), it
will serve no purpose for us to enlarge upon every one of these articles;
and, therefore, we shall be content with making a few cursory remarks.
For further information, see Galen (de Alim. Facult. and de Euchym.);
Oribasius (Med. Coll. v); Aëtius (ii); Rhases (ad Mansor. iii, 11); Haly
Abbas (Theor. v, 22); Serapion (de Simpl. ex Animal.)
Galen remarks that, as some rendered the liver of swine sweet, by feeding
them upon dried figs, so he knew some persons who were in the practice
of preparing the livers of geese in like manner, by feeding them upon
milk, by which means they were rendered not only delicious, but also
very nutritious, wholesome, digestible, and not difficult to evacuate.
Oribasius and Haly Abbas speak of it in much the same terms; but Haly
adds that much of it ought not to be eaten at once, as it is slowly
digested. Athenæus speaks of it as a delicacy in great request at Rome.
(Deipnos. ix, 32). The liver of a white goose fed upon fatty figs is
one of the delicacies mentioned by Horace as having been presented at
the supper of Nasidienus. (Sat. ii, 8.) See also Juvenal (v, 114), and
Persius (vi, 7.) If we may believe Martial, the liver, in these cases,
sometimes grew to such a size as to surpass the body of the animal.
(Epigr. xiii, 58.) We are informed by Pliny, that it was disputed to
whom the culinary art was indebted for the discovery of this exquisite
delicacy. (H. N. x, 21.)
Galen states that all fat and suet are of an oily nature, and that they
ought rather to be used as condiments than as articles of food. Serapion
gives the most circumstantial account of the qualities of these animal
oils.
The vulva or womb of a sow was esteemed an exquisite delicacy by the
Romans. There were three kinds of it—that is to say, it was taken in
three different states of the animal. The first, called ejectitia, was
procured by forcing the animal to part with its young. The second, or
porcaria, was the womb of the animal, taken after it had littered. The
third, called sterilis, was the womb of a sow that had never been with
young. This last is ranked by Celsus among those things which are useful
to the stomach. See Plutarch (de Esu Carnium); Pliny (Hist. Nat. xi, 37.)
Simeon Seth, however, condemns it as indigestible. (See Not. Bogdani.)