SEACOMBE,
_December_.
1
We hired a drosky--one of the little light landaus that they use with a
single horse in this hilly district--and thus we came down from the
station. On the box were the coachman (grinning), a cabin trunk, a
portmanteau, a gaping gladstone bag, and a rug packed with sweaters and
boots. On the front seat, a large parcel of books, a typewriter, a
dispatch case, a grubby moon-faced little friend of Tommy's, Tommy
himself, and Jimmy. On the back seat, Straighty, Dane and myself. The
small boy stood up on the seat, and Dane squatting on his haunches,
overtopped us all.
Down the hill we drove, swerving, wobbling, laughing--a May party in
leafless winter. Dane, in his efforts to lick the children's faces,
tumbled off his perch. We helped him back to his seat amid a chorus of
happy screams. The grubby boy was just too astonished to cry, just too
proud of travelling in a carriage. He screwed up his face--and
unscrewed it again. Every now and then Tommy sat back as far as he
could from the disorder, the collection of jerking arms and legs, in
order to adjust the Plymouth spectacles, of which he is so proud, on
his small pug nose. As we passed the cross-roads, Straighty was trying
to snatch a kiss. While we drove along the Front, the children waved
their hands over the sides of the drosky, and shouted with delight.
'Twas a Bacchanal with laughter for wine. The Square turned out to
witness our arrival. "Her's come!" the kiddies cried. Dane leapt out
first, found a rabbit's head and bolted it whole. The rest of us
scrambled out. The luggage was piled up in the passage. Hastening in
his stockinged feet (he had been putting away an hour) to say that he
was on the point of coming up to station, Tony bruised a toe and barked
a shin. But it was no time to be savage. I wonder where else the two
shillings I paid for the drosky would have purchased so much delight.
Or rather, the delight was in ourselves, in the children; the two
shillings served only to unlock it.
[Sidenote: _CHILDREN_]
What precisely there is of difference between these children and those
of the middle and upper classes has always puzzled me. That there is a
difference I feel certain. A few years ago, when I had so much to do
with the boys and girls of a high school, they liked me pretty well, I
think, and trusted me, but they did not take to me, nor I very greatly
to them. They went about their business, and I about mine. If I invited
them for a walk, they came gladly, not because it was a walk with me,
but because I knew of interesting muddy places, and where to find
strange things. Their manners to me were always good: good manners
smoothed our intercourse. But in no sense were our lives interwoven. We
were side-shows, the one to the other. I was content that it should be
so, and they were too.
Here, on the other hand, my difficulty is to get rid of the children
when I wish to go out by myself. They follow me out to the Front, and
meet me there when I return, running towards me with shouting and arms
upraised, tumbling over their own toes, and taking me home as if I were
a huge pet dog of theirs. "Where be yu going?" they ask, and, "Where yu
been?" Jimmy regards me as a fixture. "When yu goes away for two or
dree days," he says, "I'll write to 'ee, like Dad du." I cross the
Square, and some child, lolling over the board across a doorway, laughs
to me shrilly and waves its arms. If by taking thought, I could send
such a glow to the hearts of those I love, as that child, without
thinking, sends to mine.... But I cannot. I can only wave a hand back
to the child, and be thankful and full-hearted. Often enough I wish I
could have a piano and find out whether my fingers will still play
Chopin, Beethoven, and Bach; often I hanker after a sight of a certain
picture or a certain statue in the Louvre or Luxembourg, for a concert,
a theatre, a right-down good argument on some intellectual point, or
for the books I want to read and never shall. Yet, all in all, I am
never sorry for long. This children's babble and laughter, these
simple, commonplace, wonderful affections, are a hundred times worth
everything I miss.
It is not that I buy the children bananas or give them an infrequent
ha'penny. When bananas and ha'pence are scarce, their love is no less.
It is not that I am always good-tempered and jolly. Sometimes I snap
unmercifully, so that they look at me with scared, inquiring eyes. It
is not that they are always well-behaved. Frequently they are very
naughty indeed. The causes of our sympathy lie deeper.
They are more naive than the children who are in process of being
well-educated; more independent and also more dependent. They feel more
keenly any separation from those they love; they cry lustily if their
mother disappears only for an hour or two; and nevertheless they can
fend for themselves out and about as children more carefully nurtured
could never do. Less able to travel by themselves, they do travel
alone, and in the end quite as successfully. They make more mistakes
and retrieve them better. Affection with them more rapidly and frankly
translates itself into action. They laugh quickly, cry quickly, swear
quickly. "Yu'm a fule!" they rap out without a moment's hesitation; and
I suppose I am, else they wouldn't want to say so. Perhaps I overvalue
the physical manifestations of love, but if a child will take my hand,
or climb upon my knee, or kiss me unawares, then to certainty of its
affection is added a greater contentment and a deeper faith. The peace
of a child that sleeps upon one's shoulder, is given also to oneself.
The appurtenances of love mean much to me; nearness, warmth, caresses.
But I cannot make the advances; I was bred in a different school where,
though frankness was encouraged, _naivete_ was repressed; and I am the
more grateful to these children for taking me in hand--for being able
to do so.
[Sidenote: _MANNERS_]
Tommy has returned from the Plymouth Eye Infirmary much quietened down
in many respects and, as most people would say, much better mannered.
He is neater and a better listener to conversation. He puts his shoes
under the table, does not throw them. But he has brought back also some
of the nurses' exclamations of surprise--"Oh, I say!" "Not I!" "You
don't say so!" "What idiocy!" and the like. No doubt those expressions
sounded quite proper among the nurses, but on Tommy's lips they seem
curiously more vulgar than his natural and rougher expletives. It is,
besides, as if one were eavesdropping outside the nurses' common room.
Much of the charm of these children, and of the grown-ups too, lies in
the fact that, apart from a few points on which etiquette is very
strict, they have no manners. I don't mean that they are bad-mannered;
quite the contrary; what I mean is that their manners are not codified.
Having no rules for behaviour under various circumstances, they must on
each occasion act according to their kindliness and desire to please,
or the reverse. They must go back to the first principles of manners.
What they are, that they appear. What they feel at the moment, that
they show. The kind man or child is kindly; the brutal or spiteful by
nature are brutal or spiteful in manner. Elsewhere, among people of
breeding, manners make the man--and hide him. Here, the man makes his
own manners, and in so doing still further reveals himself.
I have known a professional man who was rather well-spoken of for his
good manners, fail lamentably so soon as he found himself in
surroundings not his own. His code of manners did not apply there, and
outside his code he had no manners. He was excessively rude. He showed
at once that his customary good manners were founded on rules well
learnt, and not on any real consideration for other people's feelings.
The incredible impertinence of clergymen and district visitors
furnishes plenty of cases in point. Their manners, no doubt, are pretty
good among themselves. Yet it is a common saying here, "What chake they
gentry've got!" A 'district lady' entered Mrs Stidson's cottage without
knock or warning, just when Mrs Stidson was cleaning up and wanted no
visitors of any sort. "What's the matter with your eye?" asked the
district lady. Mrs Stidson refused to answer. ("Untidy, intractable
woman!") But a neighbour upspoke and said, "Tis her husband, mam, as
have give'd her a black eye." At which the district lady exclaimed, "My
good woman, why don't you leave him. You _ought_ to leave him--at
once!" Mrs Stidson has a number of young children.
[Sidenote: _TONY'S FOOT IN IT_]
It might have been expected, on the other hand, when Tony and myself
went on holiday up-country, stayed at a largish much-upholstered hotel,
and dined out several times as he had never done before, that he would
have been like a fish out of water, very awkward, and would have
committed a number of bad _faux pas_. Nothing of the sort. He was
nervous, certainly, and the numerous knives, forks and glasses somewhat
confused him at first. But Tony's good manners are not codified. He is
sensitive, kindly, desirous of pleasing, quick to observe. On that
basis, he invented for himself, according to the occasion, the manners
he had not been taught. At the same time he remained himself. And he
was a complete success. Nobody had any reason to blush on Tony's
behalf. Except once; when he remarked to some ladies after dinner that
he found Londoners very nice and free-like; that a pretty young lady
had stopped him in the Strand the evening before, and had called him
Percy; that he hadn't had time to tell her she'd made a mistake, and
that, in fact, he might have knowed her tu Seacombe, only he didn't
recollect.
There was a bad pause.
Tony doesn't think ill of anybody without cause. _Honi soit qui mal y
pense_ might very well be _his_ motto.
2
News has come along from Plymouth that the boats there have fallen in
with large shoals of herring. The air here has since been charged with
excitement--the excitement of men who earn their livelihood by gambling
with the sea. The drifters have fitted out. Most of the boats are up
over--lying on the sea wall--but a few days ago many busy blue men slid
the big brown drifters down their shoots to the beach. Looking along,
one saw a couple of men standing in each drifter and, with the
leisurely haste of seamen, drawing in their nets. It gave a peculiar
savour, a hopeful animation, to the blank wintry sea. It was as if the
spring had come to us human beings prematurely, before it was ready to
seize on nature.
[Sidenote: _ON THE CLIFFS_]
Yesterday afternoon I felt too unwell to lend a hand in shoving off the
boats. So I climbed to the top of the East Cliff. The air was cool and
still--so still that all the Seacombe smoke hung in the valley and
drifted slowly to seawards and faded there. While the sun was setting
behind a bank of sulky dull clouds, some woolpacks, faintly outlined in
white against the grey, rose almost imperceptibly in the western sky.
Everything, the sea itself, seemed very dry. Nothing moved on the
cliffs, except some small birds which flittered homelessly among the
black and twisted burnt gorse. They were very tiny and pitiful against,
or indeed amid, the solemn gathering of the great slow clouds. On
looking down from the edge of the cliff, a slight mistiness of the air
gave one the impression that there was, lying level above the sea, a
sheet of glass that dulled the sound of the water yet allowed one to
discern every half-formed ripple, and even the purple of the rocks
beneath. Five hundred feet below and a quarter of a mile out, were
three boats. They also, like the birds, seemed pitifully tiny. But,
unlike the birds, they did not seem purposeless. It was evident they
were moving, though one could not see rowers, oars, or splashes, for
they progressed in short jumps and above the dulled rattle of a billow
breaking on the pebbles, the faint click-thud of oars between
thole-pins was plainly audible. I had an odd fancy that the six men
were rowing through immensity, into eternity, to meet God; and that
they would so continue rowing, eternally.
This morning, very early, the crackle of burning wood in the kitchen
fireplace awoke me. Then I heard the sea roaring; then Tony's bare feet
on the stairs. "Wind's backed an' come on to blow," he said. "They've
a-had to hard up an' urn for it. Two on 'em's in, an' one have a-losted
two nets. I told 'em 'twasn't vitty when they shoved off. 'Tis blowing
hard. I be going out along to see w'er t'other on 'em's in eet."
The sea was angry, the moon obscure. The dead-asleep town stood up
motionless before the madly-living breakers. It seemed as if a horrible
fight was in progress; loud rage and dumb treachery face to face in the
semi-darkness; and between the livelong combatants, little men ran to
and fro, peering out to sea.
Presently the third boat ran ashore. Its bellied sail hid everything
from us who waited at the water's edge. It was hoisted on a high wave,
and cast on land. The sea did not want it then. The sea spewed it up.
The sea can afford to wait, even until the clean bright little town is
a ruin on a salt marsh.
Returning in house, we made hot tea, and laughed.
3
We had, as it were, said _Good-Night_ to the town, though it was only
half-past three in the afternoon. Most lazy we must have looked as we
sailed off to the fishing ground with a light fair wind, NNW. John's
young muscular frame was leaning against the mainmast, like a
magnificent statue dressed for the moment in fishermen's rig. Tony aft
was lounging across the tiller. He fits the tiller, for he is older and
bent and his eyes are deeply crowsfooted with watching. Both of them
showed the same splendid contrast of navy-blue jerseys against sea eyes
and spray-stung red and russet skins. I was lying full length along the
midship thwart. We lopped along lazily, about three knots to the hour.
[Sidenote: _HERRING DRIFTING_]
As we lounged and smoked, each of us sang a different song, more or
less in tune. It sounded not unmelodious upon the large waters. At
intervals we asked one another where the 'gert bodies of herrings' had
gone off to. Eastwards, westwards, to the offing, or down to the bottom
to spawn?
So near the land we were, yet so far from it in feeling. There, to the
NE. was the little town, sunlit and brilliantly white, with the church
tower rising in the middle and the heather-topped cloud-capped hills
behind. There around the bay, were the red cliffs, crossed by deep
shadows and splotched with dark green bushes. The land was there. We
were to sea. The water, which barely gurgled beneath the bows of the
drifter, was rushing up the beaches under the cliffs with a
myriad-sounding rattle. Gulls, bright pearly white or black as
cormorants, according as the light struck them, were our only
companions. The little craft our kingdom was--twenty-two foot long by
eight in the beam,--and a pretty pickle of a kingdom!
Mixed up together in the stern were spare cork buoys, rope ends, sacks
of ballast and Tony. Midships were the piled up nets and buoys. For'ard
were more ballast bags and rope ends, some cordage, old clothes, sacks,
paper bags of supper, four bottles of cold tea, two of paraffin oil and
one of water, the riding lamp and a very old fish-box, half full of
pebbles, for cooking on. All over the boat were herring scales and
smelly blobs of roe. It's sometime now since the old craft was scraped
and painted.
But the golden light of the sunset gilded everything, and the probable
catch was what concerned us.
We chose our berth among the other drifters that were on the ground. We
shot two hundred and forty fathom of net with a swishing plash of the
yarn and a smack-smack-splutter of the buoys. We had our supper of
sandwiches and tatie-cake and hotted-up tea.
"Can 'ee smell ort?" asked John sniffing out over the bows.
"Herring!" said I. "I can smell 'em plainly."
"Then there's fish about."
Tony however remarked the absence of birds, and declared that the water
didn't look so fishy as when they had their last big haul. "They
herrings be gone east," he repeated.
"G'out! What did 'ee come west for then? I told yu to du as yu was
minded, an' yu did, didn' 'ee? Us'll haul up in a couple o' hours an'
see w'er us got any."
We didn't turn in. We piled on clothes and stayed drinking, smoking,
chatting, singing--a boat-full of life swinging gently to the nets in
an immense dark silence, an immense sea-whisper.
[Sidenote: _HAULING IN THE NETS_]
About nine o'clock we hauled in for not more than nine dozen of fish.
The sea-fire glimmered on the rising net, glittered in the boat, and
then, with an almost painful suddenness, snuffed out. "They be so full
as eggs," said John every minute or two, holding out fish to Tony, who
felt them and answered, "Iss, they'm no scanters [spawned or undersized
fish]. _They_ bain't here alone."
Nets inboard, we rowed a little east of another boat, to shoot a second
time. John said, "Hoist the sail, can't 'ee." Tony said, "What's the
need?"
Before eleven we were foul of the other boat's nets and had again to
haul in. Tony puffed and panted with the double weight; John
disentangled the mesh and swore.
"If we'd a-hoisted the sail..." he grumbled.
"There wasn't no need if we'd a-pulled a bit farther."
"What's the good o' pulling yer arms out?"
"I knowed where to go, on'y yu said we was far enough."
"No I didn't!"
"S'thee think I don' know where to shute a fleet o' nets?"
"Well, we'm foul, anyhow."
"I was herring drifting afore yu was born. I knows well enough."
"Why don' 'ee hae yer own way then, if yu knows. Yu'm s'posed to be
skipper here."
"If I'd had me own way...."
"Hould thy bloody row, casn'!"
It sounded like murder gathering up; but Tony calls it their brotherly
love-talk, and they are no worse friends for it all. The better the
catch, the more exciting the work, and the livelier the love-talk. They
say, therefore, that it brings luck to a boat.
A third time we shot nets, safely to the east of every other craft.
Then John with his legs in a sack and a fearnought jacket round him,
snored in the cutty, whilst Tony nodded sleepily outside. The sky
eastwards had already in it the weird whitish light of the coming moon.
The risen wind was piping out from land. I could see the bobbing lights
of the other drifters to westward, and the glint of the Seacombe lamps
on the water. Every now and then a broken wave came up to the boat with
a confidential hiss. I had a constant impression that out of the dark
flood some great voice was going to speak to me--speak quite softly.
"Shall us hot some more tea?" said Tony. "My feet be dead wi' cold."
We took the old fish-box and placed on the pebbles in it an old
saucepan half full of oakum soaked in paraffin. Across the saucepan we
ledged a sooty swivel, and on the swivel a black tin kettle which
leaked slowly into the flame. Tony and myself lay with our four feet
cocked along the edge of the box for warmth. The smoke stank in our
nostrils, but the flame was cheery. By that flickering light the boat
looked a great deep place, full of lumber and the blackest shadows. The
herring scales glittered and the worn-out varnish was like rich brown
velvet. And how good the tea, though it tasted of nothing but sugar,
smoke, paraffin and herring.
[Sidenote: _A LONG NIGHT AT SEA_]
It was nearly midnight. Tony suggested forty winks.
John was still sprawling beneath the cutty. Tony and I snoozed under
the mainsail, huddled up together for the sake of warmth, like animals
in a nest. At intervals we got up to peep over the gunwale or to bale
the boat out. Then with comic sighs we coiled down together again. It
was bitterly cold in the small hours. We pooled our vitality, as it
were, and shared and shared alike. When we finally awoke, about five in
the morning, the wind had died down, the sky and moon were clouded, and
a dull mist was creeping over the sea.
We hauled in the net--fathoms of it for scarcely a fish.
"Have 'ee got anything to eat?" asked Tony.
"No."
"Have yu got ort to drink?" asked John.
"No."
"Got a cigarette?" I asked.
"Not one."
"If we was to go a bit farther out and shute...." said Tony.
"G'out! Hould yer row!"
"All very well for yu. Yu been sleeping there for all the world like a
gert duncow [dog-fish]. Why didn' 'ee wake up an' hae a yarn for to
keep things merry like?"
[Sidenote: _NORT' AT ALL_]
John was leaning out over the bows. He rose up; stretched himself.
"Shute again!" he said with scorn. "Us an't got nort to eat, nort to
drink, nort to smoke, nor nort to talk about, an' us an't catched nort.
Gimme thic sweep there, an' let's get in out o' it, I say."
It was foggy. I steered the boat by compass over a sea that, under the
smudged moon, was in colour and curve like pale violently shaken liquid
mud. In time we glimpsed the cliffs with the mist creeping up over
them. Day was beginning to break, and with a breath of wind that had
sprung up from the SE., we glided like a phantom ship on a phantom sea
towards a phantom town between whose blind houses the wisps of the fog
writhed tortuously.
Sixteen hours to sea in an open boat--for three hundred herrings--and
the price three shillings a hundred!
It is nothing to fishermen, that; but we were all glad of our
breakfast, a smoke and our beds.
4
Tony was gone to sea on Christmas Eve. (They caught three thousand).
Mrs Widger had cricked her back, or had caught cold in it standing at
the back door with the steaming wash-tub in front of her and a
northerly wind behind. We wanted some supper beer....
I felt more than a little shy on entering the jug and bottle department
with a jug. It is such a secret place. To face a bar full of people and
plump a jug down on the counter, is one thing; but it is quite another
to slink up the stairs and into the wooden box--about seven feet high
and four by four--that does duty for the jug and bottle department, and
the privy tippling place, of the Alexandra Hotel. There is no gas
there. Light filters in from elsewhere. It holds about five people,
jammed close together. Round it runs a shelf for glasses, and at one
end is a tiny door through which jugs are passed to the barman. Once
there was a curtain across the entrance, but it was put to such good
and frequent use that they removed it. Talk in the jug and bottle box
is usually carried on in soft whispers punctuated by laughter.
Three cloaked old women were there and one young one. Their jugs stood
on the shelf, ready to take home, but meanwhile they were having a
round of drinks on their own account. They looked surprised at my
arrival (it was an intrusion); and more surprised still when, on
hearing that the barman was merely having a chat the other side, I
rattled the jug on the shelf and bumped the little door. They gasped
when I slipped the bolt of the little door with a penknife. What chake
to be sure! The hotel shows respect to its light-o'-day customers, but
the dim jug and bottle box is supposed to show respect to the hotel. It
calls the barman _Sir_. It said, "Good-night, sir!" in astonished
chorus to me.
But just as the mere act of jumping a skipping rope made me long ago a
freeman among the children, so I notice that fetching the supper beer
has resulted in another indefinable promotion. I am not so much now
'thic ther gen'leman tu Tony Widger's.' I am become 'Mister
So-and-so'--myself alone.
When I returned with the jug Jimmy was seated at the table and saying
between tears, "I want some supper, Mam. I be 'ungry."
"Yu daring rascal! Yu'll catch your death o' cold if yu goes on getting
your feet wet like this, night after night. I'll break every bone in
your body, I will! Take off they beuts to once, an' go on up over. An't
got no supper for the likes o' you. Yu shan't wear your best clothes
to-morrow, n'eet at all, spoiling 'em like this, yu dirty little cat!
I'll beat it out o' 'ee. Now then! Up over!"
Very tearful, very hungry, and very slowly, Jimmy went to bed.
"No supper's the thing for the likes o' he," his mother remarked. "I
shall gie it to him one o' these days, but I don't hold wi' knocking
'em about tu much."
Her impatience in speech and patience in action are alike
extraordinary. She says she will half kill the children and seldom
strikes even: if I had the responsibility of them, I fear I should do
both.
[Sidenote: _SUNDAY CLOTHES_]
Next morning there was a fine dispute over the Sunday clothes. Both
Jimmy and Tommy went upstairs defiantly, and routed them out. The
kitchen was filled with cries and jeers and threats. Tommy appealed to
me. I told him I knew nothing about it, because I hadn't got any Sunday
clothes myself.
"Iss, yu 'ave," said Tommy.
"No, not a rag."
"Yu 'ave."
"I haven't. I've none at all. You've never seen them."
"G'out!"
"That's right."
"Well," said Tommy confidentially, "Yu got a clean chimie-shirt then,
an't 'ee?"
In the laughter which followed, the Sunday clothes were slipped on. And
while Jimmy was struggling with a new pair of boots, he paid me the
nicest compliment I have ever heard. He looked up, red but thoughtful.
"Yu'm like Father Christmas," he said.
"Why for, Jimmy?"
"'Cause yu'm kind."
Jimmy doesn't know how kind he is to me. And I don't suppose it would
do him any good to tell him.
We had a very typical and enjoyable English Christmas. We over-ate
ourselves, and were well pleased, and the children went to bed crying.
5
[Sidenote: _THE "SHOOTING STAR" FITS OUT_]
"_Shuteing Star o' Seacombe!_ '_Tis_ a purty crew to go herring
driftin'! I'd so soon fall overboard in a gale o' wind as go out to say
wi' thic li'l Roosian like that ther. Lord! did 'ee ever see the like
o'it? I never did. But there, what can 'ee 'spect when the herring be
up in price an' men an' boats as hasn' been to sea for years fits out
for to go herring driftin'? Coo'h! driftin'!"
That was Uncle Jake's opinion. He stood on the shingle with his old
curiosity of a hat cocked on one side and his hands deep in his trouser
pockets, turning himself round inside his clothes to rub warmth into
his skin; talking, always talking, whilst his twinkling eyes watch sea
and land; but ready to help a boat shove off, and willing to take as
pay the opportunity of talking to, and at, its crew. "'Tis blowing a
fresh wind out 'long there, I tell 'ee," was his formula of
encouragement for a starting boat.
Herrings were up! Sixteen shillings a thousand they had been before
Christmas; then eighteen, twenty-three, thirty-one.... "They'm fetching
two poun' a thousand tu Plymouth, what there is, an' buyers there
waiting from all over the kingdom. An' they'm still going up, 'cause
there ain't none. Nine bob a hunderd tu St Ives, I've a-heard say.
There's a Plymouth buyer here to-day. I've a-see'd our Seacombe buyers
luke. They Plymouth men be the bwoys!"
Herrings too have been in our bay as they have not come for
years--'gert bodies of 'em'--while a succession of gales and blizzards
has been sweeping the whole of the rest of the British coasts, and
driving the steam-drifters into harbour. Hence the price of fish:
quotations very high; business nil, or next door to it. Our bay
however, by a fortunate freak of the weather, has been amply calm for
our little undecked drifters, though squalls off land have made sailing
tricky in the extreme. We have seen the snow on the distant hills but
none has fallen here. We have had the ground-swell, rolling in from
outside, but of broken seas, not one.
The boats that came in early on Christmas night (they didn't like the
look of the weather) brought hauls of ten thousand or so. They had
given away netfuls of herring to craft from other places, because they
had caught so many, and the wind was against them and the sky wild.
Next night, much the same thing. It was rumoured that some Cornish
craft were beating up to the bay.
Next day, the Little Russian, a small, snug, ragged, much-bearded man,
was to be seen painting the stern of his old boat--a craft more
tattered and torn, if possible, than her owner.
"What be doing, Harry?"
No reply. Great industry with the paint-brush.
"Be going to sea then?"
"Iss intye! What did 'er think?"
The Little Russian went on doggedly with his work, and when he rose
from his knees, there appeared complete, on the stern of his boat, in
lanky, crooked white letters: _Shooting Star of Seacombe_.
"Be it true yu'm going to sea t'night, Harry?"
"Iss."
"What do 'ee 'spect to catch? Eh?"
No answer again. The Little Russian was hauling a couple of nets
aboard.
"Who be going with 'ee?"
"Ol' Joe Barker an' 'Gustus Theodore."
"Good Lord! '_Tis_ a crew, that! Be 'ee going to catch dree dozen or
ten thousand?"
"We'm on'y taking two nets," replied the Little Russian quite
seriously.
He was very busy.
[Sidenote: _AND SHOVES OFF_]
About three in the afternoon, when the drifters put out to sea, the
nor'west wind was springing out from land in squalls. It had not
sea-space to raise big waves, but it blew the white tops off the
wavelets which hurried out against, and on the top of, the sou'westerly
swell that was heaving its way in. As Uncle Jake remarked: "'Tis
blowing fresh, I can tell 'ee, an' not so very far out at that. An'
'tis blowing half a gale from the sou'west outside in the Channel. Do
'ee see thic black line across the horizon? That's the sou'west wind,
an' plenty o'it. Luke at thees yer run along the shore, wi' a calm sea.
'Tis the sou'west outside as makes that tu."
The boats hoisted their smaller mainsails. "Aye, an' they'll hae to
reef they down afore they gets out far. There! did 'ee see thic? That's
thiccy seine-boat as fitted out. Seine-boats ain't no fit craft for
herring driftin'."
The mainmast of the seine boat had toppled over to port. No sooner was
it re-stepped, and the sail hoisted, than over it went again. "Step o'
the mast gone, I'll be bound," said Uncle Jake. "They'm going to
capsize, going on like that, if they bain't careful. Poor job! when
mastises goes over like that. Better to row.... There's thic Li'l
Roosian shoving off!"
In fact, the _Shooting Star_ was shoved off, but a wave threw her back
upon the shore. She was again shoved off. Again she grounded on the
sand, and there she stuck. A roar of laughter broke forth all along the
beach. The Little Russian and his crew stood up in the heeled-over
boat, and by using their oars like punt poles, they tried to prevent
the seas from slewing them round broadside on. Very helpless they
looked, very comic, very futile.
A swarm of small boys buzzed around and jeered. The Little Russian
jumped up and down with vexation. Augustus Theodore, rowing frantically
in a foot or so of water, splashed and 'caught crabs.' Joe Barker,
tall, patriarchal, thin and thinly clad, stood up to his oar, looked
savage curses from his sunken old eyes and muttered them into his
beard.
[Sidenote: _AND GETS OFF_]
"That _be_ a purty crew!" repeated Uncle Jake. "I 'ouldn' go to say wi'
'em, not if.... A purty fellow, thic 'Gustus Theodore! They calls
chil'ern by names nowadays, but they called he 'Gustus Theodore, an' us
can't get over thic, so us al'ays calls 'en 'Gustus Theodore in long.
Bain't no gude tu hisself nor nobody else. I've a-took 'en to say....
Never again! 'Er ain't no fisherman nuther. An' thic Joe Barker's past
it. He've had his day. Been in the Army an' been in the Navy, an' an't
brought no pension out o' the one n'eet out o' t'other. Helped throw a
'Merican midshipman overboard once, so they say, drough a porthole.
Thought they was going to be hanged for it, but they wasn't. He've
a-lived wildish in his time, I can tell 'ee; an' now he's the man for
sleep. Take 'en out shrimping or lifting crab-pots, stop rowing a
minute an' he's fast asleep. The Li'l Roosian hisself an't been to say
thees dozen years. 'Tis a crew o'it! Luke! _they_ can't shove off. I
can see they wants Uncle Jake there."
The _Shooting Star_ was still being shoved. The Little Russian was
still jumping up and down in the stern-sheets; Augustus Theodore was
still rowing fast and fruitlessly; and Joe Barker stood impassively
tall--a mummy of a man, wrapped up in aged clothes and a great dirty
white beard. Life was contracted within him. No more than his eyes
seemed alive, and hardly those until you looked closely; for the yellow
rims and whites appeared to be dead, and the old cursing flame of life
burnt only in the pupils.
"Do 'ee really mean to go?" asked Uncle Jake, taking up a long oar to
shove with. "'Tisn't nowise fit for a crazy craft like thees yer."
"When a man," said the Little Russian solemnly, "when a man has a
chance to catch herring and pay his way, and pay a debt or two maybe,
'tis on'y right to try."
"For sure 'tis. But why an't 'ee been to say thees twelve year then?"
"An't been fit...."
"Fit! Tis the price o' herring fetches the likes o' yu. Have 'ee got
yer lead-line and compass aboard?"
"I've broke mine."
"'Tis tempting Providence to go away wi'out 'em Be yu off? Off yu goes
then. Luke out!"
A yell went up as a wave broke in over the stern and soaked Joe
Barker's back.
"They'm off!" cried Uncle Jave with ironic merriment. "Wet drough to
the skin they be!"
The Little Russian rowed steadily on the same side as 'Gustus Theodore.
Both of them just balanced Joe Barker, who rowed on the other side in
strong jerks, as if his aged strength revived for a part only of each
stroke.
Darkness, drawing in over the sea, hid the drifters from sight. Along
the beach we asked one another in jest, "I wonder what the _Shuteing
Star_ is doing now?"
The commonest answer was a laugh. But we did want to know.
Between eleven o'clock and midnight sail after sail appeared silently
on the black darkness, as if some invisible hand had suddenly painted
them there. The boats were coming in. Creaks and groans of winches
sounded along the beach.
[Sidenote: _AND RETURNS_]
"Who be yu?" was the greeting from a rabble of youths who scuttled up
and down the waters' edge to guide boats to their berths and gain first
news of the catches. "Have 'ee see'd ort o' the _Shuteing Star_?" they
shouted.
"No-o-o-o!"
"_I_ shan't go to bed till they comes in," said Uncle Jake. "Cuden'
sleep if I did. '_Tis_ a craft! Her's so leaky as a sieve, lying dry
all these years. Not but what her was a gude 'nuff li'l craft in her
time--tu small for winter work. But I wishes 'em luck, I du."
At last, the _Shooting Star_ did row in. They had not dared to sail
her. She touched the beach before we glimpsed her, for all our
watching. A crowd ran down to haul her up and to crack jokes on her.
"Have 'ee catched ort, Harry?"
"Tu or dree dizzen, an' half a ton o' coral an' some wild-crabs."
"Did 'er sail well--keep up to the wind? Eh?"
"Us rowed. 'Tis blowin' a gale out there."
"What yu done to your nets?"
"Broke 'em."
"On to the bottom?"
"Iss."
"Why didn't 'ee go crab-fishing proper? Be 'ee going again?"
The little Russan saw no joke. He bustled about the boat and replied:
"A-course we be, if 'tis fit."
"Well, I wishes 'ee luck then."
We all wished luck to the _Shooting Star_--to that cranky old boatload
of pluck, ill-luck, and ancient desperation.
Said Uncle Jake: "I'd rather see they come in wi' a boatload o' herring
than any boat along the beach. 'Tis a purty craft an' a purty crew, but
they du desarve it."
So said we all. 'Twas the least payment we could make for our
entertainment.
As soon as they were hauled up, Joe Barker lit his pipe, and, instead
of going to bed, he went west along the shore, and carried up and
sifted sand till dawn.
"Jest what he be fit for now," Uncle Jake remarked. "That'll get 'en
his bread an' baccy far sooner'n drifting for herring in thic _Shuteing
Star_."
But if we only could have looked into the _Shooting Star_ at sea. The
_Shooting Star of Seacombe_!
6
"Us got 'em at last then!" so we tell one another. We have caught the
catch of the season.
For three or four days the hauls had been fairly good. Elsewhere on the
coast, the snow, sleet, wind and wrecks continued. Here alone, in
Seacombe Bay, it got colder and colder, and the sea became calmer and
sunnier. "Tis like old days," Uncle Jake said while he spliced a new
cut-rope to the drifter. "The herring be come again, in bodies, and the
price be up. Us'll hae 'em."
[Sidenote: _PAYING CALLS AT SEA_]
An hour before sunset on Saturday afternoon we were shoved off the
beach--Tony, John, and myself. Every article of underclothing in
duplicate, a couple of guernseys and a coat or two were next to
nakedness. We were bloated with clothes, but that northerly air, it
seemed to be fingering our very skins. Yet there was hardly wind enough
to fill the sail. Ricketty-rock, ricketty-rock, went the sweeps between
the thole-pins, as we rowed to the fishing ground six miles or so away.
Not one of us wished to shirk the heavy work. 'Twas indeed our only
source of warmth. The sun was setting. The moon began to rise. The sea
was all of a glimmer and glitter.
"I should think we was nearly where they fish be," said John.
"Bit farther," said Tony. "Us'll drift back 'long when the flid tide
makes."
"Du as yu'm minded tu."
"Steer her a little bit in," directed Tony.
"A little bit out," directed John the next minute.
It was a middle course that turned out so happily.
We shot our nets--seven forty-fathom nets we had aboard--between the
dying sunlight and the rising moon. Very still was the sea, and quiet,
except where the other drifters were shooting their nets. Their talk
lingered on the water; small voices that yet sounded strong. By the
light of the moon I counted twenty-seven drifters, some of them great
harbour craft from Cornwall, carrying fifteen or more nets. It seemed
as if not a herring on that little fishing ground could escape the long
fleets of nets.
We lighted the paraffin flare; supped on sandwiches and oily tea. We
stamped about the stern-sheets to try and warm our feet. We sat awhile
beneath the cutty. We thought we smelt fish, but it might have been
only the smoke from our oil fire and the herring roe plastered about
the boat. Despairing of sleep in such a cold, we sang and smoked.
Presently a plash of oars. Little punts were detaching themselves from
the larger drifters and flitting about on the sea like slow-winged
moon-butterflies. One came alongside.
"Whu's that there?"
"Tony an' John Widger--Have 'em been catching much to Hallsands?--Be
they Plymouth drifters up t'night?--What price yu been making?--How
deep yu got yer nets?--Have 'ee catched holt the bottom?--How's Aaron
an' Charles?--Did he get back ort o' his gear?--Us an't done a gert
deal eet. Few thousands thees week. Be yu going to haul in
soon?--Better, be her? Thought her was dead by now...."
[Sidenote: _HAULING IN_]
The fish-gossip over, we knew all the news of our stretch of coast.
After taking another cigarette and another pull at our 'drop o' summut
short,' the man in the punt rowed off to his drifter.
"D' yu know your fourth buoy's awash?" he shouted back.
"Is it, by God!" said John.
"I can see 'tis," said Tony.
"G'out! why didn' 'ee see 'twas afore then? Let's go an' luke."
We buoyed the end of the road and started rowing alongside the
net-buoys. The fourth was bobbing up and down. The fifth appeared now
and then. None of the others was visible.
"Damn'd if us bain't going to see some sport!" shouted John as we
hastened back to take up the road.
We tugged on oilskins and then waited watchfully--for the inside net to
fill as well. The third buoy disappeared. The second went awash. "Now
'tis time, ain't it?"
"Iss, I reckon."
We bent to it, and began to haul.
The road come in heavy: John hauled and Tony coiled. As the net rose we
saw a shimmer in the water, not of sea-fire--it was too cold--but of
silver-sided herring. Then John took the foot of the net, Tony the mesh
and myself the headrope. One strain. Altogether! Net and fish came in
over the gunwale.
"No use to try and pick 'em out yer!" said John.
"Us 'ould never ha' got 'em in wi' two," panted Tony.
"Haul, casn'! Trim the boat. We'm going to hae all us can carry if
t'other nets be so full as thees yer."
We hauled, and pulled, and puffed and swore. The fish came over the
side like a band of jewels, like shining grains on a huge and
never-ending ear of corn, like a bright steel mat.... It was as if the
moonlight itself, that flooded air and water, was solidifying into fish
in the dimmer depths of the sea. A good catch must have dropped back
out of the net. At times, it seemed as if nothing could move the
headrope. I jammed a knee against the gunwale, waited till the dipping
of the boat gave me a foot or two of line, then jammed again to hold
it. The sea-birds screeched at their feast.
Tony, an inflated mannikin, danced on the piled-up nets and fish.
"Help, help!" he cried to the next drifter. "Us got a catch."
"Hould yer row!"
"Help, help!"
"Shut up, yu fule!--We'm not done yet.--Thee doesn't want to pay for
help, dost?"
[Sidenote: _THE CATCH OF THE SEASON_]
We hauled, pulled, puffed and swore again. Yard by yard the nets came
up, now foul, now broken, now tangled, now wound about the headrope and
almost solid with fish.
"Oh, my poor back."
"Lord, my arms!"
"Casn' thee trim a boat better'n that?"
"Where 'er down tu?"
"There's only two strakes to spare."
The water was within less than a foot of the gunwale, and we were five
or six miles from home.
"Help, help!" shouted Tony again, and this time we let it pass. Five
out of our seven nets were aboard; we could not take the remaining two.
Another drifter came alongside and took in the sixth net.
"Come on! here's the seventh--the last."
"Can't take no more."
"Ther's on'y thees yer outside net. Casn' thee take thic?"
"Can't du it. We'm leaking now. Here's your headrope. Good-night."
Tony gave a gesture of despair. "What shall us du? Us can't take in
much more.
"Hould yer row, an' haul!"
The last net was fuller than ever. We hauled in half of it. A punt came
near. "Can 'ee take one net?" yelled Tony.
"Us got 'en half in now," said John.
"Iss, but the wind's gone round--north-easterly--dead against us. An'
luke at the circle round the mune. Ther's wind in thic sky, I tell 'ee.
Us got so much now as we can carry home on a calm sea, let 'lone
choppy."
We cut the net.
"Hurry up! Hoist sail and get in out o'it 'fore the wind rises. Come
on!"
With two oars out to windward we started beating home. We made a tack
out to sea. There the waves skatted in over the bows, for the
deeply-laden boat was down by the head because the heavy pile of net
and fish prevented the water from running aft where we could have
bailed it out. If we had had to tack much farther to sea.... We should
have lost the catch, and perhaps ourselves.
We put the boat round towards Seacombe. "Luff her up all yu can," said
John. "Luff her up, I tell thee, or we'm never going to fetch. The
sea's rising an' us an't got nort to spare."
By keeping the luff of the sail in a flutter, sometimes too much into
the wind, I just fetched. Then we rowed into smoother water.
"'Tis fifteen thousand if 'tis one," said John.
"'Tis more'n that," said Tony with a note of respect in his voice.
[Sidenote: _PACKING THE FISH_]
"Better wait till they sends some boats out. Us can't baych the boat
wi' thees weight in her."
We yelled, anchored, then waited; swore, yelled and waited. Someone
came at last. The great heavy mast was sent ashore. Two boatloads of
net and fish followed, and finally the drifter herself was beached.
The crowd that had gathered on the shingle worked at the winch and
ropes. We walked about among them answering questions, but for the
moment doing nothing. We felt we had a right to watch the landlubbers
work in return for the herrings we threw out to them. We had been to
sea; had caught the catch of the season.
I came in house and fried some herrings for supper. Tony and John went
back to the boat. All night long they worked under the moon, drawing
out the net and picking the fish from it, standing knee-deep in fish,
spotted with scales like sequins. Far into Sunday they worked, counting
and packing the fish while the Sunday folk in their best clothes
strolled along the sea-wall and sniffed.
Twenty-two long-thousand herrings--squashed, dirty and
bloodstained--were carted away in the barrels. Twenty-eight hours Tony
and John had worked. Then they washed, picked herring scales off
themselves, and rested. The skin was drawn tightly over their faces
and, as it were, away from their eyes. I saw, as I glanced at them,
what they will look like when they are old men: the skull and
crossbones half peeped out. And I said to myself: "When we feed on
herrings we feed on fishermen's strength. Though we don't cook human
meat, we are cannibals yet. We eat each other's lives."
Rightly considered, that's not a nasty thought. Nor a new one either.
7
New Year's Eve last night.... Tony did not go to sea. He announced that
he would turn over a new leaf, and be a gen'leman, and not do no work
no more. "Summut'll turn up," he said when I asked him how he was going
to feed his family. "Al'ays have done an' al'ays will, I s'pose. Thees
yer ol' fule 'll go on till he's clean worked out. Thee casn' die but
once, an' thee casn' help o'it nuther.
"Shut thee chatter an' bring in some wude," said Mrs Widger. "Now then
yu children, off yu goes! Up over, else my hand'll be 'longside o'ee!"
"Gude-night!" say the children in chorus. "Gude-night! Gude-night! See
yu t'morrow morning. Du us hae presents on New Year's Day, Mam?"
"Yu'll see. P'raps a cracker...."
"Coo'h...."
"Up over!"
"What 'tis tu be a family man," said Tony.
"Whu's fault's that?" Mam Widger retorted.
"There, me ol' stocking, don't thee worry a man! Gie us a kiss...."
"G'out!"
[Sidenote: _DREE-HA'P'ORTH_]
The Christmas decorations and the little spangled toys from the
children's crackers were still hanging from clothes-lines across the
kitchen. We piled wood on the fire; it had barnacle shells on it; with
the wreckage of good ships we warmed ourselves. Mam Widger laid the
supper. The steam from the kettles puffed merrily into the room.
Herrings were cooking in the oven. A faint odour--they were being
stewed in vinegar--stole out into the room to give us appetite and for
the moment a sense of plenty. Mrs Widger took a penny-ha'penny from the
household purse and handed it, together with a jug to Tony.
"Dree-ha'p'orth o' ale an' stout. Go on."
Tony returned with tupence-ha'p'orth. He had added a penny out of his
own pocket because he is ashamed to ask for less than a pint. Grannie
Pinn came in at the same time. "I got the t'other pen'orth for me
mither-in-law," said Tony.
"Chake again!" Grannie Pinn cried. "I wants more'n a pen'orth, I du."
Tony slipped off his boots just in time. It was I who had to fetch an
extra dree-ha'p'orth.
We supped with the uproariousness that Grannie Pinn always brings here.
Some other people dropped in to see how we were doing. Not staying to
clear the supper, we sang. The songs, as such, were indifferently good,
but we meant them and enjoyed them. For a while Grannie Pinn contented
herself with humming and nodding to the chorus. She started singing:
swore at us for laughing at her. "I cude sing a song wi' anybody once,"
she said; and therewith she struck up a fine, very Rabelaisian old song
in many verses. She lifted up her face to the ceiling, blushed (I am
sure the Tough Old Stick blushed), and in a high cracked voice that
gradually gathered tone and force, she trolled her verses out. With an
infectious abandonment, we took up the chorus. After all, 'twas a song
of things that happen every day--one of those pieces of folk-humour
which makes life's seriousness bearable by carrying us frankly back to
the animal that is in us, that has been cursed for centuries and still
remains our strength.
Grannie Pinn's song was the event of the evening. Excited by her
efforts to the point of hardly knowing whether to laugh or cry, she
told us we were 'a pack o' gert fules,' and went. The other visitors
followed after.
"Don' know what yu feels like," said Tony when they were all gone. "I
feels more-ish. 'N hour agone I wer fit for bed, now I feels 's if I
cude sing for hours on end...."
[Sidenote: _THE NEW YEAR_]
"May as well welcome in the New Year now 'tis so late as 'tis," said
Mrs Widger, taking from one of her store-places a bottle of green
ginger-wine and another of fearful and wonderful 'Invalid Port' which,
as she remarked, 'ain't so strengthening as the port what gentry has.'
Tony added hot water to his ginger-wine, lay back in the courting
chair, plumped his feet on Mrs Widger's lap, and sang some more of
those sea songs that have such melancholy windy tunes and yet most
curiously stimulate one to action. I think it must be because they echo
that particular sub-emotional desperation which causes men to do their
reckless best--the desperation that the treacherous sea itself
engenders.
At a minute or two before twelve by the clock, the three of us went out
to the back door. When the cats had scuttled away, the narrow walled-in
garden was very still. By the light of the stars, shining like points
in the deep winter heavens, I could see the beansticks, the balks of
wood and the old masts and oars. I could also smell the drain. Tony, in
his stockinged feet, leant on his wife's shoulder while he raised first
one foot from the cold stones, and then the other. We were a little
hushed, with more than expectancy. So we waited; to hear the church
clock strike and to welcome in the New Year.
And we waited until Tony said that his feet were too cold to stay there
any longer. The church clock struck--_ting-tang, ting-tang_--in the
frosty air.... A quarter past! The New Year had been with us all the
while. It was our German-made kitchen clock had stopped.
We laughed aloud because the strain was relaxed; then bolted the door
and began putting away the supper things.
"If anybody wants to make me a New Year's Gift," said Tony, "they can
gie me a thousand a year."
"And then yu'd be done for," I said. "Yu cuden' stand a life o' nort to
du. Nor cude I. We'm both in the same box, Tony. We've both got only
our strength and skill and health, and if that fails, then we'm done.
We'm our own stock-in-trade, and if we fail ourselves, then we've both
got only the workhouse or the road."
"Iss," said Mam Widger, "an' I don' know but what yu'm worse off than
Tony. He _cude_ get somebody to work his boats--for a time. An' I cude
work. But afore yu comes to the workhouse yu jest walk along thees way,
an' if us got ort to eat yu shall hae some o'it."
"Be damn'd if yu shan't!" said Tony. (I was putting away the pepper-pot
at the moment). "Us 'ouldn't never let thee starve, not if us had it
ourselves for to give 'ee."
* * * * *
So there 'tis. I'd wish to do the same for him, that he knows. How much
the spirit of such an offer can mean, only those who have been without
a home can understand fully. This New Year's Day has been happier than
most. Life has made me a New Year's Gift so good that I cannot free
myself from a suspicion of its being too good.
It has given me home.
X