Recapitulation—Lasts for Individual Feet—Possibility of all Fee
being Well Fitted in their Clothing—Ease and Grace of Movement—A
Last Word for Children.
We have heretofore endeavoured to show what is the true, normal shape
of the healthy foot, as recognized by science, art, and common sense;
that in it the toes lie directly forward of the metatarsal bones, in
the same line, having plenty of room for all of them to come to the
ground, or the surface on which they tread; that there is no occasion
for grown-in-nails, big joints, or corns until after the adoption
of false habits in the manner of the foot’s clothing; that the
elevation of the instep is made by a well-formed and distinct arch,
the breaking-down of which, as manifested in the flattened instep
and elongated heel, is unnatural; that all the various deformities,
weaknesses, and ailments pointed out and remarked upon are so many
vitiations or perversions of the foot’s condition. It has been made
plain, also, _that all our present habits and ways of dressing the
feet tend, more or less directly and strongly, toward this depravity
and distortion_. We have seen that the common sole, by being curved
where it should be straight—on its inside line—inevitably draws
the great toe to one side, and all the toes too closely together,
pushing out the joint, creating corns between and outside the toes,
and lameness or bunion at the joint itself; that this tendency is
_increased_ by _straight_ and _narrow-toed_ soles; that it is made
still worse by _high heels_, which pitch the foot far forward; while
the practice of wearing boots and shoes that are too short makes yet
another addition toward the production of the whole bad result.
So also it is seen that the old-fashioned _short heels_, so long
worn, have had an influence in producing the broken-down arch of the
flat-foot; while other defects in the construction of the foot’s
covering manifest themselves by callosities on the heel and instep,
the turning over to one side, and the pressure, squeezing, and
general discomfort in the fit.
We have, still further, tried to indicate what is the true, natural,
and proper shape of _last_, and wherein it differs from those in
common use. This it will do no harm to re-state. First it was proven
that a correctly-formed last was not a thing to be changed by fashion
or custom, but on the contrary, to be as permanent in its form as
that of the foot which it imitates; that one of its peculiarities was
the straight line on the inside, with the curve upon the outside;
that another was the _spring_, or curve on the bottom; another, the
additional thickness over the place of the great toe; another, the
level bottom side-wise, from the shank, through the middle, forward;
another, the placing of the instep nearer to the side than is done
in lasts of the present time. This was offered as a positively sure
preventive of all those troubles arising from distortion of the toes,
while also having a tendency to encourage feet already deformed in a
return to their natural state.
From several of the positions thus taken, it necessarily follows that
straight lasts are entirely wrong in formation and use, _and that
nothing inferior to, or essentially different from, a right and left
last of the form described, can fully serve the natural requirements
of the foot_.
* * * * *
For flat-footedness the long heel was recommended as one great help
toward recovering the natural position of the arch. A _long_ heel
is the next best thing to no heel at all. It supports the arch the
most nearly as it is supported when the bare foot is pressed upon
the ground or floor. Where this will not restore the shape, it will
at least be likely to prevent the fault from becoming any worse.
The other remedies—the proper exercise and full development of
the muscles at the bottom of the foot, and the righting of it up
when it treads inward—must be considered as in no way inferior, if
not _superior_, to the first. Taken together, they offer a strong
encouragement to those who wish to overcome the weakness, while they
furnish a sure prevention of it where it does not already exist.
* * * * *
The importance of having lasts made expressly to fit individual feet
has not been sufficiently urged. Though many persons can get their
feet very well fitted at any time without them, and others may be so
situated that they can buy a handsomer and better article than they
can get made, yet where a good shoemaker can be relied upon to make
such a covering as is wanted, there is advantage in knowing how a
good fit can always be obtained. This is by having a pair of lasts
made as nearly right as possible, then allowing the shoemaker to
test and correct them after making a first pair of boots or shoes
on them, when they will be right for the remainder of a lifetime.
The shoemaker may also, after making the first pair, have a pattern
for any particular form of the upper, likewise corrected and made
reliable for further use. The expense of such lasts is not great, and
the custom shoemaker can himself furnish those from his own stock
for a large proportion of his customers, altering and fitting them
up as may be necessary, and supplying their places with others from
the last-maker. They will need to be so fitted up that they can be
slightly raised or lessened in size for thick or thin stockings,
or an increase or decrease of flesh. If a perfect fit is not made
when they are used the second time, a further slight correction will
insure it. After this there will be no dissatisfaction on the part
of the buyer; no fear of loss by misfits on the part of the maker.
Those who have any peculiar notion about their foot-apparel can be
suited. There will be very little trouble from delay, or from getting
the foot accustomed to the boot when first worn. Still further, and
better, the danger of making corns, bunions, grown-in nails, and sore
insteps is reduced to almost nothing; for the covering, being a good
fit, is neither tight nor loose, and does not pinch, cramp, or chafe
any part of the foot.
All these considerations are much more forcible when the feet differ
from an ordinary size and shape. A ready-made article to fit cannot
be bought. It is often difficult for even the best mechanic to make
work that will fit easily and handsomely upon feet that are flat, and
have corns and large joints besides—a combination of difficulties
he is frequently called upon to meet. There is the additional
fact that many feet can seldom or never be measured twice alike,
for all feet vary in size under different conditions, and some of
them a great deal; and hence the uncertainty of being fitted by a
shoemaker the first time he is employed.[10] But when a last of the
right size, length, width, and general shape has been obtained,
with all the corns, joints, sore insteps and other peculiarities
fairly represented upon it, the owner may expect more comfort for
the feet, and a better-looking boot, than has ever been realized for
them before. But such a last cannot be made perfectly correct at
first, and the customer must not be discouraged at finding a little
difficulty. The final satisfaction will repay all the trouble.
A pair of lasts for _boots_, if made in the right way, with a good
width at the shank (or just above it), while rather narrow at the
top, and with a full amount of spring at the toe, can be used for
making _shoes_ and _slippers_, in ordinary cases, by filling up the
shank with a piece of sole-leather in a way well known to custom
shoemakers; although the most perfect results are obtained by having
a separate pair designed for slippers and low shoes. Those who have
difficult feet had better limit themselves to one pair for all kinds
of coverings.
There is hence no need of feet being badly fitted because they are
badly shaped, if their possessors will act upon the suggestions
given. Yet it must not be expected that big joints and flat insteps
can be made _handsome_ by any degree of skill; they can be well
fitted, but their shape remains visible.
A boot or shoe ought to fit easily, yet snugly and smoothly, all
over the foot—around the heel and ankle as well as the forward part
There is no necessity for pinching the instep or crowding the toes;
no occasion for loose leather at the ankle and heel; no propriety in
wrinkles over the instep of a flat foot, nor having a slipper loose
at the sides. All _boots_ must have wrinkles at the ankle, and all
kinds of covering must have some across the foot at the joints. There
need not be any of marked size elsewhere, nor should these be as
large as they commonly are. A new boot should be put on with care to
avoid making them.
The ease and grace of movement connected with feet in their normal
condition, and when properly dressed, has been hinted at several
times previously. This is a consideration almost entirely overlooked;
yet it is not a thing of small importance. Everybody, in greater or
less degree, admires grace and beauty. Nearly everyone who has a
consciousness of being awkward in any way, suffers from that feeling
or knowledge. This love of the beautiful is as much a part of human
nature as conscience; and contributes as much to our pleasure as
almost any other sentiment or affection. When turned more in this
direction, as it should be, it will appreciate beauty in the feet
as quickly as elsewhere. Its influence must be brought to bear in
developing the true and elegant in this department, no less than in
others. It should appreciate a well-formed foot, whether small or
large; and a graceful, easy step in the street as well as in the
ball-room. Let the shuffling or stamping gait of flat-footed persons
generally, be contrasted with the light yet dignified carriage of
those whose feet are properly arched; let the stiff walk of a man
in tight boots be noticed, and then the step of one who goes along
in a pair of light, easy shoes with low heels. The difference in
each of these cases will be very plain. A person cannot walk easily
and handsomely—much less _run_—in boots that are uncomfortable, or
with corns and sore joints crying out at every step. High heels
necessarily give an unnatural character to the step, because the heel
of the foot does not come near the surface, as Nature intended. The
weight of the body is thrown too much upon the forward part of the
foot, which would seem likely to have some tendency toward breaking
it down, _while it prevents that very spring upon the ball and toes
which is the most essential thing in graceful walking_.[11]
Besides this, it is known that high heels _prevent the full growth
of the calf of the leg_, by preventing the full exercise of those
muscles which raise the heel at every step. As it is kept constantly
raised already by an inch and a half of leather under it, of course
there is less required of the muscles, and they are decreased in size.
_Stiffness_, also, has a decided effect upon the carriage of the
body. One who has always worn stiff, clumsy foot-gear has a stiff,
awkward walk, because all the muscles of the foot and leg brought
into play by natural walking have been interfered with and cramped
by the miserable clogs on the feet. As these will bend, or allow the
foot to bend, but very little, there can be but little use of the
muscles which form the calf of the leg and raise the heel. Hence the
calf remains weak and undeveloped, instead of presenting the full,
round, muscular appearance it shows in a well-developed leg, and
which is so necessary to a light, easy, elastic step, and graceful
movement.
The fashionable world—those people whom the earnest thinker and
the practical utilitarian look upon almost as useless idlers in
the community—still have their superiority in one direction, over
the thinker or business man, which must be fairly acknowledged.
They are artists in the matter of dress and personal ornamentation.
They possess that taste and keen sense of the beautiful which forms
everything around them into elegance, grace, and charm. Though
they sometimes sacrifice strength and usefulness, and often go to
foolish extremes, as do the plainer sort in an opposite way, yet
they generally manifest a propriety in dress and surroundings which
compels the admiration even of those sensible and steady ones who
think so highly of the useful, but depreciate the value of beauty.
To the fashionable class, then, no less than to others we appeal to
adopt a fashion in dressing the feet which will tend strongly to
develop beauty in their _form and appearance_, and grace in all their
_movements_. What this is, has been sufficiently well explained. It
may be added that no one should be satisfied without a good fit, and
an article as tasteful and carefully selected as anything that is
worn upon the head, or any other part of the person. The foot has the
same right to be well dressed that is possessed by any other portion
of the body.
A shape of the sole that would be a compromise between the common
form and the correct one, has been suggested for the benefit of those
who could not be persuaded to have anything better. This is a good
one for such feet as are somewhat distorted at the toes, and whose
owners are not disposed to attempt any correction. But we protest
against putting anything less perfect than the “Excelsior” upon
_young_ feet, that are still undeformed, and hence entitled to a
covering that will correspond. Parents have no right to treat their
children in such a way as to induce any of the troubles that have
been described. But this they are almost sure to do, in greater or
less degree, by compelling them to wear the ordinary boot and shoe.
It is true the better kind cannot be obtained ready-made at first,
though the demand will produce them in a reasonable time, yet some
approach to the true thing can be made by a shoemaker of intelligence
and ingenuity, even though, in the absence of proper lasts, he is
obliged to alter and improve some which he already has. Some day the
better article will be both obtainable and inexpensive. In the mean
time those most interested must take the best substitute within their
reach—that which comes nearest the true standard.
FOOTNOTES:
[10] To those custom shoemakers who continue trying to fit everybody
without any specially-made lasts it is suggested that in some of the
most difficult they make a _trial_ shoe, the upper for it being cut
from some cheap material, such as cotton drilling for representing
serge or cloth, and split-leather or sheepskin for leather uppers,
while a piece of insole-leather will answer for the bottom. The
upper can be sewed together without lining, only some eyelets
being necessary for lacing, and when drawn over such a last as is
judged likely to fit the foot it may be roughly fastened down all
around with a waxed thread. After trial on the customer’s foot, the
upper can be ripped off and the sole-leather used for an insole or
something else, while if the shoe fits badly the last is easily
modified, before making a permanent article. The same plan might be
tried with any new last designed for a particular foot.
[11] The effects upon the foot are not the only bad results springing
from heels that are extremely high. The work of Dr. C. F. Taylor has
already been quoted from to show the influence of weak ankles in
developing lateral curvature of the spine. We also find in it some
hints concerning _stoop-shoulders_, which are thus expressed.
“Man has a much narrower base of sustentation than most other
animals, which renders it important that that base should not be
lessened by cramping the feet in narrow shoes, rendering progression
difficult, awkward, and quickly fatiguing. But probably the most
serious fault in the feet-coverings is the elevated heel often given
to them. By elevating the heel, besides the still narrower base
given, whether in progression or standing, the anatomical relations
of the whole body as an instrument of locomotion are materially
changed. As in lateral curvature of the spine, a deviation from the
proper position at one point may cause several other compensating
curves at other points, so an improper position of one part of the
locomotive apparatus will cause a succession of other false positions
of other parts. By elevating the heel and constantly keeping the
flexors of the feet [the muscles on the upper side] on the stretch,
relief to them is instinctively sought by a slight flexion at the
knee; this would destroy the perpendicularity of the figure, were
not another slight flexion made at the hips; but as this would throw
the trunk forward still another flexion backward is required, and
then forward, etc. But in the spinal column a compromise is effected
by a forward curve and inclination of the head. Thus, high heels
tend to produce and permanently establish a succession of zigzags
from the ankles upward, with the weight of the body supported by the
tension of the muscles, and not, as in erect stature, by the bony
framework.”—_Theory and Practice of the Movement-Cure_, p. 75.
The position here described is an approach to that assumed by old
people—those “bent over by age”—who are unable from weakness to stand
upright. The abdominal muscles are relaxed, the chest sinks, the head
falls forward, and the spine adapts itself by bending at the neck
and shoulders. The author goes on to show that these effects are
felt more sensibly by women than by men, and that their diseases and
weaknesses are thus rendered more aggravated, and the complete cure
of them retarded or prevented by the wearing of high heels.