OF THE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY--AND OTHER THINGS.
The country is so small, that, riding in the swift steam-chariots, it
is traversed in an incredibly short time.
In those parts not disfigured by the smoke vomited out from the huge
fire-chimneys of factories, mines, and the like, nor by the nearness of
great towns, the country presents a green and cultivated look; nearly
as well tilled as our provinces, Quang-tun and Chiang-su. The villages,
Temples with lofty towers, great Houses of the High-Castes, here and
there; trees, gardens, smooth fields of fine verdure, over which cattle
and sheep are feeding; rising hills and sheltered valleys, rich with
copses, orchards, and groves--all seen in moving views--give an aspect
of peace, comfort, and wealth. You do not see the poverty, nor, too
closely, observe the dwellings of the poor.
In winter it is cold, and the whole appearance changes. Far to the
North, the sun gives but little light--and, like the climate of our
provinces by the great Northern Wall, the cold is severe, and the gloom
deeper. Ice is formed upon the streams and canals, and snow frequently
covers the ground.
In approaching great towns, you often catch glimpses of the crowded,
wretched streets, where misery only thrives. In some places, in the
winter cold, smoke and darkness, life becomes intolerable to many.
Out of doors you can hardly find your way, and thieves and beggars
emerge from covert to ply their trades. In the night, at such times,
it is only possible to move by the glare of many torches; and people
are often robbed, or bewildered and lost. At this season of darkness
many go mad. There is a strong vein of _horror_ in the Barbarian
imagination, derived from their ferocious ancestors, from their
old idolatries, and deepened by the new. In the gloom, the misery,
the wretchedness--sometimes in sheer disgust of life--many rush
upon self-destruction--throwing themselves under the wheels of the
steam-chariots, and from the bridges into the canals and rivers. Many
persons are thrown down, maimed or killed in the highways, by horses or
by vehicles moving along. Yet, in the grim humour of these barbarians,
this is the very time when the High-Castes begin their _revelries_, and
the Low-Castes most indulge in drink and riot.
In travelling through the country, you will occasionally notice,
seated upon an eminence, some strong Castle, or Place, of hewn stone,
belonging to a High-Caste. It will be approached through long avenues
of lofty trees, and stand pre-eminent among fine groves, surrounded by
broad lands. These wide Parks contain many thousands of acres [met-si],
left untilled and unproductive; merely with their green slopes and
spaces, interspersed with trees, to give grandeur to the Castle and
its Lord. Still, if you look closely, you will discover near by, the
squalid huts where _huddle_ the _Serfs_, who are starving in the midst
of this rich profusion--Serfs, who never have an _inch_ [toe] of land
of their own, and to whose wornout _carcases_ is begrudged a pauper
grave!
The inequality between Castes is quite as conspicuous in country as
in town. One is born to an abundance, the other to hunger; one to a
life of self-indulgence, the other to one of enforced and hard-worked
self-sacrifice. The one, at last, is covered by a tomb, emblazoned with
Honour; the other is cast into an obscure corner of despised dead, to
rot in forgetfulness--though, often, judged upon a true measure of
merit, the resting-places should be exchanged--and the idle and vicious
_Lord_ [chiang-se] descend into ignominious neglect!
You will see deer, pheasants, partridges, hares, and the like, almost
tame, in the meadows and copses; but the tillers of the soil must
not touch them, though starving--they are carefully _preserved_ for
the Lord [Tchou]. Not that he needs them, or cares for them for
food--_sometimes_ he likes to shoot them for idle diversion!
You will notice sturdy _tramps_ (beggars) resting, or lazily slouching
along by the ways, with heavy staves in their hands; and, if you
suddenly come upon these in a secluded place, very likely you will be
accosted--"Master, I be'se hungry--will ye give me tuppence?" You do
not like the bearing of the man--and would not notice him. But you
observe his face and the clutch of his thick stick--and you hurry to
hand him a sixpence, and get away! These scamps prowl about, idle,
ready for mischief, scornful of honest work--the terror of women and
children who meet them, unexpectedly, without protection.
Sometimes the Iron-roads for Steam-chariots are carried over the
housetops, in entering towns; sometimes, through long tunnels under
the houses, or under hills--and the works in connection with these
roads are surprising. The Barbarians of the Low-Castes are forced
to incessant labours, to prevent starvation. These must be greatly
directed to mines of iron, coal, copper, and tin; and to various things
made from these, and from wool and cotton. For the fruits of the land
cannot feed the population. The amount of food which must be brought
from beyond seas is very great--and to pay for this, the products of
industry must be given. Now, other Barbarian tribes make these things
also, and; having them, do not require the English; in fact, in more
distant parts, undersell them. From this cause, many are unemployed and
turned adrift--they have no land to till; they beg, steal, and starve.
Should this inability of the English Barbarians increase, there would
be no sufficient employment for the Low-Castes--there would not be the
means of paying for the food required--and depopulation must ensue! The
wealth of the High-Caste must shrink--_the English tribe must decline
in strength_!
Many of the High-Caste, already anticipating danger to
themselves--fearing not merely loss of revenue, but the savage ferocity
of starving multitudes--promote schemes by which large numbers of the
poor are shipped off far beyond the great Seas (so that they never
shall return)--to starve, or live, as may chance. "England is well rid
of them!" they say.
In the neighbouring island, Ireland, an actual starvation of the
people in vast numbers happened a short time since. As in England,
the poor _serfs_, tilling the soil and owning none; at _the best_,
toiling for the High-Castes for such pittance as would buy the
cheapest food--_potatoes_; when these failed, could buy nothing--all
else too dear. _These failed, the serfs died_ by thousands and tens
of thousands. Not because Ireland was destitute of food; such was
the abundance that ample stores were actually sold for other and
distant tribes! but because, in the midst of plenty, the starving were
powerless to touch it; it was out of _their_ reach--out of the reach
of paupers! The potatoes were not--and they must die. The annals of
no people record such a depopulation of a fertile land, in the midst
of peace and plenty--there is no parallel! A people dying, not from
idleness, nor unwillingness to work; not from want of food at hand; not
from the ravages of war, nor pestilence; but from sheer poverty! Yet,
the English Barbarians boast that no people are so rich, so generous!
In our own annals are recorded great sufferings from floods, failures
of crops, and natural causes; where our vast populations have been for
a time _deficient_ in _food_; but we have nothing to compare with this
Barbarian horror!
The _Thames_ is the only considerable river. This flows through the
greatest of all the cities of the West--London. It is an insignificant
stream--much less than even the _Quang-tun_, in our chief Southern
province.
As it flows through the great city it is, in some places, confined
by high hewn-stone terraces [kar-tra]. These are truly great works,
and useful, worthy of a strong people. On the river bank is the vast
_Hall_ of the Grand Council; with its lofty towers, turrets, clocks,
and many bells. The architecture is not like anything known to us--it
is the _Gothic_, which I have mentioned elsewhere. Why this style, so
characteristic and fit in the Temples, is used in this grand Hall, I
know not; but probably because this barbarous form was that of the old
Hall, destroyed by fire some time since. And the barbaric stolidity
sticks to its habit, however inconvenient and unfit. Not far away, may
be seen the Dome and Towers of a fine Roman-Grecian Temple, clear and
defined, giving expression to an orderly and trained mind, severe in
dignity and beauty. But the _Gothic_, expressing, or trying to express,
something very different; and, rising in the Temples of a gloomy,
dark Superstition, to a horrible and unformed shape! With _that_ the
disorderly brain burdened _itself_ and the river bank--a pile at once
wonderful and abortive!
London is very large, perhaps equal to some of our greatest cities. For
the most part very dirty and grim, and badly built. The river shows its
great trade--not inland, but from abroad. You can discern, rising above
the buildings, the many tall masts of the ships like forests dried up.
And you will observe the numerous vessels with high chimneys; these
are the vessels moved by _steam_--and the incredible number of small
craft. At one point you will remark the tall white towers and the high
prison walls of stone, erected by the Barbarian chief from the Main
Land who subdued the English tribes in our dynasty _Song_, and made
this huge Castle a stronghold and prison.
Lower down rises, close by the shore, one of the best in style of all
the Barbarian monuments. It is a fine Palace in carved stone, built,
after the Roman forms, to perpetuate the remembrance of _Victories_
gained over distant tribes. Within are great Paintings of these
Victories. Terrible scenes of devastation and cruelty; bloody fights
and dreadful conflagrations, by sea and land; rapine, massacre,
unbridled fury! These are the most admired of all things by the
Barbarians--by the Low-Castes, who are almost entirely the victims,
as much as by the High. The sight of these kindles their passion for
bloody force. They _Hoorah!_ with an indescribable _yell_ [zung]
whenever they wish to show their frantic delight at any exhibition of
brutal ferocity. This _yell_ is greatly gloried in, and vaunted to be
far more terrible than that of _any other_ tribe--that by it _alone_,
when raised upon the air by fierce bands, English Barbarians have
routed armed hosts!
When one is in the narrow seas of the English, very many vessels may
be seen, and near the coasts fleets of fishing craft. The fishermen
live in great poverty, in miserable villages by the seaside. They
use lines and snares, sometimes like ours, but are not so ingenious
in catching the sea-creatures as are our fishermen. They have never
trained birds to the work. Their huts are noisome, and their habits
and dress unclean. They wear a curious cover upon the head, like a
basin, with a long wide flap behind. This is all besmeared with a
thick, black oil--and their clothing is stiff and nasty with the same
unctuous stuff. The oil is to exclude the sea-spray and wet. Their
speech is nearly unintelligible to the _Literati_, though comprehended
by their own _Caste_; they are of the lowest--serfs. Multitudes of
these rude and unlettered Barbarians perish amid the waves in the
storms of winter--being forced to imperil their lives that they may
live _at all_. They are quite a feature in some parts, with their
awkward uncouthness. They are addicted to the grossest superstitions of
_the_ Superstition. They have many legends about the dark _devil-god_,
and swear by _him_ mostly. They seem to think to cheat him--though they
cautiously observe those things which may entrap them, and nothing
would tempt them to put to sea on the _devil's day_--Friday. To do so,
would be to go to the _devil's Locker_ (as they call it) at once! This
class is similar to the sailor [mat-le-si] known in our ports, and the
character may therefore be fairly judged. The fisherman, in fact, often
changes into the ships and goes upon distant voyages.
There are no mountains, only pretty high hills, in the English
provinces. The loftiest are in the far Northern parts, where are also
some small lakes. In the winter these loftier ridges of land are
sometimes white with snow. The inhabitants are savages, having their
legs naked and bodies wrapped about in loose robes and skins, secured
by a belt, into which a knife is stuck, and to which a long leather
pouch is hung. In this pouch they place some dry corn [matze], which,
with strong wine in a bottle suspended from the neck, enables them to
live for days. Thus equipped, they descend to the valleys, and drive
off to their haunts in the rocky hills the cattle of the more civilised
people of the plains.
The English Barbarians have never conquered these fierce tribes of the
Northern hills, but have contrived gradually to destroy and to remove
them. So that, at present, what few remain are quite tamed. A great
many, in times past, were cunningly betrayed to the English and put to
the sword; but, in latter days, the _head-chiefs_ have been bought by
the English, and used to entice their ignorant but devoted serfs to
enter into the armed bands to be sent beyond seas. By these methods,
those distant Northern parts have been, in good degree, depopulated and
made quiet.
The Low-Castes furnish the fierce savages so well known in our
Celestial Waters as those who live in the great fire-ships.
Now, when the English tribe, being in need of many men for these ships
(just about to go away to plunder and to fight), determines to have
them, this follows:--Strong, brutal men, are paid to watch for the poor
of the Low-Caste, and seize them. These cruel wretches are armed with
clubs and swords and small firearms. They are sent into the places
where the poor and friendless abound, to seize any man whom they think
they can carry off without much _fuss_ [pung]. The poor cower and hide
away; but these savage bands hunt them out, and bear off from wife and
children, it may be, or from any chance of succour, some unfriended
man to their dreadful dens. Here they are beaten, or put in irons, or
otherwise maltreated; or they may have been brutally knocked down when
captured. When gangs [twi-sz] are collected, the victims are forced
on board the fire-ships to work in the dark, filthy holes, till,
completely cowed, they are made to fire the great cannons, and to learn
the art of sailing and fighting!
Many of these slaves of selfish, cruel force, never see their own
land again, but are killed in fight, or by accident, or by disease.
Multitudes sometimes perish by a single disaster. These are, however,
fortunate. They have escaped the brutal whipping, the loathsome
diseases, the vile contagions, the inexpressible horrors of a continued
captivity!
By these _press-gangs_ (so-called) the fire-ships are often supplied
with victims snatched from the unprotected Low-Castes; and the Upper
enjoy the idle and luxurious security which they rob from the blood and
limbs of the friendless and obscure.
This unjust custom, frightful in every aspect, receives the approbation
and applause of the Barbarians very generally, who say, "Let the
fellows thank their _stars_ that they can receive the Queen's money
and fight _for_ her! Then look at the chance for _prize_!" By _prize_,
they mean some pitiful fraction of the plunder taken. The _stars_ are
referred to, because the Barbarians fancy that everybody is born under
the influence of some star!
I once noticed a painting, wherein a young man and maiden were
represented as just leaving a Temple, where they had been married. Both
were nicely dressed, young and handsome, with roses and _nosegays_
[bong-no]. They were walking arm-in-arm, happily engrossed in each
other, when, from an alley, out springs a black-whiskered _bully_
[kob-bo] with drawn cutlass, followed by a band of half-drunken, armed
wretches, wearing the sea-garb of the Queen; he grasps the young man
roughly by the collar--the picture attempts to show the indignant
surprise of the man, the clinging tenderness, fear, and horror of the
maid! But more striking to an observing stranger than even these, is
the merely passing curiosity of the people moving about! The scene to
them is not so novel. It is merely a _press-gang_ doing its lawful
work--if, by chance, a wrong sort of man be seized, it is none of the
affair of these indifferent passers.
Probably, the picture means to excite some compassionate interest by
showing how _very hard_ the press-gang system may work!
It would be vain to call the least attention to the matter, if the
victim were merely a common labourer; even the accessories of wife and
children would not raise the scene into one of compassion. Nor does the
representation, for one moment, cause any reflection upon a _system_
wherein _bullies_ [kob-toe] are employed to waylay and carry off
unbefriended and unoffending men, at so much _per head_! For, besides
the regular pay, a reward is given for each victim captured!