OF AMUSEMENTS, GAMES, AND SPECTACLES.
When the lowest-caste takes a _holiday_, decent people keep away from
the place of resort, as they would from pestilence. The coarseness,
indecency, and uncleanliness are too revolting. Not that they really
differ in the ways of enjoying themselves; but from their personal
brutishness.
The remarks following refer to those above them, and to the great body
of the _people_, when at spectacles and public resorts.
To me, unaccustomed to it, the presence of women everywhere perplexed
and surprised. In days of sports, eating, drinking beer, gin, and
other drinks, romping of the sexes, and an incessant restlessness, are
very noticeable. In the open grounds, all kinds of sports and games
are going on; women and men dance, whirl about upon seats, rush after
and chase each other, swing in swings, all in a wild revelry! There
will be games where the woman is now pursued, and now the man; and now
shouting, screaming, giggling, struggling and kissing, men and women
rush after each other, catch each other; and then, reforming in ranks,
go through the same wild pranks again.
The chief out-door sports are horse-racing, boat-racing, hunting upon
horseback, bats and balls, foot-races, and the like. In-door: the
theatres, the dancing-halls, the circus, and a great variety of shows
and spectacles. Women attend upon all, and take a part in all--or
nearly all. In the theatre, the circus, the dances, and many other
places and things, they take the most conspicuous parts.
Horse-racing is esteemed as the greatest of all spectacles; and
ranks as worthy of a national support. The Highest-Castes--even the
Sovereign--attend. The Law-making Houses, the Great Officers of
Administration, and the High-Bonzes, leave the duties of their exalted
rank, and postpone the making and ordering of the Laws, to attend the
_Races_. The Illustrious wives, daughters, and female relatives--even
royalty--hasten to them, and esteem them as the best of all sports.
Every Caste--thieves, beggars, jugglers, the very _scum_ of the
cities; _loafers_, vagrants--rich, poor; men, women, children--every
description of person, rush or crawl to the _Races_. Every sort of
vehicle, every mode of conveyance is used: on horseback, on foot;
in any way, the enormous multitudes crowd to the _Races_--it is the
English Saturnalia (as an ancient Roman festival, noted for its
licentiousness, was called)--I have heard the word _punned_ [jo-akd]
_Satan-ail'ye_, by jesters--meaning the _Devil is in it_. Not a bad
notion, having reference to the evil effects of the sport.
On both sides of the space where the horses are to run, immense
numbers of carriages of all descriptions, booths, stands and seats,
are arranged, where the vast crowds stand, or sit, pushing, elbowing;
whilst the horses are _trotted_ out, and the _race_ is duly prepared.
At length, a great many horses, ridden by little men, looking like
Apes, rush off at a signal; spurred, whipped, urged by the riders into
madness, with eyes bloodshot, and nostrils distended, and every cord
and muscle starting out and straining--whilst the multitudes of men and
women stand up, shouting, leaping, screaming with excitement--sweep
like a whirlwind along the course, and pass the goal! And thousands
of gold are lost and won! By as little as a head, or a neck, one of
the horses is declared to be winner! The name of the horse is sent
all over the Barbarian world, and the _event_ is watched for by
millions--because bets are made, not only upon the ground, but in every
part.
I can hardly explain to the people of our Central Kingdom, the
excitement and the confusion of this scene. The most illustrious men
and women are present; the great Bonzes are there--all classes, the
lowest and highest, jumbled together, if not in contact, all carried
away by the same wild passion. About the splendid equipages of the
rich, mere human vermin crawl and fight for the crumbs and bones which
fall, or are thrown from the feasting women and men, carousing in the
carriages. In these, beautiful women laugh and bet with the men, drink
the wines, and exchange a hundred smiles and jokes. Betting books are
opened, and the women take bets and plunge into the vortex of the
phrensy. The race is over, and thousands are impoverished, many utterly
ruined.
With us the Theatre is merely a public, out-door spectacle, of no
importance, amusing the ordinary crowd, and free from immorality. Women
take no part in the representations--boys, dressed as females, playing
for women. But with the Barbarians the Theatre is an organisation of
government, and receives the highest support. Women act, and are more
popular with the spectators than the men.
The first in estimation is the _Opera_. In this representation, as I
have said in another place, the action goes on, all in _Singing_. To
me nothing could be more ludicrous, more in defiance of all reason and
nature. The most terrible emotions--fear, hate, envy, as well as the
tender; love, affection, friendship--all sung, and not merely sung, but
bellowed, screamed, shrieked, in every contortion of throat and mouth!
In the Tragic performance the fierceness of the Barbarians delights
in dreadful murders, plots, assassinations; in things which tear and
lacerate human feelings, and bring despair and death!
The Comic is as coarse in loose _buffoonery_ [Kro-sen-to-se] as the
tragic is for an extreme of agony, based upon crime and baseness.
But the most astonishing of all the representations upon the Stage
is the _Ballet_. I should not dare nor desire to refer to this, were
it not to illustrate a point in the Barbarian character, only too
prominent; and to give further cause to the people of our _Flowery
Land_ to be thankful to the Sovereign Lord, that He has not permitted
such mark of degeneracy to stain us.
The Ballet is supervised by a very High-Caste Lord. It is composed of
a band of young women, selected for beauty of form and of limb. They
appear in public nearly naked, or so clothed in tightest hose [ki-i-e]
and draped in thinnest diaphanous fabric, that what is concealed is
half disclosed and more piquant than if left uncovered. Troops of
these appear--dazzling in white or pink--upon the stage-floor. Before
they show themselves to the public, however, they parade, one by one
(as I was truly informed), before the High-Caste Supervisor of the
Ballet, who, with his assistants, duly examines the legs, arms, busts,
and drapery, to see if all be in due order. The drapery is carefully
measured to see if it be of the required length, and, if too short,
must be extended to the knees. Not to cover anything, but to satisfy
a pretence. For these transparent fabrics, aside from _that_ quality,
are so contrived that they float off from the body and limbs with
every movement--and the motions studied are those which produce this
effect--twirling around rapidly being a chief feat. When the High-Caste
is satisfied that there be nothing to offend the most delicate, and
that all the demands of a pure _Christ-god_ morality are satisfied, he
sends the young girls to the stage, and they appear in the _Ballet_.
This is a dance--why should I say more. But consider this dance is
before the highest and best--in an immense and brilliantly lighted,
lofty house. There are vast crowds, seated upon a level with, or just
below the stage--in rows, one row above another, forming a grand
half-circle, from the floor to the dome; so high, that the faces
cannot be distinguished. Then the rich and glittering decorations; the
paintings, the sculptures, the music!
The music of innumerable instruments strikes up. In come the troops
of half-naked girls; their busts, their legs exposed. In they come,
leaping, dancing, twirling, whirling, flying! They twirl around on
the toes like tops. They spin on a single toe, sticking out the other
leg--and, in this attitude, revolve about! They retreat, advance,
stoop, go backward, forward; twisting, twirling, throwing themselves,
their arms, and particularly their legs, into all possible positions;
whirling about on one leg and extending the other, being the most
admired feat! This is (very faint) the _Ballet_!
Mothers, wives, husbands, daughters, sons, lovers, maidens, look upon
this spectacle--and pray for the benighted Heathen!
Englishmen often remarked to me, jocosely, "Ah-Chin--no like the
Ballet--why, the Theatre nowadays _stands_ on Legs!"
It is a fact that, in those times which the Barbarians call _dark_,
when ignorance and brutality marked the whole aspect of common life,
the _instinct_ of decency prevented women from appearing on the Stage
at all. It is quite a modern invention.
The Circus is another favourite show. In this, women appear, ride
the horses, fly in the air, walk upon ropes tightly drawn above the
spectators, and form a main feature. They make the same study of
exposing themselves, and are undressed like the women in the _Ballet_.
They give to the performance the same kind of stimulus, to which is
added the further excitement of danger. For in leaping, flying through
the air, vaulting, and walking upon the tight-rope high above the
spectators; the probability of a broken back, or neck, gives a new
sensation.
In the warm weather, the English Barbarians find great amusement in
crowding to the Sea. Here, little houses placed on wheels are trundled
into the waves. From these, women, men, and children wade, and plash
and dive into the water. The women, and even children, often swim
very well--the men nearly all. The two sexes bathe quite near, or
together, in full sight of the people on the shore. Here, on the
sands, thousands are walking, sitting, and lounging about, amusing
themselves in the idlest sports. The men in the water are, with the
exception of a mere loin-cloth, naked. The women, though tolerably
covered, yet so carelessly that, with the motions of the bath and
waves, they are sufficiently exposed! In these sea-bathing places you
will see Barbarian life in all its rudeness, and love of boisterous
fun and frolic. The men, and women, and children, abandon themselves
to eating, drinking, bathing in the sea-water; to sports and games; to
dancing, sight-seeing, and _match-making_. The last is the pursuit of
husband-catching, which the free-and-easy life at the sea-side greatly
facilitates.
Boat-races--sailing boats, and boats rowed or paddled--take place
at these sea-side places, and are greatly admired. They are
unobjectionable, and natural to a maritime tribe.
A strange feature is to see women go fearlessly into boats, and,
hustled with the men, enjoy the excitement of the wind and wave,
to witness these races, or merely for the frolic--but women are
everywhere!
The Cattle Shows are characteristic. Here, fat cattle, sheep, fat
swine, fine horses, poultry, tools used in tillage, fruit and
vegetables, are shown; and the best receive prizes. Only a few of the
High-Castes attend these, and then merely as a form. The real support
comes from the farmers; and from the _Lower-Castes_. These crowd to
the show, paying at the doors, merely for frolic and fun. Open to late
hours at night, with music, lights, and places for eating and drinking,
the mixed crowd of men and women delight in the hustling, crowding. The
usual beer and other drinks are ready; the usual giggling of women,
surging, and elbowing, and pushing about! One wonders much, whether the
fat animals are not more respectable than the animals which crowd about
them! But I can hardly fairly judge of the real _character_ of the
crowds, for they are too novel and too offensive to the habits of our
Flowery Land. It is certain, however, that the Barbaric element always
perverts the most useful things; and a Cattle Show must be debased and
turned aside from its proper objects. What have the women and men, who
push and surge about the brutes, of interest in the thing? Nothing.
They may know and care for sheep, when _roasted_, or for fat swine,
when in the shape of a _rasher_ [fri-ie-tz].
The most curious, and, perhaps, most important of out-door scenes is
the _Hustings_. When there is a vacant place in the Lower-Law-House (of
the great Council), the Sovereign commands a new member to be chosen
by those who have the right, in the town entitled to send. A sort of
stage is put up in the market-place, and here those meet who are to
be _hustled_ for. Hustings comes from this word, and means _to shake
together in confusion_. There are some who wish to send A., others
who wish to send B. Accordingly, these are seized by their struggling
supporters; each side endeavouring to put upon the stage _its_ man,
and each trying to put off the man of the other side! One may judge
of the _hustling_. Each candidate submits to every sort of indignity.
The _hustlers_ (voters, generally called) are chiefly of the Lower
(not Lowest) Caste, and enjoy this privilege mightily. Beyond the
immediate actors are the associates of the two parties--not having a
right to _hustle_; but, none the less, aiding in the general struggle,
by pelting with rotten eggs, garbage, or other harmless (sometimes not
harmless) nastiness [phu-fo], the man whom they dislike. Finally, one
of the men is got upon the stage; entitled to be the new member for
having had the larger number of _indignities_ put upon him, and come
out a-top! These are--to have the head-covering driven violently down
over the face--to be befouled with stinking eggs and garbage, and all
the time to say, "_Free and independent voters_," accompanied by bows
and grimaces, intended for _smiles_!
If the Lower-House, however, find on examination that some one has
hustled twice--that is, thrown two missiles, then the scene must be
rëenacted! For it is thought to be too dangerous to allow of this
unfairness. If one could do this on the one side, then it would be
done on the other; and in the excitement, things harder than mud would
be thrown, to the danger of life! As to the outside throwers, the
police take care that they do not exceed mud, filth, rotten eggs, and
vegetables!
When the new member is chosen, he is called upon by his supporters
to thank them in a speech. He rises to do this, and, bowing, says,
"I am powerless to express my grateful sense of the honour. _Free
and independent voters_"--at this moment a half-drunken supporter
of the defeated man gives the signal. The rotten egg has fairly hit
the new member in the face; the crowd on the one side and on the
other rush in _pell-mell_; the stage is broken down; stones, sticks,
clubs, brickbats, are used and fly about freely; noses bleed; heads
are cracked; oaths and yells arise! The new member, surrounded by
his supporters, finally conquers; and, placed in a chair, is lifted
by strong arms to the shoulders of sturdy men, who bear him to his
illustrious house, where his exalted wife and noble friends receive him
with delight. The tumultuous crowd are feasted by the Servants; and,
finally, yelling and shouting for _my Lord_--the new member--he appears
at a lofty window above them, thanks them once more, and disappears.
The rabble leave the place, the gates are closed, and my lord and lady
can congratulate themselves and be congratulated that the _farce_ is
over. Power and influence remain with them--_the indignities are all
washed off_--it is merely English humour.
In these Hustings the Illustrious wives and daughters, as well as all
male relatives, take part, and are obliged to take their share of the
_indignities_. The dirty child of a low-caste (who happens to have a
right to _hustle_) will be taken upon the silken lap of _my Lady_, and
feel boldly in my Lady's pocket for pennies; and the daughter of my
Lady sits down upon the stool and feeds the hungry _old hag_ of aged
poverty. The old hag being ill, and mother to the _hustler_. In this
way, and on these rather infrequent occasions, the bold Englishman of
Low-Caste vindicates his manhood and shows his power in the State. But
it is a mere form. The High-Castes understand the Barbaric temper, and
consider this mode of amusing it the cheapest and least inconvenient.
There is a struggle sometimes for the new membership between
individuals, but these are always of the High-Caste connection and
order. Actual power does not exist in the hustling rabble--_that_ is in
the High-Caste. Nevertheless, sometimes the _Hustlers_ can determine
which of two shall be sent; and, therefore, it is necessary, when more
than one desires to go, to submit to the _hustling_. Nearly all the
worst _indignities_ are omitted when only one person is named. In this
case, all the hustlers being of a mind, they do not inflict more than
the _accustomed_ indignities, which are moderate in comparison; though
one would think sufficiently humiliating.
In the civic processions, which occur when a new magistrate is
appointed to a city, one observes how the old barbaric features still
predominate. Like children those things are most esteemed which grown
people disdain or laugh at. Rude force and the emblems of it; men
absurdly accoutred in old, fantastic arms and armour; banners which
once marshalled trained men to war; gilt and golden vehicles, conveying
priests and officials; these carrying glittering baubles in their hand;
loud music and bands of curiously dressed braves; these things delight
the multitude, which comes swarming out from every hole and corner
of the city. Such crowds of both sexes, with children even in arms!
Nowhere out of these Barbaric and populous tribes can such a spectacle
be seen. The vast throngs rush and push about, and woe to that decent
man who gets entangled among them! Often the selfish, reckless hordes,
rushing through some street with a new purpose, overwhelm and crush
every moving thing in the way.
Women, children, strong men, are often thrown down, maimed; even killed
outright! Thieves, beggars, the indescribable _scum_ of degraded
humanity, mixed with the crowd (in its own character but little removed
from lowest debasement), give it an air of unspeakable disgust!
Of these Civic Spectacles, _a Coronation_ is supreme. This only takes
place when a new Sovereign is crowned. No one is admitted to the actual
Ceremony but the highest of the High-Castes. The common people, who
bear nearly all the taxes to pay for the enormous cost, must be content
to get such glimpses of the passing pageant, as is possible to them, at
the risk of limb and of life. The whole thing is so guarded by armed
bands, on horseback and on foot, with fire-arms ready, and swords
drawn, that it is only by rushing close to the horsemen, and pressing
upon the foot-braves, that any glimpse can be got by the common
multitude; and for these mere glances--under the bellies of horses, or
between their legs, or through some iron railings, or the like--the
devoted barbarians will risk their lives. Such is the admiration which
this great show attracts!
It is thus admired, not only because of the awfulness of the CROWN,
but also because the Idolatry plays so large a part in it. The new King
is always crowned by a Highest Bonze, in his costly priestly robes, and
anointed with _holy_ oil; whilst the _Sacred Writings_ and Incantations
are duly read and uttered! The worship of Christ-Jah and the other
gods, are all pledged, together with all the Canons and beliefs,
including the Divine Revelation of the Jewish _Sacred Writings_; in
fact, the ceremony, in the Priestly part, is Jew throughout!
The scene is characteristically barbaric. Force, and glittering
display; all the jewels, the gewgaws, the golden rods, orbs, bowls,
sticks; the spears, swords, steel armour, helmets; the robes, furs,
silks, velvets; jewelled garters for the legs; ornamented chains in
gold, for the neck; coronets, for the hereditary _nobles_ [Hi-fi];
cassocks, gowns, mitres, staffs; scarlet and crimson cloths, cloaks,
and waving plumes of the great braves; men in steel, on horseback--all
these things, and a thousand more! With the grand women, and the High
Lords! all are present. All is show and glitter; and childish! In the
midst, out there rides a man, all covered with steel armour, with a
long and flashing spear, who, sitting proudly on his horse, looks
defiance! A trumpet sounds; another dashes forward, and proclaims
the new Monarch; then the first, with a loud voice, defies to mortal
combat any one who dares to challenge the right of the proclaimed
Sovereign--and, thereupon, throws down a glove [kang]. If any one
should pick up the glove, it would imply an acceptance of the
challenge. No one takes up the glove. The trumpets sound, the music
strikes up in a hundred places; the vast multitude cry and shout,
"_Long live the renowned, the exalted, the Illustrious!_"--and the
new-crowned man is King!
In this barbaric display, the money expended is enormous in amount.
The jewels and mere inanities are so costly that, put to proper use,
poverty would scarcely exist. Nor is this all; the High-Caste get
all the honours and emoluments, though they bear but a small part of
the expense. Many of this Caste hold _hereditary_ offices connected
with this Show, from which they derive revenue and high honour! One
may be hereditary _sword-bearer_, another _cup-bearer_, another
_towel-holder_, another _bottle-washer_. Nor is this sort of sinecure
(_name_ for frivolous, useless Service) confined to males; females
may be hereditary _folders of the Queen's night-cap_, _washers of the
baby-linen_, _keepers of the robes_, _maids of the bed-chamber_, and so
on! Still, such is the ignorance and debasement of the common people,
and even of the better classes, that, although they pay for these
expensive whimsicalities and barbarisms, and never by any chance share
in the personal benefits, _they admire them_; and believe them to be,
in some mysterious way, connected with their _glorious constitution and
privileges_!
I scarcely like to speak of the displays by the _braves_. These are
those on horseback, those on foot, those with horses, and cannons
mounted on wheels; and some who march partly, and partly ride. Our
_Flowery Kingdom_ knows these armed bands, and how rude and disorderly
they are. How they plunder and kill the defenceless, and burn and
destroy! How fierce they are, and how reckless of order, even to their
own chiefs!
But I will refer to the main display of these armed bands. Once or
twice in twelve moons, all the bands being assembled, are divided into
two parts. Each part has a great Chief at the head, with horsemen,
footmen, and those with the wheeled-cannon.
One of these Divisions is sent to a distance, and the other is kept at
hand. Then the one near is commanded to act as if the distant force was
an enemy, who, having landed, was marching into the country to subdue
it. In this way, it is intended to teach the armed bands to march,
countermarch, hide, seek, advance, retreat, get into ambuscade, get
out of it, rush up hills, rush down hills, cross rivers, make bridges,
construct roads; _pretend_ to blow up and to construct earth-forts;
_pretend_ to charge, to fire, to shoot, to rush with horses, to swiftly
move and fire the cannons, each against the other; to skirmish in
small squads [kong], and fight in large bands--in fine, to carry on a
_Military campaign_ (as the Barbarians term this prodigious nonsense).
Some one said to me, "A very _sham pain_." It seemed to me no sham to
the soldiers--so far as _toil_ is concerned.
How, in carrying out this tomfoolery [hen-di-ho-ty], bands of armed
men may be seen scattered over a wide range of country. Smoke of
fire-arms and reports of the cannons may be seen and heard, in
different parts--and a quiet traveller may be surprised to see suddenly
a band of men, armed, rapidly approaching, with the bright steel
glistening in the sun; and, levelling these steel-spears affixed to the
fire-arms, see them rush, _pell-mell_, upon a row of bushes, firing
and shouting--then, suddenly recoiling, rush back and hurry to shelter
behind some _other row_! Then cannon will bang, and smoke will rise
from among trees near the place; and the horses will be seen advancing
rapidly, dragging after them the cannon, which, being planted on a
hill, fire and bang away; then, all at once, some great braves, with
feathers flying, and swords flashing, will rush directly upon the
cannon, even right into the mouths!
Then _pell-mell_ other horsemen, cutting and slashing with long swords,
and firing off little fire-arms, will be seen; and soon long lines of
foot-braves will appear among the trees and bushes, and some will rush
upon the others, and others rush upon them, firing and banging away,
in a manner very surprising; and this is a _sham-fight_. Sometimes
the braves get so excited that they really do fight in good earnest.
As there is nothing but powder in the fire-arms, the danger is in
the swords and spears, which are sometimes so used in the heat and
excitement that many braves are really hurt.
When all is over the head braves of the two forces make Reports of the
doings of their respective divisions, complimenting the braves and the
head men upon their discipline and order.
On one occasion the Royal Prince and his attendants rode directly upon
the mouths of a battery of cannon. Now the whole idea of the _Sham_
is that everybody is to conduct himself precisely _as if_ the doings
were real. Any head-brave who forgets this is disorderly and liable to
punishment. What would have been the fate of the Royal party had the
cannon which they rode directly upon, been charged with balls as well
as powder! It is not to be found, however, that the Great Brave in his
Report referred to this extraordinary exploit of the Royal Prince.
With an enemy, real, deadly, strong, advancing into the country, then
indeed the braves would have work which would stir all their wits and
nerve all their strength. Marches in rain and mud; toilsome nights;
work in the ditches; cold and biting winds; wakeful and wearisome
watchings; all endured manfully, and hardly noticed _because it is
real_. Even a pauper disdains make-believe toil, and takes the pittance
tendered for it as an insult. To the common man all this labour and
exposure is very hard and very real--all the more so, because it is
mere noise and smoke. No wonder that he is careless and indifferent; no
wonder that he curses the nonsense which wearies him without giving him
any satisfaction. Show him true, honest need; where the enemy of his
tribe lurks, and he is alert, active; calls up all his intelligence,
looks to his arms, looks about him, and feels no fatigue. But this--he
loses discipline, and is really demoralised by a _Sham_.
Still the Barbarians greatly admire all this noise and blustering;
and the Head-Braves fancy that the bands are improved in order and
in knowledge of arms; that they would really understand how to meet
a genuine enemy more skilfully, by having _made-believe_ to fight a
friend. All human experience shows the opposite of this to be true;
for the _sham_ is certain to _entail_ some of its mischief and injure
the very qualities which it is supposed to improve. In the nature of
things this affair cannot be good. The object is a sham--everything,
therefore, about it is sham. The fight is a sham, and the fighter is a
sham-brave, and, therefore, worthless. Who doubts that he is injured by
this pitiful work?
When these armed bands march in the displays made on public occasions,
then, knowing that they are doing true work with a true object, they
enter into it with spirit. Every man feels himself to be a part of a
fine whole, and interests himself to do his best. These displays of the
numerous armed men, marching with banners, bright swords and spears,
with cannon, great troops of horses, long columns of glittering steel
flashing in the sun, with brilliant coverings and gay colours, and
the loud clanging music--these attract great multitudes. Whilst the
High-Caste Braves, on grand horses, clothed in bright armour and steel,
prance about and order the bands of braves. All are quiet and orderly,
and preserve due restraint. One would not know that these are the same
turbulent, untrained, reckless, and cruel plunderers and murderers, who
devastate the homes of peaceful people beyond the seas.
I did not see the big fire-ships, for it was not permitted to me. Or
rather it would have been very uncomfortable indeed, for the rude and
insolent Barbarians in the ships know nothing of ordinary politeness
and civility. They jeer my illustrious country and people, and mock at
us with the brutality of conceited and barbaric ignorance. I was told
that the big ships perform a great many movements, firing off the great
cannons, and moving about each other, and pretending to fight--in this
way to teach the head officers and the men how to manage the vessels,
and how to fire the enormous guns, and how to shoot the big balls and
fire-bombs, and other horrible things, in the most destructive way.
Sometimes an old vessel is allowed to float on the waves, and the
fire-ships shoot off the cannon balls against the hull, to see how soon
they can destroy, burn, or sink it. Sometimes they send against it a
curious machine filled with gun-powder, which, sinking under the old
hull, suddenly blows up, raising the great mass entirely out of the
sea, and utterly destroying it! So ingenious are these fierce tribes of
the West in all contrivances for the destruction of mankind!