"Done with indoor complaints, libraries, querulous criticism,
Strong and content, I travel the open road."
So the librarians assembled aboard the "Saguenay." The day in
Montreal had been a full and pleasant one and its evening found the
post-conference party tired but tranquilly expectant of the joys the
boat's departure was to bring. To this some excitement was lent by
the dash on board, just as the gangplank was going in, of the New
Jersey Library Commission contingent who had lingered too long at the
reception tendered the A. L. A. on the White Star liner "Megantic."
Many friendly farewells were waved by the A. L. A. members whose
official travels ended at Montreal. As the boat started for Quebec,
deck chairs were soon filled by those who wished to watch the noble
sweep of the river and the graceful skyline of the city with its
myriads of lights.
During the short stop at Quebec the next morning only a few strenuous
ones ventured ashore. The majority were content with the splendid view
of the city with its frowning precipice crowned by the Citadel and the
graceful pile of the Chateau Frontenac, below which were spread the
picturesque roofs of the Lower Town. It was the Fourth of July and
after the flags flourished by the patriotic members of the party had
been duly saluted, everyone settled down to the calm enjoyment of a
safe and sane fourth. The boat glided past the falls of Montmorency,
the lovely Isle of Orleans, the wooded shores of the river where in
one place forest fires raged, showing a thin tongue of flame under a
hovering cloud of smoke, and on from the stately grandeur of the St.
Lawrence to the wild beauty of the Saguenay. It was here that the real
business of travel began. Baedekers made their unblushing appearance,
most of them bearing on their backs the mystic symbols 917.1. The maps
and guidebooks provided by the company were studied while the really
"litry" were turning the pages of "A chance acquaintance" or "The
golden dog."
At half past six, a landing was made at L'Anse St. Jean but word was
given that the real village was some distance beyond, a nice walk--from
British standards! A gay start was made but the muddiness of the road
and the "recedingness" of the village combined with the ravages of
the black fly, which Van Dyke has truly said is "at the bottom of the
moral scale of insects," caused even the most valiant to turn back.
There were a few who with true Yankee enterprise chartered the only
vehicles in sight and came back with glowing tales of the quaintness
and charm of the village, but for the majority, it must remain the fair
Carcassonne of dreams.
The great Capes of Trinity and Eternity, towering up through the gloom,
were passed after nightfall. A searchlight thrown on them from the boat
brought out their craggy inaccessibility and made weirdly impressive
the statue of the Virgin on one of the terraces of Trinity. At Ha Ha
Bay few were up in time for exploring but the view of the charming
Bay was to be had from the deck or even from conveniently located
staterooms. It had been suggested that here opportunity would be given
anglers to make the acquaintance of the "unsophisticated fish" of the
region, but if any wonderful catches were made, no stories of them
floated to the ears of the feminine contingent. Turning back from here
the boat passed through the most striking part of the journey, stopping
for some time around the capes of Trinity and Eternity. To attempt
to describe the scenic beauties of the trip would be to attempt what
was admirably done by the chronicler of the post conference of 1900
(see Proceedings A. L. A. 1900, pp. 174-182.) The pleasing pastime of
trying to hit the sides of the capes with rocks thrown from the boat
was indulged in by a few of the passengers. Howells tells us that his
uninspired hero actually did it. And that was forty years ago! The
origin of this custom might be an interesting question for a class in
library economy to investigate.
The hours spent at Tadousac will be pleasantly enshrined in the book
of memory. The air was fresh and cool and many came and went visiting
the salmon hatcheries, and the ancient chapel, strolling through the
picturesque streets where they were met with kindly hospitality by the
_habitants_, or driving through the balsam scented woods.
Leaving these pleasant shores, a few hours brought the boat to Murray
Bay, where the night was spent. Every one started out for a walk in
the morning, but the road led past the shops dealing in homespun, and
there was a general halt. These characteristic raids sometimes cause
one to pause and wonder whether the greater pleasure of traveling comes
from adding new and beautiful slides to our mental collection or new
articles of vertu to our domestic equipment. Those who did get beyond
the shops were rewarded by a walk through a straggling French village
with quaint views and picturesque glimpses most enticing to the amateur
photographer. A number also with true tourist thoroughness visited the
former summer home of the President of the United States and even took
snap-shots on his front steps.
All met for luncheon at the Manoir Richelieu, a meal well served and
good. A round of applause was given Captain Koenig as he joined the
party and another was given Mr. Gould, the perfect host, whose kindness
and thoughtfulness will long be remembered by those whom he personally
conducted.
After luncheon vehicles of all kinds, including that most fascinating
of all, the calèche, waited to take the party to the Falls. The drive
through a beautiful country with fields of clover and daisies and
hedges of wild pink roses ended at a pulp mill, where the interesting
process of converting the virgin forest into wood pulp was viewed.
Beginning at the front door where the bales of pulp were taking their
departure, the party went back step by step. To achieve the last a
steep chute had to be ascended and the perils of descent seemed so
great that nearly all preferred to go around and cross back by some
stepping stones. The water was not deep but the stepping stones were
small. There may have been other falls but if there were, no one seems
to have seen them.
That night was a gay one on board the "Saguenay." It was the
culmination of the delightful evenings spent around the piano with
music, songs and story telling. At the command of Mr. Bowker who,
with his charming wife, made admirable masters of ceremonies on these
occasions, in accordance with the precedent set twelve years before by
the A. L. A. post conference, all purchases of homespun, coverlets,
rugs, and dress patterns were brought out and hung over the gallery
rail for a loan exhibit. After they had been duly inspected a war
dance was led by Miss Askew, the participants being each clad in his
respective purchases. Stories, songs and charades followed and the
evening ended in singing the following choice composition to the tune
of the "Little Brown Jug."
The A. L. A.'s started one day,
To explore the Saguenay,
Young and old, gay and grim
Twenty-five hers to every him.
Ha Ha Bay, A. L. A.,
Sailing up the Saguenay,
Ha Ha Bay, A. L. A.,
Each from his own library!
Oh, Mr. Gould from Montreal,
Our genial host, beloved of all,
We'll rue the day when we must say
Farewell to you and Saguenay.
During the next two days in Quebec, librarians circulated themselves
freely, the torrid heat seeming to cause no appreciable falling off.
On Sunday morning various church services were attended, many going
to the Basilica. Nearly every one found opportunity to visit the
principal sights,--Dufferin Terrace, the Plains of Abraham (where early
impressions gathered from school histories of the hazard of Wolfe's
climb were somewhat modified), and the lower town, and many, like true
"debtors of their profession" visited the library of Laval University.
Luncheon was enjoyed on both days at the Chateau Frontenac.
On Sunday afternoon, a much appreciated hospitality was extended the
American Library Association by Mr. and Mrs. Henry Porteous, seigneurs
of the Isle of Orleans, who entertained with a delightful garden party
in their beautiful grounds and gardens. In the evening many found
their way to Dufferin Terrace to listen to the music and watch Quebec
promenade by.
Monday morning the party was received by Alderman Collier, in the
absence of the Mayor, who extended a courteous welcome and after that a
street car ride around the city was enjoyed by the party as guests of
the City of Quebec.
In the afternoon a special train was chartered to take the party to the
church of St. Anne de Beaupré. A courteous priest acted as guide and
carefully explained all the wonders of this miraculous shrine. On the
return trip the falls of Montmorency and Kent House were visited.
It was with great regret in spite of the heat, that farewell was said
to this most picturesque of cities. Good-byes were said the next
morning in Montreal and each went on his separate way with the feeling
that the past week had been one of pleasure and rich experience long to
be remembered.