The expedition traces the west shores of Lake Michigan southerly to
Chicago--Outline of the journey along this coast--Sites of
Manitoowoc, Sheboigan, Milwaukie, Racine, and Chicago, being the
present chief towns and cities of Wisconsin and Illinois on the
west shores of that Lake--Final reorganization of the party and
departure from Chicago.
Two days spent in preparations to reorganize the expedition, enabled it
to continue its explorations. For the purpose of tracing the western and
northern shores of Green Bay, and the northern shores of Lake Michigan,
a sub-expedition was fitted out, under Mr. Trowbridge, our
sub-topographer, who was accompanied by Mr. J. D. Doty, Mr. Alex. R.
Chase, and James Riley, the Chippewa interpreter. The auxiliary Indians,
who had, thus far, attended us in a separate canoe, were rewarded for
their services, furnished with provisions to reach their homes, and
dismissed. The escort of soldiers under Lieut. Mackay, U. S. A., were
returned to their respective companies at Fort Howard and Camp Smith.
The Chippewa chief, _Iaba Wawashkash_, or the Buck, who belonged
to Michilimackinac, went with Mr. Trowbridge, together with Jo
Parks, the intelligent Shawnee captive, and assimilated Shawnee of
Waughpekennota,[128] Ohio. The Ottowa chief, Kewaygooshkum, of
Grand-River, took the rest of the party in a separate canoe to their
destination. Our collections in natural history were shipped in the
schooner Decatur, Capt. Burnham (Perry's boatswain in the memorable
naval battle of Lake Erie, Sept. 11, 1813), to Michilimackinac, together
with the extra baggage.
[128] WAUGHPEKENNOTA. This place was _then_ the residence of the
Shawnee tribe, under the Prophet Elksattawa, of war memory, the
celebrated brother of Tecumseh, who, seeing the intrusive tread of
the Americans, headed, in 1827, the first exploring party of the
tribe to the west of the Mississippi, where they finally settled.
After living twenty-seven years at this spot, they found themselves
within the newly-erected territory of Kansas, and sold their surplus
lands to the U. States by a treaty concluded at Washington in May,
1854, the said Parks being at this time first chief of the Shawnee
tribe.
Thus relieved in numbers and canoe-hamper, we were reduced to two
canoes; the travelling family of Gov. Cass now consisted of Capt.
Douglass, Dr. Wolcott, Maj. Forsyth, Lieut. Mackay, and myself. Leaving
Fort Howard at two o'clock P. M., we parted with Mr. Trowbridge and his
party at the mouth of Fox River, at half past two, and taking the other,
or east side of the bay, proceeded along its shores about twenty-five
miles, and encamped on the coast called Red Banks. This is a term
translated from the Winnebago name, which is renowned in their
traditions as the earliest spot which they can recollect. They dwelt
here when the French first reached Green Bay in their discoveries in the
seventeenth century. Here, then, is a test of the value and continuity
of Indian tradition, so far as this tribe is concerned, for admitting,
what is doubtful, that the French reached this point so early as 1650,
the period of recognized Winnebago history, as proved by geography,
reaches but 170 years prior to the above date.
In a short time after entering the bay, we were overtaken by
Kewaygooshkum and his party, who travelled and encamped with us. In the
course of the evening he pointed out a rocky island, at three or four
miles distance, containing a large cavern, which has been used by the
Indians from early times as a repository for the dead. The chief, as he
pointed to it, as if absorbed in a spirit of ancestral reverence, seemed
to say:--
"It hath a charm the stranger knoweth not,
It is the [sepulchre] of mine ancestry;
There is an inspiration in its shade,
The echoes of its walls are eloquent,
The words they speak are of the glorious dead;
Its tenants are not human--they are more!
The stones have voices, and the walls do live;
It is the home of memories dearly honored
By many a trace of long departed glory."
The appearance of ancient cultivation of this coast is such as to give
semblance to the Winnebago tradition of its having been their former
residence. The lands are fertile, alluvion, bearing a secondary growth
of trees, mingled with older species of the acer saccharinum, elm, and
oak.
The next day, after traversing this coast twenty miles further, we
reached and passed up Sturgeon Bay, to a portage path leading to Lake
Michigan. This path begins in low grounds, where several of the swamp
species of plants occur. On reaching the open shores of Lake Michigan,
the wind was found strongly ahead, and we were compelled to encamp. At
this spot we found several species of madreperes, and some other organic
forms, among the shore debris. The next day the wind abated, and,
agreeably to the estimate of Capt. Douglass, we advanced along the
shore, southwardly, forty-six miles. The day following, we made forty
miles, and reached the River Manitowakie,[129] and encamped on the lake
shore, five miles south of it.
[129] From _Manito_, a spirit, _auk_, a standing or hollow tree that
is under a mysterious influence, and the generic inflection _ie_,
which is applied to vital or animate nouns. A town, at present,
exists at the spot called Manitoowoc. It is the shire town of a
county of the same name in Wisconsin; it has a good harbor, and by
the census of 1850 contains four churches, twelve stores, two steam
mills, two ship-yards, a newspaper, post-office, and 2,500
inhabitants. We found the site inhabited by a village Monomonees of
six lodges.
In passing along the lake shore this day (25th), we observed it to be
strewed abundantly with the carcasses of dead pigeons. This bird, we
were told, is often overcome by the fatigue of long flights, or storms,
in crossing the lake, and entire flocks drowned. This causes the shores
to be visited by great numbers of hawks, eagles, and other birds of
prey. The Indians only make use of those carcasses of pigeons, as food,
when they are first cast on shore.
The next day the expedition passed the mouth of the Sheboigan River, a
stream originating not remotely from the banks of Winnebago Lake, with
which, as the name indicates, there is a portage or passage
through.[130] Pushing forward with every force during the day, we
reached the mouth of the Milwaukie River, and encamped on the beach some
time after dark. This is a large and important river, and is connected
by an Indian portage with the Rock River of the Mississippi. The next
morning adverse winds confined us to this spot, where we remained a
considerable part of the day, which enabled us to explore the locality.
We found it to be the site of a Pottawattomie village. There were two
American families located at that place, engaged in the Indian trade.
[130] _Shebiau_, is to look critically; _shebiabunjegun_, a spy-glass
or instrument to look through. Sheboigan appears to have its
termination from the word _gan_, a lake, and the combination denotes
a river, or water pass from lake to lake. This place is now (1854) a
town and county site of Wisconsin. The county was organized in 1839,
and by the last census has seven churches, two newspapers, 624 pupils
at schools, and a population of 8,379. The town of this name contains
2,000 inhabitants. It is 62 miles N. from Milwaukie, and 110 N. E.
from Madison, the State capital. It has a plank road of 40 miles to
Fond du Lac, and is noted for its lumber trade.
The name of Milwaukie,[131] exhibits an instance of which there are many
others, in which the French have substituted the sound of the letter _l_
in place of _n_, in Indian words. _Min_, in the Algonquin languages
signifies _good_. _Waukie_, is a derivative from _auki_, earth or land,
the fertility of the soil, along the banks of that stream, being the
characteristic trait which is described in the Indian compound.
[131] Milwaukie is the principal city of the State of Wisconsin. It
lies in latitude 43° 3´ 45´´ North. It is ninety miles north of
Chicago and seventy-five east from Madison. It contains thirty
churches, five public high schools, two academies, five orphan
asylums, and other benevolent institutions, seven daily and seven
weekly newspapers, four banks, and, by the census of 1850, 20,161
inhabitants.
When the wind lulled so as to permit embarkation, we proceeded on our
course. At the computed distance of five miles, we observed a bed of
light-colored tertiary clay, possessing a compactness, tenacity, and
feel, which denote its utility in the arts. This bed, after a break of
many miles in the shores, reappears in thicker and more massive layers,
at eight or ten miles distance. The waves dashing against this elevated
bank of clay,[132] have liberated balls and crystallized-masses of
sulphuret of iron.
[132] An admired kind of cream-colored bricks are manufactured from
portions of the clay found near Milwaukie.
Some of the more recently exposed masses of this mineral are of a bright
brass color. The tendency of their crystallization is to restore
octahedral and cubical forms. We advanced along this shore about
thirty-five miles, encamping on an eligible part of the beach before
dark. I found, in examining the mineralogy of the coast, masses of
detached limestone, containing fissures filled with asphaltum. On
breaking these masses, and laying open the fissures, the substance
assumed the form of naphtha. We observed among the plants along this
portion of coast, the tradescantia virginica, and T. liatris, and
squarrosa scariosa.[133] By scrutinizing the wave-moved pebble-drift
along shore, it is evident that inferior positions, in the geological
basin of Lake Michigan, contain slaty, or bituminous coal, masses of
which were developed.
[133] Dr. J. Torrey, _Am. Journ. Science_, vol. 4, p. 56.
The next day's journey, 28th, carried us forty miles, in which distance,
the most noticeable fact in the topography of the coast, was the
entrance of the Racine, or Root River;[134] its eligible shores being
occupied by some Pottawattomie lodges. Having reached within ten or
twelve miles of Chicago, and being anxious to make that point, we were
in motion at a very early hour on the morning of the 29th, and reached
the village at five o'clock A. M. We found four or five families living
here, the principal of which were those of Mr. John Kinzie, Dr. A.
Wolcott, J. B. Bobian, and Mr. J. Crafts, the latter living a short
distance up the river. The Pottawattomies, to whom this site is the
capital of their trade, appeared to be lords of the soil, and truly are
entitled to the epithet, if laziness, and an utter inappreciation of the
value of time, be a test of lordliness. Dr. Wolcott, being the U. S.
Agent for this tribe, found himself at home here, and constitutes no
further, a member of the expedition. Gov. Cass determined to return to
Detroit from this point, on horseback, across the peninsula of Michigan,
accompanied by Lt. Mackay, U. S. A., Maj. Forsyth, his private
secretary, and the necessary number of men and pack horses to prepare
their night encampments. This left Capt. Douglass and myself to continue
the survey of the Lakes, and after reaching Michilimackinac and
rejoining the party of Mr. Trowbridge, to return to Detroit from that
point.
[134] RACINE.--This is now the second city in size in the State of
Wisconsin. By the census of 1850, its population is 5,110. It has a
harbor which admits vessels drawing twelve feet water; it has
fourteen churches, a high school, college, bank, several newspapers,
three ship-yards, and exhibits more than two millions of imports and
exports. The settlement was commenced in 1835.
The preparation for these ends occupied a couple of days, which gave us
an opportunity to scan the vicinity. We found the post (Fort Dearborn)
under the command of Capt. Bradley, with a force of one hundred and
sixty men. The river is ample and deep for a few miles, but is utterly
choked up by the lake sands, through which, behind a masked margin, it
oozes its way for a mile or two, till it percolates through the sands
into the lake. Its banks consist of a black arenaceous fertile soil,
which is stated to produce abundantly, in its season, the wild species
of cepa, or leek. This circumstance has led the natives to name it the
place of the wild leek. Such is the origin of the term Chicago,[135]
which is a derivative, by elision and French annotation, from the word
_Chi-kaug-ong_. _Kaug_, is the Algonquin name for the hystrix, or
porcupine. It takes the prefix _Chi_, when applied to the mustela
putorius. The particle _Chi_, is the common prefix of nouns to denote
greatness in any natural object, but it is also employed, as here, to
mean increase, or excess, as acridness, or pungency, in quality. The
penultimate _ong_, denotes locality. The putorius is so named from this
plant, and not, as has been thought, the plant from it. I took the
sketch, which is reproduced in the fourth vol. of my _Ethnological
Researches_, Plate xxvii., from a standpoint on the flat of sand which
stretched in front of the place. This view embraces every house in the
village, with the fort; and if the reproduction of the artist in vol.
iv. may be subjected to any criticism, it is, perhaps, that the stockade
bears too great a proportion to the scene, while the precipice observed
in the shore line of sand, is wholly wanting in the original.
[135] CHICAGO is the largest city of the State of Illinois, excelling
all others in its commercial and business capacities, and public and
moral influences. Standing on the borders of the great western
prairies, it is the great city of the plains, and its growth cannot
be limited, or can scarcely be estimated. It began to be built about
1831, eleven years after this visit. It was incorporated as a city in
1836, with 4,853 inhabitants. In 1850, it had 29,963, and it is now
estimated to exceed 60,000. This city lies in lat. 41° 52´ 20´´. It
is connected by lakes, canals, and railroads, with the most distant
regions. Its imports and exports the last year, were twenty millions.
Like all the cities and towns of America, its political and moral
influence, are seen to keep an exact pace with its sound religious
influences; the number of churches and newspapers, having a certain
fixed relation. More than any other city of the West, its position
destines it to be another Nineveh.
The country around Chicago is the most fertile and beautiful that can be
imagined. It consists of an intermixture of woods and prairies,
diversified with gentle slopes, sometimes attaining the elevation of
hills, and it is irrigated with a number of clear streams and rivers,
which throw their waters partly into Lake Michigan, and partly into the
Mississippi River. As a farming country, it presents the greatest
facilities for raising stock and grains, and it is one of the most
favored parts of the Mississippi Valley; the climate has a delightful
serenity, and it must, as soon as the Indian title is extinguished,[136]
become one of the most attractive fields for the emigrant. To the
ordinary advantages of an agricultural market town, it must add that of
being a depot for the commerce between the northern and southern
sections of the Union, and a great thoroughfare for strangers,
merchants, and travellers.
[136] This was done in 1821; having been, myself, secretary to the
Commissioners, Gov. Cass and Hon. Sol. Sibley, who were appointed to
treat with the Indians. Vide _Indian Treaties_, p. 297.
The Milwaukie clays to which I have adverted, do not extend thus far,
although the argillaceous deposits found, appear to be destitute of the
oxide of iron, for the bricks produced from them burn white. There is a
locality of bituminous coal on Fox River, about forty miles south. Near,
the junction of the Desplaines River with the Kankakee, there exists in
the semi-crystalline or sedimentary limestone, a remarkable
fossil-tree.[137]
[137] FOSSIL FLORA OF THE WEST.--Of this gigantic specimen of the
geological flora of the newer rocks of the Mississippi Valley, I
published a memoir in 1822, founded on a personal examination of the
phenomena. Albany, E. and E. Hosford, 24 pp. 8vo. This paper (_Vide_
Appendix) was prepared for the American Geological Society, at New
Haven. See _American Journ. Science_, vol. 4, p. 285; See also, vol.
5, p. 23, for appreciating testimony of the value of geological
science (then coming into notice), from Ex-Presidents John Adams,
Thomas Jefferson, and James Madison, to whom copies of it were
transmitted.