Descent of the river from the site of Little Crow's Village to Prairie
du Chien--Incidents of the voyage, and notices of the scenery and
natural history.
The next morning we embarked at 5 o'clock. On descending the river six
miles, we passed the mouth of the St. Croix.[97] This stream heads on
high lands, which form a rim of hills around the southern and western
shores of Lake Superior, where it is connected with the River Misacoda,
or Broulè of Fond du Lac. The Namakagon, its southern branch of it, is
connected with the Maskigo,[98] or Mauvais River of La Pointe, Lake
Superior. Immediately above its point of entrance into the Mississippi
the St. Croix expands into a beautiful lake, which is some twelve miles
long, and about two in width. The borders of the Mississippi about this
point assume an increased height, and more imposing aspect. In many
places, as the voyager descends from this spot to Lake Pepin, he
observes the calcareous cliffs to terminate in pyramids; the crest of
the hills frequently resemble the crumbling ruins of antique towers. At
12 o'clock we came to the vicinity of an isolated calcareous cliff,
called La Grange, which may be regarded as one of those monuments
resulting from geological denudation, which constitute a striking
feature in the St. Peter's region. The top of this cliff affords a fine
view of the scenery of the Mississippi for a long distance above and
below it. It has been found to be three hundred and twenty-two feet
above the river.[99]
[97] This river was explored by me in 1832. Vide _Schoolcraft's
Expedition to Itasca Lake_. 1 vol. 8vo. p. 307--1834: N. Y., Harp.
[98] In 1831, this river was ascended by me with a public expedition,
dispatched into the Indian country to quell the disturbances which
eventuated the next year in the Sauk war. Vide _Schoolcraft's Thirty
Years in the Indian Country_. Lippincott, Grambo, & Co., Philad.: 1
vol. p. 703, 1851.
[99] Doc. 237.
This spot is noted as being near the site of Tarangamani, or the Red
Wing's Village. This chief is one of the notable men of his tribe. He
has been long celebrated as a man skilled as a native magician. The
village consists of four large, elongated, and of several small lodges.
Tarangamani is now considered the first chief of his nation. He is noted
for his wisdom and sagacity. He bears the marks of being sixty years of
age. His grand-daughter married Col. Crawford, a man of commercial
activity about Prairie du Chien and Michilimackinac, during the late war
of 1812, who has left descendants in the lake country. We observed, at
this village, several buffalo skins undergoing the Indian process of
dressing. The hair having been removed, they were stretched on the
ground, where they were subjected to a process analogous to tanning by
being covered with a decoction of oak bark.
In ascending the hill of La Grange, we first encountered the
rattlesnake, two of which we killed. This is the highest northern point
at which we have observed this species on the Mississippi. I observed on
this elevation small detached masses of radiated quartz,
cinnamon-colored and white, together with an ore of iron crystallized in
cubes. Having cursorily examined the environs, the expedition again
embarked. It was 1 o'clock when we entered Lake Pepin. This admired lake
is a mere expansion of the Mississippi, having a length of twenty-four
miles by a varying width of from two to four miles. During this distance
there is not the least current during calm weather. The prospects, in
passing through this expanse of water, are of the most picturesque kind.
Its immediate shores are circumscribed with a broad beach of gravel, in
which may be found rolled pieces of the chalcedonies, agates, and other
species of the quartz family, which are characteristic of the
drift-stratum of the upper borders of the Mississippi. On the eastern
shore, at a short distance from the margin, there is a lofty range of
limestone cliffs. On the west, the eye rests on an elevated formation of
prairie, nearly destitute of trees. From this plain several conical
hills ascend, which have the appearance, but only the appearance, of
artificial construction. The lake is quite transparent, and yields
several species of fish. The most remarkable of these is the _acipenser
spatularia_, of which we obtained a specimen. It is also remarkable for
its numerous varieties, and the large size of its fresh-water shells. I
procured several species of _unio_, which, from their size and
character, attracted my attention, particularly to the subject of this
branch of American conchology. Several of these, from the duplicates of
my cabinet, have attracted the attention of conchologists.[100] Lake
Pepin receives a river from the west called the Ocano, or more properly
_Au Canot_; its mouth having been, in former times, a noted place for
concealing canoes during the winter season.[101] At a point, on the east
shore, about half way down the lake, where a small stream enters, we
were informed there existed the remains of an old French fort, or
factory; but we did not land to examine them.
[100] Silliman's Journal of Science, 1823; also, Trans. Am. Phil.
Soc.
[101] Travellers who are disposed to regard La Hontan's fiction of
his purported discoveries on _Rivier la Longue_, as entitled to
notice, have suggested _this_ river as the locality intended.
Nicollet, otherwise reliable, has gone so far as to call it La Hontan
River.
In passing through this lake the interpreters pointed to a high
precipice in the cliffs on the east shore, which Indian tradition
assigns as the locality of a tragical love tale, of which a Dacota girl
was the heroine. To avoid the dilemma of being compelled to accept a
husband of repulsive character, and to sacrifice her affections for
another person, she precipitated herself down this precipice. The tale
has been so differently told to travellers visiting the region, that
nothing but the simple tradition appears worth recording. Olaita and
Winona, have been mentioned as the name of the Dacota Sappho.
At 6 o'clock in the evening we encamped on a gravelly beach on the east
shore of the lake, the weather threatening a storm. Rain commenced at 8
o'clock, and continued at intervals, with severe thunder and most vivid
flashes of lightning during the night. At 5 o'clock the next morning
(4th), the expedition was again in motion. The rain had ceased, but the
morning remained cloudy. The scenery on the borders of the lake
continued to be impressive. The precipices on the east shore shot up
into spiral points; yet the orbicular elevations are covered with grass
and shrubbery. These high grass-crowned elevations, without forest,
terminate near the influx of the Chippewa River in a remarkable isolated
elevation, called _Mont La Garde_, from the fact that it is, and long
has been, a noted look-out station for Chippewa war parties, who descend
this stream, against the Sioux. It commands an extensive view of Lake
Pepin. This lake was thought to be two miles wide opposite our last
night's encampment; it narrows to probably less than half a mile at its
mouth. The west shore along this portion of the lake consists of
singularly striking, picturesque, level, and elevated prairie lands.
Carver, in 1768, places his remains of ancient circumvallations in this
vicinity, but "some miles below Lake Pepin."[102] This was a period when
no attention had been directed to the subject of antiquities in the
United States, and his mind appears to have been impressed strongly by
what he saw. As opportunities did not allow me to land, nor was the
precise spot, indeed, known to any of our guides or men, reference can
only be made to the observations of a man who is known to have been the
first American traveller that has called attention to our western
antiquities. Mr. H. V. Hart, long a resident of this region, verbally
assures me that he has visited these works.[103]
[102] Carver's Travels, p. 30.
[103] Mr. G. W. Featherstonehaugh, in his _Geological Reconnoissance_,
in 1834, landed at the location of these antiquarian remains, and is
disposed to recognize their authenticity.
Chippewa River, just referred to, comes into the Mississippi on its left
bank, within half a mile of the foot of Lake Pepin. It is a tributary of
prime volume, draining the Chippewa territories lying around the south
and west shores of Lake Superior. Originating on the sandy tracts
extending over the elevated central plains of the Wisconsin, it brings a
large deposit of sand into the Mississippi, the navigation of which is
visibly more embarrassed below this point with sand-bars, willow, and
cotton-wood islands.
At four o'clock in the afternoon we reached and landed at Wabashaw's
village. It is eligibly seated on the west shore, and consists of four
of the large elongated Sioux lodges before mentioned, containing a
population of about sixty souls. The usual intercourse and speeches of
congratulation by the Indians, and acknowledgment of the American
authorities were made, and we again embarked, after a detention of forty
minutes. A few miles below Wabashaw's village, we came to a high rocky
or mountain island, called _La montaigne qui trompe dans l'eau_, a term
which is shortened by western phraseology into TROMPLEDO mountain. This
is a very remarkable feature in the geography of the Upper Mississippi.
The rock is calcareous; it is, in fact, the only fast or rocky island we
have encountered below the little islet at the head of the Packagama
Falls. It is not only striking from its lofty elevation, but is several
miles in circumference; standing in the bed of the river and parting its
channel into two, it appears to be the first bold geological monument
which has effectually resisted its course.
We had passed this island but a short distance, and the approaches of
evening began to be manifest, when a large gray wolf sprang into the
river to cross it. The greatest animation at once arose in our flotilla;
the canoemen bending themselves to their paddles, the auxiliary Indians
of our party shouting, and the whole party assuming an unwonted
excitement. A shot was soon fired from one of our rifles, but either the
distance was too great, or the aim incorrect. The wolf was fully
apprised of his peril, put forth all his strength, outstripped his
pursuers, reached the shore, and nimbly leaped into the woods.
We encamped on the west shore, a few miles below the island at seven
o'clock, having been twelve hours in our canoes. The confinement of the
position nobody can appreciate who has not tried it, and I hastened to
stretch my legs, by ascending the river cliffs in our rear, to have a
glimpse of its geology and scenery. The view westwardly was one of
groves and prairies of most inviting agricultural promise. In front, the
island mountain rises to an elevation which appears to have been the
original geological level of the stratification before the Mississippi
cut its way through it.
At the rapids of Black River, which enters opposite our encampment, a
saw-mill, we were informed, had been erected by an inhabitant of Prairie
du Chien. Thus the empire of the arts has begun to make its way into
these regions, and proclaims the advance of a heavy civilization into a
valley which has heretofore only resounded to the savage war-whoop. Or,
if a higher grade of society and arts has ever before existed in it, as
some of our tumuli and antiquities would lead us to infer, the light of
history has failed to reach us on the subject.[104]
[104] _American Antiquities._ As the tumuli and earthworks of the
Mississippi Valley are more closely scrutinized, they do not appear
to denote a higher degree of civilization than may be assigned to the
ancestors of the present races of Indians, prior to the epoch of the
introduction of European arts into America. Certainly there is
nothing in our earthworks and mounds, to compare with the Toltec and
Aztec type of arts at the opening of the 16th century; while the
possession by our tribes of the zea maize, a tropical plant, and
other facts indicative of a southern migration, appear to denote a
residence in warmer latitudes. The distribution of the Mexican
teocalli and pyramid is also plainly traceable from the south.
Neither the platform nor the solid conical mound has been traced
higher north than Prairie du Chien; nor have the earthworks (adopting
Carver's notices) reached higher than Lake Pepin. There are no mounds
or earthworks at the sources of the Mississippi nor in all British
America to the shores of the Arctic Seas. We cannot bring arts or
civilization from that quarter.
At the spot of our encampment, as soon as the shades of night closed in,
we were visited by hordes of ephemera. The candles lighted in our tents
became the points of attraction for these evanescent creations. They
soon, however, began to feel the influence of the sinking of the
thermometer, and the air was imperceptibly cleared of them in an hour or
two. By the hour of three o'clock the next morning (5th) the expedition
was again in motion descending the river. It halted for breakfast at
Painted Rock, on the west shore. While this matter was being
accomplished, I found an abundant locality of unios in a curve of the
shore which produced an eddy. Fine specimens of U. purpureus, elongatus,
and orbiculatus were obtained. With the increased spirit and animation
which the whole party felt on the prospect of our arrival at Prairie du
Chien, we proceeded unremittingly on our descent, and reached that place
at six o'clock in the evening.
Prairie du Chien does not derive its name from the dog, but from a noted
family of Fox Indians bearing this name, who anciently dwelt here. The
old town is said to have been about a mile below the present settlement,
which was commenced by Mr. Dubuque and his associates, in 1783. The
prairie is most eligibly situated along the margin of the stream, above
whose floods it is elevated. It consists of a heavy stratum of diluvial
pebbles and boulders, which is picturesquely bounded by lofty cliffs of
the silurian[105] limestones, and their accompanying column of
stratification. The village has the old and shabby look of all the
antique French towns on the Mississippi, and in the great lake basins;
the dwellings being constructed of logs and barks, and the courtyards
picketed in, as if they were intended for defence. It is called
Kipisagee by the Chippewas and Algonquin tribes generally, meaning the
place of the jet or outflow of the (Wisconsin) River. It is, in popular
parlance, estimated to be 300 miles below St. Peter's, and 600 above St.
Louis.[106] Its latitude is 43° 3´ 6´´. It is the seat of justice for
Crawford County, having been so named in, honor of W. H. Crawford,
Secretary of the Treasury of the U. S. It is, together with all the
region west of Lake Michigan, attached to the territory of Michigan.
There is a large and fertile island in the Mississippi, opposite the
place.
[105] This term, unknown to geology at the period, has been
subsequently introduced by Sir Roderic Murchison.
[106] These distances are reduced by _Ex. Doc._ 237, respectively to
260 and 542 miles.
We found the garrison to consist of a single company of infantry, under
the command of Capt. J. Fowle, Jun.,[107] who received us courteously,
and offered the salute due to the rank of His Excellency, Gov. Cass. The
fort is a square stockade, with bastions at two angles. There was found
on this part of the prairie, when it came to be occupied with a garrison
by the Americans, in 1819, an ancient platform-mound, in an exactly
square form, the shape and outlines of which were preserved with
exactitude by the prairie sod. This earthwork, the probable evidence of
a condition of ancient society, arts, and events of a race who are now
reduced so low, was, with good taste, preserved by the military, when
they erected this stockade. One of the officers built a dwelling-house
upon it, thus converting it, to the use, and probably the only use, to
which it was originally devoted. No measurements have been preserved of
its original condition; but judging from present appearances, it must
have squared seventy-five feet, and have had an elevation of eight feet.
[107] This officer entered the army in 1812, serving with reputation.
He rose, through various grades of the service, to the rank of Lieut.
Col. of the 6th infantry. He lost his life on the 25th April, 1838,
by the explosion of the steamer Moselle, on the Ohio River.