CHAPTER VI

COUNTRY DANCES, SONGS, AND LEGENDS

The peasants are very fond of dance and song, particularly in Northern

Portugal. At harvest-time, and in the month of May, they delight in

gatherings where old-fashioned Oriental-looking dances take place.

They are slow and sedate, consisting quite as much of movements of the

body, arms, and hands, as of the feet, and must have been taken from

the Moors. You seldom hear any laughter at these _danças_, though in

the ordinary way the northern Portuguese are cheery and light-hearted

enough.

The music which accompanies them is also usually of a weird Oriental

nature, in a minor key, like many of the national airs and ballads, but

each district has its own peculiar songs, and these have often a great

charm and sweetness about them, more especially in the mountainous

districts, where the Moors never penetrated, and where the peasants

retain more of their ancient Roman and Gothic origin.

“When the Portuguese labourer has done his long day’s work, he does

not lean against a post and smoke a pipe, nor does he linger in the

wine-shop; but if it be a holiday or a Sunday, and in a rural district,

he puts on a clean shirt, with a large gold or silver stud as a neck

fastening, and his newest hat, varying in shape according to locality,

but always of black felt, and of the kind one sees in pictures of

Spanish life. He throws over his shoulder a black cloth cloak with a

real gold or silver clasp. He takes his favourite ox-goad in his hand,

as tall as himself, straight as an arrow, well-rounded, and polished,

and bound with brass. He slings his mandolin round his neck, and makes

his way to the nearest fashionable threshing-floor--the peasant’s

drawing-room. As he passes along, strumming careless chords and humming

snatches of strange airs, the girls and lads stop their labour and

accompany him, lovers will interrupt their love-making to follow too,

or continue their courting to the rhythmic tinkling of the mandolin.

When the music and its following arrives at the dancing place, and the

partners are all ranged in a circle, the dance will begin, with the

strangest, slowest, most old-fashioned steps, the like whereof has not

been danced under a civilized roof for centuries. The musician, or the

three or four of them whose mandolins make the orchestra, dance in the

round with the others, and, when the time arrives, turn and set to

their partners like the other dancers.”

The above is taken from the writings of an Englishman who spent many

years of his life in Portugal, and knew the country well.

There is still a great deal of superstition among the peasants, and

some of the quaint legends of vampires, spirits, and fairies in which

they firmly believe are most strange. Stories of Moorish maidens are

very general. If, wandering through the forests, a man happens to hear

an echo of his own voice, he thinks it is that of a Moorish maid, and,

being a good Roman Catholic, crosses himself devoutly to keep off harm.

In one place they tell of a huge and terrible dragon, who did all sorts

of dreadful things, and terrorized the entire neighbourhood. At last

a brave and chivalrous youth set out to try and destroy it, but while

he lay in wait for the monster in the heart of a dark wood, he was

overcome by sleep, and awoke, to his horror, to find himself in the

coils of the monster itself, and the horrible creature in the act of

kissing him on the lips. But as it did so the spell was broken, and

instead of a dragon, he found he was being embraced by a most beautiful

Moorish maiden, with whom he fell in love on the spot, and they were

married, and lived happily ever after.

In another place there is a story of one of these maidens whom some

wicked spirit had turned into a stone, and quite unconscious of what

it really was, a farmer was in the habit of using this particular stone

as a weight on his harrow. One day, to his great surprise, he heard a

voice in the air above him telling him to break off one corner of the

stone and take it home, and then to throw the rest into a deep pool in

the river, which flowed near at hand. He did as he was bidden, and as

the stone splashed into the water, he heard a peal of joyful unearthly

laughter, as the Moorish maid once more resumed her human form; and on

returning to his house the farmer found that the piece of stone he had

left there had been changed into pure gold, which made him rich for

life.

There is also a great belief in witches--_bruxas_ they call them. The

fishermen often think they see them at night on the crests of the

waves. They say they are quite accustomed to them, that the lapping of

the water is the murmur of their songs, and they are not at all afraid

of them, as these water-witches are considered quite harmless. The land

_bruxas_ are, however, much more dreaded, and it is strange in a land

of otherwise sensible people to hear of the queer customs which are

still in vogue, and are supposed to avert the evil they might otherwise

do. On May Day a piece of red wool is tied round the necks of all the

young animals on a farm: mules, donkeys, sheep, goats, pigs, etc. Old

horseshoes are nailed to the house-doors, and a slip of broom is stuck

into every stable-door. Every cart, plough, or ox-yoke in the place is

also decorated with broom, which is considered particularly efficacious

against the dreaded spells of the _bruxas_.

Some animals are looked on as “lucky,” particularly the oxen,

and the most superstitious peasant will believe himself to be

quite safe from all danger of charms or magic when standing

among them.

Of all the birds the house-martins are the most cherished, for the

legend still survives that they fly to heaven every day to wash our

Lord’s feet, and it would be thought most unlucky to in any way

destroy their nests or young.

Peeps at Many Lands: Portugal · 第 6 / 16 章