We must now leave this well occupied and richly furnished chamber, and pass

on to the fourth room--in the centre of which is a large raised bronze

ornament, representing Apollo and the Muses--surrounded by the more eminent

literary characters of France in the seventeenth century. It is raised to

the glory of the grand monarque Louis XIV. and the figure of Apollo is

intended for that of his Majesty. The whole is a palpable failure: a

glaring exhibition of bad French taste. Pegasus, the Muses, rocks, and

streams, are all scattered about in a very confused manner; without

connection, and of course without effect. Even the French allow it to be

"mesquin, et de mauvais goût." But let me be methodical. As you enter this

fourth room, you observe, opposite--before you turn to the right--a door,

having the inscription of CABINET DES MEDAILLES. This door however is open

only twice in the week; when the cabinet is freely and most conveniently

shewn. Of its contents--in part, precious beyond comparison--this is the

place to say only one little word or two: for really there would be no end

of detail were I to describe even its most remarkable treasures. Francis I.

and his son Henry II. were among its earliest patrons; when the cabinet was

deposited in the Louvre. The former enriched it with a series of valuable

gold medals, and among them with one of Louis XII., his predecessor; which

has not only the distinction of being beautifully executed, but of being

the largest, if not the first of its kind in France.[18]

The specimens of Greek art, in coins, and other small productions, are

equally precious and select. Vases, shields, gems, and cameos--the greater

part of which are described in Caylus's well-known work--are perfectly

enchanting. But the famous AGAT of the STE. CHAPELLE--supposed to be the

largest in the world, and which has been engraved by Giradet in a manner

perfectly unrivalled--will not fail to rivet your attention, and claim your

most unqualified commendation. The sardonyx, called the VASE of PTOLEMY, is

another of the great objects of attraction in the room where we are now

tarrying--and beautiful, and curious, and precious, it unquestionably is.

Doubtless, in such a chamber as this, the classical archæologist will gaze

with no ordinary emotions, and meditate with no ordinary satisfaction. But

I think I hear the wish escape him--as he casts an attentive eye over the

whole--"why do they not imitate us in a publication relating to them? Why

do they not put forth something similar to what we have done for our

_Museum Marbles_? Or rather, speaking more correctly, why are not the

_Marlborough Gems_ considered as an object of rivalry, by the curators of

this exquisite cabinet? Paris is not wanting both in artists who design,

and who engrave, in this department, with at least equal skill to our

own."[19]

Let us now return to the Books. In the fourth book-room there is an opening

in the centre, to the left, nearly facing the bronze ornament--through

which, as you enter, and look to the left, appear the upper halves of two

enormous GLOBES. The effect is at first, inconceivably puzzling and even

startling: but you advance, and looking down the huge aperture occasioned

by these gigantic globes, you observe their bases resting on the ground

floor: both the upper and ground floor having the wainscots entirely

covered by books. These globes are the performance of Vincent Coronelli, a

Venetian; and were presented to Louis XIV. by the Cardinal d'Etrées, who

had them made for his Majesty. You return back into the fourth room--pace

on to its extremity, and then, at right angles, view the fifth room--or,

comprising the upper and lower globe rooms, a seventh room; the whole

admirably well lighted up from large side windows. Observe further--the

whole corresponding suite of rooms, on the ground floor, is also nearly

filled with printed books, comprising the _unbound copies_--and one

chamber, occupied by the more exquisite specimens of the presses of the

_Alduses_, the _Giuntæ_, the _Stephens_, &c. UPON VELLUM, or on _large

paper_. Another chamber is exclusively devoted to large paper copies of

_all_ descriptions, from the presses of all countries; and in one or the

other of these chambers are deposited the volumes from the Library of

_Grolier_ and _De Thou_--names, dear to Book-Collectors; as an indifferent

copy has hardly ever yet been found which was once deposited on the shelves

of either. You should know that the public do not visit this lower suite of

rooms, it being open only to the particular friends of the several

Librarians. The measurement of these rooms, from the entrance to the

extremity of the fifth room, is upwards of 700 feet.

Now, my good friend, if you ask me whether the interior of this library be

superior to that of our dear BODLEIAN, I answer, at once, and without fear

of contradiction--it is very much _inferior_. It represents an interminable

range of homely and commodious apartments; but the Bodleian library, from

beginning to end--from floor to ceiling--is grand, impressive, and entirely

of a bookish appearance. In that spacious and lofty receptacle--of which

the ceiling, in my humble opinion, is an unique and beautiful piece of

workmanship--all is solemn, and grave, and inviting to study: yet echoing,

as it were, to the footsteps of those who once meditated within its almost

hallowed precincts--the _Bodleys_, the _Seldens_, the _Digbys_, the _Lauds_

and _Tanners_, of other times![20] But I am dreaming: forgetting that, at

this moment, you are impatient to enter the _MS. Department_ of the Royal

Library at Paris. Be it so, therefore. And yet the very approach to this

invaluable collection is difficult of discovery. Instead of a corresponding

lofty stone stair-case, you cross a corner of the square, and enter a

passage, with an iron gate at the extremity--leading to the apartments of

Messrs. Millin and Langlès. A narrow staircase, to the right, receives you:

and this stair-case would appear to lead rather to an old armoury, in a

corner-tower of some baronial castle, than to a suite of large modern

apartments, containing probably, upon the whole, the finest collection of

_Engravings_ and of _Manuscripts_, of all ages and characters, in Europe.

Nevertheless, as we cannot mount by any other means, we will e'en set

footing upon this stair-case, humble and obscure as it may be. You scarcely

gain the height of some twenty steps, when you observe the magical

inscription of CABINET DES ESTAMPES. Your spirits dance, and your eyes

sparkle, as you pull the little wire--and hear the clink of a small

corresponding bell. The door is opened by one of the attendants in livery--

arrayed in blue and silver and red--very handsome, and rendered more

attractive by the respectful behaviour of those who wear that royal

costume. I forgot to say that the same kind of attendants are found in all

the apartments attached to this magnificent collection--and, when not

occupied in their particular vocation of carrying books to and fro, these

attendants are engaged in reading, or sitting quietly with crossed legs,

and peradventure dosing a little. But nothing can exceed their civility;

accompanied with a certain air of politeness, not altogether divested of a

kind of gentlemanly deportment.

On entering the first of those rooms, where the prints are kept, you are

immediately struck with the narrow dimensions of the place--for the

succeeding room, though perhaps more than twice as large, is still

inadequate to the reception of its numerous visitors.[21] In this first

room you observe a few of the very choicest productions of the burin, from

the earliest periods of the art, to the more recent performances of

_Desnoyer_, displayed within glazed frames upon the wainscot. It really

makes the heart of a connoisseur leap with ecstacy to see such

_Finiguerras, Baldinis, Boticellis, Mantegnas, Pollaiuolos, Israel Van

Meckens, Albert Durers, Marc Antonios, Rembrandts, Hollar, Nanteuils,

Edelincks, &c._; while specimens of our own great master engravers, among

whom are _Woollet_ and _Sharp_, maintain a conspicuous situation, and add

to the gratification of the beholder. The idea is a good one; but to carry

it into complete effect, there should be a gallery, fifty feet long, of a

confined width, and lighted from above:[22] whereas the present room is

scarcely twenty feet square, with a disproportionably low ceiling. However,

you cannot fail to be highly gratified--and onwards you go--diagonally--and

find yourself in a comparatively long room--in the midst of which is a

table, reaching from nearly one end to the other, and entirely filled

(every day) with visitors, or rather students--busied each in their several

pursuits. Some are quietly turning over the succeeding leaves, on which the

prints are pasted: others are pausing upon each fine specimen, in silent

ecstacy--checking themselves every instant lest they should break forth

into rapturous exclamations!... "silence" being rigidly prescribed by the

Curators--and, I must say, as rigidly maintained. Others again are busied

in deep critical examination of some ancient ruin from the pages of

_Piranesi_ or of _Montfaucon_--now making notes, and now copying particular

parts. Meanwhile, from the top to the bottom of the sides of the, room, are

huge volumes of prints, bound in red morocco; which form indeed the

materials for the occupations just described.[23]

But, hanging upon a pillar, at the hither end of this second room, you

observe a large old drawing of a head or portrait, in a glazed frame; which

strikes you in every respect as a great curiosity. M. Du Chesne, the

obliging and able director of this department of the collection, attended

me on my first visit. He saw me looking at this head with great eagerness.

"Enfin voilà quelque chose qui mérite bien vôtre attention"--observed he.

It was in fact the portrait of "their good but unfortunate KING JOHN"--as

my guide designated him. This Drawing is executed in a sort of thick body

colour, upon fine linen: the back-ground is gold: now almost entirely

tarnished--and there is a sort of frame, stamped, or pricked out, upon the

surface of the gold--as we see in the illuminations of books of that

period. It should also seem as if the first layer, upon which the gold is

placed, had been composed of the white of an egg--or of some such glutinous

substance. Upon the whole, it is an exceedingly curious and interesting

relic of antient graphic art.

To examine minutely the treasures of such a collection of prints--whether

in regard to ancient or modern art--would demand the unremitted attention

of the better part of a month; and in consequence, a proportionate quantity

of time and paper in embodying the fruits of that attention.[24] There is

only one other curiosity, just now, to which I shall call your attention.

It is the old wood cut of ST. CHRISTOPHER--of which certain authors have

discoursed largely.[25] They suppose they have an impression of it here--

whereas that of Lord Spencer has been hitherto considered as unique. His

Lordship's copy, as you well know, was obtained from the Buxheim monastery,

and was first made public in the interesting work of Heineken.[26] The copy

now under consideration is not pasted upon boards, as is Lord Spencer's--

forming the interior linings in the cover or binding of an old MS.--but it

is a loose leaf, and is therefore subject to the most minute examination,

or to any conclusion respecting the date which may be drawn from the

_watermark_. Upon _such_ a foundation I will never attempt to build an

hypothesis, or to draw a conclusion; because the same water-mark of Bamberg

and of Mentz, of Venice and of Rome, may be found within books printed both

at the commencement and at the end of the fifteenth century. But for the

print--as it _is_. I have not only examined it carefully, but have

procured, from M. Coeuré, a fac-simile of the head only--the most essential

part--and both the examination and the fac-simile convince me... that the

St. Christopher in the Bibliothèque du Roi is NOT an impression from the

_same block_ which furnished the St. Christopher now in the library of St.

James's Place.

The general character of the figure, in the Royal Library here, is thin and

feeble compared with that in Lord Spencer's collection; and I am quite

persuaded that M. Du Chesne,--who fights his ground inch by inch, and

reluctantly (to his honour, let me add) assents to any remarks which may

make his own cherished St. Christopher of a comparatively modern date--

will, in the end, admit that the Parisian impression is a _copy_ of a later

date--and that, had an opportunity presented itself of comparing the two

impressions with each other,[27] it would never have been received into the

Library at the price at which it was obtained--I think, at about 620

francs. However, although it be not THE St. Christopher, it is a graphic

representation of the Saint which may possibly be as old as the year 1460.

But we have tarried quite long enough, for the present, within the cabinet

of Engravings. Let us return: ascend about a dozen more steps; and enter

the LIBRARY OF MANUSCRIPTS. As before, you are struck with the smallness of

the first room; which leads, however, to a second of much larger

dimensions--then to a third, of a boudoir character; afterwards to a fourth

and fifth, rather straitened--and sixthly, and lastly, to one of a noble

length and elevation of ceiling--worthy in all respects of the glorious

treasures which it contains. Let me, however, be more explicit. In the very

first room you have an earnest of all the bibliomaniacal felicity which

these MSS. hold out. Look to the left--upon entering--and view, perhaps

lost in a very ecstacy of admiration--the _Romances_ ... of all sizes and

character, which at first strike you! What _Launcelot du Lacs, Tristans,

Leonnois, Arturs, Ysaises_, and feats of the _Table Ronde_, stand closely

wedged within the brass-wired doors that incircle this and every other

apartment! _Bibles, Rituals, Moralities_, ... next claim your attention.

You go on--_History, Philosophy, Arts and Sciences_ ... but it is useless

to indulge in these rhapsodies. The fourth apartment, of which I spake,

exhibits specimens of what are seen more plentifully, but not of more

curious workmanship, in the larger room to which it leads. Here glitter,

behind glazed doors, old volumes of devotion bound in ivory, or gilt, or

brass, studded with cameos and precious stones; and covered with figures of

all characters and ages--some of the XIIth--and more of the immediately

following centuries. Some of these bindings (among which I include

_Diptychs_) may be as old as the eleventh--and they have been even carried

up to the tenth century.

Let us however return quickly back again; and begin at the beginning. The

first room, as I before observed, has some of the most exquisitely

illuminated, as well as some of the most ancient MSS., in the whole

library. A phalanx of _Romances_ meets the eye; which rather provokes the

courage, than damps the ardor, of the bibliographical champion. Nor are the

illuminated _Bibles_ of less interest to the graphic antiquary. In my next

letter you shall see what use I have made of the unrestrained liberty

granted me, by the kind-hearted Curators, to open what doors, and examine

what volumes, I pleased. Meanwhile let me introduce you to the excellent

MONSIEUR GAIL, who is sitting at yonder desk--examining a beautiful Greek

MS. of Polybius, which once belonged to Henry II. and his favourite Diane

de Poictiers. M. Gail is the chief Librarian presiding over the Greek and

Latin MSS., and is himself Professor of the Greek language in the royal

college of France. Of this gentleman I shall speak more particularly anon.

At the present moment it may suffice only to observe that he is thoroughly

frank, amiable, and communicative, and dexterous in his particular

vocation: and that he is, what we should both call, a hearty, good fellow--

a natural character. M. Gail is accompanied by the assistant librarians MM.

De. l'EPINE, and MÉON: gentlemen of equal ability in their particular

department, and at all times willing to aid and abet the researches of

those who come to examine and appreciate the treasures of which they are

the joint Curators. Indeed I cannot speak too highly of these gentlemen--

nor can I too much admire the system and the silence which uniformly

prevail.

Another principal librarian is M. LANGLÈS:[28] an author of equal

reputation with Monsieur Gail--but his strength lies in Oriental

literature; and he presides more especially over the Persian, Arabic, and

other Oriental MSS. To the naïveté of M. Gail, he adds the peculiar

vivacity and enthusiasm of his countrymen. To see him presiding in his

chair (for he and M. Gail take alternate turns) and occupied in reading,

you would think that a book worm could scarcely creep between the tip of

his nose and the surface of the _Codex Bombycinus_ over which he is poring.

He is among the most short-sighted of mortals--as to _ocular_ vision. But

he has a bravely furnished mind; and such a store of spirits and of good

humour--talking withal unintermittingly, but very pleasantly---that you

find it difficult to get away from him. He is no indifferent speaker of our

own language; and I must say, seems rather proud of such an acquirement.

Both he and M. Gail, and M. Van Praet, are men of rather small, stature--

_triplicates_, as it were, of the same work[29]--but of which M. Gail is

the tallest copy. One of the two head librarians, just mentioned, sits at a

desk in the second room--and when any friends come to see, or to converse

with him--the discussion is immediately adjourned to the contiguous

boudoir-like apartment, where are deposited the rich old bindings of which

you have just had a hasty description. Here the voices are elevated, and

the flourishes of speech and of action freely indulged in.

In the way to the further apartment, from the boudoir so frequently

mentioned, you pass a small room--in which there is a plaster bust of the

King--and among the books, bound, as they almost all are, in red morocco,

you observe two volumes of tremendously thick dimensions; the one entitled

_Alexander Aphrodiæsus, Hippocrates, &c._--the other _Plutarchi Vitæ

Parallelæ et Moralia, &c._ They contain nothing remarkable for ornament, or

what is more essential, for intrinsic worth. Nevertheless you pass on: and

the last--but the most magnificent--of _all_ the rooms, appropriated to the

reception of books, whether in ms. or in print, now occupies a very

considerable portion of your attention. It is replete with treasures of

every description: in ancient art, antiquities, and both sacred and profane

learning: in languages from all quarters, and almost of all ages of the

world. Here I opened, with indescribable delight the ponderous and famous

_Latin Bible of Charles the Bald_--and the religious manual of his brother

the _Emperor Lotharius_--composed chiefly of transcripts from the Gospels.

Here are ivory bindings, whether as diptychs, or attached to regular

volumes. Here are all sorts and sizes of the uncial or capital-letter MSS--

in portions, or entire. Here, too, are very precious old illuminations, and

specimens--almost without number--admirably arranged, of every species of

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL VIRTÙ, which cannot fail to fix the attention, enlarge the

knowledge, and improve the judgment, of the curious in this department of

research.

Such, my dear friend, is the necessarily rapid--and, I fear, consequently

imperfect--sketch which I send you of the general character of the

BIBLIOTHÈQUE DU ROI; both as respects its dead and its living treasures. It

remains to be seen how this sketch will be completed.--- and I hereby give

you notice, that my next letter will contain some account of a few of the

more ancient, curious, and splendid MANUSCRIPTS--to be followed by a second

letter, exclusively devoted to a similar account of the PRINTED BOOKS. If I

execute this task according to my present inclinations--and with the

disposition which I now feel, together with the opportunities which have

been afforded me--it will not, I trust, be said that I have been an idle or

unworthy visitor of this magnificent collection.

[16] [Mons. Crapelet takes fire at the above passage: simply because he

misunderstands it. In not one-word, or expression of it, is there any

thing which implies, directly or indirectly, that "it would be

difficult to find another public establishment where the officers are

more active, more obliging, more anxious to satisfy the Public than in

the above." I am talking only of _dress_--and commending the silk

stockings of Mons. Van Praet at the expense of those by whom he is

occasionally surrounded.]

[17] So, even NOW: 1829.

[18] In the year 1814, the late M. Millin published a dissertation upon

this medal, to which he prefixed an engraving of the figure of Louis.

There can indeed be but one opinion that the Engraving is unworthy of

the Original.

[For an illustration of the _Medallic History of France_, I scarcely

recollect any one object of Art which would be more gratifying, as

well as apposite, than a faithful Engraving of such a Medal: and I

call upon my good friend M. DU CHESNE to set such a History on foot.

There is however another medal, of the same Monarch, of a smaller

size, but of equal merit of execution, which has been selected to

grace the pages of this second edition--in the OPPOSITE PLATE. The

inscription is as follows: LUDOVICO XII. REGNANTE CÆSARE ALTERO.

GAUDET OMNIS NATIO: from which it is inferred that the Medal was

struck in consequence of the victory of Ravenna, or of Louis's

triumphant campaigns in Italy. A short but spirited account is given

of these campaigns in Le Noir's _Musée des Monumens Français_, tome

ii. p. 145-7.]

[19] ["And it is Mr. DIBDIN who makes this confession! Let us render

justice to his impartiality on this occasion. Such a confession ought

to cause some regret to those who go to seek engravings in London."

CRAPELET, vol. ii. p. 89. The reader shall make his own remark on the

force, if there be any, of this gratuitous piece of criticism of the

French Translator.]

[20] [And, till within these few months, those of the REV. DR. NICOLL,

Regius Professor of the Hebrew Language! That amiable and modest and

surprisingly learned Oriental Scholar died in the flower of his age

(in his 36th year) to the deep regret of all his friends and

acquaintances, and, I had well nigh said, to the irreparable loss of

the University.]

[21] ["This observation is just; and it is to be hoped that they will soon

carry into execution the Royal ordonance of October, 1816, which

appropriates the apartments of the Treasury, contiguous, to be united

to the establishment, as they become void. However, what took place in

1825, respecting some buildings in the Rue Neuve des Petits Champs,

forbids us to suppose that this wished for addition will take place."

CRAPELET, p. 93.]

[22] [M. Crapelet admits the propriety of such a suggested improvement; and

hopes that government will soon take it up for the accommodation of

the Visitors--who sometimes are obliged to wait for a _vacancy_,

before they can commence these researches.]

[23] [Mons. Crapelet estimates the number of these splendid volumes (in

1825,) at "more than six thousand!"]

[24] [M. Crapelet might have considered this confession as a reason, or

apology, sufficient for not entering into all those details or

descriptions, which he seems surprised and vexed that I omitted to

travel into.]

[25] _An enquiry into the History of Engraving upon Copper and in

Wood_, 1816, 4to. 2 vol. by W.Y. Ottley. Mr. Ottley, in vol. i. p. 90,

has given the whole of the original cut: while in the first volume p.

iii. of the _Bibliotheca Spenceriana_, only the figure and date are

given.

[26] _Idée générale d'une Collection complette des Estampes. Leips._

1771. 8vo.

A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Two · 第 3 / 26 段