CHAPTER XXIX.

And now, from this spot, I may be allowed to take a hasty,

retrospective glance at the great WESTERN COUNTRY. It stretches from

the Gulf of Mexico to the northern limits of the United States; and

from the Alleghany, to the Rocky mountains--a distance of three

thousand miles; showing a broad surface of earth, equal in extent to

the Atlantic ocean itself. Between these bold and primitive barriers,

a country is exhibited, every where bearing the marks of a secondary

formation. The valleys, bluffs and hills--the regular lamina of stone,

strata of marine shells,--and, indeed, all the physical aspects of the

country, wear the appearance of once having been the bed of a vast

lake, or an inland sea.

From this circumstance of its recent formation, and the large

quantities of decomposed lime stone mixed with the soil, result another

attribute of this valley--its character of uncommon fertility. It is

not indeed every where alike fertile. There are here, as else where,

infinite varieties of soil, from the richest alluvions, to the most

sterile flint knobs--from the impervious cane brakes, to the sandy

pine hills. There are, too, towards the Rocky mountains, large tracts

that have a surface of sterile sands, or covered only with a scanty

vegetation of weeds and coarse grass. But of the country in general,

the most cursory observer must have remarked, that, compared with lands

in other regions apparently of the same character, these show marks of

singular fertility. The most ordinary oak lands, will bring successive

crops of Indian corn and wheat, without manuring, and with but little

care of cultivation. The pine lands, which appear so sterile to the

eye, have in many places, produced good crops for years, without the

aid of manure.

There is another remarkable trait in the soil of this valley--its

power to support vegetation under the severest drought. It is a fact

so notorious that it has become proverbial, that if there be moisture

enough to make the corn germinate and come up, there will be a good

crop, if no rain fall until harvest. The eastern emigrant witnesses

with astonishment, the steady advance of his crop to vigorous maturity,

under a pressure of drought, and a cloudless ardor of sun, that must

have parched up the fields, and destroyed vegetation at the East.

The Alleghany mountains, which form the eastern boundary of this

great valley, are composed of many ridges, which run parallel to each

other with remarkable regularity. The middle ridge is generally the

most elevated, and separates the waters of the Atlantic, from those

that flow into the Mississippi. Soon after passing the summit of the

principal mountains, the waters of the Ohio begin to be heard, as they

dash along over a precipitous and rocky channel, seeking a spot to

escape from the craggy hills, to the plains below.

After descending the last mountain ridge towards the valley, the

country is still a succession of high hills, generally rounded

smoothly down their sides, having more or less table land on their

summits.--Those portions of Pennsylvania and Virginia, which belong

to the Mississippi Valley; the eastern parts of Ohio, Kentucky and

Tennessee, are generally hilly, and sometimes even mountainous. In

Alabama, the hills begin to subside. The features of the country too,

begin, manifestly to change. The landscape wears a different aspect.

Instead of the oaks, whitewood and sycamore, we begin to hear the

breeze among the tops of long leaved pines.--A long succession of pine

hills and fertile valleys succeed each other; the timber becoming less

and less, until we meet the extensive prairies, or savannas of Florida.

Approaching the lakes, the country becomes quite level. At the northern

sections of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, near the borders of the lakes,

the surface, in some places, becomes so marshy and low, as to be

covered, in winter and spring, with water from three or four inches to

a foot in depth. The eastern part of Ohio is hilly, but the western

portion sensibly becomes more and more level. The Ohio river originally

rolled on in its whole course, through an unbroken forest; but as we

approach the eastern boundary of Indiana, we begin to discover the

first indications of prairie. In the western part of the State of Ohio,

small and detached prairies are only found. In Indiana, the proportion

of prairie is far greater, and in Illinois it far exceeds the timbered

land. North of the State of Illinois, pine hills, ponds, marshes,

woodland and prairie, alternate to the head waters of the Mississippi.

The surface of the country west of the Mississippi, is generally much

more level than the valley east of it. There are bluffs to be sure,

often high and precipitous, near the courses of the large rivers; and

some portion of the country, near the Mississippi, is covered with

flint knobs--singular hills of a conical shape, which, with a base

of not more than a third of a mile in diameter, sometimes rise to

the height of four or five hundred feet; and are covered with coarse

gravel and flint stones. There are also, as in the country between the

St. Francis and White rivers, high hills, which might well be called

mountains. A spur of the Alleghany mountains, seems to come in to the

Mississippi at the Chickasaw bluffs, and to be continued to the west

of the river, in the St. Francis hills. But between the Mississippi

and the Rocky mountains, a distance of twenty-five hundred miles, the

general surface of the country is one vast plain, probably the largest

on the face of the globe. Except the bluffs of the rivers, and flint

knobs, the whole surface is entirely free from stones. On the lower

courses of the Missouri, St. Francis, White, Arkansas and Red rivers,

we find extensive bottoms of inexhaustible fertility covered with a

dense forest; and occasionally a rich prairie, teeming with vegetation.

But as we ascend these rivers, the timber becomes less and less, until,

at last, we find the prairies coming in to the river banks. As the

traveller recedes from the narrow and fertile belt on the streams, he

finds the prairies becoming more and more dry and sterile--destitute of

wood and water, and, sometimes, of all vegetation. He finds himself on

a boundless waste of prairies; stretching out before him, far beyond

the reach of vision; and here, he may wander for days, without finding

either wood or water, and whichever way he may turn his eyes, he

beholds an ocean of grass bounding the horizon. In advancing westward,

he, at length, catches a glimpse of the Rocky mountains, pencilled

like clouds on the blue arch of the sky. These mountains rise in lofty

grandeur, twelve thousand feet above the grassy plains at their base;

and some of the peaks, are supposed to be eighteen thousand feet

above the level of the sea. They appear at a distance, to present

an unbroken front, and to form an insuperable barrier between the

Mississippi valley, and the shores of the Pacific ocean. On a nearer

inspection, they are found to be, like the Alleghany mountains composed

of a number of parallel ridges; and following up the streams, as they

escape from the mountains, tolerable paths are found to cross them.

A late traveller crossed these mountains, by following up the river

Platte to its source; and from thence, down the stream that falls into

Lake Bueneventura, on the western side. He states that the ascent was

no where any greater than on the National road, over the Cumberland

mountains. He even asserts, that the ascent was not more than three

degrees; and that nature has provided a practical and good road, quite

down to the plains of the Columbia.

These ranges of mountains cover a wide extent of country; and here, the

principal rivers that fall into the Mississippi, have their sources.

Some of these rivers wind three or four hundred miles among the

mountains, before they find a passage to the plains below. The ranges

at the sources of the Arkansas, and extending southward towards the

Gulf of Mexico, bear the name of the Masserne mountains. A single peak

of this ridge, seen at immense distances over the adjacent plains,

rising into the blue atmosphere above the region of clouds, is called

mount Pike. Near this mountain, the Colorado of the Pacific, the Rio

del Norte of the Gulf of Mexico, the Yellow Stone of the Missouri, and

the Arkansas and Red rivers of the Mississippi, have their sources.

Mount Pike must therefore, be the highest point of land of this part of

North America.

The Rocky mountains are at present too little known to be accurately

and particularly described. They are hundreds of miles beyond the

limits of cultivation, and the usual haunts of civilized man. They

will for ages only attract the gaze and astonishment of wandering

hunters, and adventurous travellers, who will thread the mazes of their

deep gullies, as they pursue their journey to the western sea. Many of

the ranges, and peaks are black, ragged and precipitous; and around

their bases are strewn huge fragments of rock, detached by earthquakes

and the hand of time. From this iron bound and precipitous character,

they probably received the appellation of "Rocky mountains."

The general surface of the Mississippi Valley may be classed under

three distinct heads--the dense forest, the barrens, or oak openings,

and the prairies. In the first division, every traveller must have

remarked, as soon as he descends to this valley, a grandeur in the

form and size of the trees, a depth of verdure in the foliage, and a

magnificent prodigality of growth, that distinguishes this, from every

other country. The trees are large and straight, and rise aloft in

stately columns, free from branches, to a great height. In the rich

bottoms, they are generally wreathed with a drapery of ivy and grape

vines; and these vines have sometimes trunks as large as the human

body. Frequently, these forests are as free from any undergrowth as an

orchard of apple trees. Sometimes the only shrub seen among the tall

trees, is the beautiful pawpaw, with its splendid foliage and graceful

stems. In the rich alluvions of the southern section, impenetrable

cane brakes, tangles of brambles, and a rank growth of weeds, are often

found beneath the forest trees; and their lofty branches are hung with

large festoons of Spanish moss. These are the safe retreats of the

bears, panthers, and other wild beasts of the forest.

Such forest trees only will be noted, as are not found in our northern

climate. It may be proper to remark, that the white pine of New-England

is only found in the upper section of the Mississippi valley--the pitch

pine is found in various places on the high lands, throughout its whole

extent; although not on the banks of the streams of water.

The cypress is seen on overflowed and swampy land from the mouth of

the Ohio to the gulf of Mexico. It is strikingly singular in its

appearance. Under its deep shade, arise a multitude of cone shaped

posts, called 'cypress knees.' They are of various sizes and heights.

The largest generally seen are about a foot in diameter at the bottom,

two or three inches at the top, and six feet in height. The bark is

smooth, and grows over the top end the same as at the sides. The

ground, in a cypress swamp, looks as though tapering posts of all

imaginable sizes had been set there at random; and are sometimes so

thick that it is difficult to ride among them. It has been supposed

that these knees are but the commencement of large trees, and there is

some reason for this belief; for the tree itself has a buttress that

looks exactly like an enlarged cypress knee. A full sized cypress is

ten feet in diameter at the ground, but it tapers so rapidly that in

ascending eight feet, it is not more than about two feet in diameter;

from thence, it rises in a straight smooth column, eighty feet, without

any apparent diminution of its size; it then branches off at once

in all directions, and forms a level surface of foliage at the top.

A forest of cypress looks like a scaffolding of deep green verdure

suspended in the air.--The timber is clear of knots, easily wrought,

durable, and is the most valuable timber tree in all the southern

country.

The live oak is only found near the sea coast. It does not grow tall,

but runs out into long lateral branches, looking like an immense spread

umbrella. The leaf is small and evergreen. It bears an abundance of

acorns, which are small, long and a good deal tapering at each end. Its

timber is hard to cut, and will immediately sink in water.

The peccan is of beautiful form and appearance, and makes excellent

timber for building and rails. It bears a round nut about an inch and a

half long and half an inch in diameter. It excels all other nuts in the

delicacy of its flavor.

The black locust is an excellent timber tree, and is much used in the

building of steamboats. Its blossoms yield an exquisite perfume. The

white locust is similar to that of the north.

The black walnut is a splendid tree and grows to a great size. It is

much used in finishing houses and in cabinet furniture. It produces a

nut very similar to the northern butternut; but the meat is not very

palatable. The white walnut is also plenty, as are the various kinds of

hickory.

The sycamore is the largest tree of the western forest. One of these

trees near Marietta measures fifteen feet in diameter. Judge Tucker of

Missouri fitted up a hollow section of a sycamore for an office.

The yellow poplar is a splendid tree and next in size to the sycamore.

Its timber is very useful for building and rails. Its blossoms are

gaudy bell-shaped cups, and the leaves are of beautiful forms. The

cotton-wood is universally found in all the southern country below

the mouth of the Ohio. It is a tree of the poplar class, and somewhat

resembles the whitewood of the more northern regions. It is a large

stately tree and sometimes measures twelve feet in diameter. One tree

has been known to make more than a thousand rails. It derives its name

from the circumstance, that when its blossoms fall, it scatters on the

ground something much resembling, in feeling and appearance, short

ginned cotton.

The catalpa is found in the region of the cotton-wood. It is remarkable

for the great size of its deep green leaves, and its rounded tuft of

beautiful blossoms of unequalled fragrance. Its seed is contained in

a pod about two feet in length, much resembling a bean pod. As an

ornamental tree it is unrivalled. In gracefulness of form, grandeur

of its foliage, and rich, ambrosial fragrance of its blossom, it is

incomparably superior to all the trees of the western world.

The magnolia has been much overrated, both as to the size of the tree

and blossom also. It grows up tall and slim; the largest, about two

feet in diameter; smooth whitish bark; and slightly resembling the

northern beech. Its leaves are of a deep green, small and evergreen.

Its blossom is of a pure white, much resembling, although twice the

size, of a northern pond lilly. The fragrance is indeed powerful, but

rather disagreeable.

There are half a dozen species of laurels; the most beautiful of which,

is the laurel almond. It grows to the size of the pear tree; the leaves

resemble those of the peach; its blossoms yield a most delicious

perfume; and its foliage continues green all the year. It is found in

the valley of the Red River.

There is a striking and beautiful tree found on the head waters of the

Washita and in the interior of Arkansas, called bow-wood, from the

circumstance that the Indians use it for bows. It bears a large fruit

of most inviting appearance, much resembling a very large orange.

But although beautiful to the eye, it is bitter to the taste. It has

large and beautiful leaves, in form and appearance much like those of

the orange, but much larger. The wood is yellow like fustic, and it

produces a similar dye. It is hard, heavy and durable, and is supposed

to be more incorruptible than live oak, mulberry, cypress, or cedar.

Above the raft on Red River, the hulk of a steamboat has been built

entirely of its timber.

The China tree is not a native of this country, but is much cultivated

in the southern regions of the valley for ornament and shade. It has

fine long spiked leaves, eight or ten inches in length, set in pairs on

each side of a stem two feet long. In the flowering season, the tree is

completely covered with blossoms. It bears a small reddish berry, which

continues on the tree a long time after the leaves have fallen, and

gives it, even then, an interesting appearance. It is a tree of more

rapid growth than any known in this country.

The pawpaw is not only the most graceful and pleasing in appearance

of all the wild fruit-bearing shrubs, but throws into the shade those

cultivated by the hand of man. The leaves are long, of a rich green

color, and much resemble the leaves of the tobacco plant. The stem

is straight, white, and of unrivalled beauty. The fruit resembles

the cucumber, but smoother and more pointed at the ends.--There are

from two to five in a cluster; and when ripe are of a rich beautiful

yellow. The fruit contains from two to six seeds, double the size of

the tamarind. The pulp resembles egg custard. It has precisely the same

feeling in the mouth, and unites the taste of eggs, cream, sugar, and

spice. It is a natural custard; but too rich and highly seasoned to be

much relished by most people. So many whimsical and unexpected tastes

are compounded in the fruit, that a person of the most sober face, when

he first tastes of it, unconsciously relaxes into a smile.

The persimon is found in Missouri, and in the region to the south of

it. Its leaves resemble those of the wild cherry, and it grows about

the size of the pear tree. The fruit is of the size of a common grape,

in which are similar small seeds. It ripens about the middle of autumn.

The fruit is of a yellowish purple color, and it is too sweet to be

agreeable to many people.

In the middle regions, on some of the prairies, large tracts are

covered with the crab-apple tree.--Their appearance is like the

cultivated apple tree, although the fruit and the tree are much

smaller.--It makes good cider and preserves, but is too tart to be

eaten in its natural state.

The white and black mulberry are both found in the Mississippi valley,

but the black is by far the most common. It has been satisfactorily

proved, however, that the silk worm will thrive and produce well, upon

the black mulberry.

Cane brake is seen on the banks of the Mississippi soon after you leave

the mouth of the Ohio. It generally grows from fifteen to twenty feet

in height; but in the rich bottoms near Natchez it sometimes attains

the height of thirty feet. It is five years coming to maturity, and

then produces an abundant crop of seed, on heads much resembling broom

corn. It is an evergreen. The leaves are three or four inches long,

but narrow and sharp pointed. It is much used for reeds and fishing

rods. They grow so very thick that it is difficult for a man to make

head way among them. When they are cut down and become dry, they burn

freely.--The negroes have fine sport in burning them. The heat rarifies

the air in the hollow between the joints and causes them to burst with

a noise like a gun; so that when a large quantity of them are set on

fire, the noise is like a continued discharge of musketry.

The "barrens" have a distinct and peculiar configuration. The surface

is generally undulating with gentle hills--sometimes of a conical form,

but generally, running in parallel ridges. The soil is of a clayey

texture, of a reddish or greyish color, and is covered with tall coarse

grass. The trees are neither large nor very small; and are scattered

over the surface, at the distance of two or three rods from each

other. They are chiefly of the different kinds of oaks, and from this

circumstance, these barrens are, in many places, called "oak openings."

The soil never exceeds second rate, and is often only third rate; but

it will produce good crops of corn and wheat for many years, without

the aid of manure. There are large tracts of this kind of land in

Kentucky, Tennessee and Alabama. They are common in Indiana, Michigan,

Illinois, Missouri, Arkansas and Texas; and, indeed, they are seen

with more or less frequency over a large portion of the Mississippi

valley.

The 'pine barrens' are covered with a beautiful growth of long leaved

pines. They run up tall, in a straight shaft, generally about two

feet in diameter, and are excellent for timber. The surface is gently

undulating; sometimes, approaching a dead level, and is covered with

a scanty growth of weeds and grass. The soil is sandy, but sometimes

slightly tinged with reddish clay. It is supposed to be weak and

unproductive; but some of these 'barrens' have produced two or three

good crops of grain, without being enriched by manure. Large districts

of this kind of land are found in Alabama, Mississippi and Arkansas;

and they are common in Florida, and in some sections of Louisiana and

Texas.

The remaining, and by far the most extensive surface of the valley, is

that of the prairies. Although they have not much diversity of aspect,

yet they may be classed under three general heads--the alluvial, or

wet, the bushy, and the dry prairies. The bushy prairies seem to be

of an intermediate character between the alluvial prairies and the

barrens. They have springs of water, covered with hazel and furzy

bushes, small sassafras shrubs and grape vines. Acres of this shrubbery

are sometimes found covered with the common hop vine. Prairies of this

description are very common in Indiana, Illinois and Missouri; and

they alternate among the other prairies, for some distance towards the

Rocky mountains.

The wet prairies form the smallest division. They are generally found

on the margin of streams; but sometimes, they occur, with all their

distinctive features, far from the spot where waters now run. They are

generally basins, as it regards the adjacent regions, and possess a

deep, black soil of exhaustless fertility. They are the best soils for

wheat and Indian corn; but, ordinarily, too tender and loamy for the

cultivated grasses. In a native state, they are covered with grass and

weeds of astonishing height and luxuriance. They are often higher than

a man's head, when mounted on horse back. An exact account of the size

and rankness of the weeds, flowering plants, and wild grass on the rich

alluvial prairies of Illinois and Missouri, would appear to those who

have never seen them, like an idle tale. Still more than the rolling

prairies, they strike the eye as a dead level, but they generally have

a slight inclination, sufficient to carry off the water.

The dry prairies are generally destitute of springs and bushes, but

are covered with weeds, flowering plants and wild grass. The roundings

of their undulations are so gentle, that to the eye, taking in a

large surface at a single view, they appear as a dead level; but in

travelling over them their undulations fully appear. The ravines

and gullies occasionally found, fully indicate, that they have a

sufficient inclination to communicate a quick motion to the waters,

which fall upon them. This is by far the largest class of prairies

in the western country. Prairies of this description are frequently

found in Illinois; the largest of which, called "grand prairie," is a

hundred miles in length, by fifty in breadth. They are often found in

Indiana, Missouri and Texas; but they appear displayed on a magnificent

scale, between the western border of the State of Missouri, and the

Rocky mountains. Here, are the appropriate ranges for the buffalo, wild

cattle and horses. Here are the plains, without wood or water, where

the traveller may wander for days, and see the sun rise and set in an

ocean of grass. Here he may travel, day after day, under a cloudless

ardor of the sun, and not find a stream of water to slake his thirst,

or a solitary tree for shelter and shade.

The general aspect of the Mississippi valley, in regard to woodland

and prairies, may in a summary manner, be thus stated:--The surface,

in a state of nature, from the Alleghany mountains to the western

border of Ohio, is covered with a dense forest. Here, are the first

indications of prairies. Proceeding westward through Indiana, Illinois

and Missouri, the prairies become larger and more frequent, until

at last, it becomes all prairie to the base of the Rocky mountains.

It is a fact, beyond all question, that more than half of the great

Mississippi valley is smooth prairie, entirely destitute of timber.

Large portions of the valley will support a dense population, and

become inhabited; but the larger prairies will remain uncultivated

for ages. They are fit haunts only for the adventurous hunter, or the

wandering shepherd.

During the season of vegetation, no adequate idea can be conveyed by

description, of the number, forms, varieties, scents and hues of the

flowering plants on the western prairies. The violet, and the more

humble and modest kinds of flowers, which show their blossoms in early

spring, not being able to compete with the rank grass and weeds around

them, soon become choked and lost to the view; but the taller and more

hardy kinds, successfully struggle for display, and rear their heads

high enough to be seen. They have tall and arrowy stems, spiked or

tassellated heads, and the blossoms are of great size, grandeur and

splendor, but not much delicacy of fragrance. As the season advances,

distinct successions of dominant hues prevail. In spring, the prevalent

color of the prairie flowers, is bluish purple--in midsummer, red,

slightly tinged with yellow--in autumn, yellow. At this season of the

year, the flowers are very large, generally, of the sunflower form, and

they are so profusely scattered over the prairies, as to present to the

imagination an immense surface of gilding.

And this country of dense forests and rich prairies, is intersected

with large and navigable rivers. These, alive as they are with

their steamboats, keel and flat boats, afford great facilities for

travelling, and for the transportation of merchandize and produce. The

prairies and woodland also, present great facilities for travelling,

and the transportation of goods. They are often, in a state of nature,

so smooth, so gently undulating, and of such an unbroken surface, that

carriages may run over them without interruption or delay.

Such are the general outlines and features of the great Mississippi

valley; but a complete description would require volumes. Nature has

laid off her work here, upon a magnificent scale, and finished it with

a liberal hand. Its natural productions are rich and abundant. Its

waters abound with fish--its soil teems with an exuberance of trees,

plants and blossoms--rich mines lie emboweled beneath the surface--and

wild game are profusely scattered over its prairies, woodland and

rivers. To the husbandman, it presents itself in a more attractive

aspect, than the granite hills and rocky soil of New-England. It has

increased in population and wealth, incomparably greater than any other

section of the world; and ere long, it will contain a majority of the

population of the United States.

And now, it only remains, most respectfully to take leave of my

readers. Those who have traced the TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS through

the foregoing pages, I hope, may have enjoyed all its pleasures,

without incurring its attendant hardships and fatigue.

APPENDIX.

Territory of Michigan.

This Territory is bounded by the national boundary line on the east

and north, by the Mississippi river on the west, and by the States of

Illinois, Indiana and Ohio on the south. These boundaries include a

vast extent of territory; but as that portion of it which lies to the

north and west of Lake Michigan and the State of Illinois is for the

most part a wilderness, having only some small settlements on Green

Bay, the Milwake and Mississippi, my remarks will be confined to that

part of it commonly called the peninsula, lying between lakes Erie and

Michigan.

_Population._--This territory is estimated by good judges to contain

between thirty-five and forty thousand inhabitants. The rapid and

increasing tide of emigration into it, induces the belief that it will

soon be admitted as a State into the Union. Its present and increasing

importance may be in a great measure attributed to the enterprising,

active and energetic talents of its late governor, Lewis Cass, the

present Secretary of War. His personal exertions and enlightened

policy, not only facilitated its settlement, but developed its vast and

various resources. A large portion of its inhabitants are from New-York

and the Eastern States, and are as active and industrious as those

are in the sections of country from which they came. They make rapid

improvements; and in a few years, the country will not be behind the

flourishing State of Ohio, in farms and villages.

_Face of the Country._--That part immediately bordering on lakes Erie,

St. Clair and Huron, and their connecting waters, is generally rather

level and heavily timbered, but somewhat deficient in good water. In

the interior, it becomes gently undulating, occasionally well timbered,

and interspersed with oak openings, plains and prairies. The plains

are frequently covered with such a regular, beautiful and thrifty

growth of timber, so free from underbrush, as to wear the aspect of

a cultivated forest. They are more easily improved than the heavy

timbered land, and produce full as well. The openings are often rather

deficient in timber, though they are not unfrequently skirted with

plains, or contain patches of woodland, from which an ample supply

may be obtained, not only for fuel, but for building, fencing and all

other fanning purposes, if used with economy. They usually require but

little, and sometimes no labor to prepare them for the plough; three

or four yoke of cattle are found to be amply sufficient to break them

up the first time, after which they are cultivated with nearly as much

ease as old improved lands. They are found to be excellent for wheat,

to improve by cultivation, and usually to produce a good crop of corn

the first season.

The prairies generally support a heavy growth of grass--are free from

timber, and may be divided into two classes. One is called dry, and

the other is denominated wet prairies. The former possess a rich soil,

are easily cultivated, and generally yield in rich abundance almost

every kind of produce which might be expected to flourish in forty-two

degrees north latitude, especially those on St. Joseph's river. And the

latter often prove serviceable, not only in affording early pasture,

but in supplying the emigrant with the means of wintering his cattle;

and may with a little labor, frequently be made to yield an abundant

supply of excellent hay. The interior of the territory is well watered

with rivers, creeks and small lakes; many of which contain an unusual

quantity of fish. There are several salt springs, which have not yet

been tried nor improved, situated in different parts of the territory,

all of which have been reserved by the United States; but it is not

certain that any of them will prove very valuable. By boring a number

of feet, the water would improve, and might, in some cases at least,

not only justify the erection of extensive works for the manufacture of

salt, but prove also a source of revenue to the United States, as well

as afford to the manufacturer the means of accumulating wealth.

The surveyed part of the territory is laid out by the United States

into townships of six miles square, which are divided into thirty-six

sections or square miles, containing each six hundred and forty acres.

These are subdivided, by imaginary lines, into quarter and half quarter

sections; the latter of which contain each eighty acres, is the

smallest quantity sold by the United States, and may, as well as the

larger tracts, be selected by the purchaser. Though there is a small

tract of land which proves rather unhealthy at the mouth of Huron,

Saginaw and Rouge rivers, as well as at the mouth of Brownstown and

Swan creeks, owing to the sluggishness of the water at the outlet of

these streams, yet the climate of the surveyed part of the territory

is mild, lying between forty-one degrees thirty-nine minutes, and

forty-two degrees thirty-four minutes north latitude. The air is

salubrious, and the water generally clear. The soil, which produces in

rich abundance wheat rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, Indian corn, and

potatoes, as well as all kinds of vegetables usually cultivated in the

same latitude, consists of such a variety, that it cannot fail to suit

the choice of almost every person in the pursuit of agriculture. Fruit,

of course, has not yet been tested in the interior, for the want

of time, except peaches, which do exceedingly well; but if I may be

permitted to draw an inference, from the quality of the various kinds

which grow in great abundance on the French plantations, along the

margin of Detroit river, as well as on other parts of the great chain

of navigable waters, then I presume I shall be allowed to say, that the

soil of Michigan is equal, for the production of fruit, to that of any

State in the Union. The pear trees along this river, which were planted

in the early settlement by the French, are remarkably large, very tall,

and extremely thrifty and beautiful, and bear a most delicious fruit,

which generally sells from two to four shillings per bushel. Apples, at

Detroit, vary from twelve to fifty cents, and may generally be procured

by the bushel, for the latter price, even in winter. Cider, in the

fall, is from one and a half to two dollars per barrel, for the juice.

Currants, blackberries, black and red raspberries and cherries bring

from three to four cents per quart; though the earliest of these, as

well as whortle berries and strawberries, command sixpence. Plumbs are

scarce, because they have not been generally cultivated, though they

are likewise found to do well.

The price of unsold wild land is fixed and uniform, being one dollar

and twenty-five cents per acre, the terms ready money, and the title

indisputable, as it comes direct from the United States, under the

seal of the President. The richest, most fertile, and perhaps more

beautiful part of the territory, is generally thought to be adjacent to

the St. Joseph's river and its various branches; which, from present

appearances, bids fair to become speedily settled; settlements began

to form on it a year before it was offered for sale. It only came in

market in May, 1834, and such has been the influx of emigration to this

part of the territory, that the Legislature in October last, formed

twelve new counties, mostly thereon, and organized two of that number.

This part of the territory possesses several copious mill streams,

particularly Hog-creek, the Dowagiake, Christianna, Pigeon, Crooked

and Portage rivers, a few of which have already been improved, by

the erection of saw and grist mills. The climate of this part of the

territory, though mild, is apparently more subject to wind than the

valley of the Ohio river. The prevailing wind is the southwest; and as

it crosses a large tract of prairie country in Illinois and Indiana,

comes here with much force, and in winter is somewhat piercing.

Considerable snow falls; nevertheless it is very favorable to wheat,

rye, potatoes and turnips, and though not very adverse, yet not so

congenial as the valley of the Ohio river, to southern corn and the

more tender grains and esculents. Fruits, of course, have not yet been

cultivated here, except a few apples and peaches, by the French which

appear to do well.

The prairies in this quarter are of the richest soil, and may be

ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the ground in the spring.

They usually produce thirty or forty bushels of wheat to the acre; and

from thirty to eighty of corn have been raised from the same quantity

of ground, in all the prairies that have as yet been occupied: four

hundred acres of corn were cultivated on Beardsley's prairie last year,

which having been improved the year before averaged fifty bushels to

the acre. These prairies not unfrequently produce thirty or forty

bushels of corn to the acre, the first season, without being ploughed

or hoed after planting.

The surveyed part of the territory is divided into three United States

land districts, containing each one land office; one of which is at

Detroit, one at Monroe and one at Bronson, in the county of Kalamazoo.

The rivers Grand, St. Joseph, Raisin, Huron, Clinton, Rouge, Kalamazoo

and Shiawassee, interlocking in different parts of the territory, not

only irrigate the country in a beautiful manner, but offer unparalleled

inducements for canaling, and with comparatively but little expense,

as there would be no mountains, nor probably rock strata to cut

through. It is already in contemplation, by means of the Grand

river and Clinton, or the St. Joseph's and Raisin, to open a water

communication across the peninsula, by means of a canal, which would

terminate at Detroit or Monroe; and probably at no distant period, it

will not only be undertaken, but will be accomplished in such a manner

as to accommodate both these places in this respect. A company was

incorporated, by an act of the Legislature, last fall, under the title

of the "Summit Portage Canal and Road Company," with a capital of ten

thousand dollars, to be divided into one thousand shares of ten dollars

each, for the purpose of cutting a canal west of Lake Michigan, to

connect the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers at what is usually termed the

Portage of the Ouisconsin, and to construct a turnpike road on said

Portage, parallel to said canal; and also to construct another turnpike

road from the lower extremity of the rapids of the Kaukauin, on the

east side of the Fox river, on the most direct and eligible route to

Winnebago lake, and for the erection of piers, wharves, warehouses

and other public buildings and improvements, in and about said canal

and turnpike, for commercial purposes.--Michigan extends at present

west to the Mississippi river; but it is expected the territory will

shortly be divided, and a new territory set off west of Lake Michigan;

and organized by the name of Ouisconsin or Huron. The territory was

originally owned and occupied by emigrants from France; consequently

the old inhabitants or first settlers are mostly French.

WAYNE COUNTY--contains about seven thousand inhabitants, many of

whom are French. Its seat of justice is Detroit. Hamtranck, Detroit

and Springwells. These towns, which lie in the northeast part of the

country, border on Detroit river, and are rather level, and but poorly

supplied with water. The northern part of the two latter is somewhat

broken by marsh and wet prairie; but near the centre of Springwells

is a tract, containing some excellent arable land not yet entered,

lying within from six to ten miles of Detroit, where a new settlement

has recently been formed, and through which a road has lately been

opened, leading from Detroit to Farmington. The towns of Pekin, Nankin

and Plymouth are well supplied with water by the river Rouge and its

various branches, which afford several eligible mill sites, and which

have already been advantageously improved by the erection thereon of

saw and grist mills. Pekin is heavily timbered with white and black

ash, white and black oak, beech, maple and sugar tree. The land is

rolling, and the soil rich and fertile, consisting of sand, loam and

some clay. The northern and southern part of the town of Nankin has

much the same appearance as Pekin, though the soil is more sandy, and

requires less labor to cultivate it; yet it yields quite as well;

but the middle is plains and openings, of an inferior quality and

soil. Plymouth has likewise a similar appearance to Pekin, though the

northern part is more rolling, yet even here the timber is the same,

with the addition of black walnut; but the soil is generally of a

superior quality.

_Huron._--This town is watered by a delightsome river, of the same

name, whose waters are very transparent and abound with fish. It runs

through the town diagonally, exhibiting in many places rich bottom

lands, often bounded on one or both sides, by high sloping banks,

and not unfrequently skirted with beautiful plains. Though a great

proportion of this town is rather destitute of running streams, yet the

soil in general is fertile, and for the most part easily cultivated.

The eastern part is oak openings and plains of a good quality,

interspersed with groves of heavy timber which often contain a small

black ash swamp, and sometimes a wet or dry prairie; but the south part

is heavily timbered with white and black ash, white oak, beech and

maple, with occasionally a whitewood. The southwest corner is low land,

and contains a large wet prairie.

_Brownstown_ is watered by the Huron river, Muddy and Brownstown

creeks. The north-western part of this town is but poorly watered, and

exhibits alternately oak openings, plains and prairies, occasionally

interspersed with groves of heavy timber. The southeastern part is

rather level and heavily timbered, except small tracts at the mouths of

Huron river and Brownstown creek, which consist of prairies that are

more or less inundated with water.

_Montguagon_ embraces Gross' Isle, and is situate on Detroit river.

It is gently undulating, possesses a fine quarry of limestone, and a

rich soil, supporting a thrifty and heavy growth of white oak, hickory,

beech, maple, white and black ash.

MONROE COUNTY--contains a population of about four thousand, many of

whom are French. There are three villages in this county, namely,

Monroe, Frenchtown and Port Lawrence. The first of these, which is

the seat of justice for the county, is a flourishing village, situate

on the river Raisin, about six miles from lake Erie, and thirty-six

from Detroit. The United States' turnpike, from the latter place to

the Ohio State line, passes through it, and here was situated the bank

of Monroe. It possesses an ample supply of water power for propelling

hydraulic machinery, a part of which has already been converted to

the use of saw and grist mills, as well as to the use of machines for

carding and dressing cloth.

The United States have made a survey of Plaisance Bay harbor, at the

mouth of the river, with a view of improving the same. Monroe is now

the second village in the peninsula, as it regards population; and

should they succeed in forming a good harbor at the mouth of the river,

as it possesses water power, it may yet equal, if not rival Detroit.

The county is generally well watered; the north-eastern part is rather

level and heavily timbered; but the western and southern part is

rolling land, alternately abounding in prairies, openings, or heavy

groves of timber. The soil of this county is uniformly rich, and of a

very superior quality.

WASHTENAW COUNTY--contains about four thousand inhabitants, who are,

with a few exceptions, Americans. Its seat of justice is Ann Arbor, a

village of five years' growth, situate on the river Huron, forty miles

west of Detroit, containing about ninety dwelling houses. Ypsilanti,

the second village in the county as to population, is likewise situate

on the Huron, about ten miles below Ann Arbor, at the place where the

United States' turnpike, from Detroit to Chicago, crosses it.

This county contains twelve mercantile establishments, three

distilleries, one fanning mill factory, one oil factory, one gunsmith,

one wagon maker, five flouring mills, thirteen saw mills, and two

machines for carding and dressing cloth. It abounds in select and

common schools, and contains many mechanics. Its surface is gently

undulating and beautiful; and its soil prolific, consisting of a deep

black sand, loam and some clay. It exhibits in succession, beautiful

prairies, oak openings, and heavy groves of timber, consisting of

white, red and black oak, beech, walnut, whitewood, bass, elm, maple

and butternut, with almost all other kinds that usually grow in

forty-two degrees north latitude, evergreen excepted. The river Huron,

of lake Erie, meanders through the centre of it north and south;

is navigable for boats and rafts to the lake, and with its several

branches water the middle; the head waters of the Shiawassee the north,

and the rivers Raisin and Saline and their branches, the south part

of said county. It has numerous and extensive water privileges for

facilitating manufactures.

MACOMB COUNTY--contains about two thousand five hundred inhabitants, a

considerable number of whom are French. The north-eastern and eastern

part of this county is in general rather level, and for the most part

heavily timbered; yet it is sufficiently uneven to drain off and leave

no stagnant waters; but the western part is rolling land, somewhat

broken, being very hilly and uneven, and consisting of oak openings,

plains, and some prairie land.

The plains are remarkably free from underbrush, and are, as well as

the prairies and openings, very rich and fertile, producing not only

wheat, but every other kind of grain in rich abundance. The Clinton

river, together with its numerous tributaries, irrigate this county in

a beautiful manner. It possesses advantages over many of the peninsular

counties, on account of its proximity to the great chain of navigable

waters. It fronts on lake St. Clair; and the river Clinton, which

runs through the entire county, nearly in the centre, may easily be

rendered navigable for batteaux, as high up as Rochester. And for the

accomplishment of which a company has already been formed and were

incorporated last fall by an act of the Legislature. This river is now

navigable to Mt. Clemens, for vessels of considerable burthen; and

when the obstructions at the mouth of the river are removed, for which

object an application has been made to Congress for an appropriation,

then any vessels or steamboats on the lake may come up to the village,

a distance of six miles, by water.

This county is very well supplied with water power, it has now in

operation seven saw mills, and two grist mills, and embraces four

stores, three distilleries, two asheries, and six blacksmith shops. Its

seat of justice is Mt. Clemens, a flourishing village situate on the

Clinton river, at the place where the United States' road from Detroit

to fort Gratiot crosses it. It lies four and a half miles from the

lake, by land, and twenty northeastwardly from Detroit.

_Washington_ lies in the northwest corner of the county, and consists

principally of oak openings and plains, though it has some prairie

land. The openings and plains are extremely free from underbrush and

prove to be excellent for the cultivation of wheat. The south part

of the town is rolling land, exhibiting a rich, and for the most

part a sandy soil, though it is sometimes composed of sand and loam

intermixed; but the north part is what is commonly called broken land,

being very hilly and uneven, and not unfrequently exhibits granitic

boulders in great plenty.

_Shelby and Ray_ consist principally of gentle undulating and heavy

timbered land, interspersed occasionally with oak openings. They are

well watered and possess a very productive soil.

_Harrison_ is in general rather level, and the north part though

somewhat swampy is susceptible of being converted into excellent

meadow.

_Clinton_ possesses generally a rich soil, is heavily timbered and

embraces a marsh or wet prairie of considerable extent on its eastern

border adjacent to the lake shore, the greater part of which, however,

if properly ditched, would prove to be good natural meadow. The

northern part of the town is gently undulating and well supplied with

water, of which the southern part is too deficient, being rather level.

OAKLAND COUNTY--contains about six thousand inhabitants, all Americans.

It has three villages, each with a mill on its border, namely, Pontiac,

Auburn and Rochester; the first of which is the seat of justice for

the county, and is situated twenty-eight miles northwest of Detroit,

on the Clinton river, where the United States' road from Detroit to

Saginaw crosses it. This county presents a great variety of soil, and

upon examination will be found to suit the choice of almost every

person in the pursuit of agriculture. The rivers Clinton, Rouge and

Huron, interlocking in different parts extend their many branches, and

irrigate the county in a beautiful manner.

_Troy_ embraces townships one and two south in range eleven east, is

situate in the southeast quarter of the county, and is principally

timbered land; township two in this town is entirely of this

description, is heavily wooded with black and white walnut, linden,

white, red and black oak, and the westerly half is of that description

usually denominated rolling timbered land, and in quality of soil,

is not surpassed by any in the territory; but township one of that

description called plains, interspersed with marshes, and is of an

inferior quality.

_Bloomfield_ presents a variety of soil, which may be divided into

three classes, oak openings, plains and timbered land. The country in

the neighborhood of the lakes is oak openings, not so good for grass,

but producing wheat in rich abundance--I would mention that two farmers

in the vicinity of Wing lake, harvested one hundred and thirty acres

of excellent wheat the last season. The north of Bloomfield is of this

description, but the south part is timbered land.

_Pontiac_ is generally oak openings of a good quality, but inferior to

the lands of Bloomfield.

_Oakland._--The south part of this town is timbered land with a rich

soil, and the north part plains and openings of a good quality.

The town of Troy is watered by a branch of the Rouge, and the branches

of Red river which empty into the Clinton. Bloomfield is watered by

three branches of the Rouge, which, meandering through the county,

enable every farmer to partake of their privileges. The towns of

Pontiac and Oakland are watered by the Clinton river, Paint and Stony

creeks and the extreme branches of the Huron. All these streams possess

great privileges for hydraulic machinery. The towns of Pontiac and

Oakland now contain twelve saw mills, four flouring mills, three

fulling mills, three carding machines and one woollen factory. In

Bloomfield are four saw mills and one grist mill. In Farmington two saw

mills and one grist mill. Perhaps no country of like extent so level

possesses more water power.

ST. CLAIR COUNTY--possesses great commercial advantages, as it lies on

the great chain of navigable waters. It is bounded east by lake Huron

and the river St. Clair, which separates it from Canada; south by lake

St. Clair and the county of Macomb, west by the counties of Macomb

and Lapeer, and north by Sanilac. Black, Pine and Belle rivers, Mill

creek and their branches, as well as several smaller streams water

this country. The first of these streams is navigable for vessels of

considerable burthen, as far up as Mill creek; but Belle and Pine

rivers are ascended only a very short distance in batteaux. This

country is generally rather level, the eastern and southern part is

gently undulating, rich, fertile and most heavily timbered, though

there is occasionally some prairie land on the border of lake St.

Clair, and along the southern margin of St. Clair river. The northern

and western part of this country is comparatively of a light, and for

the most part sandy soil, though tolerably productive, and interspersed

with swamps and lowland. A great proportion of the timber in this

quarter is pine, though it is often intermixed with hard wood and not

unfrequently interspersed with groves of tamerack, in some instances

with spruce, and often on the shore of lake Huron, with red and white

cedar.

There are now in operation in this county, several of the most

extensive saw mills in the territory, which are constantly engaged

in manufacturing pine boards, planks, &c. and which, together with

shingles, constitute at present the principal article of trade in the

country. And as lumber may be conveyed from this county by water to

any port, not only on the great lakes, but on their connecting waters,

therefore the pine timber must ultimately become very valuable. Almost

all the pine now used at Detroit for building, comes from this county,

as it is the only one in the surveyed part of the territory that is

well supplied with this valuable building material. The United States'

road from Detroit to fort Gratiot runs through the centre of this

county, and about twelve miles west of the village of Palmer, which

is the seat of justice for the county; and which is situate at the

junction of Pine and St. Clair rivers, about twelve miles south of fort

Gratiot, and sixty by water northeast of Detroit.

ST. JOSEPH'S COUNTY--is perhaps the best in the territory, both as

to water privileges and the fertility of its soil. It is watered by

the St. Joseph's river and its various branches, many of which afford

numerous water privileges, particularly Hog creek, Pigeon, Portage and

Crooked rivers, which may be considered copious and excellent mill

streams. A saw mill has already been put in operation on Crooked

river, and several others have been commenced on the same creek and

about Pigeon prairie. The water in this county is uniformly pure and

healthy, the climate mild, and the face of the country moderately

undulating; consisting principally of oak openings and prairies. There

is however a sufficiency of timber in it generally, and from the

Grand Traverse on the northwest side of the river St. Joseph's, as

high up I believe as Portage river, is a belt of excellent timbered

land which is well supplied with water. The principal prairies in

this county are Sturges, Nottawa Sapee and White Pigeon. The first of

these, Sturges prairie, has a beautiful appearance, and is exuberant

in fertility, but is not convenient for water and but tolerably so to

good timber--a few families are located on it. Nottawa Sapee, part of

which is embraced within the Indian reserve, is an excellent prairie,

and settlements have commenced on it. But Pigeon prairie is the most

valuable one in the St. Joseph's country, as well as the most densely

peopled, and perhaps it will not be deemed invidious to say it is the

best settlement in the St. Joseph's country, whether we regard the

number of its inhabitants or their intelligence and wealth. The soil

of these prairies may be considered equal to that of any land in the

United States. The usual mode of cultivating these, as well as all

other prairies in the vicinity of the river St. Joseph's, is to break

up the soil immediately with the plough at the same time dropping the

corn on the edge of the furrow in such a manner that it may be covered

by the succeeding one; in this manner without any other cultivation,

they often produce thirty to fifty bushels of corn to the acre the

first season, though sometimes it becomes necessary to go through and

cut down some of the rankest weeds. The counties of Branch, Barry and

Eaton, and all the country north of township four, north; west of the

principal meridian, south of the county of Michilimackinac, and east of

the line between ranges twelve and thirteen west, and of lake Michigan

is attached to St. Joseph's.

CASS COUNTY---contains a population of two thousand, and is likewise

watered by the St. Joseph's river and its branches, several of

which afford good mill privileges, particularly the Dowagiake and

Christianna, which are rapid and durable streams. A mill has already

been erected and is now in operation on the Christianna, near Young's

prairie.

The face of this county is similar to that of St. Joseph's county;

though some parts are undulating, yet in general it is level,

sufficiently uneven however to drain off and leave no stagnant waters.

The timber is principally oak, ash, elm, sugar tree, cherry, black and

white walnut and hickory, with a variety of other kinds intermixed.

The country is generally open, and you can ride with a wheel carriage

through the wood land with almost the same ease you can over the

prairies, being not in the least interrupted with underbrush. In every

part of the county the roads are good. Though some parts of it are

but thinly timbered, yet along the Dowagiake from its source to its

mouth there is a broad belt of excellent timbered and very rich land,

from one to several miles wide, also along the upper portion of the

Christianna, extending north of its source, and thence across to the

Dowagiake is a fine belt of woodland. This county includes within

its boundaries the following prairies, namely, Four Mile, Beardsley,

Townsend's, McKenney's, La Grange, Pokagon and Young's, besides several

small ones, not however known by any particular name. The prairies here

are of the richest quality of soil; may be ploughed in two days after

the frost leaves the ground in spring, and frequently produce thirty

or forty bushels of corn to the acre the first season, without being

ploughed or hoed after planting. The three last mentioned prairies are

conveniently situate to mill streams, and principally surrounded with

heavy timbered land, but they are nearly all taken up by purchasers.

Four Mile prairie is not so happily situate with regard to mills or

timbered land; but nevertheless is fast filling up. From thirty to

eighty bushels of corn and forty of wheat are usually raised from an

acre in all the prairies where the soil has been subdued by previous

cultivation. Every other kind of grain as well as vegetables are

produced in about the same proportion.

The only town yet laid out in this county is Edwardsburgh, which is the

temporary county seat. It is situate on the border of Pleasant lake,

and on the northeast corner of Beardsley's prairie. The United States'

road from Detroit to Chicago passes through it, as well as the road

from fort Wayne to Pokagon, to Niles', to Young's and to Townsend's

prairies, and to Coquillard in Indiana. All these places except fort

Wayne are situate within ten miles of it. From the town platte, or

village, you have a view not only of the prairie, but also of Pleasant

lake.--The prairie is four miles in extent and the lake covers about

one hundred acres. Fish are abundant in all the streams and small

lakes--forty three that would weigh from one to three pounds were

caught with a hook and line in Pleasant lake by two persons in thirty

minutes. The water in this lake is very pure, you can see the bottom

where the depth of water is fifteen feet. The country is healthy,

several large families who settled here before the land was offered for

sale, and who have resided here for three years, have not had a case

of fever nor any other kind of sickness, except what has resulted from

accident.

The counties of Berrien and Van Buren and all the country north of the

same to lake Michigan is attached at present to Cass county.

BERRIEN COUNTY, not organized, has in it a large proportion of superior

timbered land, but has no prairies of much importance. The settlements

in this county, though few, are scattered along the river, and the

population does not exceed thirty-five families. But from the nature

of the country, I am inclined to believe it will be the most populous

county on the St. Joseph's.

The rich timbered land, though now avoided for the prairies, will

ultimately be in demand, and will afford many dense and excellent

settlements.--Through the timbered land in this county run several

small creeks, which, with their numerous branches afford an additional

convenience to the farmer which he cannot enjoy in the prairies nor in

the barrens. Besides the heavy timbered and prairie land, there are

large tracts of what are here called barrens, being of a light soil

comparatively speaking, though very productive, and which are thinly

covered with white and black oak, sometimes of stinted growth, but

mostly of a handsome and useful size. The soil is generally a fine

sand, mixed with decayed vegetables and sometimes gravelly, with here

and there a granitic boulder. The soil of the timbered land is of a

loose sandy nature, black with fertility, and eminently adapted to

culture. That of the prairies is nearly of the same nature after the

sod has been reduced by repeated ploughing. In the timbered land we

find white and black walnut, several kinds of ash, also oak, poplar,

lynn, beech, elm, hickory, sugar tree, &c. The southeast part of this

county is well supplied with water, and possesses several mill sites,

some of which have already been improved. Ford's saw and grist mill,

on the Dowagiake, have been for some time in operation. There is

also a saw mill just ready to commence operation at the mouth of the

Dowagiake, and several others have been commenced on the same stream.

There is but one village regularly laid out in this county, which is

called Niles. It is situate on the St. Joseph's, a short distance above

the confluence of the Dowagiake with that river. The first framed house

in it was erected in December, 1833. Next summer it is expected there

will be considerable building there. Last season, though there were

no accommodations, yet by far the greatest portion of merchandize,

&c. destined for the St. Joseph's country, when conveyed by water was

landed there.--Next spring will be built two warehouses, there are now

two stores and a post office. Post offices have been established at the

mouth of the St. Joseph's called Saranac, at Pokagon, southwest corner

of town six south in range sixteen west, at Lagrange in the middle of

town six south of range fifteen west, at Pigeon prairie, at Sturgis'

prairie, and at the Grand Traverse.

LAPEER, SHIAWASSEE AND SAGINAW.--These counties are not yet organized,

but attached to Oakland county. There are no inhabitants in Lapeer,

and but few settlers at present in Saginaw and Shiawassee. The face of

these two counties is very similar to Oakland.

SAGINAW--is watered by the Shiawassee, Flint, Cass, Tittibawassee and

Hare rivers. The most of these streams are navigable for boats; their

junction forms the Saginaw river which is navigable for sloops twenty

miles to the village which bears the same name, and which is to be the

seat of justice for said county. The United States have established a

cantonment here, and laid out a road from this place to Detroit, which

is not yet finished. When this is completed, it is more than probable

that it will settle as speedily as any county in the territory, as the

soil is very favorable to agriculture.

SHIAWASSEE.--The soil of this county is rich, and the face of the

country gently undulating, in some instances rolling, exhibiting oak

openings and heavy groves of timber. The Shiawassee river which is a

beautiful, meandering stream, and navigable for boats and rafts to the

lake, with its several branches, waters the middle and southeast part.

The head branches of Grand and Looking Glass rivers, the southwest

part, and Swartz's creek, the Flint and Mistegayock rivers, the

northeast part of said county.

CALHOUN.--This county has lately been organized and its seat of justice

is the town of Marshall, pleasantly situated on the north bank of

the Kalamazoo river. This river and its branches afford many fine

mill privileges. The soil is rich and gently undulating, consisting

principally of burr oak openings, which are frequently interspersed

with prairies. In the southwest part of the county is a small tract of

pine timber.

JACKSON--has lately been organized and its seat of justice is the

town of Jackson, situated near Grand river. The west half of it is

undulating, and consists principally of burr and white oak openings,

interspersed occasionally with prairies. It abounds in springs and

possesses a fertile soil. The northeast part is heavily timbered and

somewhat intersected with marshes and small lakes. The soil, however,

of this part, is rich and well adapted for meadow. Grand river is an

excellent stream of pure water, quick, yet navigable for canoes from

its junction with its south branch, quite through the county and to

lake Michigan.

KALAMAZOO.--This is one of the newly organized counties. Its seat of

justice is the town of Bronson, pleasantly situated on the south bank

of the Kalamazoo river. The land office has lately been removed to this

place from St. Joseph. The face of this county in general is moderately

undulating, though sometimes rolling. It exhibits principally burr

oak openings, interspersed with rich fertile and dry prairies, and

not unfrequently intersected with groves of first rate timbered land.

The character of the soil is in general either a black sand or a rich

loam. In the southeast corner of this county is an excellent tract of

woodland, covered with a heavy but beautiful grove of sugar maple. Gull

and Round prairies are the two largest in this county, and are equal

to any in the territory for beauty and fertility. The first of these,

Gull prairie, is situate in the vicinity of a beautiful lake, as well

as adjacent to the margin of a romantic creek, both of which bear the

same name. This lake is about four miles long, and its waters which

are very transparent are said to contain white fish. The creek is very

rapid and affords hydraulic privileges equal to any in the territory.

Prairie Round, which lies in the southwest part of the county, is

about four miles broad, and is principally surrounded with woodland;

near its centre there is a beautiful grove of timber of about a mile

in diameter, consisting of sugar maple, black walnut and hickory. This

county is well supplied with water. The Kalamazoo river which runs

through it is a rapid meandering stream, yet navigable for boats. Its

surface is frequently chequered with islands and its banks occasionally

broken.

BRANCH.--This county is attached to St. Joseph's. A large portion

of it, particularly the southern part, is heavily timbered land,

consisting principally of black and white walnut, sugar maple,

whitewood, lynn, and some other kinds in smaller quantities. The

Chicago road which runs through the northern part of this county,

passes principally through oak openings, which are occasionally

intersected with prairies.

HILLSDALE.--This county is attached to Lenawee. The north part of it is

principally oak openings of a good quality, but the southern part is

heavily wooded with sugar maple, whitewood, beech, black walnut, ash,

&c. The face of this county is rather uneven and the soil in general

consists of a rich black loam. The southern part is timbered land. This

county is well supplied with water. The St. Joseph's of lake Michigan,

as well as the St. Joseph's of Maumee, the Grand river, Tiffin's and

the river Raisin all head in this county, and with their numerous

branches water it in a beautiful manner.

LEANEWEE COUNTY--contains at present about fifteen hundred inhabitants.

The northern part of this county has much the same appearance as

Washtenaw, but the southern part is principally timbered land. It

contains a tamerack swamp of considerable extent in the southeast

corner, yet notwithstanding, the character of its soil and climate

is, generally, very inviting. It is principally watered by the Ottawa

creek, Tiffin's and Raisin rivers and their branches. It contains

two villages each with a mill on their borders, namely, Tecumseh and

Adrian--the former of which is the seat of justice for the county. It

is situate at the junction of Landman's creek with the river Raisin,

and lies about fifty-five miles southwest of Detroit.

BARRY, EATON AND INGHAM COUNTIES--lie on Grand river and its

tributaries. This is the largest river in the peninsula. It empties

into lake Michigan, two hundred and forty-five miles south of

Michilimackinac, and forty-five miles north of the mouth of St. Joseph,

is sixty rods wide at its mouth, and has sufficient depth of water to

admit vessels drawing eight feet. On its south bank, near its entrance

into the lake, is a pleasant situation for a town, the land being

excellent, and gently inclining to the north and west, giving at the

same time a fine view of the river and lake; but the opposite shore at

the same place has a sandy, sterile appearance.

For about sixty miles up this river, on the north side, the Ottawas

hold possession. There are between eight and nine hundred of these

people living along Grand river and its tributaries, but many of their

most populous villages are on land now belonging to the United States.

This river is the largest stream that waters the west part of the

peninsula of Michigan, being two hundred and seventy miles in length,

its windings included, and navigable two hundred and forty miles for

batteaux; receiving in its course a great number of tributary streams,

among which are Portage, Red Cedar, Looking Glass, Soft Maple, Muscota,

Flat, Rouge and Thorn Apple rivers. All of these, except the last

named, put in on the right bank of the Grand river. Its south branch

rises in the open country, near the source of the Raisin, and after

pursuing a winding course of thirty miles, meets with the Portage

river, which comes in from the east and intersects the above branch in

town two south of range one west.

Portage river, which has its course through a chain of low marshy

prairies, is a deep, muddy stream, about fifteen yards wide at its

mouth. Its branches interlock with those of the Huron of lake Erie, and

the Indians pass from the former into the latter, with their canoes,

by crossing a portage of one mile and a half. It is probable that

at no distant period, a canal will be constructed near the route of

these two rivers, so as to afford a safe and easy inland communication

between lakes Erie and Michigan. The distance from Detroit to the

mouth of Grand river, by way of Michilimackinac, is five hundred and

sixty miles. This route in the spring and fall is attended with much

uncertainty; and, in case of a war with the English, the navigation

of the straits of Detroit and St. Clair would be rendered doubly

dangerous. These difficulties would be obviated by a communication by

water, through the interior. The land at the Portage rises forty or

fifty feet above the level of the streams on each side; but a level

prairie two or three miles to the west of that place, is said to extend

from one river to the other.

From the junction of the Portage and south branches, this river pursues

a northwest course till it meets with Soft Maple river, in town seven

north of range six west; receiving in that distance Red Cedar and

Looking Glass rivers from the east, and Grindstone, Red and Sebewa

creeks from the south and southwest.

Grindstone creek, so named from a sandstone ledge through which it

runs, empties into the river about twenty miles below the mouth of the

Portage branch. It is twenty miles long, affording several good sites

for mills, and runs mostly through an open beautiful country; but is in

some instances skirted with bottoms of heavy timbered land.

From the mouth of this creek to that of Looking Glass river, a distance

of forty-five miles in a direct line, the Grand river runs through

a tract of timbered land, which is several miles in extent on each

side, abounding in creeks and springs of water, and bearing a growth

of maple, basswood, cherry, oak, ash, whitewood, elm, black walnut,

butternut, and some other kinds in lesser quantities. Below Looking

Glass river, for forty or fifty miles, tracts of open land are found

along the banks, but extensive forests immediately in the rear. The

river bottoms are from a quarter of a mile to one mile in width, and

the timbered lands are covered with a rank growth of rushes, (Equisetum

hyemale) on which the Indians keep their horses during the winter. It

is found that cattle and horses do better on these rushes, than when

kept on hay; and it would seem from their abundance, that nature here

intended them as a substitute for that article. The surface of the land

after leaving the river bottoms is rolling; and it rises sufficiently

high to give rapidity to the numerous creeks that so abundantly

irrigate this part of the country.

Red Cedar river is thirty-five yards wide, and puts in about midway

between Grindstone creek and Looking Glass river. It rises in

Washtenaw and Shiawassee counties, and can be ascended in small boats

twenty-five or thirty miles. A few miles below the mouth of this

stream, is a ledge of sandstone, which forms a perpendicular wall

of twenty-five or thirty feet in height, on each side of the river.

This ledge consists of square blocks of stone, of a suitable size to

be used in building, and which are rendered more valuable, from the

circumstance of their being on the banks of a large navigable river,

which with its tributaries, will facilitate its transportation to

various sections of the territory.

A bed of iron ore has been discovered in the northeast bank of the

river immediately below this ledge; and, indeed, many of the stones in

the lower part of the ledge, have a great resemblance to blocks of cast

iron--presenting a rusty surface, very dense, and when broken, have, in

a striking degree, the color and appearance of iron itself.

Four miles above the mouth of the Looking Glass river, is the village

of P'Shimnacon, (Apple land,) which is inhabited by eight or ten Ottawa

families, who have a number of enclosed fields in which they raise

corn, potatoes, and other vegetables usually cultivated by the Indians.

The village receives its name from Pyrus Coronaria, (Crab Apple,) which

grows in great abundance on the rich bottoms in its vicinity. Sebewa

creek puts into the river on the southwest side, one mile above this

village. It is about twenty miles long, sufficiently large for mills,

and for the last four miles is very rapid, with a hard, stony bottom.

Looking Glass river which is about forty yards wide, rises in

Shiawassee county, and can be ascended in canoes almost to its source.

The country near this river, for fifteen miles above its mouth, is what

may be termed first rate timbered land; but above that point it is of

an inferior quality, more open, and abounding in tamerack swamps and

wet prairies.

It is about eight miles by land from the mouth of Looking Glass to

that of Soft Maple river, which is about sixty yards wide at its

entrance into Grand river. It heads in Shiawassee and Saginaw counties,

and runs nearly a due west course until it unites with Grand river,

at the Indian village of Chigau-mish-kene. This village consists of

twenty-five houses, and has a population of near two hundred souls

under the noted chief Cocoose. Here is about one thousand acres of

bottom land, of a deep, black soil, that has been cleared by the

Indians; a part of which they still occupy as planting ground; but the

land at this village, as well as that at P'Shimnacon, has been ceded

to the United States, and will no doubt, in a short time, be occupied

by an industrious white population. There is a large trail leading

from this village, by way of Shiawassee to Detroit, a distance of one

hundred and thirty miles.

The Grand river here changes its course; and with the exception of

twelve miles in length, below Rouge river, runs nearly a west course

to lake Michigan.

Two miles further down, is the entrance of Muscota river, (River of the

Plains,) which comes in from the north, with a rapid current, and is

about forty feet wide. The country through which it runs is but little

known, as no lands have been surveyed north of Grand river, below Soft

Maple.

It is eighteen miles by land from the mouth of Muscota to that of

Co-cob-au-gwosh, or Flat river, with several considerable creeks

putting into Grand river, on each side, in the intermediate distance.

Ke-wa-goosh-cum's Indian village is situate immediately below the mouth

of Flat river, and consists of sixteen lodges. It is supposed that the

line between the United States and the Indian lands will intersect the

Grand river near this place.

Flat river is a shallow stream, about eight rods wide; and in ascending

has a general course of north by northeast. Of the country along this

river, but little is at present known. It is reported, however, to be

of a hilly, broken aspect; and many places near its source, to abound

in lakes and swamps. There is a small lake that discharges its waters

into this river, about sixty miles above its mouth, in which it is

said by the Indians, that white fish are found in great numbers--a

circumstance that is rendered more extraordinary, from the fact that

this fish has never been seen near the mouth of Grand river, although

it is often taken near the entrances of most of the other tributaries

of lake Michigan.

It is ten miles from Flat to Thorn Apple river, which comes in from

the south, and, with its numerous tributaries, waters a large extent

of country. Its main branch rises in town two and three north of range

three west, and after running a westerly course for more than forty

miles, it takes a northward direction, in which it continues until it

empties into Grand river, in the south part of town seven north of

range two west.

There is a suitable proportion both of open and timber land along this

stream, and a great part of each kind may be termed first rate. Two

Indian villages are situated at the distance of twenty and twenty-six

miles up this river, and another at its mouth, under the Ottawa chief

Nong-gee. The last mentioned village is inhabited by twelve or fourteen

families who are by far the most industrious and respectable band that

reside in that part of the country.

Rouge river, is twenty miles, including the meanderings, northwest

of Thorn Apple river. It is about forty miles long, rising near the

sources of the Maskegon, and has its banks shaded by lofty forests of

white pine. From this place to Muck-a-ta-sha's village, a distance of

twelve miles, the Grand river pursues a south direction; after which it

runs nearly a due west course to lake Michigan.

Six miles above the mouth of the last mentioned inlet, is a rapid of

one mile in length, where the river, which is here fifty-two rods wide,

is supposed to fall twenty-five feet. The banks at the head of the

rapid, are not more than four feet above the level of the river, and

they keep a horizontal level until you arrive at the foot of the rapid,

where they are nearly thirty feet above the water; and consequently

afford convenient opportunities for profitably appropriating a part

of the river, by means of a canal or sluice, to the use of mills or

machinery.

There is a missionary establishment, (the Thomas station) at this

place, under the superintendence of the Rev. I. M'Coy. The mission

family at present consists of a school teacher, a blacksmith, and two

or three agriculturists. The school was open in the winter of 1827, and

now has about thirty Indian children, who receive their board, clothing

and tuition at the expense of the establishment.

There is a trail leading southwest from the rapids to the Kalamazoo

river, and thence to the rivers Raisin and Huron. Another leads

directly to the mouth of Thorn Apple river, a distance of only ten

miles on the trail, but twenty-five round the curve of the river. The

country within this bend, excepting immediately along the river, is of

a rough, hilly character, a great part consisting of oak openings, of

a barren appearance, with a few scattering groves of white pine. Most

of the land, however, in the neighborhood of this tract, is of a good

quality and timbered with all kinds that usually grow on rich alluvial

soils.

There is a salt spring four miles below the rapids, which rises out

of the ground about half a mile from the river on the east side. The

water is said to be, both as to quantity and quality, sufficient to

warrant the establishment of works for the manufacturing of that useful

article. Near this place is also a bed of gypsum, of a fine quality,

which will probably, in time, be of great importance to agriculturists

in many of the western parts of Michigan.

Muck-a-ta-sha, or Blackskin's village, is six miles below the rapids,

and is near the bend of the river, on an elevated prairie. There is

also another village twenty miles lower down the river. From the rapids

to the lake, a distance of thirty-six miles, the river is no where less

than four feet deep. The current at the former place is too powerful

to be ascended with loaded boats. The country along the river for the

first fifteen or twenty miles above the lake is generally level, and in

many instances swampy, with lofty forests, of various kinds of timber,

and bearing an almost impenetrable thicket of undergrowth.

The country watered by the Grand river, consists of between six and

seven thousand square miles; and considering its central position

in the territory, the general fertility of the soil on the several

branches of that stream, the convenience of a safe and good harbor at

its mouth, together with its many other important natural advantages,

we may be fully justified in the opinion, that it will, at no very

distant period, become one of the most important sections of Michigan.

SKETCH

OF THE

TEXIAN REVOLUTION.

First Campaign.