I concluded to return to the north by water. I procured a conveyance
from the interior to St. Felipe on horseback; and here I learnt that
there was a schooner sixty miles down the river at Columbia, bound to
New-Orleans, which would sail in a few days. I could find no conveyance
to Columbia, either by land or water. I found a wagon going down for
merchandize, on which I put my baggage; and in company with another
gentleman, whom I found in the same predicament with myself, started
off on foot.
St. Felipe is the head quarters of Austin's colony. It is a small
village, on a high prairie, immediately on the south bank of the Brazos
river, nearly one hundred miles from the sea. It stands on the first
high land you come to on the river; and at this spot the high rolling
country commences. Its situation is beautiful and commanding. It has
two taverns, four or five stores, a court house, and perhaps twenty
dwelling houses; but there are only two or three good looking buildings
in the place. The opposite side of the river is low, and covered with a
heavy growth of timber.
St. Felipe, like most of the southern villages, is not without its
billiard room; and its usual, I might say invariable accompaniment, the
grog shop.--Billiards is a pleasant and manly game enough; and good
exercise for a sedentary man; and if indulged in only for amusement,
is as innocent as any recreation whatever. It is a game much played in
the middle and southern portions of the United States; and men of the
first respectability are found at the table. But in this section of the
country, it cannot be recommended as a safe place for recreation. It is
generally used as a mere gambling apparatus; and a person meets with a
class of society not the most civil, sober and peaceable.
Not long since, a young man played with an old gambler, until he became
tired, and started off. The gambler came out at the door, and called
him back; but finding he could not induce him to return, out of mere
wantonness and sport, commenced throwing brickbats at him. The young
man was a cripple, and could neither run, nor successfully contend
with his athletic opponent. He bore it as long as he could, then drew
a pistol and shot him through the body. He fell dead upon the spot,
without uttering a word. He had been an overbearing, troublesome
fellow, and his death was the cause of joy rather than sorrow.
One night, while I was at St. Felipe, two young men returned from a
bloody affray, thirty miles down the river. Early the next morning, two
other men, fully armed, entered the town in pursuit, and paraded the
streets in hostile array. I enquired into the history of the case, and
found the following particulars.
Sometime previous, one of the young men paid his addresses to a young
lady, and was engaged to be married. He went to the north on some
mercantile business; and during his absence, another young man by the
name of Thompson, commenced his particular attentions to the young
lady; and the match was strongly advocated by his father. On his return
from the north, he and another young man who had married a sister of
the lady in question, payed a visit to her father's--stayed all night,
and started in the forenoon, to return to St. Felipe. One of them
was in a light gig-wagon, the other on horseback. They had proceeded
but a few miles when they heard the clattering of horses' feet, at
full speed, behind them. On looking round, they saw young Thompson's
father, and a doctor of the neighborhood, in close pursuit, with
pistols in hand. The young men were also armed; and immediately shots
were exchanged by both parties. But such was the hurry and agitation
of the moment, that none took effect. They all dismounted at once,
and at it they went, in a desperate contest for life and death. The
doctor, not liking this part of the game, or not feeling exactly brave
on the occasion, was contented to stand aloof, and see the battle
rage. Old Thompson was a powerful man, and about an equal match for
both of his opponents. He laid about him like a giant; and sometimes
had one grounded, and then the other; and apparently, would shortly
gain the victory over them both. At length, he knocked one down, and
seemed determined to despatch him at once. He seized him by the throat,
and called upon the doctor for a knife. The other young man saw at a
glance the critical state of the contest--he jumped to the wagon, took
out a loaded gun, just in time to stop the doctor, by his threats,
from handing the knife, then took deliberate aim at Thompson, and shot
him through the body. Thompson fell back, said he was a dead man, and
expired in a few minutes. The doctor ran to his horse, mounted and fled
with all convenient speed. The young men, having been rather roughly
handled, were considerably bruised, although not seriously injured.
They picked up the deadly weapons of the battle-field, as trophies of
victory, and made the best of their way to St. Felipe.
In a short time, the doctor, young Thompson and some others, came to
the battle-ground, and carried home the dead body; and without waiting
to attend the funeral, young Thompson and the doctor started after the
young men, to avenge his death. It caused no small stir at St. Felipe,
when they arrived, and paraded the streets fully armed, and breathing
out threatenings. The young men took to a store, and with arms in their
hands, awaited the result. The civil authority, however, interfered.
The young men gave themselves up to the custody of the law, and
Thompson and the doctor were persuaded to go home, and abide a trial by
jury.
It is no pleasure to me to give an account of such lawless battles;
but as a faithful chronicler of events I could not pass them over in
silence. Texas, however, is not more the theatre of them, than many
places in the United States. If the value of an article is enhanced in
proportion to its scarcity, it is more excusable to fight for a lady
here, than elsewhere; for, according to the best estimate I could make,
there are ten men to one woman in the country. And could the surplus
maiden population of New-England be induced to emigrate to Texas, they
would meet with a cordial reception; and it might prove, not only
advantageous to themselves, but highly beneficial to the country.
In two miles from the town, we came to the flat, low country. It was,
generally, muddy and very disagreeable and fatiguing to travel over.
It was all an open prairie country, except a small skirt of timber
immediately on the banks of the little streams; and almost a dead
level, except in one place, twelve miles from Columbia. Here, a hundred
acres or more rise thirty or forty feet above the general level of the
country, and by way of distinction, is called "the mound." Near the
streams, the ground was a little elevated; and at such places, we found
houses, and some small improvements, probably, in eight or ten miles of
each other. We saw a great many herds of deer, and flocks of wild geese
and ducks.
We were almost four days in performing the route; and were excessively
fatigued, when we entered the small village of Columbia. This is a
new village, having two or three stores, a tavern, and half a dozen
dwelling houses. It is situated on a level prairie, two miles from the
river, and ten above Brazoria. There is a small village immediately on
the bank of the river, called Bell's Landing; and the space between the
two, is low bottom land, heavily covered with timber.
At this landing, vessels come up and unload their merchandize, destined
for the upper country. It has a tavern, two stores, a large warehouse,
and three or four dwelling houses. Here I was informed, the schooner
had dropped down the stream. I stopped over night, and rather than
walk, I obtained a log canoe, and a man to paddle me down to Brazoria.
The tide sets up a little further than Bell's Landing, and our boat,
having the advantage of its ebb and the current also, floated us down
in two hours.
Brazoria is quite a large village. I found some very good buildings,
public houses, stores, and as usual, a billiard room. A newspaper is
published here, called the Brazoria Gazette; and I believe is the
only one printed in all Texas. The situation of the town is low and
unpleasant; and subject to the fever and ague. I found a steamboat
here, going up the river; but the vessel had gone further down; so we
started in the canoe after her; and rowing fifteen miles we found her
by the side of the river, taking in bales of cotton. I was glad to get
on board the vessel, and be relieved at once from the tediousness and
fatigue of pursuit, and from the uncertainty of obtaining a passage to
the United States.
The vessel remained here, until the next day, when we sailed with a
light breeze down the stream. The river is very crooked, so that it is
twice as far from Brazoria to its mouth by water, as it is by land.
We had to tie the vessel up to a tree at night, as it was too dark to
proceed. The next day in the afternoon, we hauled up again, on account
of a head wind. The mate stept ashore to spend the time in hunting.
The river is lined with timber on both sides, about a mile in width;
and then, the country is generally an open, level prairie. The mate
became entirely bewildered and lost; could not find his way back to
the vessel; and was obliged to camp out for the night. In the morning,
the captain sent scouts in various directions after him; but they all
returned without success. The captain concluded he must have gone
towards the mouth of the river; so he hoisted sail and started on.
Nearly noon, the mate made his appearance on the river bank, nearly
opposite the vessel; and the captain sent his boat for him. He was
quite exhausted.--He had wandered about almost the whole time, and
could neither find a house, road or river. He said he never had been
used to hunting; but he could not conceive why people were so fond of
it, as it was much more pain than pleasure to him. 'Every one to his
trade.' A hunter would have found as little pleasure on the ocean, as
the sailor did on the land. This hunting expedition afforded no little
merriment to the captain and crew, at his expense, during the voyage.
The timber on the river banks became less, as we descended; and
for five miles above the mouth, there is none at all. A small town
called Velasco is situated on the sandy beach, at the river's
mouth--containing one public house, two stores, four or five dwelling
houses, and the ruins of an old Spanish fort. We stayed two days here,
waiting for a fair wind to cross the bar. I frequently amused myself
by walking for miles on the sandy beach, and picking up some of the
pretty shells among the millions that lay scattered along. It is as
fine a walk as a pensive maiden, in contemplative mood, could desire.
On the one hand, is the ever-toiling ocean, whose waves break upon
the sand bars, and in giddy globes of foam, lash the shore, and spend
their force beneath your feet: on the other, a low, sandy bluff, and
then an extended lawn, stretching far away into the interior, and its
utmost verge skirted with stately forest trees; and the pathway itself,
smooth, hard and level, and bedecked with countless beautiful shells of
various sizes, shapes and hues.
The Brazos is an unpleasant stream. Its waters are at all times muddy;
its banks are generally low and present a raw edge to the eye as you
pass along; and in many places the navigation is rendered difficult,
by reason of the many snags. At its mouth, there is a bar, generally
having not more than five or six feet of water; and the channel so
narrow that a vessel can only pass through with a fair wind. Three
vessels had been wrecked on the coast the past season. The remains of
two of them, lay in sight partly buried in the sand.
In the spring, the waters of all the streams in Texas are high, and
bring down from the upper country, large quantities of timber. The
mouth of the Brazos, and a long distance on the seashore, is lined
with large masses of trees; and from this source the inhabitants of
Velasco obtain their fuel.