There is an independent frankness in these western people that I
admire. It is a kind of individuality of character--every one appears
to act out himself, without reference to others. At the north, people
are too apt to follow the multitude, or a particular file leader;
and by them, shape their opinions and actions. In order to tell
whether they will do a particular act, they must look about them, and
ascertain what others will say of it. The politician must conform to
the usages of his party, whatever they may be. He must think as they
think, and act as they act, whether it be agreeable to the dictates
of his own conscience or not. The pious lady must be exactly in the
fashion--conform to certain leaders--be charitable by rule--and kind,
in the most approved mode. If any one has the boldness to take an
independent course, in fashion, politics or religion, he is looked upon
with suspicion, as a dangerous innovator, and must not be tolerated.
The dogs of war are let loose upon him, and he is hunted down for
entertaining an opinion of his own. In this manner, individual
character becomes swallowed up and lost in that of the multitude.
But in this region, nature is true to herself. The useless and
cumbersome shackles of custom and party are thrown aside with
disdain; and the individual walks forth in his own native freedom and
independence. He does not shape his course by what his neighbors may
say, do or think; but acts according to the dictates of his own heart,
and from his own opinion of right and wrong. He is charitable, kind
and hospitable--not in a grudging, supercilious manner; or in a way
calculated to display himself; but with such an air of open-hearted
welcome, as to make the recipient feel at ease, and doubles the value
of the kindness bestowed. How can man be niggardly and mean, among the
teeming prairies and stately forests of the West, where nature herself,
by showering down her blessings with a bountiful hand, teaches him also
to be liberal!
And I have often to myself reversed the question and asked, how can
northern people be other than inhospitable and niggardly, living in
such a crabbed climate, and on such a barren soil. They cannot, in
general, afford to be liberal; and were it otherwise, the severe labor
and economy--the continual dealing in small things--the constant rack
of brains, to find some method to turn a penny to advantage--that must
be gone through with, to gain a large estate, seem to drive out of the
head of the possessor all notions of liberality, and tend to steel the
heart against noble acts of kindness. That which costs much, and is
rarely obtained, is highly valued, and not lightly parted with. We are
not well educated in the school of hospitality. We awkwardly perform
its teachings--seldom with gracefulness and a hearty welcome.
Among our passengers, there were twenty-three negro slaves, men and
women; bought in Kentucky by negro speculators, to be transported to
Natchez, where the market is high, to be sold. One of them was taken
with the cholera, and in twelve hours died. He was put into a rough
box, and when we stopped to wood, buried on shore. This was the only
case we had, and the only one I ever witnessed. It is a dreadful
disease; but has been too often professionally described, for me to
attempt it.
These negroes are singular beings. Although one of their number had
died; and although they were slaves, and going to be sold to, they
knew not whom, or what hardships they might be made to endure, yet
they were always merry--talking, laughing, singing, dancing, in one
continued round. At every place we stopped, they would run on shore,
and while one sung, clapped his hands, and beat time with his foot,
the others would foot it merrily on the smooth ground. Knowing their
destination, their thoughtless gayety sometimes produced disagreeable
sensations. There are some situations, however, where ignorance and
thoughtlessness are a blessing. They were not confined at all, but
appeared to be kindly treated, and to enjoy every liberty they might,
consistent with their situation.
The banks of the Mississippi look high enough at low water; probably
thirty feet; presenting a raw edge next the stream, and generally
covered with a dense forest of lofty trees; yet at high water, they are
generally overflowed, except at the high bluffs. The most prominent of
these, are what are called the Iron Banks, Chickasaw Bluffs, Walnut
Hills, and the site of the city of Natchez--all these are on the east
side of the river. I do not remember of seeing a single high bluff on
the west side, below the mouth of the Ohio. There are occasionally
small elevations over which the river does not flow; and villages
erected on them. But every few miles without regard to overflows, log
houses are erected in the wilderness, inhabited by woodcutters; and
their only employment seems to be, to supply the steamboats with wood.
Although wood is cheap, being generally $1,50 a cord, above the mouth
of the Ohio, and from there to Natchez $2,00, yet the demand is so
great, and the forest so near, they make quite a lucrative business of
it.
The river is very crooked, sometimes going five miles to gain one; has
many islands, and some places, full of snags. There are two or three
snag boats employed on the river, and when they get them chiefly out,
the Missouri, which seems to take upon itself the chief regulation
of the stream, brings down at high water a reinforcement equal to the
first supply; so that to keep the river clear of snags, is like the
labor of Sisyphus, who was doomed to roll a stone up a hill, and the
moment he got it near the top, it would roll down again.
The introduction of steamboats on the western waters, has
revolutionized the country. They have opened the deep recesses of the
West, to the free access of mankind, and let in the light of day upon
them. The half-horse and half-alligator race are no longer to be found;
but the inhabitants of this part of creation look, and talk, and act,
and live--very much like human beings. The refinements, elegancies and
luxuries of life are not so generally found here, as in the Atlantic
States; but all the necessaries are every where abundant.
In Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, and all along the river Mississippi, I
found the inhabitants civil and kind; and in no one instance did I ask
for a meal of victuals in vain. It might, sometimes, be a homely one,
and once I recollect, it consisted of meat and bread; but those who
have such a mawkish sensibility that they cannot relish the simple fare
of the forrester, ought never to set a foot on the western world.
The flat boats are still in use on the river. We passed hundreds of
them; some loaded with live stock, others with corn, cotton, &c. They
have hardly any resemblance of a boat. They are sixty or seventy feet
long, ten wide, having corner posts and a square form like a house, and
a flat roof. The current floats them down the stream to the destined
port, the cargoes and boats are both sold, and the hands take passage
on board the steamboats, home.
We stopped at all the villages and towns of any size on the river,
to take and leave passengers and freight; but books give such an
accurate description of them, as to render any particular notice
here unnecessary. Memphis is the most pleasant, Vicksburg the most
flourishing, and Natchez the largest--all on the east side of the river.
There are no large towns on the west side of the river below the mouth
of the Ohio. As prominent as any, perhaps, is New-Madrid, situated
just within the southern border of the State of Missouri. It was
once a much larger village than at present. It is memorable for the
romantic history of its origin under General Morgan, and for the great
earthquakes in 1811 and 1812. Mr. Flint says that these earthquakes
were more severe than any known in our part of the continent. The
shocks were felt more or less throughout the whole western country;
but they were more severe and produced the most disastrous effects in
the region of New-Madrid.--The grave yard of the village, with all
its sleeping tenants was precipitated into the river--the trees were
violently thrown against each other, bent in various directions or
prostrated--the earth burst in many places, and earth, sand and water
were thrown high into the air--thousands of acres were sunk and many
ponds formed--the river became dammed up and flowed backwards--islands
sunk in the stream, and boats as they passed shared the same fate--the
birds of the air became terrified, descended to the earth and flew
into the arms of man to shelter themselves from the commotion of
nature--the whole country for a time became inundated, but as it was
thinly inhabited few lives only were lost. History does not record an
earthquake attended with more terrific circumstances and threatening
a more exterminating war with man and nature, than this. The thriving
country about the village was made desolate, but now it is slowly
regaining its former condition. In this region the country is rich
and beautiful, but the many ponds made by the earthquake render it
unhealthy. New-Madrid is, however, quite a village, transacts much
business and is the most noted landing place for steamboats on the west
side of the river below St. Louis.