The prairies in the western country are all burnt over once a year,
either in spring or fall, but generally in the fall; and the fire is,
undoubtedly, the true cause of the continuance of them. In passing
through the State I saw many of them on fire; and in the night, it
was the grandest exhibition I ever saw. A mountain of flame, thirty
feet high, and of unknown length, moving onward, roaring like "many
waters"--in a gentle, stately movement, and unbroken front--then
impelled by a gust of wind, suddenly breaks itself to pieces, here and
there shooting ahead, whirling itself high in air--all becomes noise,
and strife, and uproar, and disorder. Well might Black Hawk look with
indifference on the puny exhibition of fireworks in New-York, when he
had so often seen fireworks displayed, on such a gigantic scale, on his
own native prairies.
A prairie storm of fire is indeed terrific. Animals and men flee before
it, in vain. When impelled by a strong breeze, the wave of fire passes
on, with the swiftness of the wind; and the utmost speed of the horse
lingers behind. It then assumes a most appalling aspect; roars like a
distant cataract, and destroys every thing in its course. Man takes to
a tree, if he fortunately can find one; sets a back fire; or, as a last
resort, dashes through the flame to windward, and escapes with life;
although often severely scorched; but the deer and the wolf continue to
flee before it, and after a hot pursuit, are run down, overwhelmed and
destroyed.
Much caution should be used, in travelling over an open prairie
country, in the fall of the year, when the grass is dry. Instances were
told me, of the entire destruction of the emigrant and his family by
fire, while on the road to their destined habitation.
I had heard much of the _backwoodsmen_, and supposed, of course, I
should find many of them in Illinois; but after diligent search, I
found none that merited the appellation. The race has become extinct.
Who are the inhabitants of Illinois? A great portion of them, from
the north, recently settled there, and of course, possessing the same
hospitality, sobriety and education as the northern people. They went
out from us; but they are still of us. A person will find as good
society there, as here; only not so much of it. The upper house on Fox
river settlement, was occupied by an intelligent and refined family,
recently from Massachusetts.
Meeting houses and school houses are rare, owing to the sparseness
of the inhabitants; but the country is settling rapidly, and these
deficiencies will soon be supplied. Indeed, so rapidly is the country
settling, that in writing this account of it, I sometimes feel like the
man who hurried home with his wife's bonnet, lest it should be out of
date, before I could get it finished.
Emigrants, going to settle at the West, with their families, would
do well to take their beds, bedding, a moderate supply of culinary
utensils, the most essential of their farming tools, and a good supply
of clothing. These articles are all high there, and somewhat difficult
to be obtained. The more cumbersome of household furniture, such as
chairs, tables, bedsteads, &c. are not so essential; because their
place can be supplied by the ruder articles of domestic manufacture. In
the new settlements, most of the families had chairs or benches, tables
and bedsteads, made on the spot by the husbandmen.
Provisions are cheap, but vary in price according to the demand. Corn,
at Beardstown, is worth twelve and a half cents a bushel; at Hennipen,
twenty-five cents; and on Fox river, fifty cents; and other articles in
proportion.
When the settler arrives at his location, his first business is to
build a log house, which is soon done; then fence in a field, and
it is ready for the plough. The prairie breaks up hard at first,
requiring four yoke of oxen; but after the first breaking, a single
horse can plough it. A good crop is produced the first year; but better
in succeeding years. He had better hoe his Indian corn. It keeps
the ground clear of weeds, and increases the crop; but half of the
cornfields are not hoed at all.
In the fall of the year, he must take especial care that his crops,
stacks of hay, fences, &c. are not burnt, in the general conflagration
of the prairies. To prevent this, as good a method as any is to plough
two or three furrows around his improvements, and at a distance of
about two rods plough as many more; and in a mild day, when the grass
is dry, burn over the space between. If he neglects this, he must keep
a good look out in a dry and windy day. If he sees a smoke to windward,
it will not do to wait until he can see the fire; he must summon all
hands, and set a back fire. With a strong breeze, fire will sometimes
run over the dry prairies faster than a horse. The inhabitants are
often too negligent in this particular. While I was there, a number of
stacks of hay and grain, and two or three houses were burnt, from the
mere negligence of their owners.
But I must bid adieu to the beautiful State of Illinois. To the
practical husbandman, and to the enthusiastic admirer of the beauties
of nature, it is alike attractive; and in which, they both will find
ample scope for the exercise of the powers of body and of mind.
After two or three hours stay at Alton, we started down the stream;
and in seven miles, came to the mouth of the turbid Missouri. Here,
two mighty rivers join their forces, and rolling on with irresistible
power, for thirteen hundred miles, mingle with the waters of the ocean.
The great Missouri, after traversing a vast extent of country, in
various directions, here bears directly down upon the Mississippi; but
the latter, like a coy maiden, shrinks back, recoils at his approach,
and seems to decline the rude embrace; and they travel on together for
forty miles, before the Missouri can unite its muddy waters with those
of the clear and transparent Mississippi. Here, the Missouri, having
at length gained the complete mastery, holds throughout its undisputed
sway; and gives its own peculiar complexion to the united stream.
The appearance is, indeed, quite singular; to see the two rivers
passing along, side by side, in the same channel, such a long distance,
without mingling their waters; and the line, between the muddy and
clear water, is so well defined and distinctly marked, that it can
readily be seen from the shore.
On the western bank of the river, seventeen miles below the mouth of
the Missouri, is the town of ST. LOUIS. The view was fine and imposing,
as we approached it by water; and it is the most pleasantly situated
of any town on the banks of the Mississippi. It stands on an elevated
plain, which gradually rises from the water, to its western extremity.
Back of it, there is a level and extensive prairie, and above the
village, are a number of stately Indian mounds. St. Louis is the most
important town in all the western country; and there is not a town in
the world, such a distance from the sea, that in commercial advantages
can at all compare with it. When we consider its situation, near the
junction of two mighty rivers, the one navigable twenty-five hundred
miles, the other one thousand, and the large navigable branches of
each, and see that this place must be the centre of trade for the
whole, it requires not the gift of prophecy to designate this spot,
as the site of the greatest city of the West. It is now a large town,
chiefly built of brick; has a brisk trade; and probably contains seven
or eight thousand inhabitants. There was a time, when the only craft
on the river was keel boats, and the transportation of goods, arduous
and expensive. Then, this place struggled slowly into existence, and
sometimes remained stationary, or rather declined; but the introduction
of steamboats started it into newness of life and vigor. Its trade is
now daily extending itself, and the town is continually increasing
in population and buildings. A dozen steamboats were lying at the
landing--some bound high up on the rivers; others, to Pittsburgh and
New-Orleans. This seems to be a sort of "half way house," between the
upper and lower country; being a place of general deposit for goods,
destined either way. And St. Louis will never have to contend with a
rival; for there is no other suitable spot near the junction of the two
rivers, to locate a city. She will, therefore, continue to increase in
size, wealth and beauty, and remain in all time to come, the undisputed
"Queen of the West."
There is a land office kept at St. Louis; and plenty of government
land to be obtained for a dollar and a quarter an acre. It is chiefly
settled by Americans; but French settlers are found, and in St. Louis
there are a large number. Considerable trade in peltries is carried on
with the Indians, who come to the principal towns and exchange their
skins for goods. They are continually seen in the streets of St. Louis.
St. Louis has a theatre, and we attended it.--Quite a decent edifice, a
tolerable play, and a full and fashionable audience. I could perceive
no essential difference between this assembly and those of Boston
or New-York. Good society is found here. The streets at night were
quiet; or only disturbed by the sound of the violin on board the flat
boats, or the merry boatman's song. The sky was serene, the air mild,
and we had many a pleasant walk through the town and its environs.
Indeed, there is a peculiar balmy softness in the air, grateful to
the feelings, not to be found in our northern climate. St. Louis is
a pleasant place; and were it not for the stacks of bar lead on the
shore, and some slight peculiarities in the customs of its inhabitants,
it could hardly be distinguished from an eastern city. A steam ferry
boat plies between this place and the opposite shore, and affords a
large profit to its owner.