We went into another chamber. Slave girls brought fresh glasses, candied

fruits, dainties from Arabia Felix. Through the open door, the wide

night air was a discord from this polyphony of silks and gems, of cedar

and spice and ceramic. And there arose the voices of distant women in

song. It was the women of the house, locked from the rooms where men of

the profane world might come and drink tea with the masters.

The song drifted palpitant and humble. My thought went out to the

Mellah--to the place where windows faced outward, where women showed

their faces....

_c._ _Ishmael and Israel_

Forty men, women, children fill the room with a voice. They are Jews,

Jews of the Moorish Mellah. The unveiled faces of the women are fertile,

less metallic, harder than the faces of their sisters. The eyes are

deeper, their consistency more solid. Gaunt determination holds the

warmth of these women like an armor. The men are more variant and less

harmonious. A burnouse or red fez in place of the black would pass most

of them as Arabs. In their eyes the same cunning, the same swift

hardness. Yet underneath dwells a distinction: an enduring spiritual

source--a quiet water--of which the agitation of their external lives is

tributary.

After the song of the Arab minstrels; after the singers of Fez beneath

the Merinidean tombs shouting to the twang of a string; after the fakirs

of the Socco in Tangiers who bounce and prance their monkey shines to

the lilt of an apish cry, to the crash of a scissors; after the mystic

monotone of the Darwish whirling his soul into the Absolute; after the

service of the Ouled-Naïl who sway like trees deep-rooted and who shriek

like Liliths--now, this Jewish music. Ten women step to the center of

the room and squat in a circle around a copper cauldron. They sing, and

as they sing they beat with open palms upon the upturned cauldron. Their

song is in Arabic; it has similitudes with Moorish songs: there are the

ceaseless verses, the narrative design with rhythm and note recurring.

But the women are ample-breasted, leoninely gay. The beat of palms upon

the copper drum rises like a copper wall about the women and the women’s

song.

As a mountain torrent carries the rigor of grim heights through a low

tropic zone, so this music moves through the Moorish Mellah with its

prophetic past. For all its tides of blood and wandering, it is still.

The music of Arab races like stripped steeds; that of the Moor jangles

like bone, snaps like sinew. Here is a song that dwells wide over

fields, tops the cedars of Lebanon, swings with the sun--and yet is but

a prayer. Its immobility has voyaged. The prophets are here; and Ruth

with her eyes fertile as the wheat; and Judith scabbarded in beauty. And

Babylon to which, as Tangiers now, the scum of peoples rose; where magic

parded with penury, coins glinted in blood. Spain is here, a

perpendicular starkness rising from the low tide of the music--Spain,

with her singing seers. And Araby has dropped her gold into a humble

song. As in the streets where the street women sing, here is the

cry--shrill, lithic: dangling but a moment on the plaint like a

barbarous dart upon a mother’s breast.

* * * * *

Like the Jews, the Moslems are the People of a Book. The Bible is the

compiled and edited remnant of a literature ranging from epigram to

epic, into whose making went a thousand years. The Koran is the work of

a generation, and of a man. Whatever divergence from the prophetic mouth

is due to the disciples, Omar and Ali,[4] it is sure that before

Mohammed there was no Koran and after him his text has changed only

through processes of natural error. Before the Koran, the Arabs

possessed an anthology of verse, lapidic, utterly objective: poems

singing the loves and tribulations of the desert. These did not go, like

the ancestral heritage of the Hebrews, into their holy book. After the

Koran, this strain, celebrating passion, thirst, hospitality and war,

went on. The heightened activity of the Arabs enlarged their letters.

But the Koran, unlike what came after as before, is subjective. Pictures

of Paradise, explicit laws, ways of the wrath of Allah, pleadings and

campaigns, float in the swim of an inchoate exhortation. There is no

reason to doubt that the Prophet did dictate the Koran--and revised it

little. The book’s substance is an anarchic potpourri of what Mohammed

must have thought out for himself, together with what he heard in

synagogue and church. There is a canny set of laws: there is an endless

repetition of the delights of heaven “where are the gardens under which

flow waters” and of the miraculous nature of the virgins there, who are

never unclean, being perpetual lovers and perpetual virgins. There is

great harping on the unpleasantness of Hell. There are periodic

outbursts against the Jews and much gentle reproval of the Christians

whom Mohammed wooed with worshipful references to Jesus and to Mary.

There is, above all, ceaseless plagiary from the Old Testament tales,

whose beauty and significance are usually scrapped in Mohammed’s zest to

get to his main point. And the point, as a rule, is that Abraham, Moses

and Jesus were all true Moslems, that the Hebrews knew full well the

ultimate prophecy of Mohammed, that their Book tells them so, and that

only their wickedness keeps them from avowal. Finally, the book holds to

a running comment on contemporary events and neighboring peoples; and

the effect of this, within the holy Script, must have been vast since

here was virtually God himself dictating an editorial page on headline

stories.

Such matters lay in a great jumble in Mohammed’s head; for the Prophet

was too great and too busy a man to keep a clear literary mind. And in

such jumble they poured forth to make the verbose, extraordinarily

rhythmed mosaic of the 114 Suras of the Koran. The book is above all an

impressionistic portrait of Mohammed; in Mohammed, of the greatest

figure and of the greatest era of the Arabs. Even in translation, it

reveals the intense afflatus of a man who, from the age of forty till

his death at sixty-three, conquered a world, prepared successors to

conquer others, ruled savagely and wisely over a race as unruly as it

was naturally keen, won the love even of his foes and the submission of

almost countless maidens.

Mohammed was a great statesman, a great captain, a great lawmaker, a

great poet: he was not the creator of a great religion. Innumerable

mystic and religious men have worshiped Allah and performed the

ceremonials of the Prophet. But the Mohammedanism of Mohammed, of the

Koran, of the _source_ is not essentially a religion at all. A religion

is a revealed experience of the relation between a man and his cosmos.

If it is not experience, it may be philosophy but it is less than a

religion. If it is not revealed, it may be an ecstatic or poetic state,

but it is less than a religion. Its conclusion may be suicide for the

human spirit, as in some religions of India; its field of consciousness

may be narrowly naturalistic or animistic as in the religions of the

savage. But no plan for life on earth, however exalted, is of itself a

religion; no scheme for reaching heaven. Nor is a system which exploits

an already existing sense of God as a means toward a determined human

goal a system of religion. This, moreover, is the system of Mohammed. It

employs the latent religiosity of the Arab world to a pragmatic end. It

exploits the idea of God as modern pragmatism the idea of progress.

Mohammed uplifted a race. Where, in this, is his equal? At his hand an

anarchy of tribes filling the desert with internecine blood: and from

this anarchy he prepared the force which mastered half Africa, half

Asia, Spain--which bound with great houses and great culture Bagdad to

Toledo. The religious energy of the Arabs had for ages straggled and

fumed in loss; creating but a variety of impotence. The religious energy

of the Jews had thrown forth light in the world, and left the Jewish

body desolate. Rome? The immense creature, camped about the Latin Sea,

accepted Christ in its senility. Its principle of growth had not been

Christ; Christ was to help to rot and to transform it. Mohammed studied

Rome. He observed this one live element in that immense decay. The

religious element. He took it, as the modern pragmatist takes the idea

of progress and of science, to express himself and to advance his

people.

He lived in a religious age. God for seven hundred years had made a

wrangling and a shambles of the marts of the east. God alone, in all

Rome, seemed alive. God served to energize Mohammed’s act. In the Koran,

Allah is a voice bearing no fresh body of eternity or love, bearing no

experience of Nature or of a spirit that transcends it: Allah is at best

the charged echo of past holy voices, here applied to spur the Arab on.

The quantity that gave Islam weight was the force of its leader and the

latent might of his race: God was the _n_ by which the Prophet raised

this quantity to the pitch of action.

And Mohammed is the full rich presence in the Koran. Though God speaks,

Mohammed has the eye, the answer, the blessing and the curse for all the

ambient world. Mohammed tells the Arab about God chiefly that God is

telling the Arab about Mohammed. What else he says is not the crux of

the matter. Mohammed is Prophet, to obey him is good, to disobey him is

hell, the Jews are a bad lot, Allah is ruthless but to the believer

kind--such degradations from the old rationales of faith are not

dissonant from religion. Mohammed proceeds, after Moses, to instruct the

faithful in diet, in justice, in commerce, marriage, war. His plan of

success generates its power shrewdly from the normal appetites: man’s

dream of heaven, his fear of hell, his love of woman, his thirst for

water, his need of forgiveness whenever he has burned his fingers. Here,

too, there is no divergence from the usual theocratic Code. But the

Koran is distinguished by the relative place of God and of man’s

experience of God within the system.

Go back not to the Mishna, and the Prophets; but to the barbarous Torah.

Science and method are as demoded here as ethics. Blood and corporal

anguish are obsessive symbols. Justice is a matter of plagues and

trumpetings. Yet is God present. These old fathers would be abstract

save for the dwelling in them of a universal principle, called Jehovah.

It is He who moves these semi-savage tales. Hunger for a common

experience which, being both true and beautiful, is divine, informs the

acts of these men, directs their faltering passage. In the suicidal will

of the Buddhist, in the Dionysian dance of the Greek, in the metaphysic

of Paul or of Plotinus, dwells ever variant this single purpose: the

will to fuse (though it be to fuse with loss) man’s personal act and his

experience of the universal. This is religion. It is not in the

religious mechanics of Mohammed.

The Prophet invites Heraclius, emperor of Rome, to join or to

acknowledge him. He is denied, of course. But Islam is a “carry-all.” It

assimilates Mary and Jesus quite as it has garbled the Talmud. It places

Mohammed at the top of an agglomeration unified by him from the whirling

chaos of the east. Energy, thus drawn from a hundred confusions, thrusts

in a hundred directions.

* * * * *

If classic Islam is not essentially a religion, it is an Idea. An Idea

in motion. Its motion is horizontal; and its premiss of departure is

success. The follower of the Prophet cannot lose. At the worst comes

death: death in holy warfare means beatitude and houris. But Mohammed

does not lean too heavily on so dim a guerdon. He has genius in the arts

of diplomacy and war. He fights innumerable battles, and nearly always

he wins. When he does lose, he turns defeat into a strategic triumph. In

his first lean years as a Prophet, he has garnered a rare capital for a

religious leader: that capital is material success. He loans out his

prestige at a usurer’s rates. It is clear, soon enough, that to follow

Mohammed means victory in arms, means booty, means fresh women.

Health in Islam became a state of profitable war. From the mobile chaos

of the desert was created this intent mobility of advance. Islam was a

perpetual raid. Its health meant war: and war meant expedition,

conquest, ultimate death. The contrary of war, of health, of Islam--was

then the dwelling in the present life, and was Peace.

What contrast to the Jew in these brother Semites! Their mobility of

steel to the chemic mobility of Judah! The Idea of Islam has indeed for

matrix the unrest, physical and spiritual, of the Roman world. Peoples

stirred, because the great People were broken. The interior displacement

acted like suction on the peripheries of Rome. Dreams of power, opiate

creeds went through the windy world, creating new currents, creating and

moving new masses. Araby was drawn, so: and awoke. But this Idea of the

Arab could not have lived so well within the womb of the world had it

been alien to the Arab soul. In the Arab, as in all desert people,

worked the impulse of expansion.

Here Arab and Jew are one. Who has seen the desert understands: this

indomitable urge born of the sand-sea, to be moving, to pass horizons,

to be moving forever. The desert impulse in the Hebrew was sublimated.

Not his body, but his god should pass horizons! When the Jews’ body

migrated, Jehovah became static. Only when the body took deep roots--in

Palestine, in Spain, in the Talmud at worst (in America perhaps

tomorrow)--could the transfigured Jewish God pass the horizons. But the

balance held: as the Jews’ spirit spread, their body remained an atom.

With the Arabs, it was the body that expanded. Before the Prophet, it

had expanded impotently in civil conflict. Mohammed brought this energy

to order. But even he knew of no principle of expansion higher than the

raid and the empire.

Arabia expanded. Persia, Abyssinia, India, Egypt, the Sahara, Spain

became parts of Islam that was Araby in motion. The Jew discovered that

to spread in the spirit was to be immobile in the life. Not so the Arab.

The Jew learned that only an unmoving and an unmoved God could pass

horizons. But in Islam, to expand still meant to move. The law of

balance between inner and outer energy was not transcended. The Idea of

Islam became all body: all moving, conquering body. Here went the

Moslem energy. The energy that dwelt in that hid precinct of creative

thought was sapped to a low ebb. In the person of Mohammed, there was

energy both for conquest and for the subtler dominance of law and

wisdom. He elected that the ideas, the forms, the rituals, the

experience, and truth which he created should suffice for all time for

his peoples. All their powers might hence be transformed into the

stupendous business of outward conquest.

Of course, this was not strictly to be. Many ideas of Islam were born

after the Prophet’s death. Even the Koran may have been amended. The

Moslem architectures, the Moslem philosophies both mystical and

materialistic, much of the Moslem ritual, would have been strange to

Mohammed. But independent growths of the spirit could not become organic

within Islam. For in the Idea, there was the law that only Body of Islam

could expand: its thought and vision were create, forever. In

consequence, the few new crystallizations called forth by the new needs

of Islamic empire became endowed at once with the old principle of

fixity, with the sanctity of intransigent stagnation. The body moved.

The forms of the body did not move. Wherefore, as soon as the body

ceased to add unto itself by outward conquest, it began to rot.

This is the tragedy of Islam. It is writ large in symbols of the

present. Fez and Rbat and Bagdad are fetid relics of gone loveliness.

Their life has no virtue of rejuvenation; there was in Islam no autonomy

of method for the creating of ideas whereby life is recreated. The Arab

literary language is identical with the Koran’s. Dogma declares that the

hodge-podge splendor of Mohammed’s script is perfection: who shall dare

change perfection? So Arabic literature today is an archaic grimace: a

spirit muffled by the masque of thirteen hundred years. And the spoken

language, as divergent from the classic as French from Latin, is noisy

and yet mute. Moslem architecture has not evolved. The mosque of today

is a faithful imitation of some antique model. Prayer has not changed.

Science has not changed. The Idea of Islam has forbidden its own growth.

But if this death from inanition is patent in modern Islam, it is

implicit in the source. The fruit, only, of the religious impulse lives,

for it alone holds the rounding of life’s circle. The religious act--be

it art or be it ethics--cannot exhaust itself, because each forward step

is an approach to the beginning. The man possessed of religion is

possessed of a universal principle; and what he does cannot die. The

forms and words of his activity may grow archaic--like the sculpture of

Egypt, like the gods of the Rig-Veda. But the activity itself is forever

an approach to the Source. The farther the religious man goes afield,

the closer he will come to the Primordial Fountain, since all his life

is plotted to a circle. And if he lose his life, then will he win it.

But with the unreligious will, each act is a severance from source. The

unreligious is the incomplete. And its symbol is the unreal straight

line which moves away from its beginning.[5]

Even in its classic mosque, Islam betrays its unreligious essence. The

mosque is a patchwork of details, a mosaic of finery for the senses. The

very character of the mosaic is unreligious. For it represents the

analytic, not the One. The minaret has no relation with the aspirant

Phallus, or with the sublimated Phallus of the Christian church. The

minaret is a down-tending structure upon which the muedzin stands, not

to send prayer to Allah, but orders to the people.

The religion of the Koran is a caricature of God drawn in the lying

lines of time and space.

_CHAPTER II_

_HINTERLAND IN SPAIN_

The sun is hidden from this dawn. The snow range is a crest to the south

and east. Air, pouring over, cold and hard like pearls, is the dawn upon

Spain. Tidy huertas are green crystals in the dawn. Villages,

orange-marged, make a pied flash in it. Fig and olive march in armies up

the slopes of the Sierra, toward snow, toward dawn. When the sun stands

at last in the ridge, the day is hot.

This is the south. After Guadix, toward the eastern sea, the human world

grows dim. The carretera, at the entrance of a town, slides in a slough

of mud. Rain is rare and violent; it becomes a torrent from the

impervious mountain. Dark men in black grimed capes walk beside laden

donkeys. Women herd goats; the tuberous udders sticking on the mud.

Children are rhythms in a maze of rags. The eyes of humans are like the

eyes of burros.

The Sierras have disappeared behind the depopulous hills. The verdant

valleys of Granada are folded back. Villages here are hard like the

parched clay. The carretera is a swathe of dust, glittering in the sun.

The land is sere as if a flame dwelt on it. The eyes of humans are

velvet dark, like the eyes of a dream.

Murcia, now. Even the sparse irrigated huertas disappear. The barbarous

abruptness of the soil turns to desert. Villages are a single eyeless

street of houses, abject under the eye of the sun. The world is a

turmoil of yellow waste. The villages are splinters of the waste. Only,

to break the yellow, walls of cactus--a Maya-like green sculpture

matching its lush planes with the harsh planes of the clay. Goats, dusty

and crabbed, crop an invisible herb. The Barbary fig is the olive and

the grape of this land. Villages grow lower, sparser--merge with the

desert. Villages disappear.

Under the sky huge mounds of sterile hill rise now; and on their slopes,

red and advancing with the mirrored sun, are serried shadows. Caves.

Villages of caves. This is below Phœnicia in time. This is Iberia. A

Spanish folk still dwells here.

The hills are steep. There is a row of caves, horizontally curved. Above

each cave is a tiny aperture for smoke. Then comes another row. In the

foreground, the cactus is cultivated for its fruit. There is a hooded

well.

It is not yet noon. But the summer sun has turned the heaven into

irradiant steel. Light and heat strike like solids on the solid soil, on

the intricate levels of the hills. In their rebound, light and heat

become polyphonous, weaving the world into their image.

The sun, rising, faints into its own immensity of heat. And the cave

villages grow larger. Between them, the sterile hills leap in a monotone

against the day’s pressure. A cave town flings sheer to the ridge of a

pyramidal mountain. A hundred threads of smoke thresh the air like

filaments of wire. Caves are dark eyes that hide from the steel heaven.

The eyes of the dwellers are caves.

Shadow is cold. Here is a town with houses. Where the sun strikes the

street, horses, donkeys, moving forms of people gyre and funnel and

become a fume in the sun. Signs on shops, blue shutters, yellow parasols

of women tremble and swerve as if they were in flame. But shadow is

cold.

Outside, there is desert and the sky has melted. All the steel strokes

of the sun, beating down, beating up, are melted: heaven has fallen into

waves. Villages live in this fierce element. Men and women, donkeys and

goats live in this radiant sea.

Over the brow of a _despoblado_, the sun goes. The desert flattens, like

a sea after storm. The sterile hills are farther away, and on the even

plain there is grass. The desert becomes a moor. Salt wort suggests the

ocean. The road circles, catching the sun again. The sun splinters and

breaks on the moor. Huge masses of dried dung, the fuel of these people,

catch a last ray. There is a hill, dark-mottled. The hill is a city. At

the height, there are caves and dwellings cut in clay. At the base,

there is dust: and in the dust are streets.

Sordid wineshops, stores, squat in the dust. All is dust save the people

who are clay; clay black-baked in the sun.

_CHAPTER III_

_ANDALUSIA_

_a._ _El Andalús_

_b._ _The Eye_

_c._ _The Bowels_

_d._ _A Goddess and Don Juan_

_e._ _The Gypsies Dance_

_f._ _Spain Dances_

_a._ _El Andalús_

In the year of Islam 89 and of Christ 711, an Arab host recruited with

proselytes from the pagan Berbers and the Christian Copts, and captained

by Târik whose name is a fossil in the rock Gibraltar (_Jebel Târik_)

crossed the strait from Africa to Europe. After seven summers, all

Spain, even to the Galician mountains, was in the sway of the Prophet.

To their new conquest the Arabs gave the name Andalús, which means the

land of the west.

Their first pause was in a smiling world. Southern Spain, roughly the

part which is Andalusia now, for many ages had drawn the wandering

hungers of the nations. Here had been Tartessos, the Tarshish of the

thunder of Isaiah, a realm near the present sites of Seville and Cadiz,

known as the Land of Silver and whose greatness was synchronous with

Crete. Here had been Phœnician Malaca and Gades, cities famous for their

gay vice. Here had been Bætican Rome, birthplace of Seneca and of the

Stoic mind which in reality was Spanish. Here, from Babylon, came the

urgent Jews among the indolent Visigoths. A smiling world. On the

breasts of the Sierras, groves of olive and of cork. In the valleys

rivers that were veins of wealth. Luxuriant crops, fat kine, orchards

and vineyards: shade: and by the alternance of sun and cool a natural

culture. Now within this mellowness, the harsh Idea born of the desert

dearth.

Historians will give you the facts: how Andalusia did not hold the Arab:

how he swarmed the mesas of Castile: how he fanned east to the Ebro and

west to the Asturias: how only stubborn knots of Basques withheld him:

how he scaled the abrupt wall of Spain and poured down the suaver

Pyrenees of France; and how at last, near Poictiers, he was stopped by

Charles Martel and driven back forever. The truth is otherwise. Not the

Franks, but the smiling south of Spain stopped Islam. When the Arabs

faced the French at “Tours,” they were turned back already. The desert,

the mountains, the incessant war could not weaken Islam. These were its

food and its health. But Andalusia was poison. A luxuriant land worked

on the spirit of the Arab, causing in the rear a flinching and

dissension. This, several years after the “defeat of Tours,” caused the

return from France.

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