CHAPTER I.

LIST OF NEW WORKS.

The EASTERN QUESTION. By the Rev. MALCOLM MACCOLL, M.A. 8vo. [_Nearly

ready._

SKETCHES of OTTOMAN HISTORY. By the Very Rev. R. W. CHURCH, Dean of St.

Paul’s. 1 vol. crown 8vo. [_In preparation._

A THOUSAND MILES up the NILE; a Journey through Egypt, and Nubia to the

Second Cataract. By AMELIA B. EDWARDS. With Facsimiles of Inscriptions,

Ground Plans, Two Coloured Maps of the Nile from Alexandria to Dongola,

and 80 Illustrations engraved on Wood from Drawings by the Author.

Imperial 8vo. 42_s._

A YEAR in WESTERN FRANCE. By M. BETHAM-EDWARDS, Author of ‘A Winter

with the Swallows’ &c. With Frontispiece View of the Hotel de Ville, La

Rochelle, engraved on Wood. Crown 8vo. 10_s._ 6_d._

OVER the SEA and FAR AWAY; a Narrative of Wanderings Round the World. By

THOMAS W. HINCHCLIFF, M.A. F.R.G.S. President of the Alpine Club. With 14

full-page Illustrations from Photographs and Sketches. Medium 8vo. 21_s._

ITALIAN ALPS; Sketches in the Mountains of Ticino, Lombardy, the

Trentino, and Venetia. By DOUGLAS W. FRESHFIELD, Editor of ‘The Alpine

Journal.’ With Maps and Illustrations. Square crown 8vo. 15_s._

TRAVELS in the CENTRAL CAUCASUS and BASHAN; including Visits to Ararat

and Tabreeze, and Ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz. By the same Author. With

Maps and Illustrations. Square crown 8vo. 18_s._

The FROSTY CAUCASUS; an Account of a Walk through part of the Range, and

of an Ascent of Elbruz in the Summer of 1874. By F. C. GROVE. With Map

and Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 15_s._

The DOLOMITE MOUNTAINS; Excursions through Tyrol, Carinthia, Carniola,

and Friuli, 1861-1863. By J. GILBERT and G. C. CHURCHILL, F.R.G.S. With

numerous Illustrations. Square crown 8vo. 21_s._

UNTRODDEN PEAKS and UNFREQUENTED VALLEYS: a Midsummer Ramble among the

Dolomites. By AMELIA B. EDWARDS. With a Map and 27 Wood Engravings.

Medium 8vo. 21_s._

TYROL and the TYROLESE; being an Account of the People and the Land, in

their Historical, Sporting, and Mountaineering Aspects. By W. A. BAILLIE

GROHMAN. With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 14_s._

The INDIAN ALPS and HOW WE CROSSED THEM; a Narrative of Two Years’

Residence in the Eastern Himalayas, and Two Months’ Tour into the

Interior. By a Lady-PIONEER. With Illustrations from Drawings by the

Author. Imperial 8vo. Map, 42_s._

KEITH JOHNSTON’S GENERAL DICTIONARY of GEOGRAPHY, Descriptive, Physical,

Statistical, and Historical; forming a complete Gazetteer of the World.

New Edition, thoroughly revised. 8vo. 42_s._

The PUBLIC SCHOOLS ATLAS of MODERN GEOGRAPHY, in 31 entirely New Maps.

Edited by the Rev. G. BUTLER, M.A. Imperial 8vo. or imperial 4to. 5_s._

The HISTORICAL GEOGRAPHY of EUROPE. By EDWARD A. FREEMAN, D.C.L. LL.D.

Author of ‘History of the Norman Conquest of England’ &c. With numerous

Maps. 8vo. [_In the press._

The ROMAN FORUM; a Topographical Essay on the Forum and Neighbouring

Localities of Rome. By FRANCIS M. NICHOLS, F.S.A. With Plans and

Illustrations. 8vo. [_Nearly ready._

The PUBLIC SCHOOLS ATLAS of ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY, in 28 entirely New

Coloured Maps. Edited by the Rev. G. BUTLER, M.A. Imperial 8vo. or

imperial 4to. 7_s._ 6_d._

MEMORIALS of the DISCOVERY and EARLY SETTLEMENT of the BERMUDAS or SOMERS

ISLANDS, from 1515 to 1685. By Major-General J. H. LEFROY, R.A. C.B.

F.R.S. &c. Governor of the Bermudas. With Map. 8vo. [_In the press._

GERMAN HOME LIFE. Reprinted from _Fraser’s Magazine_. Second Edition,

thoroughly revised. Crown 8vo. 6_s._

The PUZZLE of LIFE and HOW IT HAS BEEN PUT TOGETHER; a Short History of

Vegetable and Animal Life upon the Earth from the Earliest Times. By

ARTHUR NICOLS, F.R.G.S. With 12 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 5_s._

The GEOLOGY of ENGLAND and WALES; a Concise Account of the Lithological

Characters, Leading Fossils, and Economic Products of the Rocks; with

Notes on the Physical Features of the Country. By HORACE B. WOODWARD,

F.G.S. With a Coloured Map and 29 Wood Engravings. Crown 8vo. 14_s._

London, LONGMANS & CO.

BOSNIA AND THE HERZEGÓVINA

LONDON: PRINTED BY

SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE

AND PARLIAMENT STREET

[Illustration: HERZEGÓVINAN REFUGEES AT RAGUSA. (See p. 428 seqq.)

TO THE RIGHT, TWO RAGUSAN PEASANTS.]

THROUGH

BOSNIA

AND THE

HERZEGÓVINA

ON FOOT

_DURING THE INSURRECTION, AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER 1875_

WITH AN HISTORICAL REVIEW OF BOSNIA

REVISED AND ENLARGED

AND A GLIMPSE AT THE CROATS, SLAVONIANS, AND THE ANCIENT

REPUBLIC OF RAGUSA

[Illustration]

BY ARTHUR J. EVANS, B.A., F.S.A.

_WITH A MAP AND FIFTY-EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS

FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR_

SECOND EDITION

LONDON

LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.

1877

_All rights reserved_

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

Having obtained access to some new authorities on Bosnian history, I have

thought it desirable to make some additions to my ‘Historical Review’ in

the present Edition. I was the more anxious to do this as the brevity

with which I had expressed my views on the most important aspect of

Bosnian history—its connection, namely, with the early history of Western

Protestantism—has led in some quarters to strange misconception. In

setting my conclusions on this head in, I trust, a clearer light, I have

been greatly aided by the recent appearance of Herr Jireček’s _Geschichte

der Bulgaren_, which contains some valuable data from South-Sclavonic

sources touching the tenets and Church government of the Bogomiles, and

their missionary triumphs in Italy and Provence.

I have also added a few considerations on the present state of Bosnia,

the malign and artificial character of the Osmanlì government in that

province, and the reforms which it were most desirable that an united

Europe should enforce.

In doing so—though I, for one, was never so sanguine as to imagine

that the agreement of the great Powers was anything else than a hollow

pretence—I had found it convenient to assume that the Conference was

prepared to speak to Turkey in the only language to which she was capable

of listening. As I write, however, the divisions of Christendom, and,

more than all, the anti-Sclavonic jealousies of Austria-Hungary, have

baffled the efforts of diplomacy; and, after womanish expostulation and

pitiable huckstering, the representatives of Europe have been shown the

door by the Sick Man. The two alternatives apparently left to us are, to

England at least, equally pernicious and equally shameful—a Russo-Turkish

war, or a new cycle of tyranny, agitation, and revolt, ending where it

began, and involving the solution, it may be, of graver questions, than

the fate of one Empire.

PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.

The tour described in this book was not in the slightest degree due to

the Insurrection in Bosnia and the Herzegovina. It was planned before the

outbreak, and was first suggested by the interest which previous visits

to other South-Sclavonic lands had led me to take in the branch of that

race still under the Sultan’s dominion, and owing to a special curiosity

to see a race of Sclavonic Mahometans. My desire of visiting Bosnia was

further whetted by a day spent a few years ago beyond the Bosnian border,

and by the interesting problems suggested by the history and present

state of Illyria. While I and my brother, Lewis Evans, who accompanied

me throughout, were preparing for our journey, the Insurrection in the

Herzegovina broke out, so that it was undertaken rather in spite of than

by reason of that event. During our walk through Bosnia that country also

burst into insurrection; and as we heard many accounts from trustworthy

sources as to the origin of the outbreak, both in Bosnia and the

Herzegovina, I have ventured to give some particulars in the story of our

itinerary.

We were armed with an autograph letter from the Vali Pashà, or

Governor-General of Bosnia and Commander-in-Chief of the Turkish forces,

and owing to this were able to accomplish our tour without serious

molestation, though it must be confessed that we underwent some risks.

With a few short breaks we made our way through the country on foot,

which is perhaps a novelty in Turkish travel. Our only impedimenta

consisted of the knapsack and sleeping gear on our backs, so that we were

entirely independent; and being able to use our legs and arms and sleep

out in the forest, we were able to surmount mountains and penetrate into

districts which, I think I may say, have never been described, and it is

possible never visited, by an ‘European’ before.

If this book should do anything to interest Englishmen in a land and

people among the most interesting in Europe, and to open people’s eyes

to the evils of the government under which the Bosniacs suffer, its

object will have been fully attained. Those who may be inclined to ‘try

Bosnia’ will meet with many hardships. They must be prepared to sleep

out in the open air, in the forest, or on the mountain-side. They will

have now and then to put up with indifferent food, or supply their own

commissariat. They will nowhere meet with mountains so fine as the Alps

of Switzerland or Tyrol, and they will be disappointed if they search

for æsthetic embellishments in the towns. But those who are curious as

to some of the most absorbing political problems of modern Europe; those

who delight in out-of-the-way revelations of antiquity, and who perceive

the high historic and ethnologic interest which attaches to the Southern

Sclaves; and lastly, those who take pleasure in picturesque costumes and

stupendous forest scenery; will be amply rewarded by a visit to Bosnia.

There is much beautiful mountain scenery as well, and the member of the

Alpine Club who has a taste for the jagged outlines of the Dolomites and

the Julian Alps, in spite of a certain amount of attendant limestone

nakedness, may find some peaks worthy of his attention towards the

Montenegrine frontier. It would not be difficult to mention routes of

greater natural attractions than that we followed, and I may observe that

the falls of the Pliva, which we did not see, have been reckoned among

the most beautiful waterfalls in Europe.

The first two chapters, written mostly while delayed in Croatia, refer

rather to the borderland of Bosnia, and may not be of general interest,

dealing much in costumes and antiquities. The last, which describes the

old Republic of Ragusa, may serve to show that the Southern Sclaves are

capable of the highest culture and civilisation. In the Historical Review

of Bosnia I have attempted to elucidate and emphasise a most important

aspect of Bosnian history—the connection, namely, between that till

lately almost unknown land, and the Protestant Reformation of Europe, and

the debt which even civilised England owes to that now unhappy country.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

HISTORICAL REVIEW OF BOSNIA xxiii

CHAPTER I.

AGRAM AND THE CROATS.

Slovenization in Styria—Regrets of a Prussian—Agram—Her

Sclavonic Features, Hero, Art, and Architecture—Flowers

of the Market-place—Croatian Costume—Prehistoric Ornament

and Influence of Oriental Art—South-Sclavonic Crockery,

Jewelry, and Musical Instruments—Heirlooms from Trajan or

Heraclius?—Venice and Croatia—Croatian Gift of Tongues—Lost

in the Forest—A Bulgarian Colony—On to Carlovatz—The Welsh of

Croatia—Croatian Characteristics—Carlovatz Fair—On the Outposts

of Christendom 1

CHAPTER II.

THE OLD MILITARY FRONTIER, SISCIA, AND THE SAVE.

The Military Frontier, its Origin and Extinction—Effects

of Turkish Conquest on South-Sclavonic Society—Family

Communities—Among the House-fathers—Granitza Homesteads—The

_Stupa_—Liberty, Equality, Fraternity—Contrast between Croats

of Granitza and Slovenes—The Advantages and Defects of Family

Communities—Larger Family Community near Brood—A little

Parliament House—Croatian Brigands—A Serb Lady—Turkish Effendi

and Pilgrim—Siszek—Roman Siscia; her Commercial Importance—Her

Martyr—Remains of ancient Siscia—Destiny of Siszek—Croatian

Dances and Songs—Down the Save—New Amsterdam—South-Sclavonic

Types—Arrive at Brood—Russian Spies!—A Sunset between two

Worlds—Marched off—Bearding an Official—A Scaffold Speech—In

Durance vile—Liberated! 42

CHAPTER III.

THROUGH THE BOSNIAN POSSÁVINA AND USSORA.

Insurrectionary Agitation among Southern Sclaves—Proclamation

of the Pashà of Bosnia—We land in Turkish Brood—Moslem

Children—Interview with the Mudìr—Behaviour of our

Zaptieh—Peasants of Greek Church—How these Christians love

one another—Arrive at Dervent—Interview with Pashà of

Banjaluka—Hajduks’ Graves—Rayah Hovel—Difficulty with our

Host—Doboj; its old Castle and Historical Associations—A

South-Sclavonic Patriot—First Mountain Panorama—The ‘Old

Stones,’ a Prehistoric Monument—Tešanj: its old Castle and

History—‘_Une Petite Guerre_’—Latin Quarter of Tešanj—Soused

by an old Woman—Influence of Oriental Superstitions on Bosnian

Rayahs—Argument with the Kaïmakàm—Excusable Suspicions 86

CHAPTER IV.

THE PILGRIMAGE ON THE FOREST-MOUNTAIN.

Through the Forests of the Black Mountain—The Flower

of Illyria—A Mysterious Fly—Enchanted Ground—The Fairy

Mountain—Great Christian Pilgrimage—The Shrine on the

Mountain-top—Christian Votaries in the Garb of Islâm—The

Night-encampment—How the Turks dance—Anacreontic Songs—An

Epic Bard, Poetic Genius of Bosniacs—Insolence of Turkish

Soldiers and their Ill-treatment of the Rayahs—Types at

the Fair—Aspect and Character of Men—_Chefs-d’œuvre_ of

Flint-knapping—Christian Graveyard and Monastery—Dismiss our

Zaptieh—Night on Forest-mountain of Troghìr—Wrecks by Wind

and Lightning—Scene of Forest Fire—Timber Barricades—Summit

of Vučia Planina—A _Bon-vivant_—Steep Descent—Night in a

Hole—Almost impassable Gorge—Egyptian Rocks—Repulsed from a

Moslem Village—Tombs of the Bogomiles—Arrive at Franciscan

Monastery of Gučiagora—Fears of a Massacre—Relations of

Roman Catholics with the Turks—Austrian Influence in

Bosnia—Aspirations of the Bosnian Monks 126

CHAPTER V.

TRAVNIK AND FOINICA.

A Turkish Cemetery—Arrive at Travnik—Taken for Insurgent

Emissaries—The ex-Capital of Bosnia—New Readings of

the Koràn—Streets of Travnik—Veiling of Women in

Bosnia—Survivals of old Sclavonic Family Life among Bosnian

Mahometans—Their Views on the Picturesque—Their Dignity,

oracular Condescension, and _Laisser-Aller_—Hostile

Demonstrations—Bashi-Bazouks—‘Alarums Excursions!’—Insulted

by armed Turks—Rout of the Infidels—Departure of Mahometan

Volunteers for Seat of War—Ordered to change our Route—A

Turkish Road—Busovac—Romish Chapel and Bosnian Han—The

Police defied—Our Mountain Route to Foinica—Ores and Mineral

Springs—Dignity at a Disadvantage—Turkish Picnic—The Franciscan

Monastery at Foinica—Refused Admittance—An ‘Open Sesamé!’—‘The

Book of Arms of the Old Bosnian Nobility’—Escutcheon of Czar

Dūshan—Shield of Bosnia—Armorial Mythology of Sclaves—The

Descendants of Bosnian Kings and Nobles—The Ancient Lords of

Foinica—The ‘Marcian Family’ and their Royal Grants—A Lift in

the Kadi’s Carriage—Traces of former Gold Mines—Mineral Wealth

of Bosnia—A ‘Black Country’ of the future—Why Bosnian Mines

are unworked—Influence of Ancient Rome and Ragusa on past and

present History of Bosnia, and on the distribution of her

Population—A fashionable Spa—Kisseljak and—Beds! 185

CHAPTER VI.

THE PANIC IN SERAJEVO.

Outbreak of the Insurrection in Bosnia—Roadside Precautions

against Brigands—Panorama of Serajevsko Polje—Roman Bas-relief

of Cupid—Roman Remains in Bosnia—_Banja_ and _Balnea_—‘The

Damascus of the North’: first Sight of Serajevo—Her History and

Municipal Government—Fall of the Janissaries—Dangerous Spirit

of the Mahometan Population of Serajevo—Outbreak of Moslem

Fanaticism here on building of the new Serbian Cathedral—We

enter the City through smouldering Ruins—Hospitable Reception

at English Consulate—Great Fire in Serajevo—Consternation of

the Pashà—Panic among the Christians—Missionaries of Culture:

two English Ladies—Causes of the Insurrection in Bosnia: the

Tax-farmers: Rayahs tortured by Turks—‘Smoking’—The Outbreak

in Lower Bosnia—Paralysis of the Government, and Mahometan

Counter-Revolution—Conjuration of leading Fanatics in the Great

Mosque—We are accused before the Pashà by forty Turks—Consular

Protection—The Fanariote Metropolitan and Bishops of

Bosnia—Their boundless Rapacity, and Oppression of the Rayah—A

Bosnian Bath—Mosques and Cloth-hall of Serajevo—Types of the

Population—Spanish Jews, and Pravoslave Merchants—Bosnian Ideas

of Beauty!—Opposition of Christians to Culture—Extraordinary

Proceedings of the Board of Health—The Zaptiehs—Continuance of

the Panic—Portentous Atmospheric Phenomenon—The Beginning of

the End 234

CHAPTER VII.

FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE HERZEGÓVINA.

Talismans and Phylacteries—Connection between the Geology

of Illyria and her Cabalistic Science—Roman Gems, and

Altar of Jove the Thunderer—Amulets against the Evil

Eye—On our Way again—The Gorge of the Želesnica—Pursued

by Armed Horsemen—Sleep under a Haystack—Chryselephantine

Rock-sculpture—Wasting her Sweetness on the Desert Air!—Mt.

Trescovica—The Forest Scenery of Mt. Igman—Transformations

of the Herb Gentian—Reminiscences of the Karst—No Water!—A

Race against Night—Strange Bedfellows—A Bosnian-Herzegovinian

House—We encounter Bashi-Bazouks—Cross the Watershed

between the Black Sea and Adriatic—First Glimpse of the

Herzegovina—Signs of a Southern Sky—Coinica, the Runnymede

of the Old Bosnian Kingdom—Great Charter of King Stephen

Thomas—Our Host: the Untutored Savage—Absence of Nature’s

Gentlemen—Democratic Genius of Bosniacs and Southern

Sclaves—The Narenta and its treacherous Waters—Iron

Bridge—Entertained by Belgian Engineer—Murder of Young

Christian by two armed Turks—Trepidation of our Host

and Preparations for Flight—Touching Instance of Filial

Affection!—A Village of Unveiled Mahometans—_Rhododactyls_:

Darwinianism refuted at last!—The Tragic Lay of the Golden

Knife—Magnificent Scenery of the Narenta Valley; Amethystine

Cliffs and Emerald Pools—A Land of Wild Figs and Pomegranates 285

CHAPTER VIII.

MOSTAR AND THE VALE OF NARENTA.

Amulets against Blight—A Hymn in the Wilderness—We arrive

at Mostar—Our Consul—Anglo-Turkish Account of Origin of

the Insurrection in the Herzegovina—The real Facts—The

‘_Giumruk_’—The Begs and Agas and their Serfs—The Demands

of the Men of Nevešinje—Massacre of Sick Rayahs by

Native Mahometans begins the War—Plan of Dervish Pashà’s

Campaign—Interview with the Governor-General, Dervish

Pashà—Roman Characteristics of Mostar, and her Roman

Antiquities—Trajan’s Bridge—Ali Pashà, his Death’s-heads and

Tragical End—The Grapes of Mostar—Start with Caravan for

Dalmatian Frontier—A Ride in the Dark—Buna and the Vizier’s

Villa—Bosnian Saddles—A Karst Landscape—Tassorić: Christian

Crosses and interesting Graveyard—Outbreak of Revolt in

Lower Narenta Valley—The Armed Watch against the Begs—A

burnt Village—On Christian Soil once more—Metcović—Voyage

Down the Narenta Piccola—Ruins of a Roman City—The Illyrian

Narbonne—Metamorphosis of Sclavonic God into Christian

Saint—The old _Pagania_—The Narentines and Venetians—Narentine

Characteristics—A Scotch Type—Subterranean Bellowings near Fort

Opus: The Haunts of a Minotaur!—Adverse Winds—Tremendous Scene

at the Mouth of Narenta—_La Fortuna è rotta!_—Our Boat swept

back by the Hurricane—A Celestial Cannonade—Sheltered by a

Family-Community—Dalmatian Fellowship with the English—Stagno—A

Romantic Damsel—Gravosa, the Port of Ragusa 326

CHAPTER IX.

RAGUSA AND EPIDAURUS.

Marvels of the Valle d’Ombla—Port of Gravosa—Rocky Coves and

Gardens of Ragusa—Ragusa Vecchia; Remains of Epidaurus—Monument

of a Roman Ensign—Mithraic Rock-sculpture—Plan of Canale and

the Roman Aqueduct—Antique Gems: the Lapidary Art in Ancient

Illyria—Epidauritan Cult of Cadmus and Æsculapius—Phœnician

Traces on this Coast—Syrian Types among modern Peasants—_Grotta

d’Escolapio_ and _Vasca della Ninfa_—Cavern, and Legend of

St. Hilarion and the Dragon—Mediæval Sculpture in Ragusa

Vecchia—The Founding of Ragusa—The Roman City on the Rock,

and the Sclavonic Colony in the Wood—Orlando saves the City

from the Saracens, and St. Blasius from the Venetians—Ragusa

as a City of Refuge—Visit of Cœur-de-Lion—Government of

the Republic—Sober Genius of Ragusans—Early Laws against

Slavery—Hereditary Diplomatists—Extraordinary Bloom of

Ragusan Commerce—The ‘Argosies’—Commercial and other

relations with England—Literature of Ragusa; she creates

a Sclavonic Drama—Poets and Mathematicians: Gondola and

Ghetaldi—The great Earthquake—End of the Republic—A Walk in

Ragusa—Porta Pille—Stradone—Torre del Orologio—Zecca and

Dogana—Ancient Coinage of Ragusa—Palazzo Rettorale—A Mediæval

Æsculapius—Monuments to Ragusan Peabody and Regulus—_Cappella

delle Reliquie_—Silver Palissy-ware by a Ragusan Master—Cross

of Stephen Uroš—Discovery of St. Luke’s Arm!—The Narrow

Streets of Ragusa: _Case Signorili_, and Hanging Gardens—A

Bird’s-eye View of the City—The Herzegovinian Refugees—A

jewelled _Ceinture_ from Nevešinje—The Fugitives taken!—Turkish

Influence on Ragusan Costume—Contrast between Ragusan Peasants

and ‘_Morlacchi_’—Refinement of the Citizens—Blending of

Italian and Sclave—The Natural Seaport of Bosnia—A Vision of

Gold and Sapphire—On the Margin of the Hellenic World—Shadow

and Night 379

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FULL-PAGE ENGRAVINGS.

HERZEGOVINIAN REFUGEES AT RAGUSA _Frontispiece_

GREAT SEAL OF TVARTKO, KING OF BOSNIA (see p. lxxi, note) _on title-page_

TOMB OF CATHARINE, last lawful Queen of Bosnia _To face page_ xxiii

CROATIAN TYPES ” ” 11

BOSNIAN TYPES AT SARAJEVO ” ” 277

WOODCUTS IN TEXT.

PAGE

Croatian Clothes-shop, Agram 4

Croat Woman in the Agram Market 9

Roman and Croatian Pottery 18

Croatian Pottery 19

Outlines of Croatian Musical Instruments 22

Outline of Tracery 23

Bulgarian Settlement 29

Bulgarian Profile 31

Sluin Woman 35

Croat Man 37

A Granitza Homestead 48

Stupa 50

Homestead of Family Community, near Brood, Slavonia 57

Plan of Common Dwelling 59

Head of Slavonian 85

View on River Save, looking from Slavonian Brood towards the

Bosnian Shore 88

Plan of Turbine Mill 95

Bosnian Girl of the Possávina 96

Diagram of Salt-mill 104

Old Castle of Doboj 105

The ‘Old Stones,’ near Tešanj 112

Castle of Tešanj 114

Turkish Café, Tešanj 117

Latin Maiden of Tešanj 120

Pots from Tešanj 121

Pilgrims at the Shrine, near Comušina 132

Types at the Fair 145

Bosnian Belle 148

Gun-Flint 153

Tree struck by Lightning 158

Rocky Gorge of the Jasenica 169

Mysterious Sepulchres, Podove 171

Ancient Monuments in Želesnica Valley 175

View in Travnik 192

Bosniac Mahometan Woman 195

Old Castle of King Tvartko at Travnik 203

Bosnian Armorial Bearings 218

Bas-relief of Cupid 237

Arrowhead Charms 291

Amulets against the Evil Eye 292

Mount Trescovica, from South-Eastern Spur of Mount Igman 297

Mount Bielastica 298

Plan of Bosnian Han 302

First Glimpse of the Herzegovina 304

View of Coinica 305

Unveiled Mahometan Women at Jablanica 322

Mostar Bridge 348

Christian Monuments, Tassorić 360

Graveyard at Tassorić 361

Women and Child, Stagno 376

Sculpture of Roman Standard-Bearer at Ragusa Vecchia 387

Head of Brenese Peasant 393

Virgin and Child 397

Palazzo Rettorale and Torre del Orologio, Ragusa 429

_Key to the Pronunciation of the Serbo-Croatian Orthography, adopted for

Illyrian Names in this Book._

Serbo-Croatian Letters Approximate Sound.

ž = French _j_.

lj = Italian _gl_.

nj = Italian _gn_.

ć = English _ch_.

c = _tz_.

č = German _tsch_.

dž = _dsch_.

š = English _sh_.

j = English _y_.

[Illustration: TOMB OF CATHARINE, LAST LAWFUL QUEEN OF BOSNIA.]

HISTORICAL REVIEW OF BOSNIA.

‘Tantum religio potuit suadere malorum.’

About the middle of the fifth century, when Britain was passing

definitely into the hands of the English, and when on the Continent the

hordes of Attila were dealing the most tremendous blow that had yet

fallen on the Roman Empire, Sclavonic tribes overran Mœsia, Thrace,

Macedonia, and Illyricum, and pushed on to the Adriatic shores. From

this period the final settlement of the Sclaves in the area of what

is now known as Turkey-in-Europe may be safely dated.[1] Their first

ravages over, the Sclaves, who from their communal family-organisation

were little capable of formidable combination, appear to have easily

accepted Roman suzerainty. The new settlers were soon among the most

trusted troops of the Eastern Emperor, and at the beginning of the sixth

century the Sclavonic colony of Dardania gives Eastern Rome one of its

most renowned Emperors and its greatest general. The Sclave Upravda, the

son of Istok, is better known as the Emperor Justinian, and Veličaŕ as

Belisarius.

Thus were first cemented those peculiar relations between the Sclaves

and Byzantium which are still of supreme importance in considering ‘the

Eastern Question.’ The Byzantine government saw itself so capable of

dealing with the Sclaves, that when the Avar nomads, at the beginning of

the seventh century, devastated Illyricum, massacring alike Sclavonic

settler and Roman provincial, and sacking even the coast cities of

Dalmatia, Heraclius, as a masterstroke of policy, called in two new

Sclavonic tribes from beyond the Danube as a counterpoise to the Avars;

and the corner of the Balkan peninsula between the Save, the Morava, and

the Adriatic, was divided among the Sclavonic tribes, the Serbs, and the

Croats, who still throughout this area form the bulk of the population.

The account given of this settlement by Constantine Porphyrogenitus[2] is

so mixed up with mythical elements that we can only accept the general

outlines. As might be expected from the analogy of our own history of the

conquest of Britain, the Sclavonic sagas, which seem to form the basis of

the Byzantine version, bring into the field certain leaders with eponymic

names;[3] but the old family life of the Sclaves asserts itself even in

these legends, and we read that the Croats were led to the conquest of

the Avars by a family of brothers and sisters.

The Croatian settlement seems to have been the earlier. The Croats came

from the countries beyond the Carpathians, and colonized the countries

now known as Austrian and Turkish Croatia, and the northern part of

Dalmatia. The Save formed a rough boundary to the Croatian nationality on

the north, the Verbas on the east, and to the south the Cetina.

The Serbs, then inhabiting a part of what is now Galicia, hastened to

imitate the example of the Croats, and took for their share the lands to

the east and south of that occupied by their brother race. They occupied

the whole, or nearly the whole, of the area now occupied by Free Serbia,

Bosnia, Herzegovina, Montenegro, Old Serbia, and the northern half of

Albania, and stretched themselves along the Adriatic coasts from the

neighbourhood of Spalato, where the river Cetina runs into the sea, to

Durazzo, then still Dyrrhachium. Thus, with the exception of the barren

corner called the Kraina, or Turkish Croatia, the whole of what is now

known as Bosnia, with which we have particularly to deal, belongs to the

Serbian branch of the Sclaves.

For long the history of what later became the Bosnian kingdom is

indistinguishable from that of the rest of the Serbs. The whole Illyrian

triangle was divided into a great number of small independent districts,

somewhat answering to the Teutonic ‘_Gaus_,’ called Župy. Župa means

‘bond’[4] or confederation, and each Župa was simply a confederation

of village communities, whose union was represented by a magistrate

or governor, called a Župan. The Župans in turn seem to have chosen

a Grand-Župan, who may be looked on as the President of the Serbian

Federation. We know little about the early Županships of the Bosnian

area, but a few of the petty commonwealths of the Serbian coastland, and

what later on became the Herzegovina, are mentioned by the Byzantine

Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus, who wrote about 950, and the names

and situation of some in the Bosnian interior may be gathered from

ecclesiastical diplomas. Here and there we read of a ‘Ban’ (translated,

in Diocleas, by the Latin word ‘_Dux_’), who was rather higher than an

ordinary Župan.

These Serbian ‘Archons,’ as the Byzantine historians speak of them,

acknowledged the suzerainty of the Eastern Empire, and even, in some

cases (though doubtless to a less extent than the Croats), accepted

Byzantine dignities. Thus a Ban of Zachlumia accepted the titles of

Proconsul and Patrician. Later on, when Czar Simeon erected the new

Bulgarian Empire, Serbia was forced for a while to bow to the dominion

of the conqueror of Leo Phocas. In the tenth century the Serbs shake off

the Bulgarian yoke, and we now begin to hear of four Grand-Župans, whose

jurisdictions answer to Serbia proper, Rascia, Dioclea, and Bosnia. The

power of the lesser Župans was during this period being diminished for

the benefit of these greater potentates, who in Bosnia are generally

known as Bans. ‘The Bans,’ says the contemporary Serbian historian,[5]

‘ruled each of them in his own province, and subjugated the Župans,

receiving from them the taxes which beforetime had been paid to the

King,’ _i.e._ the sole Grand-Župan.

During the ninth and tenth centuries, while Bosnian-Serbian history is

still so obscure, that of the Croats had achieved some prominence. The

settlement of the Croats had, as we have seen, somewhat preceded the

Serbian. They bordered on the coast-cities of Dalmatia, where Roman

nationality and something of Roman civilization still lingered. Their

relations with Byzantium were more defined, and they had also for a

moment entered into the system of the renovated Empire of the West. Thus

the Croats were earlier imbued with Christianity than the Serbs, and

external influences were earlier at work to give their too acephalous

government greater unity than their inland neighbours, still under the

full sway of Sclavonic communism, could attain to. In the year 914 a

Croatian Grand-Župan, Tomislav, who, in virtue of his relations to the

Byzantine government and the Roman population of the Dalmatian cities,

had assumed the title of ‘Consul,’ begins to be known to foreign princes

as ‘King of the Croats.’ The successor of Tomislav is said to have

conquered the neighbouring Serbian Banat, which from the principal river

within its confines begins about this time to be known as Bosona, or

Bosnia. It even became a constitutional principle in Croatia that, when

the king died childless, a new king should be elected by the seven Bans

of the crown-lands, one of whom was the Ban of Bosnia.[6]

But this Croatian suzerainty was, as yet, premature. At the beginning

of the eleventh century the Greek Emperor Basil having completed the

slaughter of the Bulgarians succeeded in subjugating the Croats, and

the introduction of Byzantine Governors and Protospathars into Dalmatia

threw back Bosnia on to the support of her Serbian neighbours.[7] The

Bosnian Ban Niklas not only accepted the Serbian Grand-Župan Dobroslav

as his overlord, but aided him most efficaciously in annihilating two

Byzantine armies[8] in those gorges of the Black Mountain which, from

time immemorial, have been so fatal to the ambition of Stamboul.

Thus down to nearly the middle of the twelfth century, Bosnia continued

to own allegiance to her Serbian suzerains, and the claims of the

Croats to Bosnia continued to be little more than nominal till their

own country fell into hands more capable of enforcing them. But at the

beginning of the twelfth century the Magyars overthrew the kingdom of

the Croats, and in 1141 Geiza II. of Hungary completed the conquest of

Bosnia, or, as it is generally known in the Hungarian annals, of Rama,

from the little river of that name, flowing into the Narenta.[9] Still,

the Hungarian dominion does not seem as yet to have been much more than

a vague suzerainty. Bosnia, indeed, throughout the whole of this period,

seems to have stood aloof from all its neighbours. It might own a nominal

allegiance, now to Serbia, now to Croatia, now to Hungary, but it enjoyed

a practical independence. Its general isolation from the main current of

Serbian history may be gathered from the chronicler of Dioclea; and when

Manuel Comnenus reduced Hungary to a temporary subjection, his historian

Cinnamus was struck with the same phenomenon. ‘The Drina,’ says he,

‘divides Bosthna from the rest of Serbia. For Bosthna is not subject

to the Grand-Župan of Serbia, but the people were at that time under

their own magistrates, and used their own customs.’ The recent Russian

historian of the Serbs and Bulgarians[10] traces many of the later

misfortunes of Bosnia to this fatal estrangement from the other Sclavonic

lands.

The Hungarian alliance now makes this alienation irrevocable. Cinnamus

shows the close relations existing between Bosnia and Hungary at the

date of Manuel’s invasion when he goes on to say that ‘Boritzes,[11]

Exarch of Bosthna,’ aided the King of Hungary against the Greeks; and,

indeed, we know from other sources that the Bosnian Ban was himself an

illegitimate son of the Magyar king, Coloman. Manuel reduced Bosnia, with

Croatia and other parts of Hungary, for a while; but the Ban was not long

in recovering the province. The Hungarian connection was only cemented

the more firmly, and on Borić’s death, in 1168, his son, the new Ban

Culin, accepted his investiture from Bela III., and subscribed himself

henceforth _Fiduciarius Regni Hungariæ_.

The rule of Ban Culin is justly regarded as the brightest period in

the annals of Christian Bosnia. His first care on his accession was to

surround himself with trustworthy Župans and Voivodes, and during the

thirty-six years of his reign Bosnia enjoyed a profound peace. Under his

auspices and protection the merchants of Ragusa began to plant their

factories in Bosnia, and open out anew the rich mines which had been

left unworked since the days of the Romans. The very year after Culin’s

accession, two Ragusan brothers built a factory and opened mines on the

site of what has since become the capital of Bosnia.[12] Other mines were

shortly opened in the neighbourhood, and a fortress, called after the

Sclavonic name of their mother city, Dubrovnik, was built by the same

enterprising merchants to protect their industries. The same wise policy

encouraged another immigration, this time, of Saxon miners, who, like

the Ragusans, did much to lay bare the great mineral wealth of this and

the other Serbian lands, and who have left their traces in several old

German mining expressions still current among the miners and mountaineers

of Bosnia. These Saxons, or _Sasi_, settled chiefly in the towns, where

their influence was valuable in instilling something of the civic unity

of the free Teutonic burghs into the loosely compacted aggregation of

hovels that clustered round the fortified ‘grad’ of the Bosnian lord.[13]

Culin is said to have been the first Bosnian prince who struck coins, and

the general prosperity was such that to this day ‘the times of good Ban

Culin’ are invoked by the Bosniac when he wishes to express the golden

age.

But the patronage which Culin afforded to a religious sect that now

becomes prominent in Bosnia makes his rule of still greater importance,

and leads us to the consideration of a subject which has its bearings

even on English history.

The doctrine of the Two Principles of Good and Evil, which had its origin

perhaps in the sublime mythology of Persia and the eternal conflict of

Light and Darkness, held its own amongst the various Gnostic sects of

Christianity, scattered throughout the Eastern world, while the West was

content to slumber in comparative orthodoxy. In Armenia, where these

doctrines had certain affinities with the earlier religion, they seem

to have taken especially firm root; and here, as in the other border

states of the Byzantine Empire, heterodoxy went hand in hand with

patriotism. Considering the hostile relations in which both nations stood

to Byzantium, it is not at all surprising that friendly communications

should have subsisted between the Armenians and the Bulgarian Sclaves

whose country lay to the east of the Serbians. Further, it was extremely

natural that Armenians, for national as well as sectarian reasons,

should view with jealousy the progress of orthodox missionaries among

the Bulgarians, and should attempt to counteract it by organising a

propaganda of their own Manichæism.

Such was actually set on foot. How early this proselytism was first

commenced is doubtful, but it is certain that the Danubian Sclaves

were converted from heathenism _pari passu_ by Manichæan and orthodox

missionaries. The Byzantine Emperors, by their transplantation system,

gave the Armenians every facility for their work. In the middle of the

eighth century Constantine Copronymus, who had perhaps some sympathies

with the heretics, transplanted a body of Paulicians from Armenia

into Thrace, who we learn, on the authority of Cedrenus, spread the

Paulician heresy through those parts, then largely inhabited by the

Bulgarian Sclaves. At the end of the ninth century, when the persecution

of Byzantium had provoked the Paulicians of Armenia to assert their

independence, when ‘the Roman Emperor fled before the heretics whom his

mother had condemned to the flames,’ and Tephricé became the capital of

a free-state devoted to Gnostic Christianity, the missionary efforts of

the Armenians among the Sclaves was prosecuted with still greater vigour.

Petrus Siculus, who in 870 resided nine months at Tephricé as legate

of the Byzantine Government, to arrange for an exchange of prisoners,

discovered that a Manichæan mission was about to start from Tephricé to

the Bulgarians, and addressed his ‘Historia Manichæorum’ to the Bulgarian

Patriarch, with the express purpose of counteracting these baneful

efforts.

The fall of the Paulician free-state of Tephricé synchronizes with the

rise of the first Bulgarian Empire, and we can well imagine that the

refugees of vanquished Armenia found shelter among their Manichæan

co-religionists in the dominions of Czar Simeon, the hero of the

Achelous. From this period onwards the Paulician heresy may be said

to change its nationality, and to become Sclavonic. According to the

Bulgarian national traditions,[14] a certain priest named Bogomil spread

the Manichæan doctrines among the subjects of the Bulgarian Czar

who succeeded Simeon, Peter Simeonović. A more enlightened criticism

will perhaps see in the name ‘Bogomil’ only another instance of that

‘eponymic’ tendency of barbarous minds which refers to individuals events

and institutions which have really a more national character. In the same

Bulgarian document which professes to give the origin of their name,

they are connected with the Massalian heresy; by Harmenopulos and other

Byzantine writers they are made almost or quite identical with these same

Massalians, and with the Euchites, their Greek equivalent, and there

seems to be no reasonable doubt that the name Bogomile is really nothing

but a Sclavonic translation of the Greek and Syriac names for the sect.

The name of Massalians is derived from a Syriac word, signifying ‘those

who pray,’ and the Greek Euchites have of course the same derivation.

The Byzantine writer Epiphanius[15] has the credit of giving the right

etymology of the word Bogomile, in that he derives it from the Bulgarian

words _Bog z’milui_, signifying ‘God have mercy,’ an etymology which fits

in with that peculiar devotion to prayer which was characteristic of the

Bogomilian religion, which harmonizes with that of the allied sectaries,

the Massalians and Euchites, and which would be still intelligible to all

Sclavonic peoples, from the White Sea to the Ægean.

We need not, however, go so far as to deny that the Bogomilian heresy

took its characteristic shape under the direction of a Bulgarian

heresiarch. The historic existence of the first Bogomilian pope seems

sufficiently attested,[16] but the Bulgarian traditions name him

indifferently Jeremias and Bogomil, and it is quite possible that the

latter name was added at a later time by a confusion with the Sclavonic

homonym for Massalians and Euchites.

Through all the varying phases of Bulgarian history the Bogomiles, as

these Sclavonic Manichæans are now known, hold their own. It seems

certain that the Bulgarian Czars, in their struggle with Byzantium, did

not wish to alienate a powerful party at home, and we hear occasionally

ominous whispers that Bulgarian Emperors themselves leaned towards the

doctrine of the Two Principles.[17] The Bulgarian heresy was perpetually

fed from its Oriental sources by new Byzantine transplantations, and in

the tenth century the Emperor John Zimisces did much for the propagation

of Gnosticism among the Sclaves by transporting a more powerful colony

of Armenians than any that had gone before ‘from the Chalybian hills

to the valleys of Mount Hæmus.’ It is now that the Bogomilian heresy

begins to spread beyond the limits of Bulgaria, among the kindred Serbian

tribes to the west. Bulgaria, earlier civilized from her closer contact

with Byzantium, was exercising during these centuries a predominating

influence over the less cultured Serbs. From the Bulgarian missionaries

Serbia first received the seeds of her orthodox Christianity, and there

can be no doubt that proselytism was at work on the Manichæan side as

well. Add to this that a large part of Serbia fell at different times

under the Bulgarian dominion.

By the end of the tenth century the Bogomiles have taken firm root among

the Serbs. In the legend of the Serbian prince, St. Vladimir,[18] one of

his highest merits is that he was the zealous enemy of the Bogomiles. St.

Vladimir certainly included in his dominions parts of what is now the

Herzegovina, and, according to some accounts, Bosnia as well.

The events which now follow must have largely increased the number of

Manichæans in these and the other Serbian lands. Basil, ‘the slayer

of the Bulgarians,’ at the beginning of the eleventh century, finally

overthrew the first Bulgarian Empire. Towards the end of the same

century the Bulgarian heretics, now under Byzantine rule, were hunted

down by the orthodox Emperor. The Princess Anna Comnena[19] has left us

an account of the persecution of the Bogomiles by her father Alexius.

The Byzantine princess unblushingly relates the trap which the Emperor

condescended to set for the chief apostle of the sect, at that time a

certain Basil; how he artfully led on the heresiarch by holding out

hopes of conversion; how he invited him to the imperial table, and in

his closet wormed out of him the secrets of his sect; and then, suddenly

throwing aside the arras on the wall, revealed the scribe who had taken

down the confession of his heresy, and beckoned to his apparitors to

throw his victim into irons. The account which Anna Comnena gives of

this sect is valuable in spite of its scurrility. The princess calls

the Bogomiles ‘a mixture of Manichees and Massalians.’ She laughs at

their uncombed hair, their low origin,[20] and their long faces, ‘which

they hide to the nose, and walk bowed, attired like monks, muttering

something between their lips.’ Basil himself was ‘a lanky man, with a

sparse beard, tall and thin.’ From the account given of his confession

we have intimations of a belief in the phantastic doctrine, and what

was more shocking still, ‘He called the sacred churches—woe is me!—the

sacred churches, fanes of demons!’ When he saw himself betrayed by the

Emperor, he declared that he would be rescued from death by ‘angels and

demons.’ Anna Comnena would like to say more of this cursed heresy, ‘but

modesty keeps me from doing so, as beautiful Sappho says somewhere; for

though I am an historian, I am also a woman, and the most honourable of

the purple, and the first offshoot of Alexius.’ The ‘most honourable of

the purple,’ however, feels no hesitation in describing the holocaust

which her father made of all the Bogomiles he could catch, and more

particularly the roasting of Basil. This delicately sensitive princess

gloats over the preparations in the hippodrome, the crackling of the

fire, the breaking out of poor human nature as the victim comes nearer

to the scorching, the turning away of his eyes, and finally the quivering

of his limbs. One asks, in amazement, whether any religion that has

ever existed in the world has produced such monsters of humanity as

Christianity calling itself orthodox!

It may readily be believed that these persecutions drove the Bogomiles

to take refuge more and more in the Serbian regions, out of the way of

the orthodox savagery of Byzantium. There were moreover reasons which

diverted the current of heresy from that part of Serbia which became

afterwards the nucleus of the Empire of the Némanjas. The Serbian princes

who ruled over the territory now occupied by old Serbia and Montenegro

were faithful sons of the orthodox church, and directed their utmost

efforts to keep the shrine of St. Vladimir and the national patriarchate

of Dioclea free from the contamination of Manichæism. Thus a variety of

causes combined to direct the course of the new movement to the Serbian

races of Western Illyricum; and in the twelfth century—the century

immediately preceding the outbreak of Gnostic Puritanism in Western

Europe—Bosnia had become the head-quarters of what we may now call the

great Sclavonic Heresy.

Thanks to the publication of many South-Sclavonic archives, we are now in

a position to arrive at the tenets of the Bogomiles, from native as well

as from Byzantine sources; and, as I hope to show, both the Greek and

Sclavonic accounts of the sect which now plays such an important part in

Bosnian history harmonize to a very great extent. The best native account

that we possess of the Bogomilian heretics is to be found in the works

of a Bulgarian writer, one Presbyter Cosmas, who lived at the end of the

tenth century, just at the period when the heresy was striking root among

the Serbs and Bosniacs, and who wrote (in his native tongue) two of his

most important works against the Bogomiles—whom he considers ‘worse and

more horrible than demons!’[21]

One of the fundamental doctrines of the Bogomiles was, as has been

already implied, the belief in two Principles of Good and Evil. ‘I hear,’

says the worthy Presbyter Cosmas, ‘many of our orthodox congregation ask,

“Wherefore does God permit the Devil to exercise sway over man?” Verily

this is the first question which prepares the weak in belief for the

reception of the Manichæan heresy.’ The Bogomiles satisfied their reason

by supposing two conflicting self-existent principles of Good and Evil.

Matter and the visible world belong to the Spirit of Evil. ‘Everything,’

says Cosmas, ‘exists, according to the Bogomiles, of the will of the

Devil. The sky, the sun, the earth, men, churches, crosses, and all that

is God’s, they give over to the Devil.’ The evil in the world is thus

accounted for by supposing the Creation to be the work of the Evil One,

and it consequently followed that the Bogomiles looked on the book of

Genesis and the other Mosaic writings as inspired by this evil God, or,

as they knew him, Satanael. But beyond this visible world, of which they

could see only the dark and melancholy side, there existed, according to

the Bogomiles, another, invisible, heavenly and perfect, the creation of

the Spirit of Goodness and Light—Himself a perfect triune Being, from

whom proceeded nothing incomplete or temporary.

Cosmas distinguishes, however, two branches of the Bogomilian heretics.

According to the earlier sect, dualism in its most uncompromising form

prevailed.[22] According to a later offshoot of the Bogomiles, the Spirit

of Good had two sons, the elder of whom, Satanael, rebelled and created

matter, and that to rescue the world thus created from the dominion of

the Prince of Evil, God the Father sent down his younger son Christ to

enable men to combat the Ruler of this world.[23] Both sects, however,

were agreed in accepting the Phantastic theory of the Incarnation. The

antagonism between spirit and matter was too great to admit of the union

of the two. The body of Christ was a phantom, left in the clouds at his

ascension; and the Virgin was an angel and not the mother of God.

Cosmas denies generally their belief in any of the books of the Old

Testament or the Gospels; but this does not agree with the circumstantial

account of Euthymius Zygabenus, who from having been commissioned by the

Emperor to extract the tenets of his sect from the Bogomilian heresiarch

Basil, is certainly one of the best authorities. Further, it is disproved

by the whole conduct of the Bogomiles, which, as Cosmas himself shows,

was based on a too literal interpretation of the Gospels. According

to Euthymius,[24] the Bogomiles accepted seven holy books, which he

enumerates as follows:—1, the Psalms; 2, the Sixteen Prophets; 3, 4, 5,

and 6, the Gospels; 7, the Acts of the Apostles, the Epistles, and the

Apocalypse. So far, indeed, as the New Testament was concerned, they

clung to the version of the orthodox Sclavic apostle, in which they

altered not a word.[25]

Touching baptism again, accounts are contradictory. Harmenopulos says

that the Bogomiles practised the rite, but did not attribute to it any

perfecting[26] virtue. On the other hand, the most recent investigations

into the observances of the Bogomiles of Bosnia show that strictly

speaking the rite did not exist among them at all, though they observed

something analogous to it. Only adults could be admitted into the

communion of the faithful; and, after they had first qualified themselves

for admission by prayer and fasting, the mystery of initiation was

performed, not by water—for did not water itself appertain to the evil

realm of matter?—but by the laying on of St. John’s Gospel. Thus Cosmas

is technically right in saying that the Bogomiles rejected baptism

altogether, though it is probable that he was merely calumniating them

when he added as a reason, that ‘they are afraid of the children to be

baptized; and if by chance they see small children, they turn away from

them as from carrion, and spit, and call them children of mammon, as

being creations of the Devil;’ still under the sway, that is, of the Evil

Creator Spirit. As regards Bosnia, at any rate, this is a foul slander.

So far were the Bosnian Bogomiles from spurning little children, that the

instruction of the young was considered a work worthy of the most saintly

of the sect.

They were staunch opponents of the prevailing Mariolatry. ‘They pay no

honour to the Mother of God.’[27] ‘As to the cross,’ says the Presbyter,

they say: ‘Wherefore should we bow to that which dishonoured God?’ and

they ask further, ‘if any man slew the son of a king with a bit of wood,

how could this bit of wood be dear to the king?’[28] They considered it

idolatry to bow down before the icons of saints. ‘They further revile the

ceremonies of the church and all church dignities, and they call orthodox

priests blind Pharisees, and bay at them as dogs at horses.’[29] ‘As to

the Lord’s Supper,’ continues the Bulgarian champion of orthodoxy, ‘they

assert that it is not kept according to God’s commandment, and that it is

not the body of God, but ordinary bread.’[30]

Their belief in the evilness of matter was productive, as such a belief

always has been, of much asceticism; which, if the concurrent testimony

of their enemies is to be believed, they carried at times to deplorable

excesses. ‘They show themselves,’ says Cosmas, ‘strong ascetics, for

they call the Devil the Creator of all things, and declare that it is

his Commandment that men should take wives, eat flesh, and drink wine.

Everything as it exists with us (the orthodox) is utterly rejected. They

give themselves up to a celestial life, insomuch that they call married

men and those living in the way of the world “Mammon’s Children.”’

The descriptions of Anna Comnena and the monk Cosmas bring before us

the familiar Puritan type, as it has reproduced itself in all ages.

They bowed their heads and groaned and pulled long faces, in the true

Roundhead style. ‘You will see heretics,’ quoth Cosmas, ‘quiet and

peaceful as lambs without, silent, and wan with hypocritical fasting, who

do not speak much nor laugh loud, who let their beard grow, and leave

their person incompt.’

These descriptions of their enemies must, however, be taken with this

reserve: they apply, as a rule, only to a small minority of the sect.

The Bogomiles, like most ascetic sects, were divided into two castes:

the simple believers, the _Credentes_ of the West, who formed the large

majority; and ‘the perfect,’ or those who by a long course of asceticism

had successfully mortified the flesh. In the thirteenth century, at

the most blooming period of their history, among the millions of these

sectaries were reckoned less than 4,000 of ‘the perfect.’[31] These

‘perfect’ called themselves in Bosnia _Krstjani_, _dobri Bošniani_,

_Svršiteli_, ‘Christians,’ that is, ‘good Bosnians,’ or ‘the elect,’

terms which reappear in a Romance guise in Italy and the Languedoc.

The ‘perfect’ were clad like monks in long black gowns; they condemned

themselves to perpetual celibacy; they abjured wine, nor tasted aught

but vegetables, fish, and oil; they forsook the ‘pomps and vanities of

this wicked world,’ and gave themselves up to devotion and good works.

The women (for this saintly minority included both sexes) taught children

or tended the sick, while the men acted as the spiritual guides of their

weaker brethren or preached the Gospel among unbelievers.

But it stood to reason that the great bulk of the Bogomilian flock could

never attain to this higher standard. In the abstract, no doubt, the

simple ‘believer’ accepted the doctrine which his spiritual guides were

careful to instil into him, that his soul was an angel fallen from above

and fettered in the prison-house of his body, and that only by perpetual

mortification of the flesh could he hope to set the celestial captive

free at last. But the laws of nature and society are perpetually holding

back religious extravagance from its logical consequences, and the simple

‘believer’ was content to govern himself by the more ordinary standard

of mankind. As in Provence and Italy, so in Bosnia, he dispensed himself

from the prohibition against drinking wine; and though the ‘perfect’

refused to bear arms and preached against war as devilish, the mass of

the heretics, Sclavonic as well as Romance, showed that on occasion

they could measure swords with the most orthodox. Though marriage was

contrary to their tenets, the Bogomiles took wives, the man, however, in

Bosnia only taking the woman on the condition that she was good and true

to him, reserving the right of dismissing her if he thought her conduct

unsatisfactory; an arrangement productive of laxity, and giving occasion

to the orthodox adversary of which he was not slow to take advantage.[32]

Yet, though in his manner of life falling short of the extreme asceticism

of ‘the perfect,’ the ordinary Bogomile, on the showing of his enemies

themselves, distinguished himself by his superior industry and thrift,

and put to shame the saintly idleness of more orthodox professors

by refusing to neglect his work on feast-days. Among the Bogomiles,

beggars were looked on with contempt.[33] The ‘perfect’ themselves

abhorred what was slothful in a monastic life, and the ‘heresiarch’

Basil set a good example by earning his living as a doctor. The simple

believer devoted part of the worldly goods thus acquired to the relief

of sick and indigent brothers, and also to the support of Gospellers

among unbelievers, but neither his industry nor his good works could

satisfy his conscience. The higher life of the ‘perfect’ was a perpetual

reproach to him. His soul seemed clotted with the contagion of a too

sensual existence, nor did his theology allow him a purgatory for the

imbodied and imbruted spirit. Standing on the threshold of another world,

and forced to choose between heaven and hell, the simple ‘believer’

considered it essential to his salvation that he should be admitted into

the ranks of the ‘perfect’ by a death-bed ceremony of initiation, which

reappears as _la Convenenza_ among the more Western Patarenes of Italy

and Provence.

The Bogomiles, in spite of their hatred of orthodox priests and temples,

possessed ministers and even conventicles of their own. In the earliest

accounts that have reached us we find at the head of the sect an elder

or teacher surrounded by twelve disciples, answering to Christ and the

Apostles. The half legendary accounts of the ‘pope’ Bogomil surround

him with such disciples; and Basil ‘the heresiarch’ has his twelve.

But as the Bogomiles spread beyond the limits of Bulgaria, each new

province, if we may so term it, added to the dominion of the faithful,

required a new elder or bishop. At the head of the Bogomilian flock in

Bosnia stood a _Djed_ or elder, answering to the _Episcopus_ or _Senior_

of the Albigensians, and under him came the Apostles, the _Strojniks_

(Western _Magistri_), of which there were two grades, the _Gosti_ and

the _Starci_, who again reappear as the _Filii_ and _Diaconi_ of Italy.

But there was no hierarchy, and nothing at all answering to a papacy;

‘the ecclesiastical officers were simply the representatives of the

congregation, and were chosen by their votes.’[34] Every one who ranked

among the ‘perfect,’ whether a man or woman, had the right of preaching.

Although in some parts the Bogomiles seem to have had no recognized

place of worship, and performed their devotions in their own huts, or

on some lonely heath beneath the open canopy of heaven, we have yet

sufficient evidence, both Byzantine and Sclavonic, that they often

possessed meeting-houses of their own. Their churches, according to

Epiphanius, were like boats turned keel uppermost, but some were of a

more ecclesiastical form. It appears that in Bosnia, as in the Languedoc,

their prayer-houses were plain sheds without tower, or bells, which they

called the trumpets of demons,—devoid of ornament or icons, containing

neither chancel nor altar, but a simple table covered with a clean white

linen cloth, on which was laid a copy of the Gospels.[35] Here they

assembled by torchlight and sang hymns of their own, called by the Greek

writer ‘Euphemies.’ Their service chiefly consisted of prayer, which

according to their creed was the only means of resisting the demon within

them, or of attaining salvation. The Lord’s Prayer was the only form used

by them, and this they repeated in their own house with closed doors,

five times every day and five times every night.[36]

Such are some of the main features of the Bogomilian heresy, as they have

come down to us, to a great extent, from the writings of their bitterest

opponents. Nor will anyone marvel that these doctrines should have spread

as they did among those Sclavonic races, who acted as the missionaries

of the first Reformation in Western Europe. It can hardly be considered

fanciful if we detect certain remarkable analogies between the belief and

observances of the Bogomiles and the primitive institutions, and even the

heathen religion, of the Sclaves. It has already been mentioned that the

Manichæan conversion began among the Bulgarians when they were still to

a great extent pagan. The same is true with regard to the spread of the

Bogomilian heresy among the Serbs, with whom heathendom held its own in

parts till the thirteenth century.[37] A remarkable uniformity presents

itself in the languages, beliefs, and institutions of all Sclavonic

nations; and if we may assert, from the analogy of the Baltic Sclaves,

that the Bulgarians and Serbs also divided their worship between their

Black God or Spirit of Evil, and their White God or Spirit of Good, it

follows that the Manichæan missionaries found the dualistic theology,

which lies at the bottom of so much of their doctrine, already existing

among the people they wished to convert;[38] while the propagandists

of orthodoxy must have discovered to their vexation that the Sclavonic

mind had been trained by superstition, as well as by what mother-wit it

possessed, to rebel against their stupendous dogma, that an All-powerful

Spirit of Good could create and tolerate the Spirit of Evil. Our

Presbyter Cosmas notices that this difficulty presented itself, even to

the ‘orthodox’ Bulgarians, and so lost is he in indignation at these

profane inquiries as to the devil’s paternity, that he forgets to answer

them.

An equally marked parallel is presented between the customs and church

government, if the expression is allowable, of the Bogomiles, and the

primitive institutions of the Sclaves. Their Presbyters answer to the

Sclavonic _Starescina_, the elders of the primitive family-community.

The Communistic doctrines which these heretics discovered in the New

Testament fitted in well with the equality and fraternity of the

Sclavonic home-life. They were essentially levellers, and their evangelic

religion was mixed up, as among the Puritans of Western Europe, with

political insurgency. In Bulgaria we seem to trace, in the opposition

of the Bogomiles to the powers that be, an alliance between them and

the champions of the Sclavonic democracy against the usurpations of the

Ugrian dynasty and nobles. ‘They rail,’ says Cosmas, ‘at the magistrates

and boljars (or nobles), and hold it a crime to do service for the

Czar. They say, moreover, to every servant that he should not serve his

master.’ The Bogomiles, it must be remembered, become a political power

in Bosnia just at the time when the ‘elders’ and Župans, who represented

the free institutions which the Sclavonic settlers brought with them, are

bowing before the Bans and a new, semi-feudal, nobility.

By the beginning of the twelfth century the Bogomilian heresy had struck

such firm root in Bosnia as to rouse the faithful sons of the Church in

Hungary and Dalmatia to armed opposition, insomuch that in 1138 Bela II.

was induced to make an incursion against the ‘Patarenes,’ in the country

between the Cetina and Narenta.[39] It was not, however, till the end of

this century that the progress of heresy in other parts turned the Pope’s

serious attention to the fountain-head of the ‘Bulgarian heresy,’ then

undoubtedly his Illyrian province. Nominally, Bosnia had long belonged

to the Church of Rome, which claimed Western Illyricum as an inheritance

from the Western Empire. Practically, what orthodox Christianity Bosnia

and the other Serbian lands possessed was of a strongly national

character, and derived, not from Roman sources, but from the missionary

efforts of the Sclavonic apostles, Cyril and Methodius.[40] But the

Church of Bosnia, though using the native liturgy and eschewing the

Latin language, acknowledged some allegiance to Rome, and the bishops of

Bosnia recognized the Archbishop of Salona[41] as their metropolitan.

In the year 1180 Culin himself is still considered a dutiful son of the

Church. But a few years later Culin ‘has degenerated from himself’ and

fallen into heresy, and together with his wife[42] and his sister, the

widow of the Count of Chelm, had given ear to the Patarenes, as Roman

ecclesiastics begin to call the Bogomiles who have now spread their

heresy into Italy and the West. The Pope, exerting pressure on Culin by

means of the King of Hungary, had the satisfaction of seeing him recant

in person at Rome.[43] But a few years later, in 1199, the Prince of

orthodox Zenta, which we may almost translate Montenegro, informs the

Pope by letter that Culin has relapsed into his errors, and that ten

thousand of his subjects are already infected with the heresy.[44] A

little later, we hear that Daniel, the bishop of Bosnia himself, has

joined the Patarenes, who shortly after destroyed the orthodox-Roman

Cathedral and Episcopal palace at Crescevo. From this time begins an

ominous interregnum in the Roman Episcopate of Bosnia.

It was in vain that the Pope appealed to the King of Hungary to punish

his heretic vassal. Culin was now too strong to fear even the Hungarian

arms; and at the very period when the hordes of De Montfort were

devastating Provence, the Banat of Bosnia offered an asylum to persecuted

adherents of the Bulgarian heresy throughout Europe. This is hardly

the place to show how essentially the first Protestants of Western

Europe, the Bulgares as they are called by orthodox writers of the age,

were spiritual children of the Sclavonic Bogomiles. The history of the

Patarenes and Albigenses of Italy and Provence, of the ‘Ketzers’[45] of

the Lower Rhine, who made their way even to our shores, lies of course

beyond the scope of this essay. Word for word, nearly all that has been,

with some pains, collected here, from Byzantine, Bulgarian, and Bosnian

sources, regarding the tenets of the more Eastern heretics, might be

paralleled by citations from Latin chronicles,[46] touching those who

broke the harmony of Western Christendom. Enough if, while describing

the belief and observances of the Bogomiles in Bosnia and Bulgaria,

we have alluded, here and there, to such striking similarities in the

details of church ministration and observances as show that the more

Western sectaries clung to their original Bulgarian model in its minutest

particulars. The doctrinal differences themselves which afflicted the

more Western offshoots of the heresy had, as we have seen, their roots

in a Bulgarian, perhaps an Armenian, soil.[47] Bulgarian elders sat in

Provençal synods, Provençal bishops consulted with Bosnian Djeds on

matters of faith. To the orthodox Sclave or Byzantine, there were only

Bogomiles in the Languedoc, and the Romish hierarchy named the heretics

of Bosnia from a suburb of Milan.[48] ‘The believers of the plains of

Lombardy and the South of France,’ to quote the words of the recent

Bohemian historian of Bulgaria, ‘kept up a regular intercourse with their

co-religionists in the Byzantine Empire, Bosnia and Bulgaria, and long

before the capture of Constantinople by the Crusaders or the Turks, a

mighty but secret interchange of thought was at work between East and

West.’[49]

It was during the reign of Culin that this great Puritan movement

attained its widest dimensions, and it is from a contemporary of his,

the Italian Reniero Sacconi, who from a heretic became an inquisitor,

that we obtain the most satisfactory evidence as to the organization of

this early Protestant Church, and the solidarity of its various members,

Sclavonic, Greek, Romance, and Teutonic. The Church of the Cathari, as

he calls them, numbered then as many as thirteen bishoprics, amongst

which that of Bosnia or ‘Slavonia’ was not the least important. By

Culin’s time, the Bogomilian missionaries had succeeded in disseminating

their Armenian doctrines from Philippopolis to Bordeaux, and had formed,

if we may so term it, a middle kingdom of their own—a Lotharingia

of heterodoxy, extending in an unbroken zone through the centre of

orthodox Europe, from the Black Sea to the Atlantic. Nay, the ark of

the faithful, borne northwards and westwards on the free bosom of the

Rhine, had crossed the Channel, and penetrated, as it were by our

great English river, to the seat of English learning; and at the very

time when Protestant Christendom looked to the Ban of Bosnia as its

chief protector, his Angevin contemporary, our Henry II., was branding

Paulicians at Oxford.[50]

Rapid and astonishing as was the spread of these Oriental doctrines

through Latin Christendom, there seems no difficulty in accounting for

it when we remember the missionary zeal which the Sclavonic Bogomiles

had inherited from their Armenian teachers, and which led them, as

we have seen, to set apart funds for the support of Gospellers among

unbelievers. The same impulses which planted an Armenian faith among

the Sclaves are sufficient to account for the success with which the

new converts acclimatized what was now a Sclavonic faith amongst Greeks

and Latins. It is certain that the Bulgarian propaganda made use of

existing trade-routes by land and sea. This indeed is not the place to

enquire what part Bulgaria and what part Bosnia, what part the Save, the

Danube and the Rhine, the Po or the Adige, the commercial currents of the

Adriatic and the Mediterranean—what part Durazzo and the Egnatian Way,

what part Byzantium and Byzantine Lower Italy, may have severally and

collectively played in conveying the Bogomilian heresy to Toulouse,[51]

Milan and Cologne. On the whole the Bosnian influence may be regarded as

later and secondary. It is probable that the first wave of propagandism

was almost entirely Bulgarian, and followed in the wake of Greek

merchantmen. The great part played by Bosnia was rather that of asylum

for the persecuted, and promoter of the faith, in days when heresy had

been stamped out elsewhere with fire and sword. We have, however, precise

data as to the Bogomilian religion having been communicated to Dalmatia

through commercial relations with the interior of Bosnia,[52] and

doubtless, just as the Bulgarians, the South-Easternmost of the Sclavonic

races of the Balkan peninsula, first received their Manichæan Puritanism

from Armenia and the East, so the Bosnians, the North-Westernmost[53] of

the Balkan Sclaves, played at least a part in first communicating it to

Europe and the West.

It is from the pen of a St. Alban’s monk, and a letter of a bishop of

Porto, that we gain the most convincing testimony as to the influence

which, in the palmy days of Ban Culin, and the period immediately

succeeding, was exercised by Bosnia in directing the great Protestant

movement in Western Europe. Matthew Paris[54] relates that the

Albigensians of Provence and Italy possessed a pope of their own, who

resided in Bosnia.[55] This man created a vicar ‘in partibus Galliarum.’

The vicar of this Bosnian anti-pope, who resided at Toulouse, granted him

some lands at a place called Porlos, and the Albigensian heretics betook

themselves to their Bosnian pope to consult him on divers questions of

faith. Matthew Paris and Ralph of Coggeshale are certainly wrong in

converting this Bosnian elder into an anti-pope, and his vicar into

the parody of an orthodox bishop,[56] hierarchy of any sort being, as

we have seen, alien to the spirit of the Bogomilian as well as to the

Albigensian sectaries. Yet it is quite possible that a kind of informal

primacy was at this time accorded to the Bosnian _Djed_, and he may have

fulfilled such moderating functions, as interpreter in matters doctrinal,

as seem to have devolved, a century before, on the ‘heresiarch’ Basil.

The fact that this vicar had been originally sent to the Albigenses by

the Illyrian ‘antipope’ is a convincing proof of the direct missionary

connection between Bosnia and Provence, and the whole incident shows

that in the thirteenth century the Western heretics still looked to the

Slavonic East for the sources of true belief.

It was in vain that on Culin’s death the King of Hungary appointed a

Catholic Ban Zibisclave. It was in vain that in 1216 the Pope sent the

sub-deacon Aconcius to labour at the conversion of the heretics. The

Bogomiles only gained strength, and their faith struck firmer roots in

the neighbouring countries of Croatia, Dalmatia, Istria, Carniola, and

Slavonia. But Rome, in the Albigensian crusades, had already tasted

Christian blood, and resolved to have recourse to the same weapons in

Bosnia which she had employed so efficaciously in Provence. An Archbishop

of Colocz was at hand to play the part of the Abbot of Citeaux. In 1222

he entered Bosnia at the head of an Hungarian host, and used the sword

with such good effect that he had shortly possessed himself of the

provinces of ‘Bosna, Ussora, and Soy.’ Zibisclav, who had defected from

the true faith, saw himself reduced to abjure his errors and to fling

himself at the toes of St. Peter, and the Pope was graciously pleased

‘to embrace sincerely in the arms of his charity both his person and

his lands, and all the goods that he at the present possessed.’[57]

But Zibisclav’s subjects were not inclined to follow the example of

their Ban. On the contrary, they hardened their hearts, and in the very

year, 1233, in which this fond embrace took place, a Bogomilian ‘pope’

or bishop continued to flourish and exercise a powerful authority in

Bosnia. A new crusade was necessary. Coloman, the brother of the King of

Hungary,[58] was the De Montfort of the occasion, and in 1238 entered

Bosnia with a large army to exterminate the heretics. He extended his

havoc through the whole country, and even ‘purged,’ we are told, the

principality of Chelm, which answers to the south-western part of the

Herzegovina. From this period onwards the history of Bosnia for centuries

consists of little more than a series of such bloody inroads; but

there are here none of those details which secure for the heretics of

Alby the commiseration of mankind. Cities are sacked, but there is not

here a Beziers or Carcassonne; the first germs of a civilization are

trodden under foot, but these are not the full-blown roses of Provence;

troubadours of a kind there doubtless were here, too, but it was in

barbarous Sclavonic tongue, and not in the polished _Langue d’Oc_ that

they poured forth ‘their unpremeditated lay,’ and the sound of their lyre

died away among the mountains that gave them birth.[59]

Gregory IX. congratulates Coloman on ‘wiping out the heresy and restoring

the light of Catholic purity,’[60] but the Pope was quick in discovering

that these congratulations were premature. The Tartar invasion which

in 1241 weakened Hungary was the strength of the Bogomiles of Bosnia.

Nor, perhaps, did the slaughter of Ban Zibisclav and many of his bravest

adherents by the horde of Khan Ugadai much affect the subjects whose

creed and interests he had deserted. In 1246 Pope Innocent IV.[61] had

to stir up a third Bosnian crusade, the conduct of which was entrusted

to the Archbishop of Colocz—‘a man skilled,’ as was fitting in an

archbishop, ‘in all the science of war.’ He received a cross from the

Pope to fix upon his heart, and aided by the King Bela, of Hungary,

renewed the pious work. Many heretics were butchered, others were

cast into dungeons; and so great were considered the deserts of the

archbishop, that the Pope transferred the church of Bosnia from Spalato

to Colocz. But once more it was discovered that fire and sword had raged

in vain. Heresy continued to be so rampant in Bosnia that from 1256 the

episcopate of Bosnia, which had been renewed after the first crusade,

lapses a second time.[62] The papacy next resorted to persuasion, the

more so as during the last part of the thirteenth century the Hungarian

suzerainty was becoming less and less binding on Bosnia. About the year

1260 the Minorite brothers of the order of St. Francis of Assisi were

sent into Bosnia to aid the Dominicans, who had been already established

here.[63] At the end of the thirteenth century Bosnia passed for a while

under the overlordship of the Prince of Serbia, and Stephen Dragutine,

who was favourable to the Roman church, allowed two Franciscan brothers

to establish the Inquisition here in 1291.[64]

But at the beginning of the fourteenth century the Hungarians had once

more recovered their ascendency in Bosnia, and the Pope eagerly seized

the weapon of orthodoxy at his service. John XXII. directed two letters,

one to Charles, King of Hungary, and the other to Stephen, Ban of Bosnia.

The letters are almost identical in scope, and are interesting as showing

that Bosnia was still the stronghold and asylum of European heresy, and

as illustrating the peculiar character of these sectaries. The letter

to the Bosnian Ban is dated Avignon, June 1325.[65] ‘To our beloved

son and nobleman, Stephen, Prince of Bosnia,’—‘Knowing that thou art

a faithful son of the church, we therefore charge thee to exterminate

the heretics in thy dominions, and to render aid and assistance unto

Fabian, our Inquisitor, for as much as a large multitude of heretics,

from many and divers parts collected, hath flowed together into the

principality of Bosnia, trusting there to sow their obscene errors and

to dwell there in safety. These men, imbued with the cunning of the Old

Fiend, and armed with the venom of their falseness, corrupt the minds of

Catholics by outward show of simplicity and lying assumption of the name

of Christians; their speech crawleth like a crab, and they creep in with

humility, but in secret they kill, and are wolves in sheeps’ clothing,

covering their bestial fury as a means whereby they may deceive the

simple sheep of Christ.’

The true believers still need to be warned against the apparent meekness

and innocence of these men of the gospel! His Holiness seems almost to

be repeating the description of the Bogomiles given by the Bulgarian

Presbyter over three centuries before. ‘When men,’ says Cosmas, ‘see

their lowly behaviour, then think they that they are of true belief;

they approach them therefore and consult them about their souls’ health.

But they, like wolves that will swallow up a lamb, bow their head, sigh,

and answer full of humility, and set themselves up as if they knew how

it is ordered in heaven.’[66] Hypocritical meekness has been a ready

accusation in the mouths of opponents of puritanism in all ages; but

we may be allowed to see, in the slanders of foul-mouthed popes and

prelates, a tribute to the evangelic purity of the lives of those whom

they persecuted and traduced.

Once more ‘the Lilies of the Field,’ as in their figurative parlance they

loved to style themselves, are trampled under foot. In 1330 the King

of Hungary and the Ban combined to assist the Inquisitor Fabian; many

heretics were hounded from the realm, and the usual scenes of horror were

repeated. In 1337, however, heresy is again as rampant as ever in Bosnia,

and the Pope accordingly stirred up the neighbouring princes to another

Bosnian crusade, which was only averted by the address of the Ban Stephen.

Sometimes the monks condescended to work miracles to forward the work of

conversion. One, while addressing a congregation of heretics, ‘stepped,’

we are assured, ‘into a large fire, and with great hilarity stood in the

middle of the flames while he recited the fiftieth Psalm.’ We hardly need

the further assurance that many were turned from the error of their ways

by miracles like this, especially when it is remembered that the heretics

had the alternative of repenting, or repeating the experiment.

Nor were there wanting, we are told, miraculous tokens in the sky to

manifest the displeasure of heaven itself at these scoffers at Catholic

verity. The mountains whither the Bogomiles had been driven by the pious

zeal of Ban Stephen were struck by celestial fire. ‘Upon the eve of St.

Catharine, 1367, a mighty heavenly flame appeared in the East, with an

intense light terribly apparent to the whole globe. At that time they

say that the loftiest mountains of Bosnia, with all rocks, cattle, wild

beasts, and fowls of the air, were miraculously consumed, so that they

were reduced to a plain; and there dwell the Patarene Manichæans, and

say that God burnt up those mountains for their convenience, because He

loved their faith.’[67] In fact, neither the Bogomiles nor the new Ban

Stephen Tvartko, who favoured them, seem to have been the least appalled

by this phenomenon. Only two years after this miraculous conflagration,

Urban V. writes to the King of Hungary to complain of the Ban of Bosnia,

‘who, following in the detestable footsteps of his fathers, fosters and

defends the heretics who flow together into these parts from divers

corners of the world as into a sink of iniquity.’[68] The Bans of Bosnia,

even when Catholics themselves, seem to have been forced by the strength

of national feeling into an attitude at least of toleration towards the

Bogomiles, and their position in this respect has been aptly compared by

Hilferding to that of the Bulgarian Czars.

During the troublous times of the Bosnian kingdom the Bogomiles increased

in strength, and, what is extremely significant, the heretics of Bosnia

begin to play a part in the revival of the Protestant movement throughout

Europe. We do not know what part the Sclavonic heretics of Bosnia may

have taken in preparing the minds of their Czechian brothers for the

religious revolt of which Huss and Jerome of Prague were the leaders

and exponents. But we do know that from the first intimate relations

existed between the Bogomiles of Bosnia and the Hussites; in 1433 four

Bogomilian or Patarene bishops made their way from Bosnia to the Council

of Basil,[69] and shortly after, in 1437, the Romish bishop Joseph

complains that Bosnia was swarming with Hussites and other heretics.

We have, moreover, very strong indirect evidence that the movement in

Bosnia was at this time directed by men of learning and ability. In 1462

Pius II., being much alarmed at the progress of heresy in Bosnia, and

‘hearing that there was a great want there of men skilled in philosophy,

the sacred canons, and theology,’ sent thither ‘learned men from the

neighbouring provinces,’ and especially the brother Peter de Mili, a

native of Bosnia, and four fellows. These five ‘had studied in the best

Cismontane and Transmontane Universities under the most learned doctors.’

The Pope, moreover, gave orders that some of the largest convents should

be converted into schools for literary studies.[70] We may conclude with

confidence that learning was required in Bosnia to cope with learning.

But the preparation of this polemic artillery was cut short by an event,

the effects of which are even now distracting Christendom. In the year

following that in which his Holiness laments over the continued progress

of heresy in Bosnia, the whole country passed in the short space of

eight days irrevocably under the dominion of the Infidel. The continued

crusades, the persecutions of the Inquisition—fire, sword, exile, and

dungeon—had done their work. The Protestant population of Bosnia had at

last deliberately taken its choice, and preferred the dominion of what

it believed to be the more tolerant Turks to the ferocious tyranny of

Catholic kings, magnates, and monks. There never was a clearer instance

of the Nemesis which follows on the heels of religious persecution.

Europe has mainly to thank the Church of Rome that an alien civilisation

and religion has been thrust into her midst, and that Bosnia at the

present day remains Mahometan.

At the very moment when the Turks were threatening the existence of the

Bosnian kingdom, the King, then Stephen Tomašević, and priests, aided

by the magnates and aristocratic party in the State, were pushing the

persecution of the Bogomiles to an extreme which perhaps it had never

reached before. In the year 1459 King Stephen turned his feudal arms

against the inoffensive Bogomiles at home, and hounded out as many, it

is said,[71] as forty thousand, who took refuge in the Herzegovina, with

their co-religionist, the Duke of St. Sava. Others he sent in chains to

Rome, where it appears they were ‘benignantly converted’—whatever that

means. But the expulsion of forty thousand did little to diminish the

strength of the Bogomiles in Bosnia. In 1462, as we know from the Roman

archives, heresy was as powerful as ever in Bosnia. Already, twelve years

before,[72] the Bogomiles had invited the Turks into Bosnia as their

deliverers; in 1463 the invitation was repeated, a successful negotiation

was opened with the Sultan, and, on Mahomet II.’s invasion, the Catholic

king found himself deserted by his people. The keys of the principal

fortress, the royal city of Bobovac, were handed over to the Turk by

the ‘Manichæan’ governor;[73] the other fortresses and towns hastened

to imitate its example, and within a week ‘seventy cities defended by

nature and art’ passed into the hands of Mahomet. Bosnia, which may be

described as one vast stronghold, refused to strike a blow in defence of

her priestly tyrants.

Perhaps enough has been said to show the really important part played

by Bosnia in European history. We have seen her aid in interpreting

to the West the sublime puritanism which the more Eastern Sclaves of

Bulgaria had first received from the Armenian missionaries. We have seen

her take the lead in the first religious revolt against Rome. We have

seen a Bosnian religious teacher directing the movement in Provence.

We have seen the Protestants of Bosnia successfully resisting all the

efforts of Rome, supported by the arms of Hungary, to put them down.

We have seen them offering an asylum to their persecuted brothers of

the West,—Albigensians, Patarenes, and Waldenses. We have seen them

connected with the Reformation in Bohemia, and affording shelter to

the followers of Huss. From the twelfth century to the final conquest

of the Turks in the sixteenth, when the fight of religious freedom had

been won in Northern Europe, Bosnia presents the unique phenomenon of a

Protestant State existing within the limits of the Holy Roman Empire,

and in a province claimed by the Roman Church. Bosnia was the religious

Switzerland of Mediæval Europe, and the signal service which she has

rendered to the freedom of the human intellect by her successful stand

against authority can hardly be exaggerated. Resistance, broken down in

the gardens of Provence, buried beneath the charred rafters of the Roman

cities of the Langue d’Oc, smothered in the dungeons of the Inquisition,

was prolonged from generation to generation amongst the primeval forests

and mountain fastnesses of Bosnia. There were not wanting, amongst those

who sought to exterminate the Bogomiles, Churchmen as dead to human pity

as the Abbot of Citeaux, and lay arms as bloodthirsty as De Montfort;

but the stubborn genius of the Serbian people fought on with rare

persistence, and held out to the end. The history of these champions of

a purer religion has been written by their enemies, and ignored by those

who owe most to their heroism. No Martyrology of the Bogomiles of Bosnia

has come down to us. We have no Huss or Tyndale to arrest our pity.

‘Invidious silence’ has obscured their fame,

Illachrymabiles

Urgentur, ignotique longâ

Nocte, carent quia vate sacro.

Protestant historians, fearful of claiming relationship with heretics

whose views on the Origin of Evil were more logical than their own, have

almost or entirely ignored the existence of these Sclavonic Puritans.

Yet of all worn-out devices of _ad captandum_ argument this assuredly

is the most threadbare, to ignore the transitions of intervening links,

and pointing to the extremes of a long concatenation of causes and

effects, to seize upon their differences as a proof of disconnection.

In the course of ages the development of creeds and churches is not

less striking than that of more secular institutions. Bogomilism

obeyed an universal law; it paid the universal tribute of successful

propagandism; it compromised; or, where it did not compromise, it was

ruthlessly stamped out. The Manichæan elements, most distasteful to

modern Protestants, were in fact the first to disappear.[74] In its

contact with the semi-pagan Christianity of the West, the puritanism of

the Gnostic East became, perforce, materialized; just as, ages before,

Christianity itself, an earlier wave of the same Eastern puritanism had

materialized in its contact with the undiluted heathendom of the Western

empire. To a certain extent Bogomilism gained. It lost something of its

dreamy transcendentalism, something of its anti-human vigour, and by

conforming to the exigencies of Western society, became to a certain

extent more practical. Thus by the sixteenth century the path had been

cleared for a compromise with orthodoxy itself. The Reformation marks the

confluence of the two main currents of religious thought that traverse

the middle ages, in their several sources, Romish and Armenian. No doubt,

from the orthodox side, which refused to reject all that was beautiful

in the older world, which consecrated Greco-Roman civilization and

linked art with religion, the West has gained much; but in days of gross

materialism and degrading sacerdotalism, it has gained perhaps even more

from the purging and elevating influence of these early Puritans. The

most devout Protestant need not be afraid to acknowledge the religious

obligations which he owes to his spiritual forefathers, Manichæan though

they were; while those who perceive in Protestantism itself nothing more

than a stepping-stone to still greater freedom of the human mind, and

who recognize the universal bearings of the doctrine of Evolution, will

be slow to deny that England herself and the most enlightened countries

of the modern world may owe a debt, which it is hard to estimate, to the

Bogomiles of Bulgaria and Bosnia.

After the Turkish conquest of Bosnia the history of the Bogomiles in

those parts becomes obscure. That they still existed in the revived

Banat of lower Bosnia we may gather from a passage in the ‘Annals of

the Minorites,’[75] to the effect that in 1478 the city of Jaycze

was ‘polluted by heretics and schismatics.’ Many who had resisted the

propaganda of Rome appear to have found in the iconoclastic puritanism

of Islâm a belief less incompatible with their own. We have direct

evidence that it was the Bogomiles who chiefly swelled the ranks of the

renegades.[76] Many, doubtless, when they found how hard were the masters

they had called in, were provoked to their old attitude of resistance,

and perished for their obstinacy. They are generally said to have died

out, and the Bosnian monks of the order of St. Francis, who, in 1769,

supplied the author of ‘Illyricum Sacrum’ with an account of the present

state of that country, declare that there are no traces left of them.

This, however, is not the case. During the recent insurrection, over

2,000 Bogomiles from Popovo, a single district of the Herzegovina, took

refuge in the hospitable territory of what was once the Republic of

Ragusa.[77]

To return to the more secular aspects of Bosnian history. Much still

remains to be elucidated by Sclavonic historians with regard to the inner

government of the country, the rise of the semi-feudal nobility, and the

complicated relations of parties. Here it would be hopeless to attempt

anything more than the merest outline, giving prominence only to a few

episodes of general interest. The Hungarian overlordship is occasionally

broken by a Serbian, and Stephen Dūshan, who, in the middle of the

fourteenth century, revived the Czardom among the Balkan Sclaves, seized

the pretext of a claim on the Principality of Chelm to overrun Bosnia,

and add its dominion to his titles. For an interesting monument of this

period I may refer the reader to the account of the Book of Arms of

Bosnian Nobility, drawn up in the year 1340 by order of the Serbian Czar,

which we saw in the Franciscan Monastery of Foinica.[78]

But this Serbian suzerainty vanishes with the dreams of Stephen Dūshan.

Shortly after his date the Bans of Bosnia become so powerful that they

are able to annex the two important Serbian provinces of Rascia and

Zenta, which answers to the modern Montenegro, and to proclaim themselves

virtually independent both of the Serbian and Hungarian monarchies. In

1376 the Ban, Stephen Tvartko, was strong enough to extort from his

uncle, King Louis of Hungary, permission to assume the royal style—the

King of Hungary only reserving the _suprema dominatio_.[79] After half a

year spent in preparations, Tvartko, accompanied by his lords spiritual

and temporal, and by four representatives from each important town,

progressed from his residence of Sutiska to the Monastery of Mileševo,

the foundation and burial-place of his uncle and predecessor, but the

greater glory of which was that it contained the tomb of the Serbian

Apostle, St. Sava. There he was crowned by the hands of the Metropolitan,

and assumed the title of Stephen Tvartko, by the grace of God King of

Rascia, Bosnia, and Primorie.[80]

Stephen Tvartko distinguished his rule by his wisdom and toleration.

Though himself leaning in his belief alternately to Greek orthodoxy and

Roman Catholicism, he displayed a generous toleration of the Bogomiles;

he did much to encourage trade and commerce, and was indeed, after Culin,

the first Bosnian prince who struck coins.[81] He succeeded in quelling

the insolence of his great nobles who had burst out into rebellion, under

the leadership of his brother, and the attendance at his coronation of

four representatives from each of his great cities would alone be a

striking proof that Bosnia was advancing on the path of constitutional

liberty, and was not by any means alien to the civic and industrial

impulses of fourteenth-century Europe. Nay, it is certain that, in spite

of the prevalence of Bogomilism among the masses, and of the artistically

blighting influence of an iconoclastic religion on a rude society, arts

of a more æsthetic kind were penetrating among the Bosnian mountains.

Nor was it only in the illuminations of heraldry, the embellishment of

gold and silver work, and the superb embroidery of sacred vestments that

these more refined influences asserted themselves. That munificent patron

of South-Sclavonic Art, the present Roman Catholic bishop of Bosnia, has

collected in his palace of Diakovar, a series of paintings by Bosnian

artists of this and the succeeding century, which reflect the Giottesque

revulsion from the wooden Byzantinism which preceded it, and show that

Bosnia bade fair to produce a school of artists who might hold a place in

the galleries of Europe.[82]

_Dîs aliter placitum!_ Already, through the passes of the Balkan the

storm was howling nearer and nearer that was to annihilate the budding

gems of culture and free government in Bosnia. In 1353,—five years before

Tvartko’s accession to the Banat,—under Suleiman, the son of Orchan, the

Turks had first set foot in Europe. In twelve more years their ravages

had spread to Attica, the Palæologi had pawned their crown jewels,

and the Turkish Sultan had transferred his residence from Broussa to

Adrianople. The tide of invasion poured along the Pontic shores, across

the plains of Thrace, and was bursting through the iron gates of Hæmus.

The Crescent already floated on the holy city of Bulgaria, the Marica had

run red with the blood of Serbian chivalry, and turbaned warriors had

scaled the salt steppes of Albania; the people, in the plaintive words of

their heroic poetry, ‘were scattered abroad like the fowls of the air,’

and Macedonia was resigned to wolves and vultures. Meanwhile, Bulgaria,

already half conquered, was split up into the two rival Czardoms of

Tirnovo and Widdin; Serbia, by the death of Czar Dūshan, had lost the one

man capable of restraining anarchy at home, or of marshalling the forces

of the nation against the Turkish invaders, and the great empire of the

Némanjas had shivered into a hundred fragments.

Thus it was that in the hour of disunion and despair Serb and Bulgar

alike turned to the new and rising kingdom that their Bosnian kinsmen

had established in the Illyrian West. Tvartko was now at the height

of his power, and included under his sceptre more extensive dominions

than any Bosnian Ban, or King, before or after. He had seized the land

of Chelm, the later Herzegovina, which had belonged to former Bans

of Bosnia, till exchanged for Primorie with the King of Hungary; and

added to it the two old Serbian Župas of Canali[83] and Tribunja; he

had extended at least a suzerainty over the Principality of Zenta or

the Black-Mountain; and by 1382 appears to have reduced the whole of

Dalmatia, with the single exception of the city of Zara. Tvartko ruled

already from beyond the Drina to the islands of the Adriatic, and from

the Save to the lake of Skodra, but his ambition aimed at nothing short

of re-establishing the empire of the Balkan Sclaves under a Bosnian

sceptre, and of ruling, it might be, over wider realms than the greatest

of the Némanjas. For these mighty schemes not only did he seem qualified

by his personal abilities, but by connection and descent. His first wife,

Dorothea, was the daughter of the Bulgarian Czar, Sracimir of Widdin;

on his mother’s side he traced his descent from Stephen Dragutin; and,

on the extinction of the Némanjids, claimed to be the rightful heir of

the Serbian Kings and Czars.[84] In Croatia he had allied himself with

the nobility in their opposition to their Hungarian suzerain, with the

object of incorporating that province in his own dominions, and extending

his frontier to the Drave.[85] Thus the appeal of the Sclavonic princes,

Serbian and Bulgarian, who felt themselves powerless to repel the Turks,

not only roused the Bosnian King to a sense of his own impending danger,

but flattered his ambition. He hastened to respond to the appeal, by

gathering an army of 30,000 men and advancing in person against the

Infidel. For a moment that fatal spell of isolation which had held Bosnia

so long aloof from the fortunes of neighbouring and kindred people is

broken through, and she stands forth against the Turks at the head of a

great confederacy of the Southern Sclaves, whose members were scattered

from Silistria to Durazzo, and from Thessalonica to Belgrade. Joining his

forces to the Serbian host collected by the ill-starred Knez Lazar, King

Tvartko took advantage of the absence of Sultan Amurath in Asia, to fall

upon his army near Pločnik on the Toplica, and inflicted on it such an

annihilating defeat that scarce a fifth escaped the sword or captivity.

Amurath was furious, and hurried from Asia to avenge the disaster.

Tirnovo fell, and the sight of a captive Czar struck terror into the

Bulgarians. Tvartko despatched an army under his brave General, Vlatko

Hranić, to the aid of the Sclavonic confederates, and for the last time

Bosniac, Serb, Croat, and Bulgarian, joined their forces against the

Infidel. Only two years after the rout of Pločnik, on June 15, St. Vitus’

day, 1389, on the ill-omened field of Kóssovo was fought one of the great

battles of the world, decisive even in its indecisiveness.

Nothing but a brilliant victory could have galvanized into unity the

ill-compacted alliance of the Sclaves. We need not dwell upon the

incidents of the fight.[86] How the hero Miloš met the wassail taunts of

treachery by rushing to his doom and stabbing ‘the Turkish Czar Murad’ in

his pavilion; how the head of the Serbian Knez Lazar was held aloft by

its grey hairs to glut the glazing eyes of the Turkish Sultan; how the

Bosnian Voivode, metamorphosed into his Herzegovinian successor,—‘ducal

Stephen,’ struck down nine Pashàs and sank himself before the tenth; of

the lightning charge of Bajazet, the thunder-stroke of his iron mace,

the crowning treachery of Vuk; or how, long afterwards, the Serbian

wayfarers on the Field of Thrushes found the body of their sainted King,

and Knez Lazar was borne at last by priestly hands ‘to beauteous Ravanica

in the mountain forest,’ there to lie amidst his kindred in the convent

of his rearing: all this, with many a legendary aftergrowth, lives as

fresh in the minds of the Southern Sclaves as if it were of yesterday.

There is not a name in that heroic muster-roll which is not a household

word wherever the Serbian tongue is spoken. Epic lays of the fatal day

of Kóssovo are still sung every day to throngs of peasant listeners by

minstrels of the people, whose rhapsodies, set to the dolorous strains of

the ghuzla, resound in a great national dirge along the willowed banks of

Save and Danube, through the beechwood glens of Bosnia, the dark recesses

of the Balkan, the mountain strongholds of the Czernagora, till, far away

across the Illyrian desert, they find an echo in that caverned waste

of rock that frowns above the blue waters of the Adriatic. The battle

of Kóssovo has grown and grown on the imagination of oppressed peoples

who only realized its full significance long afterwards. Tragic and

romantic as were the actual incidents of that great contest, they stand

out against the disastrous twilight that succeeded, in fantastic and

supernatural relief, lit up by the lurid conflagrations of after ravages.

At the time, we have the most direct evidence that the battle was

regarded by one at least of the principal actors as a great victory for

Christendom. Amurath was slain, the Turks had retired from the field of

battle, and the brave Bosnian General had returned to his sovereign with

unbroken forces. Tvartko wrote word to the citizens of Traù and Florence

that he had once more triumphed over the Infidel, and Te Deums of

thanksgiving for the success of the Christian arms were celebrated in the

cathedral of Notre Dame and in the presence of the king of France.[87]

Yet the death-knell of the Serbians and Bulgarians had already sounded,

the last confederacy of the Southern Sclaves was broken up, the imperial

aspirations of the Bosnian King were dashed for ever, and the doom of

Bosnia itself was but postponed.

The battle of Kóssovo was the turning-point in Tvartko’s fortunes. His

intrigues in Croatia, and a victory obtained over the Hungarian arms in

Dalmatia, roused the Magyar King, Sigismund, to vengeance, and Tvartko,

prevented himself by bodily weakness from taking an active part in the

hostilities, saw his allies defeated, his province of Ussora overrun,[88]

and himself reduced to renew his homage.

In 1391 Tvartko dies, of vexation, it is said, at these reverses, and is

succeeded by Stephen Dabiscia, otherwise known as Tvartko II., and he

again in 1396 by Tvartko III.[89] The greater part of the long reign of

this King, which lasted forty-seven years, is distracted by perpetual

wars, connected with the disputed succession of the Hungarian crown. It

is extremely difficult to trace out the aims of the different parties

who are now disputing for mastery in Bosnia. At one time Tvartko III.,

who seems, like his father, Tvartko I., to have aimed at Croatian

annexations, appears at the head of an insurrection of Bosnian and

Croatian magnates against Sigismund of Hungary, and in 1408 is defeated

and captured under the walls of his historic Castle of Doboj,[90] where

the conqueror executed 180 Bosnian and Croatian nobles. Tvartko, though

forced to resume his allegiance, was suffered to retain his crown, and

for many years we find him maintaining his position in league with the

party of Sigismund among the Magyars, and generally by the support of

the Bogomiles, and the popular party who seem to be identical with them.

When the Magnates and their auxiliaries of the Neapolitan and Dalmatian

faction sought to oppose him and set up a rival king, Tvartko carried

out his national policy still further by sending a message to Vladislaus

Jagellon, the Polish claimant of the Hungarian throne, in which he

offered him his homage and begged for assistance on the plea of the

common origin of the Poles and Bosniacs.[91]

In this universal confusion the Turks first make good a footing in

Bosnia. Already in the reign of Stephen Dabiscia, Bajazet had advanced

into the county of Chelm and established stationary quarters at a spot

become memorable in the most recent times as the scene of the first

outbreak of a revolt which has shaken Turkish dominion in Bosnia to its

foundations—Nevešinje.[92] But in the factious contests which distracted

the reign of the third Tvartko, each of the competitors for dominion

outbade the other for Turkish help, and it was by the direct invitation

and under the actual leadership of a turbulent noble that the Turks first

gained sufficient footing in Bosnia to establish there a Sandjakate. The

whole story is worth repeating, as it singularly illustrates the state

into which this unhappy country had fallen. At the time there were two

kings in Bosnia; Tvartko, who had now made his peace with Sigismund

and ruled over the parts of Bosnia along the Drina and the Serbian

frontier, and Ostoja, who owed his elevation to the Neapolitan faction of

Ladislaus, and whose territory embraced the maritime parts and a tract

roughly answering to the later Herzegovina. Between the Eastern and the

Western kingdom lay a more or less neutral wedge of country which had

been carved out by King Sigismund and formed into a Hungarian Banat under

the great Croatian noble Hervoja Horvatić, whose dominion included the

city of Jaycze, and anticipated in its extent that Banat of lower Bosnia

which, at a later time, Mathias Corvinus recovered from the Turkish

conqueror. Hervoja, who assumed the title of Chief Voivode, and even

Prince, of Bosnia,[93] and who shifted his allegiance, as the whim seized

him, from Tvartko and Sigismund to Ostoja and Ladislaus, happened on one

occasion to have honoured King Sigismund with his presence at his court.

Hervoja, who added a bullying manner to a body of bovine dimensions, was

haranguing the assembled magnates, Hungarian and Bosnian, in his usual

tones, when a certain Paul Chupor, Ban of Slavonia, broke in upon his

lordship by bellowing like a bull. This was too much for the gravity of

court ceremonial, and King Sigismund himself could not help joining in

the general laugh. But Hervoja, in a frantic rage, left the court, and

hurried back to his Banat, vowing vengeance against the Hungarian King,

his Bosnian liegeman King Tvartko, and every baron who followed their

banners. Seizing the opportunity when both of them were away in Germany,

he called in the Turks and took the command of the invading horde in

person. In the absence of the two Kings, the magnates of the country,

with his mortal enemy, Paul Chupor, at their head, united their retainers

to oppose him. Hervoja defeated their army, and having the luck to take

his old insulter prisoner, had him sewn up alive in a bull’s hide and

thrown into the river, with the characteristic jest, ‘When thou wert a

man thou didst speak with a bull’s voice; take now thy bull’s hide as

well!’

The Turks after devastating the country, destroying Varch Bosna near

the site of Serajevo and penetrating into the district of Sala in lower

Bosnia, refused this time to content themselves with plunder, and

established their first Sandjakate in Bosnia. Hervoja, seeing himself

thrown over by the Turks, who found him no longer useful as a cat’s-paw,

and deserted by his own adherents, shut himself up in his family castle

at Cattaro, and worn with vexation, perhaps remorse, died the same

summer. The two Kings, Tvartko and Sigismund, succeeded on their return

in gaining a victory over the Turks, slaying the Sandjak Ikach, and

freeing Bosnia for a while from the occupation of the Infidel. But the

anarchy within continued, and in 1430 culminated in the spectacle of

three rival princes, each of them claiming to be King of Bosnia! In 1435

the death of his two rivals left Tvartko III. once more sole king; but

shortly after that date the part of his dominions which answers to the

modern Herzegovina separates itself from the rest of Bosnia, and forms

for a while an independent principality.

The County of Chelm, variously designated as the Banat of Zachlumje and

the land of Humska, had been originally incorporated in the Banat of

Bosnia by the Ban Stephen[94] in 1326. We have seen it exchanged for

Primorie with the King of Hungary, and re-annexed by the first King of

Bosnia, who granted it as a fief to his brave general Vlatko Hranić. His

grandson, who from his birthplace Cosac, was known as Stephen Cosača, or

Cosaccia,[95] took advantage of the weakness of Tvartko III. to transfer

the immediate suzerainty of his county to the Emperor Frederick IV., who

in 1440 created him Duke, or, as his Sclavonic subjects who had borrowed

the German word expressed it, _Herzega_, of St. Sava.[96] This, and the

further title of ‘Keeper of St. Sava’s Sepulchre,’ he derived from the

tomb of the patron saint of Serbia in his monastery of Mileševo.

The Herzegovina, or Duchy, as this country now begins to be called,[97]

included, besides the old county of Chelm, the coastland district known

as Primorie, and extended from the borders of Rascia to the neighbourhood

of Zara.[98] Stephen Cosaccia fixed as the seat of his government

the important point where the old Roman bridge still spans the river

Narenta, and the City of Mostar still looks back to Radivoj Gost, his

_Curopalata_ or ‘Mayor of the Palace,’ as its founder.[99]

During the last years of Tvartko’s reign Bosnia enjoyed the peace she

so much needed. The King who had inherited many of the good qualities,

though not perhaps the martial ardour and masterful ambition of

his father, the first Tvartko, won the hearts of his people by his

even-handed justice. He heard complaints himself, sitting in the gate,

as the Prince of Montenegro does at the present day, and decided the

cases set before him with wisdom. Before punishment could be inflicted

on anyone judgment had first to be pronounced by the Starosts or Elders

of the realm, and the verdict had first to be submitted to the approval

of the people. Business of state was conducted by the King in Council,

and his chief advisers were the Bans of Jaycze and Bosna. In Tvartko’s

days, we are told, no flatterer dare approach the Court. The Bogomiles

enjoyed toleration, and Tvartko himself and the chief barons of the

realm, including the Count of Popovo and Trebinje, the despot George of

Serbia, and Sandalj Hranić were adherents of the sect. The Franciscan

Missionaries, to whom directly or indirectly a very large share of the

troubles of the Bosnian kingdom was due, were confined to the districts

where they were already settled, and compelled to limit their exactions

to a more restricted sphere; Tvartko even profited by a quarrel that

broke out between them and the superior of their order, to place them

under his direct jurisdiction.[100]

Stephen Thomas succeeded Tvartko ‘the Just’ on the throne of Bosnia in

1443. He was an illegitimate son of Ostoja and a Ragusan lady, Voiacchia,

and was raised to the throne by the Bogomiles to whose communion he

belonged. True to the policy which prompted the Puritan population of

Bosnia to seek a counterpoise against Catholic Hungary in their fellow

Puritans, the champions of Islâm, King Stephen Thomas began his reign by

promising a yearly tribute to the Sultan. But the Papal party had rightly

reckoned on the weakness of Thomas’s character; and the subtle genius of

the Apostolic legate, Thomasini, whom the Pope had sent to effect his

conversion, knew only too well how to play upon his fears and cupidity.

Stephen Thomas was illegitimate; the lawful son of Ostoja, Radivoj (or

Gaudenzo) had returned from Turkish exile and put in a claim on the

Bosnian crown; the Papal party had powerful weapons at their command in

the Duke of St. Sava, then a staunch Catholic, who refused allegiance and

invaded Thomas’s territory, and in the King of Hungary, who as suzerain,

declined to recognize the title of a heretic prince. Thomasini offered to

legitimate Thomas and his heirs, to obtain for him a consecrated crown,

to reconcile his rivals and his suzerain. The King of Bosnia yielded,

abjured his Bogomilian heresy, and was baptized into the Catholic fold.

Thomas, who had hitherto hesitated to take the style of King in his

official acts,[101] was formally crowned in 1444. His homage was accepted

by the Hungarian King Ladislaus, and his rival Radivoj was pacified with

the grant of the Banat of Jaycze.

In Bosnia itself this abjuration of the national faith produced the most

deplorable effects. The Inquisition raised its head, the Franciscans

were again rampant. The Bogomiles saw themselves betrayed by the King

of their own creation. The great vassal of the Bosnian crown, Stephen

Cosaccia, Duke of St. Sava, who in the first blush of Thomas’s conversion

had been induced to return to his allegiance, and whose goodwill had

been further courted by Thomas taking his daughter Catharine to wife,

now began to find it politic to cut himself adrift from the Papal party,

and to bid for complete independence of the Bosnian Crown by posing

as the protector of the Bogomiles. Meanwhile, beyond the border, the

great battle of Varna had been fought, the Hungarians routed, and their

King slain. As the danger of Turkish conquest drew nearer and nearer,

the most bigoted champions of the Roman Church might see the danger of

throwing the Protestant population into the arms of the invader; and

the most sanguine of the Christian Puritans, viewing the fate of their

brothers in Bulgaria, might shrink from accepting the dominion of their

Mahometan counterparts. In the Diet, or Great Council of the Realm,

which King Stephen Thomas assembled at Coinica, we may see a last effort

to check the growing anarchy, and unite the discordant elements of the

realm. I have given an account of the great charter of King Stephen

Thomas while describing the scene of the ‘Conventus’ of Coinica.[102]

In it the constitutional relation of the Duke of St. Sava will be found

defined, and the clause which enacts ‘that the Manichæans build no new

church nor restore the old,’ but which omits to prescribe any further

penalties or to fulminate any of the usual anathemas against them, seems

to me to imply that even the Bogomiles were to be accorded comparative

toleration.[103] But passions ran too high, anarchy was too inveterate

in Bosnia, for this attempt at internal pacification to succeed. In

the Papal legate, Thomasini, King Stephen Thomas had ever at his side

an evil genius, who inclined him more and more towards the path of

persecution. With the Turk at the door King Thomas, who was known to

the Roman Catholics as the ‘pious,’ once more lent the support of the

civil arm to the Inquisition. The Bogomiles turned for protection to the

Turks, their only possible ally, and, four years after the ‘Conventus’ of

Coinica, invited them into the country. Stephen Thomas, a tyrant towards

his own subjects, showed himself a craven before the foe, and purchased

an ignominious peace from Amurath by agreeing to pay him 25,000 ducats a

year. But the Turkish suzerainty became more and more galling, and the

fall of Constantinople in 1453 finally roused him from his lethargy.

Four years after that event he issued from his Palace of Sutisca, near

the Castle of Bobovac, an appeal to the whole Christian world for help

against the Infidel.[104] This was addressed to the Pope, the King of

Arragon, the Doge of Venice, the Duke of Burgundy, and other Christian

princes. But the days of the Crusades were gone by, and the appeal of

the King of Bosnia met with no response, save that the Pope sent him a

consecrated standard and a cross.

Meanwhile the death of the brave John Hunyadi, and the paralysing civil

war in Hungary, left the Bosnian King without his one ally. The Turkish

ravages now extended to the heart of Bosnia. Already, in 1449, Turks

were settled in the country between the Drina and Ukrina stream,[105]

on the main line of communication between Bosnia and Hungary; now, the

neighbouring Pashàs and Agas begin to drive a regular traffic in Bosnian

slaves. A half mythical atmosphere surrounds the last days of the Bosnian

kingdom. It is said that the craven Thomas, fearing to resist the Turks,

entered into a secret league with them. We are told by contemporary

writers that Mahomet himself, disguised as a Morabite, made his way

in company with two real members of that order, into the royal palace

of Sutiska,[106] that King Thomas showed him all honour, and solemnly

entered with him into that sworn brothership so hallowed amongst the

Southern Sclaves, the _Pobratimstvo_. Whether such a meeting actually

occurred, or whether the whole story was the invention of domestic

enemies, there can be no doubt that the poltroonery and tergiversation

of Thomas had alienated even that Catholic faction on which since his

abjuration of Bogomilism he had relied. Signs of defection already

appeared, and the King turned the arms that he should have employed

against the national enemy, to reduce a refractory Croatian vassal. It

was while besieging his castle, encamped on the field of Bielaj, that

King Stephen Thomas was assassinated, if report spoke truly, by his

step-brother Radivoj and his illegitimate son Stephen.

The parricide Stephen Tomašević at once usurped the throne, though

Stephen Thomas is often regarded by Bosnians as their last king. The

Catholic and anti-Turkish party were now triumphant, and the new King

began his reign by an appeal to the feudal nobility of Bosnia to meet

him with their retainers equipped for battle against the Infidel, on

the field of Kóssovo. This summons is dated Pristina, June 3, 1459,

and is one of the last records of feudal Bosnia. The Barons, Prelates,

Nobles, Voivodes, and magnates of the realm,[107] are summoned by

name. The Župans[108] of Rascia and of Serbia, with their banners and

retainers, the Ban of Jaycze, the Ban of Ussora, the Duke of St. Sava,

and the lesser nobles, are marshalled before us on parchment. The King

appeals to their orthodox bigotry, and seems to take an illustration

from the fire-drakes of Sclavonic folk-lore. ‘What faithful Christian,’

he asks, ‘and zealous lover of the orthodox faith can restrain his

tears when considering the capture of Constantinople?’ He calls on the

Barons aforesaid ‘to meet us on the field of Kóssovo in June, for we

ought in a body to advance against the dragon, lest he spit forth over

us his venom.’[109] But King Stephen Tomašević inherited his father’s

poltroonery, with more than his father’s bigotry. We do not know that

he ever met the Turks at Kóssovo; but we know that this same year he

turned the arms of his orthodox Magnates against his unoffending Bogomile

subjects, and hounded 40,000 of them from the realm. His brave generals,

Paul Kubretić and Tomko Mergnjavić, defended severally the line of

the Drina and the Rascian frontier with success, but the surrender of

Semendria which the Hungarians had intrusted to his safe-keeping, to

the Turks, had irritated Mathias Corvinus and the powerful Hungarian

faction among the Magnates, and this dissatisfaction was intensified by

Tomašević throwing himself and his kingdom at the feet of the Papacy,

which, however, wisely refused to accept it. Meanwhile it was no secret

that Mahomet was preparing for his great invasion of Bosnia.

The King of Bosnia who had already secured the alliance of the Venetians

and Scanderbeg, turned once more to the Pope, if not to gain him fresh

allies, at least to sanctify his efforts, and to breathe into his

followers the enthusiasm of a new crusade. The ambassadors of Tomašević

appeared at Rome in 1463, and were received in solemn conclave by the

Pope. They read to him and the spiritual senators assembled an appeal

drawn up by the Bosnian King’s own hand. The speech, for it is nothing

less, has been preserved, and is the last monument of Christian Bosnia.

In turns it is argumentative, insinuating, and solemn; selfish personal

ambition is blended in a remarkable way with a real appreciation of the

gravity of the situation, and the far-reaching consequences of a Turkish

conquest of Bosnia to Hungary and Christendom; and the King as he warms

with his harangue forgets the official plural of a royal style and lapses

into the impressive individuality of a prophet.

‘Most Holy Father, we, Stephen Tomašević, King of Bosnia, send this

embassy unto thee, for that Mahomet hath conceived this summer to fall

upon our realm. Already hath he gathered together his array of war; nor

is our strength sufficient that we should stand against him. In our

grievous necessity we have turned to the Hungarians and the Venetians

for succour; and George, the Prince of Albania, hath promised us his

help. Now, therefore, have we also turned to thee, O most Holy Father.

No mountains of gold do we ask of thee, but this alone, that our enemies

and our true friends should know that we have thy protection. If so

be that the Bosnians know that they fight not alone, then will their

courage be the keener; whereas the Barbarian will fear to attack our

land, the passes wherein are difficult, and the fenced cities well nigh

impregnable. Eugenius, thy predecessor, promised our father the throne,

and that he would establish some bishoprics in Bosnia; but our father

refused to accept this treaty, lest peradventure he should magnify the

hatred of the Turks against him; for that he himself was newly converted,

and the Manichæans were not yet pursued the realm. But I was christened

in the true faith, I learned Latin in my childhood, and have remained

steadfast in my Christian belief. I fear not therefore what my father

feared, and therefore do I entreat thee that thou wouldest send me a

crown and the holy bishops. Let this be for a monument that thou wilt

not forsake me or my realm. If the enemy breaks in, a crown received

from thy hands will be unto my friends as an earnest of victory, and

for a terror to my foes. In my father’s lifetime, thou didst issue thy

commands that the Crusaders, assembled in Dalmatia under the overseeing

of the Venetians, should help him, but this pleased not the Venetian

Senate. Bid them now that they come to my aid, if haply thou shalt find

more obedience, forasmuch as they have turned from their former designs,

and they shall make war against the Turks. This moreover do I pray, that

thou send thy legate unto Hungary, that so he may set before the King my

grievous necessity, and may spur him on to join his arms with mine.

‘By such means the realm of Bosnia may yet be preserved; otherwise it

falls to pieces: for insatiable ambition knows no bounds. But if so be

that I am subjugated, the hereditary foe will fall upon the Hungarians,

and having subdued the Dalmatians, Istrians, and Carinthians, will turn

his arms also against Italy. The first fury of the storm threatens me,

after me the Hungarians and Venetians and other peoples must bend before

it, nor will Italy remain secure. Such are the foe’s designs. I have

learnt them, and therefore do I communicate to thee this intelligence

that thou mayest not lay drowsiness to my charge, nor say that these

things were not foretold. My father too had foretold to thy predecessor

and to the Venetians the fall of Constantinople. He was not believed, and

Christendom lost one city of the Cæsars, the Patriarch’s seat and the

pride of Greece. Of myself only do I now prophesy. Believest thou me?

then succour me, and I am delivered; otherwise I perish. O thou who art

the father of Christendom, give counsel and help!’

The Pope in reply recognised the truth of King Stephen’s warnings, and

promised to place the arms in Dalmatia at his disposal, to build the

desired cathedrals in Bosnia, and send the bishops. The consecrated

crown he held in readiness, but would not send it without the consent

of Mathias, Stephen’s suzerain, with whom he recommended him to make

friends. Let Stephen prevent Mahomet’s invasion by occupying the passes;

Hungary and Venice would fly to his assistance.

But while King Stephen Tomašević was pleading for new bishops from the

Pope, another negociation was being transacted between his oppressed

subjects and the Sultan. While the infatuated king was boasting that he

had purged his realm of the Manichæan heretics; these very sectaries

who, in spite of the expulsion of 40,000 three years before, still

formed apparently the large majority of the population, though forced to

dissemble their opinions, seeing themselves threatened on the one hand

by a new Romish influx, on the other by invaders indeed, but Puritans

at least like themselves, turned to the Turks. By the mouth of their

spiritual chiefs the negociation with Mahomet was successfully completed.

The Bogomiles promised to transfer their allegiance from their Romish

sovereign to the Sultan, Mahomet on the other hand engaging to insure

them free toleration for their religion, freedom from taxation, and other

privileges.[110]

In 1463 Mahomet crossed the Drina and poured into Bosnia an army, the

cavalry alone of which was exaggerated by the terror of the natives

into 150,000 horsemen. On June 14 a Turkish Pashà appeared at the

head of a large force beneath the walls of Bobovac, the ancient seat

of Bosnian Bans and Kings. The Sultan himself came up next day, and

the governor[111]—a ‘Manichee,’ we are told, ‘who had feigned to be a

Christian’—forthwith, with the consent of the garrison, who it is to be

supposed were equally disaffected against the Catholic rulers, opened

the gates to the Turk. Thus passed into the hands of Mahomet a fortress

of the greatest strength, and supplied with provisions for a two-years’

siege. The King of Bosnia, panic-stricken at the loss of his royal city,

and seeing himself betrayed by his own subjects, shut himself up with his

treasures in Jaycze, another royal city, as strong by its position and

fortifications as Bobovac; but feeling himself still insecure, at the

approach of the Pashà fled with his treasures to Clissa on the coast of

Primorie, where, after forty days’ siege, on condition of his life being

spared, he surrendered himself to Mahomet, together with his treasures,

the accumulated hoards of five kings, amounting, it is said, to a million

of ducats.[112]

The crafty Sultan utilized, we are told, the King’s authority to obtain

possession of the remaining strongholds of Bosnia. He extorted from

him writs to the governors of the different cities, ordering them to

give up their keys to the Turks. All obeyed. The Protestant population

of Bosnia did not need the royal mandate; they looked on the Turks

rather as deliverers than foes, and in the short space of eight days

seventy cities, ‘defended by nature and art,’ opened their gates to the

Sultan’s officers.[113] Then at last the Christians of Bosnia discovered

that they had betrayed one tyranny to make room for a worse. The King,

Stephen Tomašević, having served his turn, was barbarously executed by

his perfidious captor. Accounts differ as to the exact manner of his

death; but it matters little whether he suffered the fate of Marsyas,

St. Sebastian, or Charles I.; and poetic justice is satisfied, if we

may believe the statement that the parricide king met his doom on

the same field of Bielaj where he murdered his father.[114] The most

eminent nobles who had not escaped to Dalmatia were transported to Asia,

thirty thousand of the picked youth of Bosnia were taken to recruit the

Janissaries, and two hundred thousand of the inhabitants were sold as

slaves.

By a strange irony of fate the blow fell hardest on the cities, where

the Bogomilian faction lay.[115] How terrible was their calamity the

example of Jaycze, the chief city of the realm, and Clissa, the last

refuge of Bosnian royalty, abundantly display. The burghers of Jaycze,

relying on the Sultan’s pledge to respect their municipal freedom, their

ancient privileges and their property, had gone forth to welcome him

within their gates. But no sooner was the city in his possession than the

treacherous Osmanlì, not content with arresting the chief nobility of the

realm and the king’s brother and daughter whom he found within the walls,

seized on the children of the leading citizens for distribution among his

Pashàs and Agas, and enrolment in his new body-guard. The fate of Clissa

(or Kliuć) was still more overwhelming. The Turkish Beglerbeg divided the

townspeople into three parts. One of them he adjudicated to his troops

as booty; another portion, the youths and children, he set apart for

enrolment in the Janissary guard; and the remainder, but not, we may be

assured, either the young or the beautiful, he left to pay tribute for

their desolated homes.

That it was nothing but the sheerest intolerance that drove the Bogomiles

to welcome Turkish rule in Bosnia is conclusively shown by the different

attitude adopted by their co-religionists of Herzegovina. This can be

accounted for by no ties of personal loyalty to the reigning Duke.

Stephen’s whole career might well have inspired the most vehement

repugnance among subjects more tolerant to human weakness than is

the wont of Puritans. Stephen Cosaccia was by all accounts a selfish

voluptuary, careless of religion, described as fickle as the wind, and

reckless as he was ambitious. He had seized his son’s wife, a beautiful

Florentine, and when his son and the outraged Duchess saved themselves

from perpetual insult by taking shelter within the hospitable walls of

Ragusa, had brought disasters on the land by his insolent pretensions.

The Ragusans, indignant at his demand for the extradition of the

fugitives, his claims on part of their territory, his raising the

salt-tax, did not content themselves with impeaching their rebellious

senator of high treason, but invaded Herzegovina, took his treasure

castle of Blagai and ducal city of Mostar, and hardly needed the double

intervention of Pope and Sultan to reduce him to an humiliating peace

and the payment of a war indemnity. Stephen Cosaccia changed his creed

with as much facility as he changed his consort. In the beginning of his

reign, when Bosnian kings leaned to Bogomilism, it had suited his policy

to bid for Papal favour and raise his County into a Duchy by playing the

part of a faithful son of the Church. But when the King of Bosnia had

made his peace with Rome, when all hopes that he may have cherished of

placing the Bosnian crown upon his own head were finally dashed, when

further a Papal legate had presided at that diet of Coinica by which

his dependence on the Bosnian kingdom was formally cemented, Stephen

Cosaccia began to think that, after all, more might be gained by fishing

in the troubled waters of Puritan disaffection. He veered round once

more and henceforth poses as the protector of the oppressed Bogomiles

of Bosnia. When the persecutions of Stephen Tomašević drove 40,000 of

these sectaries from the kingdom, they found a refuge in the duchy;

and, neither for the first nor the last time in history, a tyrant and a

libertine became the acknowledged patron of Puritans and levellers.

Thus, when Mahomet turned his arms against Herzegovina, the Bogomiles

showed their gratitude to their ducal benefactor, by rising _en masse_

in his defence. They occupied the mountain passes, and while the craven

Stephen shut himself up in his capital Mostar, and drowned his anxieties

in his usual dissipation, his brave Puritan adherents kept the Turks at

bay on the frontier. One pass, however, had remained unoccupied. The

Turks burst through it and beleagured the ducal city. The Bogomiles,

however, still fought bravely, and made such successful sallies and flank

attacks upon the enemy that the Turk saw himself obliged to raise the

siege. The rest of the country, however, was overrun, many castles of

the Count of Popovo and Trebinje[116] taken, and this great magnate of

the duchy slain. The Duke saw himself forced to raise his tribute and

send his son Stephen as a hostage to the Sultan. Two years later, in

1466, Stephen Cosaccia died, and his duchy was shared by his two sons,

Ladislav, who inherited the ducal title, and Vlatko. But Herzegovina

had only gained a respite from complete subjugation.[117] Twenty years

after the overthrow of the Bosnian kingdom, in 1483, the Beglerbeg of

Bosnia fell upon the Duchy of St. Sava, the two Christian princes were

dispossessed, and the whole country incorporated in the Sandjakate of

Bosnia. A renegade member of the ducal house, that Stephen whom the first

duke had sent as a hostage to Mahomet, rose under the name of Ahmed Pashà

to be grand vizier, and is known in Turkish annals as Herzekoglu.[118]

Amidst the universal ruin, the wife of the last lawful king of Bosnia,

Stephen Thomas, is singled out by the grandeur of her misfortunes, and

I have been tempted to collect a few details which may shed some halo

of romance round the unhappy Catharine. After the murder of her husband

by his bastard son Stephen and her brother Radivoj, Queen Catharine

had lingered near his tomb in the Church of St. John at Sutisca, the

burial-place of Bosnian kings, sheltered in the adjoining convent which

her own and her husband’s piety had reared,[119] and doubtful whether

most to fear her husband’s murderer or the terrible Sultan, who was

advancing, avowedly, to avenge her. In the sacristery of the Convent

of Sutisca, the Franciscan monks still treasure an antique picture, in

which Christ appears in person to the kneeling king Stephen Thomas; and

legend says that it was in the monastery of his rearing that this vision

befell the husband of Queen Catharine. Here, amidst all these sad and

solemn memories, the widowed queen was engaged in embroidering some

sacred vestments, when the news of the rapid advance of Mahomet, perhaps

the sudden betrayal of the royal stronghold of Bobovac itself, only five

miles distant, startled her from her pious task. In the sacristery of

Sutisca, with the picture of King Thomas, the Franciscan monks showed

long afterwards[120] ‘a stole and a part of a chasuble embroidered in

gold threads by a needle in a wonderful way, and delectable to the sight,

which is said by immemorial tradition to have been the handiwork of Queen

Catharine, the wife of King Thomas, who sleeps at Rome, and which she

left unfinished when she fled.’

She, a woman of delicate health, the widowed Queen of Bosnia, the

daughter of the Duke of St. Sava, on her mother’s side[121] tracing her

lineage from the imperial race of the Comneni, fled away on foot through

the passes of the Dinaric Alps, down the valley of the Narenta, across

the inhospitable limestone desert that stretches, now as then, between

her father’s stronghold of Mostar and the sea, to Stagno, the old seaport

of Bosnia. There she found a small boat, which carried her across the

gulf to the hospitable haven of Ragusa. At Ragusa she seems to have

resided several years; but in 1475[122] she set forth on her pilgrimage

once more, and passed the closing years of her life in the shelter of a

Roman convent, distinguished by her charitable works, her meekness, and

the patience with which she bore her misfortunes,[123] but haunted even

there by the craven conduct of her son Sigismund, who had renegaded to

the creed of Mahomet. In 1477 Queen Catharine died, and was buried in

the Church of the Virgin of Ara Cœli, in which by her orders a monument

was reared to her memory.[124] There, beside the feudal escutcheons of

her husband’s kingdom and her father’s principality, on a foreign soil,

and in a Roman sanctuary, reposes, as is fitting, the effigy of the

exiled Queen of Bosnia, the last monument of the feudal kingdom, and of a

dynasty essentially alien to the people over whom it ruled.

After her death two of her family appeared before Pope Sextus IV., and

presented to him her will, in which she bequeathed her kingdom of Bosnia

to the Holy Roman Church; adding, however, the condition that if her son

should return from the Turks, ‘and the vomit of Mahomet,’ he should be

restored to his father’s throne. As a token, her representatives handed

over the Sword of the Realm, and the Royal Spurs, ‘which the Pontiff

benignantly received, and ordered them to be placed, with the will, in

the Apostolic archives.’[125]

Meanwhile Mathias Corvinus was taking more effectual measures to recover

at least a part of Bosnia for Christendom and Hungary. Within three

months after the execution of Stephen Tomašević he had taken the field,

and in a short time recovered twenty-seven cities with almost the same

rapidity as that of Mahomet’s conquest. The whole of lower Bosnia,

including what is now Turkish Croatia, the valley of the Verbas, the

Bosnian Possávina, the old Bosnian Banats of Ussora and Podrinia, were

for a while recovered.[126] In Jaycze the spirit of the citizens had not

been utterly crushed out even by the rigour of Mahomet and the Janissary

tribute. Wifeless and childless for the most part, her burghers had not

lost the hopes of vengeance and recovered liberty: they called on the

Magyars to deliver them, and after a seventy days’ siege the Turkish

garrison yielded to the combined efforts of the besieging army and

the citizens within. The great stronghold of the realm now received

a Hungarian governor, and was forthwith made the capital of the new

Banat of Jaycze, or as Mathias called it, to preserve the _jus_ of the

Hungarian Crown, the titulary kingdom of Bosnia.[127]

The ancient city of Jaycze, which now for many years becomes the Ilion

of Turk and Hungarian, and the bulwark of the Christian world, derives

its name, it is said, from its resemblance in form to an egg, the Bosniac

word for which is _Jaica_,[128] and it has thus been compared with the

Neapolitan fortress Castello del Ovo, reared by the Normans. Its high

walls are still to be seen, rising on a rocky height at the confluence of

the Pliva and Verbas; and during the days of the Bosnian kingdom it was

recognised as the capital of the realm, sharing with Bobovac the honour

of being the favourite residence of the Bosnian kings. Nor did Jaycze

owe this royal preference solely to an almost impregnable position. As a

pleasance the site is equally alluring, being environed by some of the

most romantic mountain and forest scenery in the country, and overlooking

not only the one Bosnian lake, but a waterfall which may compare with

those of Norway. Here rose the Minorite convent of St. Catharine,

enriched by many indulgences, obtained from Rome by the namesake of the

saint, the Queen whose melancholy fortunes we have just been tracing;

and here, after the fall of Constantinople, the body of St. Luke (the

greatest glory of Bosnia’s latter days!) had found shelter till the

invasion of Mahomet, when pious hands succeeded in transporting it to

Venice. There it was deposited by the Doge Cristoforo Moro in the Church

of St. Job: to the no small scandal of the neighbouring city of Padua,

which possessed a rival trunk of the Evangelist.

The history of Bosnia now centres around the fortifications of Jaycze.

The city was again and again besieged by Mahomet and Bajazet; but the

citizens, amongst whom we learn were a large number of Bogomiles,[129]

showed that, when under the inspiration of a sovereign like Mathias,

they knew how to fight, and, while the town held out, Hungarian armies

inflicted disastrous defeats on the Turks under its walls. In 1520 two

generals of Sultan Solyman II., the Bey of Semendria and the Pashà of

Turkish Bosnia, inflicted the severest blow on the Banat of Jaycze that

it had yet experienced. The great stronghold of Zvornik, the key of the

Podrinia, fell into the hands of the Turks, owing to the carelessness of

the governor, who had failed to provision it; and two other important

fortresses yielded to the panic, one Sokol, the other the rock citadel

of Tešanj,[130] the key of the province of Ussora. Jaycze, however, at

that time had for governor a stout old soldier, Peter Keglević, who had

received wounds at Terentzin, and the successful defence of this city

under his guidance is the last and perhaps the most romantic episode in

the annals of Christian Bosnia.

The Turks, finding all their efforts to take the city by open assault

futile, had planned a night surprise, and, to disarm the suspicions of

the governor, had retired out of sight of the city, as if to raise the

siege. But Keglević, who perhaps obtained his information from renegades

in the Pashà’s army, was made aware by means of his spies that the Turks

were constructing a large number of ladders. The governor accordingly

doubled the watch on the walls, lining them, where they were too low,

with foot soldiers; and was shortly made aware, by the same secret

sources of information, that the retreating Turks had doubled round, and,

making their way by stealth among the mountains and under cover of the

forest, were encamped in a retired gorge not far from the town, intending

to assault the walls by a sudden escalade in the hours before dawn. Peter

showed himself quite equal to the occasion, and told off immediately

a picked body of a hundred men to take their stand in the rear of the

Turkish ambush, with orders to fall on the infidels at a signal given

from a gun-shot.

Nor were Keglević’s resources exhausted by this stratagem. It happened

to be the eve of a feast-day, when the women and maidens of the town

would in times of security go forth, as they still do through the length

and breadth of Bosnia, to dance and sing on the forest lawns. Old Peter

called the girls and merry wives of Jaycze around him, and bade them

at earliest dawn to go forth, as if no foe were nigh, into the King’s

Mead,[131] as the meadowland about the town was known long afterwards,

and sing and play their shrillest—disarming their fears by telling them

that he would be at hand to help them.

Meanwhile the Turks, astir before sunrise for their planned attack, were

shouldering their ladders for the escalade—when the distant sounds of the

festal songs, and the Sclavonic dance-music, the plaintive note of the

Ghuzla, and the shrill piping of the Svirala, broke the silence of the

still morning air; and peering down between the forest trunks they espied

by the first faint light of dawn the maidens of Jaycze tripping the

light fantastic toe right merrily on the green slopes opposite. This was

enough! Down fall the ladders from their backs, and forwards scurry the

warriors, forgetful of everything but the sirens across the valley. Old

Keglević saw his opportunity, and sallying forth from the city, attacked

them with a picked body of men, while the ambushed horsemen, true to

the signal, swept down upon their rear. The Turks, in utter confusion,

distracted by the double onslaught, surprised, perhaps scarcely armed,

offered no resistance, and were cut down almost to a man.

The Pashà, furious at this disaster, attacked Jaycze shortly afterwards

with an army of 20,000 men, a long train of siege material, and eight

cannon of large calibre;[132] but Keglević held out, and Frangepani

advancing with an army of 16,000 men, defeated the Pashà and compelled

him to raise the siege. Seven years, however, after his splendid

defence of Jaycze, the brave old governor resigned his command, and

his successor, a careless and unwarlike man, lost the fortress almost

immediately. On the surrender of Jaycze in 1527 the remaining towns of

the Banat opened their gates to the Turks, and the whole of Bosnia to the

Save passed irrecoverably into the hands of the Sultan.

That the change was much regretted even by the Catholic population of

the country may be doubted. The history of the Hungarian Banat of Jaycze

is indeed less stained with religious persecutions than that of the

earlier kingdom, but much of that feudal tyranny which had contributed

in no unimportant manner to the conquest of Mahomet was still at work to

alienate the wretched Bosnian peasants. We have the convincing testimony

of an eyewitness, and a Doctor of the Roman Catholic University of

Bologna, that the rule of the Moslem was at this time looked upon as

less oppressive than that of the petty Christian Bans and Barons. ‘The

Bosniacs,’ says Montalbano, ‘are not so badly treated by the Turks, but

that those subject to Christian rule are not worse oppressed by their

own lords. And I myself have often seen no small multitude of country

people, having burnt their own houses in their despair, flee with their

wives and children and cattle and all that they possessed, to the country

under Turkish rule, for as much as the Turk extorteth little, save the

tithe. And therefore has it happened oftentimes that our armies in the

last Hungarian wars, when they have crossed the Ottoman border, find not

the Christian countrymen who, as they supposed, would be their friends

and helpers; or if so be they found them, they were hid in nooks, or

intent upon their flight; for no sufficient prohibition against outrages

and robberies is possible with the army. They think themselves well

off if haply their property and the honour of their women be left them

uninjured; whereas with the Turks, by reason of their great obedience,

these securities can be readily obtained.’[133]

Several desultory attempts have since been made on the part of the

Hapsburgs to recover it: by the Markgrave Ludwig of Baden, in 1688; by

Prince Eugene, in 1697, who pushed on as far as Bosna Serai itself, but

gained nothing by his hasty dash; and again in 1736 by the imperial

troops under the Prince of Saxe-Hildburghausen, which ended in the utter

rout of the Austrian army, amounting, it is said, to 80,000 men, and such

complete discomfiture, that Ali Pashà could boast that ‘not a hoof of

them was left behind.’[134] In 1790 Marshal Laudon took a few places in

Bosnia, but the French Revolution put a stop to these operations, and all

the towns captured in Bosnia were restored by the peace of Sistov.[135]

These later efforts may show that though the Emperor-King had resigned

his claim over Bosnia by the peace of Passarovitz in 1718, Austria, in

the last century at all events, had not resigned all hopes of recovering

the old fief of the Hungarian Crown.

There are very few materials[136] at hand for the history of Bosnia

after the Turkish conquest, and we have little but theories to explain

the extraordinary process of renegation which immediately set in, and

which has given us a Sclavonic race of Mahometans. From the earliest

days of the conquest the Turks inaugurated the policy of allowing all

those natives who would accept the religion of Islâm to retain their

lands and belongings, and we hear at once of a son of the King of Bosnia

and another of the Duke of St. Sava turning Mahometan. It is certain

that though the Catholic faction among the nobility was still powerful,

a large number of even the highest rank in Bosnia were infected with

the Bogomilian heresy; and it is probable that many rightful heirs of

ancient houses had been dispossessed for heretical opinions by the

dominant Romish caste, and were willing to recover their honours by at

least nominally abjuring their religion. By most, perhaps, the renegation

was intended to be only temporary; they ‘bowed in the house of Rimmon’

merely to retain their honours. Not a few of these renegade families have

preserved even to the present day many of their old Christian and perhaps

heretical observances; and it is whispered that there are still members

of the old Bosnian aristocracy only waiting for a favourable opportunity

to abjure Islâm. With the bulk of the people the desire of lording it

over their former Romish oppressors would often outweigh every religious

consideration. It has been hinted already that the Puritans of Bosnia

might find little repugnant to them in the service of the mosques, and

we may perhaps suspect that the Manichæism which looked on Christ as one

Æon, might accept Mahomet as another. Certain it is that a large part of

the population of Bosnia went over to Mahometanism, and those who would

deny that the majority of the converts belonged to the persecuted sect of

the Bogomiles, must account for the curious diminution since the Turkish

conquest of the heretics who immediately before it formed, as far as we

can judge, the majority, certainly the most influential portion, of the

population.

Strange as seems the comparative disappearance of the Bogomilian

religion since the Turkish conquest, throughout a large part of Bosnia

and Herzegovina, the more minutely we enquire into Bosnian history the

less insoluble does the problem appear. On the whole, the disappearance

of the Bosnian Protestants was not so much due to voluntary renegation,

though that played its part, as to a cause which I have already hinted

at. In the days of the Bosnian kingdom the strength of these sectaries

lay in the towns; and it was on the towns that the hand of the Turk

fell heaviest. The citizens of Jaycze, and Jaycze was then a peculiar

stronghold of the Bogomiles, like those of Kliuć, and like those of the

other fenced cities throughout the land, saw their children snatched from

them, to be forcibly converted to Islâm, and to return as Janissaries

and Mahometans to claim their heritage. Nay, more, we have the direct

evidence of an eyewitness and contemporary that the Janissaries were

largely recruited from the children of the Bogomiles.[137] At the end of

the fifteenth and in the sixteenth century there were still Bogomiles

in Bosnia; but how many of them were wifeless and childless! We have

historic proofs that the Bogomiles who existed in Jaycze in 1478 had

lost their heirs; their children were already Moslemized;—how many, we

may ask, outlived that generation? and how few could have survived the

consequences of the second captivity of Jaycze in 1527! In Herzegovina,

where at the moment of Turkish conquest the Bogomiles were proportionally

more numerous, and where their attitude, in contradistinction to their

Turcophile manifestations in Bosnia, had been one of open defiance to the

conqueror, their calamity must have been even more overwhelming; and if

the Turks bore so hardly on their Jayczan benefactors, what mercy could

have been meted to the Bogomilian defenders of Mostar?[138]

Whatever were the favouring causes of this wide-spread renegation, its

effect has been to afford us the unique phenomenon of Mahometan feudalism

and the extraordinary spectacle of a race of Sclavonic Mahometans.

This must be borne in mind at the present moment, for nothing is more

liable to confuse the questions at issue than to look on the Mussulman

inhabitants of Bosnia and the Herzegovina as _Turks_. Conventionally,

perhaps, one is often obliged to do so, and I must plead guilty in this

respect in the course of this work. But it should always be remembered

that, with the exception of a handful of officials and a certain

proportion of the soldiery, the Mahometan inhabitants of Bosnia and the

Herzegovina are of the same race as their Christian neighbours, speak the

same Serbian dialect, and can trace back their title-deeds as far. It is

a favourite delusion to suppose that the case of Bosnia finds a parallel

in that of Serbia; that here, too, an independent Christian principality

could be formed with the same ease, and that the independence of Bosnia

has but to be proclaimed for the Mussulman to take the hint and quit the

soil, as he has already quitted the soil of Serbia.

But, as I have said, the cases of the two provinces are altogether

different; in Serbia the Mahometans were an infinitesimal minority of

Osmanlì foreigners, encamped; in Bosnia, on the contrary, they are native

Sclaves, rooted to the soil, and forming over a third of the population.

Under whatever government Bosnia passes, it is safe to say that the

Mahometans will still form a powerful minority, all the more important

from having possession of the towns.

Nor must we omit another characteristic which marks off the Christian

Bosniacs from their Serbian neighbours. As Bosnia of old was the

debateable ground between the Roman Catholics and the Bogomiles, so,

to-day, she is distracted between the adherents of the Eastern and

Western Churches, who hate each other more cordially than the infidel.

It might have been thought that the disappearance of Bogomilism would

have resigned the country to the Catholics and Mahometans, for the

orthodox Greek element is conspicuous by its absence in the general

current of mediæval Bosnian history. But it was there nevertheless, and

in the eastern parts of the country was even then the dominant creed.

The conquest of Rascia by Tvartko I. brought a Greek province under the

Bosnian sceptre, and though the Bosnian hold on Rascia was slight, the

Greek Metropolitan appears at the Conventus of Coinica among the great

magnates of the realm. Since the Turkish conquest the Sandjakate of

Rascia or Novipazar has been incorporated in the Vilajet of Bosnia, and

by this means alone a large Greek-Church element has been added to the

present province. Nor, if we consider the history of Bosnia since the

Turkish conquest, is it difficult to trace the process by which even

in Bosnia proper and the Herzegovina, the Eastern Church has risen to

a dominant position. The Roman Catholics of Bosnia have at different

times during the last three centuries migrated in large numbers into

Dalmatia, Croatia, and Slavonia, where they found shelter among their

co-religionists, and it appears that the Greek population to the

South and East, who had less temptation to cross the borders of Latin

Christendom, have largely colonized the country thus vacated.[139] The

Roman Catholic population who remained, their ecclesiastical organization

broken up by these migrations, must in many cases have been absorbed in

the congregation of the intrusive Serbs, and indeed, as has been already

pointed out, the Roman Church in Illyria was to a great extent only Roman

in its higher organization.

The extraordinary phenomenon that presents itself in the history of

Bosnia under Turkish rule, is that till within the last few years it

has been simply the history of the feudal Kingdom, under altered names

and conditions. A Mahometan caste has tyrannised in place of a Popish—a

Turkish Vizier has feebly represented the Suzerainty of the Osmanlì Grand

Signior, just as of old we find Hungarian Bans or Kings representing the

Overlordship of a Magyar King. The survival of the feudal nobility has

been perfect. The great Bosnian lords, now calling themselves Begs or

Capetans, resided still in the feudal castles reared by their Christian

ancestors; they kept their old escutcheons, their Sclavonic family

names, their rolls and patents of nobility inherited from Christian

Kings; they led forth their retainers as of old under their baronial

banners, and continued to indulge in the chivalrous pastime of hawking.

The common people, on the other hand, have clung to their old Sclavonic

institutions, their sworn brotherhoods, their village communities, their

house-fathers; and have paid, and pay still, the same feudal dues to

their Mahometan lords as they did to their Christian ancestors.

But though in political affairs, language, and customs, so much of the

Præ-Turkish element has survived—though there are still to be found

many secret observances of Christian rites among Mahometans in high

places,—it would be a grievous error to suppose that the influence of

Islâm is superficial in Bosnia, or that their religious convictions are

not deep-rooted. On the contrary, the Sclavonic Mahometans of Bosnia,

occupying an isolated corner of the Sultan’s dominions, have not been

so liable to those external influences which at Stamboul itself have

considerably modified the code of true believers. The Bosniac Mussulmans

have had their religious antagonism perpetually roused by wars with the

unbelievers who compass them round about; they, more than the Levantine

Moslems, have borne the brunt of the long struggle with Christendom.

Add to this what the reader will have already perceived, that in Bosnia

fanaticism is an inheritance from Christian times; that the renegaded

Bogomiles have inherited the hatred they bear to the Christian rayah

both of the Eastern and Romish Churches, from the days when these rival

sectaries persecuted them without mercy.

Thus it is that Bosnia is the head-quarters of Mahometan fanaticism,

and that when, at the beginning of this century, Sultan Mahmoud II.

endeavoured to introduce his centralising innovations and reforms into

Bosnia, which also promised the Christians a certain amount of religious

liberty, he found himself opposed here not only by the feudal caste,

who rallied round the Janissaries, but by a race of Mahometans whose

religion had assumed a national character of a more fanatical hue than

was fashionable in the capital. The wars between the Giaour Sultan, as

the Bosniac Mussulmans contemptuously called the head of their faith, and

his refractory vassals, have been described by Ranke,[140] and need not

be dwelt on here. It was not till 1851 that Omer Pashà finally succeeded

in breaking the resistance of Mahometan feudalism in Bosnia, and

re-subjugated the country for the Sultan. Since that date the privileges

of the native nobility have been greatly curtailed, and Sclavonic

Mussulman and Sclavonic Christian alike have bowed before a new Osmanlì

bureaucracy.

That the state of the country has not improved since that date may

perhaps be gathered from the following pages. That at the moment of

Omer Pashà’s conquest some good was done by breaking the strength of

Bosnian feudalism, and setting a limit on the exactions of the native

Mahometan landholders, is undeniable. The most turbulent of the native

aristocracy were proscribed; the most galling of their feudal privileges

were taken from them, and the Christians who had helped the Osmanlì

in this second Turkish conquest of Bosnia received at the moment some

partial compensation at the expense of their former lords. But when the

Osmanlì ceased to garrison the country and prolonged his occupation

in a bureaucratic form, it lay in the very nature of things that he

should conciliate as far as possible those whose opposition was most

formidable to him, his co-religionists, namely, the Bosniac Mahometans.

Thus it is that since the period immediately succeeding Omer Pashà’s

conquest the state of the Christian population has suffered a relapse,

while in the Herzegovina, more especially, as I have shown elsewhere,

the tyranny of the old feudal caste has recrudesced, and the _misera

contribuens plebs_ of those countries has to bear a double burden of

extortion, from the landowner who represents the old régime and the

Turkish officials and middle-men who represent the new; so that now the

Christian rayah sees himself forced to serve two masters where he served

one before. The present Government of Bosnia consists of a small body of

foreign Osmanlì officials, speaking, in many cases, a language which is

unintelligible to the native Sclaves; ill educated, totally unable to

check the malpractices of their agents even when they themselves have

honest intentions. Though often, let it be said to their credit, less

bigoted themselves, they are altogether unable to place a restraint on

the fanaticism which is the sad characteristic of the native Mussulman,

and are well aware that, were they to attempt to introduce those reforms

which look so well on paper, the native Mussulmans would hound them out

of the country.

The more we examine the character of the Osmanlì government in Bosnia,

the more unstable, artificial and mischievous does it appear. The

centralization introduced by the ‘New Turks’ has struck at the roots

of many of the most promising elements which Bosnia had inherited from

the past, and the substitution of the authority of Osmanlì _préfets_, in

the place of the old municipal councils of the towns, may be cited as

a single example of the mischievous tendency of these innovations. The

chief argument of those who wish to see the rule of the Osmanlìs upheld

in Bosnia is that they act as a police to keep the peace between the

warring elements of the native population. It would not be difficult to

cite isolated instances where the Osmanlì has acted this part, and some

will be found in the following pages; but it will be found, as a rule,

that the Turkish rulers in Bosnia never put themselves out to control

the Mahometan element of Bosnia, except when under the surveillance of

European Consuls, or in their dealings with Franciscan monks, who are

virtually Austrian officials. On the whole, it would be more true to

say that the Osmanlì has prolonged his rule in Bosnia by playing on the

jealousies of castes and creeds.

The Osmanlì government in Bosnia is, and has been, a government of

_finesse_. It has no elements of stability about it, and nothing has

been more prominently brought out by the present insurrection than its

utter impotence. The foreign bureaucracy in Bosnia has seen itself

haughtily thrust aside by the native Mahometans. Its manœuvres have

utterly failed to conciliate the one class whose affections they were

designed to seduce, and at the present moment there is one point on which

the Mahometans and Christians of Bosnia are both agreed, and that is in

abhorrence of the rule of the Osmanlì. Nor should it be overlooked that

two of the greatest evils that at present afflict Bosnia are intimately

bound up with the continuance of Turkish rule. One is the use of the

Osmanlì language in official documents and in the law-courts; the other

is the direct contact into which Bosnia is brought with the corruption of

Stamboul. It is impossible that the rayah should secure justice in the

law-courts, or at the hands of the government officials and middle-men,

when his case or the contract into which he enters with the tax-farmers

must be drawn up in a language utterly unintelligible to him, and by

the hands of those who are interested in perverting the instrument of

the law to injustice and extortion. It is impossible that the material

resources of Bosnia, magnificent as they are, should be developed to

the good of her civilization, while the enterprise of Europe has first

to satisfy what is insatiable—the avarice of the Divan. The Bosniacs

themselves are still blessed with many of the virtues of a primitive

people, and left to themselves might secure honesty and justice in their

public officers. At present the Bosnian _employés_ must first learn their

Osmanlì language, and imbibe the secrets of Osmanlì government, at the

source and seminary of Turkish demoralization; and the alien bureaucracy

which results, acts in Bosnia as a propaganda of corruption.

Why not then sever a connection as malign as it is artificial? Why not

divorce Stamboul from Bosnia, and erect an independent State under an

European guarantee? The democratic genius of the people would suggest

a Republic as the best form of government, but the divided state of

the country would preclude such a government to begin with, and a

Principality after the model of free Serbia might combine Parliamentary

government with the coherence of a monarchy.

When it is recognised by what an extremely precarious tenure the Porte

holds Bosnia at present, and it is remembered that the chief aim of

the native Mahometans, as of the native Christians, is Provincial

Independence, even Englishmen may be inclined to accept the conclusion

that the present connection between Bosnia and the hated government

of the Osmanlì must be severed; the more so as the geographical

configuration and position of Bosnia—a peninsula connected only with the

rest of Turkey by a narrow neck—make it almost impossible to hold out

against a serious invasion, and put it always at the mercy of foreign

agitators.

Such a revolution may seem an Utopian dream; but when the purely

artificial character of the present government of Bosnia is realized,

it would be an impertinence to the confederate statesmanship of Europe

to suppose that it was unable to effect it. For the moment, however,

the ultimate form of Bosnian government is a question of secondary

importance to the paramount necessity of re-establishing order in that

unhappy land. At the moment that I write this, nearly 3,000 Bosnian

and Herzegovinian villages and scattered hamlets are blackened ruins,

and over 200,000 Christian refugees are starving among the inhospitable

ravines of the Dalmatian Alps. In the interests of humanity, as well as

of European peace, in discharge of responsibilities which no adroitness

of European statesmanship can disavow, an armed occupation of Bosnia by

civilized forces has become indispensable. When the Christian population

of Bosnia have been rescued from the grave that yawns before them, when

the robber bands of fanaticism have been disarmed, and the remnant of the

refugees enabled to return to what were once their homes; then it will be

time for the governments of civilized Europe to turn their energies to

securing the necessary reforms, and to re-establishing the administration

of the country on a sounder basis.

Discordant as are the political materials in Bosnia, fanatic as are

the Christians as well as the Mahometans, I feel convinced that there

exist elements of union in that unhappy country which might be moulded

together by wise hands. The wrongs of the Christians in Bosnia have

been intolerable, and I have shown my abhorrence of the present tyranny

with sufficient emphasis in the course of this book; but I may take

this opportunity of deprecating any sympathy with those who propose to

deal with the Mussulman population of Bosnia in a spirit of Christian

fanaticism. The whole history of Bosnia from the beginning has been

one long commentary on the evils of established religions. Whatever

terms the Great Powers may wish to impose on Bosnia and the Turks, let

England at all events exert her influence against any setting up of an

ecclesiastical tyranny. In the interests of all the warring creeds which

distract the country, let the secular character of the future government

be beyond suspicion. Let an European guarantee secure to the Mahometan

minority of Bosnia the free exercise of their religion and complete

equality before the law, and half the battle of conciliation will have

been won. But let it once be supposed that Greek popes under the tutelage

of Russia, or Franciscan monks under the patronage of the Apostolic

Monarchy which still sets at nought, in Tyrol, the first principles of

religious liberty, are to be allowed to lord it over the true believers;

once encourage the hopes of Christian bigotry and the fears of Islâm, and

the miserable struggle will prolong itself to the bitter end.

So far indeed from the sway of Christian denominationalism being in

any sense possible in Bosnia, it must be frankly admitted, distasteful

as the admission may be to some, that if an autonomous or partially

autonomous state be established, a preponderating share in the

government, saving European control, must for many years remain in the

hands of the Mahometan part of the population. True that much of the

present oppression is due to them; but they are the only class in Bosnia

at present capable of holding the reins of government; they are more

upright, and certainly not more fanatically bigoted, than the Christian

Bosniacs. The weight of hereditary bondage cannot be shaken off in a

day, and the majority of the Christian population are still too ignorant

and cringing to govern their hereditary lords. True, that the Bosniac

Mahometans are a minority; but it must be remembered that the Christians

are divided into two sects, the Greek and the Latin, each of which

regards its rival with greater animosity than the Moslem; nor can there

be any reasonable doubt that, in the event of the establishment of a

representative Assembly, or Bosnian ‘_Sbor_’, the Mahometans would secure

the alliance of the Roman Catholic contingent, and would by this means

obtain a working majority.

European surveillance is in any case an absolute necessity for securing

the introduction of reforms, but there are no other conditions more

favourable to its successful working than those above indicated. To

reinforce the government of the Osmanlì would of all solutions be the

most deplorable. It would be to give a new lease of life to all that

is worst in the present state of Bosnia. It would be a gage of future

anarchy and a perpetuation of corruption. I have far too much confidence

in the shrewdness of the Oriental mind to suppose for a moment that the

desired reforms would not be temporarily introduced under the eyes of

Europe. But the instant that supervision was removed, the instant that

the forces necessary for the enforcements of the reforms were withdrawn,

the Osmanlì government in Bosnia would relapse into what it is at

present,—a foreign bureaucracy, which, powerless to support the Sultan’s

authority against the Conservative opposition of native Mussulmans, is

reduced to pander to it. The old game of playing with the antagonisms of

castes and creeds would be revived, the reforms would disappear one by

one, and the smouldering elements of Christian discontent would once more

burst forth in a conflagration, which might eventually light up the ends

of Europe.

The great difficulty that statesmen have to contend with at the present

moment is how to obtain certain elementary securities for the honour and

property of an oppressed class of ignorant peasants, in the teeth of a

haughty and oppressive ruling caste. To reverse the positions of serf

and lord would be impossible. To bolster up a Christian government in

the country, and after depriving the dominant caste of what it considers

its hereditary dues, and stripping it of part of its possessions, to

place it forcibly beneath the yoke of those whom it despises as slaves

and abominates as idolaters, would need more supervision than Europe

would be willing to accord; nor is it likely that anything short of

perpetual armed occupation would succeed in enforcing such reforms, or in

preventing the prolongation of an exterminating civil war.

It is then of primary necessity to conciliate the Mahometan caste of

landlords and retainers, still hungering for abolished feudal privileges,

and the Mahometan bourgeoisie of the towns, who in days of bureaucratic

centralization sigh for their municipal privileges suppressed by the

Osmanlì. And such a means of reconciling the Mahometan population of

Bosnia to the new order of things can be found,—by sacrificing the

Osmanlì. Turn out the sowers of Bosnian discord. Do not prevent the

Mahometan gentry from taking that position in the country to which by

their territorial possessions, according to English ideas, they are

entitled. Let a native magistracy succeed the satellites of a foreign

bureaucracy; revive the civic institutions of the towns, and the

native Begs and Agas, as well as the descendants of the old municipal

_Starescina_, will be only too glad to come to terms with the Great

Powers.

The dominant caste in this way compensated, European supervision,

of whatever kind, would work with at least a possibility of success

in introducing the necessary reforms; nor, the period of probation

concluded, and European control removed, is there any need for taking

the pessimist view that the government of Bosnia would lapse into the

‘autonomy of a cock-pit.’ In the very nature of things the present

difficulties have brought the worst and most fanatical elements of Bosnia

to the surface, and in face of the ferocious deeds of Bosnian Ahmed Agas

and their feudal train of murderous Bashi Bazouks, the more sensible

and kindly side of Bosnian Mahometanism is liable to be overlooked. I

have already observed that it is wrong for Christians to build too great

expectations on the fact that many of the Mahometan nobles of Bosnia

still preserve some of their old Christian practices, and on occasion

take Franciscan monks as their ghostly advisers. Still the fact remains,

to show that from some points of view they are not irreconcilable, and

that the gulf between Christianity and Islâm is not so wide among the

more educated classes as it is no doubt among the town-rabble. The most

influential Christian in the whole country, Bishop Strossmayer, whose

liberalism commands European esteem, stands on a most friendly footing

with many of the leading Mahometan families in Bosnia, and when he visits

his Bosnian diocese has the satisfaction of seeing true-believers flock

to hear his sermons.[141] The brutal contempt of the Mahometan lord

for the rayah is by no means universal, and even in Herzegovina, he at

times so far conforms to the kindly democratic usage of the race as to

address his Christian serf as _brat_ or brother.[142] A few years ago

the native aristocracy of Bosnia showed by its secret negotiations with

the Serbian government that at a pinch it was not altogether averse to

making common cause with the Giaour. In the rural districts of Bosnia and

the Herzegovina religious animosity has never been so embittered as in

the towns. I have myself seen the tombs of the departed Christians and

the departed Moslems of a Herzegovinian village gathered together in the

same God’s acre, and separated only by a scarcely perceptible path. In

many parts the Mahometan peasants have suffered almost as much oppression

as their Christian neighbours, and during the present insurrection

there have been instances in which they have made common cause with the

Christian rayah.

If this religious antagonism can once be overcome, there seem to be

many hopeful elements left us even in Bosnia. The temperament of the

Southern Sclaves is preëminently kindly and easy-going, and nothing

but the interested wiles of the Osmanlì, to whom Bosnian union meant

his own expulsion, could have checked the development of a spirit of

toleration. We have in Bosnia a common language and a common national

character born of the blood; and that national character, whatever may

be said to the contrary, is not prone to revolution. It is slow, it is

stubborn, it is not easily roused, and it possesses a fund of common

sense which has led a keen French observer to compare the Serbian genius

with the English.[143] The Bosniacs are of a temperament admirably fitted

for parliamentary government, and what is more, owing to their still

preserving the relics of the free institutions of the primitive Sclaves,

they are familiar with its machinery. In their family-communities, in

their village councils, the first principles of representative government

are practised every day. Orderly government once established by the

commanding influence which powerful neighbours could exercise for

pacification if they chose, the development of the natural resources of

the country would follow as a matter of course. I have elsewhere alluded

to the fact that, besides supplying the Romans and the Ragusans in the

Middle Ages with incalculable wealth of gold and silver, the Bosnian

mountains are known to contain some of the richest veins of quicksilver

in Europe; that iron and other ores are abundant, and that the valley of

the principal river is one vast coal-bed. All these sources of wealth

and prosperity, and consequent civilization, are at present, as I show

elsewhere, inaccessible, owing simply to the corruption of Stamboul.

Besides such decentralizing reforms in the provincial constitution as

connect themselves with the discontinuance of the direct government of

the Osmanlì, it may be well to cite some of the more obvious measures

necessary to secure the order and well being of Bosnia. The present

insurrection, as I have been at some pains to point out, was in its

origin mainly agrarian, and no reform can be satisfactory which does

not secure the tiller of the soil a certain portion of it for himself.

The intolerance of all classes of the Bosnian population is the natural

offspring of the gross ignorance in which they are steeped, and it must

be confessed that the want of education is largely due to the clerical

character of the schools where they exist and to the malign teachings

of _odium theologicum_. ‘The result of the present system,’ says a

recent observer, ‘is evident and it is fatal. The Greek children under

the Higumen, the Catholics under the Franciscan priest, the Mussulmans

under the Ulema, go to school to learn to hate each other, and in fact

this is the only lesson which as men they take care to remember.’[144]

That a certain part of the revenues of the province should be set apart

for education of a purely secular kind is a crying necessity, and the

establishment of high schools at Serajevo, Travnik, Banjaluka, Mostar,

and other large towns under the auspices of the University of Agram,

but equally secular in their character, might be suggested as a good

way of remedying the want of higher culture. For the moral, as well as

the material, elevation of the rayahs of the Greek Church it is of the

highest importance that they should be liberated from the corrupt rule

of the Fanariote hierarchy, and it might be well to revive the national

Sclavonic patriarchate, not at Ipek but at Serajevo. To foster the

development of the great resources of the country, greater facilities for

obtaining concessions of mines should be accorded to foreign capitalists;

the completion of the Bosnian railway, and its junction with Roumelian

and Serbian lines, should be secured; and measures should be taken to

overcome the selfish financial policy of Austria, which shuts off Bosnia

and Herzegovina from the only two seaports, the narrow enclaves of Klek

and Sutorina, which still remain to them.

A few vigorous strokes like these levelled by the united strength of

Europe at the ignorance, bigotry, and industrial depression of this

unhappy land, could not long be without their result. It is a mistake

to suppose that Islâm really opposes itself to culture; and were the

means of obtaining a liberal education, free from the taint of Christian

bigotry, placed within the reach of the Mahometan Begs and burghers,

there is no reason to suppose that they would refuse their sons the

benefit of it.

On the whole, however, it is safe to assume that the influx of Western

civilization into Bosnia would tend to strengthen the Christian

element. The fatalistic temper of the Mahometan dominant caste cripples

their commercial energies. As the natural resources of the country

were developed, wealth would fall more and more into the hands of

the Christians, and the balance of political power would infallibly

incline in their favour. In the course of a generation they might

assume the reins of government, which, as I have pointed out, in

spite of their numerical superiority, they are at present incapable

of holding. The way would thus be paved for a closer union with the

Christian border-provinces of kindred blood, Serbia and Montenegro,

and Bosnia might ultimately form a province of a great South-Sclavonic

confederation, extending from the Black Sea to the Adriatic, which should

act as a constitutional bulwark against the encroaching despotism of the

North.

To suppose that the freedom of the Sclaves of the South, of the Bosniacs,

the Serbs of Old Serbia, and Bulgarians, will, when accomplished—and

sooner or later there is no doubt that it must be accomplished—add to

the strength of Russia, because in language they are somewhat similar,

is as if anyone should have opposed the liberation and unity of Italy on

the score that it would be aggrandizing France. If the French ever had

designs on Rome they are infinitely less likely to arrive at them now

than when an Austrian Archduke governed in Lombardy, and Bomba ruled at

Naples. Granted that the Russians have designs on Constantinople, are

they more likely to gain it from a decrepit Power which can scarcely hold

its own provinces, or from a new Power or Powers endued with all the

vigour of young nationality? To leave a country like Bosnia, isolated

from the rest of Turkey, surrounded by free States, to perpetuate

agitation within its borders, is only to weaken what remains of Turkey,

and to play into the hands of Russia. Cousinship is not always a gage of

amity; and the day, perhaps, is not far distant when the Sclavonic races

of the Balkan Peninsula will look upon Russia as their most insidious

foe.

BOSNIA AND THE HERZEGÓVINA.

CHAPTER I.

AGRAM AND THE CROATS.

Slovenization in Styria—Regrets of a Prussian—Agram—Her

Sclavonic Features, Hero, Art, and Architecture—Flowers

of the Market-place—Croatian Costume—Prehistoric Ornament

and Influence of Oriental Art—South Sclavonic Crockery,

Jewelry, and Musical Instruments—Heirlooms from Trajan or

Heraclius?—Venice and Croatia—Croatian Gift of Tongues—Lost

in the Forest—A Bulgarian Colony—On to Karlovac—The Welsh of

Croatia—Croatian Characteristics—Karlovac Fair—On the Outposts

of Christendom.

As the train from Vienna descends into the valley of the Drave a change

becomes perceptible in the scattered cottages and hamlets that fly

past us. The dark wooden chalets of the Semmering valleys, that recall

Salzburg and Tyrol and more distant Scandinavia, give place to meaner

huts, less roomy, lower, paler, more rectangular. Rich maroon-brown beams

that seem to have grown up with the pines around, dark projecting eaves

that overhang the time-stained fronts as the shadowy fir-branches the

primeval trunks—all these give place to wattle and daub and chilling

whitewash. The eaves are now less prominent; but if the houses are

comparatively browless, there is a pair of window eyelets under the

trilateral gable, and their physiognomy is recognised at once. These

are the huts you have seen far away on the Sclavonic outskirts of

Hungary. You have seen them dotted about Bohemia and the sandy plains

of Prussia; you have seen them magnified and embellished into the old

palaces of Prague. As we approach Marburg we are entering in truth

on another world—a Sclavonic tongue begins to be heard around. Those

mountain-chalets were the high water mark of the Germanic sea.

For the tide has turned. Marburg, a few years ago reckoned a German

town, is now almost entirely Slovenized. The tradesmen—nay, the

well-to-do classes themselves—speak Slovene in preference to German.

A fellow-traveller told me that since the Austro-Prussian war Slovene

instead of German had become the language of the schools. Cut off from

her German aspirations, the Austrian Government has seen the necessity

of making friends with the Sclavonic Mammon; and, as she distrusts those

members of the race who, like the Czechs and Croats, cherish memories of

independent kingship, her statesmen have cast about them for a Sclavonic

race free from any misguiding ‘Kronen-tradition,’ and have consequently

been exalting the horn of the Slovenes, who inhabit Southern Styria and

parts of Carinthia and Carniola, at the expense of the Germans of the

towns, and partly even of the Carniolan Wends, whose language is akin to

the Slovene. The painful impression produced by this turn of the tables

on the Germans—who look on Austria as a mere warming-pan for themselves

in Eastern Europe—is amusingly betrayed by a recent Prussian traveller,

Maurer, who visited Marburg in 1870. ‘Another ten years,’ says he, ‘and

Marburg will be as Slovenish as its immediate surroundings.... It was

extremely painful to me (äusserst peinlich) to see the children at

Steinbrück going to or coming from school with books in which the text

and objects were Slovene; although these little ones, even the smallest

of them, had our language at their fingers’-end so completely that they

seemed never to have spoken any other.... We must not spare ourselves

the realisation of the bitter truth that the greater part of Styria and

Carinthia, and the whole of Carniola, Gorizia, Gradisca, and Istria, with

the avenue to the Adriatic, are lost to us. Even supposing the whole

of Southern Germany to have been fused with Northern, and the German

element in Austria either under compulsion or of its free will to have

followed the already torn away Bohemia and Moravia’—(the Berliner looks

on the annexation of the Czech kingdom as a mere work of time)—‘even

then we should have neither the might nor the right—though it matters

less about the right (!)—to break forcibly through Illyria to the

Adriatic. And yet our dreaminess and disregard of the facts before us

made us look on Trieste and these former lands of the German Bund as our

inheritance.’[145]—These poor Prussians!

But the Slovenes are left behind—as the train hurries along the willowed

valley of the Save we find ourselves among a population less European

in its dress, and soon arrive at Agram, the capital of Croatia, where

we discover a fair hotel in the High Street. The aspect of the town at

once strikes the stranger as other than German. What are these long, low,

rectangular houses but slightly enlarged reproductions of the Sclavonic

cottage? Here is the same pervading pallor, the twin eyelet windows,

circular here, and pierced in the trilateral gables like owl-holes in an

old barn. The gables themselves—more modest than the generality of those

in Teutonic towns—seem to shrink from facing the street. Outside some of

the older houses is to be seen a wooden gallery, festooned perhaps with

flowers and creepers, on to which the room-doors open—it strikes one as

an approach to the Turkish verandah, the Divanhané. The headings over the

shops are almost entirely Sclavonic. Brilliant, quite Oriental, are the

stores where the gay Croatian costumes are hung out to tempt the passing

peasant. Picturesque are the windows, shut in by foliated bars and

gratings of efflorescent ironwork; strange, too, the doors and shutters,

crossed diagonally by iron bars of really artistic merit, decked at the

point of intersection by a heraldic rose, and the limbs of the Maltese

cross terminating in graceful fleurs-de-lys. Not that the object of all

these is primarily ornament. These quadruple bolts and locks, these

massive hinges and the holdfasts by them inside, which fit into sockets

as in our safes, and so prevent the door from being burst open by hacking

through the hinges from without—all these tell a different story. They

speak of times when the streets of Agram were not so secure as at present.

[Illustration: Croatian Clothes-shop, Agram.]

On an eminence rises the cathedral and spacious palace of the bishop,

enclosed, like so many churches of Sclavonic lands, in old walls with

round, cone-peaked towers—a southern Kremlin. Just below it is the

market-place, and in its centre the equestrian statue of the national

hero, the Ban Jellachitj, the poet-warrior who in the days of the Magyar

revolution led his Croats against their national enemy, and saved the

Austrian police-state when its fortunes were at their lowest ebb. He is

dressed in the picturesque hussar uniform of his country, with flowing

mantle and high-plumed cap, riding northwards on his pedestal, and

pointing his sword forwards towards the scenes of his triumphs over the

Magyars.

The town is divided into three parts, the lower town in which is the

market-place and main street, the height on which the cathedral stands,

and the upper town on which rise many large houses inhabited by the

resident bureaucracy, where is the Diet-hall, the Ban’s house and the

Museum, and looking down from whose airy terraces you see the lower town

stretched out like a straggling village below you, and are reminded

of the view of Buda from its Acropolis. The cathedral, in spite of

its bulwark of fortifications, has suffered much from the Turks, who

destroyed it, they say, three times; and inside from its own bishops,

who have defaced the gothic nave and aisles with whitewash and monstrous

Jesuitic shrines. Its exterior is, however, still partly fretted with

old stone panel-work, which recalls the Tudor ornamentation on the

schools of Oxford. From the top of the square tower expands a beautiful

panoramas—the silvery Save and its rich valley—the distant Bosnian

mountains fading into the blue sky; and in the other direction the dark

forest-covered heights of the Slema Vrh, which have given Agram her

Sclavonic name Zagreb—‘beyond the rocks.’ Except the cathedral, and

the finely-carved façade of the Marcus church, there are no buildings

of beauty or interest. The Ban’s residence was so completely devoid of

architectural pretensions, and so indistinguishable from the houses

round, that we should not have noticed it, but for a large black flag

thrust forth from one of its windows in honour of old Kaiser Ferdinand

the ‘good-natured.’ As is too generally the case in Hungary, the people

of Agram are far behind in æsthetic culture; the pictures in the Academy

here are few and curiously bad, and the one good painting was not by

a native, but a Czech artist. The Agramers, however, seem to have the

good taste to appreciate this, and photographic copies are to be seen in

the shop windows; rather, perhaps, owing to South Sclavonic patriotism,

than to respect for high art. The picture represents the funeral of a

Montenegrine Voivode or leader, whose body is being borne along a gloomy

mountain gorge from the battle-field; and the grandeur of the lifeless

hero, the dark, almost Italian look of the weeping clanspeople, are

executed with great fidelity to Czernagoran nature.

But living pictures, more artistic than the bronze statue of the Ban,

more graceful than the weeping Montenegrines, are around us here. The

market-place is a spacious studio. The beauty of the Croatian peasant

costume is almost unique in Europe—possibly only rivalled at Belgrade.

Seen from above, when the market-place is thronged, it looks almost

like a bed of red and white geraniums; it is these prevailing colours

which give the peasant groups a lightness and brilliancy which I have

seen nowhere else. What is remarkable is, that this brightness should be

shared in such equal proportions by men and women alike. In Serbia—even

in Turkey—the men are not so gay. The head-dress of the Serbian women

is perhaps at times more elegant—the colours of their dress are often

more varied; but what, after all, is a nosegay without a sufficiency of

white flowers? In the Agram market-place, not only the colours, but the

very materials, might have been chosen by an artist. What, indeed, is

the tissue of these diaphanous chemises and undulating kerchiefs, but

the mull muslin of our lay-figures? The women are, moreover, possessed

of such a faculty for throwing themselves into picturesque attitudes

that one would think they had a drop of Gipsy blood in their veins. In

such drapery, with such instincts, such taste in colours, what need have

they of novel modes?—they who have not yet improved away their form by

cuirasses of millinery—they who have none of the heavy shrouds of colder

climes to muffle them—whose simple fashions every breath of wind has

an art to change! The faces, too, are rarely vulgar; these are not the

coarse hoydens of a North-German market-place—on their features, in

their demeanour, one would fancy that many of them have inherited the

refinements of an older civilization; some soft Italian element, come

perhaps by way of Venice, descended perhaps from the old Roman cities of

these parts.

The head-dresses of these village ladies are varied, for every hamlet

has its speciality of costume. On some, from St. Ivan, the transparent

white kerchief falls about the bust and shoulders lightly as a bridal

veil; on others it takes a rosier hue, and is known as the _Rubac_. On

others, again, as those from Zagoria—who will have it that they are

great grand-daughters of Avars—it is drawn backwards over a long silver

pin, stuck horizontally across the hair, and depends over the back till

its variegated border and long fringe sweep the girdle. Seen from the

front this coiffure recalls that of the _Contadine_ of the Romagna.

In the summer months these peasants rarely put on their fur-fringed

mantles, which resemble those of Serb and Slavonian; sometimes they

wear a scarcely perceptible vest, but usually the sole covering of arms

and torso is simply a light homespun tunic with loose flowing sleeves

confined towards the wrist and then expanding again. In place of a

skirt they generally wear two wide overlapping aprons, one before and

one behind, which in a gale of wind may afford occasional studies for a

Bacchante! and over the front one of these hangs a narrower apron starred

with red asterisks, crossed by little zigzagging patterns, or by light

transversal bands of rose and lilac. But enough of such pallid hues! The

pride of their toilette is a brilliant crimson scarf, the _Pojas_, wound

round the waist, some of the folds of which are at times loosened and

hang down over the front apron in a graceful sling or outside pouch. Nor

does a single kirtle content them, magnificent as this is. Amongst all

the Illyrian Sclaves, south as well as north of the Save, I have noticed

this peculiarity, that they wear the two kirtles of classic antiquity.

Besides the zone round the waist, a bright scarlet fillet—the _Strophion_

of ancient nymphs and goddesses—is wound just below the bosom, and is

fastened with a bow in front as on the Thalia or Euterpè of the Vatican.

[Illustration: Croat Woman in the Agram Market.]

Round their necks hangs an array of what politeness would have me call

coral necklaces. Occasionally they wear silver ear-rings, silver

pendants on their breast, and rings on their fingers; but of gold and

silver jewelry they possess less than their neighbours beyond the Save;

the reason of this being the general absence of specie in the country,

which prevents them from studding their hair and tunic with glittering

coins—a habit which in Serbia alone withdraws some three-quarters

of a million from the currency. Many of them, especially the girls,

divide their hair into two long plaits, the ends of which they tie up

with brilliant ribbons; for the twin pigtails of maidenhood are far

more characteristically Sclave than German, and may be traced among

the Russians far away to the White Sea—indeed, this may well be one

of the tokens which betray the Sclavonic origin of so many soi-disant

Germans. For boots the Croat ladies either wear a curious kind of

sandal called _Opanka_, common to the men as well throughout the whole

Illyrian triangle, and not unlike the ancient Egyptian, made of gay

leather, red and yellow; or, must it be confessed?—they sometimes buskin

themselves in high-heeled Wellingtons! and though their aprons—one cannot

conscientiously speak of skirts—do not reach much below the knees, these

martial casings can hardly be looked on as a concession to prudery, for

after all they generally prefer to go about with feet and ankles in the

most graceful costume of all—that of Eden!

[Illustration: CROATIAN TYPES.

ST. IVAN. VLACH WOMAN FROM SLUIN. WOMAN AND CHILD FROM DRAGANIĆ. ZAGORJA.

VLACH MAN FROM SLUIN. SISZEK. MAN FROM NEAR AGRAM. LITTLE GIRL FROM

DOROPOLJA.]

To mention such very gorgeous gentlemen after the ladies really seems to

require some apology. Imagine some exotic insect—how else can the subject

be approached?—with forewings of dazzling gauzy white and underwings

of scarlet. The white tunic expands like wings about the arms, and

flutters from them in folds of gossamer; the bright scarlet vest—the

_Laibek_—studded like some butterfly with silver stars, is lightly closed

over the abdomen. These bright metallic knobs are generally arranged

crozier-wise in front, and on one side of the vest is a small pocket just

big enough to catch the corner of a rosy handkerchief—the same with which

the women are coifed—which on highdays hangs down and floats like a sash

about the flanks. A belt of varied leather-mosaic, called the _Remen_,

quaintly patterned like the Wallack belts, but not so broad, grasps

the tunic round the waist; and below this the tunic opens out again in

flowing petticoats, which often reach below the knees, but hardly to the

ankles, as those of some Syrmian peasants. A similar but narrower strip

of leather round the shoulder serves to suspend a woollen wallet of the

brightest scarlet tufted over with tassels; this supplies the want of

pockets, and is the inseparable companion of the Croat, insomuch that

every little boy is provided with a miniature _Torba_, as it is called.

Below the tunic expand loose trousers of the same homespun muslin,

flowing as those of the Phrygians of old or the Dacians of Trajan’s

Column, and sometimes terminating in a handsome fringe. The feet are

either shod with _Opankas_ or with Wellingtons, as the women’s, but are

more rarely bare.

When the weather is chilly, or when they are particularly desirous of

showing themselves off, a superb mantle—the _Surina_—is cast over the

shoulders, of a light yellowish ground-colour, decked with red, green,

or orange embroidery, sometimes of the most artistic devices. Sometimes

they are brown relieved with brilliant scarlet; but the real red mantles,

ground and all, occur only in the western regiments or divisions of the

Military Frontier, models of which are to be seen in the interesting

collection of national costumes in the Agram Museum, so that the old

German name for the Croats, _Rothmäntel_—‘Red-mantles’—is hardly

applicable to the whole race. There is another word to which Croatian

costume is said to have given birth with still less apparent foundation.

You may search the market-places in vain for anything approaching a

‘_cravat_,’ which is usually derived from _Krabaten_ or _Kravaten_, a

broad-Dutch word for Croats. But the high collars of these Croat mantles

may well have originated the word, though the signification from the

first seems rather to have been a bandage round the collar, or in place

of the collar, than the collar itself. For the fact that the word really

was taken from the Croats we have the evidence of Ménage, who lived at

the time of their first introduction into France. He says: ‘On appelle

_cravate_ ce linge blanc qu’on entortille à l’entour du cou, dont les

deux bouts pendent par devant; lequel linge tient lieu de collet. Et

on l’appelle de la sorte à cause que nous avions emprunté cette sorte

d’ornement des Croates, qu’on appelle ordinairement Cravates. Et ce

fut en 1636 que nous prismes cette sorte de collet des Cravates par le

commerce que nous eusmes en ce tans-là en Allemagne au sujet de la guerre

que nous avions avec l’Empereur.’ They are first mentioned in England

by Skinner, who died in 1667, who speaks of them as a fashion lately

introduced by travellers and soldiers. In Hudibras they are made to serve

as halters.[146]

Certainly the most European part of the present Croatian costume is the

black felt-hat, which oscillates between our broad-brim and what is

vulgarly known as a ‘pork-pie;’ but then the brim is used as a receptacle

for vasefuls of flowers, and is often surmounted by waving plumes, so any

such work-a-day resemblances are soon forgotten. Then there is another

variety of hat made of straw, with a conical peak, which recalls a more

distant parallel. When a Croat wears one of these, and perchance, as he

often does,[147] having doffed his belt, goes about in his long flowing

tunic and broad petticoat-like breeks, an uncomfortable feeling comes

over you that you have seen him before; and when you have searched the

remotest crannies of Europe in vain for his like, it suddenly flashes

upon you that it is no other than John Chinaman who stands before you!

Yes; there are the very peaks to his boots; there is the beardless face,

the long pendulous moustache, and in old days, when—as you may see by a

picture in the Museum—the Croat wore a pigtail, as his Dalmatian brothers

do still, a Celestial meeting him might have mistaken him for his double!

The patterns on these various articles of attire are striking in

character; they are hieroglyphics, hard to decipher, but long household

annals are written in them. I take it that pure ornament, as opposed to

imitation of natural forms, has gone through two stages of development,

which may be called the ‘Angular’ and the ‘Curved,’ of which the angular

precedes the curved, and stands to it in much the same relation as Roman

letters stand to current writing. During the Stone Age in Europe this

angular ornamentation seems universally to have prevailed. It continued

during the earlier Bronze Age, but towards its close the second phase

of ornamentation began to develope itself in some countries, and we of

the Iron Age have seen the old angular ornamentation almost supplanted

by its offspring. At the present day, one European people—the Lapps of

the extreme north—may still be said to remain almost in the first stage

of ornament; the hardness of their materials, the bone and wood on which

they mostly work, their little employment of metals and pottery, their

seclusion from the current of European civilization, have conspired to

keep them back. But it is more remarkable that a people of a more central

European area, and a more prolific land, should still linger on in the

transitionary stage between the old and new styles of decoration. Yet,

as far as my observation goes, this is the case with the Croats, and

generally with the Sclavonians of the south. They seem to be acquainted

with the beauty of the new style, but to cling with a peculiar fondness

to the angular ornamentation of their ruder forefathers. Thus, in the

women’s clothes, at least, nearly the whole of the embroidery is of

this prehistoric kind. The high collars of the Croat mantles, which

resemble those of the Lapps in form, resemble them also in pattern.

Many of the Croat women’s girdles are almost identical in pattern with

those I have seen among the Lapps of Lake Enare. In the Museum is to be

seen a large and curious collection of Croatian needlework, all of this

angular pattern—crosses, and lines, and zigzags. Here are also to be seen

carpets of rude character wrought by the homely looms of Slavonia, which

are curious illustrations of the perfection of the old style—complex as

the patterns are, they are all square or angled, and might any of them

be models for a mosaic pavement; their colours are green, red, yellow,

and white, less usually purple, and dark blue. But what is strange,

is to find side by side with these rude shapes the secondary form of

decoration in a highly developed state. The curved style of embroidery,

as it appears on some of the men’s mantles—and it is noteworthy that

it is confined almost exclusively to the men’s attire—is often a real

work of art, and the elaborate pear-shaped forms which it frequently

takes suggest the rich tendrillings of a Cashmere shawl. So abrupt is

the leap from the ruder kind of ornament generally used, that these

_chefs-d’œuvre_ of curvature seem to be rather importations from without,

than flowers of home growth. Nor does it seem difficult to trace their

origin, for they are very often reproductions of the decorations which

appear on the costly vests and jackets of the Turks. They are seedlings

from Stamboul—less directly, from Byzantium.

As in ornament so in general character, the Croatian dress resembles

that of all the Southern Sclaves, including the Roumans of Transylvania

and Wallachia, who, for ethnological purposes, may be looked on as

a Latinized branch of the family. In parts, indeed, it has been

Orientalized by the Turks; and it is noteworthy that just as the men’s

costume in Croatia shows the Oriental influence in ornament, so in

Serbia, Dalmatia, and the lands beyond the Save and Danube, it is the

men’s costume that makes the chief advances towards the Turkish. It is

possibly a symptom of the almost Oriental seclusion of those who have

to dread Oriental license. Often, when the husbands dress in completely

Turkish fashion, the wives preserve almost unaltered the old national

costumes; and it is owing to this, that throughout the whole South

Sclavonic area, enough of the original dress has survived to show the

common sisterhood of all. And of all, the Croat costume seems to be

the best representative of the old Serb—of the Sclavonic costume as it

existed in the days of the great Czar, Stephen Dūshan. Almost everywhere

else the men’s costume, at least, has suffered from Turkish influences.

Here, far better than in free Serbia, is the description applied to the

Serb laity in the old laws—the ‘dressers in white,’ still applicable to

the Croat men. At Belgrade it would be a meaningless epithet; at Agram

it is still true. The Croats, too, with their fine mantles and flowing

trouser and tunic, approach nearer to the primitive type of all—to the

soldiers of Decebalus—to the sculptures on the Column of Trajan—if indeed

we are to believe that the old Dacians were of Sarmatian stock.

The same South Sclavonic unity is apparent if we examine the pots and

pans which these old-world peasants are selling in the market-place.

There is hardly a form here which I do not remember in Wallachia,

in Bulgaria, in Serbia. But it may reasonably be asked, whether the

barbarous Serb races who settled in the Danubian basin in the fifth and

succeeding centuries could have brought with them such an array of highly

finished crockery as we see before us here? These narrow lofty necks

and luxurious handles are surely not an inheritance from fifth-century

savages. We do not find such among our Anglo-Saxon remains, nor even

among the relics of the more polished Franks. We must search amongst

Roman sepultures if we could find such in our own island, and indeed

this gives the clue to their origin even here. They have come to the

Sclaves of the South from a common source—the Eastern Roman Empire. Like

the coinage, like the rich architecture of the old Serbian Empire,

they betray Byzantine influences. The most conspicuous instance of

this is the _Stutza_ or _Stutchka_, as the Croats call it. This I have

seen myself nationalized and adopted by Wallacks, Bulgarians, Serbs,

Bosniacs, and Turks, over an area extending from the mouths of the Danube

to the Adriatic, and from the mountains of Bosnia to the Carpathians,

varying slightly at times in hue or form, but essentially the same. In

parts, even the original Roman word seems to have been preserved. In the

Bosnian mountains I found them still called _Testja_—doubtless the Roman

_Testa_.[148] This survival of the Roman vessel is shared by the western

part of the empire. The same shaped pot turns up in Spain and Portugal.

It is common to South Italy, and to this day large quantities of these

vessels are manufactured in Apulia and exported to the coast cities of

Dalmatia. I have seen Roman pots of this type dug up near Bucharest, at

Salona in Dalmatia, and at Siszek in Croatia, almost identical in shape

with those sold every day in the market-places of the respective modern

towns; and perhaps the best proof I can give of their likeness is, that

on showing a picture of one from Roman Siscia to a Croatian countryman,

he recognized it at once, and exclaimed ‘Stutza! Stutza!’ a name confined

here to this peculiar kind of vessel. A kind of earthenware drinking-cup,

which occurs in still ruder forms in Wallachia, is known here as _Scafa_,

which is almost identical with the Greek word for a bowl, σκάφη. To

call a _scaphé_ a _scaphé_, was the Greek equivalent for calling a spade

a spade; so the Croats at any rate can hardly be accused of not doing

that. _Scaphé_ is allied to another Greek word, _Scyphos_, signifying a

cup, and common to the Latins, insomuch that one felt inclined to quote

Horace’s lines to too bibulous Croats:—

Natis in usum lætitiæ Scyphis

Pugnare Thracum est.

[Illustration: Roman and Croatian Pottery.]

The other name by which this cup is known to the Croats and Illyrian

Sclaves, _Scalica_, is equally classical, and will recall at once the

Latin _Calicem_ and the Greek κύλικα. In form it has indeed degenerated

from the goblets of Olympus! but one need not despair of tracing its

pedigree from their graceless Roman corruptions. As to the Chalice of our

own and the Romance languages, though it is more like the classic _Calix_

in shape, it is not like these a living popular development, but, with

its name, a mere church introduction, a fragment of antiquity mewed up

for us in ecclesiastical reliquaries.

The other vessels to be found in the Croatian crockery-markets, if they

do not both in shape and name so obviously betray Roman influences, at

least in nearly every case bear witness to the common character of South

Sclavonic civilization. There is hardly a shape in the Agram market which

may not be found again at Belgrade or Bucharest.

[Illustration: Croatian Pottery.

1. Lónac (black-ware milk or water jug). 2. Péhar (reddish-yellow, for

wine, &c.). 3. Dúlčec (green glazed ware, for water, &c.). 4. Tégel

(brown with white bands). 5. Vessel used in Slavonia for slow boiling

(black ware). 6. Cylindrical jar, Slavonia. 7. Zamaclo (bright green

glaze). 8. Lid of same. 9, 10. Svična, or Čereapac, lamp and candle.

11. Whistle in form of a bird. 12. Scafa, or Scalica, drinking-goblet.

13. Dish, or plate (Zdillica, reddish ware with patterns inside). 14.

Earthenware sieve. 15. Raindl, or Raina, for cooking (red ware). 16.

Croatian glass. 17. Flašica. 18. Earthenware hand-stove (Rengla).]

If we pursue this science of the market-place and examine the rude

jewelry which the Agram maidens are wearing, or the musical instruments

which the countrymen have stuck into their belts or slung round their

shoulders, we are again struck by this double evidence of South Sclavonic

solidarity and the influence of Greco-Roman civilization. There are some

ancient Croatian brooches in the Museum at Agram on which is to be seen

the same filagree-work—the pyramids of grains, the spiral tendrillings,

which turn up again on other gold and silver ornaments—Frankish, Norse,

and Anglo-Saxon—and proclaim the common late-Roman origin of all. Like

those of our old English barrows, these brooches are bossed with gems set

in raised sockets. But here, unlike in England, this kind of work seems

never to have died out; it is perpetuated still in the ear-rings, studs,

and brooches of the modern Croats. The same Byzantine style reappears

among Serbs and Roumans, and we shall find it again among the Bosnian

mountains.

But how strangely classic are the musical instruments of the Croats!

What visions of bucolic shepherds, of fauns and dancing satyrs; what

memories of idyllic strains do they call up! Can it be merely that we

are overlooking the same Arcadian kind of life that the Greek poet might

have surveyed when he strolled forth beyond the walls of Syracuse? Is

‘the oaten stop and pastoral song’ the same, simply because the Croat

shepherd of the Save-lands is in the same stage of civilization as

was the rural Greek? Or are the pipes and lutes before us actually

heirlooms from the very shepherds of whom Theocritus piped on the thymy

pastures of Hybla?—the same with which Thyrsis and Corydon contended

on the green banks of the Mincius? It really almost seemed so. I asked

a countryman the name of his pipe, and to my amazement his reply was

_Fistjela_. The man did not understand a word of Latin, but this seemed

a very good attempt at _Fistula_, the pastoral pipe of the Romans, the

very instrument which Thyrsis vowed to hang on the sacred pine. The

old Pan’s pipe,[149] however, was a series of reeds waxed on to a stem

in decreasing order, while this was a single reed, though more often a

wooden pipe. It was also known as _Fuškola_.[150] Then there are the

double pipes, the Roman _Tibiæ_. A slight development has indeed taken

place. Instead of being held separate in the mouth, their ends are joined

by a mouth-piece. The V has become a Y, that is all. They are also

like the double pipes of classic times in being, as the ancients have

it, ‘male and female,’ for the number of holes being uneven in the two

branches—four in one and three in the other—one barrel is shriller than

the other, and their blended notes may still be called, as they were by

the Greeks, ‘married piping.’[151] Their name is _Svirala_, but in parts

of Serbia _Diplé_, which is evidently Greek; and yet if their origin can

be traced back to Hellenic times, it can be traced further back still to

the double pipes of the Theban monument, on which the Egyptian ladies of

Moses’ time are seen playing to their God Ptah.

Next, the Croats have a rude kind of flute possessed of the same Romance

name _Fluta_, the Wallachian Flaute, the Italian Flauto; and lastly,

the favourite instrument of all—the _Tamburica_, a simple form of lute

with a straight neck and oval body, and four strings, or rather wires.

Its name seems connected with the Persian drum or Tambûr; though in

form, but for its extra chord, it is almost an exact reproduction of the

three-stringed lute, the Nefer, which Thoth, their Mercury, is said to

have given to the Egyptians, which dates back at least to the time when

the Second Pyramid was built, which was handed on by the Egyptians to the

Phœnicians and Greeks, who knew it as Nafra and Pandoura, under which

name they gave it to the Romans.[152] Among the Latin peoples of the

West, at least, it never died out, and though at times changing its form

it has given the Italians their Pandora, the French their Mandore, the

Spaniards their Bandurria and Bandole,[153] and even to us our Bandoline

and—horresco referens!—the Banjo. Sir Gardner Wilkinson’s description of

the Egyptian Nefer will almost answer to describe the Croatian Tamburitza

of to-day. It had, he tells us, ‘a long flat neck and hollow oval body,

either wholly of wood or covered with parchment, having the upper surface

perforated with holes to allow the sound to escape. Over this body and

the whole length of the handle were stretched three strings of cat-gut,

secured at the upper extremity either by the same number of pegs or by

passing through a hole in the handle.’

[Illustration: Outlines of Croatian Musical Instruments.

1, 2. Fistjela, or whistles. 3, 4. Svirala. 5, 6, 7. Tamburica. 8, 9.

Fluta.]

It would be easy to show that the conical-shaped baskets, the _Corpa_,

which the Croat countryman on p. 4 has in his hand, is as like the Roman

_Corbis_ in form as it is in name, and may claim sisterhood with the

_Corbella_ of the Campanian peasant of to-day. Some even of the windows

of Agram have a Roman air, for in several upper-storeys and outhouses, to

save glass, they are provided with a heavy unglazed plate tracery of an

angular kind, which is an exact reproduction of the Roman tracery, to be

seen, for example, in the Amphitheatre of Pola in Istria.

[Illustration: Outline of Tracery.]

It is hard to say how far these various reproductions of antique forms

may be due to the earlier Roman or more Byzantine empire; how far they

may be waifs from the wrecks of Siscia or Sirmium; how far filtered in

from that later Constantinople which gave the old Serbs their religion

and the model of their empire. We know that the traces of the more purely

Roman empire, which embraced the old Dacia, Pannonia, and Illyricum,

have not entirely perished, for its language lives still among the

Roumans of the Carpathian and Danubian plains, among the Tzintzars of

Mount Pindus, and never died out in the coast cities of Dalmatia. The

Latin population, though reduced to the condition of shepherds, may yet

have prevailed to introduce some of their arts among their Sclavonic

conquerors. To this day the Tzintzars of the Macedonian mountains assert

their technical superiority to the races round in the practice of the

art of wood-carving. Considering the preservation of such Latin words as

Testja, or Fistjela, or Korpa, we may perhaps be justified in assuming

that many of the homely arts we see before us are rather the direct

inheritance from Trajan than from Heraclius. Nor must the influence of

the Venetians in Croatia be forgotten; for these kept open, in mediæval

and later times, the old trade-route between the Adriatic and the Danube,

opened out long before by their prototypes the Aquilejans.[154] To

them probably is due the small wooden cask, the Croatian _Baril_, the

Italian _Barile_; but one evident trace of Venice is to be found in the

glass-works which exist at Samobor in Croatia, and in the heart of the

deep oak forests of Slavonia. The name _Flašica_, of the glass bottles,

may be formed from the Italian _Fiasco_, _Flascon_, and the forms of

the rude beakers and the prettily rippled Croatian flasks are true

Venetian—light, roughly blown, and of Roman bottle-green. In Dalmatia the

importation of similar rude glass vessels still continues from the small

Venetian island of Murano—the seat of the famed glass-works of old. But

even these Venetian forms are, less directly, but another inheritance

from Rome.

In modern times we must not forget the activity of the new Queen of

the Adriatic, ‘la bella Trieste,’ the Austrian successor of the great

republic, nor the Italian seaport of Hungary, Fiume, connected now

with the interior by rail as well as by the magnificent Louisa-way; so

that, with the old Venetian influences, we have plenty to account for

the presence of a considerable Italian ingredient in the population

of Agram and Croatia generally. For anyone here unacquainted with

Croatian, Italian, not German, is the best means of communication. The

Styrian mountains seem to form a shed between the areas of German and

Italian influences, and besides, the Croats, like the Czechs, feel a

certain jealousy of the German language which they do not experience

of the Italian. Many of the high officials here show, by their names

or features, an Italian descent. The military governor of Croatia is

a Signor Mollinary; the director of telegraphs, whose acquaintance we

were pleased to make, has an Italian, or rather a thoroughly Roman

physiognomy, and speaks Tuscan by preference; the more civilized race

seems to climb over the shoulders of the ruder Croats.

However, it must be remembered that German is still the language in use

among the officers and bureaucracy of the monarchy, and that many of them

reside here in Agram, so that the result is that nearly everybody in the

town can speak three languages—Croatian, Italian, and German—and many

of them speak French as well, which is more learnt here than formerly,

as jealousy of the Germans becomes stronger with rising national

aspirations. Even the military speak less German than they used to do;

and here, as in Slovene Styria, the national tongue has now supplanted

German as the school speech, and even to a certain extent as the official

language. Among the Likaner and western _regiments_ of the Granitza, as

one approaches the Adriatic and Dalmatian frontier, Italian is known even

by the peasants, and in the other parts of Croatia there is an itinerant

Italian-speaking population, chiefly from Dalmatia, who gain their living

as builders, and are esteemed better workers than the natives. It is

natural that the Croats, lying between two more civilized nationalities,

should be well practised in foreign tongues; but it must be allowed that

they have a natural aptitude for learning them. They themselves are quite

conscious of possessing this faculty, and there is nothing that a Croat

prides himself on more than his gift of tongues.

A Croatian merchant with whom we were talking grew quite eloquent on this

subject. ‘A Croat, sir,’ he said, ‘will learn any language under the

sun in three months!—a German takes twice the time. Look at me! Besides

my native tongue I know German, I know French, I know Serbian, I know

Latin, I know Hungarian, and I picked up Italian in a month. To know a

dozen languages is quite an ordinary accomplishment in Agram. Why, one

of the members elected here to-day for the Diet, speaks fourteen. Just

look at our philologists. Gaj was a Croat; Vuk Karadjić was a Croat;[155]

Jagić, the greatest philologer living, was born at Agram. You English,

you have your powers; you make railroads, you build bridges; but the

faculty of learning languages is God’s gift to _us_!’ I do not know

whose gift exaggeration may be; but, making every allowance for our

friend’s patriotism, it must be acknowledged that the Sclavonic races

have produced a large number of eminent philologers, and it may even be

questioned how far the German superiority to us in this respect may not

be due to their Sclavonic blood. In Agram this same faculty is shared in

a humbler degree by the peasants of the market-place, who show quite an

Italian aptitude for understanding a foreigner, and are remarkably quick

in taking in the meaning of signs. This faculty does not stand alone;

this power of attitudinising, the very dress of the peasants, all are

symptoms of a common quality. It is a certain subtle adaptiveness, common

to the whole Sclavonic race.

I had noticed in the market, sitting apart from the light Croat country

people, a man selling vegetables of a different kind to the others, with

vestments of a duller hue, and on his head a black conical sheepskin cap,

which recalled to mind the head-gear of the Bulgars of the Lower Danube,

and sure enough a Bulgar he turned out to be. On enquiring I found that a

small Bulgarian colony had settled near the Archbishop’s Park of Maximir,

to tracking out which I devoted my last afternoon at Agram. Passing

through the park, I pursued a path which seemed to lie in the direction

given me, and, after meandering awhile among maize fields, found myself

presently alone in a beautiful oak forest. Through this I wandered on,

now and then emerging on breathing glades which reminded me of the New

Forest, enlivened too with the same brilliant fritillaries, and once a

lightning glimpse of the purple emperor of butterflies himself, swooping

down from his oaken eyrie. Only one thing appeared to be wanting, and

that was a path; but I heard in the distance a tinkling of kine, and

making my way towards the sound, espied some of the mild-eyed cows of the

country grazing among the gnarled oak trunks, and under a tree beyond, a

party of peasant women and maidens, towards whom I directed my footsteps.

But hardly had I opened my lips, than, with a cry of alarm, they

scampered off, and plunged into the thick of the forest like startled

deer! The combined effect of an Indian helmet and Norfolk coattee is in

these parts quite appalling. Only this morning as L⸺ was strolling along

a street of Agram, an old woman, mistaking him, as it would appear, for

the devil, drew herself up, and having crossed herself and muttered

sundry spells, felt greatly comforted. But the cows, though they took

my appearance on the sylvan scene very coolly, maintained an impassible

silence, and meanwhile

Mi ritrovai per una selva oscura,

Che la diritta via era smarrita;

E quanto a dir qual era è cosa dura,

Questa selva selvaggia et aspra e forte,

till happily a distant grunting fell on my ears, and groping my way

through the trees I lighted this time on two swineherds and their charge;

but the boys, though not so timid as the womankind, could not help me,

and I must wander on till I found a woodman in a Croatian costume of

darker hue—the bright red vest supplanted by one of funereal black, as

befitting the sombreness of the woods—with whose help I found my way out

of the forest, and finally to the Bulgarian settlement on the skirts of

Maximir, which before I had overshot.

The colony consisted of two very rude straw-thatched sheds, which seemed

all thatch and no wall, insomuch that on approaching them I at first

mistook them for two long, irregular haystacks. One of the hovels was

for dwelling-house and the other as a shelter for vegetable stores,

filled with gherkins and onions, and overgrown by a vine-leaved pumpkin.

The dwelling-house had a kind of porch or atrium; that is to say, the

thatched eaves, supported by two poles, projected almost as far in front

of the door as the one room extended behind it. Under this canopy were

seated two Bulgars, hard at work tying up bundles of onions, clad in

their dark national costume—the brown tight-sleeved jacket embroidered

with black, the dull red sash, the brown trouser-leggings which are

equally Turkish and Tartar, and on their head the black sheepskin cap

which had at first attracted my attention; while on a peg behind hung one

of their heavy mantles of the same black, shaggy sheepskin.

[Illustration: Bulgarian Settlement.]

It would be difficult to imagine a greater contrast to the Croatian

costume than was presented here. The dress of the Croats is light and

airy, as if they had strayed from a land of perpetual sunshine. The

Bulgars are armoured against the elements—you would fancy they were

fresh from some hyperborean land of frost and storms—not yet acclimatised

to the sunny South. The flowing tunics of the Croats invite the slightest

breeze; the brilliant red and white hues seem to tell of a land where the

roses bloom all the year round. But the heavy mantles of the Bulgars,

the woollen coats, the close sleeves and leggings, are made as if to

exclude the wind and frost; the cold dark colours shadow forth a sky to

match. Yet the climate of the modern Bulgaria, in its widest sense, does

not differ in any considerable degree from that of the Croats, except

that parts of the Bulgarian area are hotter. Both are lands of vines and

fig trees. Yet the language is almost the same. The modern Bulgar can

talk with the Croat without an interpreter. Whence, then, this startling

divergence of attire? The reason is to be sought far away in the dim

twilight of history. Originally the Bulgars were not a Sclavonic people.

Their kinship lies with mysterious Huns and Tartars. The fatherland

whence they wandered forth lies on the shores of the Caspian and the

mounts of Turkestan or more northern Altai. Since their arrival in Europe

they have been lost, as it were, in a great Sclavonic sea. They have

been Sclavonized by the multitude of their subjects, just as the Mantchu

Tartars have within the last two centuries been Celestialized by the

Chinese they subdued. But it is the northern nomads who have formed the

backbone to this large unwieldy body. It was the Ugrian dynasty that

erected in the tenth century the Bulgarian Czardom, as civilized as any

state in contemporary Europe; that humbled Byzantine Cæsars in the dust

with their own weapons, and planted the standard of the crowned lion at

the gates of Constantinople. It was the Ugrian dynasty that took the lead

in the first great Rouman-Sclavonic revolt against Byzantium, that ruled

for awhile from the Ægean to the Danube, and from the shores of the Black

Sea to the Adriatic. But much as the Mantchus, though lost among their

subjects, have given the Chinese their bows and pigtails, so the Bulgars

have given their tails and dress, at least in part, to their Sclavonic

subjects; and these shaggy sheepskin mantles, and close-fitting woollens,

still remain to tell of the chill Central-Asian plateau whence their

forefathers migrated.

[Illustration: Bulgarian Profile.]

But the Bulgars before me had other proofs of their origin even more

unmistakeable than their attire. Their pedigree is written on their

faces. These are not Sclavonic. They are of that type, more easily

recognised than described, Mongolian in its widest sense, which extends

from the White Sea shores, among Lapps and Samoyeds, Beormas and Voguls,

to the Tartars and Chinese. Here are the curiously prominent cheek-bones,

the broad and otherwise flat face, the small sunken eyes, the nose flat

at top and inclined to be globular below; their eyebrows are strong and

relieved; their complexion is dark, their head shaven save one black tuft

or tail; these are true Ugrians, the ogres of our nursery stories. The

purity of their breed, as evinced by this strangely Asiatic physiognomy,

was partly explained by the locality of their home. They had come, so

they said, from Ternova, the holy city of the Bulgarians, the destination

of their pilgrimages, the seat of their old metropolitans. This was the

last stronghold of the national dynasty, and to the last the original

Ugrian nucleus of the race may have clustered round it—nay, who knows?

even these poor peasants may have been descendants of Bulgarian Czars!

They had come all the way up the Danube and Save to scrape together money

by their superior agricultural industry among the lazier Croats, and

having brought with them some of their native seeds, were able to expose

for sale gherkins of peculiar forms, and finer kinds of onions, in the

Agram market. While I was there two more of the party came up; and one

of them, a fine young fellow, dressed in European costume, I did not

suspect to be a Bulgarian till he told me in German that he belonged to

the settlement, and had come with them for a still more laudable purpose,

namely, to obtain a good education. They had been here now three years,

and, having scraped together some earnings, proposed to return this

autumn. The savingness of the race was noticeable in their clothing,

which was the same they had brought with them from Bulgaria; but I do not

think that any amount of patching and mending could make it hold together

much longer. The good humour which also distinguishes their race beamed

forth from their every feature; they were evidently very pleased to see

a visitor, were delighted to let me sketch them, and one sat quietly

while I took his profile. They invited me to visit the inside of their

hut, whose thatch was partly eked out with vine leaves and fir branches.

Inside it was very dark, the only light coming through the door, itself

overshadowed, and from a low-burning wood fire placed in a semicircular

bay of brick which formed a chimney above. Over the fire was suspended

a copper caldron, in which their homely supper was then brewing, and

this was hung up by a hook such as I have seen in Wallachia, made of

two pieces of wood instead of iron. Round the room ran a low wooden

platform or daïs, such as throughout the barbarous lands of Eastern

Europe serves as seat by day and bed by night, and on which the Turks

spread their gorgeous divan. Hung round the wall were several more of

the black sheepskin mantles, which imparted an additional gloom to this

poor earth-floor den; and from another peg was suspended the national

guitar, so that they could sing their own songs in a strange land. This

is not the same as the Croatian Tamburitza; it is larger, and resembles

the Serbian Ghuzla, by which name it was known to the Bulgarians. Unlike,

too, the Croatian instrument, which is twanged by the fingers, this

was played by a bow. This had not been brought from Bulgaria, but was

made here by one of the settlers, who, seeing me examining it, took it

out into the porch, and seating himself on a low three-legged stool,

played an air which was meant to be lively. It was a dance tune, and

much like those to which I have seen the Roumans dance one of their

stamping _Can-cans_; it was the Bulgarian Igraja, Croatian Igrati, but

better known by its Serbian equivalent the Kolo, or Sclavonic waltz. The

plodding Bulgars, however, did not waltz, but plied their work harder,

with a smile of inward enjoyment on their faces, which I imitated with

difficulty, as the tune was wofully monotonous, there being only three

strings to the instrument, all told; nor can I imagine any one who could

tolerate such strains long—unless he wear a kilt. When the serenade was

ended I took leave of the party, who most affectionately pressed on me

a large nosegay of zimnias and rosemary, the ornaments of their little

garden.

_Aug. 6._—Next day, having heard that there was to be a large market

at Karlovac,[156] about twenty-five miles south-west of Agram, towards

the Bosnian frontier of Croatia, we hurried thither by rail, through

fine oak forests and maize-covered champaign. On arriving we found the

whole town swarming with country-folk, and the streets lined with varied

booths. Several new features appeared in the costumes, and, above all,

the greater propinquity to the Dalmatian frontier asserted itself in

brilliant fezzes, such as are worn by the Morlachs and Uskoks of the

Adriatic coastlands. They are of brighter scarlet than the Turkish,

covered with rich embroidery or minute tassels of brilliant silk, like

the tufts on some gorgeous caterpillar, and culminating in a peak. Some,

however, wore varieties of the Agramer’s ‘pork-pie,’ which seemed to

have been taken from patterns in the ‘Nuremberg Chronicle,’ and are very

fashionable still in Sclavonic Istria. Some of the men wore blue vests

or sleeveless jackets in place of the red of Agram; their belts were

broader, and often displayed aching voids, in which outside the walls

they carry arms; for within the towns here this is forbidden to all but

Turks, who have managed to associate the practice with their religion,

and are allowed to wear pistols and daggers under a conscience clause.

[Illustration: Sluin Woman.]

But the most curious costume belonged to a people whose jet-black hair

and physiognomy suggested Zingar relationship. The colours of their

dress were as much darker than those of the surrounding Croats as their

tresses than the prevailing tint of hair. The women wore over their black

tunic and apron-skirt two black aprons, one before and one behind, with a

long fringe attached; both sexes had satchels of black slung over their

shoulders, and great black or dark blue mantles. On enquiry we found that

they were called Wallacks, or in its Croatian form, Vlach. This curious

word, used by Teutonic races[157] under different forms to characterise

Roman strangers, is also used among the Southern Sclaves to qualify

strangers of Latin blood such as the Wallacks of Roumania; besides, as a

term of contempt for any strangers, and especially strangers in religion.

Thus the Sclavonic Mahometans of Herzegovina apply it to Christians

generally, the Croats of the Latin Church apply it to the members of the

Greek communion, while the Serbs of the interior, who are mostly Greek,

call their brothers of Dalmatia, who are mostly Roman Catholics, Morlachs

or Mor-vlachs—that is, sea-Welsh. In the case of these peasants in the

Karlovac market it simply meant, not that they were Roumans or Tzintzars,

but that they belonged to the Greek Church, and the explanation of this

is found in their tradition that they migrated hither in former times

from Serbia. Now, however, they speak the Croatian dialect and call

themselves Croats. Their homes are about Sluin, twenty-five miles south

of Karlovac, on the Bosnian extremity of the Military Frontier.

[Illustration: Croat Man.]

Excepting the gypsy-like faces of these Sluin folk, the features of the

Karlovac Croats agreed with those of the Agramers, to such an extent

as emboldens me to delineate certain main characteristics. The nose is

finely cut, but flattens out towards the forehead, between which and it

runs a deep furrow, which I recollect noticing among many Roumans. The

face is hairless save for a moustache on the upper lip, sometimes twirled

into ferocity; and scanty whiskers under the cheek-bone, as in Serbia,

Bosnia, and Dalmatia. The hair is often light, in the children sometimes

quite auburn; the eyes are of varying shades of grey and blue, lurking,

as so frequently among the Illyrian Sclaves, in a pan-like socket.

Hence shadow surrounds the eyes below as above, which gives a peculiar

character to South Sclavonic beauty from the Bocche di Cattaro to the

Lower Danube. So deep at times is the surrounding shade that a poet of

the race might compare his mistress’s eyes to turquoises chaliced in a

setting of ebony! But the deepset roving eyes of the Croat, on which he

prides himself so highly, are often at first sight repellent, suggesting

suspicion and cruelty, though redeeming lines of good-humour eddy round.

Taken as a whole, the face is wanting in the power and massiveness of the

Teutonic. Contrasted with the Serbs, the Croats are neither so tall nor

so finely proportioned; their countenance is less open, beauty rarer. The

Croats bitterly lamented to us over the idleness of their peasants; their

neighbours, Italian and Slavonian,[158] were much better workers. They

are incorrigible drunkards; indeed we saw enough intoxication at Karlovac

Fair, and all the wine shops of the town were filled to overflowing;

wine, not _slivovitz_ or plum-brandy, being here the drink. But with all

their faults the Croats are kind and good-humoured, and certainly neither

at Agram nor at Karlovac had we any reason to complain of a want of

friendliness. The hospitality of a Karlovatzer was quite overpowering. We

were passing his house during a slight shower, when he literally dragged

us in and forced on us his native wine—on which for politeness’ sake, I

will express no opinion—diluted with flat Seltzer-water from Croatian

springs, till we begged for mercy. The Croats make flat Seltzer-water

effervesce with a small wooden instrument rejoicing in the name of

‘_Didlideilshek_.’

But to return to the market, which was on a very large scale, embracing

nearly the whole town and suburbs, and a scene of exceeding gaiety. The

booths for similar wares were ranged together; here were mighty piles

of crockery, the _stutzas_, the _scalicas_, and all the varied throng;

there a store of glass ware from the Slavonian forests, light, hand-made,

Venetian. Then the vegetable market embarrassed us with a choice of fine

figs, peaches, pears, water-melons with salmon-coloured slices ready cut,

rosy and beautiful apples, and delicious yellow plums like small Orleans;

further on we saw what might be mistaken for row on row of gigantic

black-beetles hung up like vermin in a wood, but on coming nearer they

turned out to be black _opankas_, of which the peasants were laying in

great stocks. At other shops you might procure wondrous leather wallets,

or Turkish knives, from the famed Bosnian forges of Travnik or Serajevo;

and beyond we came to the crowning glory of all—the clothes stalls, and

the gold-embroidered Dalmatian fezzes glittering in the sunshine. But the

chief attraction, for the peasants at all events, was the cattle-market

in the field outside the town, where might be seen herds of small Arab

horses, long-haired Merino-like sheep with spiral procerity of horn,

soft-eyed strawberry-coloured cows, innumerable pigs, and throngs of

brown long-haired goats, butting each other and pushing at each other

as if they were playing the Rugby game of football! Over which animals,

collectively and individually, the peasant farmers were shaking hands in

the most orthodox manner, as each bargain was struck. The goats and sheep

were driven in by Bosnian Rayahs from the distant mountains of Turkish

Croatia, and the way in which they expended the profits of their sales in

buying powder and bullets was anything but reassuring to those about to

trust themselves to their tender mercies.

Of Karlovac and its inhabitants proper there is little to chronicle

except that the inhabitants possess a certain gift of inventiveness;

for a report spread through the town in no time that we had walked from

Rotterdam for a bet, and the report did all the more credit to the

fertility of the Karlovatzan imagination in that it had no particle of

foundation whatsoever. The town is divided into the citadel and fortified

part, containing the churches, official houses, and a chilling square;

and the Varoš or suburb, which comprises the bulk of the houses. There

is nothing here of interest; the churches are bare, with the usual

bulbous spires; the houses are devoid of ornament, and guiltless of

architectural pretensions. They are mostly wooden; but here there

are none of the mediæval survivals of an old German town—none of the

elaborate carvings that speak of ancient civilization and the taste of

old merchant princes. Such relics one does not find in the Sclavonic East

of Europe. Karlovac is situated well for trade. She lies on the Kulpa,

which connects her with the Savian and Danubian commercial basins, and

into which, hard by, debouches the Korana, opening out a valley route

into the mountains of North-West Bosnia; while a little above the town

the river Dobra performs the same service in the Dalmatian direction.

She is situated on the chief pass over the Dinaric Alps, just where the

watershed between the Adriatic and Black Sea is lowest. Karlovac is, in

fact, the meeting-place of the three high roads which bind the interior

of Hungary and Croatia with their seaports—the Carolina-, Josephina-,

and Louisa-ways; and a new railway has opened out steam communication

with Trieste and Fiume. But despite these advantages Karlovac has no

commercial past, and her commercial present, if we except a little timber

transport and rosoglio distilling, is confined to the petty huckstering

of these peasant gatherings. Her very origin was military. She owes her

name and foundation to the Austrian Archduke Charles, chief lieutenant of

the Emperor Rudolf in the Croatian military frontier, who began building

the town in 1577, and finished its walls in 1582. He planted here a

colony of soldiers, for whom, ‘whether German or Hungarian or Croat, or

of any other nation,’ he gained certain privileges and immunities from

the Emperor,[159] the chief of which was the right to hold in perpetuity

any house built here. It was peopled chiefly by refugees from Southern

Croatia, then annexed by the Turks, against whom in 1579 the still

unfinished town was successfully defended. For we are now on the borders

of the Military Frontier, the nine-hundred-mile-long line of battle

prepared by the Hapsburgh Cæsars against the Infidel.

Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875 · 第 1 / 10 章