CHAPTER XXI.

CENTRAL AMERICA--RAILWAYS, CANALS, AND TRANSIT.

How best to get about this world which God has given us is certainly

one of the most interesting subjects which men have to consider, and

one of the most interesting works on which men can employ themselves.

The child when born is first suckled, then fed with a spoon; in

his next stage, his food is cut up for him, and he begins to help

himself; for some years after that it is still carved under parental

authority; and then at last he sits down to the full enjoyment of his

own leg of mutton, under his own auspices.

Our development in travelling has been much of the same sort, and we

are now perhaps beginning to use our own knife and fork, though we

hardly yet understand the science of carving; or at any rate, can

hardly bring our hands to the duly dexterous use of the necessary

tools.

We have at least got so far as this, that we perceive that the leg

of mutton is to be cooked and carved. We are not to eat hunks of raw

sheep cut off here and there. The meat to suit our palates should

be put on a plate in the guise of a cleanly slice, cut to a certain

thickness, and not exceeding a certain size.

And we have also got so far as this, that we know that the world must

be traversed by certain routes, prepared for us originally not by

ourselves, but by the hand of God. We were great heroes when we first

got round the Cape of Good Hope, when we first crossed the Atlantic,

when we first doubled Cape Horn. We were then learning to pick up our

crumbs with our earliest knives and forks, and there was considerable

peril in the attempt. We have got beyond that now, and have perceived

that we may traverse the world without going round it. The road from

Europe to Asia is by Egypt and the Isthmus of Suez, not by the Cape

of Good Hope. So also is the road from Europe to the West of America,

and from the east of America to Asia by the isthmus of Central

America, and not by Cape Horn.

We have found out this, and have, I presume, found out also that

this was all laid out for us by the hands of the Creator,--prepared

exactly as the sheep have been prepared. It has been only necessary

that we should learn to use the good things given us.

That there are reasons why the way should not have been made

absolutely open we may well suppose, though we cannot perhaps at

present well understand. How currents of the sea might have run so

as to have impeded rather than have assisted navigation, had the

two Americas been disjoined; how pernicious winds might have blown,

and injurious waters have flowed, had the Red Sea opened into the

Mediterranean, we may imagine, though we cannot know. That the

world's surface, as formed by God, is best for God's purposes, and

therefore certainly best for man's purposes, that most of us must

believe.

But it is for us to carve the good things which are put before us,

and to find out the best way in which they may be carved. We may,

perhaps, fairly think that we have done much towards acquiring this

knowledge, but we certainly know that there is more yet to be done.

We have lines of railways from London to Manchester; from Calais

across France and all the Germanies to Eastern Europe; from the

coast of Maine, through the Canadas, to the central territories

of the United States; but there are no lines yet from New York to

California, nor from the coast of the Levant to Bombay and Calcutta.

But perhaps the two greatest points which are at this moment being

mooted, with reference to the carriage about the world of mankind and

man's goods, concern the mode in which we may most advantageously

pass across the isthmuses of Suez and Panama. These are the two land

obstacles in the way of navigation, of direct water carriage round

the earth's belt--obstacles as they appear to us, though in truth

so probably locks formed by the Almighty for the assistance of our

navigation.

For many years, it is impossible to say how many, but for some few

centuries as regards Panama, and for many centuries as regards Suez,

this necessity has been felt, and the minds of men in those elder

days inclined naturally to canals. In the days of the old kings of

Egypt, antecedent to Cleopatra, attempts were made to cut through the

sands and shallow lakes from the eastern margin of the Nile's delta

to the Red Sea; and the idea of piercing Central America in some

point occurred to the Spaniards immediately on their discovering

the relative position of the two oceans. But in those days men were

infants, not as yet trusted with the carving-knife.

The work which unsuccessfully filled the brains of so many thoughtful

men for so many years has now been done--at any rate to a degree.

Railways have been completed from Alexandria on the Mediterranean to

Suez on the Red Sea, and from Panama on the Pacific, to Aspinwall

or Colon on the Caribbean Sea. These railways are now at work, and

passengers are carried across with sufficient rapidity. The Isthmus

of Suez, over which the line of railway runs for something over

two hundred miles, creates a total delay to our Indian mails and

passengers of twenty-four hours only, and the lesser distance of the

American isthmus is traversed in three hours. Were rapidity here as

necessary as it is in the other case--and it will doubtless become

so--the conveyance from one sea to the other need not create a delay

of above twelve hours.

But not the less are many men--good and scientific men too--keenly

impressed with the idea that the two isthmuses should be pierced

with canals, although these railways are at work. All mankind has

heard much of M. Lesseps and his Suez canal. On that matter I do not

mean to say much here. I have a very strong opinion that such canal

will not and cannot be made; that all the strength of the arguments

adduced in the matter are hostile to it; and that steam navigation

by land will and ought to be the means of transit through Egypt. But

that matter is a long way distant from our present subject. It is

with reference to the transit over the other isthmus that I propose

to say a few words.

It is singular, or perhaps if rightly considered not singular, that

both the railways have been constructed mainly by Anglo-Saxon science

and energy, and under the pressure of Anglo-Saxon influence; while

both the canal schemes most prevalent at the present day owe their

repute to French eloquence and French enthusiasm. M. Lesseps is the

patron of the Suez canal, and M. Belly of that which is, or is not to

be, constructed from San Juan del Norte, or Greytown, to the shores

of the Pacific.

There are three proposed methods of crossing the isthmus, that by

railway, that by canal, and a third by the ordinary use of such

ordinary means of conveyance as the land and the waters of the

country afford.

As regards railway passage, one line being now open and at work,

has those nine points in its favour which possession gives. It does

convey men and goods across with great rapidity, and is a reality,

doing that which it pretends to do. Its charges, however, are very

high; and it would doubtless be well if competition, or fear of

competition, could be made to lower them. Five pound is charged for

conveying a passenger less than fifty miles; no class of passengers

can cross at a cheaper fare; and the rates charged for goods are

as high in comparison. On the other side, it may be said that

the project was one of great risk, that the line was from its

circumstances very costly, having been made at an expense of about

thirty-two thousand pounds a mile--I believe, however, that a

considerable portion of the London and Birmingham line was equally

expensive--and that trains by which money can be made cannot run

often, perhaps only six or seven times a month each way.

It is, however, very desirous that the fares should be lowered, and

the great profits accruing to the railway prove that this may be

done. Eventually they doubtless will be lowered.

The only other line of railway which now seems to be spoken of as

practicable for the passage of the isthmus is one the construction

of which has been proposed across the republic of Honduras, from a

spot called Port Cortez, in the Bay of Honduras, on the northern or

Atlantic side, to some harbour to be chosen in the Bay of Fonseca, on

the southern or Pacific side. Mr. Squier, who was Chargé d'Affaires

from the United States to Central America, and whose work on the

republics of Central America is well known, strongly advocates this

line, showing in the first place that from its position it would suit

the traffic of the United States much better than that of Panama;

as undoubtedly it would, seeing that the transit from New York to

California, viâ Panama, must go down south as far as latitude 7°

north; whereas, by the proposed route through Honduras it need not

descend below lat. 13° north, thus saving double that distance in

the total run each way.* Mr. Squier then goes on to prove that the

country of Honduras is in every way suited for the purposes of a

railway; but here I am not sure that he carries me with him. The road

would have to ascend nearly three thousand feet above the sea-level;

and though it may be true that the grades themselves would not be

more severe than many that are now to be found on railways in full

work in other countries, nevertheless it must be felt that the

overcoming such an altitude in such a country, and the working over

it when overcome, would necessarily add greatly to the original cost

of the line, and the subsequent cost of running. The Panama line

goes through a country comparatively level. Then the distance across

Honduras is one hundred and fifty miles, and it is computed that the

line would be two hundred miles: the length of the Panama line is

forty-seven or forty-eight miles.

[*Not that we may take all that Mr. Squier says on this

subject as proved. His proposed route for the traffic of the

United States is from the western coast of Florida to the

chosen port, Port Cortez, in Honduras; and he attempts to

show that this is pretty nearly the only possible passage in

those seas free from hurricanes and danger. But this passage

is right across the Gulf of Mexico, and vessels would have

to stem the full force of the gulf-stream on their passage

down from Florida.

In all such matters where a man becomes warm on a scheme he

feels himself compelled to prove that the gods themselves

have pointed out the plan as the only one fit for adoption,

as the only one free from all evil and blessed with every

advantage. We are always over-proving our points.]

The enormous cost of the Panama line arose from the difficulty of

obtaining the necessary sort of labour. The natives would not work as

they were wanted, and Europeans died there; so that, at last, labour

was imported from the coast of New Granada. At the high level named

as the summit of the Honduras route, the climate would no doubt be

comparatively mild, and labour easy to be borne; but near the coast

of the Bays, both of Honduras and Fonseca, the heat would be as great

as at Aspinwall and Panama, and the effects probably the same.

As regards our British traffic, the route by the Isthmus of Panama is

the better situated of the two. Looking at a map of the world--and

it is necessary to take in the whole world, in order that the

courses of British trade may be seen--it does not seem to be of much

consequence, as regards distance, whether a bale of goods from London

to Sydney should pass the isthmus by Honduras or Panama; but in

fact, even for this route, the former would labour under great

disadvantages. A ship in making its way from Honduras up to Jamaica

has to fight against the trade winds. On this account our mail

steamer from Belize to Jamaica is timed only at four miles an hour,

though the mail to Honduras is timed at eight miles an hour. This

would be the direct route from the terminus of the Honduras line

to Europe, and matters would be made only worse if any other line

were taken. But the track from Panama to Jamaica is subject to what

sailors call a soldier's wind; even working to St. Thomas, and

thereby getting a stronger slant of the trade winds against them, our

mail steamers can make eight or nine miles an hour.

As regards our trade to Chili and Peru, it is clear that Honduras

is altogether out of our way; and as regards our coming trade to

Frazer River and Vancouver's Island, though the absolute distance,

via Honduras, would be something shorter, that benefit would be

neutralized by the disadvantageous position of the Bay of Honduras

as above explained.

But the great advantage which the Panama line enjoys is the fact of

its being already made. _It has the nine points which possession

gives it._ Its forty-eight miles cost one million six hundred

thousand pounds. It cannot be presumed that two hundred miles through

Honduras could be made for double that sum; and seeing that the

Honduras line would be in opposition to the other, and only be used

if running at fares lower than those of its rival, I cannot see how

it would pay, or where the money is to be procured. I am not aware

that the absolute cost of the proposed line through Honduras has been

accurately computed.

As regards the public interest, two lines would no doubt be better

than one. Competition is always beneficial to the consumer; but in

this case, I do not expect to see the second line made in our days.

That there will in future days be a dozen ways of commodiously

crossing the isthmus--when we have thoroughly learned how best to

carve our leg of mutton--I do not at all doubt.

It may be as well to state here that England is bound by a treaty

with Honduras, made in 1836, to assist in furthering the execution

of this work by our countenance, aid, and protection, on condition

that when made, we Britishers are to have the full use of it;

as much so, at least, as any other people or nation. And that,

as I take it, is the sole and only meaning of all those treaties

made on our behalf with Central America, or in respect to Central

America--Clayton-Bulwer treaty, new Ouseley treaty, and others;

namely, that we, who are desirous of excluding no person from the

benefits of this public world-road, are not ourselves to be excluded

on any consideration whatever. And may we not boast that this is the

only object looked for in all our treaties and diplomatic doings?

Is it not for that reason that we hold Gibraltar, are jealous about

Egypt, and resolved to have Perim in our power? Is it not true that

we would fain make all ways open to all men? that we would have them

open to ourselves, certainly; but not closed against any human being?

If that, and such like, be not what our diplomatists are doing, then

I, for one, misunderstand their trade.

So much for the two railways, and now as to the proposed canals. Here

no happy undertaking can boast of the joys of possession. No canal is

as yet open carrying men and goods with, shall we say, twenty-five

per cent. profit on the outlay. Ah, that is an elysium which does not

readily repeat itself. Oh, thou thrice happy Colonel Totten, who hast

constructed a railway resulting in such celestial beatitude!

The name of canals projected across the isthmus has been legion, and

the merits of them all have in their time been hotly pressed by their

special advocates. That most to the north, which was the passage

selected by Cortes, and pressed by him on the Spanish government,

would pass through Mexico. The line would be from the Gulf of

Campechay, up the river Coatzacoalcoz, to Tehuantepec, on the

Pacific. This was advocated as lately as 1845, but has now, I

believe, been abandoned as impracticable. Going south down the map,

the next proposition of which I can find mention is for a canal from

the head of the Lake of Dulce through the state of Guatemala; the

Lake or Gulf of Dulce being at the head of the Gulf of Honduras.

This also seems to have been abandoned. Then we come to the proposed

Honduras railway, of which mention has been made.

Next below this we reach a cluster of canals, all going through the

great inland lake of Nicaragua. This scheme, or one of these schemes,

has also been in existence since the times of the early Spaniards;

and has been adhered to with more or less pertinacity ever since.

This Lake of Nicaragua was to be reached either direct by the river

San Juan, or by entering the river San Juan from the ocean by the

river Colorado, which is in effect a branch of the San Juan; the

projected canal would thus ascend to the lake. From thence to the

Pacific various passages for egress have been suggested; at first it

was intended, naturally, to get out at the nearest practicable point,

that being probably at San Juan del Sur. They have San Juans and San

Josés quite at pleasure about these countries.

Then came the grand plan of the present French emperor, bearing at

least his name, and first published, I think, in 1846; this was a

very grand plan, of course. The route of "transit" was to be right up

the Lake of Nicaragua to its northern point; there the canal was to

enter the River Tipitapa, and come out again in the northern Lake of

Managua; from thence it was to be taken out to the Pacific at the

port of Realejo. This project included the building of an enormous

city, which was to contain the wealth of the new world, and to be, as

it were, a new Constantinople between the two lakes; but the scheme

has been abandoned as being too costly, too imperial.

And now we have M. Belly's scheme; his scheme and pamphlet of which I

will say a few words just now, and therefore I pass on to the others.

The line of the River Chargres, and from thence to the town of

Panama--being very nearly the line of the present railway--was

long contemplated with favour, but has now been abandoned as

impracticable; as has also the line over the Isthmus of Darien,

which was for a while thought to be the most feasible, as being

the shortest. The lie of the land, however, and the nature of the

obstacles to be overcome, have put this scheme altogether out of the

question.

Next and last is the course of the River Atrato, which runs into the

Gulf of Darien, but which is, in fact, the first of the great rivers

of South America; first, that is, counting them as commencing from

the isthmus. It runs down from the Andes parallel to the coast of

the Pacific, and is navigable for many miles. The necessary surveys,

however, for connecting this river with the Pacific have never yet

been made; and even if this plan were practicable, the extremely low

latitude at which the Pacific ocean would be reached would make such

a line bad for our trade, and quite out of the question for the chief

portion of the American "transit."

It appears, therefore, that there are insuperable objections to all

these canal routes, unless it be to some route passing through the

Lake of Nicaragua. By reference to a map of Central America it will

be seen that the waters of this lake, joined to those of the San Juan

river, comprise the breadth of nearly the whole isthmus, leaving a

distance not exceeding twenty miles to be conquered by a canal. At

first sight this appears to be very enticing, and M. Belly has been

enticed. He has been enticed, or at any rate writes as though this

were the case; anything worded more eloquently, energetically, and

grandiloquently, than his pamphlet in favour of this route I have not

met, even among French pamphlets.

M. Felix Belly describes himself as a "publiciste," and chevalier of

the order of Saint Maurice and Lazarus, and of the order of Medjidie.

As such he has made a convention with Don Thomas Martinez, President

of the republic of Nicaragua, and with Don Juan Rafael Mora,

President of the republic of Costa Rica, in accordance with which he,

Chevalier Belly, is to cut a canal or water-route for ships through

the territories of those potentates, obtaining thereby certain

vast privileges, including the possession of no small portion of

those territories, and the right of levying all manner of tolls on

the world's commerce which is to pass through his canal. And the

potentates above named are in return to receive from M. Belly very

considerable subsidies out of these tolls. They bind themselves,

moreover, to permit no other traffic or transit through their

country, securing to M. Belly for ninety-nine years the monopoly

of the job; and granting to him the great diplomatic privilege of

constituting his canal, let it be here or there, the boundary of the

realms of these two potentates.

What strikes me with the greatest wonder on reading--not the

pamphlet, for that is perhaps more wonderful in other respects--but

the articles of the convention, is, that these three persons, the

potentates aforesaid and the chevalier, should have among them the

power of doing all this; or that they should even have had the power

of agreeing to do all this; for really up to this period one seems

hardly to have heard in England much about any one of them.

That there should be presidents of these two republics is supposed,

as there are also, doubtless, of San Salvador and Venezuela, and

all the other western republics; but it is to be presumed that as

presidents of republics they can have themselves no more power to

give away a ninety-nine years' possession of their lands and waters

than can any other citizen. Mr. Buchanan could hardly sell to any

Englishman, however enterprising, the right of making a railway from

New York to San Francisco. The convention does certainly bear two

other signatures, which purport to be those of the ministers of

foreign affairs attached to those two republics; but even this hardly

seems to give us a sufficient guarantee of power. What if we should

put our money into the canal, and future presidents should refuse to

be bound by the agreement?

But M. Belly's name stands on his side alone. No foreign minister or

aide-de-camp is necessary to back his signature. The two potentates

having agreed to give the country, he will agree to make the

canal--he, M. Belly, Publiciste and Chevalier. It is to cost

altogether, according to his account, 120,000,000 francs--say,

four million eight hundred thousand pounds sterling. Of a company,

chairman, and directors we hear nothing. We cannot find that the

shares are in the market. Probably they may be too valuable. On our

own Stock Exchange the matter does not seem to be much known, nor do

we perceive that it is quoted among French prices. Nevertheless, M.

Belly has the four million eight hundred thousand pounds already in

his breeches-pockets, and he will make the canal. I wonder whether he

would drain London for us if we were to ask him.

But wonderful as is the fact that these three gentlemen should be

about to accomplish this magnificent undertaking for the world, the

eloquence of the language in which the undertaking is described is

perhaps more wonderful still.

"On the first of May, 1858, at Rivas, in Nicaragua, in the midst of a

concourse of circumstances full of grandeur, a convention was signed

which opens to civilization a new view and unlimited horizons. The

hour has come for commencing with resolution this enterprise of

cutting the Isthmus of Panama. ... The solution of the problem

must be no longer retarded. It belongs to an epoch which has given

to itself the mission of pulling down barriers and suppressing

distances. It must be regarded, not as a private speculation, but as

a creation of public interest--not as the work of this people or that

party, but as springing from civilization itself." Then M. Belly goes

on to say that this project, emanating from a man sympathetic with

the cause and a witness of the heroism of Central America, namely

himself, possesses advantages--which of course could not attach to

any scheme devised by a less godlike being.

It may be seen that I have no great belief in the scheme of M. Belly;

neither have I in many other schemes of the present day emanating

from Englishmen, Americans, and others. But it is not that disbelief,

but my admiration for French eloquence which urges me to make the

above translation. Alas! I feel that I have lost so much of the

Gallic fragrance! The Parisian aroma has escaped from the poor

English words!

Is not this peculiar eloquence used in propagating all French

projects for increased civilization? From the invention of a new

constitution to that of a new shirt is it even wanting? We, with our

stupid, unimaginative platitudes, know no better than to write up

"Eureka" when we think we have discovered anything; but a Frenchman

tells his countrymen that they need no longer be mortals; a new era

has come; let them wear his slippers and they will walk as gods

walk. How many new eras have there not been? Who is not sick of the

grandiloquence of French progress? "Now--now we have taken the one

great step. The dove at length may nestle with the kite, the lamb

drink with the wolf. Men may share their goods, certain that others

will share with them. Labour and wages, work and its reward, shall

be systematized. Now we have done it, and the world shall be happy."

Well; perhaps the French world is happy. It may be that the liberty

which they have propagated, the equality which they enjoy, and the

fraternity which they practise, is fit for them!

But when has truly mighty work been heralded by magniloquence? Did

we have any grand words from old George Stephenson, with his "vera

awkward for the cou"? Was there aught of the eloquent sententiousness

of a French marshal about the lines of Torres Vedras? Was Luther apt

to speak with great phraseology? If words ever convey to my ears a

positive contradiction of the assertion which they affect to make, it

is when they are grandly antithetical and magnificently verbose. If,

in addition to this, they promise to mankind "new epochs, new views,

and unlimited horizons," surely no further proof can be needed that

they are vain, empty, and untrue.

But the language in which this proposal for a canal is couched is

hardly worth so much consideration--would be worth no consideration

at all, did it not come before us now as an emblem of that which

at this present time is the most pernicious point in the French

character; a false boasting of truth and honesty, with little or no

relish for true truth and true honesty.

The present question is whether M. Belly's canal scheme be feasible;

and, if feasible, whether he has or can attain the means of carrying

it out.

In the first place, it has already come to pass that the convention

signed with such unlimited horizons has proved to be powerless. It is

an undoubted fact that it was agreed to by the two presidents; and as

far as one of them is concerned, it is, I fear, a fact also that for

the present he has sufficient power in his own territory to bind his

countrymen, at any rate for a time, by his unsupported signature. Don

Juan Rafael Mora, in Costa Rica, need care for no congress. If he

were called dictator instead of president, the change would only

be in the word. But this is not exactly so in Nicaragua. There, it

seems, the congress has refused to ratify the treaty as originally

made. But they have, I believe, ratified another, in which M. Belly's

undertaking to make the canal is the same as before, but from which

the enormous grant of land, and the stipulations as to the boundary

line of the territories are excluded.

In M. Belly's pamphlet he publishes a letter which he has received

from Lord Malmesbury, as Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs--or

rather a French translation of such a letter. It is this letter which

appears to have given in Central America the strongest guarantee

that something is truly intended by M. Belly's project. Both in the

pamphlet, and in the convention itself, repeated reference is made

to the French government; but no document is given, nor even is any

positive assertion made, that the government of the emperor in any

way recognizes the scheme. But if this letter be true, and truly

translated, Lord Malmesbury has done so to a certain extent. "And

I am happy," says the letter, "to be able to assure you that the

stipulations of the treaty made between Great Britain and the United

States, commonly called the Clayton-Bulwer Treaty, are in my opinion

applicable to your project, if you put it in execution."* And then

this letter, written to a private gentleman holding no official

position, is signed by the Secretary of State himself. M. Belly holds

no official position, but he is addressed in his translation of Lord

Malmesbury's letter as "Concessionnaire du Canal de Nicaragua."

[*See note to page 29, 12th edition. I have not happened

to meet with any earlier edition of the work.]

Such a letter from such a quarter has certainly been very useful to

M. Belly. In the minds of the presidents of the republics of Central

America it must have gone far to prove that England at any rate

regards M. Belly as no adventurer. There are many of the clauses

of the convention to which I should have imagined that the English

Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs would not have given an

assent, although he might not be called on to express dissent. In

the 26th Article it is stipulated that during the making of the

canal--which if it were to be made at all would be protracted over

many years--two French ships of war should lie in the Lake of

Nicaragua; it having been stipulated by Art. 24 that no other

ships of war should be admitted; thus giving to France a military

occupation of the country. And by Art. 28 it is agreed that any

political squabble relative to this convention should be referred to

a tribunal of seven; two to be named by the company, and one each by

France, England, the United States, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. It is,

I imagine, hardly probable that the English government would send one

member to such a tribunal, in which France would have three voices to

her one, two of which voices would be wholly irresponsible.

Of course the letter does not bind Lord Malmesbury or any secretary

for foreign affairs to the different articles of the convention;

but if it be a genuine letter, I cannot but think it to have been

imprudent.*

[*M. Belly speaks of his convention as having been adopted

by France, England, and the United States. "Adopted, as it

already is, by the United States, by England, and by France,

and as it soon will be by the contracting Powers of the

Treaty of Paris, it will become"--the saviour of the world,

&c. &c. What basis there is for this statement, as regards

France and the United States, I do not know. As regards

England, I presume Lord Malmesbury's letter affords that

basis.]

The assistance of Lord Malmesbury has been obtained by the easy

progress of addressing a letter to him. But to seduce the presidents

of Central America a greater effort has been made. They are told

that they are the wisest of the earth's potentates. "Carrera, of

Guatemala, though an Indian and uneducated, is a man of natural

genius, and has governed for fifteen years with a wisdom which has

attracted to him the unanimous adherence of his colleagues." "Don

Juan Mora, of Costa Rica, the hero of Rivas, has not had to spill

a drop of blood in maintaining in his cities an order much more

perfect than any to be found in Europe. He is a man, 'hors de ligne,'

altogether out of the common; and although he counts scarcely forty

years, but few political examples of old Europe can be compared to

him." And as for General Martinez, President of Nicaragua, "since he

has arrived at the direction of affairs there, he would have healed

all the wounds of the country--had not the fatal influence of

North American spirit paralyzed all his efforts." What wonder that

Presidents so spoken of should sign away their lands and waters?

But presuming all political obstacles to be removed, and that as

regards the possession of the land, and the right of making a

canal through it, everything had been conceded, there remain two

considerable difficulties. In the first place, the nature of the

waters and land, which seems to prohibit the cutting of a canal,

except at an expense much more enormous than any that has been ever

named; and secondly, the amount of money to be collected, even if M.

Belly's figures be correct. He states that he can complete the work

for four million eight hundred thousand pounds. From whence is that

sum to be procured?

As regards the first difficulty, I, from my own knowledge, can

say nothing, not being an engineer, and having seen only a small

portion of the projected route. I must therefore refer to M. Belly's

engineer, and those who hold views differing from M. Belly. M.

Belly's engineer-in-chief is M. Thomé de Gamond, who, in the pamphlet

above alluded to, puts forward his calculations, and sends in his

demand for the work at four million eight hundred thousand pounds.

The route is by the river San Juan, a portion of which is so shallow

that canoes in their course are frequently grounded when the waters

are low, and other parts of which consist of rapids. It then goes

through the lake, a channel through which must be dredged or cleared

with gunpowder before it can carry deep-sea ships, and then out to

the Pacific by a canal which must be cut through the mountains.

There is nothing in the mere sound of all this to make a man, who is

ignorant on the subject as I and most men are, feel that the work

could not be done for the sum named. But before investing cash in the

plan, one would like to be sure of the engineer, and to know that he

has made his surveys very accurately.

Now it appears that M. Thomé de Gamond has never set foot in Central

America; or, if he has done so now--and I do not know whether he has

or has not--he never had done so when he drew out his project. Nor,

as it would appear, has he even done his work, trusting to the eyes

and hands of others. As far as one can learn, no surveys whatsoever

have been taken for this gigantic scheme.

The engineer tells us that he has used marine charts and

hydrographical drawings made by officers of various nations, which

enable him to regard his own knowledge as sufficiently exact as far

as shores and levels of the rivers, &c., are concerned; and that

with reference to the track of his canal, he has taken into his

service--"utilisé"--the works of various surveying engineers, among

them Colonel Child, the American. They, to be sure, do leave him at

a loss as to the interior plateau of the Mosquito country, and some

regions to the east and south of the lake--the canal must enter the

lake by the south-east;--but this is a matter of no moment, seeing

that all these countries are covered by virgin forests, and can

therefore easily be arranged! Gentlemen capitalists, will you on this

showing take shares in the concern?

The best real survey executed with reference to any kindred project

was that made by Colonel Child, an officer of engineers belonging

to the United States. I believe I may say this without hesitation;

and it is to Colonel Child's survey that M. Belly most frequently

refers. But the facts, as stated by Colonel Child, prove the absolute

absurdity of M. Belly's plan. He was employed in 1851 by an American

company, which, as it went to the considerable expense of having such

work absolutely done, was no doubt in earnest in its intentions with

reference to a canal. Colonel Child did not actually report against

the canal. He explained what could be done for a certain sum of

money, leaving it to others to decide whether, in effecting so much,

that sum of money would be well laid out. He showed that a canal

seventeen feet deep might be made--taking the course of the San

Juan and that of the lake, as suggested by M. Belly--for a sum of

thirty-one millions of dollars, or six million two hundred thousand

pounds.

But when the matter came to be considered by men versed in such

concerns, it was seen that a canal with a depth of only seventeen

feet of water would not admit of such vessels as those by which alone

such a canal could be beneficially used. Passengers, treasure, and

light goods can easily be transhipped and carried across by railway.

The canal, if made at all, must be made for the passage of large

vessels built for heavy goods. For such vessels a canal must hold not

less than twenty-five feet of water. It was calculated that a cutting

of such depth would cost much more than double the sum needed for

that intended to contain seventeen feet--more, that is, than twelve

million four hundred thousand pounds. The matter was then abandoned,

on the conviction that no ship canal made at such a cost could by

any probability become remunerative. In point of time it could never

compete with the railway. Colonel Child had calculated that a delay

of two days would take place in the locks; and even as regards heavy

goods, no extreme freight could be levied, as saving of expense with

them would be of much greater object than saving of time.

That this decision was reached on good grounds, and that the project,

then, at any rate, was made bonâ fide there can, I believe, be no

doubt. In opposition to such a decision, made on such grounds, and

with no encouragement but that given by the calculations of an

engineer who has himself made no surveys, I cannot think it likely

that this new plan will ever be carried out The eloquence even of M.

Belly, backed by such arguments, will hardly collect four million

eight hundred thousand pounds; and even if it did, the prudence of M,

Belly would hardly throw such an amount of treasure into the San Juan

river.

As I have before said, there appears to have been no company formed.

M. Belly is the director, and he has a bureau of direction in the Rue

de Provence. But though deficient as regards chairmen, directors,

and shareholders, he is magnificently provided with high-sounding

officials. Then again there comes a blank. Though the corps of

officers was complete when I was in Costa Rica, at any rate as

regards their names, the workmen had not arrived; not even the

skilled labourers who were to come in detachments of forty-five

by each mail packet. The mail packets came, but not the skilled

labourers.

Shortly before my arrival at San José, there appeared in the

journal published in that town a list of officers to be employed

by M. Felix Belly, the Director-General "De la Compañie Del Canal

Atlantico-Pacifico." The first of these is Don Andres Le Vasseur,

Minister Plenipotentiary, Veteran Officer of the Guard Imperial,

Commander of the Legion of Honour, and Knight of the Order of St.

Gregory. He is Secretary-General of the Direction. Then there are

other secretaries. In the first place, Prince Polignac, Veteran

Officer of the Cavalry of the Cazadores in Africa, &c. He at any rate

is a fact! for did I not meet him and the O'Gorman Mahon--Nicodemus

and Polyphemus--not "standing naked in the open air," but drinking

brandy and water at the little inn at Esparza? "Arcades ambo!" The

next secretary is Don Henrique Le Vasseur. He is Dibujador fotografo,

which I take to mean photographical artist; and then Don Andres

L'Heritier; he is the private secretary.

We next come to the engineers. With reference to geology and

mineralogy, M. Belly has employed Don José Durocher, whose titles,

taken from the faculty of science at Rennes, the Legion of Honour,

&c., are too long to quote. Don Eugénio Ponsard, who also is not

without his titles, is the working engineer on these subjects. And

then joined to them as adjutant-engineer is Don Henrique Peudifer,

whose name is also honoured with various adjuncts.

The engineers who are to be intrusted with the surveys and works of

the canals are named next. There are four such, to whom are joined

five conductors of the works and eight special masters of the men.

All these composed an expedition which left Southampton on the 17th

of February, 1859,--or which should so have left it, had they acted

up to M. Belly's promises.

Then by the packet of the 2nd of March, 1859, there came--or at least

there should have come, for we are told that they sailed--another

expedition. I cannot afford to give all the names, but they are

full-sounding and very honourable. Among them there was a maker of

bricks, who in his own country had been a chief of the works in the

imperial manufactory of porcelain at Sèvres. Having enticed him from

so high a position, it is to be hoped that M. Belly will treat him

well in Central America. There are, or were, hydrographical engineers

and agricultural engineers, master carpenters, and masters of various

other specialties.

I fear all these gentlemen came to grief on the road, for I think

I may say that no such learned troops came through with the mail

packets which left Southampton on the days indicated.

Then by the following steamers there would, it is stated, be

despatched in succession an inspector of telegraphs, an engineer for

making gas, an engineer to be charged with the fabrication of the

iron way, an agriculturist-in-chief, a scientific commission for

geology, mineralogy, meteorology, and natural history in general. And

attached to all the engineers will come--or now long since should

have come--the conductors of works and special masters of men, who

are joined with them in their operations. These are to consist

principally of veteran soldiers of the Engineers and the Artillery.

These gentlemen also must, I fear, have been cast away between

Southampton and St. Thomas, if they left the former port by either

of the two mail steamers following those two specially indicated. I

think I may say positively that no such parties were forwarded from

St. Thomas.

The general inspection of the works will be intrusted ultimately to

a French and to an English engineer. The Frenchman will of course be

M. Thomé de Gamond. The Englishman is to be "Mr. Locke, Member of

Parliament." If, indeed, this latter assertion were true! But I think

I may take upon myself to say that it is untrue.

All the above certainly sounds very grand, especially when given at

full length in the Spanish language. Out there, in Central America,

the list is effective. Here, in England, we should like to see the

list of the directors as well, and to have some idea how much money

has been subscribed. Mankind perhaps can trust M. Belly for much, but

not for everything.

In the month of May Don Juan Rafael Mora, the President of Costa

Rica, left his dominions and proceeded to Rivas, in Nicaragua, to

assist at the inauguration of the opening of the works of the canal.

When I and my companion met him at Esparza, accompanied by Nicodemus

and Polyphemus, he was making this journey. M. Belly has already

described in eloquent language how on a previous occasion this

potentate condescended to leave his own kingdom and visit that of

a neighbour; thus sacrificing individual rank for the benefit of

humanity and civilization. He was willing to do this even once again.

Having borrowed a French man-of-war to carry him from Punta-arenas,

in his own territories, to St. Juan del Sur, in the territory of

Nicaragua, he started with his suite, of whom the Prince and the

O'Gorman were such distinguished members. But, lo! when he arrived

at Rivas, a few miles up from San Juan del Sur--at Rivas, where with

gala holiday triumph the canal was to be inaugurated--the canal from

whence were to come new views and unlimited horizons--lo! when he

there arrived, no brother-president was there to meet him, no M.

Belly, attended by engineers-in-chief and brickmakers from Sèvres,

to do him honour. There was not even one French pupil from the

Polytechnic School to turn a sod with a silver spade. In lieu of

this, some custom-house officer of Nicaragua called upon poor Don

Juan to pay the usual duty on bringing his portmanteau into Rivas.

Other new views, and other unlimited horizons had, it seems, been

dawning on M. Belly.

One of the first words of which a man has to learn the meaning on

reaching these countries is "transit." Central America can only be

great in the world--as Egypt can be only great--by being a passage

between other parts of the world which are in themselves great. We

Englishmen all know Crewe; Crewe has become a town of considerable

importance, as being a great railway junction. Men must reach Crewe

and leave Crewe continually, and the concourse there has rendered

labour necessary; labourers of all sorts must live in houses, and

require bakers and grocers to supply them. So Crewe has grown up

and grown important; and so will Central America become important.

Aspinwall--Colon, as we call it--has become a town in this way within

the last ten years.

"Transit" in these parts means the trade of carrying people across

Central America; and a deal of "transit" has been done and money made

by carrying people across Nicaragua by way of the great lake. This

has hitherto been effected by shallow-bottomed boats. I will say one

word or so on the subject when I have done, as I very soon shall have

done, with M. Belly.

Now it is very generally thought that M. Belly when he speaks of this

canal means "transit." There can be no question but that a great

carrying trade might be opened, much to the advantage of Nicaragua,

and to the advantage of Costa Rica also though not to the same

extent. If all this canal grandiloquence would pave the way to

"transit," might it not be well? What if another agreement could be

made, giving to M. Belly and his company the sole right of "transit"

through Nicaragua, till the grand canal should be completed--a very

long lease; might not something be done in this way? But Don Juan

Mora there, Don Juan of Costa Rica, that man altogether "hors de

ligne," grand as he is, need know nothing about this. Let him,

left quite in darkness as to this new view, these altered unlimited

horizons, go to Rivas if he will, and pay his custom dues.

It may be that I have written at too great length, and with an energy

disproportionate to the subject, on this matter of the Nicaraguan

canal scheme. I do not know that the English public generally, or at

any rate that portion of it which may perhaps read my book, is very

deeply interested in the subject. We hear now and then something of

the Clayton-Bulwer treaty, and a word or two is said about the Panama

route to Australia, but the subject is not generally interesting to

us, as is that of the passage through Egypt. We can reach Australia

by another and a shorter route; and as for Vancouver's Island and

Frazer River, they as yet are very young.

But the matter will become of importance. And to a man in Central

America, let his visit to that country be ever so short, it becomes

at once important. To me it was grievous to find a work so necessary

to the world as this of opening a way over the isthmus, tampered

with, and to a degree hindered by a scheme which I cannot but regard

as unreal. But unreal as it may be, this project has reached

dimensions which make it in some way worthy of notice. A French ship

of war was sent to take the President Mora and his suite on their

unfortunate journey to Rivas; and an English ship of war was sent to

bring them back. The extension of such privileges to the president of

a republic in Central America may be very well; but men, seeing on

what business this president was travelling, not unnaturally regarded

the courtesy as an acknowledgment of the importance of M. Belly's

work.

I do not wish to use hard names, but I cannot think that the project

of which I have been speaking covers any true intention of making

a canal. And such schemes, if not real, if not true in the outward

bearings which they show to the world, go far to deter others which

might be real. And now I will say nothing further about M. Belly.

As I have before stated, there was some few years since a

considerable passenger traffic through Central America by the route

of the Lake of Nicaragua. This of course was in the hands of the

Americans, and the passengers were chiefly those going and coming

between the Eastern States and California. They came down to

Greytown, at the mouth of the San Juan river, in steamers from New

York, and I believe from various American ports, went up the San Juan

river in other steamers with flat bottoms prepared for those waters,

across the lake in the same way, and then by a good road over the

intervening neck of land between the lake and the Pacific.

Of course the Panama railway has done much to interfere with this. In

the first place, a rival route has thus been opened; though I doubt

whether it would be a quicker route from New York to California

if the way by the Lake were well organized. And then the company

possessing the line of steamers running to Aspinwall from New York

has been able to buy off the line which would otherwise run to

Greytown.

But this rivalship has not been the main cause of the total stoppage

of the Nicaraguan route. The filibusters came into that land and

destroyed everything. They dropped down from California on Realejo,

Leon, Manaqua, Granada, and all the western coast of Nicaragua.

Then others came from the South-Eastern States, from Mobile and New

Orleans, and swarmed up the San Juan river, devouring everything

before them. There can be no doubt that Walker's idea, in his attempt

to possess himself of this country, was that he could thus become

master of the passage across the isthmus. He saw, as so many others

have seen, the importance of the locality in this point of view; and

he probably felt that if he could make himself lord of the soil by

his own exertions, and on his own bottom, his mother country, the

United States, would not be slow to recognize him. "I," he would have

said, "have procured for you the ownership of the road which is so

desirable for you. Pay me, by making me your lieutenant here, and

protecting me in that position."

The idea was not badly planned, but it was of course radically

unjust. It was a contemplated filching of the road. And Walker found,

as all men do find, that he could not easily get good tools to do

bad work. He tried the job with a very rough lot of tools; and now,

though he has done much harm to others, he has done very little good

to himself. I do not think that we shall hear much more of him.

And among the worst of the injuries which he has done is this

disturbance of the Lake traffic. This route has been altogether

abandoned. There, in the San Juan river, is to be seen one old

steamer with its bottom upwards, a relic of the filibusters and their

destruction. All along the banks tales are told of their injustice

and sufferings. How recklessly they robbed on their journey up the

country, and how they returned back to Greytown--those who did

return, whose bones are not whitening the Lake shores--wounded,

maimed, and miserable.

Along the route traders were beginning to establish themselves, men

prepared to provide the travellers with food and drink, and the boats

with fuel for their steam. An end for the present has been put to all

this. The weak governments of the country have been able to afford

no protection to these men, and placed as they were, beyond the

protection of England or the United States, they have been completely

open to attack. The filibusters for a while have destroyed the

transit through Nicaragua; and it is hardly matter of surprise that

the presidents of that and the neighbouring republics should catch

at any scheme which proposes to give them back this advantage,

especially when promise is made of the additional advantage of

effectual protection.

It is much to be desired, on all accounts, that this route should

be again opened. Here, I think, is to be found the best chance of

establishing an immediate competition with the Panama railway. For

although such a route will not offer the comfort of the Panama

line, or, till it be well organized, the same rapidity, it would

nevertheless draw to it a great portion of the traffic, and men and

women going in numbers would be carried at cheaper rates; and these

cheaper rates in Nicaragua would probably at once lessen the fares

now charged by the Panama railway. Competition would certainly be

advantageous, and for the present I see no other opening for a

competitive route.

A railway along the banks of the San Juan would, I fear, be too

expensive. The distance is above one hundred and fifty miles, and

the line would be very costly. But a line of rails from the Lake to

the Pacific might be made comparatively at a small outlay, and would

greatly add to the comfort and rapidity of the passage.

To us Englishmen it is a matter of indifference in whose hands the

transit may be, so long as it is free, and open to all the world;

so long as a difference of nationality creates no difference in the

fares charged or in the facilities afforded. For our own purposes,

I have no doubt the Panama line is the best, and will be the route we

shall use. But we should be delighted to see a second line opened. If

Mr. Squier can accomplish his line through Honduras, we will give him

great honour, and acknowledge that he has done the world a service.

In the mean time, we shall be very happy to see the Lake transit

re-established.

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